Hey Guys, I've seen people's color settings all over for the Galaxy Nexus, we have different tools, different kernels and different ways to improve the Purple/Red/Tint Issues with Franco's App, Morfics, as well as free tools like Trickster Mod's App and the new CM10 Color Multiplier, Color Gamma Tuning, and Color Hack presets.
Goal: Have all this information in one place
I have created a Publicly Accessible Spreadsheet on Google Docs that you can edit without sign-in, please either
A:Edit the doc with your color settings or
B: Reply to this thread with your color settings for each different kernel and app and one of us in the thread may update the spreadsheet. Also only reply if you can provide useful information regarding these issues.
I know allot of people are stuck with their Galaxy Nexus, so lets all work together on sharing our settings and tips/tricks regarding this since samsung still has not fixed the issue and still sends out devices with this issue. I've heard people go through 5-6 replacements, ouch.
Checkout the format of the spreadsheet, and feel free to improve it.
Collaborative Nexus Color Spreadsheet here
Other useful Screen Color Links:
[Tips] Screen Color Calibration for the Galaxy Nexus
Galaxy Nexus - Purple Tint + Grainy Screen
Trickster MOD app
Color Calibration. Before / after
Galaxy Nexus grainy and vertical banding screen!
Edit: If requested, I could make a Google Docs form to auto populate the spreadsheet
Anyone know of a way to disable the screen dimming on the notification drop down? When it dims on low brightness the notification and background is purple.
No clue how to get rid of the screen dimming on drop down. You should watch out when running the higher contrast numbers, burn in is a spooky thing. I'm glad that a list of some type is being made (suggestion gathering has been abysmal), although every screen has it's own inherent faults and oddities, it will be very interesting to see the results. Thanks man.
Good idea. I added a couple.
Thanks for this list. I've been messing around with color settings for awhile now with no success. I always felt like the screen had a tinge of green that I couldn't get rid of.
TyroneLT said:
Thanks for this list. I've been messing around with color settings for awhile now with no success. I always felt like the screen had a tinge of green that I couldn't get rid of.
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Adding some red should help that. My problem is that there are a couple "hot spots" of yellowing and magenta that I have to strike a balance between. Went through a few different settings but posted my current to the spreadsheet.
Previous:
200,215,280
-2,0,15
-23
And I added a Gradient Fix column since I find using that mod changes what you need for color settings to make things nice.
Also worth mentioning that in some apps the OMAP Gamma runs on a 1.0-2.0 scale (by 0.2s) and in others 5-10 (by 1s), these are equivalent however.
Finally a useful idea for a thread.
Just wondering, isn't every screen at least slightly different? I'm pretty sure that's why there's color calibration, or the screens would come calibrated perfectly.
8mileroad said:
Just wondering, isn't every screen at least slightly different? I'm pretty sure that's why there's color calibration, or the screens would come calibrated perfectly.
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Click to collapse
There isn't a HUGE variation in the differences. Each screen isn't a special snowflake. There's a relatively small, finite number of different screen settings that work for all screens.
This will give people a narrowed-down list to try first instead of spending hours experimenting.
Im finding my self having OCD in getting this perfect lol, just added another setting that I found pretty nice but there is still slight purple at 1-5percent brightness. Thanks guys for adding your settings to the spreadsheet, I think with enough data we can average the setting variables and find a good base setting
For me color is only an issue below 20 percent and sometimes lower depending on gamma settings, im finding that gamma and contrast seem to help more than the actual color multipliers
Edit: Just updated the spreadsheet with more settings others have shared on XDA, credits go to isinisterx, amit_sen
ÜBER™, for sharing their settings in other threads
This worked wonders for me
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"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
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"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
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Really, the only purpose to document all these settings is for statistics. To show that more Nexus screens come with x-color tint than y-color. Even then, you're trusting people to know what white and gray are supposed to look like. I've seen how most people set up their TVs - they're usually wrong.
There isn't a HUGE variation in the differences. Each screen isn't a special snowflake. There's a relatively small, finite number of different screen settings that work for all screens.
This will give people a narrowed-down list to try first instead of spending hours experimenting.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It doesn't take hours, it's a pretty easy process:
Color multiplier is white balance, which also affects overall color tone. Get two things: a blank white screen, and a pure black screen with white text (settings is easy if you have gradient disabled.) Use these, and go with what you think white should be, unless you have a good reference or a calibration tool. For example, I dropped red/green because my screen was too yellow stock. I then found that I could still almost see the individual red pixels sticking out of text (best way I can describe it), and looking at my home screen felt a little too "pink", dropped red a little more until it looked fine.
Next is gamma/offset/whatever which is the adjustment of everything in between white and black. This one can be trickier because grays can easily look too red/brown, too blue, too yellow, etc. and on these screens the gray balance will change depending on brightness. Yes, sometimes drastically (see: purple tint) This can be a pain if you need to lower greens because green can't be lowered (the screen goes nuts), and the colors don't scale the same, so if you increase red and blue by the same amount one will probably be stronger than the other.
Just from my experiences. And yes, each screen is a special snowflake. Most people are just happy enough with canned settings.
The only thing I would add to that is if you are going to eyeball the whites and grays without a reference, it's better to do it in soft, indirect daylight instead of artificial light, which has various color tints depending on what kind of bulb you use.
vkamicht said:
Really, the only purpose to document all these settings is for statistics. To show that more Nexus screens come with x-color tint than y-color. Even then, you're trusting people to know what white and gray are supposed to look like. I've seen how most people set up their TVs - they're usually wrong.
