This is not something new and have been shown many times in YouTube. It is interesting to have for any phone with 3.5mm audio jack that can be easily done within a few minutes. I do not use my headset with my phone so this would be a nice hack to have around to listen with your friends on some local radio without consuming your data plan and phone battery.
Find a headset that you do not need. We only want the part with the 3.5mm audio jack. Just trim it down to about 20cm in length and fold it in half and tie a knot at the end. I tied a lasso knot at the end just so I can adjust the length of the receiver later on though it may not help much in reception quality.
Tested several length from 1 meter all the way to 20 centimetres and found not much difference in reception quality for a fact that you will be using your loudspeaker to listen to the FM radio. The same with whether to loop or not to loop the receiver but looping the receiver gives it a cleaner look while maintaining the same reception frequency.
Putting your phone too close to a human body greatly interferes with the FM signal. On the other hand, placing your phone on a metal table may enhance the FM reception.
Perhaps those who have knowledge in electronics can shed some light to optimize this simple hack further.
Have fun...
I didn't know. Works like a charm !! Thank You
Doesn't work for me. When I plug in the trimmed headset cable with the ear pieces cut off, the FM App keeps asking me to plug in a headset. Works OK when I plug in an untrimmed headset and switch to speaker in FM App menu.
Is there a further trick to getting this to work? Are you using the stock FM App?
I had the same problem myself, and it stems from the fact that smartphones will interrogate any headset you plug in to check if it is suitable. There are basic stereo headphones with three contacts on the jack plug (from the tip they are left, right and ground) and should work on any phone regardless. But there are two variants of headset (i.e. those with a microphone) that use four contacts, the difference being whether they connect the mic on the third or fourth contact.
As of 2016 most manufacturers have standardised on one system (left, right, mic then ground), but there are enough older phones and matching headsets out there that use the alternative pinout scheme. For example my old Sony Xperia used L-R-G-M (the same as say Blackberry), necessitating the use of an adapter for certain accessories. My latest Z5 however, has moved to the L-R-M-G pattern, which means I can no longer use my favourite old Sony headset anymore, not even as plain headphones, the Z5 just refused to talk to them.
That explains why a dumb wire might not work with a smartphone, because it is looking for a signal loop on all four (or three) contacts to try and figure out what's been plugged into it. The solution is to short out the wires to fool the phone into thinking there actually is something on the other end. Simply bare all of the wires at the cut end of the cable, burn off the fine lacquer or cotton that is used as an insulation, then twist the wires together to short them all to the ground. Better still, solder them together and cover with a bit of heat-shrink for a proper finish.
Found some pre-made antennas in ebay, you can try searching for 3.5mm antenna. They look pretty decent. I am also looking for compatible antenna, if any, that is compatible for steven303's new headphone jack.
Edit: did some research and found that the 3.5mm steven303 mentioned is called '3.5mm 4 conductor' or 'TRRS antenna 3.5mm', you can try searching for them in ebay or look for similar ones lying around with wires long enough to be loops around to be used as antenna for new phones with the new type of head jack.
I got two item I think can be suitable for this purpose; search with the following keyword in ebay;
1. 3.5mm 1/8'' Male To Male 4-Pole 3 Ring TRRS AV Audio Extension Cable 1.2M/4Feet
2. 4-Pole 3Ring TRRS 3.5mm (1/8'') Male To Female AV Extension Cable 3FT/1M Black
I have an additional issue. I use my phone's fm radio feature with an old pair of headphones for an antenna and listen via blue tooth headphones when I'm running or just working around the house, etc. My problem is that as the phone moves around in my pocket, the movement causes the phone to think the headphones came unplugged for a second and the radio turns off. When that happens I have to take the phone out and turn the radio back on. This happens often enough that it is a pain in the neck.
A separate but related issue. With some old, non functioning headphone cables the phone doesn't think there is anything plugged into it. I am lucky in that my phone gives me the option to "Play anyway through speaker or bluetooth". So even though it thinks there isn't anything plugged into it, I do, and I have good FM reception.
Here is what I want: I want to know what to do to my old headphone wire so that my phone doesn't think there is anything plugged into it when it is, in fact, plugged in. I hope that makes sense!
