Develop Bugs

Problem with trackball!

Hi guys,
The trackball on my Orbit has stopped recognising being rolled up, left or right, and the silver clickwheel is stiff. Is this repairable myself, or should I be looking at a new motherboard?
Cheers,
Nick

hey dontpannic, don't panic
at least not too hard.
It is possible to exchange the trackball unit. You can sell a new one on the internet (I bought one via eBay, it was in your country and very cheap) Allthough, it is kind of hard to get the old unit out of your phone. You will have to totally apart your phone, because the trackball unit is stick to the daughterboard which is behind the LCD
There are a number of guides to help you apart your phone, you can find it somewhere on this forum. Once apart, you can blow the dust out and uncover your current trackball (mine was kind of hidden ) Or you can get the whole trackball off the board and replace it.
(I should note I got my phone apart couple of times, so have some experience. It can be tricky)
ciao!

I agree with amfasis, it can be tricky but gets very easy once you've done it a couple of times and know what to expect (how much force to apply separating parts...)
Everything on the daughterboard is pretty open under the cover so I suspect something sticky got dripped in there (cola?) from the symptoms you mention.
I thought I had a problem with my daughterboard as well since I was getting random scrolling action in all applications, but it turned out I had some dirt stuck on the side of the screen giving a bad signal on the touchscreen.
I took apart my whole trackball and even took the silver cover off the silver scroll wheel toggle and took out the tiny spring... that was an adventure getting it all back together correctly after cleaning!
I chalk all of it up to an excellent learning experience and now have no fear of taking it all apart just to look at it again. You will too.
Good luck!

Thanks guys! Will give this a try and see what happens

Replacing the digitizer on the TP2

Hi,
Just purchased a TP2 with a cracked digitizer. I also have the replacement. I've done a bit of research, and it looks like a ton of steps. I'm pretty confident I can do it, so all I'm really looking for is some tips. Any surprises I might see that may not have been covered in this guide? This is what I have so far:
http://translate.google.co.uk/trans...ka/htc_touch_pro2/&sl=ru&tl=en&hl=en&ie=UTF-8

how did you conclude that your digitizer is cracked?

The LCD is fine. It's the top layer of plastic that is cracked. I haven't received the phone yet, but I inspected it, and that's what I concluded. The person who sold it to me is including a replacement part, but I know I'm looking at a lengthy process to dismantle the device.

Do you have to take apart the entire phone just to change the digitizer? I thought you could just hook something underneath the corner and pry it out.
It seems like such a drag if you have to take the whole phone apart to change an exterior item.

Man you're in for a world of hurt and frustration... Easier to just purchase and replace the LCD and digitizer together...
But hey, good luck.....

have you managed to replace the digitizer only? if its such a mission why are so many people selling them on ebay? a scam maby lol?

i too am interested in your results, just now bought a cracked LCD htc touch pro 2 for $100, touching the screen works, except that the phone is stuck in head-set mode and can't seem to get out of it. also, i want to replace the lcd and use the phone myself. can you pls post your success/educational steps which you followed. also, where did you buy the replacement LCD? how much ? pls help.

ultramag69 said:
Man you're in for a world of hurt and frustration... Easier to just purchase and replace the LCD and digitizer together...
But hey, good luck.....
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Totally agree here. From what I have read you dont want to mess around with trying to pry the current digitizer off and then reapply a new one on. It's a HUGE pain in the ass. Just purchase a replacement LCD screen/digitizer combo and i's apparently super easy to swap out.

I've taken apart tons of phones, I'm currently waiting on a digitizer to replace for my TP2. If you search this forum you will find instructions how to do it.
While waiting I've been reviewing the instructions.
As always the hardest part is putting it back together.
The only thing I can recommend to you is to don't worry about replacing it. Take pictures with a digital camera as you go so you can know how to put it back together.
Hopefully I will get mine by this weekend. It is for a T-Mobile TP2 and the only shop to have one available was in Hong Kong.
Good luck.

