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Hi all.
Im hoping someone can help me out.
In the process of building the wireless charging hack for the htc desire and the prototype works fine.
However at the moment i have connected the induction coil circuit to a micro usb plug which then plugs into the desire. This is an ugly solution!
I would rather solder the induction coil circuit straight to the circuit board but am having trouble identifying where to connect to.
Has anyone looked into this and able to show me a +5v solder point on the board near the micro usb socket?
Appreciate the help.
Hi all.
Sat down with my multimeter and the desire in several pieces! Lol.
Finally found the contact points on the main board for the micro usb power.
Have now attached the induction coil to the phone main board and slipped the back cover back on.
Now I have a a desire with wireless charging using the palm touchstone but still retaining the ability to charge via the micro usb if needed!
I love the desire so much! is there nothing you cant do?
tanv28 said:
Hi all.
Sat down with my multimeter and the desire in several pieces! Lol.
Finally found the contact points on the main board for the micro usb power.
Have now attached the induction coil to the phone main board and slipped the back cover back on.
Now I have a a desire with wireless charging using the palm touchstone but still retaining the ability to charge via the micro usb if needed!
I love the desire so much! is there nothing you cant do?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You going to post some pictures of that ???
Pics
duryard said:
You going to post some pictures of that ???
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Good idea!
I spent ages trying to build a slim line micro-usb plug that could easily plug in and out if I needed to charge away from a touchstone but it was not very pretty and in my frustration I took apart the phone trying to find a points on the board instead! Initially I was planning on soldering to the micro usb +5v pin but that was way to hard so instead I searched for a contact on the pcb and eventually found one.
From the outside, the phone doesn't look any different from any other desire which I prefer.
Here are some pics. I can't take pics of the internals as I've put it all back together now and don't fancy the risk of breaking the tiny wires!
Attached some pics though as requested.
Nice project
Sent from my HTC Desire using XDA App
hi , i was thinking of doing this , when i got my phone apart i noticed two holes in the plastic that covers the microusb with two gold contact underneath, are these ground and 5+ i would check but my multi meter is bust
Hi,
this project is great and I also want to build this.
Could you please indicate the appropriate contacts which you used on one of these pictures:
http://blog.afkbio.de/index.php/uncategorized/anleitung-fur-displaytausch-bei-htc-desire-teil-3/
Did the copper coil together with the PCB (there is a PCB needed, I guess) easily fit into the HTC Desire casing? I tried to fit 5 sheets of paper there but couldn't close the case afterwards.
Do you have any more details? Will the Desire hold on the Touchstone or did you add magnets somewhere?
Hi.
Regarding the contacts, I used the 0v of the microusb socket.
The part of the pcb i soldered the +v to is not shown in those pics but if you look at pic 7, there is a square contact on the hidden side of the pcb connected to the microusb socket at the bottom of the phone. That is what i used.
I found that the case fits on fine and the phone is held on ok to the touchstone without any additional magnets but maybe that could be strengthened by thinning down the backcase a little.
i hope that makes sense. very hard to describe without pictures! i wish i had taken some when i did the mod!
I asked because I was afraid that I would need a "bigger" back cover as used by some extended batteries for the Desire. So you just extracted the coil from the Pal Pre backcover together with the board and put it on top of the regular Desire battery?
mikey887 said:
hi , i was thinking of doing this , when i got my phone apart i noticed two holes in the plastic that covers the microusb with two gold contact underneath, are these ground and 5+ i would check but my multi meter is bust
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you are talking about the ones to the left of the battery (the only ones i could find) thats +2.6V
Does it work through a case? Such as otterbox commuter?
con247 said:
Does it work through a case? Such as otterbox commuter?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'll find out tonight, i'm going to destroy a powermatt cube and give this mod a shot.
Ok, so now I got my hands on a backplate and a touchstone and already disassembled the stuff.
The point is that I still need to know where to solder the 5V. How can I measure the various golden points? I have a multimeter, but where do I probe the black (mass) pin and where the red one (sample)???
I'm a little confused.
I thought I might be able to do the usb port replacement myself but after getting the part and desoldering the old one, I am pretty sure I am risking damaging the board if I try.
