Black screen, only backlight works. Everything else is ok. - Galaxy Note 10.1 (2014 Edition) Q&A, Help & Troubl

Hi
Sorry for my english, I'm hungarian, this is the best I can do.
So I bought a cheap (but not too cheap) SM-P905, but I can't get the screen to work properly.
The touch layer, the spen, the backlight works well, I managed to mirror the screen on my pc and everything else seems to be okay.
I got off the back cover, I tried to unplug and reattach every flex cable, even the battery. I tried to look everything under magnifying glass to see what could be the problem.
The lcd flex connector looks like this under my lens.
(Upload it in the next post, not working from the android app)
I tried to clean it with a needle, but it still looks like it is corroded or melted.
Is it possible that replacing this connector will get the screen back to normal? (I found flex connector replacement on the internet)
Or is it possible to repair it with some jumpers or something like this?
Is it melted because of some shorted circuit somewhere else, or because of a bad micro capacitor?
How and where can I locate and resolve this problem (s)? Maybe is it still the lcd that is simply dead and I can't bring it back to life?
I dont want to buy a screen, and a motherboard (neither only one of them )
Thank you for your help!

Okay the forum doesnt let me to insert links or photos, because I'm new here -.-
/s/53oab9sykbihn32/20151021_175009.jpg?dl=0 write dropbox dot com in front of link

https://www.dropbox.com/s/53oab9sykbihn32/20151021_175009.jpg?dl=0
In my opinion it died!!

I hoped for better opinions
I wanted to know how this thing can die?
It has to be caused by something.
Bad resistor/capacitor? Is it on the motherboard or on the lcd's circuitboard?? Or is it only the corroded flex connector??
I dont want to throw the whole tablet in the trash. Everything else is just operating fine.
If nobody can answer this, where should I write, where people can help with these very small components / resoldering / measuring what gone wrong here?

Alan-B said:
In my opinion it died!!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So today I measured the pins in worst condition. There are 2 pins that I tought can cause the problem and looks corroded. (Number 5 and 9 from the right) Both of them !are not used!. (There is a total of 3 pins that are not used on the connector/cable)
They are not lead through the flex cable, they have no function here.
So the problem comes from somewhere else, but I still don't know why they look like this.
Maybe I will try to seperate the screen from the body and look at it closer and its connectors/smaller circuit boards.
Sent from my SM-N9005 using XDA Free mobile app

Hmm, that pic does not make me think its a corrosion problem. At best, it can lead to a finicky connection, but there seems to be enough there for proper electrical contact. If this were a headphone jack, for example, I would say apply pressure near the cable to see if the headset works properly, and if it does, then I know its a cable problem. No idea if you can try to apply pressure to the cable and see if the LCD turns on.
If the screen mirrors on the TV successfully, then there are a bunch of Samsung Service Codes you can use to test the LCD. Unfortunately I do not know them for this model, but google should get you the service menu very easily. There is definitely a test in there for the LCD that should give you a better idea what to expect.
If the cable is pretty cheap, I would also just pick up one and try replacing. Nothing to lose! AND if you have access to another identical device, you can try to stick this LCD on that device to see if its the LCD thats the problem or the motherboard.
Lastly, I would want to know if the glass on that LCD has ever been replaced. If they did a glass only replacement, its possible they overheated the LCD ... OR used too much LOCA glue that shorted the connectors.
Many possibilities, so I wouldn't call it a day yet. First, look for the service menu, thats the best place to begin.

I will try the service codes.
Unfortunately I don't have more devices. The easiest way would be to test the identical parts on a working one, but I don't know anyone who would risk his/her tablet for this
The other thing I can do is to get another lcd-glass unit from ebay or from ifixit and try it. If the problem was the lcd, it should work, I'm happy, but if its black, I will have (maybe) 2 working lcd units for sale. Or I have to get a new motherboard (sounds expansive).
I don't think that they replaced the glass on this device, it looks very used and scratchy, so it was working before.
Thank you for taking your time for me and answering my dumb questions!!
Sent from my SM-N9005 using XDA Free mobile app