Redman0570 said:
I've taken apart tons of phones, I'm currently waiting on a digitizer to replace for my TP2. If you search this forum you will find instructions how to do it.
While waiting I've been reviewing the instructions.
As always the hardest part is putting it back together.
The only thing I can recommend to you is to don't worry about replacing it. Take pictures with a digital camera as you go so you can know how to put it back together.
Hopefully I will get mine by this weekend. It is for a T-Mobile TP2 and the only shop to have one available was in Hong Kong.
Good luck.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi, can u post how you go with this e.g. is it easy enough to seperate the lcd and touchscreen. Maby a few pics as well if you can.
Cheers

It can be done but it requires ALOT of patience. Take it slowly and try not to leaver against the LCD in anyway. If you do break the screen when replacing it a replacement isn't expensive.

I replaced the digitizer twice. Taking the phone apart and assembling it back is difficult only when you do it for the first time. Once you know what's going on it just takes some time and precision. The REALLY tough part when replacing JUST the digitizer is putting the lcd and digitizer together without any dust or fingerprints in between. I ended up with dusting and vacuuming the room, putting some super-clean brand new plastic bags around the workplace and putting the cold shower on. Then using super-clean glass polishing microfibre cloth and anti-static glass cleaning liquid under really good lamp I managed to get both parts 100% clean and put them back together. Don't forget latex gloves (the ones that leave no marks) - fingerprints are hundred times worse than dust to get rid of. I have no idea how long did it really take but when I finished my back hurt like hell and water was dripping from the ceiling
Separating lcd and digitizer is not too hard. It was easiest when it was still attached to the bezel. I just pried it out applying easy, firm pressure and taking my time. Try not to damage the sticky layer on the edges or get it excessively dirty - it'll make your life easier later.
I hope it goes easier for you. Gud luck!
EDIT: Make sure that lcd is positioned 100% correctly (there is 1 or 2mm space to move it around). It is a very unpleasant surprise to put the phone back together just to find out that some top or bottom pixel lines are permanently invisible (The Voice of True Experience speaks here:/). And generally - keep the place around you tidy - maybe some containers for screws, parts, tools and that sort of stuff. I am not naturally anal enough to start from this point but found out in the process that this sort of job gets extremely frustrating and exhausting when you get confused, start losing parts etc.

It is major hurt! The TP2 is really not user serviceable! Anyway after reading all instructions I still screwed it up. I should have sent it in to HTC. I would not recommend changing the digitizer on your own.
Everything went well until it came to removing the LCD & replacing the digitizer. I cut the speaker cable, and the LCD just came apart. Luckily I have another LCD, looking for a speaker cable now.

has anyone found any places that sell the lcd and digitizer together for the T-Mobile TP2?

Thanks to these instructions I was able to replace the broken digitizer (glass) on my TP2. Unfortunately the Russian instructions stop short of replacing the glass.
Tools required: T5 torx mini screwdriver, letter opener, mini philips, a mini straight screwdriver and I found a very mini (1mm ) straight screwdriver handy for getthing the keyboard and screen back loose. The letter openner and two straight screwdrivers are only for prying
Here is what I did from the last spot on the Russian instructions: (yes you have to do every step)
Note: Be very careful removing the ribbon taped to the back of the LCD. You have to pry the speaker out ot the case up at the top; don't attempt to remove it by pulling on the ribbon. Once the speaker is loose (it's attached to the riboon, you are ok to remove it.
1. Take a small straight screwdriver and pry all around the LCD (metal back with handwriting on it in the last photo.) There are plastic tabs all around it centering it. You can pry gently against them. The LCD is only adhered with a small gasket around the edge of the glass. It is not glued to the screen as was posted by someone else. It comes out fairly easily.
2. Remove the black tape holding down the ribbon connected to the digitizer. I wasn't able to save the tape but not a big deal. Below the tape is one of three screws holding the buttons on. Remove those three screws.
3. Now you should be able to remove the digitizer. Go slow starting at the bottom. It is glued all around at heavily glued at the top. I had the pry the top away with small flat screwdriver and a letter opener. Go slowly and eventually it will release. At the top of the glass is the speaker for your ear. It will likely come off with the glass. Remove it and return it to the now empty case centering it in top.
4. Using gloves to prevent prints remove the protective film form your new digitizer. There is a lot of static generated when you do this so keep it away from everything for a minute while it neutralizes. Then place the digitizer in from the top, feed the ribbon through the slot and press the plastic all the way around.
5. Replace the buttons and the screws that retain them.
6. Replace the LCD; you can't screw it up the plastic tabs center the LCD. Just make sure the ribbon is at the bottom.
7. Reverse the instructions in the Russian link at the beginning of the post.
All told it took one hour the first time. I got it all together and then screen didn't light it. I had trouble reconnecting the screen ribbon during assembly so I figured the problem was there. I took the phone apart (to the end of the Russian instructions) and reinserted the screen ribbon into the connecter and then reassembled the phone. It took 10 min to disassemble and reassemble the phone the second time although I didn't have to take apart the screen.
So that's it. It cost me $22.00 for a new digitizer and $10.00 shipping, which is a lot better than a new phone if you don't have insurance and the phone looks like new. If you look very hard you can make out one tiny speck of dust under the glass but it's barely visible; much better than looking at the large V shaped crack I had before.