It doesn't take hours, it's a pretty easy process:
Color multiplier is white balance, which also affects overall color tone. Get two things: a blank white screen, and a pure black screen with white text (settings is easy if you have gradient disabled.) Use these, and go with what you think white should be, unless you have a good reference or a calibration tool. For example, I dropped red/green because my screen was too yellow stock. I then found that I could still almost see the individual red pixels sticking out of text (best way I can describe it), and looking at my home screen felt a little too "pink", dropped red a little more until it looked fine.
Next is gamma/offset/whatever which is the adjustment of everything in between white and black. This one can be trickier because grays can easily look too red/brown, too blue, too yellow, etc. and on these screens the gray balance will change depending on brightness. Yes, sometimes drastically (see: purple tint) This can be a pain if you need to lower greens because green can't be lowered (the screen goes nuts), and the colors don't scale the same, so if you increase red and blue by the same amount one will probably be stronger than the other.
Just from my experiences. And yes, each screen is a special snowflake. Most people are just happy enough with canned settings.
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Click to collapse
What brightness setting should we test this on? My colors look fine it's just it's a bit dark on auto brightness which is at like 1/3 brightness
Mandated from Stannis Baratheon
exzacklyright said:
What brightness setting should we test this on? My colors look fine it's just it's a bit dark on auto brightness which is at like 1/3 brightness
Mandated from Stannis Baratheon
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I usually calibrate at maximum brightness, then double check if the settings are ok at 50% and minimum brightness.
You probably should do this on the brightness setting you're most regularly at.
I personally did my calibration at 50% as I almost never go above that (unless in direct sunlight.) I read in another calibration thread someone mentioned that with default settings 50% brightness is quite close to a "standard" brightness level (measured in IRE) - so I'm going on someone's word, but it looks good and natural to me.
harveydent said:
You probably should do this on the brightness setting you're most regularly at.
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Click to collapse
Agreed with this, it'll be different for everyone
I think mine looks better setting the trinity contrast to 10...but then again when i add a widget i can't even read anything.
Mandated from Stannis Baratheon
exzacklyright said:
I think mine looks better setting the trinity contrast to 10...but then again when i add a widget i can't even read anything.
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Click to collapse
Screenshots don't really prove anything.. It's all in how your screen looks in person after compensating for the "special snowflakiness"
Take a photo if you want to show us how different settings are affecting things.
osm0sis said:
Screenshots don't really prove anything.. It's all in how your screen looks in person after compensating for the "special snowflakiness"
Take a photo if you want to show us how different settings are affecting things.
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Click to collapse
I just noticed... haha true.. But that's the issue. I can't read the black on the gray.... while looking at my phone. What should I adjust?
Still can't figure out what to change. The colors are fine but the darks are dark and hard to compare them to against each other
Edit: I'm stupid! I was using the lowest omap gamma..should be 1 right :/
Mandated from Stannis Baratheon
Currently using Paranoid 1.9.4 which is based on CM10 early preview , so comes with CM 10 default kernel : 3.0.36 .
Color multiplier : 1 , 1, 1
Gamma : RGB : 9:0:16 with DSS gamma : off
No trinity contrast applied ,
Related
Hi,
this is a topic I want to start in order to help the development of more intelligent brightness control for Galaxy S (probably regional variants of it will benefit as well).
It began with my PM to some of kernel DEVs that I've noticed brownish color instead of black on ONE brightness setting. My idea was to omit that one brightness level.
Overnight, I already got two responses. One that it should be no problem and one that the link I sent might lead to fixing the problem I mentioned as well (color correction).
The other, connected to brightness topic, thing I've noticed is that auto control of it is retarded. First, it's too jumpy without any reason (like let's say change of outside brightness) and second it likes to set level that burn the eyeballs. I've never had such problem on my CM Hero.
Here's my original PM:
embrion said:
Hi,
I'm PMing you as the most popular kernels coders.
Long story short: SAMOLED screens like to make black or similar colors brownish at low brightness. I've (and not only me) noticed that there's a step just about min. when it starts to be brown and a next step after that it magically stops. The idea is to omit this step at all or just in auto brightness table. I believe It's doable by using those methods.
The original story begins here from the first half of #522 post
Like I've wrote there, this problem exists in all kernels and all color temperature variants of them + stock one.
If you're interested, please respond me. If not, also respond as I'd like to know if I can count on anything.
Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Some links that might help:
[SOLUTION] Fix for minimum screen brightness! [10/13 - adjustable]
Kernel makers, please add the ability to adjust auto brightness.
[APP] Different auto-brightness
Gizmodo - Why iPhone 4 and Android Brightness Controls Are Effectively Useless
My random thoughts:
One option would be fooling the sensor that it is less bright than it is
Another, more proper I believe, it to modify some brightness tables to leave extreme brightness levels to extreme outside light situations. This one would also help skipping this "brown" brightness level as like I said, it looks to be only one level
Color correction MIGHT fix "brown" problem too, but I'm not sure as COLD and WARM kernel variants didn't changed this brown problem (unless colors are optimized only for some of the levels like I've read at VOODOO site)
CM 6 already has such brightness level options in Settings-> CM Settings - > User interface -> Automatic backlight -> Use custom(just checked on my Hero) so probably lot of code can be reused (as I believe there is CM for Galaxy S)
Kernel DEVs, fell free to hijack this thread. It is to help your cooperation (unless each one of you prefer to solve problems on they own ) Btw. don't be offended if I didn't included you in the DEVs list I've sent my PM. It was late and I PMed only those I've noticed that they kernels I've used. All of you are more than welcomed.
Other, please don't post "I cannot see any brown", and those one that can see it, please stop posting about info after first 5 people do
I'm so happy to read this threat. I had posted questions about display and auto brightness a couple of months ago in the questions section but never received any credible responses.
