Camera Tips for Indoor - G4 Q&A, Help & Troubleshooting

Hey guys,
I am having trouble taking good pictures with indoor lighting. The first problem is that the viewfinder (or the image on the screen) is not very smooth. It's jittery and lags and its super annoying. How can I improve the speed of the viewfinder so I can frame shots better?
I also hear that the LG has fantastic low light capability. However, with indoor lighting (fluorescent bulbs) I find the images have a lot of noise and the details appear very muddy and very oil painting-ish.
I don't have any problems during sunlight but indoors, the G4's camera is a mess. It's slow, jiterry and all round annoying to use. Any help would be appreciated!

mufaa said:
Hey guys,
I am having trouble taking good pictures with indoor lighting. The first problem is that the viewfinder (or the image on the screen) is not very smooth. It's jittery and lags and its super annoying. How can I improve the speed of the viewfinder so I can frame shots better?
I also hear that the LG has fantastic low light capability. However, with indoor lighting (fluorescent bulbs) I find the images have a lot of noise and the details appear very muddy and very oil painting-ish.
I don't have any problems during sunlight but indoors, the G4's camera is a mess. It's slow, jiterry and all round annoying to use. Any help would be appreciated!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I haven't tried it on my G4. But on other digital cameras, I have seen the displayed preview screen image get jerky in low-light when aiming the camera around.
My theory is that, to make the image bright enough, the camera needs to take a longer preview exposure. Capturing the image for the preview screen works the same way as taking an actual picture, of course. In bright light, maybe the sensor takes a 1/500 second exposure to generate the preview. But in low light, maybe it needs a 1/5 second exposure to make the preview image bright enough to be useful on the sccreen. So now it can only take a max of 5 preview images per second, and the screen will look jerky.
The muddy details, and looking like an oil painting, are at least in part due to the image sensor's ISO value being turned way up, due to the low-light conditions. Some of it may be due to the JPG compression settings, and perhaps noise-reduction. Pictures taken with the flash should help with this, as you're providing more light, and therefore the camera can use a lower ISO value, for better image quality.
You could try taking the same picture in Auto, then in Manual mode. Turn the ISO value down in Manual mode (to maybe 200, 400, something like that), and slow the shutter speed as needed for a proper exposure. In the Gallery, you can check the Details for the picture taken in Auto, to check the ISO value that the camera used. Use a lower ISO value for the Manual mode picture, and see if the results look better. Doing this with the flash turned off should help make the difference more apparent.
You can also capture JPG + RAW in Manual mode. The RAW files do not exhibit JPG compression, or other processing, they are straight from the image sensor. So you may get less muddiness and oil-painting effect.

..

mufaa, can you post any example indoor pics you've taken? That might help provide some context for what you're seeing.

What are your requirements for the picture?
Do you have a moving subject that demands a fast shutter, or can you afford to use a slower shutter speed?

RedOCtobyr said:
mufaa, can you post any example indoor pics you've taken? That might help provide some context for what you're seeing.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well, here's one for starters. This is the only non-personal image I can share at the moment (I am at work!) but if it's not enough I will snap one tonight and post it for you.
http://i.imgur.com/5mpaT2h.jpg
Zoom into the picture and you will find details buried in blurry oil painting like smudges. This happens in bright pictures as well. Is this how the sensor on the camera is?
KingFatty said:
What are your requirements for the picture?
Do you have a moving subject that demands a fast shutter, or can you afford to use a slower shutter speed?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I usually shoot with subjects (my family, nephew, etc.) and I need the viewfinder to be fast. Because the viewfinder is so slow, subjects come out blurry even with the slighest movement. I also have to have a super steady hand.
This wasn't the case with the iPhone 6 i had. I just turned on the camera and snapped away.
phineous said:
Reboot or try force stop on the camera app. I've had mine get like this occasionally but force closing the app or rebooting fixed it when I opened it again.
If that doesn't do it, you could have a bad camera. There were some people complaining about camera problems in early June.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Oh boy. I will try that. I have rebooted my device multiple times and the result has been the same though.

