Hi,
I have just bought the galaxy nexus and am wondering if any of you bright bods could think of a way to do this. I have a Fiat bravo with blue and me so use the usb port for media playback, however this does not supply enough power to keep the phone charging if using navigation too. I also have a 750mA 12 volt charger. Is there a cable that would allow me to have both the media player cable connected and the cigarette lighter cable connected at the same time, preferably with d- d+ shorted so that high speed charging would be available as the effective power available should be 1.2A if my thinking is correct
Related
Hi all! I'm going to try to come at the usb sync / charge cable not charging problem from a different angle - how could/should you be able to tell if the battery is fully charged and does this have any implications for cable construction?
My much abused cable has, as far as I can tell, all the right connections but after I get the green 100% charged indicator for a couple of minutes, it discharges and I am trying to figure out why, thinking about hardware first.
The cable I'm using is [2,5,16,17,18 - GND], [13,20,21,22 - VCC], [14 - USB_D+], [15 - USB_D-].
Can anyone help? Suggestions would be welcome! ta...
The answer seems to be yes in that there is a simple hardware fix to allow the phone to manage its own charging.
For a usb sync / charge cable, USB_data+ and USB_Data- go to pins [14] and [15], GND goes to GND pins [16,17,18]and VCC goes to USB_VDD pin [13] and then the detection is enabled by connecting [13] to pins[20,21,22] through a 0.15 Ohm resistor. This enables the phone to measure and manage current flow.
This cable works with the usb port on my notebook as well as through a usb cigarette lighter adapter and a usb wall charger adapter. With the ciggie adapter at 12v, it takes between 0.17/0.19 amps with occasional peaks at 0.27 amps, mostly hovering <0.2 amps. I was going to use a ps2 - usb mouse convertor to power the phone at 5v (easy to bodge wires into the holes in a female ps2 connector!) to check the 'normal' current level on a usb port, but life is too short!
Running the cable through the lighter dapter with a gps mouse attached, the current goes to 0.3/0.35 amps with occasional peaks at 0.39/0.4 amps.
Hope that this helps someone in the future!
Is there a way to charge ya phone through the USB as quick as it would charge through the mains?
It takes for ever to charge through USB?
No. Because USB hub doesn't have as much output as charger.
I know standard usb gives 5V
how much does the wall charger give??
I have a freeloader solar charger, and don't know if I can use the 9.5V output on my desire.
jbej said:
I know standard usb gives 5V
how much does the wall charger give??
I have a freeloader solar charger, and don't know if I can use the 9.5V output on my desire.
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Click to collapse
It's not the Volts that's the problem its the Amps
The wall charger provides 1A, a USB connection provides 500mA, so half as much.
Ok thanks people
Never tested never heard about but maybe a Y-cable (2 standard A plugs on one side, a micro USB A on the other side) is what you are looking for. It provides the 500 mA from two individual USB ports. However, you have to make sure that both ports can supply 500 mA individually and simultaneously! E.g. a passive USB hub will not work since all USB ports have to share the 500 mA from the host PC. You would need a powered USB hub.
Get a cheap USB cable extender.
Cut it open.
Short the 2 data wires (white and green)
Tape it back up.
Use this in-between your normal USB cable and your USB port.
Hey guys,
anyone know why issit that when I use a usb extension cable, altho only 0.8m, to connect to a usb 2 port hub, which is connected to a charger, the charging rate drops to trickle rate?
When I use the charging hub directly with the charger, charging rate was fine.
Is this due to the 0.8m resistance power drop along the extension cable, or what?
Would it be the same if I use a 90 degree usb male to female adapter?
Title
No
Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk
You need to use quality charger with 3.0A for that
a good/proper usb-c to usb-a cable is supposed to have a built in resistor to keep the device from pulling too much current through the older usb-a plug, which ofc wasn't designed with the capabilities of usb-c in mind.
therefore you should not be able to charge as fast with said cables, otherwise it wouldn't be too unlikely for your device or charger to get seriously damaged.
Broken303 said:
a good/proper usb-c to usb-a cable is supposed to have a built in resistor to keep the device from pulling too much current
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Click to collapse
To be more precise, the resistor doesn't keep the device from pulling too much current, it tells the device it is connected to a legacy cable and it should limit to .5, .9, or 1.5A. The device can still choose to pull more current if it has alternate means of figuring out the capabilities of the power source. It won't be using facilities within the USB C spec, but it will still work fine.
My bedside combo of a 2.4amp charging brick, anker powerline 10ft micro usb cable, and anker micro usb to usb c adapter gives me quick charging. The cable and adapter also allow data transfer and adb from my macbook pro.
sedracer said:
My bedside combo of a 2.4amp charging brick, anker powerline 10ft micro usb cable, and anker micro usb to usb c adapter gives me quick charging. The cable and adapter also allow data transfer and adb from my macbook pro.
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Click to collapse
In my experience 5x says "Charging rapidly" around 1.6A. Some of the legacy USB A -> USB C cables (either direct or through micro-usb adapter) can get around 1.6A and 5x will display "Charging rapidly" but this might not be the same rate as the stock USB C native charger with which the device can pull 2.6A for the lower battery ranges like 0-40% before the phone slows down to around 1.8A (and even slower later on in the cycle)
sfhub said:
In my experience 5x says "Charging rapidly" around 1.6A. Some of the legacy USB A -> USB C cables (either direct or through micro-usb adapter) can get around 1.6A and 5x will display "Charging rapidly" but this might not be the same rate as the stock USB C native charger with which the device can pull 2.6A for the lower battery ranges like 0-40% before the phone slows down to around 1.8A (and even slower later on in the cycle)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Discovered this after returning my 5x, picking up a 6p, and installing ampere. Still functional as a bedside charger but thanks for the help tho.