My problem is that when I turn auto brightness on, not only does my display get exceptionally dark, but it becomes very noticeable that e.g. grey turns more brownish. Comparing my display to yet another Galaxy S confirmed my suspicions that this is not they way the display is supposed operate, i.e. compared to mine the other Galaxy stayed a lot brighter in equal lighting conditions and the grey remained grey (instead of brownish-grey like mine). I compared the grey tones of the numeric buttons in the stock Dialer APP to conclude this.
I suspectED the light sensor might be defective, but I have run the test menu on a couple of Galaxies (*#0589#) and the units always display the same values when put next to mine.
You might see why this is bugging me so much, it seems my galaxy's display is not using less battery even though I get less brightness than the others on auto brightness. Unless I manually bump up the brightness to full the colors on my screen look dull (grey turns Brownish, and over all it looks not as alive) as compared to other units. Simply bumping the brightness up is of course not an option, this drain the battery like crazy.
EDIT: I too have tried the various Kernels, hardcore warm and cold, voodoo w/ color fix sadly all to no avail
EDIT2: @embrion The above all doesn't explain why our phones have this problem, but the far majority of Galaxy S phones doesn't. Of course I cannot statistically back this up, but I have not physically seen any other device that gets brown on autobrightness like ours. Any Ideas?
Do you say your friend's Galaxy S doesn't turn brownish or it does but gives higher brightness than your device in same lighting conditions?
embrion said:
Do you say your friend's Galaxy S doesn't turn brownish or it does but gives higher brightness than your device in same lighting conditions?
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Click to collapse
It does not turn brown and appears much brighter in equal lighting w/ auto brightness ON. I edited my post above, please read again if it was unclear before. Thank you!!
You should check it at manual brightness at level set few steps higher than min. I'd like to separate brownish display problem at one brightness level from inproper light sensor measure
embrion said:
You should check it at manual brightness at level set few steps higher than min. I'd like to separate brownish display problem at one brightness level from inproper light sensor measure
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Click to collapse
Like I said, the light sensor does not give an improper measure, the readings in *#0589# menu are equal across the devices (including mine). The brownish color tones do, to some degree, disappear if the brightness bar is set two ticks to the right of minimum.
(Auto)brightness corrections
Original Auto Brightness level is too high & sluggish.
It 's need to fix like a voodoo Brightness level fix (2.1 only).
schiphol said:
Like I said, the light sensor does not give an improper measure, the readings in *#0589# menu are equal across the devices (including mine). The brownish color tones do, to some degree, disappear if the brightness bar is set two ticks to the right of minimum.
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Yes, mine too. Second step from min. setting. I'll ask guys at my local forums to get some statistics. If your friend doesn't have such problem at the same color/theme than it must be display fault
embrion said:
Yes, mine too. Second step from min. setting. I'll ask guys at my local forums to get some statistics. If your friend doesn't have such problem at the same color/theme than it must be display fault
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Click to collapse
Which CSC code do you have? I mine was originally XEN (Netherlands). The units I tested that did not have the problem were all DBT (german Sim free). Just asked my brother and he says his phone also gets brownish (also XEN). Have to check product codes later, will update then.
Mine is XEE (Orange, Poland)
Supercurio did some tinkering with those settings:
https://github.com/project-voodoo/l...a2/Kernel/drivers/video/samsung/s3cfb_mdnie.c
I suspect this is the file we need to modify;
Code:
mDNIe_data_type mDNIe_UI[]=
{
#ifdef CONFIG_VOODOO_MDNIE
// Voodoo color: optimized UI mode
// reduce the sharpness filter radius to make it much closer
// to the real fuzzyness introduced by the SAMOLED Pentile pattern
// color saturation boost on everything is also disabled because
// it causes harm on stock settings (exaggerated colors)
0x0084, 0x0040,
0x0090, 0x0000,
0x0094, 0x0FFF,
0x0098, 0x005C,
0x009C, 0x0613,
0x00AC, 0x0000,
0x00B4, 0x0A00,
0x00C0, 0x0400,
0x00C4, 0x7200,
0x00C8, 0x008D,
0x00D0, 0x00C0,
END_SEQ, 0x0000,
Any thoughts and datasheet quotations on this? Because seriously I see just random numbers in this.
Some interesting code begins around line 315, but seriously I'm clueless
Another interesting file:
https://github.com/project-voodoo/l...2/Kernel/drivers/video/samsung/s3cfb_tl2796.c
My screen has brownish/reddish deep grays on brightness settings under 16-17%. However when I set it over 17% and use screen filter app deep grays are NOT brownish/reddish, this means there is definitely something with lower brightness settings.
Xan, check out the link I've posted in the first post. He gives sources that might be helpful
And the problem appears only at 2nd step of brightness (counted from zero brightness)
embrion said:
Xan, check out the link I've posted in the first post. He gives sources that might be helpful
And the problem appears only at 2nd step of brightness (counted from zero brightness)
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Click to collapse
@embrion so did you pm Supercurio? What did he say? It's too bad this color/sharpness fixing will probably be put on a back burner what with Gingerbread and CM7 development. D*RN IT! I tried an app in the market that is more precise than the built-in slider. Try it out Adjbrightness (free). I punched in all values possible between 2-255. The tipping point (where the browness is gone) lies at when you go from 34 to 35. Is this the same for everyone suffering from this problem. Please remove all apps like e.g. 'screen filter' before you try!
For me crucial step is going from
/ # echo 53 > /sys/devices/platform/s3cfb/spi_gpio.3/spi3.0/backlight/s5p_bl/brightness
to 54, however I'm running trasig's voodoo.
While 54 and over looks ok, lower values are... reddish/pinkish.
@schiphol: yes I did but no response. In dark colored Gingerbread era, this problem will be become more and more evident.
