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Just a very quick review of my Easecase E5 which arrived about a week ago.
You can see pictures of it by search eBay for "Easecase E5 galaxy note" (without quotes), there's one here : http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/E5-EASECA..._MobilePhonesCasesPouches&hash=item5ae4059699
(I did get a bit of a shock when I saw that - that is my actual one - with my name on it, I was just searching for one at random)
Delivery time:
As mentioned in other parts of this forum, delivery times for Easecase are pretty woeful. I ordered on the 25th of November and, it arrived here a few days over a month later in Sweden. The problem seems to be largely that they ship via China Post which is quit slow - they dispatched it (with trackable* shipping) within about a week. I bought it through eBay, so I am not sure if they have another outlet, and, they make it very clear on their eBay items that they will take a looong time to ship, so, I can't take any points off them there.
Build quality:
It is beautifully put together. There's a slot running down the inner spine for the stylus, and my name is embossed on the front. I would characterise it as high quality.
Outside:
I opted for the magnetic clasp. It isn't a very strong magnet, but does the job.
Apart from the clasp, there's just the embossing on the outside, and, a neat seam around the edge.
Inside:
There are 2 bill pockets inside, both of which are *very* deep. They're about as deep as the note is high.
When it is fully opened, there are 5 credit card pockets on the left. Note that these seem to be individual pockets, separated from each other internally. Cards fit vertically into these pockets. The front of the pockets stretches a bit over 2 thirds of the way from the far left of the case to the spine. Behind the pockets is a sleeve about 1/3 wider than the short side of a credit card where you could fold bank notes* (remember this, I'll come back to it.
As I said, along the inner spine is slot for the stylus.
On the right is where the not goes. It slots in (quite snugly) from the top. The top is open, so you can get to the headphone port. There's a hole in the left for the volume control, a hole in the right for the power button, and, a hole in the bottom for access to the USB port.
Looking at the front, the home and hardware buttons are all accessible as part of the screen area. They've also neatly cut out around the top speaker and, the front camera.
Protection:
Very good. If the magnetic clasp doesn't come undone during a fall, then, it'd be very hard to break the screen. It is nice thick leather, and you might even be able to drop a brick on it when closed without breaking the screen.
It still won't help you if you drop it in the toilet as some poor chap here has apparently done.
Usage:
It is very bulky. Like one of those filofax jobs people used to (still?) have.
I'm used to big gadgets, so I cope, but you wouldn't get it into tight jeans pockets. I do squeeze it, with some discomfort into my front trousers pocket.
You don't want to talk on the phone with the cover on for more than brief calls, you look like an idiot. Most of the time I pull it out of the cover for calls, or, use a bluetooth headset.
Using the rear camera requires removing from the cover.
General browsing/emailing etc is fine with the cover on.
Fortunately removing the phone is a fairly quick procedure, as is putting it back it. I imagine it'll get easier still as the leather stretches a touch.
One annoyance is, as the leather reaches right to the top of the touch screen, if the phone slips up slightly, it can be difficult or impossible to pull down the notifications bar. When in landscape, this isn't an issue as the phone can't move left/right in the case.
Summary/thoughts:
I wish I'd bought the one without the bank note pockets. That'd reduce the bulk considerably and you could still stick notes behind your cards (see * above). You can also use the rear facing camera with the non-bank note version (E4).
On balance, I am pleased I bought it though, it is of high quality and, it is great having your phone and wallet all in the one thing - it also means you can ring your wallet to find it when you are in a hurry to head to work
If anyone has any questions, I'd be happy to answer them.
My recommendation for anyone thinking of getting one of these is to get the E4 and not this.
They don't seem to have any E4's on eBay at the moment for the note, but I am sure I have seen one there. Here's one for the Desire HD - I am sure it gets the point across.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/E4-EASECA...sesPouches&hash=item5647be7cbf#ht_5657wt_1016
Cheers,
Kent
kentmartin said:
You don't want to talk on the phone with the cover on for more than brief calls, you look like an idiot. Most of the time I pull it out of the cover for calls, or, use a bluetooth headset.
One annoyance is, as the leather reaches right to the top of the touch screen, if the phone slips up slightly, it can be difficult or impossible to pull down the notifications bar. When in landscape, this isn't an issue as the phone can't move left/right in the case.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Two quick thoughts:
1) When calling, can't you fold the case cover back 180 degrees?
2) Some launchers (adwlauncher does this) allow to swipe down anywhere to lower the notification bar, so you don't need to touch the very top.
- Frank
ChodTheWacko said:
Two quick thoughts:
1) When calling, can't you fold the case cover back 180 degrees?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No, the banknotes pockets kind of open so it gets more bulky and wants to spring back to about 180 degrees (where 0 is closed, 180 is wide open and 360 is the position you suggest), but I suspect you could with the E4 model.
2) Some launchers (adwlauncher does this) allow to swipe down anywhere to lower the notification bar, so you don't need to touch the very top.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes - I read about that setting a while back, but have never used it, thanks for reminding me - it is now enabled for the swipe down gesture (hide dock was annoying me anyway).
Hi, thanks for the review, i've been stuck deciding between the E5 and the E4, due to the E5 having the bill slot, which i would think is really good compared to folding the bills under the cards.
Can you take a picture of the case when it's fully loaded, both open and closed?
e.g. all card slots used, and the bills folded and slotted under the cards
That would probably help sway my decision, if that slot + cards do not bulk up the entire wallet.
More info // pics in my thread. http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1419678
I love those case, but it's sucks when they cost so much!
It's should be 10$ max.
peanuts and monkeys
i hope to order this case by the end of this month, i've emailed them some questions on customisation, hopefully it's permitted, then can go forward with this.
the E5 with wallet style slot is definitely too bulky. I bought one for my Desire HD with modified size to fit the DHD with Otterbox. After receiving it, tested once with DHD and sit in my drawer collecting dust ever since.
EvoFighter said:
the E5 with wallet style slot is definitely too bulky. I bought one for my Desire HD with modified size to fit the DHD with Otterbox. After receiving it, tested once with DHD and sit in my drawer collecting dust ever since.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ya know I thought the same thing at first, but I just got a pack of 3 extra batteries and I find I can put two of em in the wallet and also a cleaning cloth and everything fits great.
In terms of customizations I wonder if a small bit for some change could be added.
Its beautiful.
Easecase E5 looks good.
This is a genuine leather case, and very good quality construction. They also responded well to my customization request (I wanted a 65mm horizontal belt loop added to mine).
