Hi all,
My battery drains really fast, faster than normal if I see the replies to the calibration thread. After less than half a day (as in 6hours) with wifi turned on and "playing" a bit with it (exploring apps, check them out etc.), say about 2hours of intensive use, my battery is at 25%. It never lasted longer than 24h, that's with wifi off most of the time. Running CoPilot it lasts only 2-3hours. I tried the calibration for nexus one posted in android dev forum several times, including battery stats wipe. It's at 29% but overcharged says 3762mV, also if fully charged it never goes above a certain V which I don't remember right now but I'll post back when it's fully charged The V it stays at is a lot lower than the replies on the calibration thread said it should be, that's why I'm think my battery doesn't charge fully.
I'm running LeeDroiD with no setCPU.
Is this behavior normal? Do these mV's correspond with the batt %? (29% <> 3762mV)
Thanks!
I'm using Leedroid as well, but I don't see excessive battery usage.. Most of the time I can survive for > 12 hrs..
from my Desire + XDA App
I have the same problems as you with a short battery life, I upgraded the battery to one with a larger capacity but that makes no difference, I have been told that this is a common problem and a fix will be out in the near future from HTC.
I also use Co-Pilot and when I ran it the battery could not keep up, I bought a car charger from e-bay and it may be a fake and I now have the new charger with the USB plug and that works ok, if you have a car USB charger try using it with the original sync cable, if the battery stays full then the old charger is at fault. My understanding is that there are a lot of fake chargers and accessories out there and they look the part but do not supply enough power to run with the phone running Co-Pilot.
Hope this helps.
iveco420 said:
I have the same problems as you with a short battery life, I upgraded the battery to one with a larger capacity but that makes no difference, I have been told that this is a common problem and a fix will be out in the near future from HTC.
I also use Co-Pilot and when I ran it the battery could not keep up, I bought a car charger from e-bay and it may be a fake and I now have the new charger with the USB plug and that works ok, if you have a car USB charger try using it with the original sync cable, if the battery stays full then the old charger is at fault. My understanding is that there are a lot of fake chargers and accessories out there and they look the part but do not supply enough power to run with the phone running Co-Pilot.
Hope this helps.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for your reply. I meamt that woth copilot running on pure battery, with the charger connected no problems.. good to know that i'm not the only one woth this prob.
iveco420 said:
I have the same problems as you with a short battery life, I upgraded the battery to one with a larger capacity but that makes no difference, I have been told that this is a common problem and a fix will be out in the near future from HTC.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
A lot of the extended batteries on the market are well below their advertised capacities (see here). I've not heard of any official "fixes" for battery life, but then again I get 30+ hours from a charge,
Regards,
Dave
Yeah I'm not gonna buy a non-genuine battery; simply don't trust them.
I have spoken to HTC about the battery problem a few times and according to the guy I spoke too there is a patch that will be released soon, I dont know the exact details but it is supposed to help the battery life, my phone would be dead if I ran Co-Pilot for an hour.
I am now using a 1600mAH instead of the standerd 1400mAH, the battery is the same size as the original and was supplied from a trusted manufacturer. I have also killed my task killer and will wait and see what happens, some people say that its not neded or HTC would have built one into the software, so I will give it a go for a week or so and see what how it works out.
Well hope this "patch" helps and it'll be integrated in the custom roms. However, a task killer isn't necessary because of the way android is designed. Apps get hibernated as soon as they don't require any interaction/resources anymore (eg. Load a webpage and immediatly go to home; Internet will load its webpage and as soon as it's loaded the Internet app goes into hibernation so effectively its killed just takes some ram (i think), at least it doesn't use any resources at this point anymore).
Services, however, run continuously and do indeed take battery the whole time.
Ok, so I have an AT&T SIII running AOKP (was on CM 10, waiting for a bit better 10.1 stability in the Bluetooth department). I just found out how awesome the PS3's Dualshock 3 controller is for gaming on android. I'm considering purchasing a GameKlip for it.
