Related
Ive been plagued by the thought that the damn dock should...by all accounts have a USB out. Now I suppose that it may have came down to a decision point of "Which is the more likely scenario... audio out or USB to a computer out", but I find myself squarely in the "dont care about audio" side of that debate.
The idea would be to crack this little sucker open, see whats inside and (hopefully) take the micro-usb connection that it has out the back of the dock with a new tip.
Now that Ive opened it up, I believe I can get there. I'll tinker around with it in the next few days to verify things like theres no "control" (or similar) signal running through the USB connections from a power perspective and whatnot. If I can do it, it will be my intent to make it look as stock as I can and I'll be sure to post any walkthroughs, pics, etc that somebody else might want.
To open it up, you have to remove the rubber pad from the bottom. Its got a lot of adhesive on it and (at least in my case) looks like something that I can successfully stick back on.
Under that, you'll find what appears to be depressions in the plastic bottom. Take a utility knife (or similar) and cut around the edges of the depressions. They are part of a plastic film that I saw absolutely no reason to be afraid of removing.
Once the holes are exposed, you'll need a T4 bit to remove the screws. Then you can just open it up.
Thats the extent of my exploration so far...
Heres a pic:
While you are at it...
Would you mind checking which of the connectors for charging is (+) and which is (-)? If I am really trying to build that alternative charger connector then I'll need to know. Thanks man!
funnycreature said:
Would you mind checking which of the connectors for charging is (+) and which is (-)? If I am really trying to build that alternative charger connector then I'll need to know. Thanks man!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The power is run to the right pin, if you were just starring at the device from the front.
gigglebox said:
The power is run to the right pin, if you were just starring at the device from the front.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This will come in handy when the time is right! :thumb up:
as far as i can tell all you would need to do is make sure there is enuff room and put a male to female cable inside. No need to mess with the board inside.
I think you've got a great idea. Any Progress yet.
Thanks for posting this picture. I'm going to do a straightforward mod by simply drilling a hole out the backside of the dock, running the wire through the hole and soldering the leads together. This method keeps me from having to dremel an exact fit USB-A connection and providing an internal support for the port.
Oooooh yeah, mine will be ghetto rigged tonight. I'll order a female mini USB socket from digikey or somewhere to make it a little better in the future - but for tonight its getting hacked together.
Thanks for the pic, it was just enough encouragement to take it apart.
I'm tempted to buy the cradle, is there any way you can take a picture of the front and back of the PCB, I'm curious if there are existing pads for the USB cable.
I'm also curious about the possibility of adding a micro HDMI connection to the standard dock to make a "Swiss Army" dock, those pictures would help be get a better idea if I should buy this dock or the HDMI dock.
I don't understand why Moto didn't make a dock with power, HDMI, USB, and headphone. Then you can keep everything hooked to the dock and add/remove the device as desired. This is how most PC docks work. Is there a technical issue that would preclude all ports being brought out from the bottom connections (understanding the devices headphone jack is on the top)??
A design issue I see as far as wear and tear is the lack of docking "keys" built into the bottom of the device to aid in port alignment. It seems like getting the right alignment will be hit and miss and could put undo stress on the ports.
You were using a nail clipper to open it?
If I spend the cash for a moto brand dock, I am going to add a fullsize USB/HDMI and power to it. There is no excuse for not including these.
Do it and post the instructions, I want
Sent from my MZ604 using Tapatalk
ive modded my dock to have a usb in so i can use the dock and have my hard drive connected at the same time you can check it out @
forum.androidcentral.com/showthread.php?p=835069&posted=1#post835069
Hi, I'm bumping this thread to ask if there's any chip or so in the dock to control the audio? I would lika to make a microUSB to 3.5mm cable to avoid the distrubances from the wifi in the badly insulated headphone-port.
I imagine there must be since usb is a digital signal and headphones use analog signals. Maybe I should go all the way and make a pocket amp instead
Thanks
Here it is!
Things we now know for sure.