I have a strange issue after installed my Nexus 7 as a car stereo setup in my Subaru (see setup blow)... Whenever I turn up the volume, specifically the subwoofer, the USB system basically "resets" itself. As if, I unplugged and plugged it back in very quickly. At first, I thought my USB DAC was bad, because I plugged my audio feed directly into the tablet with no USB devices connected and all worked fine, but if I have my hub plugged in and then the reset happens (with audio from tablet still), the reset still happens and my OBD2 adapter (USB) brings up torque. I plugged that same USB DAC directly in, with no hub, to my OTG cable and used its audio feed, same issue. I thought maybe the voltage drop was too harsh and causing issues with my charger, so I ran a 120v usb charger setup (like a factory phone one) with an extension cord to my vehicle to isolate its own charge system to the tablet with the same results. OK, Maybe it is just vibration? (forgot to note: subwoofer is freeair, laying in the back seat... still testing, box isn't done yet, so the vibration level is next to nothing currently.) I grabbed my usb cable system with the volume low and shook the life out of it... never did the reset. Again, only when the subwoofer volume goes up and anything is plugged into the USB port on the OTG for external devices does this ever happen.
The Setup:
I have a dedicated 4A 12v-5v charger and it seems to charge the tablet fine. I have a 90 degree charge adapter in place. I also have an OTG Cable so I can hook up USB to my dedicated USB hub that I have a "backup" power cable plugged in (into the same 5v charger the tablet is).
Audio chain wise, I have plugged into my USB hub a USB DAC. After that, a noise blocker. From there, I wired in a potentiometer for volume control. From there, it goes to the 4 channel amp and the mono subwoofer amp (which also has a dedicated volume controller that came with the amp)
Power wise, I have a dedicated run of "oversized 4awg" (basically, 6 awg wire) from under the hood and no more than 5' of cable to a fused distribution block, then to the amps. I also have a ground wire of the same size that from come the battery ground that all amps connect to (as well as chassis, so about an overkill of a grounding system). The factory wiring harness was spliced into for connection to a relay that feed from the constant on factory wire, feeding the 5v usb charger and the remote turn on trigger for the 2 amps (so it shouldn't be overloaded at all).
Items (can't give links, so giving exact item name):
4A 12v-5v charger(Amazon - Icstation LM2596 DC to DC Voltage Regulator Dual USB Charger Step Down Power Supply Buck Converter 6-40V to 5V 3A DC 5.5X2.1mm Port )
90 Degree USB adapter(Amazon - Micro USB Extension Cable - Riipoo Left Angle Micro B USB Extension Cable, 25 CM, Micro USB 5 Pin Male to Female, Sync Charging and Data Transferring Cable for Samsung, HTC, Huawei, Sony and More)
OTG Cable (Amazon - DSYJ Micro USB Host OTG Cable with Micro USB Power for Samsung S7 S7 Edge, S6 S6+ S6 Edge, S5, S4 & Nexus 10 9 7 4 Player + ALL OTHERS )
USB Hub (Amazon - UNITEK Portable USB 3.0 4-Port Ultra Slim Data hub, with Micro USB 2.0 Power port and Built-in USB 3.0 Cable LED for iMac, MacBook, MacBook Pro, MacBook Air, Mac Mini, Chrombook, Surface Pro )
USB Dac (Amazon - Fiio K1 Portable Headphone Amplifier&DAC and USB DAC, Titanium)
Noise Blocker (Amazon - Mpow Ground Loop Noise Isolator for Car Audio / Home Stereo System with 3.5mm Audio Cable (Black))
Potentiometer: (Amazon - 10K Audio Taper Stereo Potentiometer 1/4 Shaft)
4 Channel Amp: (Amazon - Audiopipe 4 Channel Micro Amplifier 1000 Watts)
Subwoofer Amp: (Amazon - Audiopipe Class D Micro Amplifier 500 Watts)
I'm pretty stumped at this point. Any ideas?
Wiring can be a *****!
You could replace your right angle cable and OTG with this one item: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NSBVNCM/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
My USB3 hub works pretty good. but it's not at rock solid as the USB2 hub it replaced. Hubs can do some weird things when they don't initialize when the tablet want or thinks they should.
How does the subwoofer volume knob connect?
Does the the same happen when you turn the other "volume knob"?
How are the 2 amps connected to the DAC?
I'd guess offhand the DAC doesn't like whatever "feedback" it's getting through the noise suppressor from the potentometer.
What's the reason for it? You should be able to adjust your system volume through the tablet, especially if the sub amp has it's own gain.
fr4nk1yn,
-Just ordered that OTG cable. Was going to try and make my own, but if that one is proven, good enough for me.
-Agreed on hub, but I did try going direct to OTG cable, bypassing hub, and had the same issue.
-Subwoofer volume knob has its own RJ-11 phone cable to the amp. I took it apart, its using only 2 wires out of the 6 to the potentiometer inside, so pretty simple. Not sure how it works at the amp itself, but standard subwoofer volume knob on an amp, far as I can tell.
-Other knob can be cranked, seems fine, but more testing would need to be done. Soon as subwoofer knob is cranked with the volume know all the way up (or close), it triggers really quick.
-Does Dac > Potiometer > Amps (soldered wiring together, 4 channel amp has 2 specific connectors and sub has pair of RCA)
-Potentiometer gives a much better feel, very response in comparison. Having to find a volume "knob" on a tablet requires vision, taking away from the driving experience (and safety!). Don't like if the tablet has ANY delay in that control as well. I'm just old school, I guess.
Thanks for the help!