@xan: dzieki I'll flash latest Darky as it is based on trasig's voodoo and try your fix.
--edited--
Supercurio just responded me, I'll let you know about results
embrion said:
@schiphol: yes I did but no response. In dark colored Gingerbread era, this problem will be become more and more evident.
@xan: dzieki I'll flash latest Darky as it is based on trasig's voodoo and try your fix.
--edited--
Supercurio just responded me, I'll let you know about results
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Click to collapse
No fix there, just a different behaviour...
Would like to see this in next voodoo, might even write some simple user interface for this.
I have an idea but its not quite clear yet, however if this patch will let most users 'calibrate' their screens.. I think I'll give simple GUI a shot.
@embrion
Could you perhaps upload the screenshots you talked about in R64's thread so I can replicate. Because of different kernels and settings I want to try and establish beyond a doubt that the problem we're having is of the same nature and root cause. Thanks
This wont be visible on screenshots. You need to make a photo, problably with DSLR and know how to do it
I'll try it today and let you know
According to Supercurio, this is Samsung's color profile deviation, not SAMOLED fault itself.
Anything software broken can be software fixed
@schiphol, xan: yes, it won't be noticed at screenshots, I've already compared R64's black notification bar screenshots and my brown ones. Color picker showed a little difference in color (R:24, G:24, B:24 or something VS RGB: 0, 0, 0 - true black). Such difference should'n be visible and is not visible from software screenshot point of view but Samsung color profile makes 24,24,24 brown IN REAL LIFE while 0,0,0 is still black. I repeat, they're both black at screenshots no matter which brightness level is set, but only 0,0,0 black doesn't look like brown when viewed by bare human eye. Samsung profile at this brightness treats 24,24,24 as brown while it should as black.
--edited--
You're right, Xan. It's just another, ( but 1337 ) method of changing the brightness. I thought there's a plaintext table with levels accessible to change by hand
Hi Ok I have kept the brightness at 2 clicks to the right from minimum to stop grey from looking grey-brown all through today. Now my display accounts for 95% of the battery usage, it has never been this high before. The battery is at 25% whilst I only used the display for 44 minutes.
Thats ridiculous battery drainage and should be taken into careful consideration when a fix is developed for this issue. Are you guys having a similar experience??
For amateur astronomy use, I needed to be able to bring down my A43's LCD brightness to a very low level. After a bit of experimenting, here is a very simple app that lets you have a darker screen than the OS normally allows:
http://code.google.com/p/superdim
It requires root.
This is my first independent Android app, so no doubt I screwed up in some way.
arpruss said:
For amateur astronomy use, I needed to be able to bring down my A43's LCD brightness to a very low level. After a bit of experimenting, here is a very simple app that lets you have a darker screen than the OS normally allows:
http://www.mediafire.com/?zwsg7aeqtcqogpm
It requires root.
This is my first independent Android app, so no doubt I screwed up in some way.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Nice, if you need it, make it. Personally, I find using Night Mode in Chainfire better than simply turning down brightness. It turns the brightness down, and renders everything in red, or whatever color you choose, but red is the correct choice to retain night sensitivity.
Obviously, I probably wouldn't watch a movie like that, but it's great for when I'm bow-fishing by full moon and want to change songs or something without wrecking my night vision.
For astronomy purposes, ChainFire3D's night mode won't be enough. At the lowest normal system backlight setting, if one is fully dark adapted under a dark sky, the amount of light leaking through the black pixels will be enormous--the screen will look grey rather than black (well, I haven't tried it, but I have experience with other devices). What one needs to do for serious night vision protection is to BOTH turn the view to red with ChainFire3D AND dim the backlight to a very low level with this app. And I am not even sure this will be fully satisfactory, because on my A43 the amount of light leakage is really big.
By the way, I posted a new version and source, and renamed the project to SuperDim. I also added a toggle for the power LED, since they made it green rather than red.
arpruss said:
For astronomy purposes, ChainFire3D's night mode won't be enough. At the lowest normal system backlight setting, if one is fully dark adapted under a dark sky, the amount of light leaking through the black pixels will be enormous--the screen will look grey rather than black (well, I haven't tried it, but I have experience with other devices). What one needs to do for serious night vision protection is to BOTH turn the view to red with ChainFire3D AND dim the backlight to a very low level with this app. And I am not even sure this will be fully satisfactory, because on my A43 the amount of light leakage is really big.
By the way, I posted a new version and source, and renamed the project to SuperDim. I also added a toggle for the power LED, since they made it green rather than red.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hmm. That's good to know for the A43. I'd like to know what you think of the night mode in chainfire, just because there aren't many other people who worry about this topic. I live in St. Louis, a big city, so you probably have less ambient light, but I also wonder if my A101 gets darker than the A43. Even at night, I can turn it down to the point that I really can't read a damn thing.
Great idea with the Power LED. Once again, I don't think light levels drop low enough in St. Louis for it to bother me, but I hadn't even thought of disabling it.
To really be dark adapted, you need to be away from white light for about 45 minutes. (Though I find that after 15 minutes the payoff diminishes.) It's not going to happen outdoors in a big city.
I added profiles (three night, two day), and integrated SuperDim with ChainFire3D, so if you have ChainFire3D installed, you can control its night mode directly from SuperDim, and even include its night mode setting in a profile.
For my own use, I wanted a red screen dim profile for astronomy, a green screen dim profile for reading books in the dark, a dim full color profile for other night use, a bright green profile sometimes for reading books in the day, and a full color bright profile. But you can save whatever you want in the five profile slots.