1. It Does not have BT.
2. It uses SPDIF out of the middle pin.
3. It has a TOSLINK 3.5mm connector for line out/ digital optical audio out.
4. It uses a PULSUS PSM702 chip and a COREDRIVER GC89C510A0 microcontroller
buy it?
now does anybody knows where i can buy the piece in picture number 3??
lionheart7282 said:
now does anybody knows where i can buy the piece in picture number 3??
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That would make this DIY even better!
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1493797
Looks like that chip connected to the pogo dock is a coreriver SC.
http://www.coreriver.com/product-lines/top_CORERIVERmcu.html
I can make out GC89C??? so probably a midas 2.2 or 2.4 programmable microprocessor.
Looks like we will need to follow the lead from here to get a dock working properly.
Hey, Could you send me some higher resolution pictures of the board? I am specifically interested in the small chip near were the pogo pin cable gets attached to the main board. Or the numbers off of it would be good
Also, do you have access to an oscilloscope or logic analyzer? I have been trying to get a dock to play with myself, but it is taking some time
silverchris said:
Hey, Could you send me some higher resolution pictures of the board? I am specifically interested in the small chip near were the pogo pin cable gets attached to the main board. Or the numbers off of it would be good
Also, do you have access to an oscilloscope or logic analyzer? I have been trying to get a dock to play with myself, but it is taking some time
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I tried reading the all thee numbers off it but it is obscured by what looks like a black marker dot. All I can read is GC89C5, I believe there are at least 3 more numbers/letters.
I do not have access to either an oscilloscope or logic analyzer.
Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using XDA
EDIT: After a closer look and some better lighting we have a GC89C510A0
Sorry, I meant the one near the mark "U9" above VBUS +5V
silverchris said:
Sorry, I meant the one near the mark "U9" above VBUS +5V
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It reads 0524P, Looks like a ESD chip.
If any of you actually make one of the diy versions you should sell them since i won't buy samsungs way to overpriced
for me, by me and I love you
This has already been done for the EVO 4g using Palm Touchstone capable scraps but I want to take it to another level. Since i'm not much of a programmer I can add to the community in this way.
Please let me know how many of you are interested in this. I'm going to put up full walk throughs as I move along but I will also sell some off (in the marketplace) for those that don't want to go through the hassle. I'm going to start ordering parts and building mock-ups and doing some design work during slow downs at work. I'll have a donation link up eventually if any one wants to help cover the initial costs.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
CURRENT DEVELOPMENT STAGE: 1- INDUCTIVE CASE RESEARCH, see #1
PLEASE KEEP AN EYE ON THIS POST (general updates) AND POST#3 (useful links and eventually tutorial)
:good:KEEP DISCUSSION AROUND THE FOLLOWING DESIGN INTENTIONS/ ABOVE DEVELOPMENT STAGE:good:
Design Intents are as follows:
1) A case for housing the inductive coil/wiring
This just requires compatible cases with necessary clearance for the inductive coil and wiring to the male micro usb. Cases with oversized bumpers would be best since they will keep drops from damaging the micro usb plug that will be sticking out of the bottom of the phone. This may not be ideal so if anyone is decent and making plastic molds maybe we could come up with an attachment to a case.
2)NO Hard wiring inside/to the phone
This involves using low profile male mirco USB type B connectors, like this, and mounting and wiring to the case. This will keep your plug always covered and keep you from trying to charge your phone with both inductive and regular usb to the wall/pc. The main design issue here is protecting the male connector to the phone. Suggest usb connectors, wiring, how to boost the amperage, does the palm pre coil protect from over voltage, etc.
3)A car kit.
I will start with my car, A nissan sentra SR, for the car kit. Others are encouraged to come up/share your solutions as well! This should be a hard wired solution using the palm pre/pixi round touchstone dock. Kind of like a dash mount. I think the magnet should hold the phone ok being that my car isn't one of the most powerful things on the planet but for you hot rodders out there keep that possible issue in mind.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Current Progress: CASEAlright I have the cases in hand! I got three of them in the mail and will be tearing these apart this weekend. The pucks (touchstone bases) should be here sometime next week.
I'm also looking at the following cases
Ballistic
Ballistic 2
Clear S Case
The ballistic I am hoping will give clearance for the micro usb. They will be a bit heavier though... we'll see.
