heya. i've got 3 questions, hope some1 could help.
i recently upgraded my p3300 to WM6 (official HTC rom) and as i was at it, started to wonder about a few things.
1) in tomtom, when configuring the GPS, i can change the baudspeed (actually at 4800). if i increase that, would a) the GPS navigation while driving be smoother, b) i get a faster satelite fix and most important: c) would the battery last less or same?
2) about the battery... i use very few apps and most of the times i make sure they are 100% closed. i use the calendar, notes and few phonecalls per day. sometimes i turn on tomtom for a few minutes to find a street when walking... but i think the battery life is very short (an average of 1% per hour in standby, more battery loss when using the pda, making calls, etc)
is there any tweaks, programs or whatsoever to see what exactly is consuming XYZ of my battery? and improve it's life?
3) after upgrading to WM6, whenever i start tomtom, i get that logo-splash screen (didnt get that before) is there a way to remove it?
i have many more doubts, but i think i'll leave em for when i solved this things. thx for answer.
zandadoum said:
1) in tomtom, when configuring the GPS, i can change the baudspeed (actually at 4800). if i increase that, would a) the GPS navigation while driving be smoother, b) i get a faster satelite fix and most important: c) would the battery last less or same?
2) about the battery... i use very few apps and most of the times i make sure they are 100% closed. i use the calendar, notes and few phonecalls per day. sometimes i turn on tomtom for a few minutes to find a street when walking... but i think the battery life is very short (an average of 1% per hour in standby, more battery loss when using the pda, making calls, etc)
is there any tweaks, programs or whatsoever to see what exactly is consuming XYZ of my battery? and improve it's life?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
1) I didn't noticed differences neither in fix time nor in navigation smoothness.
2) I doubt that it is possible to measure power used by certain application directly. I had problem with power drain and resolved it by switching applications off and on (S2U was guilty), but it seems to me that my Artemis use more power after upgrade to WM6 to.
any1 got any more comments? which is the best way to track your battery life and improve it? any program around to help on this task?
If you want to compare your device power consumption to my Artemis I'll give you some measurements (not very accurate actually):
When I tested my device while playing 320x240 divx movie with TCPMP, fullscreen, brightness set to max, no audio - battery operated about 5,5 - 6 hours before PDA powered off automatically.
During 8 hours in stand-by (I didn't used PDA at all) it was about 5-8% battery drained, but when I switched Pocket Plus indicators (memory, battery, SD free space) off - after 8 hours of stand-by there was 100% battery (full).
Hope this will help you. If you do your own measures let us know.
Good Sunday
ok, as far as i have seen, there is no application that tells your how much battery each application you run, uses. i guess thats normal.
but, is there something like the windows taskmanager, telling you how much CPU and MEMORY each application that runs in the background uses? i think if there is one, that would give a good start on my investigations.
zandadoum said:
but, is there something like the windows taskmanager, telling you how much CPU and MEMORY each application that runs in the background uses? i think if there is one, that would give a good start on my investigations.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You could try BatteryStatus
varvocel said:
You could try BatteryStatus
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i'll try it, however i've read somewhere that this program itself is a battery-drainer already?
With BS I had 100% battery after 8 hours standby and I didn't noticed more power consumption while normal use (some phone calls, PIM, games, Internet), but you must try to know how it works on your device. Try it and then write about your findings.
Hi,
baudrate has noting to do with refreshing inverval of GPS. The refresh wrt the satellites is determined in the chipset, and the baudrate is the speed in which the chipset (which is actually an external device) communicates with the serial port of the device. Normally speaking the baudrate for gps is 4800 (it is NMEA norm), but also other rates exist for example for bluetooth devices the baudrate is only the speed with which the serial transfer of data is done. It is in the end the GPS software you use that will determine how fast your position is updated on your screen. It can happen that if you set the baudrate wrong, that the data is not received properly, because the software expects the data to be presented at the baudrate you set, and the device delivers at a different rate (like speeking too fast to somebody). It is therefore important to set it correctly.
zandadoum said:
but, is there something like the windows taskmanager, telling you how much CPU and MEMORY each application that runs in the background uses? i think if there is one, that would give a good start on my investigations.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You could try TaskManager 2.7 from FdcSoft. It shows CPU load en memory load.