Only $10 max is out of the question. Worth 3 to 4 times that much. It includes branding of your own name as well. It's a very classy leather case/wallet.
Could you please share a photo were the Note is next to the case just to compare the size of the case?
Hey great review. I really love the customization of these cases and I recently bought a galaxy note us version from ATT so ive been doing some research for a quality wallet type case for my note (will arrive monday) I was just wondering, would this case or the E4 case which is what ill probably get be fine for the american ATT version. Im pretty sure the dimensions are about the same but im not so sure about the button placements or the charger placements.
The only thing I dont like is the shipping time but not much I can do about it but this case seems to be the best so far that ive found besides the vintage leather case but those dont come in black and have magnetic strips.
Any reply would be appreciated.
So just to recap - will my US ATT galaxy Note i717 be a good match with this case?
dreamstealer2045 said:
Hey great review. I really love the customization of these cases and I recently bought a galaxy note us version from ATT so ive been doing some research for a quality wallet type case for my note (will arrive monday) I was just wondering, would this case or the E4 case which is what ill probably get be fine for the american ATT version. Im pretty sure the dimensions are about the same but im not so sure about the button placements or the charger placements.
The only thing I dont like is the shipping time but not much I can do about it but this case seems to be the best so far that ive found besides the vintage leather case but those dont come in black and have magnetic strips.
Any reply would be appreciated.
So just to recap - will my US ATT galaxy Note i717 be a good match with this case?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
When I dealt with them, I found them quite responsive, I suggest asking them if it'll fit the i717 - odds on if it doesn't they'll have one that does even if they haven't advertised it yet.
Although I haven't seen it, I'd definitely recommend the E4 over the E5 - I find I don't really need the slots for notes (you can slip folded notes in the bit behind where credit cards go anyway) and, it the banknote pockets block the camera (by necessity) which drives me a bit mad.
__NOTE:__
Project is more or less finished. If you want to get in contact with me, it would be best to PM me. Also, there is a .step file on page 12 if your 3d printer can't do meshes.
Hello everybody and welcome!
Info
The Andraxis project is 3d-printable mount/clamp/dock/holder thing that, when paired with the awesome Android Sixaxis controller tool, will allow you to turn your Android phone into a real mobile game platform.
The project can be bought from www.shapeways.com, I will be doing my best to keep its cost under $30 USD.
This project is going to be funded entirely by donations. That means on the Shapeways shop, I am not going to get a single penny of profit from each one sold. This ALSO means if I don't get any donations, I won't be able to improve on the design. The total cost for each revision I make for myself, living in Japan, is going to be $30 + $20 shipping. If you want to help me out, any amount of money will help. Just click on the "donate" button to the left, or send some money to my paypal account: [email protected]
What you will need:
Two standard 3mm screws. These are the same screws you can find in your PC case. One is to fasten the dock around the sixaxis controller, the other is used to lock the telescoping arm into position.
Some rubber tack or foam tape. Or if your cellphone has a silicone case, that might do just fine as well. Essentially, you need something that will give it extra traction to reduce the risk of slippage.
The Android Sixaxis controller tool, or some way for your phone to read the input from your sixaxis controller (can't Android 4.0 do that natively now?).
A sixaxis controller. If this project takes off, I might make different versions for other 3rd party controllers as long as they work on the software front. If you have a 3rd party controller you want to work with, give me its dimensions and as long as it doesn't require a drastic redesign I'll see what I can do.
Post-production:
The material used his highly porous and has a rough, gritty texture. The white, undyed material yellows somewhat when exposed to ultraviolet light (read: sunlight). Because of the porous and gritty texture, it also traps dirt and grime very easily. Pretty much, don't expect it to stay pristine and clean without any post-production methods. I hear varnish works well, but there's a whole section devoted to post-production at the Shapeways forum. I haven't experimented with the pre-dyed material yet, maybe it will fare better without any post-production.
Additionally, a number of the tighter interactions will need to be worked a few times to smooth them out. Examples being the locking clasp for the arm hinge and the sliding mechanism for the telescoping arm.
UPDT 11/8/2012
Looking at the competition (Gameclip, Icontrolpad 2), I would say my project is no longer "first there". So unless I come up with an awesome revision idea, there will probably be no more updates to the project.
As I originally planned from the start, along with the ending of this project, I will also be releasing the source so anybody who wishes to make their own modifications can do so themselves (or if they simply want to study it, though I'm terrible at notating stuff, sorry).
The file format is a .3dm file, this is a Rhino3d NURBS modeling filetype. If you can't use Rhino3d, you could still get the .stl file from the Shapeways website.
UPDT 5/23/2012
Due to a large number of pieces getting lost in the printing process, the project is now all one piece, with the arm boom attached to the main body by a small pip. A razor is required to get everything to fit together perfectly.
Just to clarify, Shapeways have been incredible with printing and sending replacements when they lose pieces, but it's inconvenient for everybody involved so I changed the design to minimize these complications.
Revision history:
Note: "Blind" means I haven't received that particular version yet, so I cannot comment on first-hand experience.
Revision 3
- Blind, but no major design changes so it should be fully functional.
URL: http://shpws.me/73sc
MODIFICATIONS:
- Connected the separate arm to the body by a small pip. If getting it clean is too time consuming or difficult, I could work with orientation; my initial intention is to make things easier on the Shapeways crew by making sure Andraxis doesn't take up much printer space when they're printing them.
- Added a little stand in the back. I pretty much eyeballed the dimensions so it's not guaranteed to work, but it should be fairly easy to remove if you have the right tools and it's not doing it's job and just annoying you.
- Shortened the bottom graspers. In my own experience having them extend over the face buttons sometimes meant they got in the way when playing games. Shouldn't be a problem any more, and with how sturdy the grippers are when given foam tape or a silicone case, I'm not worried about decreased gripping power.
Revision 2
- BLIND, though I didn't make any drastic changes to the design so it should work just fine.
- Shapeways link
REV. 2 DESIGN MODIFICATIONS:
- Added a screw hole to the side of the telescoping arm. This should allow it to be more pocketable, without having a big screw sticking out and making its pocket profile larger.
Revision 1 - Updated! 02/24/2012
- Received and fully functional!
- Shop url
REV. 1 OUTSTANDING ISSUES:
- The 2mm size correction from rev. 0 worked perfectly for the length of the project, but the thickness was not needed so now there is an extra 2mm of thickness. This can easily be corrected by foam tape or blue tack for now, doing so still makes it nice and tight. Will take 1mm off the thickness (going slowly to avoid having another non-working model).