-Anyway-
I know that the SIII's charging rate is capped somewhere between 750-1000 mA. I did some searching here on XDA, and it seems that buying a 2A charger wont charge the phone any faster because the charge rate is capped by the phone. I get that. My problem is that my phone will discharge 10% or more per hour on AC power (OC'd, brightness up, PS3 controller) while I'm gaming. I also understand that concept.
My question is: If I use a 2A charger, will the potential excess power prevent the phone from discharging while gaming, or will it be irrelevant? I assume the former.
While everyone is on the same topic, what is the highest charging rate that OEM's typically allow? Does say, HTC or Motorola tend to have higher rates? I'm not against switching to another phone (or carrier if I have to) if it means no discharging while gaming. The way it sits, if my battery is already low from using it during the day, and I come home from work to play some games, the battery will just die even though it's plugged in. Seems counter-intuitive to me. Other than this issue, I have my battery usage down to a SCIENCE, and I usually have idle drain less than 1%/hour while on WiFi with MINIMAL wakelocks. I think because of that, this drainage thing really drives me nuts!
What do you guys think?
Thanks!
- And yes, the poll question assumes you are on AC power.
rytymu said:
Ok, so I have an AT&T SIII running AOKP (was on CM 10, waiting for a bit better 10.1 stability in the Bluetooth department). I just found out how awesome the PS3's Dualshock 3 controller is for gaming on android. I'm considering purchasing a GameKlip for it.
-Anyway-
I know that the SIII's charging rate is capped somewhere between 750-1000 mA. I did some searching here on XDA, and it seems that buying a 2A charger wont charge the phone any faster because the charge rate is capped by the phone. I get that. My problem is that my phone will discharge 10% or more per hour (OC'd, brightness up, PS3 controller) while I'm gaming. I also understand that concept.
My question is: If I use a 2A charger, will the potential excess power prevent the phone from discharging while gaming, or will it be irrelevant? I assume the former.
While everyone is on the same topic, what is the highest charging rate that OEM's typically allow? Does say, HTC or Motorola tend to have higher rates? I'm not against switching to another phone (or carrier if I have to) if it means no discharging while gaming. The way it sits, if my battery is already low from using it during the day, and I come home from work to play some games, the battery will just die even though it's plugged in. Seems counter-intuitive to me. Other than this issue, I have my battery usage down to a SCIENCE, and I usually have idle drain less than 1%/hour while on WiFi with MINIMAL wakelocks. I think because of that, this drainage thing really drives me nuts!
What do you guys think?
Thanks!
- And yes, the poll question assumes you are on AC power.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Honestly, I've been using a 2A Charger since i purchased my phone three months ago. Im using the one from the nexus 7, but to answer your question.
I've noticed no difference in discharging using the 1A vs the 2A, the only factor that can that is your kernel and rom.
Since i've switch to a ktoonz kernel my battery life is improved by 75%. (using custom settings)
Also can i suggest possibly looking at a extended battery pack? I have both the gorilla gadgets and the hyperion. Both are amazing i was able to get 3 days on it, under heavy gaming 1.5 days.
Im using only a 3150maH battery right now, as i stopped gaming on my phone, bought a sick computer.
Funnily enough, I also use a DualShock 3 with my device on occasion, normally while on AC power. I've never noticed any power dips, but that may be because I'm not particularly pushing the device to its limits in the process.
Anyway, I think the meat of the matter is this: does the phone limit the amount of current entering via the micro-USB port (which is then split between battery charging and normal device usage), or does it limit the amount of current going into the battery? If it's the latter (which I'd consider more likely, given that the micro-USB port is expected to handle at least 1.8A), then you'll notice a benefit from using a more powerful charger under the circumstances. I don't actually know if that's the case, though.
Does your kernel support quick-charge? I don't know the science behind it, but it allows me to charge my phone from dead to 100% in less than half the time it normally takes.
exodus454 said:
Does your kernel support quick-charge? I don't know the science behind it, but it allows me to charge my phone from dead to 100% in less than half the time it normally takes.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes it does, but I thought fast charging only makes USB charging the same rate as AC charging (plus I heard it can permanently damage the USB interface)... Therefore my understanding is that the hardware charge cap still applies.
