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Has anyone connected their Galaxy S III up to a Motorola Atrix Lapdock?
If I remember well, the Motorola lapdock uses a HDMI plug to connect with the Atrix.
GS3 doesn't have one, you should get a MHL/HDMI convertor. Don't know if it'll work as a native HDMI plug will do.
If someone have both, it could be intereting to see if that work
So I'm going to dust this thread off a bit because this is the project I'm looking to work on -
I've ordered an Atrix Lapdock for my Bionic (very simple mod to dock the bionic) but as my personal phone is an S3, I'd like to use the lapdock with it primarily while still having the option to dock the bionic while on the go (I carry both phones). (While I'm at it, I'll probably look to get an hdmi micro extension cable and usb-micro-male to usb-A-male extension and try and use the lapdock as the base station for the Samsung Slate 7 PC i barely use since the interface is so poor)
Here's what I've gathered by reading various threads.
Lapdock:
The Lapdock will work with any HDMI source as seen in other threads (ie connecting to a PS3 via hdmi female micro to hdmi male standard adapter, $4 part from dealextreme). Others have posted how they can use the lapdock as a self powered hdmi external monitor with their laptop (very cool usage btw considering it's size)
Droid Bionic:
easily docks to the Atrix version of the lapdock by simply rotating the hdmi/micro usb connectors 180degrees in their sockets since they're piped in with short cables.
Galaxy SIII / S3 (mine is the T999):
here's where it gets tricky.
As I've gathered about the 11pin micro usb port (on the S3 and shared by the Note 2):
the original 5 pin MHL standard was ditched in favor of the 11pin MHL type connection. this in theory would allow the use of hdmi output with simultaneous usb otg and charging capabilities.
reviewing this thread here: (showthread.php?t=1953061&page=2) one can see that an OTG cable was modded with a simple resistor to allow for charging - member triff (the OP) was able to get this going and noted the log he got when the cable was plugged in reported 'hdmi fail' which leans to failing to initiate an hdmi connection... later in the thread member MRBR7 alludes to having an hdd running to view while charging on the OTG cable - his post is a bit vague as to whether he did the mod on an OTG cable or an HDMI cable.... i'll have to follow up.
finally, the posts in this thread (first 12 pages are a quick read showthread.php?t=1741583&page=12) provide resistor values and some close ups of the boards for the 11 to 5 pin adapter as well as what I thought was a list of pins for the 5 pin MHL.
I'm really trying to be purposefully clear in this thread as to my findings because it seems there are too many vague threads out there regarding the functionality; simply missing a letter or punctuation in a thread can turn a sure thing into a vague post...
another avenue is the official samsung galaxy note 2 "smart dock" which has 3 usb ports, in additon to an hdmi output and charging input - since this is sold out in the US (and due to PAL vs NTSC Standard I am hesitant to order from germany) it'll be a while before I can personally buy and test one (unless i can find one locally somehow). this seems like the best bet for a dock which can be hacked or adapted to interface the s3 with the lapdock.
my ideal final outcome of this thread would be to have a small cable or interface box which i can plug into the s3 to enable hdmi output + usb otg + charging. that trifecta would connect via a single micro-usb to the device (11 pin) and have an output of a female usb (A or micro, either can be adapted) and either a male or female standard hdmi (again, both of which can be adapted). this cable could enable the phone to be used as an impromptu desktop, carputer, lapdock brain etc...
Lapdock software required...
Sent from my SGH-T999 using xda premium
deedscreen said:
Lapdock software required...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What do you mean by that?
The Atrix Lapdock is internally nothing but an 1366x768 HDMI LCD monitor with (rather poor) speakers and an USB-Hub on which a keyboard/touchpad and two free USB-ports are connected to. The monitor and the USB-hub have to be simply attached to any device which supports HDMI-output and USB-OTG via (slightly uncommon) HDMI- and USB-OTG-plugs.
There is no software running on the Lapdock (it is actually completely dumb) and there is no need for any specific SW on the connected device (might be nice to have something like webtop running but it is not necessary).
The S3 works flawlessly with the keyboard/touchpad/USB-hub using a USB-OTG-Adapter and with the HDMI-monitor via an MHL/HDMI adapter cable. The tricky part is only to get both simultaneously and possibly even charge the S3 from the Lapdock. For that purpose I use as long as there is no combined MHL-HDMI/USB-OTG-adapter/dock available (as described in the thread and page already indicated above: showthread.php?t=1741583&page=12 ) the allshare cast dongle and a cheap OTG adapter. You can use office apps, watch videos, play games etc. without any problem. You can check out
ecx . images-amazon . com/images/I/712%2BAbT1u3L.png
(no links for me yet)
to see how that looks like...
a32quaeler said:
What do you mean by that?
The Atrix Lapdock is internally nothing but an 1366x768 HDMI LCD monitor with (rather poor) speakers and an USB-Hub on which a keyboard/touchpad and two free USB-ports are connected to. The monitor and the USB-hub have to be simply attached to any device which supports HDMI-output and USB-OTG via (slightly uncommon) HDMI- and USB-OTG-plugs.