I going to order 2 cases for starters, what should they be?
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
**ANY ORIGINAL IDEA/METHOD/MODIFICATION DISCUSSED IN THE THREAD IS THE SOLE INTELLECTUAL PROPERTY OF THE CONTRIBUTOR AND IS NOT OPEN FOR COMMERCIALIZATION WITH OUT THE DIRECT CONSENT OF THE ORIGINAL CONTRIBUTOR- In other words... don't rip off your buddies ideas and give credit where due**
Wrong thread
Useful Links and Resources
Useful Links and Resources
This post will provide you with the knowledge necessary to learn what you need to complete this project. Any helpful links your share in this thread will be copied here.
General Info
What is Electromagnetic Induction? - HERE
A little about wireless power distribution - HERE
Other Mod References
ManiacMagic's E4GT Soldered Inductive Mod - HERE
darrenf's from android central Soldered - HERE
(thanks DaisyPlucksta for the links)
Helpful Videos
qianqinde's how-to for International GS2 (soldered) - HERE thank's rwilco12
Regarding the thread, this would be hardware development which i believe belongs in the general section. As for the idea, it seems like as long as its not too bulky most users wouldn't mind if it extended battery life substantially like 24 hours or more. Could make you rich with over 9.million sgsIII owners. But Im pretty sure there are already many types of chargers on the market so unless i missed something perhaps you should submit this to a patent office so no one steals the idea or design. Just my two cents dinner no one else has posted. But ya not software development so I would move three thread before you get flamed too bad.
No flaming allowed.
Sent from my "I didn't text you last night… Jack Daniels texted you" using xda premium
Maybe in accessories? Good luck. Sound fun. I might be interested once your done.
Sent from my SPH-D710 using Tapatalk 2
abw0046 said:
This has already been done for the EVO 4g using Palm Touchstone capable scraps but I want to take it to another level. Since i'm not much of a programmer I can add to the community in this way.
Design Intents are as follows:
1) A case based solution, the ET4G is too damn thin!
This is just require compatible cases with necessary clearance and materials
that are least obstructive to the magnetic field.
2)NO Hard wiring inside/to the phone
This involves ordering male mirco USB type B connectors and mounting and wiring to the case. This will keep your plug always covered and keep you from trying to charge your phone with both inductive and regular usb to the wall/pc. The only issue here is protecting the male connector to the phone. I've some ideas for this but will be very dependent on the case we use.
3)A car kit.
I will start with my car, A nissan sentra SR, for the car kit. This will be a hard wired solution using the palm pre/pixi round touchstone dock. Kind of like a dash mount. I think the magnet should hold the phone ok being that my car isn't one of the most powerful things on the planet but for you hot rodders I'll keep that possible issue in mind.
Please let me know how many of you are interested in this. I'm going to put up full walk throughs as I move along but I will also sell some off for those that don't want to go through the hassle (is that ok on here? or do i need to set up donations?). Either way let me know because I'm going to start order parts and doing some design work during slow downs at work.
Thoughts? Concerns?
Oh and if you have other devices you would like this type of solution for I'm cool with that. Just ask and we'll work through it!
OH man... here we go!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm game! I tried doing it myself but I could only find the one spot on the USB plug to hook up to. I opted but to do it because there was some massive dismantling and soldering I would've had to do. I've still got the parts ready for when someone smarter than me figures out an easier way to do it though!
playingbball20 said:
Wrong thread
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Technically, he is developing something. Just not code.
Sent from my SPH-D710 using XDA
great idea. i have 4 touchstones kicking around. would love to be able to use them.
Technically, this IS "development"
Anyway, I would be interested in this myself. Seems like a great idea. I'm pretty handy & I have a welder/soldering station at my job. Would be happy to help out.
Sent from my SPH-D710 using XDA
I would pay money for this...
Sent from my SPH-D710 using XDA
This sounds very cool. And technically this is development. Just not software related. So I don't see where else this could go.
Sent from my SPH-D710 using XDA
abw0046 said:
This has already been done for the EVO 4g using Palm Touchstone capable scraps but I want to take it to another level. Since i'm not much of a programmer I can add to the community in this way.
.......