Busted my Moto, had to fall back to my trusty E980...
I can't use CM based ROMs because I rely heavily on BT and camera and both are a bit wonky in CM...
I've got a setup right now that I'm happy with (Henry Pham's excellent ROM) + Xposed, but it still charges pretty slow. I'm using a powerful charger- an Aukey 40W 8AMP (2.4a per port) and decent USB cables... my LG still takes far longer than my other devices to charge.
So, is there a 5.0.x ROM that does NOT charge super slow? Or is there a kernel or patch I don't know about?
You might have to enable quick charging. In my SlimLP the option is in Kernel Adiutor app, in battery settings. Before that, the phone could take only 500mA, but with that enabled - 1500mA.
How old is your battery? That can contribute...
this rom charges to fast, the faster one i've knew but the battery drains as fast as charges, is there a fix for this problem?
@elmanolette
Yes, there is.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/android/general/guide-extreme-battery-life-t3095884
Check that thread and follow their recommendations. You surely will be surprised.
Don't forget t consider buying a new battery. The zero lemon's ones are really good.
Hello everybody.
I just want to share with you guys what I found out.
I've been using custom ROMs and custom kernels for LG V30, and I faced a lot of issues. The most common issue is overheating, especially on charging or using mobile data.
I use Anker's adapter that supports Quick Charge 3.0, and an Anker USB-C to USB-3.0 cable. I use Ampere app to see how the battery is charge.
On custom ROMs, the ampere number (mA) changes every few seconds, jumps up and down with big gap, and the phone gets very hot.
On stock ROM (US99820H) in my case, mA number is very stable. It increases or decreases slowly and doesn't jump up and down. On plugging in, min and max mA are equal. The phone is just a little bit hotter than before plugging in.
So I just wanted to share my own experience with you guys. If you want you phone to last long, use Stock ROMs, disable bloatwares and useless system apps.
I'm going to purchase the battery and change it myself for better battery life. I wanted to change to another phone but for now, this is the best phone for music.
Please discuss if you disagree with me or have a solution for custom ROMs.
minhntp said:
Hello everybody.
I just want to share with you guys what I found out.
I've been using custom ROMs and custom kernels for LG V30, and I faced a lot of issues. The most common issue is overheating, especially on charging or using mobile data.
I use Anker's adapter that supports Quick Charge 3.0, and an Anker USB-C to USB-3.0 cable. I use Ampere app to see how the battery is charge.
On custom ROMs, the ampere number (mA) changes every few seconds, jumps up and down with big gap, and the phone gets very hot.
On stock ROM (US99820H) in my case, mA number is very stable. It increases or decreases slowly and doesn't jump up and down. On plugging in, min and max mA are equal. The phone is just a little bit hotter than before plugging in.
So I just wanted to share my own experience with you guys. If you want you phone to last long, use Stock ROMs, disable bloatwares and useless system apps.
I'm going to purchase the battery and change it myself for better battery life. I wanted to change to another phone but for now, this is the best phone for music.
Please discuss if you disagree with me or have a solution for custom ROMs.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I also felt the same...Though the charging speed on custom roms is higher...in terms of stability of current, Stock Rom is the best.
minhntp said:
Hello everybody.
I just want to share with you guys what I found out.
I've been using custom ROMs and custom kernels for LG V30, and I faced a lot of issues. The most common issue is overheating, especially on charging or using mobile data.
I use Anker's adapter that supports Quick Charge 3.0, and an Anker USB-C to USB-3.0 cable. I use Ampere app to see how the battery is charge.
On custom ROMs, the ampere number (mA) changes every few seconds, jumps up and down with big gap, and the phone gets very hot.
On stock ROM (US99820H) in my case, mA number is very stable. It increases or decreases slowly and doesn't jump up and down. On plugging in, min and max mA are equal. The phone is just a little bit hotter than before plugging in.