There are more good news than bad, so I'm very happy.
So 1-2 days ago I started to get off the screen to see if I can seperate the LCD from the receiver. Turned out its not that hard. The only hard thing is to get it off the body in one piece. Lots of heating with a hair drier, and a LOT OF PATIENCE. If you can get it off in one piece you are on your way.
Seperating the glass from the LCD is very easy, did it in 10 minutes, I don't think it needs heating...
So I did it, then I saw some water damage (white things) on the back side of the LCD. There is a small board here too, so I cleaned the white thing off with some alcohol.
Then I put the lcd back and voilá, Its WORKING!!!
The only problem is that I damaged the touch screen glass, so I need to order a new one, but its under 20$ so no problem.
Thank you all for your help, I hope that I finished here
Sent from my SM-N9005 using XDA Free mobile app

Good to know! Thank you for the update

Other solution is remove battery five minute and reconnect battery

Related

[Q] Help! - DZ Repair Mission, Advice Needed.

My First Post! How's it going everybody! (Newb Alert)
I just purchased a Bell HTC Desire Z from a classified ad off of an older man who found that the phone wasn't fully functioning. The poor guy probably paid around $400CDN for the phone, but I ended up eventually buying it from him for $250.
Here is what is wrong with the phone:
1. Power Button-does not work, neither on or off...basically fully unfunctional and only way to turn phone off is battery pull...fun stuff! (planning on using the Teardown/Repair guide by verkion - recommended?)
2. The In-Call speaker (where you put your ear while talking on the phone) seems to have very limited sound, perhaps something has been destroyed on the inside, how all other sound mechanisms work, such as the external speaker and internal speaker w/ headphones. (planning on using the Teardown/Repair guide by verkion - recommended?)
3. The Digitizer, well parts of it (along the left edge of the phone when upright) are unresponsive, so called blind spots which when touched are unresponsive on the digital keyboard along with the home button (house shaped icon) - especially frustrating when browsing web pages because I have to click back like 10 times to get home... (planning on using the Teardown/Repair guide by verkion - recommended?)
4. It is a Bell branded phone, Locations does not work! however I have done the research on the forums and I think I can figure out the whole Rooting thing out, but advice is appreciated! (planning on using gtrab's FAQ for Dummies for the rooting, s-off, and de-branding)
Now...I am not really technologically inclined to the level most of you probably are, but I am good with my hands and really interested/curious about this whole mission I need to complete, so I can fix this phone myself instead of paying $100 for cell phone repair...plus its a nice challenge right?
Do you guys recommend that I take care, or at least attempt to fix the power button issue before I root the phone to a previous, unbranded firmware which will allow me to use Locations? This only makes sense right, because I am going to need the power button for that process?
I know this is a lot to ask, but I just need some pushes and shoves to get me on the right track to try and get this to work, so if it is technologically impossible or excessive...please let me know how I can fix 4 of these problems methodically in a safe and professional way!
Once again, I appreciate it.
Thanks in Advance
EDIT: My prediction is that the individual who originally owned this phone dropped it and as a result the digitizer, power button, and speaker were all affected...but of course I am no expert.
To me it sounds like the flex cable has been damaged. It would definitely cause all these things at once.
I'm pretty sure you need to fix the power button before rooting because you need the power button to actually root it.
Hmmm,
Never thought of that but it sure seems like a better diagnosis. The flex cable originates in the bottom half of the phone in the same compartment that the z hinge is found right?
It is also the flexible strip that runs through the middle of the phone when the hinge is half-way positioned, connecting the lcd/digitizer to the main motherboard of the phone?
I geuss replacing the flex cable would still involve the Teardown/Repair, however I dont think I will need to replace a power button, speaker, or digitizer IF!...that is the case.
Any other ideas on this?
TheToiletSpaula said:
Hmmm,
The flex cable originates in the bottom half of the phone in the same compartment that the z hinge is found right?
...
It is also the flexible strip that runs through the middle of the phone when the hinge is half-way positioned, connecting the lcd/digitizer to the main motherboard of the phone?
I geuss replacing the flex cable would still involve the Teardown/Repair, however I dont think I will need to replace a power button, speaker, or digitizer IF!...that is the case.