Related
Any adaptors that will allow me to use proper 3.5 inch headphone jack in place of the mini USB ones ( i dont like the in ear phones) checked ebay and couldnt see anything?
you want get one of these http://www.expansys.com/p.aspx?i=142090 - Mike
Ouch, that thing is both horribly badly designed and prohibitively expensive- it's going to stick out what looks like an inch by itself, most headphone plugs will add another inch on top of that- I need something that fits flush with the bottom of the phone (comes out at a right angle) AND supplies an input for the charger. One can only dream!
The orbit would make a great on-mains Wifi internet radio if such a gubbin existed- hook up some speakers, start TCPMP, sorted!
in which case if you don't like wires stop messing around and get a set of A2DP compatible headphones - the quality is very good, but far more costly than a cable addaptor - the choice is yours - Mike
Might have been worth while if I didn't use an iPod for all my portable audio needs- have you seen any A2DP compatible speakers around?
Looks like there are hacks out there, but no official products, the combination really would just turn the Orbit into an incredibly expensive Wifi radio! But where's the fun in just going out and buying a proper one!
Have a look at the products made by Parrot there are a few Bluetooth audio add on boxes, I fail to see the relevance to WiFi?? as the A2DP profile is Bluetooth - it even works on the T-Mobile MDA-CIII which has no WiFi - Mike
I say wifi radio because I listen to internet radio stations around the house using the Orbit, and the ol' tinternet comes via the wifi doohickey!
A2DP is, of course, a bluetooth profile and would be the method over which I get decent sounding audio from the Orbit to some speakers whilst still having the Orbit plugged into mains so the battery doesn't get sucked dry... that said I think the Orbit will last a good few hours streaming internet radio, although I have yet to put that to the test.
My other solution would be, as mentioned above, an adaptor that allows both the charger AND headset to be plugged in- I can't see this as being technically impossible.
With a brief cursory investigation I have discovered, I think, that the headset uses a proprietary 6-pin connection on the opposite side of the mini-usb connector. The headphones do not use the 4-pin standard mini-usb connector on the other side, but a connector that uses both should be reasonably simple to produce. Ergo it should be childs play for a third party to produce an Artemis dock that contains not only a connection to USB but a standard 3.5mm amplified microphone socket alongside a standard 3.5mm amplified stero audio jack... not to mention a button on the front of the dock for picking up calls and a volume slider if you really wanted them.
Call me crazy, but I want one of those!
You could try this
http://www.expansys.com/htc/p_htc_item.aspx?i=145066
Might do the trick even if it is a bit long
Rich
Dear lord! You've made my day! Hmmm, a little jiggery pokery and I might even be able to incorporate that into a dock but it'll be fantastic for charging and listening to net radio at work- takes that little extra load off my desktop PC.
Cheers!
Glad I could help
richiev4 said:
You could try this
http://www.expansys.com/htc/p_htc_item.aspx?i=145066
Might do the trick even if it is a bit long
Rich
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi,
Does anyone know if the above would work with a set of mini stereo speakers with a 3.5mm headphone jack (like the walkman speakers i used to have, back in the day...) to listen to the FM radio while charging the phone from mains? Or would you still need the headphones plugged into get any FM reception?
Daft question maybe, but I wondered whether the device would just use the speaker wires as an antenna instead of the headphone wires?
It will work fine, I am going to use mine to connect my orbit to my home stereo and charge it at the same time.
Rich
2.5mm 3 pole jack plug
Hi,
Anybody know of an Artemis mini usb to 2.5mm 3 pole jack plug adapter which allows the connection to deliver audio and microphone capability ?
I would like to connet my Artemis/Orbit to the Autocom intercom system on my motorcycle . This uses a lead with a 2.5mm jack plug at the phone end and a 3.5mm jack at the Autocom system end. Both are 3 pole.
Thanks
P.S. hope you don't mind me jumping in your postings
http://www.expansys.com/s.aspx
try doing a search for "2.5mm"
A very good Items for the Artemis on EbaY :
look :
http://cgi.ebay.fr/FOR-ORANGE-SPV-E...ryZ14419QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
2.5mm 3 pole jack plug adatper
I think I've found exactly what I'm looking for at:
http://igonemobile.com/products/html/61315310.html
I've got one on order and I'll let you know if it works.
cegmawr said:
Hi,
Anybody know of an Artemis mini usb to 2.5mm 3 pole jack plug adapter which allows the connection to deliver audio and microphone capability ?
I would like to connet my Artemis/Orbit to the Autocom intercom system on my motorcycle . This uses a lead with a 2.5mm jack plug at the phone end and a 3.5mm jack at the Autocom system end. Both are 3 pole.