- The 0.2mm correction for the sleeve was not enough. That or the dying process I experimented with trying out made the extending arm "swell" a bit. This is probably the biggest concern for rev.1 and is something you should consider if you don't want to wait for rev. 2. A good 30 minutes of sanding and "working" the telescoping mechanism should make it somewhat serviceable, but its still way too tight to expect it to work well for smaller phones. Will change it to a 0.5mm total correction.
- The support walls to the extended lower gripping prongs were mistakenly made a little thin. Its not a huge concern but since the prongs protrude out so much I want to make them as robust as possible. Will change from 1mm to 1.5mm. For those curious, the lower gripping prongs are now a total of 79mm wide. From my testing this has proven to be more than sufficient to hold the cellphone in place.
- The screw hole on the front clasp was made a little too deep. Its still perfectly serviceable (and able to hold it shut despite having two layers of foam tape padding the spaces between the controller and the project), but fixing this will make the clasp even more robust.
- The project information engraved on Rev. 1 is difficult to read. Will switch it to an emboss as what Rev. 0 was.
Other notes
- The screw holes are now a little tight. Unfortunately, a difference of 0.25mm is in the range of "random variance by the 3d printing process" so I don't think I would accomplish much by re-sizing it by 0.125mm. Its not a concern for the clasp screw hole because people aren't going to be unscrewing it all that often, but it might make the locking mechanism a bit of a pain to utilize. I'll keep it the size it is for now and observe if the screw hole gets easier to work with time.
Revision 0
- RECEIVED. Youtube video.
- Non-public.
REV. 0 OUTSTANDING ISSUES:
- The telescoping arm is too tight and its a real pain to insert into the sleeve. Added 0.2mm of clearance.
- The smaller screw hole is too small for any screws. On the other hand, the larger screw hole fits standard 3mm screws perfectly (they're the ones you would find on your PC case, for example). Removed the small screw hole, and resized the larger one by making it 0.25mm smaller to give it extra grip.
- The curves from the analog sticks are not high enough, and the face plate doesn't fit very well.
- Additionally, the hole for the Playstation button is too high. The face plate has been adjusted accordingly.
- The lower gripping prongs are too close-set and they don't extend out long enough. Adjusted from extending 6mm out, to 10mm. Widened the grip on each of the lower prongs from 10mm to 25mm.
- The clasp in the front is not needed. Replaced it with a screw hole.
- Despite having given extra space generously, the whole fit of the holder is way too tight around the controller. Added 2mm of clearance on all dimensions.
Other notes:
- The snap-in mechanism for the telescoping arm is a little stiff, but it works perfectly after its been worked a few times.
- The holder is designed to be used with rubber tack for extra traction (or a silicone phone case). The phone slipped out of the holster at the end of the video because I haven't gone to the store to get some tack just yet.
____
Disclaimer:
As you might expect, I take no responsibility if your cellphone drops out and cracks, or if the latest blind revision for some reason doesn't work (if you get missing parts, if the joint fuses, or if there are any other problems that are obviously the result of the printing technology, contact Shapeways and they should straighten things out). As long as I am able to, I intend to address any design issues that may come out, but especially in the early stages of this project you shouldn't expect a 100% working product.
BIG THANKS to:
xda user moviecut for sending a donation before I even had a working version to show!
Okay I'll post here from now, so far great.
Photo of rev1: http://img341.imageshack.us/img341/3389/andraxis.jpg
Will revise v101 this weekend.
When I get my hands on it, I'll test the "SIXAXIS App" on the NOTE with the Datel Turbo Fire 2.
If everything working fine, I'll take accurate* measurements of it for you and we'll PM.
If I'm satisfied with it, I will buy and post one of those to you to. Talk to you later
Okay Rev0 has been great, but it *needs* a design change.
Basically it needs a better way of latching the phone to the cradle [MAJOR], and a comfy fir of the cradle to the controller [MINOR].
#1) What I had in mind, after the plastic is made, the inner-sides of the cradle that make contact to the phone needs to be stickied with a "breathing foam" AKA SCOTCH TAPE!!
This can be had at any arts & craft stores, most newsagents and also at hardware (tool) stores. I usually see them in cheap Chinese stores and local retailers.
Scotch Tape:
http://image.made-in-china.com/2f0j00QBiaTJtEIhqo/Scoth-Tape.jpg
That increases grip to the device, adds more presure for snuggly fit.
#2) Securing the phone in to a "base".
The easiest way to do this is to have a backplate and a frontplate. The backplate we already have, and that is the adjustable arm.
The frontplate is easily accomplished by giving the base a 5mm frame towards the front of the device. This prevents it from falling forwards. This frame needs to be duplicated on the top side of the cradle (the adjustable arm).
Regular: http://img263.imageshack.us/img263/2761/sixaxis.png
Base: http://img823.imageshack.us/img823/7282/sixaxis2.png
The reason for this is because the cradle needs a "base". What I mean by that, is that the phone needs to rest on this peice of plastic. So far the device's top and bottom movement are restricted.
#3) The biggest challenge is that all Android phones come with different thickness, so how thick does the base need to be ??
But I've been on a Google-rampage and found out all the sizes. Basically the thickest Android devices are ~11mm. But just to be sure we need to assume 12mm. For the base:
Naked phone = 12mm (tight/snugly fit depending on phone).
Naked phone + scotch tape (on both inner sides) = 12mm (very tight fit)
Naked phone + scotch tape (on both inner sides) = 14mm (snugly fit).
Silicon cased phone (no scotch) = 14mm
Silicon cased phone + scotch tape (on both inner sides) = 17mm (snugly fit).
Now the front and back movements are restricted too.
#4) Securing the phone further.
So the phone won't fall back, front, up or down....but it can still slide left and right.
Solution: place a rigid block on one-end to secure. It doesn't matter which of the two sides, as illustration I've put the right side. I've done this by adding the block to both the base (bottom) and the adjustable arm (top). Its basically 15mm of vertical plastic (that needs scotch tape). The device still *can* slip to one angle; but the position of the device, tightening of the arm and grip of the scotch tape will prevent that.
Rigid Block-er: http://img607.imageshack.us/img607/3097/sixaxis3.png
Why not both sides?
To prevent fragmentation, so that nearly all android phones/MIDs can slot inside this cradle.