Any other ideas on this?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes thats the flex cable, it is built into the pcb behind the lcd, so the whole pcb has to be replaced AFAIK. Yes it requires a full tear down to do it, fairly basic to do, my phone is in pieces atm because the lcd needs replacing.
If the flex cable is the problem then none of those parts need replacing, it would be very unlikely in my opinion for all those parts to fail from a drop without it being flex cable related, possible though.
Link to the teardown, some steps in the middle are unneccesary for what you need. http://tjworld.net/blog/htc-desire-z-tear-down
elliott2705 said:
Yes thats the flex cable, it is built into the pcb behind the lcd, so the whole pcb has to be replaced AFAIK. Yes it requires a full tear down to do it, fairly basic to do, my phone is in pieces atm because the lcd needs replacing.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hey, do you know where I can get a replacement pcb if I decide to take that route man? Seems hard to find that as a single part for sale...
I assume people replace their whole phone if they have a problem like mine :/
You wasted your freaking money on that phone!
250 is a huge waste!
You might as well add a line to your friends for the contract price.
melodicjunkie said:
You wasted your freaking money on that phone!
250 is a huge waste!
You might as well add a line to your friends for the contract price.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
it's not THAT bad...considering a brand new one unlocked DZ goes for 450+ and i knew I could fix parts of the phone so for -200 cheaper...i don't know bro!
I just need to know if a replacement pcb is possible to get, or maybe just the flex cable is damaged in which I wouldn't need to replace something so crucial.
Who knows what to do?
EDIT: 450 where I live...Ontario, CA.
...i dunno...could even be water damage that did the deed to that phone....in which case you could be replacing a pcb...or not....I've seen water-loged phones come back to life before....sad thing is it might cost you a few to fix it properly...
Totally agree 250 was to steep...that guy probably paid 79 on contract for it....
Sent from my HTC Vision using XDA App
tvnaderwal said:
...i dunno...could even be water damage that did the deed to that phone....in which case you could be replacing a pcb...or not....I've seen water-loged phones come back to life before....sad thing is it might cost you a few to fix it properly...
Totally agree 250 was to steep...that guy probably paid 79 on contract for it....
Sent from my HTC Vision using XDA App
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Wow about the whole coming back to life thing you just said...thats exactly what my digitizer just did, so the left side of my lcd is now working including the home button!
Im guessing the touch panel ribbon was loose but it somehow shifted to functionality.
Great...now for the in ear speaker and power button, and 250 wont seem too bad!
Edit: anyone know how I can look for past signs for water damage like a colored change in a sticker or something?
TheToiletSpaula said:
Wow about the whole coming back to life thing you just said...thats exactly what my digitizer just did, so the left side of my lcd is now working including the home button!
Im guessing the touch panel ribbon was loose but it somehow shifted to functionality.
Great...now for the in ear speaker and power button, and 250 wont seem too bad!
Edit: anyone know how I can look for past signs for water damage like a colored change in a sticker or something?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There are 2 water damaged indicator stickers, 1 under battery and, 1 under the back housing, you can see it through the opening where the top tab of the battery door latches.
Edit: Forgot.... 1 on the battery too.
What color would the stickers be? They are both white, does that mean anything?
If they are pink they got wet.
Sent from my HTC Vision using XDA Premium App
^^ What they said.... Pink or Red
250 is quite a bit for a device with issues, but good news is it isn't water damage by the sounds of it.
I'm an aviation electronic tech, and your symptoms definetly sound like a loose interface ribbon. If I were u id haul it apart and reseat the flex cable you guys are talking about. I would put a 85% chance that's the issue.
good luck, and welcome fellow canuck to xda and dz family
Sent from my HTC Vision using XDA Premium App
Sounds good guys.
However...even if it is probably the flex cable that is causing the remainder of my problems:
1. the in call speaker being super quiet
2. power button not working
Is there any other chance that the speaker and power button areas have loose connections? what should i look for when i open the phone aside from ribbon/flex cable connections?
I need to get the power button fixed because then i can move onto rom modifications and stuff to finally get locations!