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somebodyyy doesn't know how to use manual mode for iso

iiEatTurdz said:
somebodyyy doesn't know how to use manual mode for iso
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Any tips?
phineous said:
Maybe try clearing the cache and data on the camera app. Also, check that the laser window next to the camera lens is clean and unobstructed. Most of my pictures, even in lower light are very sharp when zoomed in.
Gotta be a bad camera or focusing laser.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Can you share some low light/indoor pictures of yours, and what settings you used to take those pics with?

That sample pic does not appear to have the EXIF data where we could check the ISO and shutter speed etc. that you used, can you check on your camera or source image what the settings were?

..

mufaa said:
I usually shoot with subjects (my family, nephew, etc.) and I need the viewfinder to be fast. Because the viewfinder is so slow, subjects come out blurry even with the slighest movement. I also have to have a super steady hand.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The sample picture looks fairly normal to me. That is, it looks like ones I've taken on my G4. I believe the effect you're seeing is partially noise-reduction done by the camera processing, but I'm not 100% sure. A high ISO value will also contribute.
Now I'm wondering if maybe I misinterpreted what you meant in your original post. When you say the viewfinder is slow, do you mean just the jerky image if you move the camera around? Or that the pictures themselves come out blurry?
With only so much light available, the camera typically needs to use a longer exposure to get a bright-enough picture. A steady hand helps, as does OIS, Optical Image Stabilization. But neither of those can help if your *subject* is moving, of course.
You have 2 choices to make a moving subject sharper in low-light:
- Add more light. Use the flash if you aren't already, assuming the subject is within reach of the flash (probably around 10 feet, max). This will change the look of the picture, making it look more "harsh", but the added light should improve the image quality. With more light, the camera can use a quicker shutter speed.
- Raise the sensor's sensitivity, by using a higher ISO value. Effectively turning up the amplification, and allowing a quicker shutter speed. But as most of us have experienced, when you turn up a weak/noisy signal (car radio, etc), you observe more of the low-level background. Static, hiss, and so on. In a picture, this shows up as "noise" in the details of the image, and will typically result in pictures with more of the oil-painting look.
The lens on the G4 is f1.8, and should let in more light than the iPhone 6, at f2.2. It's certainly possible the iPhone does better noise reduction, or things along those lines. I'm not saying the G4's camera is perfect. But it shouldn't be woefully worse in low-light, anyways.
To get a comparison of how ISO affects things, try taking the same, stationary-subject picture, at maybe ISO 200, ISO 800, and ISO 2000. Then zoom in and look at the details of each picture. BTW, every camera will exhibit this behavior.

mufaa said:
Any tips?
Can you share some low light/indoor pictures of yours, and what settings you used to take those pics with?
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Click to collapse
it has nothing to do with the cache and stuff lol they sound stupid. just play with the settings. i typically use my outdoor iso from 100-500 depending on what kind of lighting or colors are present. for indoors i set it 500+. just don't go within the thousands if there's no vivid colors or bright lights. try like 500-800 for the iso and 1-1/8 for the shutter.

RedOCtobyr said:
The sample picture looks fairly normal to me. That is, it looks like ones I've taken on my G4. I believe the effect you're seeing is partially noise-reduction done by the camera processing, but I'm not 100% sure. A high ISO value will also contribute.
Now I'm wondering if maybe I misinterpreted what you meant in your original post. When you say the viewfinder is slow, do you mean just the jerky image if you move the camera around? Or that the pictures themselves come out blurry?
With only so much light available, the camera typically needs to use a longer exposure to get a bright-enough picture. A steady hand helps, as does OIS, Optical Image Stabilization. But neither of those can help if your *subject* is moving, of course.
You have 2 choices to make a moving subject sharper in low-light:
- Add more light. Use the flash if you aren't already, assuming the subject is within reach of the flash (probably around 10 feet, max). This will change the look of the picture, making it look more "harsh", but the added light should improve the image quality. With more light, the camera can use a quicker shutter speed.
- Raise the sensor's sensitivity, by using a higher ISO value. Effectively turning up the amplification, and allowing a quicker shutter speed. But as most of us have experienced, when you turn up a weak/noisy signal (car radio, etc), you observe more of the low-level background. Static, hiss, and so on. In a picture, this shows up as "noise" in the details of the image, and will typically result in pictures with more of the oil-painting look.
The lens on the G4 is f1.8, and should let in more light than the iPhone 6, at f2.2. It's certainly possible the iPhone does better noise reduction, or things along those lines. I'm not saying the G4's camera is perfect. But it shouldn't be woefully worse in low-light, anyways.
To get a comparison of how ISO affects things, try taking the same, stationary-subject picture, at maybe ISO 200, ISO 800, and ISO 2000. Then zoom in and look at the details of each picture. BTW, every camera will exhibit this behavior.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
"do you mean just the jerky image if you move the camera around? "
Yup. I hate the jerkiness but I guess there's no way to work around that other than decreasing shutter speed and increasing ISO which results in super grainy pics.
I will try the flash light and see if its any better. Usually, I dislike using flash in normally lit indoor places. It doesn't feel natural.
iiEatTurdz said:
it has nothing to do with the cache and stuff lol they sound stupid. just play with the settings. i typically use my outdoor iso from 100-500 depending on what kind of lighting or colors are present. for indoors i set it 500+. just don't go within the thousands if there's no vivid colors or bright lights. try like 500-800 for the iso and 1-1/8 for the shutter.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah, it has nothing to do with the cache. I will try those settings. Thanks!