Just add the .exe to the sd card and run the file. Use the tabs to selct Process / CPU or any of the other tabs.
gertaap said:
Hi,
baudrate has noting to do with refreshing inverval of GPS. The refresh wrt the satellites is determined in the chipset, and the baudrate is the speed in which the chipset (which is actually an external device) communicates with the serial port of the device. Normally speaking the baudrate for gps is 4800 (it is NMEA norm), but also other rates exist for example for bluetooth devices the baudrate is only the speed with which the serial transfer of data is done. It is in the end the GPS software you use that will determine how fast your position is updated on your screen. It can happen that if you set the baudrate wrong, that the data is not received properly, because the software expects the data to be presented at the baudrate you set, and the device delivers at a different rate (like speeking too fast to somebody). It is therefore important to set it correctly.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
thanks for the explanation.
going back to batterystatus, i am tetsing it now. specially the overclock tool to actually UNDERclock my phone, hoping the battery lasts longer.
however, as for what i've seen, when the phone goes into suspend, batterystatus sets back to the 201mhz until it is unsuspended. so that's actually useless.
but it tells me enough info to get an idea about my power consumption, etc.
zandadoum said:
however, as for what i've seen, when the phone goes into suspend, batterystatus sets back to the 201mhz until it is unsuspended. so that's actually useless.
but it tells me enough info to get an idea about my power consumption, etc.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not exactly useless - if you read e-book or WWW pages your PDA can save power with BS (although I don't know exactly how much).
About underclocking in standby there is explanation from BS Howto:
Could you make the cpu clock down while it is in standby?
There is no need to. Most of the devices are doing this by themself. As soon as you push the power-button (explicitly not a program mapped to a custom button for this job), your device will gradually stop execution of code and clocks the cpu down.
The latter implies that as soon as you push the power-button, BatteryStatus and any overclocking by BatteryStatus stops working.
Some tests showed that your device automatically steps down to 52MHz and maybe there is a state while the cpu is completely stopped (0 MHz) too.
I'm curious what is CPU speed of Artemis in standby. Maybe somebody knows that and will share with us?
Related
Upgraded from Nav3 to 5 which is working great except that the PDA will not power off automatically with Nav5 running. Also even if I manually switch the PDA off the battery consumption is very high (runs flat overnight). I'm not using bluetooth or WLAN and they are definately off. I don't have any other app's running.
Anyone else have this problem or suggest a workaround?
If I Stop the Nav5 application then power functions as normal but being forgettful it's hard to remember to do this every time!
Of course Tomtom support have been as useless as ever!!
It maybe dumb to suggest, but....
...do you 'Exit Application' when you've finished using TTN5?
If you don't, it will keep polling the Serial Port for your GPS reciever, and thus the handset won't fully 'stand-by' as serial activity will drain power.
I use TTN5, and as long as I exit, I have still got around 2 days out of a battery, with 'careful' usage.
No offence intended at all in this post - just perhaps highlighting the obvious!
R.
You are correct that exiting (ie Stopping) the application resolves the battery drain but I was using TTN3 previously with a serial receiver and that happily shut down when the PDA was off and did not need stopping.
Also with TTN5 running it stops the PDA switching off automatically, I have to switch off with the power switch.
I have an XDA II and M2000. i have the battery drain problem on both. i exit the app like i am supposed to, but when i start the device in the morning it has completely run flat! in the task manager there is nothing running when i put the device in standby...
any further thoughts?
i am using tomtom v5.21 and the latest roms.
Maybe do a scriptlike "shotdown all" before it goes into it's nightsleep
But i don't see a problem in shutting down TTN5 if you don't use it...
I don't even see a problem in switching off the Radio if i'm not listening etc. No pun intended, but if a programm keeps running it's pretty likely it drains the battery. You're just lucky if it doen't...
See attached pdf for details.
Thanks for all the effort, I've been meaning to do something like this myself. It'd be great if we could come up with some sort of standard/script/tool/program to automate it all so new ROMS could be easily tested.