Please let me know how many of you are interested in this. I'm going to put up full walk throughs as I move along but I will also sell some off for those that don't want to go through the hassle (is that ok on here? or do i need to set up donations?). Either way let me know because I'm going to start order parts and doing some design work during slow downs at work.
Thoughts? Concerns?
Oh and if you have other devices you would like this type of solution for I'm cool with that. Just ask and we'll work through it!
OH man... here we go!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Just a thought.
What would be the charging time using touchstone/conductive charging; or in other words, what would be the output voltage/current provided to the phone. It takes a while on regular chargers to charge the phone compared to HTC phones.
haha I actually did this too my I500. Literally car kit and everything. Even had it play music through Bluetooth. except I hated cases on that phone so I hardwired it. looked so much sexier. But the case is easier. Built like that too just didn't have the car cradle
sent from aokp tablet sgs2
lickarock said:
Technically, he is developing something. Just not code.
Sent from my SPH-D710 using XDA
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
True
How much would this be for a car charger and home charger wireless
Sent from my SPH-D710 using xda premium
I have 2 palm touchstones, 2 old fried pre & pre2, and 2 phone backs for the touchstone charger to integrate with the phone..
I would absolutely love to know how to integrate the "guts" of the battery cover with the needed parts into the e4gt innards to make the wireless charger .. but I'm not sure how yet.. :/ I will keep reading and post here if I get it working..
I assume that the physical connection is totally possible but the OS will most likely need to be able to control voltage and jazz so I'm not sure what would be needed for that part..
sj
Sent from my E4GT on AoKPm5 FF02 OS4.0.4 w/ dpi @ 128 with [email protected] 2.1.1 Pro
Thanks for all the interest and offers for assistance. Being that its my friend's birthday as well as my own on top of fathers day weekend I won't start any design research until Monday.
I have ordered some parts which should be here late next week. I am still trying to find a source for some type B micro USB plugs. Guess I'll shoud stop throwing away those electronic component magazines. I did a quick search and found some but they were $6.50 each with $10 shipping. If any of you have a source for these let me know. Hell you can send me spare cables and I'll deconstruct them if I have to, but that's not very fun.
When I get on my PC I'll add a poll to see where you all would like this topic to be. Then I'll ask you how do I move it
Sent from my SPH-D710 on Rubix using XDA
Lets do it!
I actually got the touchstone and pre back and ripped out the inductive charging circuit just for this (I actually got it for my evo, but I upgraded before I had the chance to follow the evo guide). I'm excited for this!
Anyway - some heads up - the E4GT is MUCH heavier and bigger than the pre. Don't expect it to stay firmly attached. It will stay okay, but you need a really thin back face of the case. You may also try replacing the thin magnets with thicker rare earths. I actually got it under the stock cover okay, and that worked decently, but no good way to attach it. That's where I quit (after thinking about soldering to the board, but not having a good place on the USB connector without taking the phone all of the way apart. I also didn't fins another point on the board to solder to (like the charging circuit), although I'm sure it's there somewhere.
Also, you need to mount the inductive charging circuit a little low because the phone is so long that it will hit the table and not mount properly if you put it in the middle. Furthermore, be ware that if you add a connector to the USB port, this will exacerbate this problem, perhaps to the point of requiring landscape or stronger magnets.
The USB connector you want are available at a number of places. Ebay has some cheap micro usb adapters (including right angle) that you might play with. If you just want the connector itself, it will likely be more expensive, but I suggest checking mouser or digikey.
Good luck! This will be AWESOME!
---------- Post added at 12:59 AM ---------- Previous post was at 12:51 AM ----------
Whoa! Just got curious enough to do a quick google search. You may want to czech these out real quick:
Soldering route: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1451684
again: http://forums.androidcentral.com/ep...c-4g-touch-stone-mod-details-lots-photos.html
DaisyPlucksta said:
I actually got the touchstone and pre back and ripped out the inductive charging circuit just for this (I actually got it for my evo, but I upgraded before I had the chance to follow the evo guide). I'm excited for this!