..

Just run into this older post.
My two cents: to avoid high iso muddiness in indoor lower light portraits, you should turn on the flash (or better, use an external led panel to create off camera light)
Indeed flash photos are unappealing, but you can improve them with Snapseed's selective editing, by lowering exposure and warming temperature on your subject faces.
You could also selectively increase exposure on one side to create a less flat picture.

mufaa said:
Hey guys,
I am having trouble taking good pictures with indoor lighting. The first problem is that the viewfinder (or the image on the screen) is not very smooth. It's jittery and lags and its super annoying. How can I improve the speed of the viewfinder so I can frame shots better?
I also hear that the LG has fantastic low light capability. However, with indoor lighting (fluorescent bulbs) I find the images have a lot of noise and the details appear very muddy and very oil painting-ish.
I don't have any problems during sunlight but indoors, the G4's camera is a mess. It's slow, jiterry and all round annoying to use. Any help would be appreciated!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I am a photographer and am trying to change over to the new mobile camera trend that started years ago but I do know that with LG, since my friend has one, doesn't have a good sense of lighting, period. I am not trying to put down your device, I do not think you need a new one. A good artist can make art from anything and everything to their best of the ability with what they have. I think you should start trying to do things like opening blinds to a window, putting white sheets of paper around or maybe some gray or black sheets of paper to balance your lighting. Is it at all possible for you to share a visual load of what you're doing with the community? I think it would be valuable to have multiple sets of eyes and have many different minds working with you to solve your problem.

Related

T-Mobile TP2 Camera Stutter

Is it normal for the TP2 picture to stutter when trying to take a picture. If there is perfect lighting in the picture there is no stuttering in the picture, but if there is a light source or if it goes from the dark to a light area it stutters badly as it attempts to balance light levels and focus.
Does anyone else have this issue or is this normal?
When you say "stutter" I suppose you mean that your pics come out blurry due to your device shaking in your hands?
This is normal in low light conditions. Since there's not enough light, the camera compensates by slowing the shutter speed to allow more light to pass through the lens. The bad side to this is the slow shutter speed will also exaggerate any camera movement and this translates to blurry photos unless your device is fixed on a stationary object (and your subject is not moving).
yes! that is exactly what I am seeing. Yeah, i did not know that was normal. the screen refresh was so choppy it is hard to take a clear picture in low light. This is my first nice phone ive had and i am not used to all the features. Thanks for explaining that to me, I appriciate it!
You're very welcome, man. Just so you know, this isn't specific to our TP2. It applies for all cameras. Those with a flash would help a bit, but not much if it is really dark.
If you try to take a picture with any camera outdoors at night without a tripod and flash, it'll come out terrible.
I just laughed when I read the TP2 camera was 3.2 with no flash.
I will never use the camera because the pictures will come out looking like crap 90% of the time.
The camera for me is honestly useless. But oh well, the rest of the phone makes up for it.
camera works good with barcorama app. takes decent pics in well lit areas

[Q] How can I take better quality pictures with Desire Z?