There is no software running on the Lapdock (it is actually completely dumb) and there is no need for any specific SW on the connected device (might be nice to have something like webtop running but it is not necessary).
The S3 works flawlessly with the keyboard/touchpad/USB-hub using a USB-OTG-Adapter and with the HDMI-monitor via an MHL/HDMI adapter cable. The tricky part is only to get both simultaneously and possibly even charge the S3 from the Lapdock. For that purpose I use as long as there is no combined MHL-HDMI/USB-OTG-adapter/dock available (as described in the thread and page already indicated above: showthread.php?t=1741583&page=12 ) the allshare cast dongle and a cheap OTG adapter. You can use office apps, watch videos, play games etc. without any problem. You can check out
ecx . images-amazon . com/images/I/712%2BAbT1u3L.png
(no links for me yet)
to see how that looks like...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Interesting..especially for the 89$ price tag. Long as one can deal with S3 not charging its a simple setup no ?
xManMythLegend said:
Interesting..especially for the 89$ price tag. Long as one can deal with S3 not charging its a simple setup no ?
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Click to collapse
Well, I got the Lapdock for less than 70 Euros and I think that is really great value since it is very well build and versatile... the allshare cast dongle is a bit overpriced (currently it is about 55Euros here) for an adapter-replacement but if you need it for different use cases (I mainly have it for a small LED-beamer) it might be worth it.
You can charge the S3 from one of the USB-ports of the Lapdock using a micro-USB cable (as long as the dongle or any other device is connected to the Lapdocks HDMI-plug - that is what signals the Lapdock to power up), but you can not simultaneously use the MHL/USB-OTG then. So it is nice for watching movies from your S3 on the Lapdock-screen (btw. the sound works fine as well) while re-charging the S3 but for "office" work with kb/touchpad you have to replug the OTG-cable. Actually I'm quite impressed with the relatively low power consumption of the allshare cast connection - so that is not a real problem IMHO. There might be people out there to solder the right resistors into OTG-adapter cables to allow both...
One disadvantage is obviously that you have this "bulky" (it is actually lightweight but still bigger than a simple adapter) dongle on the Lapdock. The big advantage over a dock is that you can more or less freely move around the S3 while using this combination.
deedscreen said:
Lapdock software required...
Sent from my SGH-T999 using xda premium because i'm a moron and don't know what i'm talking about
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
you obviously don't know anything about the lapdock, so please, hang around, do some searching and learn about what it is before posting vague comments that ruin the integrity of a factual thread.
xManMythLegend said:
Interesting..especially for the 89$ price tag. Long as one can deal with S3 not charging its a simple setup no ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
google 'bens outlet' (a 1saleaday company) and you can pick one up for as little as $50usd! assuming it actually ships out, but worth it for a spare monitor project at the very least... - and yes, not a hard setup at all - the first use in my mind would be just to have a full size screen on the go, however to have a cable capable of mhl/hdmi + usb otg + charging would turn the dock into a powerhouse android laptop using 4g internet etc... (it'll give the chromebook a run for it's money)
a32quaeler said:
the allshare cast dongle is a bit overpriced (currently it is about 55Euros here) for an adapter-replacement but if you need it for different use cases (I mainly have it for a small LED-beamer) it might be worth it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
what's this LED beamer? (i'm just intrigued)
a32quaeler said:
You can charge the S3 from one of the USB-ports of the Lapdock using a micro-USB cable (as long as the dongle or any other device is connected to the Lapdocks HDMI-plug - that is what signals the Lapdock to power up), but you can not simultaneously use the MHL/USB-OTG then. So it is nice for watching movies from your S3 on the Lapdock-screen (btw. the sound works fine as well) while re-charging the S3 but for "office" work with kb/touchpad you have to replug the OTG-cable. Actually I'm quite impressed with the relatively low power consumption of the allshare cast connection - so that is not a real problem IMHO. There might be people out there to solder the right resistors into OTG-adapter cables to allow both...
One disadvantage is obviously that you have this "bulky" (it is actually lightweight but still bigger than a simple adapter) dongle on the Lapdock. The big advantage over a dock is that you can more or less freely move around the S3 while using this combination.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
all very cool - I'm thinking of ordering the allshare dongle just to try this out until the smartdock gets back in stock to hack it apart .. I'll probably order an 11pin mhl in the meantime too. I have a 5pin mhl, not sure what I can do with it without the adapter (i'll probably bundle it with my galaxy nexus and sell it all)
@a32: on a side note, i broke down and bought a Note 2 yesterday haha, so I'll probably be continuing this project with the Note2, (tmo just happened to have some in stock haha) I'm putting my week old S3 up for sale soon, but this project is still on my radar!
teshgnex said:
you obviously don't know anything about the lapdock, so please, hang around, do some searching and learn about what it is before posting vague comments that...
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Click to collapse
The S3 would need the lapdock .apk for certain functionality... calm down, I've owned enough Motorola Android devices to know what I'm saying...
Thats all... Ben's Outlet would be good plus All4Cellular sells it with the extenders...