Seems like it needs a more skilled touch.
Anyone doing the repair cheaper than buying the daughterboard outright?
_ck_ said:
I thought I might be able to do the usb port replacement myself but after getting the part and desoldering the old one, I am pretty sure I am risking damaging the board if I try.
Seems like it needs a more skilled touch.
Anyone doing the repair cheaper than buying the daughterboard outright?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have, meaning it can be done, though I'm not sure what your question is. The port has five pins, which is much less aggravating compared to Samsung's. But you need the right equipment, i.e, decent soldering stations with the right tips (0.5, 0.8, 1.0 mm maximum) and temperatures, the right magnifying glass, adequate lighting, dexterity, and above all, patience.
I've found out that if you initially set out your goal to have a working tab again, then you'd have had the wrong mentality, because it would make you impatient. But if you go about it as if you're studying something unknown, you'd forget about time and therefore become patient without attempting to be so. Have fun.
Yeah I have everything but a professional soldering iron that can handle extremely fine tips, and the tips themselves.
I mean, I can do soldering but the pins on that usb port are crazy thin, I can only make out the pins and pads on the board clearly with the board holder magnifying glass and even that still makes them seem very close together.
I probably need a real Hakko iron and tips to get this done, that's a bit of an investment.
I assume the steps would be tin the pins, tin the pads, then solder the bracket of the usb port to the board, then heat the pins until the solder on the pins and the pads fuse. Sound about right?
Much easier said that done.
How the heck do they put 10 watts through one of those tiny pins.
I sent mine to an eBay seller. $31 including all shipping. Worked put perfect .
_ck_ said:
Yeah I have everything but a professional soldering iron that can handle extremely fine tips, and the tips themselves.
I mean, I can do soldering but the pins on that usb port are crazy thin, I can only make out the pins and pads on the board clearly with the board holder magnifying glass and even that still makes them seem very close together.
I probably need a real Hakko iron and tips to get this done, that's a bit of an investment.
I assume the steps would be tin the pins, tin the pads, then solder the bracket of the usb port to the board, then heat the pins until the solder on the pins and the pads fuse. Sound about right?
Much easier said that done.
How the heck do they put 10 watts through one of those tiny pins.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hakko would be expensive. I bought an Aoyue station, which works fine. You want to smear that area of the board with rosin paste (just enough) to keep solder from bridging between pins. No need to spread solder onto the pins themselves. Some on the pads should do.
Yes, you solder the bracket first, but make sure the pins are aligned correctly with the pads (this must be done with a hi-power loupe or magnifyer (10x)). You set the temperature at around 375 (on mine anyway), then slide the tip from the end of the pad forward to melt the solder so it would envelop the pin. You don;t want to apply heat directly to the pins since if it's too much, it might melt the plastic housing of the port, or mollify and bend or break the pins themselves.
Then clean the rosin residue, and use a volt meter to check for continuity between one end of the USB cable and the end points of those pads on the board (not at the pins since you might have contact up to those points, but not further). Good luck.
graphdarnell said:
then slide the tip from the end of the pad forward to melt the solder so it would envelop the pin. You don;t want to apply heat directly to the pins
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What you are describing, not heating the pins, is a cold solder joint and will eventually snap since there is no real bond between the pad and the pin.
I find it dumbfounding to believe Asus made this design where 10 watts of power is going through one of those tiny pins with barely any surface contact (assuming the heavy bracket is used for the ground).
http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=321486121068&alt=web
Frack it, I destroyed a new $7 usb port trying to do this today with inadequate equipment.
This is getting too expensive. I'll debate sending it to someone else. Or getting a better tablet.
_ck_ said:
Frack it, I destroyed a new $7 usb port trying to do this today with inadequate equipment.
This is getting too expensive. I'll debate sending it to someone else. Or getting a better tablet.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hehe, sorry to hear. You win some... Whatever process you called cold solder joint, I had enough heat to the tip to melt the solder on the pad that flowed and covered the pin (inspected via loupe). So I don't think it would snap anytime soon. Other than that, the last pin to the left (looking at it from the port jack) is GND. And tiny as they may be, they sufficiently carry the current to charge. You should've seen the Samsung pins, which are unbelievably horrendous.
