EDIT: Please move this to Q&A and help section.. sorry.
Hello fellow tablet users.
Since the lost 2 weeks my tablet has been acting weird. It jumps alot on the battery levels, one second having 50% then 13% then suddenly 3% then plugging in the charger it has 50%.
I've tried to charge it fully then making a battery calibration but with no luck.. what should I do next? Full reset?
Kind regards,
Ratty
If you have the 8.4" it`s most likely an bad battery connection, due to an bad power connector or the part of the connector that is soldered to the motherboard coming loose, it`s an common problem with the 8.4" with people bending it while in back pockets ect, less of an problem with the 10.5" as you would need an hell of a back pocket.
Samsung knows about this problem, and according to one 8.4" owner replaced the battery connector with an more heavy duty version, some people say to solder the battery wires directly to the motherboard.
It`s quite easy to open the Tab S, lots of video`s on youtube and you just need an plastic pry tool they call an spluger or an guitar pick, I got an spluger on ebay for £1 an replacement battery is £9 an full kit is around $60 for battery and tools if you can do the job yourself.
https://www.newpower99.com/Samsung_...tery_Kit_p/samsung-galaxy-tab-s-8.4smt700.htm
https://www.newpower99.com/Samsung_...attery_Kit_p/samsung-galaxy-tab-s-sm-t800.htm
John.
ratty123 said:
Since the last 2 weeks my tablet has been acting weird. It jumps alot on the battery levels, one second having 50% then 13% then suddenly 3% then plugging in the charger it has 50%.
I've tried to charge it fully then making a battery calibration but with no luck.. what should I do next? Full reset?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Reset won't solve a hardware problem, it's very common in Samsung tablets : cracked or loose battery connector : male and female.
This is a close look of female connector:
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If it's not fully contact with male connector's pins, you will have battery fluctuation in capacity. The fix is simple: push the opening closer for all six cables.
This is the male connector , it's re soldered to fix battery quick discharge or capacity fluctuation
I'm having this problem for a long time on my TabS 10.5". I think it's time to discard this device but I'm low of budget to buy a good tablet now, is it secure to open it and bypass battery using direct connection to charging cable from the original USB cable? There are some videos on how to do it, but none of this device.
They are not engineered the same as laptops. They always run off the battery, whether the tablet is plugged in or not. This is a series arrangement. A laptop has power source switcher inside and can run off either; that's a parallel arrangement.
The battery completes the circuit. The charge cord doesn't connect directly to the tablet because the battery is in between. Outlet-->charge cord-->battery-->tablet. You can't just jump over a step.The battery completes the circuit. The charge cord doesn't connect directly to the tablet because the battery is in between. Outlet-->charge cord-->battery-->tablet. You can't just jump over a step.
They are designed on an idea that the user will use it on the go, rather than sitting at a fixed location connected to a charger.
As such, the internal circuitry of a tablet allows the device to work only when the battery is connected to it.
Bypass the battery for direct connection
Hi,
I have a similar connector for the battery on a Samsung Tab GT-P5200.
I want to directly connect the (two) wires from USB power source and bypass the defective battery and the normal mimi USB connector.
Therefore can someone help me out with matching the colours?
Tere is just +-(red/black wires on USB) and the connector from the battery has two red, two bue and two black.
I presume at least two should charge the battery and other two should transport the charge from the battery. And the blue ones maybe for control?
Please give me your though, or maybe suggest other place on the bord co connect directly.
Thank you!
Related
I just got a portable battery box (2800mAh) for $14 from monoprice. (LINK)
Nicely built, relatively small, and about to test whether it will give me 1.5 full charges as mAh would suggest (2800mAh / 1800mAh on HOX = around 1.5 charges).
Box itself doesn't come with any charger, but is able to be charged by any charger with Micro or Mini USB connector (yep, it has 2 inputs).
Output is a male MicroUSB connector that fits HOX nicely (duh!).
Output: DC5.0V 800mAh
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I'd imagine if you want to use the phone while charging from it, you can connect them with a female-male MicroUSB connector.