Its out of stock now but you can get the extenders separately at a hefty price:
www.all4cellular.com/motorola-atrix-4g-laptop-dock-hdmi-upgrade-kit.html
The hefty priced cables are below, but it is worth the cost:
www.all4cellular.com/motorola-atrix-4g-upgrade-kit.html
deedscreen said:
The S3 would need the lapdock .apk for certain functionality... calm down, I've owned enough Motorola Android devices to know what I'm saying...
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Click to collapse
Sorry to snap, but if you've been on enough forums, you begin to notice that comments like yours are just add to confusion when unsubstantiated.
Any phone without a 'web top' mode or apk would obviously not work similar to the webtop mode that Motorola intended, however it'll still work, perfectly in fact, because this connection project is akin to hooking up your phone to a tv or monitor and using a usb mouse and keyboard to control it, albeit it's portable, like the padphone.
If you have any ideas as to how one could hookup both mhl/hdmi and usb/otg with charging I'm all ears (the real breakthrough would easily be seeing a US version T999 or similar running with the Smart Dock for the Note 2
Another thought to throw out there is whether this finished product could look similar to the padphone concept: a pocket for the phone to slip into, docking connector inside, basically self contained
As for those extension cables posted, places like monoprice and dealextreme have much better prices and selection, granted I'm just going those links on my phone - i don't understand how those are considered 'adapters' when all they do is extend the port
Sent from my SGH-T889 using xda app-developers app
Silly question but why would you need software when your using it as a monitor, keyboard, mouse, usb hub & charging?
djashjones said:
Silly question but why would you need software when your using it as a monitor, keyboard, mouse, usb hub & charging?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You don't.
... that's what we posted already. The webtop SW on some Motorola devices starts a specific desktop and window-manager on your phone when connecting to the lapdock. It may facilitate the use of the apps on the phone via the Lapdock (resolution/size/... of apps in windows etc.) but you do not need it to work with the S3 on the Lapdock.
awesome! im very tempted to get one but in the UK they are still expensive
teshgnex said:
what's this LED beamer? (i'm just intrigued)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
A bit off-topic: It is an ACER C20 I own for nearly 2 years now. Like this one:
ecx . images-amazon . com/images/I/41aXbNerVoL._SL500_.jpg
It is out of stock anyway, but I could "partly" recommend it:
It has the size of a phone, a built-in battery and - most important - lots of inputs (mini HDMI (HDCP), D-Sub (24-pin Universal), Composite Video/Audio (2.5mm 4-pin mini jack), micro USB (Typ AB), micro SD Card (SDHC)) + Audio out & speaker. It plays media from internal storage/SD card but that internal media-player is crap. It is however extremely mobile and together with movie players on modern phones like the S3+cast-dongle - or any tablet with HDMI-out or a device with Composite A/V out (e.g. old Nokias) - a nice device e.g. to entertain kids on travel or showing pictures while visiting the grandparents or alike. On the other hand, it is not really bright at all (actually you have to be in a very, very dark room to use larger screen areas) and the battery lasts often only 1/2 hour (but you can charge it with 5V from USBs or use it while on the mains adapter).
It works really nice with the S3 + allshare cast dongle (that's what I bought the dongle for in the first place), has a descent image quality (848x480 pixel) and accepts up to 1080i HD over HDMI as input signal for downscaling but for the dongle the input is of course limited 720p. It does NOT work with the S3 using the cheap (chinese) USB-MHL/HDMI-adapter with the long red cables (somewhere discussed here as well) since that one provides 1080p30Hz (at least to my TV - on which it works) and the projector obviously can't sync to that.
Back to the topic: that cheap HDMI-adapter for S3 works not very well with the Atrix Lapdock; you get an image but it is vertically squeezed. Again: the Lapdock and the S3 + cast dongle go together extremely well.
That led projector sounds pretty cool, I've waffle'd on buying one various times but can't say I've had a particular need other than for the fun of it hah
a32quaeler said:
Back to the topic: that cheap HDMI-adapter for S3 works not very well with the Atrix Lapdock; you get an image but it is vertically squeezed. Again: the Lapdock and the S3 + cast dongle go together extremely well.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So I'm guessing you've tested this, but with the hdmi cable and the screen rotation turned on, the device still shows up in portrait? Unless I'm reading that wrong and you mean it's width wise video but looks like a 4:3 video on a 16:9 widescreen?
I wonder if that behavior is present with the official adapter...
So to return to the method of the allshare dongle, does it look like image 1 as i posted?
I recall you mentioned the dongle's hdmi signal is what triggers the docks micro usb port for kb/mouse control and charging, so for clarity i drew the wiring method up.
The next two wiring diagrams are what I'd expect to do as i finalize what the connection should/could look like...
I'm always in for feedback on streamlining the connections - the simple yet two part method will be just having the official smart dock, assuming it works with the s3, powered with one usb port, hdmi to hdmi mini and usb micro to the usb port, though maybe modify the output to delete charging power from the kb/m micro usb port...