Thanks
P.S. hope you don't mind me jumping in your postings
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Is this so you can listen to music from the Orbit? I've had difficulty on my bike with this...music cuts out and wont restart after phone call is over. In the end, I bought the Autocom bluetooth dongle and now bluetooth the Orbit to the bike. I get phone calls and GPS just fine, but I use a wired iPod for music.
cegmawr said:
I think I've found exactly what I'm looking for at:
http://igonemobile.com/products/html/61315310.html
I've got one on order and I'll let you know if it works.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Does this support the Artemis? It isn't in the list....
There was a posting for the mini USB PinOut some Time ago. Look in the wiki Section to find it. Here is what they showed up with.
Maybe This will Help someone to build their own Adapter or whatsoever.
Greetings
Jabami
so what was the general concensus with using Autocom? Did the 2.5mm jack work?
I want to avoid using the bluetooth option on autocom, since I might just as well go for a Scala bluetooth headset instead if the jack doesnt work...
I was listening to music in my car today with my Sprint TP2 hooked up via the 3.5mm audio jack. When I disconnected the phone from the jack, the phone remained in 'headphone mode'. I knew it was in headphone mode still because it displays the little headphone icon on top and I could not hear any audio unless I reconnected the 3.5mm jack. So basically, I can't call anybody from my phone right now unless I hook it up to some speakers via the 3.5mm jack. That or use my BT headset.
Things I have tried to fix the phone;
- Unplugged and replugged in the 3.5mm stereo jack numerous times.*
- Soft reset
- Removed battery for 30 seconds and restarted
- Connected BlueTooth stereo headset and disconnected
* Extra weirdness; Gives me a voice commander error when I reconnect the jack. Voice Commander is not even enabled.
Nothing worked. So I just did a backup of my phone and I'm going to attempt a hard reset. We'll see if that fixes it.
Update: Right after I posted this thread, I tried plugging in several different devices with 3.5mm jacks and the headphone icon disappeared. However, I still did not have any audio. So I did a soft reset and surprise surprise... audio is back!!!
Anybody else encounter this bug? I'm not sure if it's a software or hardware bug, but it's definitely a bug.
guys, do you mean you have already have the 3.5mm specification tp2 ?
i didn't see it yet..
sounds like a hardware issue? especially if the soft reset did not resolve the issue...
czbenson said:
guys, do you mean you have already have the 3.5mm specification tp2 ?
i didn't see it yet..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sprint and Verizon versions of TP2 have a integrated 3.5mm jack.
I just had the same problem being stuck in headset mode
I tried a soft reset with no luck so I was pretty sure it was something physically wrong. Instead of plugging my headset all the way back in and taking it out, I used the tip of the plug (like a Q-tip, 1/4 of the way in) to see if there were any sensors or metal still depressed and after a few light sweeps, the headset mode icon disappeared. Keeping my fingers crossed, I didn't use the 3.5mm jack for the rest of the night and I was able to use my headset and removed it without a problem this morning.
Ultimately this is most likely a physical issue, but I'd rather not send my phone in for a replacement (even though this would probably qualify as a manufacturer defect). Hope this helps if anyone experiences this in the future.
sniczz said:
I tried a soft reset with no luck so I was pretty sure it was something physically wrong. Instead of plugging my headset all the way back in and taking it out, I used the tip of the plug (like a Q-tip, 1/4 of the way in) to see if there were any sensors or metal still depressed and after a few light sweeps, the headset mode icon disappeared. Keeping my fingers crossed, I didn't use the 3.5mm jack for the rest of the night and I was able to use my headset and removed it without a problem this morning.
Ultimately this is most likely a physical issue, but I'd rather not send my phone in for a replacement (even though this would probably qualify as a manufacturer defect). Hope this helps if anyone experiences this in the future.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It is a hardware issue and is common to most 3.5mm jacks. I had also experienced this last year with my Treo Pro and since I really wanted to know the problem, I opened up my phone and voided all warranties. Inside the 3.5mm jack there's a lever type copper that bends to make contact with another copper metal, some kind of switch that's supposed to connect and disconnect the contact between these 2 metal pieces whenever a head 3.5mm plug is inserted.