Hello!
I ordered (and received) a screen AND a digitizer. But there's a thin scotch tape that make the screen+digitizer (in one piece) get stick to the phone. OK, I teared it off.
But, how can I replace this scotch tape??? Much less of 1 mm thick, it seems to be made of foam...
Anyone can help me???????????
Please....

Coucou !
Is there anybody out there?
(Pink Floyd, The Wall, 1979 )

I was sent a Digitizer from Ebay (without LCD). Just for everyone elses benefit, there is no way you can remove the digitizer from the LCD Screen. It's glued down. Maybe it wasn't the case with the older ones, but mine can not be separated, no way!
Taking the phone apart is not too hard, the video instructions are pretty good, but seriously, forget trying to replace the digitizer only.
Here is the video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MrTRPTmoxpw&feature=player_embedded
Cheers, Mal.

If it has the same construction as the HD2, you can put the LCD + digitizer in the oven for 5 minutes at 50 degrees celcius. This was shown in instructions by HTC. Then you can seperate them.

Maybe, but my LCD was glued across the whole screen not just the edges. I'd suggest only buying the Digitizer/LCD combo if you want to do this yourself. If you buy both (as a single piece) the job would be pretty easy.

[Q] xperia play disassembly guide?

Hello!
Has anyone seen a disassembly guide / dismantlling guide for an xperia play? I have had a quick look and havent seen one. A video one would be really good and one that looks at the digitizer / glass would be best for me as I seem to have broken mine already, oops!
Cheers

That sucks.
If you have Rogers they have a replacement policy. I would try that before you take it apart. Good luck. I haven't seen any guides yet. It is a pretty new phone.

You have a teardown here, it may be useful: http://www.ubmtechinsights.com/teardowns/sony-xperia-play-teardown/

I have found this, but would still like to see a video if one exists?
http://www.repairyourmobile.net/sony-ericsson-disassembly/sony-ericsson-xperia-play-disassembly/
Cheers

You can get a brand new OEM Sony Ericsson Touch Digitizer Screen on eBay from here: http://cgi.ebay.ca/OEM-Touch-Digiti...ultDomain_0&hash=item27bb11025c#ht_4868wt_905
I just ordered an OEM Xperia PLAY Black Housing Set from them and it's on its way. Funny how those "takedown" photos don't show you how they disconnected the sliding screen from the gamepad base. I got stuck at that part and have no idea how they were able to remove it. LOL

Rogers replacement policy doesn't give you the same model.... They have designated refurbished models available at no cost per person per life... You can only use it once... Unless the customer support was lying to me, that is what she told me.
Sent from my R800i using XDA App

Have you dealt with rogers before? The have no issue flatout lying to your face. I cant tell you how many times I got screwed over by those ****ers. So I get the feeling you'd be SOL
Sent from my R800i using XDA App

The only reason I switched over to Rogers was to get the Xperia PLAY for $99.99 on a 3 year agreement. I've been with Fido eversince and even though they're owned by Rogers now, I can say that Fido deals with their customers way better than Rogers does. When my 3 year agreement is done I'm going back with Fido. I already network unlocked my Xperia PLAY so if I still have it by then all I have to do is get a Fido SIM card.