Something that's been annoying the crap out of me.
I know that the T-Mobile G2/Desire Z only has a 5 Megapixel camera, but the quality of the pictures I'm taking is absolutely atrocious.
What can I do to keep my pictures from looking extremely blurry? I noticed when I try to take a picture with the camera, if I hold the primary button down for a few seconds, it clears up, but as soon as I let go of the button the camera loses focuses and picture ends up getting blurred. Am I simply doing it wrong or is there some sort of trick to this in the camera settings?
I notice the camera likes to take extremely high resolution low quality pictures, is there a way to configure the camera to instead take low resolution higher quality ones instead? I don't need my pictures to be more than 1920 x 1080 but it looks like it tries to do that all the time.
Any tips would be appreciated. Thanks.
Try holding the camera button down halfway for it to focus, then push it down the rest of the way to take a picture, that might help.
Otherwise I'm not sure of any settings you could change, maybe see if there's any 3d party apps that'll work good?
-Nipqer
or you can download 3rd party apps like camera360, WHICH I HIGHLY recommend.
I've tested ALL of the camera apps and I am quite fond of Camera360, partly because it takes the clearest pictures in my opinion.
i also have problems with pic quality with this phone. lots of grain...
I've found that using touch-to-focus and the software shutter button gives me the best pictures. Depending on where in the frame you pick your focus lighting can change dramatically. Try pointing at the horizon and shift focus from the sky to the ground - huge difference!
I always take pictures with maximum resolution and mostly just pass on a snapshot if it's not daylight.
camera360
the best camera app
Keirnoth said:
Something that's been annoying the crap out of me.
I know that the T-Mobile G2/Desire Z only has a 5 Megapixel camera, but the quality of the pictures I'm taking is absolutely atrocious.
What can I do to keep my pictures from looking extremely blurry? I noticed when I try to take a picture with the camera, if I hold the primary button down for a few seconds, it clears up, but as soon as I let go of the button the camera loses focuses and picture ends up getting blurred. Am I simply doing it wrong or is there some sort of trick to this in the camera settings?
I notice the camera likes to take extremely high resolution low quality pictures, is there a way to configure the camera to instead take low resolution higher quality ones instead? I don't need my pictures to be more than 1920 x 1080 but it looks like it tries to do that all the time.
Any tips would be appreciated. Thanks.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The default camera app takes the shot at the last moment until you hear the click sound.
Whenever you are taking the picture just let the camera look at it and it will automatically focus, adjust exposure, etc. after that when you click the button on screen it optimizes the settings and only at the last moment it takes the picture.
It you'll change the camera position or the object moves, then the picture will appear blurry. So, the trick is to keep your hand steady and the object should also be steady and keep your hand at one position while clicking photograph until the camera is ready to take another photograph.
Another trick is to install HTC Amaze camera app for Vision available on xda and flash it.
While taking the photograph, change its mode to action, now it will take the best shot out of all possible positions of the object but it won't implement any exposure correction or face detection so efficiently.
Ok, I'm about to break out a bit of Photography 101 up in here. I'm sure a lot of you know some or all of this stuff, but I'm going to try not to assume anything and pretend I'm trying to teach a caveman from 10,000 BC how to take good pictures. I'll try not to write a book, but no promises... but since this is the internet and people have short attention spans, I'll also do a TL;DR summary at the end for the ADD people. ;p
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Note: I'm going to start by talking generally, and then I'll try to get a bit more specific about cell phone cameras, the G2/DZ camera, a specific app, and techniques you can use to create optimal pictures. So, the beginning will start out sounding obvious to most of you, but will gradually get more into some (hopefully) useful specifics.
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Alright, photography is all about capturing light. This might sound obvious, but it's useful to keep in mind when you're trying to think like a camera, so you will be able to know what it wants in different situations. Cameras want light - lots and lots of light. You can almost never have too much light. The less you have to depend on the wimpy and crappy flash, the better your pictures will look. The BEST pictures won't need to use flash at all. So IF you can, get as much light as possible on whatever you're taking a picture of. You often can't control any lighting, but what you can do is maximize what lighting there already is. This means if you're shooting outside in the sun, you want to try to have the sun shining on whatever you take a picture of. But you want the sun behind you, and shining on your subject. If the sun is behind your subject and shining towards you, you'll end up with with plenty of light, but your subject will look like a silhouette. It's the same if you're shooting inside or even outside in relative darkness - you want as much light as possible shining on your subject, but as little light as possible shining *directly* into the camera. So try not to take pictures of people or things that have lights or bright things behind them - if possible, you want those things behind you and shining/reflecting onto the subject. So, when you're inside, turn on all the lights you can, as long as they're not behind the subject or shining directly into the camera.
The way a camera makes sure it gets as much light as it needs is by adjusting how long the shutter (ok, CMOS sensor) stays open. When there's plenty of light the shutter will open and close really fast - this is generally good, and this is what you want to shoot for. When there's not a lot of light, the shutter will need to stay open for longer - this is generally bad, and this is what you want to avoid. The main reason you want to avoid this is that it's impossible to hold your cell phone completely steady in your hands, and the longer the shutter needs to stay open, the more blurry the picture will be from the motion of your hands and the subject, and the more "noise" artifacts will show up in the image because of the nature of digital image sensors. LIGHT, LIGHT and more LIGHT is the key to good pics. Light is your friend, so learn how to work with it.
But you can't always control light, so what else can you do? The answer is to practice ways to hold your phone as steady as possible when you're taking a pic. First, always hold your phone with two hands, particularly in lower light situations. Also, you can brace your arms by pressing your elbows up against your body. If possible, brace your body by standing against or leaning on a wall, or sitting down. In situations where you can, rest the phone itself or at least your hands/arm/elbows on a solid surface like a table or whatever. After maximizing the lighting, anything you can do to hold the phone steady will have the second biggest impact in the quality of your pics.