What happened is when you disconnected the plug, the metal that's supposed to bend back to it's original position never did. That's why it's permanently stucked in headset mode because the phone thinks the plug is still inside. This probably happens due to age and possibly has something to do with moisture and rust, not to mention that copper is highly malleable.
Sad to say that until now this technology hasn't changed and is still being widely used. Hopefully someone will give this issue a real solution.
I had this problem recently and took a dry q tip and rubbed it back and forth across the little pin on the bottom of the headphone jack until it cleared up the problem.
Does anyone know if a USB to 3.5mm headphone jack adapter works on the CDMA tp2? I'd really like to use regular headphones but don't want to jeopardize getting my phone stuck in headphone mode.
Drache said:
I had this problem recently and took a dry q tip and rubbed it back and forth across the little pin on the bottom of the headphone jack until it cleared up the problem.
Does anyone know if a USB to 3.5mm headphone jack adapter works on the CDMA tp2? I'd really like to use regular headphones but don't want to jeopardize getting my phone stuck in headphone mode.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, the USB headphone adapter works on the CDMA versions. If you plug in a second headphone set to the other open port, which ever one was connected lastly will be the one to have sound.
Fixed the problem!
I had to disassemble the phone, voiding the already expired warranty and solder the contacts together on the audio jack. I can't use a 3.5 mm jack anymore, but I can at least use the phone now without always using a bluetooth. I'll get a usb adapter for when I want to listen to music.
Here is a picture of the contacts I soldered. I used a 20 w soldering iron, I wouldn't use anything larger.
Drache said:
I had to disassemble the phone, voiding the already expired warranty and solder the contacts together on the audio jack. I can't use a 3.5 mm jack anymore, but I can at least use the phone now without always using a bluetooth. I'll get a usb adapter for when I want to listen to music.
Here is a picture of the contacts I soldered. I used a 20 w soldering iron, I wouldn't use anything larger.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i would hate to do this on my vibrant lol, media sound recently gave out on me after unplugging the headphone. this sucks. id look around for replacement parts..til then.. gotta get busy with the q tips til i get it to work.
I want to take an old set of headphones and cut the headphones off and make an fm antenna out of the cord and plug. Once I plug the cord in however, will it still let me use my bluetooth stero headset to listen the the radio?
ElAguila said:
I want to take an old set of headphones and cut the headphones off and make an fm antenna out of the cord and plug. Once I plug the cord in however, will it still let me use my bluetooth stero headset to listen the the radio?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm not positive, but I believe that when you plug into the headphone jack, it overrides the option for bluetooth.
Not to mention, if you just cut the headphones off, there won't be a complete circuit. If the phone doesn't detect a circuit, it may not even recognize that the wire is plugged in. If you cut the phones off and twist the wires together, it would make a circuit, but MAY cause a short, potentially damaging the phone. I know the signal to the headphones is a very low voltage, but with no resistance at all, it may be enough to do damage.
thenewguy821 said:
I'm not positive, but I believe that when you plug into the headphone jack, it overrides the option for bluetooth.
Not to mention, if you just cut the headphones off, there won't be a complete circuit. If the phone doesn't detect a circuit, it may not even recognize that the wire is plugged in. If you cut the phones off and twist the wires together, it would make a circuit, but MAY cause a short, potentially damaging the phone. I know the signal to the headphones is a very low voltage, but with no resistance at all, it may be enough to do damage.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm not sure that's right. If I remember correctly, FM only requires a dipole antenna (single wire, ie a car antenna), and AM requires a loop antenna. Also, I know that none of my headphones create a closed circuit, that's what the little black bars are on the plugs, they separate the different connections from touching, hence you get stereo sound.
muzz3256 said:
I'm not sure that's right. If I remember correctly, FM only requires a dipole antenna (single wire, ie a car antenna), and AM requires a loop antenna. Also, I know that none of my headphones create a closed circuit, that's what the little black bars are on the plugs, they separate the different connections from touching, hence you get stereo sound.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There are 3 contacts (The metal part between the black separations) on a Headphone plug. +Left, +Right, and -Common (Used both L and R). A Stereo Phone headset has 4 contact points ( +L, +R, Mic and -Common) The Speaker in a headphone acts as a resistor in the complete circuit from the +L to -Common and +R to -Common. While it is true that FM doesn't require a loop antenna, the Phone, which requires a headset to be used as an antenna will not recognize there is a headphone connected if there is no circuit. (If there is no Speaker between the positive and negative lead of the headphone wire)
To add to this, if you use a regular headphone, rather than a phone headset, it doesn't make a very good connection, and has very limited, if any FM reception.