Xperia Play disassembly pictures
Hey,
I am in the middle of taking apart my Xperia Play to replace the screen. Now, I got everything separated and taken apart except the screen half. I am having problem removing these silver rivets, which look like screws with a covering but the covering doesn't peel/come off. I have attached pictures of these in hopes that someone knows how to remove them.
Additionally, if anyone has experience replacing an Xperia Play screen, I'd love the advice.
Thanks in advance.
McD

Screen
Hi
Dont take the rivets OFF! If you just slide the control pad part off the metal casing you can get to the 2 screws you need to get to.
I have just finished replacing my screen and it is the scariest screen i have ever replaced as you need to go from back to front lol
I have attached a pic of my finished product, sorry i should of taken photos during it but i was shaking lol

Flava0ne said:
The only reason I switched over to Rogers was to get the Xperia PLAY for $99.99 on a 3 year agreement. I've been with Fido eversince and even though they're owned by Rogers now, I can say that Fido deals with their customers way better than Rogers does. When my 3 year agreement is done I'm going back with Fido. I already network unlocked my Xperia PLAY so if I still have it by then all I have to do is get a Fido SIM card.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I desperately hope that you did not get locked down to a 3 year agreement to just get this phone. As fun as this phone is (and likely to be used long past when I get another phone, just for Emulators and random games), it is not worth a 3 year contract. 2, I can understand. 1 would be more proper. 3 years is nuts in this industry. They have made back their offset of cost within 1.5 years usually.

Video!!
Hi
For anyone else who might benifit from this, here you go:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-3n5ZfkqhzE
Edd

eddieo said:
Hi
For anyone else who might benifit from this, here you go:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-3n5ZfkqhzE
Edd
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for that video link, I think it'll really help other people who might need to do some repairs on their own to their Xperia PLAY. I just wish that I came across that video earlier when I had to disassemble mines, I was so nervous when I was doing it cause all I had to go by where those pictures posted earlier and it left out a whole lot that I had to figure out myself.

Replacing Digitizer
Hello, Flava0ne
Do I have to take entire phone apart to replace digitizer? Is there simpler way to do it? Screen is fine - only digitizer is broken. Can it be removed from the top or bottom top access only?
Thank you

WOW sorry, too many tabs open. Wrong topic!!!
(Disregard this post)