So I just wanted to share my own experience with you guys. If you want you phone to last long, use Stock ROMs, disable bloatwares and useless system apps.
I'm going to purchase the battery and change it myself for better battery life. I wanted to change to another phone but for now, this is the best phone for music.
Please discuss if you disagree with me or have a solution for custom ROMs.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
In terms of stability, I have different results, when I charge using a custom rom the phone tends to stay cool, but when I used the stock rom the phone got a lot hotter then before charging.
Custom ROMs may not be utilizing QC properly. QC 2.0 has few discrete voltage/current steps, while QC 3.0 has many (200mA increments iirc) designed to strike a balance between charging speed and heat. Maybe it's getting stuck in QC 2.0 mode and the temperature feedback isn't working properly?
You could just use a non-fast-charging wireless charger, if you're only charging up at night. 5v/~1A is pretty much harmless, it's just on the slow side of things.
fyi, battery capacity (as tracked by the charging controller driver, I guess) is stored at sys/class/power_supply/bms/charge_full; it defaults to design capacity until a full charge cycle has been completed* and then I suppose is revised each time the driver tracks less energy has been stored after a complete charge. Cycle count, cell resistance and a couple other things are also stored here. I think all values are persistent until the battery is physically disconnected.
Might be worth doing a full discharge+charge (to 100%, then let it sit for a few hours to saturate) to see if your battery is worn enough to warrant pulling the phone apart. Accubattery does seem to be more or less accurate, so you charge while it's on you can get a real-time idea of how much has gone in.
* a full charge might be from 1% to 100%. It might be from 5% to 100%. Who knows! I've charged from 2% to 100% a couple times and not had cycle_count increase.
Also, if you do go shopping, beware of undersized batteries. I bought an "OE spec" battery a while ago that was obviously thinner and lighter than the original; it weighed some 12.5% less and only took a 3000mah charge, more or less lining up with the reduced weight. The seller was "tele*cell", and I very much doubt they're the only ones pulling this crap. Record the contents of power_supply/bms if they're important to you, too, as they zero out upon battery disconnect.
edit: hmm, thinking about it...bms = Battery Management System? (not this one specifically, of course)
Septfox said:
Also, if you do go shopping, beware of undersized batteries. I bought an "OE spec" battery a while ago that was obviously thinner and lighter than the original; it weighed some 12.5% less and only took a 3000mah charge, more or less lining up with the reduced weight. The seller was "tele*cell", and I very much doubt they're the only ones pulling this crap. Record the contents of power_supply/bms if they're important to you, too, as they zero out upon battery disconnect.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It is possible that you bought a smaller battery - but you should know that the capacity of Li** batteries increases within the first couple of cycles. Also usually the nominal capacity might be different from the real (typical) capacity. So you would need to meassure a.new original battery against your replacement battery (not take the value LG tells us for.granted)
daniu said:
It is possible that you bought a smaller battery - but you should know that the capacity of Li** batteries increases within the first couple of cycles. Also usually the nominal capacity might be different from the real (typical) capacity. So you would need to meassure a.new original battery against your replacement battery (not take the value LG tells us for.granted)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Li-po capacity hasn't really gone anywhere in a while, and I wouldn't expect cheap eBay batteries to be using the newest and best chemistry. It was definitely undersize/weight; I attached some pictures.
Because I wanted to be absolutely sure before I called the seller on it, I purposefully ran it four full cycles, then built up another two during normal use. The best capacity that the BMS ever rated it for was 2980mah, while Accubattery put in something like...3060mah once with subsequent charges in the 2900-3000 range.
While I get what you're saying, I find it unlikely that the BMS would set to the expected design capacity if they were using undersize batteries from the factory.
The reason being that at a guess, the battery "fuel gauge" is probably based on capacity_full, which = capacity_full_design until set. With a new phone that isn't charged to 100% (thus setting capacity_full), if using the phone down to 1% you'd risk either a) the phone suddenly shutting down at ~10% or b) overdischarge damage if the battery is actually less than the phone's design capacity.