So I'm looking into the possibility of making a wireless charging solution on my own. I have lots of wireless chargers at home, work, in the car, and I would really benefit from getting wireless charging working.
I took a USB Qi charging coil and soldered wires, which I then attached (well, just touched ) to either end of the magnetic connector, and it worked.
The difficulty I'm facing is, how can I keep these wires touching the magnetic charging port semi-permanently without doing anything dangerous like attempting to solder it directly.
So I'm wondering if anyone has any neat ideas of how I might rig this up. Any ideas would help a lot! If I come up with something good, I'll make a guide so others can do it.
You could try to get someone to 3D print a side piece similar to the one on the Z3 wireless charging case from sony: http://www.sonymobile.com/us/products/accessories/wireless-charging-cover-wcr14/
Have them leave chambers to run the wire through.
JCBomb said:
You could try to get someone to 3D print a side piece similar to the one on the Z3 wireless charging case from sony: http://www.sonymobile.com/us/products/accessories/wireless-charging-cover-wcr14/
Have them leave chambers to run the wire through.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've been thinking about making my own wireless charging case similar to the sony branded case but using high quality leather, and an oem qi charging circuit with a 3d printed base clip with the circuit connectors integrated into the clip, just to ensure constant connectivity.
just looking into prices for scrap leather now.
duraaraa said:
So I'm looking into the possibility of making a wireless charging solution on my own. I have lots of wireless chargers at home, work, in the car, and I would really benefit from getting wireless charging working.
I took a USB Qi charging coil and soldered wires, which I then attached (well, just touched ) to either end of the magnetic connector, and it worked.
The difficulty I'm facing is, how can I keep these wires touching the magnetic charging port semi-permanently without doing anything dangerous like attempting to solder it directly.
So I'm wondering if anyone has any neat ideas of how I might rig this up. Any ideas would help a lot! If I come up with something good, I'll make a guide so others can do it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Have you tried tape? It would be covered up by your case anyway, right?
PuffDaddy_d said:
Have you tried tape? It would be covered up by your case anyway, right?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've thought of tape but I've yet to figure out a way to tape it where it will definitely stay in place.
I might be able to get a case that would cover it, but my current cases have holes so that magnetic chargers could be plugged in.
I've decided to try using copper tape to connect a Qi coil to the magnetic dock port. I'll see how it goes. Hopefully it will be as easy as I'm hoping it will be.
So I finally managed to make it work. Unfortunately, I had to solder.
I gave up with trying to line things up just right and keep it in place, so I just soldered a Qi receiver to the magnetic charging port, wrapped it around to the back of the phone, and fit in a case. It charges wirelessly now, so I'm happy. Unfortunately, I don't know if I'll ever be able to clean it up in the future if I want to sell the phone. But to me, wireless charging was super important. I was also able to continue using my Z1C battery case which uses the magnetic port, so I'm pretty happy with the end result.
Pics?
it's ugly, but I'll put up pics when I get a chance.
Pictures as promised. I had been concerned adding this might block NFC, but NFC works just fine. Obviously, magnetic charging cables don't work (but a Z1C charging case I have does.)
It adds some thickness behind it so the case doesn't fit quite perfectly, but well enough to stay on. I didn't have thinner cables, but having some might have been able to decrease the thickness. Also, I'm not necessarily good at soldering, so I just did what I could.
But I can charge it on my bedside table and in my iOttie Qi dock in my car, so I'm cool with it.
hmm not pretty, but i guess it works. how is the charging speed?
you should be able to clean it up fine if you use some solder wick.
Awesome job!
Can you please give us a link for the receiver?