[Q] LCD Flex Cable Connector Port Broken

Hello, I saw that someone else asked a similiar question before but they did not word the question correctly and got little help.
On my HTC EVO logic board, there's three tan "ports" (I don't know what they are actually called). One for the front camera, one for the LCD, and one for the front panel.
While walking home one day, my screen started showing a dark spot. The spot got bigger, and I decided to take apart my phone (something I'd done before a few times) and try to clean things up. I put everything back together, and the LCD would not come on. After numerous tries, I finally decided the LCD was damaged. As I went back in the phone, I saw that regardless of whether you flipped the black tab on top of the LCD tan 'port' back or forward, the cable was capable of being pulled out, e.g., it was not secure. At the time, I thought nothing of it, but now that my new LCD should be here, I'm worried.
Is my LCD not working because the 'port' is broken? If so, what can I do to repair it? (I heard it is very difficult). I'm worried, because I paid a lot to buy a new LCD and will be unable to send it back.
http://guide-images.ifixit.net/igi/ZYHLZwIIVhjilEpT.large
Also, my front panel cable never sits 'perfectly'..that is, I have to connect everything else first, and then try my best with the front panel. The tape does not stay down flat completely.
These sorts of connectors can be fixed,but there is quite a bit of skill involved. Upload a picture and I can tell you better how hard it is. What I can tell you is that you probably cant do it yourself. I base this on the fact that those who have the necesesary skils will instantly know its going to be a pain. In fact,its easy to screw it up ,and sometimes you do,even if you DO know what your doing. Since I dont want to take my phone apart,Ill need to see a picture of it before I can tell you anything more. One thing to keep in mind is that sometimes the ribbon cable CAN be pulled out anyway,and is making good contact and there is some other problem. If you have not installed the new LCD,install it and see if it all works. If so,your good to go. As a general rule,the connectors are delicate and its not a good idea to pull them out. In fact,dont disconnect them if you dont have to. They have a limited number of connect/disconects they can take and they are very easy to break.
pflatlyne said:
These sorts of connectors can be fixed,but there is quite a bit of skill involved. Upload a picture and I can tell you better how hard it is. What I can tell you is that you probably cant do it yourself. I base this on the fact that those who have the necesesary skils will instantly know its going to be a pain. In fact,its easy to screw it up ,and sometimes you do,even if you DO know what your doing. Since I dont want to take my phone apart,Ill need to see a picture of it before I can tell you anything more. One thing to keep in mind is that sometimes the ribbon cable CAN be pulled out anyway,and is making good contact and there is some other problem. If you have not installed the new LCD,install it and see if it all works. If so,your good to go. As a general rule,the connectors are delicate and its not a good idea to pull them out. In fact,dont disconnect them if you dont have to. They have a limited number of connect/disconects they can take and they are very easy to break.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well, I don't really have a means of taking a quality photo except with my computer webcam but I'll try in a second. I can't really show you because there isn't much to see. The little black bar that flips up and down to 'lock' the port is ineffective; the cable can be pulled out regardless. I know I can't fix the port/connector by myself, so I'm hoping that's not the issue. You have given me a lot of hope though. The new LCD should be here by Wednesday at the latest, so I'll be able to test it then.
Does my front panel affect the LCD? Since I dropped my phone on the corner, even with a new panel it does not sit 'perfectly'. I don't think they're related though.
BluRngerGurl said:
Well, I don't really have a means of taking a quality photo except with my computer webcam but I'll try in a second. I can't really show you because there isn't much to see. The little black bar that flips up and down to 'lock' the port is ineffective; the cable can be pulled out regardless. I know I can't fix the port/connector by myself, so I'm hoping that's not the issue. You have given me a lot of hope though. The new LCD should be here by Wednesday at the latest, so I'll be able to test it then.
Does my front panel affect the LCD? Since I dropped my phone on the corner, even with a new panel it does not sit 'perfectly'. I don't think they're related though.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I dont think so. I bet your ok. Just dont keep playing with the connector. I know,Ive done it. I sit there messing with it,wondering,is it broken? Is it good? Then the little black peice comes off in your hand or the plastic breaks and "well its sure broken now!" Remember,that little latch does not so much hold the cable in place as hold the cable against the contacts,if its making contact,its good to go.
Hi, all. The new LCD I receieved did not work. There are very minor differences in the two; such as some type of blue gunk on the silver part of the LCD, the connector is more of a dark orange on the new one while the original is a yellow-orange, etc. Also, again, the connector does not 100% fit in the slot. It goes in, but a small corner sticks out a bit and you have to either hold it in or clip it in [which I can't, because the black clip is broken].
The only possibilities I can think of are
A] Because the little black thing is damaged, no LCD will work in it. Therefore I need a new phone.
B] The LCD does not work.
C] The LCD is the wrong size.
At this point I want to just give up and get a new phone, which is very heart-wrenching because I love my EVO and I doubt I can afford the only other phone I like, the Samsung Galaxy S II Epic Touch 4G.
Is anyone able to identify what connector is used on this phone for the LCD? I broke a pin on the connector while trying to repair a cracked screen. I would like to buy it and re-solder it on to fix the phone.
Can someone link the correct connector maybe from digikey.com?
Broken latch
I too have a problem with the connector... the plastic part that connects the ribbon cable to the main board has broken. There must be a place to buy these tiny plastic latches... does anyone know? Your assistance will be greatly appreciated!
Mac-

[Q] DHD booting, but no display activity. How to repair?