Anyways, very useful and appreciated. A few questions, what network are you on, what radio do you use, and how did you gauge the power drain? Thanks again. Good work.
Have you by any chance also measured wifi power consumption?
New Results including WIFI/BLUETOOTH and PUSH EMAIL
Please find attached my new power consumption results.
The Radio ROM and OS ROM used are documented within the file itself.
Standard Script Tools
Sorry no Standard script tools were used. I have to wait 5 to 15 minutes per test according to what I need to test using a program called acbPowermeter.
It is quite a difficult task, but I do not think that the ROMS etc... will do much difference.
The main difference is that you would be aware that things like PUSH EMAIL and WIFI will drain the power almost 10 times faster, so you avoid having these on all the time and put an OS or apps on your mobile to turn these on / off when you really need them.
Thank you very much, I found your results helpful and interesting.
Tey encourage me to switch from WiFi to Blootooth when in the office. Seems to be far more efficient.
YouTube consumption
YouTube over HSDPA on our faithful Hermes 100 is a great way to keep the kids quite at the back of your car, but beware it consumes at least 375ma (see attached PDF) and will drain the battery in approx 3 hours.
Has anyone tested how long the battery lasts when using GPS?
PaulusUK said:
Has anyone tested how long the battery lasts when using GPS?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I can't imagine any reason to just run the GPS.. What context? Car navigation? GPS Tracking? What?
The Tilt used about 120mA just for the GPS, I suspect the TP2 would be very close to that.
As a handheld GPS for walking.
I use a program called Memory Map which has terrain maps and plots routes, waypoints etc.
The GPS would need to be on all the time, but the screen could be off and just turned on when I need to glance at the route/map
I used to get just under 2 hours from my Diamond and about 2 1/2 hours from my m700 - so I had to carry some external batteries
PaulusUK said:
As a handheld GPS for walking.
I use a program called Memory Map which has terrain maps and plots routes, waypoints etc.
The GPS would need to be on all the time, but the screen could be off and just turned on when I need to glance at the route/map
I used to get just under 2 hours from my Diamond and about 2 1/2 hours from my m700 - so I had to carry some external batteries
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
For thst sort of usage, I'd honestly suggest getting a bluetooth GPS unit. Does MUCH better under cover (trees, urban 'trees', etc) and takes a huge load off of the device.
I've gone on 3-4 hour hikes using TrackMe, which sounds like a similar program, and was only down 20% on battery. That'd get me WAY more battery life than my legs had in 'em.
Good luck, I'll check out Memory Map. I'm a geogeek, I collect all sorts of GPS related software.
PaulusUK said:
Has anyone tested how long the battery lasts when using GPS?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have a question regarding GPS. Once you've started using GPS, do you have to manually turn it off (like WiFi or BlueTooth) or does it cycle off automatically?
hempel said:
I have a question regarding GPS. Once you've started using GPS, do you have to manually turn it off (like WiFi or BlueTooth) or does it cycle off automatically?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
it will turn off automatically when you exit the program
khaytsus said:
For thst sort of usage, I'd honestly suggest getting a bluetooth GPS unit. Does MUCH better under cover (trees, urban 'trees', etc) and takes a huge load off of the device.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Wouldn't bluetooth communication also drain the power?
Which would be worse - the BT or the GPS working?
TP2 GPS battery usage
My TP2 lasted 2.5 hours using Memory-Map in full mapping mode, where I had to plot map I created on PC.
Tunc
superflyboy said:
Wouldn't bluetooth communication also drain the power?
Which would be worse - the BT or the GPS working?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
erm... Perhaps not you, but I answered this very question somewhere else already.. anyway...
Bluetooth is very low power. And obviously if I'm saying the GPS uses hordes of power and to use a Bluetooth device because of power, the internal GPS is worse (much worse). How much worse? Same workload, same software, BT vs internal GPS on the Kaiser (same GPS as TP2) was a difference of 100mAh. 8.3% more battery drain per hour.
Bluetooth GPS also has other advantages...