I've been using figuring out the light control stuff for SuperDim as an opportunity for learning how to program for Android in preparation for writing (not from scratch--I got a donation of the AstroTools source code under the GPL to start with, and I may port some code from open2sky and AstroInfo for PalmOS) a high-end astronomy app. (I'm an experienced PalmOS developer, but quite new to Android.) I'm actually quite pleased. I was dreading java (I've usually developed in C), but I am finding Android development, especially with Eclipse, surprisingly pleasant.
arpruss said:
To really be dark adapted, you need to be away from white light for about 45 minutes. (Though I find that after 15 minutes the payoff diminishes.) It's not going to happen outdoors in a big city.
I added profiles (three night, two day), and integrated SuperDim with ChainFire3D, so if you have ChainFire3D installed, you can control its night mode directly from SuperDim, and even include its night mode setting in a profile.
For my own use, I wanted a red screen dim profile for astronomy, a green screen dim profile for reading books in the dark, a dim full color profile for other night use, a bright green profile sometimes for reading books in the day, and a full color bright profile. But you can save whatever you want in the five profile slots.
I've been using figuring out the light control stuff for SuperDim as an opportunity for learning how to program for Android in preparation for writing (not from scratch--I got a donation of the AstroTools source code under the GPL to start with, and I may port some code from open2sky and AstroInfo for PalmOS) a high-end astronomy app. (I'm an experienced PalmOS developer, but quite new to Android.) I'm actually quite pleased. I was dreading java (I've usually developed in C), but I am finding Android development, especially with Eclipse, surprisingly pleasant.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah, my point exactly. I'm about 15 miles away from the city when out on the river, but that's not really far enough to get out of the city's light pollution.
Great work integrating with Chainfire. I'll give it a try next time I'm out. It should be nice having everything in one place.
I'll be looking forward to the astronomy app. It's been a looong time since I've worked on one, but I still have the DOS version of CyberSky I helped develop, so I guess I still have a fondness for them.
I posted 0.23, fixing a bug that made day2 = day1.
And I posted 0.30, adding support for toggling keyboard and button backlight on devices that have them.
I use screen filter to make my screen dimmer..
its in the market..
1. As far as I can tell, Screen Filter doesn't adjust the backlight--it only lowers the LCD pixel intensity. As a result, even if you turn Screen Filter to something really low like 2%, if you take your device to a dark area, you'll see a grey glow coming from the screen, because the backlight leaks through the black pixels.
To remedy the grey glow issue, you need to turn the backlight down, but the OS only lets you turn it so far down (10/255 on my A43; some phones only allow 20/255) without directly writing to /sys/class/leds/lcd-backlight/brightness (which needs root, and is what SuperDim does).
I also suspect that in a dark area, with brightness set to a low value, lowering backlight will produce a more visually attractive image than Screen Filter, because lowering the backlight will make a black background be fairly black.
That's all for backlit LCD screens. OLED screens are a completely different kettle of fish, and SuperDim won't help you much there (though it'll still let you set themes controlling LEDs and ChainFire3D nightmode).
2. I generalized the code a little so it should let you control whatever LEDs your device has, as long as they have a /sys/class/leds/*/brightness interface.
3. By the way, ChainFire3D's nightmode is a touch imperfect: if you set it to red, I think it just turns off the green and blue channels. That means that green and blue visual elements cease to be visible. A somewhat better nightmode would convert the image from RGB to grayscale, and then turn off the green and blue channels. I don't know how easy to implement that would be--I don't know enough about GL blending (I tried to google but couldn't find an answer simple enough for me to understand).
arpruss said:
1. As far as I can tell, Screen Filter doesn't adjust the backlight--it only lowers the LCD pixel intensity. As a result, even if you turn Screen Filter to something really low like 2%, if you take your device to a dark area, you'll see a grey glow coming from the screen, because the backlight leaks through the black pixels.
To remedy the grey glow issue, you need to turn the backlight down, but the OS only lets you turn it so far down (10/255 on my A43; some phones only allow 20/255) without directly writing to /sys/class/leds/lcd-backlight/brightness (which needs root, and is what SuperDim does).
I also suspect that in a dark area, with brightness set to a low value, lowering backlight will produce a more visually attractive image than Screen Filter, because lowering the backlight will make a black background be fairly black.
That's all for backlit LCD screens. OLED screens are a completely different kettle of fish, and SuperDim won't help you much there (though it'll still let you set themes controlling LEDs and ChainFire3D nightmode).
2. I generalized the code a little so it should let you control whatever LEDs your device has, as long as they have a /sys/class/leds/*/brightness interface.
3. By the way, ChainFire3D's nightmode is a touch imperfect: if you set it to red, I think it just turns off the green and blue channels. That means that green and blue visual elements cease to be visible. A somewhat better nightmode would convert the image from RGB to grayscale, and then turn off the green and blue channels. I don't know how easy to implement that would be--I don't know enough about GL blending (I tried to google but couldn't find an answer simple enough for me to understand).
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I assumed it did convert to greyscale first before tinting, but you may be right. I'll have to think how to test that.
msticninja said:
I assumed it did convert to greyscale first before tinting, but you may be right. I'll have to think how to test that.
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Quick test: If you set CF3D to blue, anything that's pure yellow goes black. For example, if you go to SuperDim, the left half of the brightness adjustment bar is yellow and disappears completely.
Another test: go with the browser to http://www.w3schools.com/html/html_colors.asp in red mode. Notice that the blue 0000FF and green 00FF00 samples can't be distinguished from 000000 black, while the red FF0000 can't be distinguished from white FFFFFF.
arpruss said:
Quick test: If you set CF3D to blue, anything that's pure yellow goes black. For example, if you go to SuperDim, the left half of the brightness adjustment bar is yellow and disappears completely.