All I can find are with usb
ugly doesn't even start describing it... seriously, you ruined that phone. You could've cannibalized a 3rd party docking station instead
duraaraa,
Thanks for blazing this trail for us, mighty brave to solder to your phone like that! Now that you've had this set up for a few weeks, is it holding up ok? I'd just about give my left nut for an actual phone case that simply has a wireless receiver built in and taps into the magnetic charger pins, but I doubt anyone will ever make one since (I believe) the Z3C is discontinued. I mean, they make those giant external battery packs for the Z3C that use the pins, so why not a qi-compatible one??? Anyway, no way I'm soldering to my pins so I'm basically trying to mold a connector out of epoxy that I can squeeze between the side of the case and the pins. (Basically I pushed one of my magnetic cable connectors into a clay bar and filled w/epoxy.) It's still drying so I have no idea if it's feasible at all, but wanted to pop in and say thanks for the inspiration.
mralexsays said:
duraaraa,
Thanks for blazing this trail for us, mighty brave to solder to your phone like that! Now that you've had this set up for a few weeks, is it holding up ok? I'd just about give my left nut for an actual phone case that simply has a wireless receiver built in and taps into the magnetic charger pins, but I doubt anyone will ever make one since (I believe) the Z3C is discontinued. I mean, they make those giant external battery packs for the Z3C that use the pins, so why not a qi-compatible one??? Anyway, no way I'm soldering to my pins so I'm basically trying to mold a connector out of epoxy that I can squeeze between the side of the case and the pins. (Basically I pushed one of my magnetic cable connectors into a clay bar and filled w/epoxy.) It's still drying so I have no idea if it's feasible at all, but wanted to pop in and say thanks for the inspiration.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
hows your build coming along mate I'd love to see how it looks.
kstanley7 said:
hows your build coming along mate I'd love to see how it looks.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not good I'm afraid my friend... My first attempt (trying to mold a connector out of epoxy using a clay mold) failed, the thing came out looking like a chewed up piece of gum and just wouldn't work. My next attempt involved slicing up a couple of cheap magnetic adapters and cables to try to trim down the connectors to something reasonably sized, but they become really brittle when you cut them that thin... Unfortunately, I think it'd take someone with some type of plastic molding equipment or maybe a 3d printer (that is capable of making really small, fine-detail parts) to make this thing. I'm still disappointed that Sony makes a wireless case for the Z3, but not the Z3C, but I've also come to realize that the Z3C has such good battery life that maybe I don't really need such a case. (I come from a long line of Nexus, HTC, and Samsung devices so I've become somewhat of a charging addict!)
tl;dr: Just enjoy the Z3C and use the handy magnetic dock for overnight charging.
just looking at the magnetic connectors on the z3c I think there might be a way but it'll add a couple more mm to the height, would need to get someone with a 3d printer, but if the wallet is made of leather and is inserted underneath, with the qi wireless pad, and two wires made into connection terminals which would then clip onto the phone so a solid connection is made between those terminals.
Just to answer some questions, it's held up. I think it's fine -- anyone desperate for Qi should just bite the bullet and solder. Charging speed is similar to really any other Qi-charged device.
apis10 said:
Awesome job!
Can you please give us a link for the receiver?
All I can find are with usb
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry my response is so late!
It's the USB type. I un-soldered the USB ribbon and soldered a wire for the two connections.
So you would want to buy the USB version, I think.
Look into copper tape. I attempted this a little while back but I think my charging pad wasn't powerful enough. What charging pad are you using?
This weekend, I did a well deserved 2015 Upgrade to my Galaxy Nexus, by making it compatible with Qi charging stations.
Showcase: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sbaimVOVAic
First thing I did, was take the phone apart. It's very easy and nearly impossible to do wrong. All you need to do is take out battery and sim card along with all the screws behind the cover. Then use a guitar pick or something similar to loose the clips around the screen: Start with the clip on the left, right below the volume keys, next the one above the speaker/frontfacing camera and the last two are located below the power button. This video shows how to do just that: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WIAM5pxdUiM
Afterwards, i drilled two holes with a 1mm drukk through two of the three contact plates, put small cables through said holes from the other side and soldered them to the contacts. It had to be as thin as possible, as the contacts make contact with the main board with tiny springs, that don't have a lot of give.
