ExtUSB 3-in-1 Power/LineOut/LineIn - General Accessories

I'm after an adapter to work with my WinMo device which allows me to connect up my own Mic.
The one that almost fits the bill is this ExtUSB 3-in-1 Adaptor but the problem is with the Mic!
I have my own Mic already wired in and a fair way from where the adapter is going to be located. Ideally, I just need a 3.5mm jack for the Mic to go into, just like the 3.5mm jack for the audio out.
The final result being I have a handsfree solution in the car, connected up through the car stereo speakers and a handsfree mic.
Can anyone see any issues with this setup? Does anyone know where I can obtain such an adapter?

1) I tried that adapter with my Touch PRO and it messed up somehow the audio managment so after plugging it in once - after receiving a call I could speak but the device become totally unresponsive only reset worked until a next call... so I hard reseted device and bought the HTC original one.
2) You might get a ground loop when using audio together with charging. I have had it with different cars, devices (laptops/handhelds). The ground loop will give you loud unwanted digital noise while charging. There are workarounds but might not be easy to reach. Basically you need to get the power from the SAME WIRE as the amplifier does.

I have this exact setup in my car and it does work, no feedback problems. I also have the same problem of microphone placement. I have been unable to find an adaptor or a microphone with a long enough wire to do what I wanted, so I had to modify my microphone placement(put it on the dash as oppossed to my sun visor where I wanted it). Other than that issue, it does work great, sounds great over the stereo(both phone calls and music), and charges up at the same time. If you do find either an adaptor or a stupid mini usb microphone with about a 4 foot wire, let me know.

bsell1 said:
I have this exact setup in my car and it does work, no feedback problems. I also have the same problem of microphone placement. I have been unable to find an adaptor or a microphone with a long enough wire to do what I wanted, so I had to modify my microphone placement(put it on the dash as oppossed to my sun visor where I wanted it). Other than that issue, it does work great, sounds great over the stereo(both phone calls and music), and charges up at the same time. If you do find either an adaptor or a stupid mini usb microphone with about a 4 foot wire, let me know.
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Click to collapse
How about the charging?... Is there any change in the audio when plugging in? Try lowering the vol of device as low as possible and maximize the vol of amp.

not at all. The way I have it set up, it is charging or powered the whole time. Of the 3 inputs on the adaptor, one goes to the aux in on my car stereo, one goes to a car power adaptor I installed under the dash, and the 3rd goes to the microphone. I have bluetooth on, so it works with the gps reciever I have(I have an older model without built in gps) and I programed 1 of the buttons to turn on the gps program. Another button is programed to turn on the audio player(I think it is pocket player), which feeds audio to the car stereo anytime I have the aux button pressed on the car stereo. When a phone call comes in, the song pauses and all I have to do is hit the little green answer button on the phone to use it as a speakerphone. Audio is great. I have all the wires snake into one of those little pockets on the dash so there are not a lot of wires going everywhere. Takes about 5-10 seconds to set it up when I get in the car, and about 3 seconds to disconnect when I leave.