Sent from my SGH-T889 using xda app-developers app
teshgnex said:
I recall you mentioned the dongle's hdmi signal is what triggers the docks micro usb port for kb/mouse control and charging, so for clarity i drew the wiring method up.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry, don't have much time and will have a look at your drawings later... The presence(!) of a device connected to the HDMI is detected by checking for a "Ground"-connection of one of the HDMI-pins (from googling I remember it to be HDMI-DDC/CEC) - that's what powers up the Lapdock (and activates the USB-Ports). No need for an already powered device on that HDMI port. The problem is however that there are many HDMI adapters/extension cables out there which do not pass that specific wire/connection and then the Lapdock will not react when using those. There is however no need to buy these overexpensive Motorola cable sets (those prices are unbelievable!)... my adapters & cables cost in total about 9 Euros.
+5V on the OTG-USB cable from the peripheral device (=Lapdock) to the host is not "liked" by most hosts (the S3 did not really react on it but it is probably not a good idea anyhow) so I cut the 5V red wire of the micro-USB(female)-to-micro-USB(male)-cable. On the latter you need something to signal the S3 the OTG mode (pin 4 grounded to 5). I do that quite stupidly using additional USB->OTG-adapters but you would have to take care of that in your MHL/OTC combi adapter with resistors etc. anyhow.
The "chinese" Adapter is vertically squeezed. The S3 goes into the correct HDMI-out mode including the (stock) homescreen to be usable in landscape mode - that is not a problem. Probably the 1080p30Hz mode is not well understood by the Lapdock and/or the adapter does not correctly "negotiate" the right resolution-/display ratio with the display or the quality of the sync signal from the adapter is really bad. That chinese adapter is not too bad for Full-HD TV sets but unusable for anything else. I did not try the official one. The Lapdock works however well with the dongle.
This info is much appreciated. I took the dive and ordered a lapdock from bensoutlet.com for $50 to play with. The regular one is $60 - but the keyboard that adds Hebrew letters was $10 cheaper. I figure the lettering doesn't hurt anything so I'd rather save the $10.
If anybody figures out how to simplify the connections, or perhaps someday enable MHL out + USB host with this thing - please post back.
Right now - I spent an additional $6 on dealextreme.com to get a microHDMI (female) to HDMI male adapter, and a micro usb female to male adapter so I can try to use the keyboard.
The result is going to be pretty cluttered, but I figure $50 is cheap for a portable, self powered HDMI monitor that could also power stuff from it's ports.
teshgnex said:
The next two wiring diagrams are what I'd expect to do as i finalize what the connection should/could look like...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Your drawing No 1 is what I use (see below). No 2 is how it should be indeed (but where is the "modded cable" coming from?). While No 3 will not help you since only the presence of a shortened HDMI-CEC pin (+ opening the display a bit) will power ALL the USB-ports including U1+U2 (that activity mode of the Lapdock is indicated by a small white LED next to the touchpad) - so there is no "pre-power" available. But (again) anything that provides that ground contact on the HDMI-plug will do the trick... I actually have one 90degree HDMI-adapter (don't know how to call it in English), which does exactly that and shortens those pin(s) and simulates to the Lapdock the presence of a device (I assume that is NOT on purpose but it works with a second, identical adapter as well). Don't take me wrong you do not need that one if you conect a device (any) directly to the microHDMI-to-HDMI adapter but it is needed when you use HDMI extension cables (etc.) that do not pass all wires to the HDMI device.
I attached some pics how I wire that thing. Pic 1: the micro HDMI plug on the Lapdock is turned by me by 180deg just to make a bit more room for the microHDMI(fem)toHDMI(male)-adapter. You may directly attach the dongle to it (it is relatively stable and easy to carry around - pic 2). That's what one could call "entertainment mode" since you may want to watch videos etc. this way. But than you have not enough space for the microUSB-cable for kb/mouse. That is what I use the 90deg-adapter for. This adapter alone signals already the Lapdock to power up (no other HDMI-cable or adapter I own does this). Back to pic 1: The microUSB(fem)-to-microUSB(male)-cable has the red 5V wire cut. The microUSB-to-USB + USB-microUSB-OTG(!) adapter is there only to signal the OTG-host mode for the S3. The stuff on the right are things you may use on the free USB-port.
That strange device with the mobile speaker attached to its headphone jack has to be explained: it is a (5 Euro) "USB sound card". That is a bit odd... the Lapdock has stereo speakers which are working well (but not great) and the audio-output via HDMI(cast) to the Lapdock works perfectly (sound is ok and in sync when watching videos & you can control volume etc. from the S3 or the Lapdock keyboard) but the allshare cast SW on the S3 does not allow you to plug in a headphone or connect a bluetooth audio-device to the S3 for output of the video(!)-sound. You can use headphones for mp3-player music while using an HDMI display etc. but when you switch on a video you have to remove headphones otherwise the allshare connection stops. There might be two reasons 1: HDCP, 2: there is a small lag in video display from the wireless transfer protocol and the audio stream is equally lagged on purpose to be well in sync with the video stream. You may want to bypass that artificial restriction because the Lapdock has NO headphone jack ... and you can by using such a "soundcard" which is fully supported by the S3 but the sound is then indeed a bit "in advance" of the video stream.
Less exotic devices you can attach are external disks/pen drives or even game controllers (all of them work)... Pic 3 shows you how I wire it for "productivity mode"
P0ll0L0c0 said:
This info is much appreciated. I took the dive and ordered a lapdock from bensoutlet.com for $50 to play with.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you. 50$ ! When they are as cheap go and get some (or better get many)! The Lapdock is really, really useful and works with many devices.