Hi all. In need of a bit of advice here. Hope this is in the right forum.
My beloved DHD has suffered from one too many falls. Despite being protected in an Otterbox Commuter case, he now lies on his deathbed. Even though I was considering an upgrade, I'm thinking I might want to stretch out his life for as long as possible instead. So I've come here to ask for repair advice.
- The phone seems structurally sound from the outside, no damage besides minor aesthetic scratches from before the phone was protected by the Otterbox.
- It appears to boot. Makes the vibration noise etc. Heck the alarm even went off the other morning, at the set time of 0630.
- Screen does not function at all. Lifeless. But not broken in any way externally. Because of this, had to pull the battery to shut the alarm off.
- When plugged in to charge, charging light indicator does not illuminate.
Any ideas?
Sent from my nipple running windows 95 NT.
Cheers, although I'm gonna try a different approach for now.
Any ideas? Can anyone point me in the right direction of some advice?
Sounds like 2 things. Broken lcd and a broken charging port. It wouldn't be worth repairing. You could buy one second hand on ebay for aboot £120.
Sent from my nipple running windows 95 NT.
Thanks for that. Considering trying to sell it broken, for parts. Only thing that concerns me is any sensitive data that may be readily accessed by someone who knows how to get to it.
Is there a way to wipe it?
You could use another dhd with the same firmware and copy the key/button presses and reset it in bootloader mode.
Sent from my laser emitting mammary glands.
Could also be that the connector for the screen has been dislodged due to being drop to many times you mite try opening it up and see if it is that.
lincolnep said:
Could also be that the connector for the screen has been dislodged due to being drop to many times you mite try opening it up and see if it is that.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi, thanks for the response. So I assume you're referring to this part here?
http://www.parts4repair.com/htc-desire-hd-lcd-screen-fpc-connector/
Seen in this disassembly video from the 3:05 minute mark?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JfatoeWbMRk
bump...
I have a problem similar to yours. But in my case, I'd turned the phone off to go to the cinema and the LCD and touch never turned on again.
In order to erase your data, did you try overwriting a stock rom? (In case it's just the charging LED that is broken)
That sucks! Self detonating phone. Does yours still vibrate and 'turn on'?
Haven't actually managed to clear the data. I'm ordering this part here (http://www.parts4repair.com/htc-desire-hd-lcd-screen-fpc-connector/) and I'm going to attempt to pull it apart and fix it.
If I can get it to work again I'll sell the One V I'm using and go back to the old faithful!
Well this saves me from starting a new thread haha
Anyway i am having the exact same problem as you have.
My dad brought home a Desire HD from work wich was not working so i am trying to fix it.
The phone boots, it vibrates ones and after a minute it makes the boot sound.
But nothing responses and the lights wont turn on.
Also no charging light..
Also it does not charge but usb does connect.
Could this be the FPC connector or the screen?
Hmmm...interesting, exact same issue as mine.
Well, I've ordered the FPC connector replacement part I linked above...going to attempt to play around with it when it arrives and see if I can breathe new life into the phone. So I can tell you how that goes...
Although:
1. Would the charging light and screen problem be connected? Is this feasible? Or does it suggest something else is likely shot?
2. I believe the FPC connector requires a solder to replace. This could be a bit ambitious on my part to attempt to repair...any ideas on what sort of a solder would be suitable?
Sent from my HTC One V using xda premium
suitup said:
Hmmm...interesting, exact same issue as mine.
Well, I've ordered the FPC connector replacement part I linked above...going to attempt to play around with it when it arrives and see if I can breathe new life into the phone. So I can tell you how that goes...
Although:
1. Would the charging light and screen problem be connected? Is this feasible? Or does it suggest something else is likely shot?
2. I believe the FPC connector requires a solder to replace. This could be a bit ambitious on my part to attempt to repair...any ideas on what sort of a solder would be suitable?
Sent from my HTC One V using xda premium
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
no clean flux core solder would work best, preferably something very thin (about .015"). A small bottle of noclean flux would also help and you probably will need lead free solder as that is likely what they used on the board to begin with, and lead and leadfree dont typically mix as well.
Thanks for the quick reply...
Something like this?
http://www.oritech.com.au/productDetail.aspx?productID=23244
What sort of iron would be suited? Would any of these suit?
http://www.oritech.com.au/categories.aspx?categoryID=321
Would you say it'd be a difficult process? I've soldered before, but a that was a while ago in high school...
Also the cost of all this equipment will far outweigh the cost of the $3 FPC connector spare!
suitup said:
Thanks for the quick reply...
Something like this?
http://www.oritech.com.au/productDetail.aspx?productID=23244
What sort of iron would be suited? Would any of these suit?
http://www.oritech.com.au/categories.aspx?categoryID=321
Would you say it'd be a difficult process? I've soldered before, but a that was a while ago in high school...
Also the cost of all this equipment will far outweigh the cost of the $3 FPC connector spare!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
yes, those should both work fine. ya it is costly for equipment. i have a edsyn iron i use at home and solder i get from work. i would say it can be tricky, i havent seen the connector but im sure its similar to other inline ribbon connectors. remember, short burst soldering, heating it for too long will take the pad off the pcb, and repairing THAT can become very difficult.
suitup said:
Hmmm...interesting, exact same issue as mine.
Well, I've ordered the FPC connector replacement part I linked above...going to attempt to play around with it when it arrives and see if I can breathe new life into the phone. So I can tell you how that goes...
Although:
1. Would the charging light and screen problem be connected? Is this feasible? Or does it suggest something else is likely shot?
2. I believe the FPC connector requires a solder to replace. This could be a bit ambitious on my part to attempt to repair...any ideas on what sort of a solder would be suitable?
Sent from my HTC One V using xda premium
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks. We have a spare DHD with broken glass here wich my sister is using unter her SGS is back from repair. Will swap the motherboard when her phone is back.
Sent from my HTC Vision using xda premium