Two questions: How far can you go without breaking a warranty seal and how many internal water damage indicators / liquid sensors are there? I just need to check since they are threatening $300 if they find anything and I work in the cold and frequently see condensation. I do avoid condensation actively and don't even allow it in the bathroom when showering.
---------- Post added at 03:01 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:03 PM ----------
OK, I went as far as I dared by completely taking apart the bottom piece (gamepad, camera, microSD slot, SIM slot, headset/remote jack, primary and secondary microphone, antennas, speakers, microUSB, etc) and, so far, I have found three. It was pretty easy up to this point and I didn't notice any kind of warranty seal.
I just removed all T6 screws from the back and lifted the catches along the bottom (headset/microUSB) side using my fingernail. One corner should be loose and you can start there and slide with no marring (didn't need my plastic pry tool). I don't know why, exactly, but the internal L & R switches are stuck to black adhesive films covering openings in this black piece but I was able to lift and unstick them without touching the films. Anyway, when you remove and flip this piece over, you should see a white square just below the mSD and SIM card slot. It's actually visible through a pinhole on the other side. If it's pink/red, you've got a problem, even if it's caused by condensation (they will still void your warranty for "water damage"). When I touched it, a plastic film on the back slipped off but stuck back on. The whole thing seems like it peels off quite easily.
Anyway, I would wiggle the power button loose before moving on. Next, there are now two tiny cross-head screws that I used a PH00x50 driver on. Yes, one of them was clearly accessible as soon as you removed the battery, but why remove it until you are ready to remove both? Once those are out, let the headphone jack dangle off its ribbon cable and lift the PCB enough to disconnect the display connector from the PCB... just stick something wide and flat in there and twist. Be careful not to damage the tiny ribbon cable that connects the touchpad area from the gamepad because it still needs to be disconnected. Now, this is OPPOSITE of how many larger but similar connectors work, so pay attention: To disconnect it, locate the tiny darker-colored flap of plastic on the opposite side of the connector from where the cable goes in. Lift it from the opposite side toward the side where the cable inserts. It will stand straight up and then you can slide the cable out. If you have to remove it, the headphone/remote jack appears to work the same way.
Anyway, this should completely free the PCB and leave the gamepad shell attached to the display. The gamepad shell should be free from the front half of the phone now as well, leaving only the sliding metal mounting bracket.
Now, a couple of interesting things here: I can clearly tell that one of the T6 screws by the volume button was protruding too far and caused a visible sliding scratch on the underside of my top shell. It may make sense to loosen these a bit on a new phone before this happens. You can also see if imperfections in the white Teflon sliding bumps are causing scratches on the front (my first phone did not, my second did in no time).
Now, let's go back to the gamepad faceplate. The buttons should easily fall out if you want them too, but I was only interested in finding the water sensors and here are two more: one is right by the microphone hole and the other in diagonally opposite under the Playstation Certified logo. They look identical to the one on the back piece.
I'm sure that there is at least one in the LCD assembly as well, but mine is well sealed and I didn't want to lift any of those silvery-gray stickers covering the screws when I have a warranty replacement on the way. I've gone far enough to satisfy my curiosity.
---------- Post added at 03:51 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:01 PM ----------
A couple notes on re-assembly:
As expected, it's a bit more difficult, especially because you don't have leverage to reconnect the display when it is in place. The last fold of the cable it supposed to fit UNDER the metal bracket and the slide mechanism doesn't really work if it isn't (a certain panel will not slide back if it is not folded under). I'm not sure how it affects it but it does. You will need a thin, long, flat utensil like a plastic butter knife or something to either A) provide leverage to connect the connector or B) tuck the cable back under the bracket after connecting it. You need to have already connected the touchpads and oriented the gamepad faceplate around/under the bracket, though it will not be secured. The phone also needs to be in the open position. When you tuck the cable under, slide it to the closed position and back. If the cable seated properly, the PCB and gamepad faceplate should sit pretty flat and should no longer be falling off of the bracket even though it isn't really secured.
The D-pad needs to be arranged properly as well. One side is cut. If you look closely, there are three holes in the four inner corners that align with three plus-shaped pegs, so you can't get it wrong if you pay attention.
The power/lock button isn't going to stay in place until you secure the bottom housing, so leave it off until just before you are ready to do that to avoid losing it.
Be careful not to seal dust in the camera lens. Don't forget to put the cross-head screws back before you do the back housing because you can't easily access one. Remember to keep the four black screws by the L, R, and volume buttons a little loose if you had a problem with them scratching the other half of the phone.
Be sure to download the Xperia Play test program from the Google Market and verify that all buttons and touch inputs function properly.
I'll be sure to wear my Looxcie next time.

I feel sorry for you blokes taking apart the xperia
it's going to be a royal pain in the ass. especially when you reach that "point"
the point where you have **** all over the table and you are like god how did i get this deep into disassembly
then the part when you are shaking / nervous about breaking a part, or worse yet. you end up breaking it. i would be real scared lol.
all i can say is go real slow. REAL slow
and if anything wont move. dont force it lol