Kind of a corner case though, I'll admit, since this would only be on the first run.
Last, I submit my own OEM battery for consideration: prior to taking it out, it had accumulated 537 cycles and had a recorded capacity of 2485mah. That's about what I'd expect from a 3300mah battery that was almost certainly used "normally" e.g. discharged daily, charged nightly and left on the tap at full charge for hours on end.
Like you said, though, the only way to know for sure would be testing a new OEM battery, and we've been fresh out of those for a year and a half now. Maybe someone could nab one from one of their newer models and test for science? I already have too many spare lipo cells laying around.
Septfox said:
Custom ROMs may not be utilizing QC properly. QC 2.0 has few discrete voltage/current steps, while QC 3.0 has many (200mA increments iirc) designed to strike a balance between charging speed and heat. Maybe it's getting stuck in QC 2.0 mode and the temperature feedback isn't working properly?
You could just use a non-fast-charging wireless charger, if you're only charging up at night. 5v/~1A is pretty much harmless, it's just on the slow side of things.
fyi, battery capacity (as tracked by the charging controller driver, I guess) is stored at sys/class/power_supply/bms/charge_full; it defaults to design capacity until a full charge cycle has been completed* and then I suppose is revised each time the driver tracks less energy has been stored after a complete charge. Cycle count, cell resistance and a couple other things are also stored here. I think all values are persistent until the battery is physically disconnected.
Might be worth doing a full discharge+charge (to 100%, then let it sit for a few hours to saturate) to see if your battery is worn enough to warrant pulling the phone apart. Accubattery does seem to be more or less accurate, so you charge while it's on you can get a real-time idea of how much has gone in.
* a full charge might be from 1% to 100%. It might be from 5% to 100%. Who knows! I've charged from 2% to 100% a couple times and not had cycle_count increase.
Also, if you do go shopping, beware of undersized batteries. I bought an "OE spec" battery a while ago that was obviously thinner and lighter than the original; it weighed some 12.5% less and only took a 3000mah charge, more or less lining up with the reduced weight. The seller was "tele*cell", and I very much doubt they're the only ones pulling this crap. Record the contents of power_supply/bms if they're important to you, too, as they zero out upon battery disconnect.
edit: hmm, thinking about it...bms = Battery Management System? (not this one specifically, of course)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Do you have sleep problem after changing the battery? After changing the battery, my phone doesn't go to sleep when the screen is off, so the battery just keeps draining. I'm using stock ROM. I don't know if this is a software of hardware issue.
minhntp said:
Do you have sleep problem after changing the battery? After changing the battery, my phone doesn't go to sleep when the screen is off, so the battery just keeps draining. I'm using stock ROM. I don't know if this is a software of hardware issue.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The only thing notable that happened was the battery stats getting wiped. Otherwise the phone behaved normally.
Try getting BetterBatteryStats, second post has the newest apk attached (2.3 iirc).
Start it up to get it established, Set Custom Ref. from the menu, shut the screen off for...ehh...20min.
Turn it back on, select Custom in the left drop-down menu and Current in the right drop-down menu.
Check Kernel Wakelocks and Partial Wakelocks using the top drop-down menu to see if anything sticks out.
Septfox said:
Li-po capacity hasn't really gone anywhere in a while, and I wouldn't expect cheap eBay batteries to be using the newest and best chemistry. It was definitely undersize/weight; I attached some pictures.
Because I wanted to be absolutely sure before I called the seller on it, I purposefully ran it four full cycles, then built up another two during normal use. The best capacity that the BMS ever rated it for was 2980mah, while Accubattery put in something like...3060mah once with subsequent charges in the 2900-3000 range.
While I get what you're saying, I find it unlikely that the BMS would set to the expected design capacity if they were using undersize batteries from the factory.
The reason being that at a guess, the battery "fuel gauge" is probably based on capacity_full, which = capacity_full_design until set. With a new phone that isn't charged to 100% (thus setting capacity_full), if using the phone down to 1% you'd risk either a) the phone suddenly shutting down at ~10% or b) overdischarge damage if the battery is actually less than the phone's design capacity.