This brings me to my app recommendation, which is called Camera Magic. I saw that two people previously recommended Camera 360 - I haven't tried it because some of the reviews and the permissions it requires scare me. A camera app needs access to personal log data? No thank you. But for all I know, it could be a real kickass and legit app, and I'm missing out... Anyway, among other things I like about Camera Magic is that it has a "Timer" and "Burst" mode. The timer mode is the key here. Using the timer will allow you to set the phone on a table or whatever and have it take a pic by itself, without having your shaky hands mucking up the image quality for pictures you want to come out extra good. For group shots, or self-pics, you can also set the timer so that you can strike a pose and get yourself in that higher quality image you'll get. And here's the really neat trick specific to our G2/DZ's that might make reading all this worth it - our phones have a built in tripod! Sort of... If you halfway open the keyboard, so that the screen and the keyboard halves are at the points farthest apart from each other, you can set the phone on a table and it will stand up on it's own!! Now be careful, because I'm not responsible for any cracked or scratched screens if your phone falls over. But I doubt that would happen even if it fell over, because it would fall flat and should be ok. Just don't do this in a precarious situation with your phone on a ledge or something it could fall off of.
Ok, I need to wrap this up for now, but here's a quick note about auto-focus. You don't usually need it. Most of the time it will just slow you down if you need to take a quick snapshot. The only time auto-focus helps is when you are taking a picture of something *closer* than 4 feet away. If you turn off auto-focus, everything farther than 4 feet away will always be in focus anyway, and you'll be able to take pictures a bit faster.
Ok, one last note about using zoom. You don't need it either. It's not a real zoom, it's just digital zoom, which just leads to lower quality images. Just take the picture (following all above guidelines) without zoom and your subject centered in the frame. You can always do any cropping or digital zooming later in Gallery, QuickPic, or even better Photoshop or whatever image editor you use, if necessary. That way, you'll have more time and control to get it framed just right.
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TL;DR for those with ADD:
- LIGHT - You want as much light as possible ON your subject, but NOT behind your subject or directly into the camera.
- FLASH - Try not to depend on it. The best pics won't need to use flash at all, because you already have plenty of light.
- STEADY - Hold the phone steady with two hands. This is extra important in lower-light situations. Brace your hands/arms/elbows against something like a wall or table, or sit down, or if you can't and there's nothing to brace against, then press your elbows up against your chest/body and try to hold as still as possible. Use the app called Camera Magic so you can take advantage of the Timer function, among other features. Also see the G2/DZ-specific "tripod" trick (bolded) above, so you can take a completely steady pic.
- AUTO-FOCUS - You don't usually need it, it's only good for taking pictures of things closer than 4 feet away, otherwise it just slows you down when you want to take a quick picture. With auto-focus off, everything farther than 4 feet away will be in focus anyway.
- ZOOM - Don't use it, it will lower quality since it's not a real zoom, and you can always crop/zoom later with software, when you'll have more time/control.
I hope this helps some of you take some better pics!
(Edit: Hmmm, I guess bold doesn't work... maybe just a new user thing?)
Try a Sense 3.0 or 3.5 rom, they tend to produce the best quality photos from their camera app.
CM7 camera picture quality is terrible. I dont know if it has been fixed but I remember reading somewhere its caused by CM7 compressing the pictures.
Apologies in advance for bringing back old posts, but I wanted to followup on this post just to see if more people have any other ideas.
Thank you to all of you for your assistance. Not sure what software touch focus was, but what I did was take some of the guidelines from voltaic's posts and also switch over to Camera360. I took some tests shots with it and they seem to be pretty decent. Loads of image altering features similar to its iOS competitor. I just needed basic picture taking and from a few test shots, they seem to be a bit clearer. It also allows me to lower the image resolution so instead of taking giant grainy shots I can take smaller clearer looking shots.
I suck at using the default Camera app. The only thing I know how to do is adjust the Flash, and zoom that are on the right side when you take a photo (horizontal orientation).
Not sure if changing the Brightness/Contrast/Saturation/Sharpness, White Balance, and Focus mode does any good. I see Continuous, Auto, Infinity, and Touch. I don't mind having to press an extra button if it will help stop these grainy looking pictures - would switching it to Touch help a bit?
I just made a long post of tips on another thread:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1478405
Touch focus lets you tap on the screen to focus a particular part of the screen; whereas default is center focused, with maybe face detection (don't know if 360 has face detection).
Grain or nose is a function of high ISO. Lowering the ISO will reduce the grain, but may result in not enough light for a decent shot (will be underexposed or too dark). Increase the light if possible, so you can lower the ISO. Sometimes just changing the angle of the camera, your position, or simply turning on more lights in the room can make a huge difference. Manually setting the ISO and white balance might help a bit. But the fact of the matter, is that if there isn't enough light, you are going to need high ISO to get a decent shot.
Special effects can be fun. But most (or all) of these effects can be applied to a photo after the fact (Picsay Pro and Vignette are my favorite phone apps for simple photo edits). On the other hand, if you take a picture with the effect, it can't be undone afterwards. OF course, there may be times when you don't care for the "raw" photo (
Manipulating brightness is useful if the pic looks too dark or light. For instance, the picture looks much lighter than what your eyes see (outdoor night photos is a good example). But those settings (brightness, contrast, saturation) usually won't change graininess or the overall quality of the picture (how its captured). Again, these are all things that can be fixed after the fact. However, I've found setting white balance manually to be very helpful. Setting white balance manually (while it takes time to do so for each different environment) gives much better results than Auto. Auto takes extra time to evaluate the light conditions when you hit the shutter, and sometimes does so incorrectly. Technically, white balance can be fixed after the fact. But the fact Auto white balance delays the capturing of the photo, means it can often cause a blurry picture.
Long story short, learning the basics of how a camera works, and simple camera techniques (angle and position) have much more influence on photo quality than messing with different apps or effects. Aside from settings that fundamentally change how the photo is captured (ISO, focus, white balance), the rest is just frosting on the cake. And you can't polish a turd.
I'd noticed battery drain with Camera360, even if I've cut the localisation.
Anyone else?
Try using HDR Camera+ it's been HIGHLY recommended by PocketNow.com to get the best quality pictures out of your android phone.
Available in the android market.