Related

original car kit charging issue

this weekend i took apart my car kit to try resolving the charging issue with the xda11. there is no wiring differences with the xda11, and the problem lies with the original kits charging rate. if u try placing an xda11 in the cradle, switched off, it will charge. however, if u leave the screen active, or use mp3 or gps, the battery will drain. there is no fix for this. when i realised this, i cut the power and negative leads from the loom, and patched in a cheap cigarette charger lead, which is permanently wired in. this works perfect. no wiring mods were nessecary to the loom, just replaced the live and neutral from the black box with live and neutral from the new charger. i can now use mp3 or gps or both, with charging and full sound piped into my stereo head end......exactly the same functionality as the original xda gave. it was well worth the effort
i hope this resolves this issue finally
Does this give you MP3 and Navigation sound over the car speakers?. Thanks. Peter.
to enable sound
the only way, so far , to enable sound is to insert your headphone jack plug into ur xda11, i know this requires cradle modification, but its worth it. All sound then is routed through the bottom connector, exactly the same as the xda1........i have done this, and have the car kit patched into an aux input on my car stereo. i have alos fitted a little microswitch in the mute cable, so that i can disable radio muting if im listenint to mp3, but enable it if im just using the radio, and the phone.
I do recall quite some issues with the original (=like the iMate one as sold by Expansys I assume):
1. Bad mic quality (people think I am talking with a bag over my head)
2. Only in-call sound over bottom-connector/carkit-speaker
3. When the carkit is connected to 12V for about one month, after about 20sec in a call the carkit speaker mutes (I currently have this. Workaround to resolve: disconnect the carkit for some seconds from 12V, permanent solving is via warranty repair I guess)
But I havent heard (nor experienced) about this charging issue.
I have fitted my carkit on direct / permanent 12V wires (yes I used an extra fuse there) and do not have any charging issue whatsoever. When in the carkit, the Himalaya is charged.
In the car I use the Himalaya permanently with TomTom 3 and a BT GPS. It always charges (for real! device is full again after some driving)
Also, can you give some more explanation on the headphone-trick to get all audio via the bottom-connector: Does it need to be wired. If no: any round plastic piece with diameter of 2.5mm would do then (because apparently it only needs to trigger the headset switch inside the jack socket).

HTCext to 3.5mm audio adapter mic problem

Hi!
I have this for some time: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=470938811&pf_rd_i=507846
(Actually, I baught it in a store so I'm not sure it's excatly the same but it looks the same)
Recently, I baught this one:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Headphone-HTC-VIVA-exclusive-Duragadget/dp/B001LIM8F0/ref=pd_rhf_p_t_2
When I plug the old one in my HTC Touch Cruise and then stereo headphones, to it's 3.5mm jack (without microphone), I can use phone's mic and plugged headphones to talk.
When I do the same with new one I can't use phone's mic. I can hear the other side through headphones but I can't be heard.
What might be a reason for this?
And can I fix this problem somehow so I don't have to unplug headphones each time I want to talk if I'm listening to the music?
Thank you very much in advance!
P.S. FM Radio works with both adapters.
there is no std for 3.5mm mini-jack with mic included
the org spc is only audio out
some headset makers add another ring which don't interfere with the
left, right and ground connectors
but there is no std they can follow
thumb rule is if mic is not mentioned in relation with the 3.5mm adaptor
mic is not supported as they use the pure audio out mini-jack std
thumb rule 2 is if mic is mentioned but it's not the same manufactures
in both end they may not implement mic in 3.5mm the same way and it will
only work with audio out
Thank you for your quick answer but I'm not sure you understood me.
I do not use external mic.
In first case I use 3in1 adapter and my stereo headphone with 3.5mm connector without microphone.
In second case I use this simple in-line adapter and same headphones.
In first case, during call, I can hear the other side through headphones, and the other side hears me through built-in-phone microphone.
In second case, during call, I can hear the other side through headphones, but other side can't hear me.
In both cases FM radio works well. I mention this because I saw that mic and FM antenna are on the same pin in USBext (if that's important since I don't use external mic)
about fm then all it needs is an antenna connected to to it
any stereo maybe even mono connected with a wire will do
heck you can cut off the airplugs from a cable and use it for fm
normaly when one connects a headset speaker and mic on the device itself
are muted
even if it's a headset without mic so cool that your fist case works at all
This first one adapter is original HTC. It has 2.5mm, 3.5mm, USBext for data and charging and USBext for headset connectors. And unfortunately it is too big for any other use except in car (to connect to car's audio aux input) or at home (to connect to home AV reciever).
So I baught this cheap simple in-line adapter. And it is suprisingly well built. And it works great as stereo adapter. Only problem is that it turns of microphone.
Anyhow I did some additional testing.
I tried SE Xperia X1 since it has built in 3.5mm connector. and it works like this first one. That means microphone works.
I also tried plugging this first adapter into my touch cruise and then plugging this second adapter into it's USBext for headset. The result is the same as if I plug second adapter directly into touch cruise. Microphone doesn't work.
Interesting thing is that in all cases (including Xperia) when I listen to the music with external headphones soudn comes only out of them. But when phone starts ringing sound comes from both headphones and from built-in-phone external speaker.
!!! Maybe the most important thing is that microphone doesn't work even if only second adapter is plugged into the phone, without headphones plugged in it.
Obviously this second non-HTC adapter doesn't work as HTC originally planned that kind of adapter to work and now I need a way to fix this.
It seems to me that this adapter is maybe stereo adapter with mic, but I don't have that kind of headset to try it. And if I had it I'm not sure it would be the right one since there's no standard for them.
As I see it when I plug in adapter phone somehow detects it and changes some registry key which mutes microphone.
Does anybody know what to change in registry so that phone doesn't mute microphone?
Or how can I see what changes in registry when I plug in the adapter?
Do you think if I manage to fix this, will that affect bluetooth headset also?
Thank you very much for any help!