Another test: go with the browser to http://www.w3schools.com/html/html_colors.asp in red mode. Notice that the blue 0000FF and green 00FF00 samples can't be distinguished from 000000 black, while the red FF0000 can't be distinguished from white FFFFFF.
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Seems like pretty clear results to me. I wonder if converting to greyscale first would even be feasible, from a coding, and from a processor cycle standpoint. It would have to use extra power, but I wonder how much. It doesn't really matter for me, everything I need to do is doable, but interesting nonetheless.
msticninja said:
Seems like pretty clear results to me. I wonder if converting to greyscale first would even be feasible, from a coding, and from a processor cycle standpoint. It would have to use extra power, but I wonder how much. It doesn't really matter for me, everything I need to do is doable, but interesting nonetheless.
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There may be a way of hardware accelerating this.
Well, after 5 months of looking out for the best values, I've experimented and all and found out these to be the best. Even at lowest brightness, the screen is crisp and clear just like it's supposed to be.
People who have the Purple Screen issue, I highly recommend you use these values.
Requirements -
1. Franco Kernel Updater (TKT wouldn't give that much brightness/crispyness to the screen)
2. ICS Gradient Fix (Check Signature)
3. Franco Kernel
First up, flash Franco's latest kernel.
Secondly, make sure you don't have any 2 or more applications which have Color Control options (Like, Franco Kernel Updater and TKT - Remove TKT and stay with Franco). If you do have 2 or more installed, please set all values to default on all applications including Franco's. (In TKT, click on menu and select reset preferences and reboot).
Third, fire up Franco Kernel Updater and get to the CC options and set these :
Color Multipliers -
Red - 280
Green - 292
Blue - 350
Gamma -
Red - 4
Green - 0
Blue - 9
Disable Contrast Adaptive Brightness - Yes (Tick)
Contrast Control : -24
OMAP Gamma - 1.2
These values work BEST with MoDaCo's JB Build. Tested on Jr1, Jr.1.1, Jr2.
Please note : This is simply a band aid, not a total fix. The purple screen and grain issue is probably a hardware issue. This settings are extremely crisp on my device. You need to get adapted to them.
Thanks to -
1. Franco for his amazing kernel and application.
2. Morfic for introducing contrast control into the kernel world and of course for his kindness. (You're the sweetest developer I've talked to).
Best of luck with these settings guys!
Please, don't forget to click "Thanks"!
It made everything look over-saturated for me.. plus, is it safe to jack up the settings like this?
It did improve the grainy screen on low brightness problem, though.
Well, i think the best values i've EVER Seen.
Oh dear, so f****ng awesome.
via Google Galaxy Nexus
Made my eyes hurt.. Too cold.. I'm trying to get my screen as close to 6500k as possible.
Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2
Thank you for this! By far the best optimization of colors I've ever seen. Maybe colors are a bit over-saturated but thats how Super AMOLED should produce.
Doesn't lacking the values up that high create burn in???
Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using xda premium
craigbailey1986 said:
Doesn't lacking the values up that high create burn in???
Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using xda premium
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Try reducing every multiplier value by 40. 280 to 240, 292 to 252 and 300 to 260.
This can never be an all-in-one "fix" because of the way screen technology works. Everyone's screen will have different degrees of the problem itself (purple tint & grain), on top of that they will all have a slightly different color temperature, contrast level, saturation etc. By providing the values that worked for you, you're just going to have a thread where half the people think it looks great, half think it looks awful, and everyone thinks everyone else is crazy.
A better idea might be to describe the steps you took to arrive at your own numbers, things you looked for, how you tweaked them to get to the best values.
Look Excellent to me - Screen absolutely Pops, so vivid and the gradient issues are not visible.
Thanks so much!
Those high values are gonna kill your screen
OP settings work well for me (similar to my 200 215 280, -2 0 10, -23, CAB off), but OMAP always makes things worse IMO. With OMAP at 1.2 I instantly see banding again where with it off the gradients are smooth. OP settings with OMAP 1.0 are excellent however, reducing the magenta and yellowing I was seeing with my others. I am worried about the burn-in though..
What's this about burn in? Do these settings cause it?
I sort-of mispoke. Burn-in is possible, but high multipliers are more worried to wear out those pixels/degrade them faster.
Edit: I'm going for more of a "Trinity Blue" sort of solution now: 215 235 280, -2 0 15, -24, CAD off, OMAP unset. Still trying to find that balance that gets rid of the magenta/yellow at all points.
Okay guys try out 180,192 and 250 as the color multipliers. No burn issues then. I'm on it right now. Its great!
I'm using Trinity kernel, TKT, and Display Tester Pro for calibration. The gamma test shows that my particular settings should be red=2, green=3, blue=2. The color gamma settings are not relative to one another and are not "mixed together" for adjusting color. Each one is a separate adjustment for that color's correct level of brightness for midtones, relative to darkest and lightest levels. Together, the three settings add up to correct gray brightness levels, not to correct gray colorlessness.
If you look at a chart containing only black, 50% gray, and white, the color multipliers should be adjusted to remove any trace of color tint from the gray. The easiest way to do it is set the weakest color to 200 and reduce the other two colors until the gray has no color tint at all. The properly set color gamma settings, on the other hand, should make the 50% gray have the correct lightness level.
If you have yellow tint, there's not enough blue. Magenta tint means not enough green. Cyan tint, not enough red.
The color multipliers, unlike the gamma settings, are relative to one another. Once you have them set correctly relative to one another, moving them all up or all down together pnly changes the overall brightness of the display. The wrong overall brightness level will remove detail from either the black end or the white end. Too much brightness is also bad for the screen, not to mention battery drain.