With regard to the bluetooth question, all you need to do is connect to bt after you plug in the headphones. I believe the evo just outputs to the last connected item.
Why bother cutting up the headphones and then not being sure if it works. Just leave the headphones plugged on as is and connect to you bt.
Sent from my PC36100 using XDA App
Thanks to all for you input. I was going to remove the headset because I wanted to make an antenna that I could carry in my pocket when walking without the bulky headphones sticking out of my pocket.
ElAguila said:
Thanks to all for you input. I was going to remove the headset because I wanted to make an antenna that I could carry in my pocket when walking without the bulky headphones sticking out of my pocket.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Pick up a cheap set of earbuds. They are small enough they shouldn't be too bulky in your pocket.
Can anyone recommend a good 3.5mm Bluetooth adapter for my car.
Sent from my SPH-D710 using xda premium
I got the scosche by adapter from walmart for $36. It plugs into the 3.5mm jack and works well for audio streaming. Calls not so much.
Dicho por el E4GT de Latinmaxima con Tapatalk.
All bluetooth adapters suck. I've tried 10+ different A2DP capable adapters over the course of 2 years and all simply ruin the high frequencies. Nothing beats hardwired Aux cable if you actually care about sound quality...
Google "tunelink"
A little pricey, but worth it for the audio quality. Plus, it is only for streaming audio.... No speakerphone function...
pojieps said:
Google "tunelink"
A little pricey, but worth it for the audio quality. Plus, it is only for streaming audio.... No speakerphone function...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry, but this is just a gimmick for those without knowledge in my opinion. Other than the bluetooth function, which there are a million of those out there, a person could just plug a male to male 3.5mm stereo plug into the phone to the AUX port in the car if its available.
chrisnosleep said:
Sorry, but this is just a gimmick for those without knowledge in my opinion. Other than the bluetooth function, which there are a million of those out there, a person could just plug a male to male 3.5mm stereo plug into the phone to the AUX port in the car if its available.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I actually own it... I get WAY better quality over the bluetooth connection than I do with a direct line in. The headphone jack on your phone is designed for just that... headphones. Lining in directly reflects this. Wish there was a way for you to give it a try. I am kind of a sound snob, and I love mine. Plus, all you have to do is get in the car and once the bluetooth pairing happens, the app will open your music app and start playing.
Not trying to push this thing on ya. Just wanted you to know, I own one, and I am not "without knowledge"
Motorola Rokr T505 is small, does well with calls and music playing through blank FM stations to your car stereo. Best $40 investments plus NO CHORDS!
I had this one and used it with my EVO. Worked pretty well.
http://www.amazon.com/Miccus-BluBridge-Mini-Jack-Bluetooth-Bluetooth-Enabled/dp/B0038MA11U
I tried an AUX cable on three different phones. There was always a high pitched whine through my speakers. I started using a Samsung HM3500 plugged into the same AUX jack and got better quality music with no whine. Plus, no extra cable running through my car to the dash mount.
Did you guys all just have a car stereo that had bluetooth built in? I have an '05 Bonneville GXP but the stereo has neither a aux port or bluetooth capability...Major sad face...I really don't want to replace the stereo either because it's nice and fits the look of the car - would look stupid with anything other than a big touchscreen replacement and that's just too expensive.
Any suggestions?
You could get an FM modulator that would allow you to add a line in via your radio antenna, but they don't have great sound quality.
DutchDogg54 said:
Did you guys all just have a car stereo that had bluetooth built in? I have an '05 Bonneville GXP but the stereo has neither a aux port or bluetooth capability...Major sad face...I really don't want to replace the stereo either because it's nice and fits the look of the car - would look stupid with anything other than a big touchscreen replacement and that's just too expensive.
Any suggestions?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, just swap out the headunit for one with bluetooth build-in. Just make sure it supports A2DP (music streaming over bluetooth). I got mine from Amazon for $140, Sony MEX-BT3900U, and it been simply great. A2DP for bluetooth streaming, Aux port for wired 3.5mm audio, and it has USB port for charging the phone.
High Pitched whine is a POWER ISSUE
unplug your phone and it should go away. IE change chargers.
nerys71 said:
High Pitched whine is a POWER ISSUE
unplug your phone and it should go away. IE change chargers.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not all the time. My car had that problem and there were many other factors at fault.
