From HackaDay.com: a nice way to probe those pesky BGA chips without stripping the entire board, so we can find JTAG or other connections without sacrificing a device.
Except for the box-knife I would use a (surgical)needle, and I would use a nylon fishing wire which has been roughed with a fine sandpaper (too be able to steer the enameled wire better).
Hope this gives us a better advantage to JTAG devices because we don't have to sacrifice one with this method.
Regards,
EqX
http://hackaday.com said:
Accessing BGA pins
posted Dec 17th 2009 2:00pm by Mike Szczys
filed under: classic hacks
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
[Philip] developed a method of tracking down the pins of a Ball Grid Array. He wanted to do so in order to add USB host functionality to his HP Jordan 720. The method doesn’t directly connect to the BGA but instead finds a via or other access point to serve as a solder point. He first looks up the pin in the BGA datasheet. Once located, he uses the bristle of a toothbrush (teal) to act as a backstop and feeds in some enameled wire (brown) to the appropriate ball. A multimeter is used to check connectivity between the wire and the vias around the chip.
Patience young grasshopper, this should work but it might take a while.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Related
Hi all,
After reading some of the posts regarding headphone adapters for the XDA II (M1000 in my case) I was deciding whether to buy one of them or try to make my own up. My soldering skills are somewhat lacking but I thought I'd go for the latter.
I had three choices:
1) Buy some ear/headphones, take off the phone plug and solder that into the answer/hang up/microphone bit. Would work but would be stuck with that pair of earphone/headphones.
2) Buy a female phone connector, chop off the earphones on the supplied hands free and solder them onto that. Excellent solution for cheep (79p in Maplin!). Looks a little ugly tho cuz of the mahoosive gap around the cable going into the sheath of the socket.
3) Buy a headphone extension lead, chop it off near the female connector end and then solder this onto the PCB of the answer/hang up/microphone bit. This required better soldering skills than I currently have so that'll have to wait until my mate is able to do it for me! Will look better as the connector will be sealed tight to the cable going into it.
So, I lumped for option 2. And I must say it works flawlessly. I also have the advantage now of being able to connect any pair of head/earphones into it or even connecting it into my Hi-Fi/Car stereo/portable speakers depending on what I need!
Couple of pics are below...
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
ND
On the bottom left of the motherboard in this picture:
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
What is that small silver block for, and what do I use to reattach it? Solder?
Thanks!
ok, after more research (thanks to the repair manual which I've attached) I've figured out what this component is called, but still no idea what it is for. Looks like there are 2 of these, one on each side of the motherboard, so if it's not necessary I can live without it.
Component is called "Filter 0.0 Hz 0402", what is that for?
The manual also says to remove/mount using Hot Air, but this is territory I don't have experience with. Do I need some kind of glue/paste to spread before using a heat gun to remount it?
Err I think it's a microphone.
Ok, yeah, I have figured out it's a microphone, and it seems to be the primary one facing in (positioned in the spot where your mouth would be when you talk on the phone), with the secondary facing out for when recording video...
Which brings up the question, how do I mount it? I'm being told that the for "pegs" of the microphone need to remain separately attached to the MB, so some glue wouldn't work since that would make it one big connection like a heatsink. Any ideas?
There are some truly gorgeous stands that folks have build. The most inspiring are the ones made of wood. Unfortunately I have neither the proper tools nor skills to make something like that. Instead I worked with what I had which included a 110V MIG welder and some pencil rod. (Sort of like rebar but smooth and about 1/4" in diameter and cheap. )
It's a little crude but does the job.
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
I might have done a better job or aligning the cutout for the USB connector. It was supposed to slant down.
I prefer landscape orientation for this application so magnets weren't really necessary, just a stand that would hold the charger reasonably well.
(Note: This is on no way intended to demonstrate skillful welding. I would have to hire someone to do that. Like my mentor said. If all you want to do is stick pieces of metal together ... )
I haven't decided what finish to go with. I might just seal the rust with some kind of clear spray paint. First I need to rust the shiny bits.
I like it. Simple and to the point.
Sent from the jaws of my Hammerhead!
really well done man. id love to have one
Some consider adb over bluetooth, but I still believe there are contacts on the watch.
Please look at this picture from the press event:
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
See the 5 contacts on the circuit board?
The circuit board is clearly on the wrong side because the vibration motor would not fit behind the display. It has to be rotated and the contacts would be on the backside.
Now look at the second plastic slice from the right, you can see the 5 holes on them too.
From the animation of the moto 360 site there is a nice render pic too:
I think you could remove the watchband on the lower side and there would be some contacts in the frontside of the plastic.
Could be you can just see the 5 holes and no metal.
Lets see what ifixit would show us.
Another picture from the leak before the event:
If you zoom in you can guess 5 darker dots at the same spot as on the other pics.
so adb over usb? no access to its filesystem?
Looks like you can access the pogo pins by peeling back the FCC sticker:
https://d3nevzfk7ii3be.cloudfront.net/igi/BSaCmnUmb3166USa.huge
So much for our warranties. Taken from iFixit
Slack3r said:
Looks like you can access the pogo pins by peeling back the FCC sticker:
https://d3nevzfk7ii3be.cloudfront.net/igi/BSaCmnUmb3166USa.huge
So much for our warranties. Taken from iFixit
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
ADB can be done over Bluetooth but if this does give USB access that would be great for Fastboot. Now all we need is someone to figure out if that is in fact what is going on and then fashion a way to reliably connect to it.
...
About the antenna connector. It's strange but p8 lite don't have any of those things so there isn't any thing to replace, check this out if you want
https://youtu.be/goz4hDW1UeQ
...
...
cmmx said:
Turns out (as I suspected!), those batteries are a fraud. Here's what's underneath - yep, just a regular 2200mAh battery with a fake sticker over it (pic from Aliexpress):
No wonder...: Buying Batteries in China (Caveat Emptor) - china_batteries.pdf
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for Sharing this Information with us.? I wanted to buy this, but now I won't.
...
cmmx said:
Don't know if they're for an antenna, but the phone definitely has two similar connectors; check the pic:
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
These connectors are for production testing and not intended for customer use. They have a switching blade inside that disconnects the pcb antenna and route the line from the transceiver to the center contact. This switch is not made for multiple actions and can be broken easily. The result will be: No connection to existing antenna = less signal.
With no or an out-of-specs antenna the TX PA may be operated in unspecified SWR and power rating, soon blowing it, not to mention possible EIRP excess and so on.
Another problem is the RX LNA are usually not ESD proof. Touch of death. No signal.
So homemade wire antennas are not a good idea.