So anyway I'll shut up now and I hope everyone gets their screens looking perfect.
gsm gnex / cm9 / trinity / 1420 MHz
for whatever reason trinity seems to be giving me better screen color, but im sure I could do the same with franco, anyways, my gamma settings are untouched, I found that modifying the color to these values makes the purple tint go away for me:
Red:135
Green:135
Blue:190
Trinity Contrast -15 to -25
Have you tried adjusting it for 18% gray? I can nail it pretty close with 180,150,190 and 8,0,8 but gamma is a complete ***** on this display...
strumcat said:
I'm using Trinity kernel, TKT, and Display Tester Pro for calibration. The gamma test shows that my particular settings should be red=2, green=3, blue=2. The color gamma settings are not relative to one another and are not "mixed together" for adjusting color. Each one is a separate adjustment for that color's correct level of brightness for midtones, relative to darkest and lightest levels. Together, the three settings add up to correct gray brightness levels, not to correct gray colorlessness.
If you look at a chart containing only black, 50% gray, and white, the color multipliers should be adjusted to remove any trace of color tint from the gray. The easiest way to do it is set the weakest color to 200 and reduce the other two colors until the gray has no color tint at all. The properly set color gamma settings, on the other hand, should make the 50% gray have the correct lightness level.
If you have yellow tint, there's not enough blue. Magenta tint means not enough green. Cyan tint, not enough red.
The color multipliers, unlike the gamma settings, are relative to one another. Once you have them set correctly relative to one another, moving them all up or all down together pnly changes the overall brightness of the display. The wrong overall brightness level will remove detail from either the black end or the white end. Too much brightness is also bad for the screen, not to mention battery drain.
So anyway I'll shut up now and I hope everyone gets their screens looking perfect.
gsm gnex / cm9 / trinity / 1420 MHz
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arzbhatia said:
Okay guys try out 180,192 and 250 as the color multipliers. No burn issues then. I'm on it right now. Its great!
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It's been discussed few times already - going above 200 can lead to screen burn in. On SAMOLED screens blue color wear out first and peeps really shouldn't touch this setting. Better set lower red/green values. Screen will look a bit darker so don't cranck up contrast too much, -10 should be good enough.
herzzreh said:
Made my eyes hurt.. Too cold.. I'm trying to get my screen as close to 6500k as possible.
Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2
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look at the graphs.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=29037317&postcount=1
herzzreh said:
Have you tried adjusting it for 18% gray? I can nail it pretty close with 180,150,190 and 8,0,8 but gamma is a complete ***** on this display...
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You can see where your gamma should by by installing the free version of Display Tester from the Play Store. Go to Color, Gamma, and slide the gray screen to the left to see the red page. Find the vertical bar that most closely matches the red bacground. The number on that bar is where your gamma should be set for that color. Mine is spot on at 2.3. Then slide to green page and do the same. Then the blue page. My green gamma reading is 2.8, meaning it isn't quite as bright as the red or blue, so I have to turn it up a hair. My blue is good at 2.3. The adjustment sliders in TKT only give me whole-number choices, so I get as close as possible with 2, 3, 2. I'm just guessing there, since TKT doesn't have normal gamma increments. Anyway good luck taming your gamma.
galaxy nexus (gsm) / cm9 / trinity @ 1.4GHz
is it normal that my LED colours seem to have multiple colours in them.. like example if i set the notification ligth to be orange ( with paranoid rom, but did the same on stock with lightflow) the light will be half light red and the other half will be yellow.. or green and blue if i want light blue.. it seems i have to mess around with the colours value (RGB) to get just one solid colour and not a mix of multiple colours..
this is hard to explain.. so if you know what i mean please let me know.. if not i can take a picture and upload them here!
Thanks
It's my understanding that although it IS an RGB LED, that doesn't necessarily mean that it will be able to recreate every color you could dream of. There's actually another thread here in the S3 section (Forget which part) where people are compiling a list of different Hex values of colors that turn out really well.
elementaldragon said:
It's my understanding that although it IS an RGB LED, that doesn't necessarily mean that it will be able to recreate every color you could dream of. There's actually another thread here in the S3 section (Forget which part) where people are compiling a list of different Hex values of colors that turn out really well.
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Click to collapse
thing is is that im using ParanoidAndroid rom, and i dont see the option to add a hex value.. i can only pick a hue and slide the colour around ..
Well, in my experience with that, it seems to have a better color output for the LED if you don't have the saturation all the way up..... Say if you were shooting for a pure red color, have the slider down just a bit from as bright as it can get. Seemed like whenever i tried using that to set LED colors, if i had it all the way up, it had something else mixed in.... generally i think a bit more of a white color to it.
elementaldragon said:
Well, in my experience with that, it seems to have a better color output for the LED if you don't have the saturation all the way up..... Say if you were shooting for a pure red color, have the slider down just a bit from as bright as it can get. Seemed like whenever i tried using that to set LED colors, if i had it all the way up, it had something else mixed in.... generally i think a bit more of a white color to it.
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yea thats what ive been doing, seems to work alright, was just wondering if it was normal for it to have mixed colours. thanks, what you said works !
HI have auto brightness turned off, but when scrolling web pages I notice the brightness changing. Its seems to get darker if images are displayed and brighter when I scroll past them. I dont notice this in any other application, but I suspect its the mostly white background of web pages. Do I have a defective unit or is this normal?
nunyabiz said:
HI have auto brightness turned off, but when scrolling web pages I notice the brightness changing. Its seems to get darker if images are displayed and brighter when I scroll past them. I dont notice this in any other application, but I suspect its the mostly white background of web pages. Do I have a defective unit or is this normal?
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I had this problem on my S3, I'm assuming your using the stock browser if so then press "Menu" and click Brightness and then uncheck auto brightness - hopefully that helps.