[Q] Picture quality, day and night?

Hey guys/gals,
Just wondering on how the quality of the pictures are with this phone. I've seen pics taken by reviewers, but it's always better to look at it from a user's perspective. Has anybody tried playing around with the camera?
Also, can someone be kind enough to upload some sample pictures of random shots, like daylight shots, night time, and macro shots? I know the camera is supposedly very good, but it'll be nice to actually see a few real samples, especially the night time shots.
bump, anybody? hehe
Actual pics to come, but from my own experience as both a previous user of the Nexus One AND a hobby digital photographer are;
All of this is using the default Camera, default settings (except for turning OFF the shutter sound).
1. The Nitro does a rather good job in low light situations. Opting to raise the ISO more than use Flash. On more than a few occasions where I expected to see flash, it didn't. When blown-up you certainly can see the picture is grainier without the flash, but for web/facebook viewing the results are quite good and a LOT LESS harsh from not using flash.
2. LONG shot-to-shot time! I wonder what the buffer size with the camera is, IF there's even a buffer that comes with it! Because it takes me about 6 seconds between taking one picture before I'm able to take the next. Even when I try using a 3rd party app (Camera Zoom FX) I only got the time down to 3 seconds. Do NOT plan on using this phone's camera for any kid's birthday parties!!
That's all I've got for the moment, will add more when I've done more playing/testing.
Guess I can upload a bunch I took.
A note, some are taken with HDR + and others with Camera Zoom FX.
http://thewisedumbass.tumblr.com/post/14540968432 (Had to make it a post on Tumblr, pics kept messing up here)
The photos looks decent for a phone, nothing spectacular, at low light is more like "meh" - an average or slightly above, but when it comes to movies at low light I'd prefer have grain (Atrix 4G / Nitro) rather then ghosting (any other phones). On Nitro and Atrix 4G regardless of the light the picture is smooth 30fps, as opposite to Skyrocket or ANY HTC phone with 5fps and all smugged.
Here are some shots to compare:
Nitro with flash (left), no flash (right):
Atrix 4G with flash (left), no flash (right):
Also note Nitro has much lower lens focal length, which makes it capture wider surroundings. The photos were taking from 4 feet away and Nitro's photos captured much more surroundings then Atrix. Even when you hold both phones side by side the image at Nitro looks at pretty much correct distance, rather then on Atrix it looks like zoomed in. Yet, in low light Atrix's ISO captures much more light.
This is first phone camera that beat Atrix's (IMO). /me very happy with it.
Nice!! thanks guys for the details comparisons. I am liking wat i see with the Nitro. Do any of u guys find the auto focus annoying, or is there an option to do manual focus, like the atrix??
Not sure what manual focus you are talking about, but the camera does allow you to touch to pick the area to focus. Still auto-focus to the region, but better than the normal.
aquariuz23 said:
Nice!! thanks guys for the details comparisons. I am liking wat i see with the Nitro. Do any of u guys find the auto focus annoying, or is there an option to do manual focus, like the atrix??
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Neither stock nor MIUI camera has manual focus on Atrix...In fact Atrix doesn't allow you pick which part on the picture you want it focus to, it's always at the center.