#5) The Adjusting Arm.
Now that we know the general layout/features lets contemplate on one of the most (structurally) important aspects of the cradle, the adjusting arm.
The current rev0 does the job, but it does it poorly. We need it to be strong enough to last 12+ months of wear and tear and prevent phone falling.
I think a suitable means would be to have a " rail system " which you see on most Universal Phone Holders. Its basically two plastic bits slotting into each other like a zipper, examples:
Front: http://img207.imageshack.us/img207/939/adjarm1.jpg
Back: http://img651.imageshack.us/img651/4254/adjarm2.jpg
Neat: http://img208.imageshack.us/img208/6430/adjarm3.jpg
Since one arm (the base) is stable/unmoving, it basically means there is only ONE moving part. This means that piece can be made larger, thicker, and sturdier... meaning it will be even more DURABLE than those Universal Phone Holders.
#6) Finishing touches.
Now I've experimented with the SGS and the SGNOTE and the most ideal angle I found was ~ 45'
-So the base needs to holster the phone on a 45' angle against the controller, this allows your index fingers room for the R + L buttons but also points the display direct to you.
-And the " PS " button needs to be exposed so it can be pushed readily, but the " Pause " and " Start " buttons can be covered up.
-The plastic should wrap around the controller tightly but not choke it, so the dimensions need to accurated as best as possible (Note: most Sixaxis controllers will have same dimensions, very little variance)
-Varnish needs to be applied to keep the plastic strong, but a (better) alternative would be black paint as it will also make the plastic colour match the Sixaxis and most (black) phones.
As you can see, the Official PlayStation 3 Keyboard slots over the controller like the current method. However it fits much tighter/cleaner/superior to yours because it shapes around the contours. The rev2 needs to mimick this.
Snugly Wrap: http://img684.imageshack.us/img684/6828/sixaxis4.png
I design things on Paper + Pen, have no experience whatsoever with 3D Object Tools.
But I wanted to try, so here's draft 1 (first attempt) at Andraxis / PlayDroid:
-I don't have an accurate measuring apparatus, so things are as accurate as my ruler
Things missing:
-The joint arm at the front for the cradle to be screwed in
-The adjustable (rear) arm not created yet
-Proper implementation of things (group the holes to the box, group the base, and group the adjustable arm)
Problems:
-How to visualize/create the adjustable arm like those Universal Phone Holders
Anyways here's the link:
https://tinkercad.com/things/2pqYnbHJpFl
P.S. What did you design your build on, Tinkercad?
I think we should try to use the same 3D Tool, so that its easy for you to edit what I do and me to you....so that we can get the best + accurate structure!
Thanks for your continued interest.
As I mentioned in the first post, it is not designed to hold the phone "naked", either the phone needs to have a silicone case, or rubber tack needs to be applied. Foam tape looks like it could do the job as well, but I think rubber tack would offer much better traction and be much more flexible (rev. 1 has a groove in the telescoping arm where you could apply a bit of tack to add some grip to the back of the phone, for example).
As for ways of adding more grip, I feel eventually I will extend the bottom gripping prongs all the way across the controller, at least until it hits the triangle button (at its current state extending past that would partially cover it up). It will probably slowly evolve into that though as I need to make sure I observe the contours of the controller, and judging by how badly rev. 0 fits I can't rely on measurement alone.
I was thinking of adding a pair of horizontal telescoping arms as well. I think I could get it to fit without interfering with any of the core design mechanics.
The device's angle is set at 45 degrees. It feels right, though maybe a more obtuse angle would be preferable to some. Once I get a working model I'll think more on this.
One constraint I have to be constantly aware of is cost; the 3d printing service charges by volume, so adding too many features, or making the features too robust (like the Nokia example you posted) could easily bring the price to the $40-50 range.
With that said, the material is incredibly strong and wall thickness of 3mm is more than enough to withstand any kind of abuse. I broke off the bottom portion of the front clasp to get a better idea of what measurements need to be extended, and it actually took a few tries before it gave.
As for the PlayDroid, all I really need are measurements and I will adjust the fit of the Andraxis. The whole thing is modeled in Rhino3d, which is basically a NURBS modeling program that shares a lot of design concepts with AutoCAD, so its pretty well suited for this sort of stuff. Anyway, I'll just grab the .stl from Tinkercard and work from there.
gilrad said:
Thanks for your continued interest.
It is not designed to hold the phone "naked", I think rubber tack would offer much better traction.
I was thinking of adding a pair of horizontal telescoping arms as well. I think I could get it to fit without interfering with any of the core design mechanics.
One constraint is cost.
The device's angle is set at 45 degrees. It feels right, though maybe a more obtuse angle would be preferable to some. Once I get a working model I'll think more on this. As for ways of adding more grip, I feel eventually I will extend the bottom gripping prongs all the way across the controller, at least until it hits the triangle button (at its current state extending past that would partially cover it up). It will probably slowly evolve into that though as I need to make sure I observe the contours of the controller, and judging by how badly rev. 0 fits I can't rely on measurement alone.
As for the PlayDroid, all I really need are measurements and I will adjust the fit of the Andraxis. The whole thing is modeled in Rhino3d, which is basically a NURBS modeling program that shares a lot of design concepts with AutoCAD, so its pretty well suited for this sort of stuff. Anyway, I'll just grab the .stl from Tinkercard and work from there.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
By the rubber tack, are you referring to " Blu-Tacks " ?
Blue Tack: http://www.instructables.com/image/FJ9FKEFG7DY84RU/Prepare-the-Blue-tack-base.jpg
You might be right that it *can* offer better grip, but I think you'll find that's not really the case. Since these Tacks (despite which manufacturer) gets hardened and old, they lose their tendency to stick. So they only become a "hard creamy filling" . I think Scotch Tape should do a better job because it offers a " textured grip " (not as much as a fresh Blu-Tack) but it lasts, and it creates a physical pressure/sponge grip (superior to hard creamy fillings) to keep the device properly stabilized.
But in the end, it DOES NOT MATTER. These are aftermarket things that people will choose for themselves, as with the varnish / black paint point.
If the phone is to be sleeved in a case, then the BASE needs to be roughly 17 mm wide. 17mm is very large/thick but it will work.
To put it in perspective, an ATRIX 4G (11mm) + Silicon case (3 mm) + Tack/Scotch Tape (3 mm) = 17mm.
Do you know how to make a telescoping arm on the 3D modeller?