Hogwarts said:
I feel sorry for you blokes taking apart the xperia
it's going to be a royal pain in the ass. especially when you reach that "point"
the point where you have **** all over the table and you are like god how did i get this deep into disassembly
then the part when you are shaking / nervous about breaking a part, or worse yet. you end up breaking it. i would be real scared lol.
all i can say is go real slow. REAL slow
and if anything wont move. dont force it lol
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Maybe I've just taken apart too many laptops and gadgets before but I never felt that way when I got the back piece completely apart... or maybe "that point" is only after you get into the front assembly. I did the rear in bed with the screws laying on the covers beside me and didn't even lose the arrangement of a single one.
Anyway, moments after getting my RMA replacement shipped email notification this morning, I dropped my R800at that is supposed to be getting sent back and now the touch digitizer is shattered. I've ordered a replacement but I'm hoping that I'll be sending it back with the original from the RMA replacement. Does anyone know if the R800a or R800at will fit a R800 Z1i chassis? These are all over eBay. Also, is there any tamper seal? I understand that there are screws under the silver/gray stickers on the front piece but those look easy enough to reapply.
Did I mention that they wanted to turn my RMA down for the flaking paint on the front buttons alone? The night before I called to RMA for an alarm issue (two days ago), the battery door cracked right at the pry point. I remove it more often than most because I carry a second official battery and a Sony Ericsson EP900 charger, so it failed under normal wear-and-tear, but they wanted to say that I couldn't RMA for my main issue (alarm dismisses itself) because of that EVEN THOUGH THE RMA UNITS DON'T INCLUDE A BATTERY COVER!
Damn. Sony Ericsson can be picky. I babied the thing and only just now dropped it. Perhaps AT&T is a little too cautious with the terms of Sony's warranty (it is processed through them but the rules come from Sony).

CZroe said:
Maybe I've just taken apart too many laptops and gadgets before but I never felt that way when I got the back piece completely apart... or maybe "that point" is only after you get into the front assembly. I did the rear in bed with the screws laying on the covers beside me and didn't even lose the arrangement of a single one.
Anyway, moments after getting my RMA replacement shipped email notification this morning, I dropped my R800at that is supposed to be getting sent back and now the touch digitizer is shattered. I've ordered a replacement but I'm hoping that I'll be sending it back with the original from the RMA replacement. Does anyone know if the R800a or R800at will fit a R800 Z1i chassis? These are all over eBay. Also, is there any tamper seal? I understand that there are screws under the silver/gray stickers on the front piece but those look easy enough to reapply.
Did I mention that they wanted to turn my RMA down for the flaking paint on the front buttons alone? The night before I called to RMA for an alarm issue (two days ago), the battery door cracked right at the pry point. I remove it more often than most because I carry a second official battery and a Sony Ericsson EP900 charger, so it failed under normal wear-and-tear, but they wanted to say that I couldn't RMA for my main issue (alarm dismisses itself) because of that EVEN THOUGH THE RMA UNITS DON'T INCLUDE A BATTERY COVER!
Damn. Sony Ericsson can be picky. I babied the thing and only just now dropped it. Perhaps AT&T is a little too cautious with the terms of Sony's warranty (it is processed through them but the rules come from Sony).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've always said this phone is cheaply made and now i have more proof
mine came brand new out of the box with a blemish on the screen
I'm not picky so i just kept it.
Its a blemish in the LCD screen not the digitizer or glass
and yeah the cheap ass plastic assembly is not helping either.
they should have used aluminum or something. more durable

OK, so I finished the job. I did not see any more water indicators in the top shell and I did not find a single tamper-resistant label in the entire device. I left the slider assembly intact (I think it's riveted) and I didn't peel the flex PCB out of the top shell or off of the touchoads, but it was what anyone would consider "fully disassembled." I seem to have misplaced my camera but video will be coming when I find and edit it.

Broken Screen - Which part should i buy?

My GF broke the screen on her Droid Incredible, Verizon insurance wants $100 to replace it, so not sure it is worth it for this phone, and she has a few months left before her upgrade is ready. If i am going to try to fix it for her, can anyone with experience tell me what parts specifically I would need? The LCD seems fine, so i would think i can replace just the digitizer, which i can get on Amazon for $16
http://www.amazon.com/Incredible-Sc...ement-Adhesives/dp/B005TGX6X8/ref=pd_cp_cps_0
They also sell with front housing
http://www.amazon.com/Touch-Screen-Glass-Digitizer-Incredible/dp/B005L0XRRM/ref=pd_cp_cps_1
any tips which to buy or what to do etc?
Why would one/How does one know if they need to replace the LCD as well?
All touch aspects of phone working fine and seems like it's just the glass cracked.