How exactly does "Auto HDR" work?

I never use HDR when taking pics on my GS4, because frankly, it doesn't need it. But I saw a couple of pictures taken with the G3 in HDR that looked AMAZING. It makes me think I'll be using HDR quite a bit. My question is, how exactly does the phone know when to use HDR and when not to? Is it somewhat intelligent about when using it would make the picture better?
Listening in.
Slash8915 said:
I never use HDR when taking pics on my GS4, because frankly, it doesn't need it. But I saw a couple of pictures taken with the G3 in HDR that looked AMAZING. It makes me think I'll be using HDR quite a bit. My question is, how exactly does the phone know when to use HDR and when not to? Is it somewhat intelligent about when using it would make the picture better?
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dondavis007 said:
Listening in.
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HDR is used to brighten the dark surrounds of where the lens is pointing towards a bright area.
Without HDR if you took a shot of say looking out of a window the light meter inside the camera exposes the shot for what you see outside the window but unlike our eyes which manage to 'balance the lighting' of everything else inside (surrounding walls) this non HDR shot would make these walls black.
Now take the same shot with HDR and although the exposure is still focused on what you see outside everything else inside the building has it's light lifted, so giving you an effect similar to what your eyes actually see.
The better the camera and I do mean dedicated DSLR type the better the HDR effect.
So, how does it do it......
Well, unknown to you when you take that HDR shot out of the window the sensor immediately notices the lighting is extremely bright in certain areas of the shot. So, instead of exposing the shot to either inside which would result in what is seen out of the window being washed out is extreme brightness or exposing the shot to what is seen outside which results in everything inside being extremely dark, what the sensor now does is say "Hey, let me lift the dark areas and lower the bright areas and give you are more balanced shot"!
It does this by taking two very quick successive shots, one bright areas and one dark areas and then quickly combines the two together.
All you get to see is the final shot.
Some camera apps such as Camera 360 offer a dedicated HDR section where you can control more of the shot.
There is even dedicated standalone apps which concentrate on nothing but HDR.

Possible to tweak camera?