Best 3.5mm Bluetooth adapter for my car

Can anyone recommend a good 3.5mm Bluetooth adapter for my car.
Sent from my SPH-D710 using xda premium
I got the scosche by adapter from walmart for $36. It plugs into the 3.5mm jack and works well for audio streaming. Calls not so much.
Dicho por el E4GT de Latinmaxima con Tapatalk.
All bluetooth adapters suck. I've tried 10+ different A2DP capable adapters over the course of 2 years and all simply ruin the high frequencies. Nothing beats hardwired Aux cable if you actually care about sound quality...
Google "tunelink"
A little pricey, but worth it for the audio quality. Plus, it is only for streaming audio.... No speakerphone function...
pojieps said:
Google "tunelink"
A little pricey, but worth it for the audio quality. Plus, it is only for streaming audio.... No speakerphone function...
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Click to collapse
Sorry, but this is just a gimmick for those without knowledge in my opinion. Other than the bluetooth function, which there are a million of those out there, a person could just plug a male to male 3.5mm stereo plug into the phone to the AUX port in the car if its available.
chrisnosleep said:
Sorry, but this is just a gimmick for those without knowledge in my opinion. Other than the bluetooth function, which there are a million of those out there, a person could just plug a male to male 3.5mm stereo plug into the phone to the AUX port in the car if its available.
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Click to collapse
I actually own it... I get WAY better quality over the bluetooth connection than I do with a direct line in. The headphone jack on your phone is designed for just that... headphones. Lining in directly reflects this. Wish there was a way for you to give it a try. I am kind of a sound snob, and I love mine. Plus, all you have to do is get in the car and once the bluetooth pairing happens, the app will open your music app and start playing.
Not trying to push this thing on ya. Just wanted you to know, I own one, and I am not "without knowledge"
Motorola Rokr T505 is small, does well with calls and music playing through blank FM stations to your car stereo. Best $40 investments plus NO CHORDS!
I had this one and used it with my EVO. Worked pretty well.
http://www.amazon.com/Miccus-BluBridge-Mini-Jack-Bluetooth-Bluetooth-Enabled/dp/B0038MA11U
I tried an AUX cable on three different phones. There was always a high pitched whine through my speakers. I started using a Samsung HM3500 plugged into the same AUX jack and got better quality music with no whine. Plus, no extra cable running through my car to the dash mount.
Did you guys all just have a car stereo that had bluetooth built in? I have an '05 Bonneville GXP but the stereo has neither a aux port or bluetooth capability...Major sad face...I really don't want to replace the stereo either because it's nice and fits the look of the car - would look stupid with anything other than a big touchscreen replacement and that's just too expensive.
Any suggestions?
You could get an FM modulator that would allow you to add a line in via your radio antenna, but they don't have great sound quality.
DutchDogg54 said:
Did you guys all just have a car stereo that had bluetooth built in? I have an '05 Bonneville GXP but the stereo has neither a aux port or bluetooth capability...Major sad face...I really don't want to replace the stereo either because it's nice and fits the look of the car - would look stupid with anything other than a big touchscreen replacement and that's just too expensive.
Any suggestions?
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Click to collapse
Yes, just swap out the headunit for one with bluetooth build-in. Just make sure it supports A2DP (music streaming over bluetooth). I got mine from Amazon for $140, Sony MEX-BT3900U, and it been simply great. A2DP for bluetooth streaming, Aux port for wired 3.5mm audio, and it has USB port for charging the phone.
High Pitched whine is a POWER ISSUE
unplug your phone and it should go away. IE change chargers.
nerys71 said:
High Pitched whine is a POWER ISSUE
unplug your phone and it should go away. IE change chargers.
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Not all the time. My car had that problem and there were many other factors at fault.
Here are few things to look out for:
If your car has an amplifier in the rear, make sure that the headunit-to-amplifier audio cables are at least few feet away from power wires (aka, run them on the opposite side of the car than the power cables).
Make sure that the headunit is properly grounded. If that still doesn't help, run both headunit's + and - power wires directly to the car battery.
If problem still persists, repeat #2 but for the amp (if you have it).
If all above failed, it's time to invest in a better headunit. Your old one sucks and can't suppress the noise generated by the chassy/alternator.
I had crappy stock headunit and weaka$$ stock amp that would always make the static and constant whine problems. Ended up completely redoing the car audio system. Now, even with the headunit not grounded audio quality is PERFECT.
Here are the prices for my audio remodeling, all items bought brand new:
- Sony MEX-BT3900U. Headunit with CD, Aux, Handsfree Phone, Bluetooth A2DP audio, USB ($140)
- Hifonics ZXi80.4. Amplifier with 4 channels, 80W RMS per channel ($134)
- Alpine SPS-600 speakers. 6.5" 2-way speakers, 80W RMS ($50 ea)
- Stinger Pro 3 Series Snake. 6-channel, 20 feet RCA snake that goes from headunit to the amp in the rear ($35)
- 2x22' 8AWG battery-to-amp power wire
- 2x18' 12AWG amp-to-headunit power wire
- 4x18' 16AWG amp-to-front speaker wires
- 4x2' 16AWG amp-to-rear speaker wires