The charger has a button that shows the charge level of the box with 25% increments (4 lights).
Has another light for "FULL".
As soon as I connected the box to HOX, phone immediately showed that it's being charged, as if from the regular charger. Not sure what the current is, but it may come across as slow charge (USB port charge) as opposed to AC charger.
So far I tested the charge over 10 minute deep sleep period, and I got this:
With the box, in average HOX charged for 2% every 10 minutes.
That would suggest that it would take this box 8.3 hours to charge HOX fully, which isn't bad at all, considering you're free to use it while it's charging.
Over next day or so I'll try to completely discharge the HOX and charge it overnight from the box. I'll see just how much this box can spit out.
---------------------------------
EDIT/REPORT:
I discharged my phone to 5% yesterday, disabled wifi and BT, and connected it to batt pack to charge overnight.
It turns out that this batt back is crap.
Overnight, when phone was in deep sleep with wifi/BT off, a full battle pack charged my HOX only by 55% (I charged the batt pack before using it). Even considering some small drainage during charge, I'd say this pack actually acts if it had just over 1000mAh or so, nothing close to 2800.
Oh well, gonna return it and keep looking.
shouldn't this be in the accessories forum?
More appropriate in the One X Accessories forum.
ultrawires said:
More appropriate in the One X Accessories forum.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Oh damnit I could've sworn I created it in Accessories..
Mods, please move this, I'm sorry
Hate the ones that plug right into the phone like that. Pretty much makes the phone a huge pain to use. I would rather spend the extra money and pick something like this up
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vaas-VM50-5...ain_0&var=&hash=item35bc78b2c2#ht_2029wt_1396
mbh87 said:
Hate the ones that plug right into the phone like that. Pretty much makes the phone a huge pain to use. I would rather spend the extra money and pick something like this up
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vaas-VM50-5...ain_0&var=&hash=item35bc78b2c2#ht_2029wt_1396
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's a good option too, although I actually like that monoprice's sticks right into the phone, so you don't have to carry a cable with u.
Also, it seems smaller and cheaper.
DarkDvr said:
That's a good option too, although I actually like that monoprice's sticks right into the phone, so you don't have to carry a cable with u.
Also, it seems smaller and cheaper.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I know of certain defense organisations that allow the fixed connectors but not those with detachable cables. Disallowing the cables reduces the risk of the cables being used for data transfer.
ultrawires said:
I know of certain defense organisations that allow the fixed connectors but not those with detachable cables. Disallowing the cables reduces the risk of the cables being used for data transfer.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
....
huh?
It's a security standpoint from Defence services (IE: Australian Army, etc) who wish to minimise security leaks. A data cable can be used to link up other devices, not just the charger.
Werewolph said:
It's a security standpoint from Defence services (IE: Australian Army, etc) who wish to minimise security leaks. A data cable can be used to link up other devices, not just the charger.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Okay, and I guess if I were flying in outer space, my suit was venting air, and the only thing that would save me is connecting a batt pack to a phone - in that situation a cable could freeze solid to a connector on the batt pack, making batt pack unusable, and thus killing me.
WRONG!
That's when Iron Man comes flying to the rescue thus saving your life and getting an autograph that you could sell on eBay for some money and covering your costs of the HTC One X.
OK well, turns out that this batt back is crap.
Updated the main post.
My Note 8 only receives power when plugged in. I have replaced the power port but problem persists. Battery shows 100% but when I remove the power cord it dies. Any help would be appreciated.
Could be bad battery or needs a power reset, open the backside cover and unplug the battery connector and wait 2 minutes, and reconnect.
I did this while installing the new power port. I have ordered a new battery. I'.lol report back with the results. Thanks for your input
fwiw I got this off eBay for $15 so I have some monetary leeway as far as repairs go.
Zweiguys said:
My Note 8 only receives power when plugged in. I have replaced the power port but problem persists. Battery shows 100% but when I remove the power cord it dies. Any help would be appreciated.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Your tablet only runs when plugged in even when battery is full, possibly the battery connector has some open pins. Re solder the black battery connector may fix it.