Anyway - some heads up - the E4GT is MUCH heavier and bigger than the pre. Don't expect it to stay firmly attached. It will stay okay, but you need a really thin back face of the case. You may also try replacing the thin magnets with thicker rare earths. I actually got it under the stock cover okay, and that worked decently, but no good way to attach it. That's where I quit (after thinking about soldering to the board, but not having a good place on the USB connector without taking the phone all of the way apart. I also didn't fins another point on the board to solder to (like the charging circuit), although I'm sure it's there somewhere.
Also, you need to mount the inductive charging circuit a little low because the phone is so long that it will hit the table and not mount properly if you put it in the middle. Furthermore, be ware that if you add a connector to the USB port, this will exacerbate this problem, perhaps to the point of requiring landscape or stronger magnets.
The USB connector you want are available at a number of places. Ebay has some cheap micro usb adapters (including right angle) that you might play with. If you just want the connector itself, it will likely be more expensive, but I suggest checking mouser or digikey.
Good luck! This will be AWESOME!
---------- Post added at 12:59 AM ---------- Previous post was at 12:51 AM ----------
Whoa! Just got curious enough to do a quick google search. You may want to czech these out real quick:
Soldering route: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1451684
again: http://forums.androidcentral.com/ep...c-4g-touch-stone-mod-details-lots-photos.html
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Awesome find DP! Looks extremely promising! I will see if I can get it working as soon as I have the time.. hopefully sometime this week
sj
Sent from my E4GT on AoKPm5 FF02 OS4.0.4 w/ dpi @ 128 with [email protected] 2.1.1 Pro
Hey xda Devs' :angel:,
I got this insane and "completely out there" idea of engineering my phone by soldering a MicroSD ribbon cable to the PCB of my phone for a external storage compatibility.
The ribbon cable I am looking at right now is a 8-pin FFC/FPC (flexible flat cable, flexible printed circuit) MicroSD ribbon cable.
There is a tear down of my phone at the ifixit website.
What I was wondering if that, if there is a way of soldering this on a spare PCB connection on the board. And if I cant, that if I can take a unused part off the PCB (like the 3 copper dots on the right of your phone) by de-soldering it, and using that. :good:
Been high recently?
Having a hangover maybe??
That's crazy!!!
Do it and say bye bye to your gnex.
Chuck Norris style!!
Wish you all luck though
TheImpossibleEnemy said:
Been high recently?
Having a hangover maybe??
That's crazy!!!
Do it and say bye bye to your gnex.
Chuck Norris style!!
Wish you all luck though
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks man. But I'm not high and/or having a hang over.
Maybe I should do it when I'm high or having a hang over. (sarcasm)
You can buy one of these.
http://r.ebay.com/oDKDQN
or
http://www.meenova.com/st/p/m3r.html
But you will not be able to find the schematic of the system board, add the connections to a possible unpopulated internal bus, and then source a flex harness the correct length. Well, you could, but it would easily push past the value of the cheap ebay external component.
btom.harris said:
Hey xda Devs' :angel:,
I got this insane and "completely out there" idea of engineering my phone by soldering a MicroSD ribbon cable to the PCB of my phone for a external storage compatibility.
The ribbon cable I am looking at right now is a 8-pin FFC/FPC (flexible flat cable, flexible printed circuit) MicroSD ribbon cable.
There is a tear down of my phone at the ifixit website.
What I was wondering if that, if there is a way of soldering this on a spare PCB connection on the board. And if I cant, that if I can take a unused part off the PCB (like the 3 copper dots on the right of your phone) by de-soldering it, and using that. :good:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hey man, "completely out there ideas" are what drive innovation , so as long as you've weighed the risks , have at it! I'm sorry I have no way to help with the connections , but hopefully someone will be able to point you in the right direction. Good luck
A simpler alternative would be to get a microUSB to USB dongle and a Flash drive, plus a kernel that supports mounting flash drives and voilá, instant "SD Card".
I don't think its possible without a good bit of engineering skills, assuming you manage to fit the cable properly, you'd have to build a custom kernel and/or rom that has enabled micro SD support. Neat idea tho, I believe someone successfully did the hardware part on the nexus 7.
Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk
IRX120 said:
I don't think its possible without a good bit of engineering skills, assuming you manage to fit the cable properly, you'd have to build a custom kernel and/or rom that has enabled micro SD support. Neat idea tho, I believe someone successfully did the hardware part on the nexus 7.
Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I use CyanogenMod, so I'll to find its source code and modify it some.
But maybe not, could I just build a kernel module or driver that loads into the OS without rebuilding another OS entirely?
btom.harris said:
I use CyanogenMod, so I'll to find its source code and modify it some.
But maybe not, could I just build a kernel module or driver that loads into the OS without rebuilding another OS entirely?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
you should be able to mod a kernel to enable the sdcard access,hell you get this working ill even build mine for you with the sdcard support
I have one of these
http://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Voyager-Android-devices-CMFVG-32GB-NA/dp/B00HVT27CW
It works great both plugged into the phone as well as just a normal USB3 flash drive. VERY tiny and handy, and certainly must less destructive than some of the other methods here!
Hey all,
I just replaced the charging port on my m8 and wanted to let people know it is straight forward. My port got corroded and was shorting out, melting the adapter and not charging the phone. I sent it in hoping for warranty, but the replacement quote was $400! (due to S-off they "had" to replace the entire motherboard). The phone has a separate pcb with the micro usb charge port and headphone input.
example:
http://www.witrigs.com/media/catalo...a71cb48e3d52cb890e76f9e6353/1/0/109063-01.jpg
To remove this board you need to do a few easy things:
1) disconnect the ribbon and remove the insulating tape (to reattach to new part)
2) unsnap the small white power cable
3) loosen the screw on the motherboard near the headphone input. This is clamping down the assembly a bit
tools required:
phillips 00
t5 torx bit
spudger/guitar picks
I would recommend prying the phone out of the frame starting from the bottom. I started from the top and bent the thin strip of aluminum above the sim slot when prying it out.
Also, you can pry the bracket/spring off the top of the old usb port to give the new one a tight fit if your replacement didnt come with it (like mine)
Lastly, just note that power button fell out as soon as I pried the frame apart from the guts. This made it a bit of a pain to reassemble - just be sure to reassemble with the top in first. That will keep the power button in place.
The replacement part cost me $30, so it was definitely worth it! phone now works great.
bookfast said:
Hey all,
I just replaced the charging port on my m8 and wanted to let people know it is straight forward. My port got corroded and was shorting out, melting the adapter and not charging the phone. I sent it in hoping for warranty, but the replacement quote was $400! (due to S-off they "had" to replace the entire motherboard). The phone has a separate pcb with the micro usb charge port and headphone input.
example:
http://www.witrigs.com/media/catalo...a71cb48e3d52cb890e76f9e6353/1/0/109063-01.jpg
To remove this board you need to do a few easy things:
1) disconnect the ribbon and remove the insulating tape (to reattach to new part)
2) unsnap the small white power cable
3) loosen the screw on the motherboard near the headphone input. This is clamping down the assembly a bit
tools required:
phillips 00
t5 torx bit
spudger/guitar picks
I would recommend prying the phone out of the frame starting from the bottom. I started from the top and bent the thin strip of aluminum above the sim slot when prying it out.
Also, you can pry the bracket/spring off the top of the old usb port to give the new one a tight fit if your replacement didnt come with it (like mine)
Lastly, just note that power button fell out as soon as I pried the frame apart from the guts. This made it a bit of a pain to reassemble - just be sure to reassemble with the top in first. That will keep the power button in place.
The replacement part cost me $30, so it was definitely worth it! phone now works great.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hey there. Interesting to know that you replaced it all your self . Did you put everything back perfectly ? I mean the display being aligned properly to the body, the speaker grills being flushed with the body; ? Weird to ask, but did you damage anything while doing it all yourself ? Like the screen scratches, or something else ? Sorry, for asking these... Thanks in advance :good:
Tej XFire said:
Hey there. Interesting to know that you replaced it all your self . Did you put everything back perfectly ? I mean the display being aligned properly to the body, the speaker grills being flushed with the body; ? Weird to ask, but did you damage anything while doing it all yourself ? Like the screen scratches, or something else ? Sorry, for asking these... Thanks in advance :good:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I haven't re-glued the speaker covers back on yet so I dont know if they will be perfectly flush or not, although they still look flat so I think it will look good.