I do not, but if you were to show me I might be able to help.
I think that's the best way to move forward... but as I said before we should have ONLY ONE MOVING PART. It makes things much more simple AND durable. So basically just the one telescoping/adjustable one that moves vertically to clench the phone.
I don't think horizontal telescoping arm is necessary. After adding Tack/Scotch and fitting it tightly I doubt it will move sideways. Having a barrier on one end looks like it will do the trick nicely. Besides it makes it more simple and cheaper to print
It is costly printing with this company. I think we should look at finding another Printing Firm, maybe someone local? I have a feeling we need to do 5 - 12 prints until things are perfect. And for the start we need to print with the cheapest plastic available.
And once we have the "perfect mold" I think we can print them with a better plastic for cheaper as wholesale. Nothing too big, just like 200 units or so (which would sell fast), and sell them to people who want it ...basically saving them money and also covering the initial cost of printing.
P.S. I still haven't got the Datel TF2, when I do I'll check if it works on the Sixaxis App. If it does I will PM you for your address so I can post one to you, I think you could measure it more accurately than I.
P.S 2)
I just got 7 GB's free storage on DropBox, PM me soon if you want some instructions for it
Made some progress, draft 2:
https://tinkercad.com/things/2pqYnbHJpFl
But I'm stuck at a roadblock. I need to figure out how to implement the "telescoping zipper" for the adjustable arm for rev3.
I downloaded the Rhino3D program, but failed to make the object. Its just way too complicated for me. But I did test that the .stl from TinkerCAD works so I guess you can just keep downloading the revisions and adjusting it with your program of choice.
I'll stick with TinkerCAD hopefully manage some success with this project I don't want to let anyone down.
To do:
Once I do draft 3 I will print it up, find all faults and fix them up.
In the same time, I will thin down some surfaces as well as thicken up others.
The last piece of the puzzle would be to accomplish the telescoping arm with a thicker layer to make it durable (unlike some crappy phone holders).
After that hopefully the 4th draft is *perfect enough* for everyday use, and ready to be printed for everyone/mass.
Hey,
Yeah, when I mentioned rubber tack, I meant blue tack. I think, even though it might lose it's properties over time, the fact that it can conform to any shape is valuable, especially for devices with curved edges like the Galaxy phones.
Probably about a month away from getting the next revision, not being able to add funds to my PayPal account is really slowing things down.
Before I make a print, I will probably do a ninja revision and extend the base of the grip all the way to the triangle button, and add a part that rests on the shoulder button bump. The whole thing will be attached by a thin strip though, so if my measurements are way off it can still be broken off and the rest of the device will hopefully be useable.
Sent from my GT-N7000 using XDA App
Cool.
Can you do me a favour and upload a copy of your .stl to TinkerCAD ?
Its a great tool to visualize the holster, and I might be able to make some changes/polish things up. Basically I want to contribute more than just a donation
P.S. You can PM it if you like
hi gilrad! thanks for your work, i think i will buy this thing! when will the next revision be available? or should i buy rev1? is it working with the galaxy note and the galaxy s2?
Hello,
You can buy rev.1 right now if you don't want to wait, but I haven't received it yet (I expect it to arrive around the 20th), so I can't guarantee it will work without a hitch.
It was designed to accommodate the Galaxy Note as the largest dimensions, and the iPhone as the smallest dimensions.
Sent from my GT-N7000 using XDA App
I just received the Datel Turbo Fire 2 controller.
I've confirmed it works on the PS3 and the PC as a SIXAXIS remote. I'll test it with the SIXAXIS App (have to buy it first) and then find the dimensions then I'll post them here.
I've contacted a couple factories in China via email about making plastics. One has refused to service (demands an order of at least 200,000) and another says he can't do the task. I'm waiting for response from the others. If they agree, I'll be ordering a small batch from them (a dozen) when I've done tweeking it (rev4 ?). I'll be comparing the quality to the print service like Shapeways. If its acceptable, then I said I would negotiate a price for a larger order but I haven't discussed the size of the order (I'm thinking about 200 units for $10 each, they'll probably demand over 50,000 for $20 each). This was the same problem we faced with the OpenPandora and iControlPad.
Anyways, Did you see my previous post before?
Can you upload your .stl to TinkerCAD so its easy for me to modify/visualize.
Dude, don't bother looking for a way to get these produced with a Chinese plastics company unless you're willing to get a startup company loan, then devise a way to sell tens of thousands of units. There will be a large up-front fee coupled with a minimum order and month-long lead times. If these projects are getting plastic molded, it will be because an established company steps up and does the legwork.
Anyway, I don't want to release the stl until much much later. When you have confirmed your controller works with the sixaxis pair tool, I'll work on adapting my current model to it's dimensions.
Sent from my GT-N7000 using XDA App
@Kangal: do you use the rev1? How is it? im short before ordering. just want to make shure, that everything is working alright.
@gilrad: donation is on the way!
moviecut said:
@Kangal: do you use the rev1? How is it? im short before ordering. just want to make shure, that everything is working alright.
@gilrad: donation is on the way!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the interest.
I haven't printed my rev1, I think its on-par with Gilrad's rev0.
Just wait for rev1 from Gilrad and it'll be much more decent. The last thing I want to do is rush it and have one of the arms snap (because it has no support) and have it drop someone's expensive phone. But I'm planning on morphing my design and Gilrad's design together sometime soon (I just need a free but easy to use 3D tool).
After that I'm going to differentiate and make a new version that supports the Datel TF2, a much better controller than SIXAXIS.....although I've still yet to test that thoroughly
I've been super busy these past 2 weeks (work from 7am to 10pm, 6 days a week plus living away from home) which is why I haven't made much progress.
Good news everyone!
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Revision 1 just arrived and I can confirm that it is the first fully functional working model. There are of course some caveats, check the changelog on the first post. I'll get a video of it in action when I can convince one of my friends to bring a video recorder (since my best recorder is on the phone that I will use to demo the project). Until then, enjoy these snapshots I took:
I've been keeping an eye on this and it looks brilliant! I think I could wait for Rev 2, but on the shop, in black, it's costing me about $50 - £35, which is a bit pricey...Is there anything you can do to reduce the cost or is it down to the store? Also, when do you think you'll have rev 2 done? I don't mean to be a pest, I'm going on holiday 29th March and would love to have it by then!
Awesome! This is just what is needed. I can't stand playing games on the touchscreen.
I just made the modifications for rev.2 and uploaded the model. Its now available.