Open pins can fool your tablet the battery capacity. For example, disconnect battery cable from battery connector, plugged in and press the HOME button, it will show the green battery icon is charging, then within 30 seconds, it will show the 100% battery icon. When sensor from the mainboard doesn't see any drawing charging current , it will send the signal to charging circuit the battery is full and it should disconnect. This behavior you can test on any Samsung tablet to see if charging port is drawing current to battery connector or it's working.
Any repair shop or anyone knows how to solder can help you, this re solder only takes under 5 minutes and you only need to disconnect battery cable.
Here what it looks like when I fool my tablet by disconnected the battery while charging:
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Best, thanks for that info. I'll do,that test when I open the tablet to install the new battery.
Zweiguys said:
Best, thanks for that info. I'll do,that test when I open the tablet to install the new battery.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This can be bad battery or open, cracked battery connector. When change new battery, don't put back the rear cover, test if your charging port is working without battery. Then connect the battery, press the HOME button to see the flashing green battery icon. If it's OK, waiting for at least one hour, press the power button to turn on. If it's turn on, you have a bad battery.
If it doesn't turn on with new battery, then the battery connector is the source of problem and need to be re soldered.
This is the battery connector you should look for, I already re soldered this black connector by adding more solders to 6 joints:
Beut, installed new battery today with no change. I did as you suggested and the device did register 100% battery even though one was not present. The area around the battery connector appears to either have corrosion (slight) or maybe a power surge. Just doesn't look right.
I only paid $15 for this and the fact that it runs fine while plugged in I'll probably take it to work and use it to watch the EPL games on Saturdays. Maybe at some point I'll come across a working unit with a bad screen.
Thanks again for your help. Keith
Zweiguys said:
Beut, installed new battery today with no change. I did as you suggested and the device did register 100% battery even though one was not present. The area around the battery connector appears to either have corrosion (slight) or maybe a power surge. Just doesn't look right.
I only paid $15 for this and the fact that it runs fine while plugged in I'll probably take it to work and use it to watch the EPL games on Saturdays. Maybe at some point I'll come across a working unit with a bad screen.
Thanks again for your help. Keith
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think you should re solder this battery connector, it takes only few minutes for who knows how to solder.
Any repair shop can assist you with little charge as it's only a 5 minutes work.
Cracked battery connector is very common in Samsung tablets, not just this tablet.
Maybe I'll give that a shot at some point. I guess I can't make it any worse. The connector looks a little odd near the two red wires coming from the battery.
Hello everyone. My question is related to the pin connector and battery life:
3 months ago, i though it was moment for battery replacement of my S 8.4, but in the process i broke the 6-pin connector placed in the board. So, I tried to deal with it and charge the new battery once, with the connector slightly detached and badly soldered. It went bad since wasn't charging normally, i screwed badly the connector so had to replace it.
I ordered the new connector with an official tech support. Connector took few weeks to arrive (i live in Chile). I did the microsoldering with a lot of troubles, and after watching tutorials and buying soldering stuff, practicing and studying the possible troubles i could face, i finally did it (see the pic). Anyway I'm skeptic about what i just did XD (btw i used soldering paste for smd, really cool stuff)
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Now it's charging, after 3 hrs it went from 20 - 90%. My questions are 2:
1) considering that many experts point out that lithium battery's first charge is extremely important for technical reasons (SEI forming on first charge cycle; non full charge leads to fading over time), should i replace my battery soon, if i stored at 20% for 2 months?
2) how do i know if i soldered correctly the connector, should i consider the time it takes (normally charging cycle was around 3 hrs 30 from 0 - 100%)?
Thanks!
need help with soldering
Hi buddy , have a similar needs as yours, except in my case i did not break the connector , it broke by itself after a few months , guess a bad solder at the samsung factory itself .