Here are few things to look out for:
If your car has an amplifier in the rear, make sure that the headunit-to-amplifier audio cables are at least few feet away from power wires (aka, run them on the opposite side of the car than the power cables).
Make sure that the headunit is properly grounded. If that still doesn't help, run both headunit's + and - power wires directly to the car battery.
If problem still persists, repeat #2 but for the amp (if you have it).
If all above failed, it's time to invest in a better headunit. Your old one sucks and can't suppress the noise generated by the chassy/alternator.
I had crappy stock headunit and weaka$$ stock amp that would always make the static and constant whine problems. Ended up completely redoing the car audio system. Now, even with the headunit not grounded audio quality is PERFECT.
Here are the prices for my audio remodeling, all items bought brand new:
- Sony MEX-BT3900U. Headunit with CD, Aux, Handsfree Phone, Bluetooth A2DP audio, USB ($140)
- Hifonics ZXi80.4. Amplifier with 4 channels, 80W RMS per channel ($134)
- Alpine SPS-600 speakers. 6.5" 2-way speakers, 80W RMS ($50 ea)
- Stinger Pro 3 Series Snake. 6-channel, 20 feet RCA snake that goes from headunit to the amp in the rear ($35)
- 2x22' 8AWG battery-to-amp power wire
- 2x18' 12AWG amp-to-headunit power wire
- 4x18' 16AWG amp-to-front speaker wires
- 4x2' 16AWG amp-to-rear speaker wires
- 30A fuse in the engine bay
I ran the power cables on the left side of the car and ran the RCA snake on the right. everything was exactly $525 and I did all work myself (it's quite easy if you ask). now the sound quality in my used-to-be-audio-hell car is dam near perfect now and has absolutely no noise/static at all. you can jack the volume up crazy high without any distortions for like 80Hz+. 80Hz and below can be a problem when maxing out the volume as the speakers are only 6.5" and weren't meant to deliver bass. don't get me wrong, they do make nice bass but just don't handle it too well when playing it very loud.
after years of running this setup I'd say this was one of the best investments i've ever made. my car is built for drifting so it is setup very stiff and shakes/jumps like crazy when dailying (300mi/week) and when i do take it out for a spin the amount of stress it sees it crazy. after all this time you'd think at least some wires would come loose but nope, everything is still running perfect.
so yeah, if you actually care about sound quality in your car and would like it to last, just redo it from scratch. it's fun and is totally worth it
Not trying to pick a fight but lets be clear here
If your car has an amplifier in the rear, make sure that the headunit-to-amplifier audio cables are at least few feet away from power wires (aka, run them on the opposite side of the car than the power cables).
Which is a power issue
Make sure that the headunit is properly grounded.
Which is a power issue
If that still doesn't help, run both headunit's + and - power wires directly to the car battery.
Which is a power issue
If problem still persists, repeat #2 but for the amp (if you have it).
If all above failed, it's time to invest in a better headunit.
Which is a power issue
Your old one sucks and can't suppress the noise generated by the chassy/alternator.
Which is a power issue
See what I mean?
Cars make a lot of "NOISE" this noise is a power issue. it comes from your alternator and your coil and your spark plugs IE "POWER ISSUES"
if you have bad grounds or are lacking noise suppression (cheap equipment old equipment etc.. etc..) or an older car making a TON of extra noise etc.. etc..
Power inverters (especially cheap ones) are notorious for "dirty power" that lets in noise.
when I power my phone off the USB on the cheap inverter's USB port I get big time whine noises painful even.
use the USB port in the radio and I get no noise (but then it tries to "READ" the phone instead of just charging it and won't let me use aux hehe
Sometimes you can get a coil thing to add to power to reduce this noise but usually its just cheap equipment ($7 power inverter
plug a 110v to usb adapter into same inverter and no noise. The 110v adapter isolates and prevents the noise leakage.
nerys71 said:
Not trying to pick a fight but lets be clear here
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
haha time to clear up a misunderstanding here. my reply was referring to the "unplug your phone and it should go away" statement and thus assuming that you, by saying "its a power issue", were referring only to the inverter that was powering the phone at times getting a better quality inverter (aka, one that has capacitor or capacitor-pack to smooth out the voltage spikes and noise) is sufficient and at times it is not. I've experienced both. it's also worth mentioning that after redoing my sound system even the crappiest of crap inverters works just fine
frifox said:
Yes, just swap out the headunit for one with bluetooth build-in. Just make sure it supports A2DP (music streaming over bluetooth). I got mine from Amazon for $140, Sony MEX-BT3900U, and it been simply great. A2DP for bluetooth streaming, Aux port for wired 3.5mm audio, and it has USB port for charging the phone.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah, I've looked into those kind of replacements...plenty out there for reasonable prices but they would completely mar the aesthetic value of the nice interior of my Bonny. That's why I was saying that only the touchscreens that would fill the whole double (might be 1.5) din stereo spot in my car would do.