The three contacts are in the following order:
Left = +5V
Middle = [rumor]Samsung Fast Charge regulation[/rumor]
Right = Ground
After that was done, I use small metal strips (~0.5mm thick), shortened the cables and soldered them to these strips. Afterwards, I put the phone back together and fixed the position of the contacts according to the position the contacts of the Qi were in.
I had to scratch off some of the notches on the backplate, as these were in the way, due to the cables I had to route along the left side. Finally, I fixated the Qi module with some doublesided tape to the backplate and voilá, it was finished.
This cost me like 5 bucks for the noname aftermarket Qi module (charging station not included) and a few hours to get it all done!
If you got questions, feel free to ask (post, not pm pls!). Any kind of feedback is also welcomed!
Nice work! I added one of the USB qi coil addons and I found it got very hot when charging. I was worried it'd heat the battery up and shorten the life of it....
bamtan2 said:
Nice work! I added one of the USB qi coil addons and I found it got very hot when charging. I was worried it'd heat the battery up and shorten the life of it....
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
yeah, im experiencing a similar issue. Looking at the current the qi station consumes, my module doesnt seem to throttle at all (via usb, it starts at 1A and, starting at around 85% charge, it slowly drops to 0A).
The Qi module should communicate with the station and signal the charge rate and subsequently full charge status (= no more charging). nada. I ordered another module by another manufacturer to see if it makes any difference. though, I suspect the GN just isnt fit for Qi, no matter what
P.S. The temps of the battery quickly go up to 45°C. When using normal usb charging, 40°C is already pretty rare. However most of the heat is not produced by charging the battery itself, but by the coil transferring the temperature. the backside of the battery remains a cool 30°C, even after charging for a long time using Qi.
Did you solve the high temperature problem? I was thinking of a similar mod but also got high temps with an external USB plug-in receiver module.
Great! I wanted to do something like that, bought the Qi unit, and a platform for charging, but before soldering checked both charges, and I did not like the fact that you need to put the phone just to the point that he began to be charged
Okay... i´m trying to make a mod for my Z1C to make it qi compatible....
I have the magnetic connector from a dock (which is broken).
So, using the connector + cover + glue can make it work.... and of course, need to solder the receiver to the connector....
But, the big question... which receiver should i use?
First of all, i´m from Argentina... so i have a limited access to receivers.
I´ve seen here receivers from Samsung Galaxy S3, S4, S5, Note III and Note 4, and a few others generic...
The maximum current that could find was 650mA... but read some comments that the output 1000mA is a lie... and there is no difference between the receivers...
So, which one should i buy?
Thanks to all!!
Finally, get a 700mAh receiver, and cutting out the cable, mixing + soldering + glueing it all together, and now it´s working....
Samsung GS4 1000mA QI receiver
I have a few Galaxy S4(1000mA)/S3(800mA) QI receiver cards.
The cards are different depending on the contact points location in the phones.
So you just soldered the internal magnetic charging points to a QI receiver card inside the phone?????
If you have the QI Receiver inside the phone (only real place for it), how much pressure does that place on the back cover??
The back cover tends to break away from the frame without much effort, so having the raised 'bulk' of a Qi card in the phone would only add to the pressure for the back cover to separate.
On Samsung phones (GS4 which I've added QI cards) it does take a bit of brute force to chip the back cover on again and some GS4 aftermarket cases/covers can not be used with the QI card installed due to the back of the phone being ever so slightly raised.
I have the QI receiver cards, glue seals rings for Z1C back cover and the Qi chargers and it is something I have thought about, but with three working magnet DK32 docks around the house, it's not something I have advanced at this time.
Well done for getting it to charge via QI charger if that is what you've done.
Maybe a photo would be nice.
Okay... now, the photos:
The tape is over the receiver module.
The original contacts from the receiver were removed, and over there, was soldered some copper tape (that can be seen in the photos).
The contacts were made by opening-cutting a magnetic cable, soldering it to the copper tape, and then glueing it to the cover, to maintain position.
The charger seems to be very picky about position. Searching over the internet, seems to be a common issue with this model...
Hope it´s usefull...
Well... about the charger, there seems to be an easy fix to it's pickiness... Take off the upper side... That way, the thing will gone a cool itself, and the connection will become a lot easier...