I originally bought it for the Raspberry Pi but I use it as well with an Archos A80G9 android tablet (not so often since the tablet is big enough anyhow) which has seperated (mini)HDMI and USB-OTG connectors (as it should have been done for all mobile devices including the S3) and used it for my "old" Nokia N8 (miniHDMI as well). In that case USB-OTG does not work since the N8 does not support USB hubs but you can chrge it and watch movies on the Lapdock display with it (in the train ...). The RasPi is powered via the same cable that is used for kb/mouse. In that cable I did obviously not cut the 5V wire. The power the Lapdock provides this way is sufficient to operate the RasPi (+ wifi dongle) ... about 1A is needed for that. So it should be possible to use that power via that OTG microUSB port for the S3 as well ...
What abot the EDD-S20E dock won´t that work with the lapdock ???
Problem is the dock is useless for my next device in 2 - 3 Years....
The allshare cast dongle might stay usefull even with the next gen of android phones....
Hi folks,
As I understand it, the Glide supports both HDMI out and USB On the Go. What I'd like to do is set up my phone to be a basic laptop.
The first part of my plan is to get the right cables. Does anyone know of a combo cable that provides both HDMI female and USB A female to the phone so I can hook one end up to a powered hub with an ethernet dongle and keyboard/mouse thing, and at the same time hook up an external display? Also, if I do this, I assume the hub will need to provide power in some way back to the phone. Is that correct?
Or is this going to be so expensive I should just use a cheap computer?
Thanks.
Jonathan
fighttheangrybunny said:
As I understand it, the Glide supports both HDMI out and USB On the Go. What I'd like to do is set up my phone to be a basic laptop.
The first part of my plan is to get the right cables. Does anyone know of a combo cable that provides both HDMI female and USB A female to the phone so I can hook one end up to a powered hub with an ethernet dongle and keyboard/mouse thing, and at the same time hook up an external display? Also, if I do this, I assume the hub will need to provide power in some way back to the phone. Is that correct?
Or is this going to be so expensive I should just use a cheap computer?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1633902&highlight=hdmi ?
Assuming a computer on site, you could always vnc.
From past experience with other PDA's, you will -quickly- grow tired of this and end up purchasing a laptop anyways.
Not that you'd want to be internet'ting, much, on a TV, either. For anything short of a quick search, weather, TV guide, you're going to want to cross the room to your laptop, IMO.
Which is probably what you'd have your HDMI connected up to, anyways. Although using the Glide as a remote in that situation is probably attractive. Or as an XBMC control sort of thing, but, again, likely the content would come off the computer rather than the glide, the glide just remotely controlling it.
You can easily test how you find this, either by using a bluetooth keyboard and playing (never mind the external screen for the moment), or by vnc'ing to it from a computer (pretend it's a bluetooth keyboard and it's an external monitor, for the moment).
Technically possible, not practically feasible.
Chromebook?
Just get cheap laptop. It will serve you better and will be much easier to use
Sent from my SGH-I927 using xda app-developers app
ubuntu
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HDMI out is supported by the SoC, but to the best of our knowledge those pins aren't actually connected to anything in our phones. That said, there's a protocol for outputting to an HDMI device via a USB dongle that doesn't require any hardware infrastructure beyond USB OtG, which we have.
In theory, you could get a powered USB hub (it MUST be powered, no way in hell the phone can put out enough current to support all this), plug a keyboard and mouse into it along with one of those USB-to-HDMI dongles, then hook the phone up to it as a host using an OtG cable. At that point it's just a matter of ROM/kernel support of all the peripheral hardware. (Ask dman? Nah, I'm sure he's WAY too busy.)
If you are just using it for media as like an htpc, I'd reccomend skipping all the usbotg stuff and just connecting a net book or some other cheap PC to your display.
My current setup: old netbook with 1tb external hooked into TV, controlled by the glide (unified remote app) and the external drive is also network shared so my glide (and tablet) can read from it.
Its served me well for playing all of my local video files as well as flash video and light browsing. Depends what you're using it for though, I suppose.
The only time I've ever really used HDMI out with android is to play n64 emulators (or other games that support a bt controller) or if my girlfriend is watching desperate housewives or something on the main setup. It works well enough for that, but not enough that I would make a habit of it.
***EDIT***
USB Host DOES work with Flash Drives. For information see post 3: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?p=37201971#post37201971
This is now my main focus. So I figure why not everyone post up what devices they got to work with the Kindle Fire 2 and/or what methods it took for you to do so.
3x Different Flash Drives: Not Working However one of their LED's Illuminate
USB Keyboard: Not Working
Logitech M570 Wireless Trackball: Working
I also tried a non powered hub, it didn't work. The Green LED Illuminated but nothing more. When connected to my Galaxy S 3 I can have multiple devices attached at a time. I tore the Hub down and found that it has a blank slot for power. I wired soldered in a 0.75a Samsung Wired Charger to it. It Illuminated the LED, As well as it illuminated the Power LED in Orange on the Kindle but no devices worked on the Hub. I tested the power output of the USB Ports and it was a little more than 5v per port.