Faster fix
More accurate
More sensitive
More options (in terms of which GPS you get and what features IT has)
Disadvantages
One more small thing to carry around
In terms of features, I keep saying I'm going to upgrade my BT GPS to the Columbus V900 (or other like models). It'll act like a normal BT GPS, or self-logger to a memory card, even a 'stealth' mode which logs a point every N minutes which you could effectively let run for a week without running out of battery and years before filling a 1G memory card.. Also you can attach voice notes to a coordinate, or 'mark' a spot with a button push, both of which you could refer to later by viewing the resulting data in Google Earth or other means.
Hy everione ii decided to make a thread about my kaiser android porting state
i currently use sccoters cyanongen mod 6 with sys and data on nand im using his kernle just changed the panel type from 2 to 3 and now i have no more screen issues
The speed is preety good for an 2007 phone
The apps that i mainly use
Advanced task killer - a very helpful program when you have only 30 mb of ram
Astro-the best file manager my opinion
IM+ pro-a messenger ap
Shazam- a music recognition software
Thinkfree Office- a very slow office like app
Tunee Music pro- a music lybrary from where you can download free music
and offcourse xda app
Now i tryed fruity ninja but it runned pretty slow and everyone know the ,,awsome,, touch screen of these devices
Anyway curently i experienced some big issues
The wireles connection is somehow dropping i mean it dosent dissconect but the apps just lose it soethimes
My 1st issue the battery i cant chcarge the phone correctly i and it last only 7 hours
I tryed shuting it down and charge it but it restart itself
I really need to resolve the charging thing because its my prymari phone and i dont have other
I`m searching for faster experience and an working chargin tehnic )
Please excuse my english
Hi Cos:
Patience is all you need with the battery issue. If the kernel was written correctly for the phone, then the battery level will pick up and adjust. Any time I do a fresh install I have to wait for the phone to almost die before charging because battery level is always at 15% after install.
Wait for the phone to be about dead (look at "battery information" under Spare Parts. You will see the battery voltage listed in millivolts (shown as mV). As long as that voltage doesn't drop below 3500mV, you'll be fine. Once it does, charge it from that point on. It "should" pick up on the low and high battery voltages pretty well after this.
High volt reading is around 4150, lowest should be no less than 3500. If the battery never reaches 4150-4200, the battery is bad and should be replaced.
No problem here
My Kaiser "Android powered" last for 2 days - sometimes more.
"atools > Battery Capacity > Advanced Settings > 3200"
A have standard 1350 battery
PS: NAND install and no suden drops in battery level
The problem
I've been using CM10 on a Defy+ for a few days now. I've quickly noticed that I'm not getting exactly stellar battery life. Checking BetterBatteryStats indicated zero deep sleep, and "wifi_wake" as king of the wakelocks.
I realise that it's probably not wifi's fault but rather inconsiderate apps using wakelocks badly, still, something needs to be done.
Who is this for
People who, when their Defy+ has wifi on and connected, get absolutely no deep sleep in BetterBatteryStats, and wifi_wake or similar tops the kernel wakelock chart.
Does this work when wifi is on but not connected to an AP?
No idea. Theoretically, wherever you come near an AP there will be beacons and DTIM's flying around so it might work. But if you're not going to be connected you might as well turn wifi off, either manually or with an app. I can recommend Wi-Fi Matic, it uses a clever trick (uses GSM cell IDs to detect proximity to a known AP).
Possible solution (*ROOT* needed. This was ONLY tested on Defy+ with CM10.)
After some research I came to the configuration files for the TI wifi module, which are located in /system/etc/wifi and called tiwlan.ini and tiwlan_ap.ini. After some digging around and reading the Texas Instruments doc for the module (sprugt8.pdf), I'm prepared to offer a hack:
In tiwlan.ini change DtimListenInterval from 1 to 30.
In tiwlan_ap.ini change BeaconListenInterval from 1 to 10.
Reboot and see if BetterBatteryStats reports better (or any) deep sleep with wifi on and connected.
This combination gives me up to 85% deep sleep. YMMV because you probably don't have the same apps & background services installed as I do, usage patterns etc.
Increasing these values even further is possible (valid range is 1-50) but with only marginal improvements to deep sleep time and increasing issues with wifi (frequent disconnects in the case of weak signal). In other words, the connectivity problems aren't worth the extra 5% of deep sleep. Even so, if you manage to increase them (beacon in particular, I haven't tested large values as thorough as I did DTIM) and still keep wifi stable, please let us know.