Thanks, both of you guys, for your responses...guess I'm stuck waiting till I get a much newer car
I'm not saying that you're wrong about it being a power issue, but the BT headset I mentioned came with an adapter for an AUX jack and that solved my problem. So, either solution works.
the issue is the radio is connected to the same "power source" that your "phone" is now connected to.
so if any component in that chain does not control the power noise (that is what the noise is coming from your power system)
you INJECT that noise into your audio stream the moment you "link" the devices together (power not audio)
this is why if you use a seperate battery pack to charge the phone you will not get this noise. your battery pack is "isolated" from the car's power system literally physically.
I am only talking about the typical whine pop crackle high pitched noise you get the moment you plug in your charger. IE clear no noise plug in chargers Head burster sounds start coming out of your speakers
that noise is a "power issue" you can't eliminate the power issues (except by eliminating your alternator??) but you can filter it. some devices (chargers) do this better than others
the BT unit works because you "broke" the chain. (no audio cable going from the PHONE to the RADIO)
Again, I'm not denying what you're saying. You're absolutely correct. However, OP was asking for the best BT unit to plug into the jack, not how to solve the issues with cables and power sources. I was simply providing my opinion and experience along the lines of what he was asking for.
So, I've had this idea for a while, and I managed to build a semi-working prototype of them. Basically, I'm looking to convert them into something that can be used both wired and wireless via bluetooth. I know they have a wireless version of these headphones, but I already have the wired ones, and I prefer the look of the wired ones more. My prototype consisted of some cheap BT earbuds that I took the electronics out of and soldered wires from where the earbud speakers were soldered to where the 3.5mm jack was connected (i know that they probably shouldn't be directly on them and should probably have a diode or something to prevent signal from going out the port, but I'm never going to be using the wired and wireless at the same time so not much point, plus, it was a prototype). Anyway, in my attempts to turn it into a more permanent solution inside the cups, I managed to fry the board for the cheap BT earbuds. So the project went on the shelf (figuratively) for a while. Now, I'd like to actually get this done as I'm getting an Android Wear 2.0 device soon. Suggestions on a micro form factor bluetooth audio receiver? Also, another thing is that the headphones themselves use a 1.5V AA battery to power the bass stuff, would it be possible to use the existing battery compartment for powering the chip, perhaps using a similar size Li-Po battery that is 5 volts that is run in series to both the headphones board (down volted to 1.5v) and the BT chip? I'm also looking for some advice on how to control the power to the BT chip without having to open the things up as it requires a screwdriver. button poking through the side of the cup? or a switch under an earmuff? Basically looking for part idea and other suggestions.
It's nice to see someone skullcandys as most headphones that get nodded are the expensive kinds, I like the style and simplicity of Skullcandy so I'll chime in.
Bluetooth: as for the circuitry I haven't been able to find a standalone board for purchase, you could try one of those cheap "make any headphones Bluetooth" adapter and re use the guts. Also I've seen a few that use 16ohm drivers instead of 32 so that could cause issues
Charging: since you're using the crusher amplified one, thats gonna be tricky. From the Bluetooth headphones I've torn apart, they usually have a charging ic that matches the battery's may(i.e. 800mah or so). You might have to make another circuit like a micro USB to a multi battery charger ic but that also poses it's own issues with the bass circuit and the Bluetooth board circuit so it would be a gamble. Kinda makes it seem like you'll need a Bluetooth headphones, with built in haptic feedback as a donor to work.
Switches/buttons: you'll probably have to get crafty with a Dremel and some switches. I've though of doing this and Drew up some plans where I just mount buttons through the plastic and wire it to whatever it needs connection to. I haven't found adequate buttons for this though.
Honestly I hate to say it as I love a good project where you get what you want from making it. But the crusher wireless sound like a better fool proof option.