Device: Kindle Fire 2
Rooted and TWRP'ed with the Nightly of CM10.1 1-20-2013
Will keep trying. As stated in another thread, that its simply power. After testing these things out, I don't think its power related. Either the kindle just doesn't have the "Drivers" if thats what you'd call it, or it simply can not run anything but a mouse. I hope that is not the case. It will ruin all appeal in my eyes.
If you're rooted, have you tried installing StickMount?
Might work for the flash drives.
I tried, Stickmount tries. You can tell its trying to work something out. So more tests with a cut up usb cable on the OTG cable does in fact show there is a voltage issue. My Galaxy puts out perfect 5v. The Kindle puts out around 2.5v. I tried making another OTG cable but failed. I guess its just not getting connection to the extra pin. So I have a USB Extension I'm gonna split open and power it. So I don't have to hack up my only working OTG.
The main issue I'm having with this is, my current power unit is a measly 0.75a. And It charges the device. So I figure there will still be a voltage issue due to the device charging. So I could cut the red wire going to the device for now. But not sure if the device will realize this somehow and just not work. Thoughts? I've seen this done before when someone made themselves a powered OTG Hub system out of a couple USB Cables.
I'll continue till I'm too tired to think hehe.
***Edit***
Ok couple hours later.... lol I had a USB Extension, I cleanly just slit it down the m iddle and soldered in the two power wires from a samsung micro usb charger. The Power is 5v at 0.75a. So its not much. I know it wouldn't charge my nexus nor Galaxy Tab, but it charges the Kindle, or at least the kindle says it is. I doubt it really is. Anyway I soldered it in, cleaned up the surgery started some testing on my phone first. I connected a Micro USB cable to one end and then the other to my phone, and then the Kindle. It charges, or again says it is (*kindle might require more amperage). So Next I connect the OTG Cable to the other end and connect it to my phone, It charges through the OTG Cable. Next the Kindle, it does not charge the kindle. Possible amperage requirements, I don't know yet.
So onto the test without StickMount, Failure. It acts the same.
Test with StickMount, Well I'll let this screen shot explain most of it:
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
It worked! StickMount notification pops up and I found the flash drive in the current location. Inside the SD Card under a folder called /usbstorage/sda1/. Not exactly my first choice, not sure if this can be changed to go into mnt or somewhere else. The Device itself doesn't notice the flash drive. So if you go into System/Storage, it does not show the flash drive. But it is fully functional. I accessed some files without any issues.
So my final consensus: The Kindle Fire 2 currently has OTG/USB Host Capabilities. From the USB Host Diagnostics I ran, its fully functional. However the main issue is Power. The second issue is the device on the most current (1/20/2013 CM10.1 Nightly) rom doesn't have the proper... I don't know the right wording for it, but lets say drivers since I'm a pc guy. I'm sure with more development, it can control any device with the only issue being power related. This takes away from the meaning of "On The Go". Having some sort of 5v power source connected to your device while your trying to use a hard drive or something else is going to be a pain in the ass for most people. For me it really does not matter since the device is going to be setup in my car for media sourcing as well as game play. So a 32gb flash drive and a Xbox 360 controller is all I will be using.
I will be doing more testing with multiple devices but it is 4am right now. One more thing, Bluetooth abilities are possible with a cheap dongle. However for some reason the Kindle recognizes it as a physical keyboard. I have tested this on other devices in the past so I believe it is possible with some more development. But that's far in the future and still of course require additional power.
Goodnight guys.
I have 3 different thumb drives.
Sony 4GB = does not work
SanDisk cruzer slide 16GB = does not work
SanDisk cruzer 8GB = Works
The regular cruzer is probably 5+ years old. I have access to others and will update my post when I get them.
I'm on PowerPoint45 cm 10.1 using chainfires stickmount.
Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk HD
Nice. The regular flash prob requires less power. I noticed one of mine which was larger almost worked. But would shut off prob to not enough power. But a newer one wouldn't light up at all.
Plans for today: To re build that USB Hub I was messing with last night. I desoldered the USB cable off of it to solder in a Micro USB, But I don't remember if it worked. I then tried to turn it into an OTG direct 4port hub but nothing happened. So I'm sure I screwed something up. But the initial results should be a powered, 4port Micro USB OTG Hub. I just hope I have enough juice to make it work for not only charging the Kindle but powering the devices on the hub. I have a Galaxy Tab Official 2.0a car charger I can try out. I want to be able to have at the least, a 32gb Flash Drive and a 360 Gaming Controller.
Well I got some done today. I found an old phone charger that was 1a. I finally just used my OTG Cable and soldered it in place of the std usb connector on a cheap USB Hub. I'm sure everyone has the same hub I'm using, I have two, one says Microsoft on it, the other says AMD but they are super cheap and are given out everywhere you go:
Its a non powered USB hub, however when opened up there is a bare spot for a power connector. Middle pin is 5v + and the two around it are common Ground -.
Don't be strayed by my crap solder work. I'm using a cheap harbor freight soldering iron and the new charger has very thick wire so it didn't really fit in the small holes. The ground is just directly connected to everything else thats ground related so I grounded it there. That way the two wires aren't soo close together.