The only damage is a slight bend in the frame on the screen side of the sim tray slot. The metal is thin, and I pried against it to get the hardware out of the frame. That is why I recommended to start from the bottom when separating the two. Doing this should allow others to avoid this problem. It is slight, maybe 1/4mm gap where it used to be flush along the side of the screen above the sim tray.
Otherwise everything was smooth. The screen/frame etc are still mint.
bookfast said:
I haven't re-glued the speaker covers back on yet so I dont know if they will be perfectly flush or not, although they still look flat so I think it will look good.
The only damage is a slight bend in the frame on the screen side of the sim tray slot. The metal is thin, and I pried against it to get the hardware out of the frame. That is why I recommended to start from the bottom when separating the two. Doing this should allow others to avoid this problem. It is slight, maybe 1/4mm gap where it used to be flush along the side of the screen above the sim tray.
Otherwise everything was smooth. The screen/frame etc are still mint.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Cool, you've done it like a pro then. :good: .Any picture describing the damage would be helpful, if you can provide. Is the display mint ? No scuffs/scratches on it ? But, my speaker grills were damaged onto the edges after the repair was carried out. Does yours show the same sign ? I don't mean the flatness of the grills, but the damage that should be done, while prying out the grills. A picture showing your damage would be helpful to me. I could do the same, if you insist. Thanks ! :good:
Mine is busted. But I cannot find the PCB. The link in the op is dead.
Any ideas?
http://www.witrigs.com/oem-charging-port-flex-for-htc-one-m8
bookfast said:
http://www.witrigs.com/oem-charging-port-flex-for-htc-one-m8
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I actually got one off eBay for $17.21. Works perfectly.
Just wondering....
Sounds like you were able to avoid some steps in the teardown guide, if I recall it was damn near a total disassemble. Do you have a lot of experience with phones? I want to fix mine, but don't need a tedious project right now. If I repair mine I'd like to put a mini USB in place of the micro if possible, I've seen too many damaged micro usb to trust or like them. As for the speaker grills, if you're picky buy replacements, they're cheap.
microphone on charging port?
bookfast said:
Hey all,
I just replaced the charging port on my m8 and wanted to let people know it is straight forward. My port got corroded and was shorting out, melting the adapter and not charging the phone. I sent it in hoping for warranty, but the replacement quote was $400! (due to S-off they "had" to replace the entire motherboard). The phone has a separate pcb with the micro usb charge port and headphone input.
example:
link
To remove this board you need to do a few easy things:
1) disconnect the ribbon and remove the insulating tape (to reattach to new part)
2) unsnap the small white power cable
3) loosen the screw on the motherboard near the headphone input. This is clamping down the assembly a bit
tools required:
phillips 00
t5 torx bit
spudger/guitar picks
I would recommend prying the phone out of the frame starting from the bottom. I started from the top and bent the thin strip of aluminum above the sim slot when prying it out.
Also, you can pry the bracket/spring off the top of the old usb port to give the new one a tight fit if your replacement didnt come with it (like mine)
Lastly, just note that power button fell out as soon as I pried the frame apart from the guts. This made it a bit of a pain to reassemble - just be sure to reassemble with the top in first. That will keep the power button in place.
The replacement part cost me $30, so it was definitely worth it! phone now works great.
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My HTC M8's main call microphone has stopped working, and through searches on Google it seems that perhaps that this mic (first mic, non-speakerphone mic) is built into the charging port. Is this the case? I cannot find anything that explicitly says this, and I'd love to get the phone back in working condition.
dm8233 said:
My HTC M8's main call microphone has stopped working, and through searches on Google it seems that perhaps that this mic (first mic, non-speakerphone mic) is built into the charging port. Is this the case? I cannot find anything that explicitly says this, and I'd love to get the phone back in working condition.
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I too am also curious if the mic is on the usb part because my mic doesnt wrk when i make calls.
Will replacing the usb port fix the problem?
Harvey02 said:
I too am also curious if the mic is on the usb part because my mic doesnt wrk when i make calls.