Before I got my m8 i had a china phone with a realy fast camera.
Now with this phone photos often are blurred.
How can I make the camera more snappy?
If you've had the phone for a couple months or more, or it was purchased used; it may just be that the anti-glare coating is peeling off, and causing the photos to be blurry. If this is the case, you should be able to look at the rear (main) camera glass, and see the coating "flaking" off.
If you can confirm this, the easy fix is to remove the rest of the coating with various methods (gently rubbing with alcohol, toothpaste, etc.):
http://forum.xda-developers.com/htc-one-m8/general/how-to-fix-htc-one-m8-camera-issue-t2803825
thanks for your reply, but this is not what i mean.
i mean motion blur. the lens is to long open when i take pictres.
i mean the Camera shutter speed.
i´ve found no camera app that can adjust that.
Maximus1a said:
i mean motion blur. the lens is to long open when i take pictres.
i mean the Camera shutter speed.
i´ve found no camera app that can adjust that.
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Shutter speed is a function of the ISO, aperture and amount of light.
If you just change the shutter speed, without changing the other variables, you will have underexposed (dark) pics.
You can try to manually adjust (force) the ISO and exposure, but you'd have to adjust these every time the lighting conditions change. And your pics may look very "grainy" and dark in lower light.
EDIT: Or go to full Manual mode, see details in Post #10 below.
Not sure what your previous phone is, but the M8 is a very good low-light performer, and fast response. At least compared to other phones of its generation.
Low light is not so important than a realy fast response.
With my last phone we drove 80 km/h and i made a photo out of the car. The tree rushing over was 2 meters away and super sharp in the photo. The M8 camera should do this too.
Maximus1a said:
Low light is not so important than a realy fast response.
With my last phone we drove 80 km/h and i made a photo out of the car. The tree rushing over was 2 meters away and super sharp in the photo. The M8 camera should do this too.
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In "Auto" mode, the camera will keep the "shutter" open (in this case, its not an actual shutter, but just a sensor being turned on/off) as long as it thinks it needs to, based on the ISO, exposure, lighting conditions, etc. The "shutter" speed is automatically determined, and as with any "auto" setting; you might not agree with what its doing. You can't tweak the "shutter" speed on this device. But you can try to adjust the ISO and exposure (as I've already mentioned) to see if it helps to shorten the shutter speed.
EDIT: Or go to full Manual mode, see details in Post #10 below.
Thanks. Yesterday i tried to adjust the ISO. It is a little bit better but not satisfying.
Maximus1a said:
Thanks. Yesterday i tried to adjust the ISO. It is a little bit better but not satisfying.
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You can choose Manual mode and decrease exposure time (equilvalent increase shutter speed).
To wich camera APP you are refering?
nhoc_maruko9x said:
You can choose Manual mode and decrease exposure time (equilvalent increase shutter speed).
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Damn, so you can! I knew about "manual" mode, but honestly couldn't remember how to go into that mode (I never use it): http://www.htc.com/us/support/htc-one-m8/howto/464940.html
The slider with the shutter-like symbol (fractional numbers along it) actually works pretty well. I turned it up the lower exposure times; waved the phone pretty quickly while taking a picture, and no blur! Of course, the pics will look more grainy and dark, the lower the exposure time.
But I think that is exactly what the OP was looking for (although the resulting pic quality mayor may not be to their satisfaction). Sorry for any misleading information!
@redpoint73 yes this is what I was looking for. Thanks
Maybe the hardware can take good photos but for normal use and snapshots it is not useable. The camera from my cheap chinaphone was far better.
redpoint73 said:
Damn, so you can! I knew about "manual" mode, but honestly couldn't remember how to go into that mode (I never use it): http://www.htc.com/us/support/htc-one-m8/howto/464940.html
The slider with the shutter-like symbol (fractional numbers along it) actually works pretty well. I turned it up the lower exposure times; waved the phone pretty quickly while taking a picture, and no blur! Of course, the pics will look more grainy and dark, the lower the exposure time.
But I think that is exactly what the OP was looking for (although the resulting pic quality mayor may not be to their satisfaction). Sorry for any misleading information!
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Sure with high shutter speed, the photo will be dark, you should increase ISO too. I rarely use low exposure time, usually I take photo with high exposure time and low ISO in the night.

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