Replacing the screen

I have broken screen on my htc desire hd, i have replaced the LCD+digitizer before. i know my way around this phone.
Is it easy to replace just glass screen ?
I cant see how i can seprate them. they are glued in this black glue thingy.
Better buy whole LCD + digitizer?
by.......................g0tmi1k
I need to do the same. Also since dropping the phone my Bluetooth turns on and off but doesn't always connect. (highlights or ticks option , but I'm not getting anything on the top bar). I disconnect and re-connect a few times to get it working
While I have the phone apart is there anything I can do to fix it?
Sent from my Samsung Galaxy S III using Android Revolution HD
I just replaced the glass only on mine. Unfortunately, the touch screen isn't responding. Anyone know where I might have gone wrong??? Everything else seems to work fine!
Probably a Ribbon Cable.
keithfrombm said:
I just replaced the glass only on mine. Unfortunately, the touch screen isn't responding. Anyone know where I might have gone wrong??? Everything else seems to work fine!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Try taking it back apart and re-place the ribbon cables back in there seat, they may not be making proper contact. If you replaced the glass without taking it apart you probably un-seated one of the cables. When working on iPhones there is a cable that is only held in place once you close it and put the phone back together.... It's a PITA.
Buy new part and dont replace . Your self its difficult. And its not easy
You can buy a "used" DHD device to replace yours. It'll be cheaper and easier... With a backup on sdcard, your device will be the same !