As for shipping, well its really unfortunate but its out of my control. Its the only shipping option the 3d printing service offers right now, despite nearly every international customer begging them to allow for something cheaper. I guess if there is anything you could do, you could go to their forums and ***** about the expensive shipping costs
And for those worried about it not holding on to the cellphone very well, I can confirm that with foam tape used as traction on the gripping prongs and "filler material" to make the rest of it snug around the controller, it is quite firm. It has even passed the "passerby bump" test, where I "accidentally" bump into some random stranger on the street
Hi, I´m interested in your Project and want to buy it... What would it cost???
I´m from Germany, so sorry for my poor english
DODOcase has revealed their line of products for the new Nexus 7. For the crowd that desires a more premium offering when it comes to device preservation.
**DODOcase Nexus 7 2013
I like the look of the dodocases, but the least expensive cover (34.95) has a mention that they recommend holding the device in with glue!
The more expensive cases don't seem to have any superior retention strategies.
I'm surprised. When I made a very similar case for my nook color, I spent time figuring out how to fit latches at the lower left and upper righthand sides so the device would stay in place even if the case opened.
The one on the upper right was movable, so I could release the Nook for the (many) times I wanted access to the sdcard slot.
With real tools, I'd have thought Dodo would've been able to do something similar by now that looked better than what I came up with. (Mine was a half a stopcock fastened inside the cover. I took a hacksaw and cut one of the "ears" off the stopcock, then cut the total length of the unit to the right length for my purpose. With that done, the half-eared top can be removed from the butt end, and screwed in in reverse so the wide end is flush with the cover and the remaining ear is able to rotate out to hold the device in, or rotate back to let you remove it from the cover.)
Pad and Quill have a nice computerized lathe as well, and I think their cases are better than the Dodocases. (Dodo benefits from being in San Francisco and able to invite the tech press to visit.)
The P and Q cases now have a kind of retention system in them, nice to see someone at least trying.
http://www.padandquill.com/all-pq-cases.html
Sadly, only available for Apple and Amazon devices at this time.
Hmm, where do you see the suggestion of additional glue? I had the hardcover classic for my original - ended up handing it off as I preferred my Treegloo case (won't be doing that again) - and the adhesive strips were more than strong enough during my use and the use it got from the other party. Never had to seek out additional means of securing the device, and obviously resorting to glue would be a terrible alternative lol
I'm assuming the more traditional bookcase styles still have the same leather inserts they used before to adequately secure your device. I haven't heard any horror stories and, truthfully, while I can't vouch for that specific model, I've heard nothing to suggest they don't hold your device as securely as a Portenzo or Treegloo.
It is too bad that P&Q don't have an offering, but one can hope! Some good alternatives, though, in Portenzo and the aforementioned DODO.
Check ou the "super duper adhesive" section on this listing for the hardcover classic.
http://www.dodocase.com/products/hardcover-classic-for-nexus-7-2
This is the closest thing I see for what you're talking about...?
Industrial-grade adhesive used to secure the Nexus 7 is reusable and residue-free. Wiping the adhesive down with water restores the stickiness.
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It's a double sided adhesive tape, 3M, that can have the stickiness restored by wiping a damp cloth on it. Should the adhesive even need it. I'm not sure where you're getting the suggestion to use additional glue. Sorry. This is the method of holding the device in this particular case. It may sound kind of odd, but I can attest to the adhesive working as advertised. As for the proper bookcase styles; the leather inset works as advertised, too, to securely hold the device. No further means of retention required.. DODO may not offer the same level of options as Portenzo, but they are quality cases made with quality materials. I can attest to that.
Sent from my Galaxy Nexus
We're talking about the same thing, it's a matter of how you apply the adhesive to the device. I had not realized they were talking about double sided tape.
My point is that I'm disappointed that the high end case makers have done so little about keeping the devices in place. I came up with a latching mechanism that leaves the device free of adhesive. It still works 2+ years in on my GFs case and both my nieces' cases, keeps the device in the case even upside down with the cover open.
I'd rather buy a nice case that can do that than make another myself, but I'm not interested in buying a pretty case that isn't as good as cases I've made, since they came out looking great.
Attached is a pic of my gf's case after 2+ years of daily use, showing the latches and magnetic closure. sleep / wake by cover isn't a feature of the nook tablet but would be trivial to build into one of these as well.
I had a Portenzo case (and ordered a new one). I never had my old N7 fall out. Even when I went to sell it, I had a good time peeling it off my Nexus 7. Does a great job, cleans up with water, and is ready again. I removed mine a few times during the trial run but eventually just left it alone. I didn't have the wood around mine either, so the glue is really good.
Shame these are so expensive. Almost $40 after shipping. I know each one is custom made, but they don't look too complicated. Oh well. Portenzo people are really cool, so I don't mind paying a little extra for some good customer service, good product, and a good laugh (you ever chatted with them?).
roustabout said:
My point is that I'm disappointed that the high end case makers have done so little about keeping the devices in place. I came up with a latching mechanism that leaves the device free of adhesive. It still works 2+ years in on my GFs case and both my nieces' cases, keeps the device in the case even upside down with the cover open.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I see, but not sure why you think these cases need any additional means of securing the device. A latching mechanism would certainly not be needed, and would only serve to spoil the appearance of the case. And there is no residue left over on the actual device with the aforementioned models. The adhesive is a curious means of securing the device, and I can understand the skepticism, but it works extremely well in my experience.
@player911 I do agree that even the cheaper models are more expensive than most would want to consider, but such cases are meant for a particular crowd.
Ordered mine with portenzo
Some decent selection.. I have a P and Q with my Ipad and like these better.
http://shop.portenzo.com/new-nexus-7/
Portenzo has some very nice options :thumbup:
Sent from my Nexus 7
mmegalodon said:
I see, but not sure why you think these cases need any additional means of securing the device. A latching mechanism would certainly not be needed, and would only serve to spoil the appearance of the case. And there is no residue left over on the actual device with the aforementioned models. The adhesive is a curious means of securing the device, and I can understand the skepticism, but it works extremely well in my experience.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well, the use of adhesive is (to me) an additional means of securing the device. And I didn't come up with my mechanism for it idly - I repeatedly had the devices fall out while reading, especially in bed.
It is possible to make a latching mechanism that doesn't spoil the look if you have the right tools and time. Two years is more than enough time. One very simple mechanism would be to put one of the wood sides (probably the one normally at the 'top') on a hinge (countersunk underneath) and have it slot into the two sides it abuts with a swiveling peg latch mechanism on either end.