So now coming to the point , i ordered a new connector and was thinking to solder it myself as service center was charging a hefty price for a small repair . Could you please guide me as to what all is required to do it properly .
li-ion battery`s dont need a forming charge on first charge.
Dont run the battery too low as the battery can fail, I don't go below 20% (I use a charge level alarm)
I don't charge above 80%(I use a charge alarm) , I have charged to 100% only 7 time in 28months(only after flashing or upgrades to calibrate the battery gauge)
i have used my T800 every day and no problems so far.
John.
Im also having the same problem...
The connector pin just came off from the motherboard...In my case..im so afraid to do the microsoldering,however i tried “reflow solder” heat up the connecter while sticking it on the motherboard for few seconds...then let it cool...yes it was succesfully connected..but its not strong enough...it just came off again when i grabbed the tablet to put on its backcover...The main reason why im scared to do the microsoldering is what if i accidently damaged other components in the motherboard...is there any other way to solve this issue other replacing the motherboard...
Hey there,
greetings from germany. Pretty sure this belongs to "Questions and Answers", if not - please hit me and move it.
I am confronted with a, in my opinion, strange problem regarding my P-601 Samsung Note 10.10 2014 Edition.
I will try to provide every action I took and what I figured out so far that noone that wants to help will need his crystal ball. But the first actions are about a year ago, so forgive me if I cant remember exactly.
Device: Samsung Tablet Note 10.1 2014 Edition (P-601)
Problem: Charging slow AF but lives, can be turned on, can be loaded via USB. (But more power is drained while using than can be delivered by charging = dies sooner or later while beeing used)
OS: LineAge OS
First I thought, EASY - get a new battery, done. Wrong.
I ordered a new battery, a (2) "vhbw" battery for "T8220E" - same mentioned on the original Samsung battery.
This is a year ago, In my belief I did get the tablet to run, and charge- but had the same problems regarding the charging speed. Slow AF - but I am not sure! Life happend, things came inbetween so I did put everything aside. Now I want to use it in my home gym, so thats why I came up here.
My next suggestion was that the charge electronic maybe the problem, so I ordered a new one, built it in. Didnt change anything. The (1) Original battery, is still charging slow af.
The new battery, doesnt do anything! If the (2) "vhbw" battery is built in, I am not able to turn the tablet on OR charge it. Its just a brick with this battery.
So what did I do? I ordered a new battery, from a well known german company trading parts like this, a (3) "original samsung battery". Guess what, the tablet does nothing.
So i thought, maybe your new charging electronic is the problem. So I put the (1) Original Tablet battery in again, and well - it runs, can be turned on and can be charged (slow af).
So the charging electronic is fine. Display is also fine.
I did confirm this several times by changing the batterys in and out, the new batterys (2) and (3) are "dead", the (1) original battery runs.
Right now I am stuck. It seems that my Tablet is blocking any battery besides his original one.
Note: I cant access Recovery Mode with battery (2) and (3). Its really dead. They where also charged atleast an half an hour, just in case they were delivered "really dead at 0%", which would be new to me because most devices or batterys come with atleast 25% battery status.
Note2: Yes I did use a ****load of power adapter and cables all in combination, same result.
Any help is really appreciated! Thanks in advance.
clyde
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Hello, I came here looking for recommendations for a new battery for my SM-P600. Could you tell me where you ordered your OEM one from?
As far as your problem, do you have a multi-meter? There are very cheap basic ones if you don't. Anyway, you can test the seemingly dead batteries with it to determine if they are in fact dead, or something else is going on.
Secondly, do you happen to have a hobby charger? With these, you can charge pretty much any battery L-ion or other. You can also do a drain test with most of these to determine the capacity of a battery. That is all I can really think of thus far. Determine if the batteries are dead. Oh one more thing you could do with the multi-meter is test the current being applied to the battery. I believe there are some free apps in the Google Play Store that can also tell you the electrical current going into the battery. Perhaps by doing this you can determine if the problem is something in the tablet itself. If I think of anything else, I will let you know.
Thanks
Hey,
thanks for the feedback.