I have now successfully tested 3 flash drives, NTFS, Fat32 and some strange Fat32 drive plus my Trackball. As well as this I have successfully charged my Galaxy SIII off of the hub. I wouldn't exactly recommend this unless your running like a legit 2a charger. I only did it to test out power requirements. I think either my cable is damaged too or I'm at the limit of power the small 1a can handle because every once in a while the hub shuts off. I think its just cable related.
Here is everything connected as you can see.
However the tablet it self is not charging. At least the icon on the notification bar doesn't say so. I have tested the voltage here and its 5v. But IDK? Maybe the Kindle wont allow it? BUT, with all my testing, the battery has stayed at 88%. I'm gonna try to kill it some more. Maybe with some transferring files between drives.
lol As I'm typing this, I sit down for a second with the tablet on the carpet floor and just stare at it. I've noticed that some reason the led turns off and on at random times. But I've never seen it say its charging. Well the screen just dimmed but didn't shut off so I get up to check real fast and when I turn it on, it says 88% - Charging! But then instantly goes back to 88% - Not Charging when the screen lights up. And there it goes again (Please bare with me as I'm doing this all this very second.) Looks like it just needs some more amperage. 1a is not enough to power everything and charge the device.
I was worried that the kindle wasn't going to support Charging OTG. Well I happen to have a spare 2a Galaxy Tablet charger and no Galaxy Tab.... I'll try it out and get back to you guys!
nFiniti said:
Well I got some done today. I found an old phone charger that was 1a. I finally just used my OTG Cable and soldered it in place of the std usb connector on a cheap USB Hub. I'm sure everyone has the same hub I'm using, I have two, one says Microsoft on it, the other says AMD but they are super cheap and are given out everywhere you go:
Its a non powered USB hub, however when opened up there is a bare spot for a power connector. Middle pin is 5v + and the two around it are common Ground -.
Don't be strayed by my crap solder work. I'm using a cheap harbor freight soldering iron and the new charger has very thick wire so it didn't really fit in the small holes. The ground is just directly connected to everything else thats ground related so I grounded it there. That way the two wires aren't soo close together.
I have now successfully tested 3 flash drives, NTFS, Fat32 and some strange Fat32 drive plus my Trackball. As well as this I have successfully charged my Galaxy SIII off of the hub. I wouldn't exactly recommend this unless your running like a legit 2a charger. I only did it to test out power requirements. I think either my cable is damaged too or I'm at the limit of power the small 1a can handle because every once in a while the hub shuts off. I think its just cable related.
Here is everything connected as you can see.
*PIC REMOVED BY ME BECAUSE CMON, IT'S A QUOTE, YOU'VE SEEN THE PIC ALREADY!*
However the tablet it self is not charging. At least the icon on the notification bar doesn't say so. I have tested the voltage here and its 5v. But IDK? Maybe the Kindle wont allow it? BUT, with all my testing, the battery has stayed at 88%. I'm gonna try to kill it some more. Maybe with some transferring files between drives.
lol As I'm typing this, I sit down for a second with the tablet on the carpet floor and just stare at it. I've noticed that some reason the led turns off and on at random times. But I've never seen it say its charging. Well the screen just dimmed but didn't shut off so I get up to check real fast and when I turn it on, it says 88% - Charging! But then instantly goes back to 88% - Not Charging when the screen lights up. And there it goes again (Please bare with me as I'm doing this all this very second.) Looks like it just needs some more amperage. 1a is not enough to power everything and charge the device.
I was worried that the kindle wasn't going to support Charging OTG. Well I happen to have a spare 2a Galaxy Tablet charger and no Galaxy Tab.... I'll try it out and get back to you guys!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This looks good! If you want, once you are done with the testing, I can try and write up a guide with your words on how to do it then let you post that. I did the same for some of the stickied threads. It looks like you're almost done and I think this would be a really good info thread once compiled nicely. Stuff like how to do OTG, what works, what needs a powered HUB, stuff like that. I personally will probably never use OTG, but I see the value and I like what it can be used for.
Best of luck!
That's nice. lol I understand I talk a lot, but when it comes to things I must have, like more than 5gb of memory on a device that should have a few TB . It would be nice for others to try out things to see what works and what doesn't. Because to have a powered USB Device is kinda not the point of OTG "On The Go". But like someone figured out that one of his older Flash drives worked, so hopefully others chime in too.
If you wanna do that, you have my approval. Just make sure it suits what I did, "Dedicated OTG". or "Guaranteed OTG". Since that's what I was mainly working towards. This discussion thread is mainly to locate what works and what doesn't and the main OTG Capabilities of the Kindle Fire2. I don't plan on changing much else to what I have already done except adding a larger psu to the hub so it charges the device while powering the hub and its devices for my own personal gain. I want to keep this open so people can throw up what they have learned as well so the information is out there for others. I personally hate going into a device and not knowing.
nFiniti said:
That's nice. lol I understand I talk a lot, but when it comes to things I must have, like more than 5gb of memory on a device that should have a few TB . It would be nice for others to try out things to see what works and what doesn't. Because to have a powered USB Device is kinda not the point of OTG "On The Go". But like someone figured out that one of his older Flash drives worked, so hopefully others chime in too.