- 30A fuse in the engine bay
I ran the power cables on the left side of the car and ran the RCA snake on the right. everything was exactly $525 and I did all work myself (it's quite easy if you ask). now the sound quality in my used-to-be-audio-hell car is dam near perfect now and has absolutely no noise/static at all. you can jack the volume up crazy high without any distortions for like 80Hz+. 80Hz and below can be a problem when maxing out the volume as the speakers are only 6.5" and weren't meant to deliver bass. don't get me wrong, they do make nice bass but just don't handle it too well when playing it very loud.
after years of running this setup I'd say this was one of the best investments i've ever made. my car is built for drifting so it is setup very stiff and shakes/jumps like crazy when dailying (300mi/week) and when i do take it out for a spin the amount of stress it sees it crazy. after all this time you'd think at least some wires would come loose but nope, everything is still running perfect.
so yeah, if you actually care about sound quality in your car and would like it to last, just redo it from scratch. it's fun and is totally worth it
Not trying to pick a fight but lets be clear here
If your car has an amplifier in the rear, make sure that the headunit-to-amplifier audio cables are at least few feet away from power wires (aka, run them on the opposite side of the car than the power cables).
Which is a power issue
Make sure that the headunit is properly grounded.
Which is a power issue
If that still doesn't help, run both headunit's + and - power wires directly to the car battery.
Which is a power issue
If problem still persists, repeat #2 but for the amp (if you have it).
If all above failed, it's time to invest in a better headunit.
Which is a power issue
Your old one sucks and can't suppress the noise generated by the chassy/alternator.
Which is a power issue
See what I mean?
Cars make a lot of "NOISE" this noise is a power issue. it comes from your alternator and your coil and your spark plugs IE "POWER ISSUES"
if you have bad grounds or are lacking noise suppression (cheap equipment old equipment etc.. etc..) or an older car making a TON of extra noise etc.. etc..
Power inverters (especially cheap ones) are notorious for "dirty power" that lets in noise.
when I power my phone off the USB on the cheap inverter's USB port I get big time whine noises painful even.
use the USB port in the radio and I get no noise (but then it tries to "READ" the phone instead of just charging it and won't let me use aux hehe
Sometimes you can get a coil thing to add to power to reduce this noise but usually its just cheap equipment ($7 power inverter
plug a 110v to usb adapter into same inverter and no noise. The 110v adapter isolates and prevents the noise leakage.
nerys71 said:
Not trying to pick a fight but lets be clear here
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haha time to clear up a misunderstanding here. my reply was referring to the "unplug your phone and it should go away" statement and thus assuming that you, by saying "its a power issue", were referring only to the inverter that was powering the phone at times getting a better quality inverter (aka, one that has capacitor or capacitor-pack to smooth out the voltage spikes and noise) is sufficient and at times it is not. I've experienced both. it's also worth mentioning that after redoing my sound system even the crappiest of crap inverters works just fine
frifox said:
Yes, just swap out the headunit for one with bluetooth build-in. Just make sure it supports A2DP (music streaming over bluetooth). I got mine from Amazon for $140, Sony MEX-BT3900U, and it been simply great. A2DP for bluetooth streaming, Aux port for wired 3.5mm audio, and it has USB port for charging the phone.
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Click to collapse
Yeah, I've looked into those kind of replacements...plenty out there for reasonable prices but they would completely mar the aesthetic value of the nice interior of my Bonny. That's why I was saying that only the touchscreens that would fill the whole double (might be 1.5) din stereo spot in my car would do.
Thanks, both of you guys, for your responses...guess I'm stuck waiting till I get a much newer car
I'm not saying that you're wrong about it being a power issue, but the BT headset I mentioned came with an adapter for an AUX jack and that solved my problem. So, either solution works.
the issue is the radio is connected to the same "power source" that your "phone" is now connected to.
so if any component in that chain does not control the power noise (that is what the noise is coming from your power system)
you INJECT that noise into your audio stream the moment you "link" the devices together (power not audio)
this is why if you use a seperate battery pack to charge the phone you will not get this noise. your battery pack is "isolated" from the car's power system literally physically.
I am only talking about the typical whine pop crackle high pitched noise you get the moment you plug in your charger. IE clear no noise plug in chargers Head burster sounds start coming out of your speakers
that noise is a "power issue" you can't eliminate the power issues (except by eliminating your alternator??) but you can filter it. some devices (chargers) do this better than others
the BT unit works because you "broke" the chain. (no audio cable going from the PHONE to the RADIO)
Again, I'm not denying what you're saying. You're absolutely correct. However, OP was asking for the best BT unit to plug into the jack, not how to solve the issues with cables and power sources. I was simply providing my opinion and experience along the lines of what he was asking for.