Kind of a corner case though, I'll admit, since this would only be on the first run.
Last, I submit my own OEM battery for consideration: prior to taking it out, it had accumulated 537 cycles and had a recorded capacity of 2485mah. That's about what I'd expect from a 3300mah battery that was almost certainly used "normally" e.g. discharged daily, charged nightly and left on the tap at full charge for hours on end.
Like you said, though, the only way to know for sure would be testing a new OEM battery, and we've been fresh out of those for a year and a half now. Maybe someone could nab one from one of their newer models and test for science? I already have too many spare lipo cells laying around.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What is the full capacity when you put those 2 battery in?
I just bought a battery. This new one has 6 symbols each line (like the one you bought) and 2 lines of manufactured date. The old (original) one has 5 symbols each line and also 2 lines of manufatured date.
When I check "charge_full" after full charging, it shows 3312000 for the original battery and 3230000 for the new one, while the "charge_full_design" being 3312000 for both battery.
minhntp said:
What is the full capacity when you put those 2 battery in?
I just bought a battery. This new one has 6 symbols each line (like the one you bought) and 2 lines of manufactured date. The old (original) one has 5 symbols each line and also 2 lines of manufatured date.
When I check "charge_full" after full charging, it shows 3312000 for the original battery and 3230000 for the new one, while the "charge_full_design" being 3312000 for both battery.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
All three batteries I've had showed the same 3312000 charge_full_design. But I'm not sure if this is relevant to us, aside from as a reference to compare to.
Out of curiosity and so I don't purposely give outright bad information, I went and looked at the kernel (up on github courtesy of lunar-kernels).
3300mah design capacity is set when the kernel is built (BLT34 battery profile, which is grabbed by the power manager).
I'm not sure where the number "3312000" specifically is coming from. I can't read the source for the BMS well enough to tell why it's coming up with that number, aside from it's a calculated result based on more than just the design capacity.
Based on the above and other behavior, I don't think any permanent information is stored with or retrieved from the battery itself; design parameters are set in the BLT34 profile and then the BMS amends certain things as it takes measurements. It assumes that whatever attached battery is actually 3300/3312mah until proven otherwise (calibrated with sufficient cycling).
Said measurements are stored ~somewhere~ outside of the ROM, recovery and download mode - mine persisted through the LAFsploit process and TWRP on both partitions - and cleared when power is lost. Maybe they're stored in RAM somewhere? Maybe the BMS notices the discontinuity in power and assumes a battery change, resetting everything? I'll try making sense of the kernel source to see...
The labeling difference is curious, and something I hadn't really given thought to. The newer ones have NOM and NYCE marks, which are Mexican safety approval things. It's interesting that the originals don't have them; maybe because LG doesn't make phones for the Mexican market and thus saw no need? I doubt these third-party manufacturers have gone out of their way to actually obtain said approval...probably just stuck them there to satisfy customs.
I bought a battery from another seller and installed it this weekend; it uses the 12-symbol style as well, has date+date code like the original (dated a rather shiny 2019.09.08!), and weighs the expected 48g/has an OE-style "stepped" back making it thicker.
Seems to charge fully and otherwise work as expected. charge_full still = charge_full_design, I'm not sure if this is because the BMS has determined that it's an OEM-capacity battery, or it hasn't cycled sufficiently to update. Gonna keep an eye on it. Pictures attached.
Edit: battery listing on ebay. Note if anyone else buys it: the suction cup that came with mine was 100% useless. Plan accordingly.
-
A further note on the smaller battery I bought: it did perform admirably. It had no issues when using the phone as a power supply (~2.5A sustained output), right down to where I stopped it at 5%, which is rather abusive for cells in this form-factor. It was just...well...smaller. It certainly wasn't a bad battery at all, it was just misrepresented. Lighter/slightly-smaller batteries would make great travel batteries, if the V30 were swap-friendly...