Geordie Affy said:
I had this problem on my S3, I'm assuming your using the stock browser if so then press "Menu" and click Brightness and then uncheck auto brightness - hopefully that helps.
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I have auto brightness off in the settings menu, but don't see it in the browser menu.
go to device - display and change the screen mode. I believe auto will use dynamic lighting. I've got it on movie.
madsquabbles said:
go to device - display and change the screen mode. I believe auto will use dynamic lighting. I've got it on movie.
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I have it set on standard.
nunyabiz said:
I have it set on standard.
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Went to best buy and looked at the display and I noticed the same brightness fluctuation. A best buy employee though he might have seen it, and the Samsung rep says she doesn't see it. So I guess I have sensitive eyes and that's just a feature of this tablet. I hope I can learn to live with it.
nunyabiz said:
Went to best buy and looked at the display and I noticed the same brightness fluctuation. A best buy employee though he might have seen it, and the Samsung rep says she doesn't see it. So I guess I have sensitive eyes and that's just a feature of this tablet. I hope I can learn to live with it.
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AH...I think I have the answer.
While on homescreen press "menu" then "settings" then "Display" then Uncheck "Auto Adjust Screen Tone"
I must have done this on my S3 and forgot :silly: either way hopefully this fixes it for you.
Geordie Affy said:
AH...I think I have the answer.
While on homescreen press "menu" then "settings" then "Display" then Uncheck "Auto Adjust Screen Tone"
I must have done this on my S3 and forgot :silly: either way hopefully this fixes it for you.
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Thanks for trying, but I have searched all the menus and there is not anything like that.
nunyabiz said:
Thanks for trying, but I have searched all the menus and there is not anything like that.
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Click to collapse
The reason I believed it was "Auto Adjust Screen Tone" is because its description is exactly what you describe. Its description is "Save power by adjusting screen tone according to analysis of images". I was assuming it will be in the same place as my S3 which might not be the case.
It should have been in the general phone display settings mmmmm i hope there is a solution as it would annoy me too when i do purchase the 10.1.
it could be possible that the autobrightness jumps too much. do you have it turned on? i use velis and lux (seeing which i like better) to control autobrightness. i don't have the dynamic screen effect on mine and i hate any tablet or phone that does, so i do notice it when a device has it. where others are saying the tablet is too dim, i think it's too bright and never go above 35% and mostly under 20%.
madsquabbles said:
it could be possible that the autobrightness jumps too much. do you have it turned on? i use velis and lux (seeing which i like better) to control autobrightness. i don't have the dynamic screen effect on mine and i hate any tablet or phone that does, so i do notice it when a device has it. where others are saying the tablet is too dim, i think it's too bright and never go above 35% and mostly under 20%.
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stated in the op, auto brightness is off.
nunyabiz said:
Thanks for trying, but I have searched all the menus and there is not anything like that.
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Settings> Device> Display> Screen Mode> Adapt display
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
ddavtian said:
Settings> Device> Display> Screen Mode> Adapt display
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I have that set to standard.
well since i have my screen set low it doesn't have the option to fluctuate - can't go below zero without an overlay. so as a test i turned up the brightness and check out some white backgrounds and then quickly introduce a dark object and it's definitely there. it's very subtle (i only went to 40% to test) but it's there. this is a feature that should NOT be in a device made people who like to draw. fluctuating screen brightness can totally screw things up for a very particular artist.
i hate that you brought this up b/c now i'm gonna start using it at a brighter setting just so i can see the effect more often, lol.
madsquabbles said:
well since i have my screen set low it doesn't have the option to fluctuate - can't go below zero without an overlay. so as a test i turned up the brightness and check out some white backgrounds and then quickly introduce a dark object and it's definitely there. it's very subtle (i only went to 40% to test) but it's there. this is a feature that should NOT be in a device made people who like to draw. fluctuating screen brightness can totally screw things up for a very particular artist.
i hate that you brought this up b/c now i'm gonna start using it at a brighter setting just so i can see the effect more often, lol.
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Lol, sorry! I see it really bad at about every brightness. The samsung Rep didnt see it at all, or so she says, so I guess some people are more sensative than others.
I have this problem as well
Sorry for digging up an old post.
I recently bought galaxy note 10.1 2014 and I also noticed this behavior when I was viewing pdf files in class today while taking notes.
The screen brightness dimmed very slightly when an imaged shows up in a pdf file.
I thought this happened only in pdf files in Adobe Reader so I tried polaris pdf viewer - same issue, then I tried opening a word document and scrolled through - same issue again. I tried different settings under display and it did not have any effect on it.
So I'm assuming its a software issue and hopefully with an update it should get better I guess.
Anyone else having this issue?
issue
No one else having this issue? I believe this happen in every note out there, just want to confirm this with other people here. It's easy to reproduce, just open a pdf file with a colored image on one page and text on other page and scroll through pages, you should notice a slight dimming of screen.
Thanks
Tbh I have noticed it, I first noticed it on the BBCNews website whenever an image pops up after some text. The screen does dim very slightly, it must be something with the fact that the image is darker so the display will naturally dim a little since theres less white when it displays small text on a white background. Thats my guess but honestly no idea. Also its not something I find too annoying.
Sent from Galaxy Note 10.1 2014 Edition via Tapatalk.
I noticed the same on a P600 32GB
Mainly in browsers and PDF - as said by others - reading from a text to picture or the revert, even with autobrigthness off and Image Mode set to standard or movie, 'adapt display' option ticked off...I still notice a slight adjustment in brigthness.
too bad that samsung integrated this "autothing" somewhere deeper in the layers (firmware,soft, kernel, hardware,?). It loses some value when you use it as an image monitor (video, photography).
My two cents Samsung!