[Q] confused with bluetooth and audio

I have a standard att galaxy note 2, not rooted.
Typically I use my bt headset to talk on the phone. Recently I learned my car has an aux line in so I can also listen to music.
I used a 3.5mm jack for a while with respecrive rca adapter to my phone. This was nice, and added bonus if my bt headset battery died, the phone conversation would play over the car's speakers and the phone's mic picks up my voice.
The cables were irritating, so I purchased a miccus bt rx thing. Small, slides right on the side of my center console, out of the way.
Music plays fine, but cannot figure out for the life of me how to get the phone conversation onto the car speakers. Instead, the phone shifts to speakerphone. Why won't this work like the wired adapter?
Is this possible?
Thank you for your time, sorry for the silly question.
Are you sure that the phone audio option is selected in the BT settings?
zakerny said:
I have a standard att galaxy note 2, not rooted.
Typically I use my bt headset to talk on the phone. Recently I learned my car has an aux line in so I can also listen to music.
I used a 3.5mm jack for a while with respecrive rca adapter to my phone. This was nice, and added bonus if my bt headset battery died, the phone conversation would play over the car's speakers and the phone's mic picks up my voice.
The cables were irritating, so I purchased a miccus bt rx thing. Small, slides right on the side of my center console, out of the way.
Music plays fine, but cannot figure out for the life of me how to get the phone conversation onto the car speakers. Instead, the phone shifts to speakerphone. Why won't this work like the wired adapter?
Is this possible?
Thank you for your time, sorry for the silly question.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
zakerny said:
the phone shifts to speakerphone. Why won't this work like the wired adapter?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Simply put, the problem is with the 3.5mm male plug that goes into the headset port. Does this new cable have 3 or 4 pins? If it has 4 pins (the regular 3 pins plus the one for the microphone) then if the resistance (measured in OHMs) isn't correct, then the phone should switch over to SpeakerPhone (as set in the firmware).
So in effect, there isn't a problem with your phone, its just that you may have a cable with the 4 pins, but since your radio-adapter isn't doing anything with the microphone portion, then the phone switches over as it is supposed to.
Edit: Ignore the above, I didn't realize you were doing this with a bluetooth connection. Your Bluetooth receiver may be outdated and not support the "handsfree" profile.