Make all four sides not rectangular but 3/8" at the base and 5/8" across the top and you'd have a natural and simple slide-in, slide-out retention bezel. It would look very, very similar to the current line of products.
And now that I've thought about it, I think I have the parts in the house to make one, and I may do that although I'll probably use jewelry hooks to catch the top beam against the cross beams.
roustabout said:
Well, the use of adhesive is (to me) an additional means of securing the device. And I didn't come up with my mechanism for it idly - I repeatedly had the devices fall out while reading, especially in bed.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The adhesive is the only means of securement on this particular model. And this won't be happening, which is why these (all their models, including the likes of Portenzo, Treegloo) cases don't require additional means of retention.
It is possible to make a latching mechanism that doesn't spoil the look if you have the right tools and time... ....It would look very, very similar to the current line of products.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm all for DIY, so if you can make a case that looks half as good as a DODOcase - or a Portenzo - I would be genuinely interested in seeing it.
I originally purchased my Moto 360 with the "stone leather" band. Color is the ugliest from all the leather bands, but it was the only one available at the time with a silver watch (which was a must for me). All was fine and dandy, until the band begun to smell awful. I did wear my watch while doing weight training four times a week, but I suppose that's why it has a heart rate monitor, right ? I tried to get off the smell using a stain remover called "Vanish" which "eliminates 99% of bacteria". It did eliminate the original bad smell but another chemical smell took its place and stayed there. I finally destroyed the color of my leather band using sodium bicarbonate in one last try to eliminate the smell.
I didn't want to use 3rd party metal bands because I was afraid I would end up with a cracked watch back, and also due to the watch lugs design, they don't look good attached to the watch because they form a steep angle while exiting the watch, leading to a "hockey puck" look.
Finally the official metal bands became available via Amazon (the only ones shipping to a package forwarding addres - I live inside EU). I purchased the band for more money than I would like to spend but it was a must. I also purchased a cheap set of tools to help me replace it. I replaced the band in about 2 hours, being very careful not to scratch anything, and I succeeded to keep the watch intact. However, from this experience I advise you that this is not a simple operation and it's better to go to a jeweler. This is because the pins are hidden inside the watch and the original band takes up all the space and the pins are not visible and are hardly reachable. Also, the link pins are very hard to get out from the band in order to adjust, even with specialized tools. I really hope Motorola changes the band attachment and adjustment style on the Moto 360 v2, an easier procedure is sorely needed. Maybe they could take some hints from the Apple Watch
The band feels a lot better on hand compared to the leather band (strangely). The leather band was constantly reminding me that it's there, like I had some kind of allergy to it, I had to adjust it all the time, plus the bad smell. The metal band heats up to body temperature and you really don't feel it, despite being heavier. However, in my opinion, the metal band is about 1-2mm wider than ideal. Its actually 23mm instead of the standard 22mm. It's out of balance compared to the watch diameter and overall size. Another disadvantage of the metal band is that at the watch entry point the band looks unnatural, unfinished. The wide links end about 3mm before the rest of the band enters the watch, creating this "unfinished" effect. I think they could have done a better design. But this is a minor problem, overall the watch looks a lot better with the metal band. I do think it would look very good with the new cognac leather band, but I have to wear it while training so I can't use any more leather bands. Maybe a silicone band would come handy.
About the cracked back issue, the official metal band has 2 plastic pieces that are designed in such a way that the metal band never touches the watch back. Even the plastic pieces don't put strain on the back, it's very well designed in this regard.
A picture of the watch is attached to this post. Thanks for reading
Thank you for your input and the picture.
i have yet to see the real shape of them plastic spacers... if u ever take band off, i would like to see the actual close up pic of those plastic things
chaco81 said:
i have yet to see the real shape of them plastic spacers... if u ever take band off, i would like to see the actual close up pic of those plastic things
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I posted some photos in the Accessories section about a week ago:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=57436743&postcount=19
Well got mine today from the US, ... Cousin was coming to India
Tomorrow I will apply it.
There is a video on YouTube where it seemed it was fairly simple to change it.
Sent from my SM-N910C using Tapatalk 2
Good Review .. Thanks man
Sent from my SM-N910C using Tapatalk 2
I prefer the look of the pebble steel band for some reason.
macropterous said:
I prefer the look of the pebble steel band for some reason.
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Click to collapse
I did at first also.
But after checking it out at BB, I wasn't impressed.
I'm now leaning to the Moto band, or this Mesh one on Amazon:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00PV...qid=1419285189&sr=8-15&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70
I guess no one has paired the steel watch with the black steel official band? What do you think:
Sent from TabPRO 8.4
It's an interesting look, but I'd still go with the silver one, on the silver Moto 360. I just wish the bands were a bit cheaper. 79.99 is kind of a lot.
I finally got mine from Moto - I ordered the black watch with black band and they held it up for a month waiting for the screen protector to come in. Jerks. But I digress
The band was too small so I added a link using a cheap kit I bought on Amazon (and man are the tools included cheap! Not quite single use but close). The band was too wide to see what I was doing in the pin removal tool so I had to do it manually with a dinky hammer and an appropriate pin removal tool. Long story short, it wasn't terribly difficult to just add or subtract a link.
It looks good and works well - my only gripe is that the little space between the band and the watch case doesn't look like what I'm used to looking at.
For those of you thinking the bands are expensive... I tried to order a replacement band for my TAG sports elegance watch and those burglars wanted $600 for a new band. So I got a moto360 instead.
FYI:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=57809422&postcount=23
Has anyone found the banda up for sale online? I bought the "Milanese" SS mesh one and I really like it but j wanted a spare one because I tend to break things. Its very well made but I will find a way to break it in some clumbsy way. A variety of bands would be nice with the quick change pins being a marketing point too.
Coming soon... http://www.gethuawei.com/buy-huawei-watch#bands
Pilz said:
Has anyone found the banda up for sale online? I bought the "Milanese" SS mesh one and I really like it but j wanted a spare one because I tend to break things. Its very well made but I will find a way to break it in some clumbsy way. A variety of bands would be nice with the quick change pins being a marketing point too.
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Click to collapse
From the website:
Covart said:
From the website:
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Thanks for posting that, I'll have to look at them.