Here's my findings for DtimListenInterval (on its own): 10 gives 25-30% deep sleep, 20 gives 42-50%, 30 goes up to 60%. Increasing it any further is pretty much useless, 50 (max) will get you to ~67% but expect heavy disconnects.
For BeaconListenInterval: 10 seems to be an upper limit when Dtim is around 25-30. Going over will cause disconnects even with very strong APs.
I haven't documented BeaconListenInterval on its own very rigurously, OR various combinations of the two, because I got bored of rebooting. Plus the fact I don't know when which of the two ini files will be used, so it's kinda like shooting in the dark. You're welcome to contribute your own findings.
But how do I edit those files?
You need root and any file manager worth its salt that lets you see the system files and edit them.
Is this dangerous?
I have no idea and I take no responsability. It's probably a good idea to make a backup of those files, and, even better, slap the backups into a flashable zip on the root of your sdcard. In case something bad happens you can reboot in recovery and install the good versions back. Example flashable zip and tutorial here. Remember, they go into system/etc/wifi/.
Warning: I used this on CM10 and Defy+
If you attempt it on anything else all bets are off. If the files are not there, you can't find the keywords and so on, you're on your own. Still, you can read the explanations below and try to see if anything helps.
Explanations
tiwlan.ini and tiwlan_ap.ini control the behavior of the wifi module. I have no idea why there's two of them (or more, on some devices), but after poking around I've determined they must all be modified because they are used in different cases. (Different apps? Different circumstances? Different hardware parts? If anybody can enlighten us it would be super.)
These config files are similar, but different in some key aspects. Both my files have dot11PowerMode=0 which means "auto", which means that it looks at AutoPowerModeDozeMode to determine if it uses short (2) or long (3) doze mode for power saving. tiwlan.ini has short mode, tiwlan_ap.ini has long mode. This in turn means they use different listen intervals: short mode (tiwlan.ini) observes BeaconListenInterval, long doze (tiwlan_ap.ini) observes DtimListenInterval. Which is why we modify different properties in each file.
What are beacons and DTIMs? Simply put, beacons are a signal broadcasted by wifi access points periodically to let wifi clients they're there, and DTIMs are packages of special information about the AP. The most typical setup for most wifi APs is to send a beacon every 100ms i.e. 10 times a second, and a DTIM after every beacon, or at most every other beacon.
The default settings of "1" for BeaconListenInterval and DtimListenInterval means that the phone watches for these signals 5-10 times a second and, well, it's no wonder it doesn't get any sleep. Mind you, this does make for superb wifi connectivity, at the expense of battery life.
BTW, you can probably achieve similar effects by tweaking your wifi router to send beacons/DTIMs less often – all the wifi devices around your home will probably thank you. But of course you cannot control wifi APs everywhere you go, and it might backfire! Read below.
So why didn't "they" put better values on these settings?
For exactly the reason in the above paragraph: because you don't know what settings a particular AP you're trying to use has.
Here's an example. Say somebody tweaked their AP and put 10 beacons a second and a DTIM every 10 beacons. This means a DTIM once a second, then you come along and tweak your phone to only wake up the wifi connection every 30 DTIMs. That means 30 seconds, time in which the connection will most likely time out.
You cannot predict this kind of stuff so there's no safe default values other than "1", which mean "react as quickly as possible to any beacons/DTIMs we get because we don't know when we're getting another". My tweak is based on the assumption that the AP emits 10 beacons a second and DTIM with every beacon (beacon interval 100ms and DTIM interval 1). If the AP you use has been tweaked for more relaxed values these ini tweaks may backfire and cause disconnects!
Other potentially relevant ini settings
Here are some more interesting settings which could be further tweaked to get even better results:
PowerMgmtHangOverPeriod
AutoPowerModeActiveTh
AutoPowerModeDozeTh
BeaconReceiveTime
See the TI pdf for details.
That's all folks
Thanks for reading this far. Please contribute if you have insights, if I said stupid things or if you find settings that seem to work better.