Auxiliary Output Issues

I connect my LG G4 to the auxiliary jack in my car stereo (stock stereo in a 2007 Saab 9-3) with a standard 3.5 mm male to male audio cable. The process to get the audio to come through my speakers is rather cumbersome.
I have to follow this procedure:
1. Unplug the audio cable from the aux jack in the car stereo
2. Plug other end of the audio cable into the phone
3. Open Google Music and press play on the music I want to listen to
4. Plug audio cable back into the aux jack on stereo
5. Change stereo from Radio/band to Aux
I have to do this every single time, and if my music happens to reach the end of the album or playlist to where it is no longer playing anything, I have to repeat the above steps. When I had an HTC One M7 and M8 I didn't have to do any of this. I could just connect my phone and press play...no problems.
I really hate having to do this for two reasons. First, if while driving, I decide to listen to music on my phone rather than the radio, it really distracting and unsafe to mess with while driving. Second, I'm afraid with all the plugging/unplugging on my car stereo is going to wear out the aux jack and degrade the audio quality.
Anyone else having this issue with their G4? Any suggestions? I know someone with a G3 and they don't have any issues like this when plugging into their car stereo, although they have a different car, but I don't think it would really matter.
Kevin82485 said:
I connect my LG G4 to the auxiliary jack in my car stereo (stock stereo in a 2007 Saab 9-3) with a standard 3.5 mm male to male audio cable. The process to get the audio to come through my speakers is rather cumbersome.
I have to follow this procedure:
1. Unplug the audio cable from the aux jack in the car stereo
2. Plug other end of the audio cable into the phone
3. Open Google Music and press play on the music I want to listen to
4. Plug audio cable back into the aux jack on stereo
5. Change stereo from Radio/band to Aux
I have to do this every single time, and if my music happens to reach the end of the album or playlist to where it is no longer playing anything, I have to repeat the above steps. When I had an HTC One M7 and M8 I didn't have to do any of this. I could just connect my phone and press play...no problems.
I really hate having to do this for two reasons. First, if while driving, I decide to listen to music on my phone rather than the radio, it really distracting and unsafe to mess with while driving. Second, I'm afraid with all the plugging/unplugging on my car stereo is going to wear out the aux jack and degrade the audio quality.
Anyone else having this issue with their G4? Any suggestions? I know someone with a G3 and they don't have any issues like this when plugging into their car stereo, although they have a different car, but I don't think it would really matter.
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Click to collapse
I do car electronics install for a living... I'm not familiar with how Saab does aux (I don't see many saabs), but in most vehicles there is a 'sense' wire in the aux plug. You will know if it has one because without a cable plugged in, you won't be able to select the aux source. In your case, the residual connection from your phone's fm radio (uses headphone cable as antenna) might be interfering with the 'sense' wire in the aux plug. I would suggest trying a different aux cable, like one with 4 bands instead of 3. They are typically used to carry audio as well as video. If that doesn't work, amazon has these universal Bluetooth receivers that plug into the aux port, which for sure will do what you need it to.
Example of 4 band cable-
http://www.amazon.com/Screen-Screen-3-5mm-Philips-Player/dp/B00D3SXPGC
The Bluetooth reciever would be my choice though-
http://www.amazon.com/Mpow-Bluetooth-Integrated-multi-point-technology/dp/B008AGQMQC
esmenikmatixx said:
I do car electronics install for a living... I'm not familiar with how Saab does aux (I don't see many saabs), but in most vehicles there is a 'sense' wire in the aux plug. You will know if it has one because without a cable plugged in, you won't be able to select the aux source. In your case, the residual connection from your phone's fm radio (uses headphone cable as antenna) might be interfering with the 'sense' wire in the aux plug. I would suggest trying a different aux cable, like one with 4 bands instead of 3. They are typically used to carry audio as well as video. If that doesn't work, amazon has these universal Bluetooth receivers that plug into the aux port, which for sure will do what you need it to.
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The stereo in the model year range of my Saab is basically the same that GM put in Pontiacs and other makes in the 2007 year range. GM owned Saab at the time. I know someone with a Ponitac G6 (I think that is model, it is definitely a Pontiac) and I remember remarking that he had the same stereo as me. The buttons and interface look nearly identical. If I have the aux cable plugged into the stereo I can select the Aux source, even if I don't have anything else connected. If no cable is plugged into the stereo, I cannot select the Aux source.
What I don't understand is why it worked fine with no weird issues with the HTC One M8, but it doesn't work with the G4. Sounds like a software bug to me.
As far as I know Verizon disables the FM receiver in the G4 just like they did in the HTC One M8 and basically all of their phones. It's still in physically in the phone, so maybe it can still interfere in some way, but if it worked on the M8 I don't understand why the G4 is different in this respect.
I'll try a different cable and/or a 4 band cable though and see if it makes a difference.
I used my G4 in my car (2009 RAV4) without issues. I didn't do anything special, just plugged it in then started playing the podcast app. I don't recall if the sequence mattered at all. I typically plug the cable into the phone first, then start playing the audio.
I believe I have a "sense wire" that esmenikmatixx referred to, as I believe my car will not let me select Aux if nothing is plugged into the car. I have an audio cable that I always leave plugged into the car's port, to reduce wear on the jack.
I didn't try the music app in the car, unfortunately. FWIW, Google Music was fine for me with headphones, no weird issues. I have Verizon, but I have since returned my G4, so I can't check anything else for you, sorry.
So I decided to get a bluetooth adapter that plugs into the Aux input on my car stereo and it works great with the exception that the audio volume is ridiculously low. I max out the bluetooth volume on my phone as well as the separate volume on the bluetooth adapter and it is really quiet. Turn up my car stereo you say, but ah, I have to turn my car stereo up to near maximum as well to get a decent volume that could be heard while driving. When I turn the car stereo volume up this loud the speakers become overrun with static and it makes it sound like I'm listening on an FM channel that barely comes in.
I've noticed lower volume over bluetooth on my LG Tone bluetooth earbuds as well. I used these the LG Tone's with my HTC One and had no problems with volume levels. The first time I connected my LG Tones to my LG G4, I had to nearly max out the volume on the Tones (despite having the LG G4 bluetooth volume maxed as well) to hear audio at the same level that I previously did on my HTC One.
So bluetooth is not going to be an answer, the quality is too poor. I dug around on the Play Store and found an app called "Soundabout". The app will allow you to force your audio out through whatever source you want even when the output device is not connected. I set it to force audio through wired headset and it works for the most part. I don't have to do any weird unplugging and re-plugging of audio cable just plug and play. The only thing is that sometimes when I connect the phone and press play on a song you can tell that Soundabout is fighting with the crap software on the phone to force the audio to the wired headset (wired speakers) because the audio will cut in and out and then stop. After pressing play enough times that it wins out, it will finally go through the wired connection. The one downside is that if I'm out of my car and want to listen to something through the speaker on the phone I have to go back into the Soundabout app and change the output to "let the app decide".