Dillsnik said:
My GF broke the screen on her Droid Incredible, Verizon insurance wants $100 to replace it, so not sure it is worth it for this phone, and she has a few months left before her upgrade is ready. If i am going to try to fix it for her, can anyone with experience tell me what parts specifically I would need? The LCD seems fine, so i would think i can replace just the digitizer, which i can get on Amazon for $16
http://www.amazon.com/Incredible-Sc...ement-Adhesives/dp/B005TGX6X8/ref=pd_cp_cps_0
They also sell with front housing
http://www.amazon.com/Touch-Screen-Glass-Digitizer-Incredible/dp/B005L0XRRM/ref=pd_cp_cps_1
any tips which to buy or what to do etc?
Why would one/How does one know if they need to replace the LCD as well?
All touch aspects of phone working fine and seems like it's just the glass cracked.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I am no expert, but it would seem that if anything under the glass was broken, you would need to replace the lcd (that is, if you could see the lcd "leaking" or being distorted)
Sent from my ARCHOS 80G9 using Tapatalk 2

Nothing under the screen seems broken.
Anyone done this?
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I717 using Tapatalk

Dillsnik said:
Nothing under the screen seems broken.
Anyone done this?
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I717 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Unfortunately I have had the pleasure of replacing my digitizer twice. You definitely wanna buy it WITH the frame or housing. The adhesive is like industrial strength and you will end up breaking the original anyways when trying to remove the digitizer from it. I have to warn you that doing this repair yourself will void your warranty. Make sure the digitizer you get comes with the tools required to get the phone apart. You can get this as a package on eBay fairly cheap too. There are about 3-4 circuit strips that will have to be removed from their clips, don't be intimidated by them, but be gentle. Your first time is gonna take you a while, just be patient. If you need to do it a second time, its gonna be a breeze. PM me if you have any concerns during your repair.

yea get a digitizer also,
I had the same thing happen to me, it was a pain but there are a few videos on youtube
that should help you through it, though it doesn't sound like its that bad

Definitely go with the digitizer and housing replacement together. Bottom line, it will make your life so much less of a headache while replacing it.
Sent from my ADR6300 using XDA

I just replaced mine this weekend. I attached some before, during, and after pictures...
These were the guides that I followed:
Part 1: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TfpPS7oO4Q8
Part 2: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GJMAmKpk20c
Personally, I went with just the glass/digitizer (your first link) and it went fine. The glass is difficult to get out of the housing, but it's not that bad. It probably took me 20 minutes to get the old glass out, maybe 5 minutes of cleaning goo from the old adhesive, and probably another 5 minutes to put the new glass back on.
Some Tips:
The pry tool that comes with it is very cheap. I would suggest using it sparingly until you get to the LCD panel extraction and glass removal. You want it to be as in good of condition as can be when you get to those later steps.
Use a blow-drier to heat up the adhesive, and get it to the point where you almost cant touch it. I used some yellow kitchen gloves so I could get it a little hotter and still be able to hold it. I used a combination of my hands and the pry tool and worked mostly along the sides and top first, then separated the bottom last.
The guy in the youtube videos uses glue, but you shouldn't need that. It comes with pre-cut adhesive strips, which work great. One word of caution though... The sheet that they come on is scored for you, but I suggest using an x-acto to cut them out. This is especially important for the thin rectangle that goes around the outside of the glass. You really don't want to pull on that... you don't want it to get stretched or twisted. Summary: the strips work great, just be careful extracting them from the sheet they come on, and placing them on the phone.
Don't forget to get the red earpiece grill off of the old glass before throwing it away. You'll need to super glue that back onto the housing, but it's really easy to see where it goes. This should be the only thing you need glue for.
When removing the glass, cleaning up gunk from the old adhesive, and applying new adhesive, be careful of the electronics at the bottom for your capacitive buttons... you definitely don't want to harm or obstruct those.
This should probably go without saying, but make sure not to touch the inside of the new glass, or the LCD panel. You don't want fingerprints or dust inside the phone. Even if you don't touch it, I would still give it a shot of compressed air right before putting it in, just to make sure there's no dust.
I would say that it's probably worth the extra $10-12 bucks to get it with the housing already included, but it's definitely not necessary if you want to save a little money. As I said above, it only took me about a half hour to get the old glass out and the new glass in, and from what it sounds like, there is still some effort involved even if you get it with the housing (moving the circuitry from the old one). I wouldn't worry about breaking the frame... it's pretty strong. If you break it, you're doing it wrong. Although, if your frame has some scrapes and other assorted road rash on it like mine does (see first picture), then maybe you might want a new one anyway. Another consideration... the reviews on Amazon for the one without the housing are much better, but that could just be because of people who don't know what they're doing... who knows.
If you have any questions, I'd certainly be willing to help... PM me if you want. And if I'm going to be around when you go to actually do the replacement, I can give you my gchat address in case you have any questions during the process.