[Q] Transplant Surgery - T999 mainboard into SCH-I535/SPH-L710 body

I have been looking around, but no place specifically answers this exact question.
Long story short I have a t-mobile Mainboard that I want to save from a phone with a broken screen that I have. From what I understand the other components work as well (camera, speaker and whatever else). I understand that I can purchase an LCD/digitizer with assembly and carefully place the components into there to make sure the phone works but it would cost me around $120 for the parts + whatever time it takes me to replace the components. My second option which I am asking to see if it is indeed possible, would be to take the mainboard from the T-999 and replace it with a SCH-I535/SPH-L710 that I would purchase (most likely with bad ESN - costing me the same amount) but it would mean that I would not have to deal with screen replacement and I have a higher likelihood of having a good quality screen. (I have never been happy with the quality of screen replacements from ebay). It makes no difference if it doesn't work, but someone with the experience of working with different models should be able to answer this question.
Why not buy T999 with bad ESN ?
Perseus71 said:
Why not buy T999 with bad ESN ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I am trying but T999 with bad IMEI's are not only more expensive but a lot of them also have broken screens so im back where I started. I am just stating these two because I can find them cheaply and easy to find as well.
In that case, you could try taking the Display & Digitizer from those phones and put it in your phone. Don't try to transplant your motherboard into that phone unless you have a good reason to do so.
It functions but you have to use a case and...
I did this a about a week ago. Here's how it went.
I bought a SPH-L710 without realizing it did not have a sim card slot. The screen had one slight crack and everything else worked.
After receiving it, I bought a T999 with a cracked screen/ non-working digitizer and everything else worked (the seller heard sounds when it powered on.)
I disassembled both and put the T999 mainboard on the L710 screen digitizer. Most of the screws line up. The two screws that don't line up are:
1. at the bottom near the TOP of the USB port. The hole in the board and the hole in the digitizer are on opposite sides of the USB port. This cannot be remedied, where the screw goes through the board, there's no hole on the digitizer, and you can't put a hole through the mainboard to meet up with the one on the digitizer. You could try but I think there's a circuit on the board there, or not enough room.
The two holes on the SIDES of the USB port will line up only when you squeeze thee mainboard and digitizer together while installing the screws.
2. on the side near the power button, there is a screw that goes there, but on the T999 mainboard near where the screw goes, there's something that looks like a button cell battery about 3mm wide and 1.5-2mm tall. It stuck in a hole made for it in the T999 digitizer, but the L710 digitizer does not have a recess in it to fit this button cell so the T999 mainboard sticks up slightly, enough that if you put the screw in the hole in the side, then the power switch on the mainboard will not stick down far enough, and when you push the power button on the outside of the case, it won't engage the power switch on the mainboard. To remedy this, leave out the screw on the side of the mainboard.
Because the mainboard is slightly bent due to the button cell battery, you need to have a case that compresses the phone together so the power button will engage the power switch properly. I used a "waterproof" chinese knockoff case I got on e$ay for $13. It's not waterproof, but the phone didn't get ruined even thought I tested the waterproof-ness of the case before I put the phone in and it passed, so maybe a genuine otterbox case would have been better. But the case does OK to compress everything enough that the power button and power switch work all the time. With the case on, you can't tell the phone is missing screws internally.
Verdict: everything works properly except the camera doesn't focus properly, it only works in Macro focus, I don't know if I should take the camera module from the L710 and try it or if it won't move because of the stress of the mainboard being slightly bent all time due to the button cell battery. It did focus properly for the few few days I had it.
One other issue: I can't get Windows 7 to recognize it, so I can't use Odin to root it, I've tried all the drivers, I've tried all the modes. I have no idea if this is a Windows issue or if it is somehow caused by the Frankenstein's Monster-ness of the hardware.
So yes, it can be done, with a "rugged" style case and with a few issues. I have no experience with the I535 at all.
I hope this helps,
rollinns
I could not have asked for a better reply. Thanks so much!!!!
Glad I could help
I was looking for this info about 3 weeks ago and didn't really look that hard since i was pretty sure everyone would give me the same replies you got before I replied. But for my entire life I've been asking questions no one else has asked, so I'm used to just having to do stuff to get answers. In this case, it helped you too.
If I had to do it over again, I think I'd try the whole process w/o the L710 parts. Maybe the I535 will work, and I still could drill a recess into the L710 digitizer if I had a mill, but I don't have access to mine now and won't for a while, and I'm not sure I trust the drill press to not crack the digitizer.
Also - NFC is less reliable than it was with my S2, meaning it doesn't work all the time - it's harder to beam contact info to another phone, but QI wireless charging works flawlessly.
My hope is to put some NFC tags in the truck along with a wireless charger so I can listen to internet radio as I drive, i.e. - a tag to turn off wifi, turn on bluetooth, turn on the app that streams music to my JVC car stereo and turn on the "TuneIn" app. and then I can still charge my phone without worrying about wires.

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