So, I'm 100% sure it is something with the software on the phone. There is little doubt. I have no problems with any other phone connected to my car stereo. It's not like I have some aftermarket stereo. This stereo is as stock and basic as you can get. When they designed the audio controls and functionality on this phone they didn't put a lot of thought into it. It's frustrating because otherwise this is a great phone I just hate messing with this stupid audio issue. All I can do is hope it's patched. There are no built-in options on the phone to tweak audio settings.
I can't imagine I'm the only one having problems like this.
LG Customer Support has been predictably unhelpful. I may just return this and get a different phone if I still can.
RedOCtobyr said:
I used my G4 in my car (2009 RAV4) without issues. I didn't do anything special, just plugged it in then started playing the podcast app.
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Same for me. Works fine in my 2008 Subaru. I've run everything from local mp3 files to Audible to iHeartRadio and Pandora through it without a problem. Even the Smart Settings for auto-starting Audible actually work.
Makster said:
Same for me. Works fine in my 2008 Subaru. I've run everything from local mp3 files to Audible to iHeartRadio and Pandora through it without a problem. Even the Smart Settings for auto-starting Audible actually work.
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I plugged it in with an audio cable to my girlfriend's Mazda and it works fine. Guess I'm S.O.L. Highly unlikely LG would patch this if it's software due to being so isolated. Would be interested to hear from those with a mid to late 2000's GM vehicle since they all have basically the same stereo as Saab. Maybe it is an issue with my stereo, but I don't understand then why other phones work just fine.
Frustrating because there is nothing I can do to fix it other than spend a bunch of money to replace my stereo which I can't afford, or spend an equal amount of a bunch of money to pay off the G4 so that I can get a different phone to then make more payments on, and Verizon absolutely, no exceptions, refuses to exchange it for something like a Galaxy, Note 4, anything different than a G4 because I'm 5 days past the 14 day return period. Guess I only have myself to kick in the ass for not doing sooner, but I wish someone at Verizon was kindhearted enough to make an exception.
Sorry for venting.
Sorry to hear about the issues. Did you try the 4 band cable idea?
RedOCtobyr said:
Sorry to hear about the issues. Did you try the 4 band cable idea?
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Not yet, but I will. I've been reading on another website that the G3, last year's model, had this exact same problem. There's a thread with tons of people reporting the same problem. Some used a cable like this one which was suggested earlier and it solved their issue. Suppose I should have tried that to begin with. I'm going to try this one: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00K36XWG0?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=od_aui_detailpages00
I'll report back if it worked or not at least so that if others come across this they have a starting point.
I got the 4 pole to 3 pole audio cable today and it doesn't work. I tried flipping the cable around and it still didn't work. I don't know what else to try, anyone have suggestions?
Kevin 82485, late on this thread but I just purchased a 2007 Saab 9-3 and I'm having the same issues with my LG G4. I just downloaded the soundabout app you mentioned, but have you found a better solution than that?
2007 saab 9-5 and LG Aristo on Metro PCS. Same issue as OP. Its definitely a LG issue, wifes Galaxy works without issues, no fiddling with the cable and audio pausing and plugging unplugging plugging and trying to play audio. Good phone, garbage audio coding.

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