Will replacing the usb port fix the problem?
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I called HTC, the mic is on the USB port, although you should make sure that it's not a software issue first. There are several threads on the internet easily found through Google which discuss doing a factory reset to resolve this if it turns out to be a software problem.
Thanks for your reply. I did a factory reset when I got the phone but it still doesn't work. Does that mean it's not a software problem and that if I replace the usb it should work?
Harvey02 said:
Thanks for your reply. I did a factory reset when I got the phone but it still doesn't work. Does that mean it's not a software problem and that if I replace the usb it should work?
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I would think so, yes.
Thanks! Do you know of any online source confirming that?
Harvey02 said:
Thanks! Do you know of any online source confirming that?
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No, but from what I've studied about it, it should work. Feel free to contact HTC, they actually have a live chat available somewhere on their website. Good luck to you.
Very interesting, I contacted htc and we went through diagnostics together and the rep said that I have to send it in. I asked him if the mic was on the usb assembly and he said that it wasn't and rather it was on the motherboard, and I clarified that we were talking about the primary mic which is located near the usb port. Confusing bec everywhere I saw online said that the mic is on the usb assembly. Go figure!
Harvey02 said:
Very interesting, I contacted htc and we went through diagnostics together and the rep said that I have to send it in. I asked him if the mic was on the usb assembly and he said that it wasn't and rather it was on the motherboard, and I clarified that we were talking about the primary mic which is located near the usb port. Confusing bec everywhere I saw online said that the mic is on the usb assembly. Go figure!
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What did you end up doing? Did you discover if it was on the motherboard or the part with the USB port? I've waited a while to repair mine for other reasons, and I am now prepared to fix it. Any information would be helpful.
Just a few notes on my own experience.
I replaced the screen in my friend's M8 a few months ago. Seemed like everything went ok, except after I got done, the mic didn't work anymore. This is strange because it worked fine before, and all I did was remove/replace the circuit board in the process (yes, the small one at the bottom with the uUSB port). However, the upper rear microphone was still working I believe, because people on the other end of the line could still hear if the phone was put into speakerphone mode. I don't know why it would stop working all of a sudden.... Ran the HTC audio test using *#*#3424*#* to confirm main mic wasn't working and that the aux rear mic was.
Fast forward to this week, with my own M8. The uUSB connector was going bad, and I was having trouble charging, so I figured it was time to replace that circuit board. Ordered a new one and replaced, but when I got it back together, the USB port was fine of course, but my mic wasn't working now, just like my friends! On top of that, the headphone jack didn't work at all. Most likely the "cable inserted" signal wasn't getting back up to the motherboard, but didn't check. So pissed off. Also, the new board I got didn't have the bottom left RF connector/circuitry populated. Thinking from research that it might be for the GPS? I should have tested when the board was in there, but didn't. Fixed a bad solder joint on the original board's uUSB connector, which helped, but still charging is a bit messed up. I'd rather have a working mic and headphone jack and have to play with the cable to get to charge for a while until I get another board (from another supplier, jerks).
Yes, the mic is the small chip on the very left side of the board. It has a hole underneath the chip, going through the board and to the front face to receive the acoustics.
I don't know why the mic not working is so common after an HTC One M8 tear down, as it seems many others are having the same issue. One theory I have is that pulling the circuit board from the motherboard while power is still applied (not unplugging the battery first) might be jacking the microphone somehow. Just a theory, but I'd recommend to be safe that anyone replacing the board should unplug the battery cable before replacing the USB/mic circuit board.
I'd just like to chime in to say that I've read about some people having problems with the mic not working after replacing the USB board. From what I understand, there are two different versions of it, and replacing it with the wrong one can cause that very issue. You should look into it.
EDIT: Source - http://www.witrigs.com/blog/htc-one-m8-audio-jack-not-work-after-charging-board-replacement/
Mic broken after USB repair
Old thread but I have the same problem. Replaced USB board and now my mic does not work. However I am pretty certain I did order the correct board (had 2x connectors for my Verizon HTC m8). And my microphone jack work great which others indicate is often broken along with the mic. Anyone have any workarounds?