You mean battery (3)? I ordered battery (3) from ng-mobile.de
Funny that you say that with the "dead battery", because I just had the same thought 10 Minutes ago. Those batterys were manufactured years ago I guess and were just sitting cozy in their boxes, I guess they are deep discharged. (hope this vocab is correct).
I have pretty much everything that is measured "useless" in a normal household, but sadly no multi-meter (no more). If those batterys are deeply discharged, it should be possible to be reanimated with very low charging power. The lowest I should have is a USB 2.0 Port on my pc (which were it is connected right now) or a oldschool dumb power bank without any intelligence).
I will keep this updated.
solved
It worked. About an hour connected to a USB 2.0 port of my computer, and it just popped back into live. Thanks for sharing your thoughts with me!
There have been reports of the plugs of replacement batteries for these tablets not fitting properly.
Also bad solder joints at the battery connector.
And a certain behaviour i oberved myself, requiring certain custom roms or chargers in case of my P605:
In soft-off state tablet will charge at 0,5A instead of 2A max
and
When powered on it will charge at full power until the screen switches off and it enters standby. Then no charge at all.
The Nexus 7 2013 I have started charging intermittently. Replaced the battery as it was quite swollen. Eventually charging failed completely. Confirmed it was not the USB socket. Replaced the charging board ME571K_SUB with a new one. Still no charging. Will a Qi wireless charger work?
Any advice.
Thanks.
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machinist60 said:
The Nexus 7 2013 I have started charging intermittently. Replaced the battery as it was quite swollen. Eventually charging failed completely. Confirmed it was not the USB socket. Replaced the charging board ME571K_SUB with a new one. Still no charging. Will a Qi wireless charger work? Any advice. Thanks.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The N7's charging path:
1 charger
2 USB cable
3 daughterboard (replaced)
4 the wide, silver, ribbon cable + PCB connectors
5a motherboard
5b software
6 battery (replaced)
Are you sure about #1 and 2?
Have you re-seated #4 connector at the mobo's end?
5b - is it charging OK when OFF or in fastboot mode or in TWRP?
If the motherboard is faulty then Qi may not work but "no battery mod" will work for sure. A swollen battery indicates that your N7 is constantly being (over)charged, so the no-battery mod can be a perfect solution in this situation as you do not mind USB cable always connected.
Many thanks for your reply and the insight into the charging path, very helpful. The no battery mod is pretty major surgery!
Regards 1& 2 I have tried different chargers and cables to no effect. The female USB connector is solid and delivers power to the daughter board.
4. I checked the silver ribbon cable connectors at both ends and note there is a small amount of damage to some of the mother board connector contact pins. When time permits I'll ring out these contacts to check for open circuits. There has been trouble in the past with sensor connections in this connector because of the battery swelling pulling on the ribbon.
I'll report back.
I rang all conductors in the silver ribbon cable from the back ends of each connector, no open circuits. Resistances ranged from about .3 to .7 ohms. Still no charging.
Seeing the intermittent way the charging failed I think I have to conclude there is a hardware failure on the mother board and it is now toast.
Do you agree?
machinist60 said:
I rang all conductors in the silver ribbon cable from the back ends of each connector, no open circuits. Resistances ranged from about .3 to .7 ohms. Still no charging.
Seeing the intermittent way the charging failed I think I have to conclude there is a hardware failure on the mother board and it is now toast. Do you agree?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The silver ribbon cable's connectors and PCB soldering may be faulty. Please do these tests:
1. disconnect battery, connect charger, press power button
- the notification light blinks 5 times
2. disconnect battery, connect charger, measure voltage on pin #1 of the mobo's battery connector
- fluctuates around 4V
If both tests fail, I bet there is the silver connector's problem.
If only test #2 fails, the mobo is definitely faulty. Proceed with the no-battery mod
I performed both tests.
1. No flashing white light.
2. Close to 0 volts on battery connector pin #1.
Performed the "no battery mod" and all works well. That link led to many interesting posts.
Many thanks for your help. Have a great 2021.