Cracked screen

Hello!
Today dropped my phone and screen got covered in spider web. The display itself looks fine, but its covered it spiderweb. The touchscreen doesnt respond at all.
What do i need to do now? I looked at local repair shops, they ask atleast 100 euros. But on ebay i can find lcd display+screen digitizer for 55 euros shipped, or screen digitizer starting from 10 dollars!
Can i buy only screen digitizer (as i understand that top layer of glass thats cracked is screen digitizer?) and replace it? Or changing LCD display along with screen digitizer is a must?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NOIR-VITRE-...Pièces_de_rechange_outils&hash=item27f98e5d31
So this should fit..right? And are all 3 models LS970, E975 and e973 really same size? Cuz i`ve read people have got smaller screens than original from some sellers on amazon.

Replacing a digitizer is pretty hard and time consuming, that's why people usually replace the whole lcd+digitizer+glass assembly. You will also need adhesive and a heater/appropriate tools. It can be a great learning experience if you don't mind potentially busting your phone. There are no shortage of instructionnal videos on youtube on the subject.
Also, a new G2 is only 190$US .... Just saying ...

noxlord said:
Replacing a digitizer is pretty hard and time consuming, that's why people usually replace the whole lcd+digitizer+glass assembly. You will also need adhesive and a heater/appropriate tools. It can be a great learning experience if you don't mind potentially busting your phone. There are no shortage of instructionnal videos on youtube on the subject.
Also, a new G2 is only 190$US .... Just saying ...
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Click to collapse
As i have two other phones. The g2 mini with Tegra and a razrHD. I'll give a try, thanks for the tip.

Well, i ended up ordering that LCD+Digitzer from ebay. Everything was fine for 2 months, now i have quite large spot that doesnt respond to touches. (See attachment) i already tried disconecting the lcd and digitizer..still same. Is it worth trying to flash another rom? I already flashed stock kdz (had stock before too..)
This happened just today, right after ghost touches went crazy and rondomly oppening everything.
EDIT: That spot is changing sizes..form remains, but it got a bit smaller now. Its truly weird. I put the phone outside for few minutes (its +9C outside) and touchscreen works fine now! What is going on?
EDIT 2: After few minutes of usage, the spot is coming back

WreckLv said:
EDIT: That spot is changing sizes..form remains, but it got a bit smaller now. Its truly weird. I put the phone outside for few minutes (its +9C outside) and touchscreen works fine now! What is going on?
EDIT 2: After few minutes of usage, the spot is coming back
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I had dropped my LG (more than a couple of times) on its face and it seemed to suffer stroke-like symptoms: one side of the screen was completely dead to touch, and the rest of the screen would occasionally act as though I was touching everywhere which opened programs and messed with the keyboard. I was stubborn and just lived with it and over time, it stopped trying open programs and whatnot. Recently, dropped it again, this time it was a bit more serious. Still no visible damage to the screen, but the "dead spot" moved to the centre of the screen, and again, occasionally tries to open programs and add words to my messages.
At first I thought it all could be related to a software issue. Unfortunately, after installing new ROMS, it never fixed the problem. I bought a digitaliser screen from Ebay as well. I'm waiting on the adhesive tape still so I can't say if this will fix anything. I kind of have a suspicion that its a loose connector (the top middle part of the screen gets super hot only after a couple of minutes of being left on).
I'm just wondering if you have tried taking it apart again to recheck the wiring? I think we may have similar problems (your situation is the first I've come by on the internet that is anywhere close to what's happening to my screen). Thanks so much!