Edit: I wonder why they are so expensive because I can buy a nice watch band from other real watch companies for that price. I was looking for a black Milanese loop to add contrast to the design as an alternative but not for $80-170 with the leather likely being $80, then the Milanese ~100-120, steel $150 and the gold steel and/fancy leather one sitting at $170. That's just my guess of their pricing scale
I have the stainless but want the mesh.
AfroCreame said:
I have the stainless but want the mesh.
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The Milanese mesh is really nice, I just wish a spare wasn't so expensive. If the watch were a Tag or Omega I would spend whatever on a band but it's a smart watch. I tend to break things so having a backup is usually what I do
Pilz said:
The Milanese mesh is really nice, I just wish a spare wasn't so expensive. If the watch were a Tag or Omega I would spend whatever on a band but it's a smart watch. I tend to break things so having a backup is usually what I do
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have the mesh, and it's very nice looking. However, the clasp is big time PITA. It's very awkward. Almost makes me wish they had one like...The Apple Watch. Sorry...
c5d said:
I have the mesh, and it's very nice looking. However, the clasp is big time PITA. It's very awkward. Almost makes me wish they had one like...The Apple Watch. Sorry...
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How is it a PITA? Mine covered l closes easily and stays put
Pilz said:
How is it a PITA? Mine covered l closes easily and stays put
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Click to collapse
It're really more of a minor thing...but enough for me to complain about it...
There are times that I "think" I have it fully clasped, but it really isn't. It's like I need to make sure the clasp clicks twice. There was one time I only "did the click once", and I thought it was closed, but wasn't. Watch came off during apple picking...yay (sarcasm...to both the watch and the apple picking). However, I understand that's an end-user issue...but still...
The more of the PITA situation is trying to get it on. I find I have to hold the watch against my chest, stomach, or thigh and then play "thread the needle" with the sliding part of the band into the clasp. It's not super convenient. Also, tightening the band is fairly difficult. Maybe I don't have enough experience with watch clasps (I had a leather band on my Moto360, and I had a link clasp on my previous Citizen), but putzing with this clasp and band is a little more difficult that I thought it would be. Again, if you compare this mesh band and clasp versus the Apple Watch mesh band and magnetic clasp...the Apple product is easier to use. But then...I'd have to use an iPhone...
Is this super difficult? No. Does it make me wish I had a different band? No. Will I still gripe about it? Of course...this is a forum on the Internet...
c5d said:
It're really more of a minor thing...but enough for me to complain about it...
There are times that I "think" I have it fully clasped, but it really isn't. It's like I need to make sure the clasp clicks twice. There was one time I only "did the click once", and I thought it was closed, but wasn't. Watch came off during apple picking...yay (sarcasm...to both the watch and the apple picking). However, I understand that's an end-user issue...but still...
The more of the PITA situation is trying to get it on. I find I have to hold the watch against my chest, stomach, or thigh and then play "thread the needle" with the sliding part of the band into the clasp. It's not super convenient. Also, tightening the band is fairly difficult. Maybe I don't have enough experience with watch clasps (I had a leather band on my Moto360, and I had a link clasp on my previous Citizen), but putzing with this clasp and band is a little more difficult that I thought it would be. Again, if you compare this mesh band and clasp versus the Apple Watch mesh band and magnetic clasp...the Apple product is easier to use. But then...I'd have to use an iPhone...
Is this super difficult? No. Does it make me wish I had a different band? No. Will I still gripe about it? Of course...this is a forum on the Internet...
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Click to collapse
Mien has a very distinctive click when I close it so it's hard to not know if it's closed. Apple makes things simple for people who don't understand/know technology so I can see why they used a magnet. I understand how you might not be able to tell its closed because if it's not lined up with one of the notches on the underside it won't close, but if it is lined up its very easy to tell. I regularly bused a leather band both of my LG Urbane and my mechanical watch so it is a chance but no one that's hard to get used to. I like the metal one personally because leather wears out much faster from experience, even expensive quality leather bands. I gave a buffalo leather on my mechanical watch that's really nice but after a year it needs replacing because it loses its nice look. I'm trying to find a nice Milanese band like the Huawei one but for my mechanical watch because I really enjoy the look/feel of it.
I actually wish they made a sport band so that I could wear it while working out or doing any sort of physical activity.
I just installed a third party stainless steel mesh band onto a black Huawei watch. Purchased the band on Amazon. For being really inexpensive ($10) it is actually not that bad :thumbup: It's fairly comfortable and smooth, with no sharp links or rough edges on the band itself. Clasp feels a little cheap but sturdy enough. Again, no sharp corners or anything.
It doesn't have quick release spring bars, unfortunately. But it was not hard to install. Took less than 2 minutes using regular spring bars, and I was being ultra careful so as not to scratch the black coating of the watch. I could probably do it in less than 30 secs next time.
Also, it is not a feed through mechanism. It's the "interlocking" type. So that's a plus for those who find the feed through type a pain.
There's several of these around, and I'm sure they're pretty comparable with other cheap bands. Here's the link to the actual one I tried: https://goo.gl/P8alWI
When are they due out?
I wish I could find the black mesh band that was in some of the early promotional pics of the watch.
I found this one on Amazon. I wonder how good it is.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...eather Band&qid=1444831623&ref_=sr_1_1&sr=8-1
falcon26 said:
I found this one on Amazon. I wonder how good it is.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...eather Band&qid=1444831623&ref_=sr_1_1&sr=8-1
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Click to collapse
Hmm, their Apple Watch bands seem to get good reviews: 4/5 stars on most of them. I may order one of these tonight.
I wonder if this would work: http://www.amazon.com/Voguestrap-TX...=8-26&keywords=18mm+watch+strap+leather+casio
Hanger4life said:
I wish I could find the black mesh band that was in some of the early promotional pics of the watch.
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Please message me if you do. My black watch is shipping and I would love to get the black mesh one. So sexy on the black watch.
Here's my band, a third party Mesh Band that's 99.9% similar to the OEM Mesh Band and has quick release pins. Designed for the Huawei and feels nice, had it for a week now! http://imgur.com/a/B1Onc
http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=161889778218&alt=web
c5d said:
I have the mesh, and it's very nice looking. However, the clasp is big time PITA. It's very awkward. Almost makes me wish they had one like...The Apple Watch. Sorry...
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Click to collapse
Have to agree, I have the mesh and I like the looks and the ~infinite adjustment, but it's a royal PITA to put on.
I would love a black leather band for my black Hwatch. Anybody found one? Would prefer not a straight 18mm.