-
@Septfox
I hope you bought a good one.
The battery I bought lasts long, but also takes long to charge (about 2 hours). The phone shows fast-charging but when I check battery log in Hidden menu, it shows only Quick charge 2.0.
I found a way to reset the battery information, hopefully sellers don't use this to reset the cycle count.
There's a thread on xda that shows a method to reset battery information on HTC phones. That is holding down 2 volume buttons + power button (volume down + power for LG V30) in 2 minutes while the phone is being charged, let the phone restart as many times it takes in 2 minutes. And then charge the phone to full.
I did that and when I check in Hidden menu, the battery information was resetted to 3312000 full capacity and 0 cycle count.
minhntp said:
@Septfox
The battery I bought lasts long, but also takes long to charge (about 2 hours). The phone shows fast-charging but when I check battery log in Hidden menu, it shows only Quick charge 2.0.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
QC 3.0 wouldn't outright increase the speed any; it exists to help reduce heat and provide more consistent charging.
If it makes you feel any better, mine is also getting stuck on QC 2.0. Judging by the way the Parallel Charging status flickers on and off as I move the cable and put pressure on the connector, I could probably stand to get a new charging port...
This is why wireless charging is a good idea. But now that I think about it, replacement boards are cheap on ebay ($5), so replacing it each time the battery is changed might be a good bit of cheap maintenance to do :good:
Have you tried a different cable and/or charger to see if your charging improves? Maybe you need a new port, too.
minhntp said:
I found a way to reset the battery information, hopefully sellers don't use this to reset the cycle count.
There's a thread on xda that shows a method to reset battery information on HTC phones. That is holding down 2 volume buttons + power button (volume down + power for LG V30) in 2 minutes while the phone is being charged, let the phone restart as many times it takes in 2 minutes. And then charge the phone to full.
I did that and when I check in Hidden menu, the battery information was resetted to 3312000 full capacity and 0 cycle count.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I find this slightly alarming, actually...
The normal button combination to hard-reset the phone is power+vol down. This might just be what's happening, and by making the phone do it repeatedly, the firmware might be interpreting it as a bootloop condition caused by something in memory and completely disconnecting power in an attempt to mitigate it (clearing the battery stats in the process). Probably harmless though.
Dunno that a seller would bother trying it, though. What do they get out of it, other than a seemingly-new battery with less capacity than it should have? It would just recalibrate when charged and show the real capacity in the hidden menu, and the game would be up :v
Septfox said:
QC 3.0 wouldn't outright increase the speed any; it exists to help reduce heat and provide more consistent charging.
If it makes you feel any better, mine is also getting stuck on QC 2.0
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
All V30 always show QuickCharge 2.0 in Nougat as well as Oreo. Not sure about Pie.
Speculation was it was a script error, that it was really 3.0 -- but falsely shows 2.0.
Can't remember if it was ever proven one way or the other.
I do remember people say it now charges slower on Pie. Again speculative because LG knows batteries are older?
I'm still on rooted Oreo, so I don't care.
ChazzMatt said:
I do remember people say it now charges slower on Pie. Again speculative because LG knows batteries are older?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't notice my phone charging any different. Even when using wired.
Sent from my LG-H932 using XDA Labs
ChazzMatt said:
All V30 always show QuickCharge 2.0 in Nougat as well as Oreo. Not sure about Pie.
Speculation was it was a script error, that it was really 3.0 -- but falsely shows 2.0.
Can't remember if it was ever proven one way or the other.
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I read "the display may not be correct, so you should totally use this as an excuse to get a newer charger-doctor that supports QC".
...and you're completely right, I'm gonna go do that :v
ChazzMatt said:
I do remember people say it now charges slower on Pie. Again speculative because LG knows batteries are older?
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Or to mitigate further aging by reducing internal heat. I also remember seeing somewhere that it was limited to 12w or 13w, now that you mention it, though that might have been for 15w wireless which has a reputation for slow-cooking the battery (in any phone, not just the V30).