If you wanna do that, you have my approval. Just make sure it suits what I did, "Dedicated OTG". or "Guaranteed OTG". Since that's what I was mainly working towards. This discussion thread is mainly to locate what works and what doesn't and the main OTG Capabilities of the Kindle Fire2. I don't plan on changing much else to what I have already done except adding a larger psu to the hub so it charges the device while powering the hub and its devices for my own personal gain. I want to keep this open so people can throw up what they have learned as well so the information is out there for others. I personally hate going into a device and not knowing.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I should get an OTG cable. I have a small flashdrive, not sure about the name or brand since the size made it temporarily misplaced. It's the same size as the wireless receivers though for most modern mice and keyboard so it's SUPER small, which I actually wouldn't mind tucking the cable into my case, plus it's 32GB. The issue on PC, is the transfer rate is a little low, but that may be because it uses so little power, which I'm hoping.
Any good places to get an OTG cable?
Ebay, Amazon (great place for cables)
https://www.google.com/search?q=OTG...29,d.aWc&fp=4a19662fa4882be9&biw=1920&bih=965
Just a quick search. You can also make one, if space is an issue. You just need a MicroUSB and a female USB. Pin 5 gets soldered to pin 4 on the MicroUSB and bam! Making one would help with space issues since you can tuck the wires easier. If you are good at soldering.
nFiniti said:
Ebay, Amazon (great place for cables)
https://www.google.com/search?q=OTG...29,d.aWc&fp=4a19662fa4882be9&biw=1920&bih=965
Just a quick search. You can also make one, if space is an issue. You just need a MicroUSB and a female USB. Pin 5 gets soldered to pin 4 on the MicroUSB and bam! Making one would help with space issues since you can tuck the wires easier. If you are good at soldering.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Is an OTG cable special or just F-USB and M-MicoUSB?
If it's just those, then I can go poke around Frys and Radioshack for one.
I don't know anything about soldering, how much is a good kit to get started? I think a friend of mine has one and knows how to use it, so I can ask him, but I realize it's something I should learn especially with the hardware mods I would love to do. If I can't find a cable in stores, or if it's special (I ask that because most employees at frys and whatnot aren't very helpful or knowledgable, so I don't want them giving me something that won't work, but if it's just those ends I'm looking for, I can do that) then I may just look into soldering my own and learning that. I see they're around $50 online but I don't want to screw myself over there.
You can chose a decent soldering iron anywhere from 15 to like 80 bucks. I recently saw some nice ones with adjustable power levels for good price. And tons of different tips. My brother Skorpn has the more expensive one that heats up fast and has adjustable power settings to fit any projects needs. Hr has a nice soldering station I wish I could use more. I however just have a cheap harbor freight iron with a fine tip from radio shack and I use the thinnest silver solder avail there as well. Flux is also a must.
Anyway. Otg mode is accomplished on the micro USB side. They have 5 pins instead of 4. The 5th is used for doing all sorts of things with the right add one tho. If you solder in a small wire to it and jump it to pin 4 which is ground, it turns on otg. Not really hard to do. You can make one decently. Just need a good micro USB cable and a female normal USB cable. Solder them together and then do the otg modifications.
Other than doing it yourself, they are very cheap. But if you have the spare cables, it doesn't hurt to play around.
Sent from my Amazon Kindle Fire2 using xda app-developers app
I've got my USB mouse to work using otg cable, is there any chance using it could damage my kindle, this Mount app I use says it can damage the kindle because of the power output
Sent from my Amazon Kindle Fire2
I don't know what ap your talking about. But no. The Kindle Fire 2 only puts out half the voltage when in OTG Mode. So only certain things will work without additional power. Your mouse will work just fine, especially if its a wireless mouse, since the wireless device doesn't require hardly any power. Some other devices will work too. You don't need a mount app for using devices, only for Flash Drives. And so far out of every one I've used the best one is Chainfire's StickMount. Chainfire is the creator of Superuser.
Anyways, I'm not using a 2a charger to power my USB OTG Hub, and it powers all 4 devices and charges the device with ease. Cannot wait to have this thing installed.
OTG testing
After reading this thread I thought I would have a go and do some testing myself. so I found a USB y cable teamed that with a female to female USB adaptor so it would extend my OTG cable but allow me to pipe in some power (5v off a arduino) off the y cable. I have got my mouse working and USB flash drive but I cant get my Xbox 360 wired controller to work
facelessloser said:
After reading this thread I thought I would have a go and do some testing myself. so I found a USB y cable teamed that with a female to female USB adaptor so it would extend my OTG cable but allow me to pipe in some power (5v off a arduino) off the y cable. I have got my mouse working and USB flash drive but I cant get my Xbox 360 wired controller to work
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You know the amperage of the power source you are using? It might just be not enough power. Because the device itself will take from it also. Its pretty much splitting it. Which is why I went with a legit Galaxy Tab 2a charger since its one of the most powerful chargers I've come across. I hope it works. Since bluetooth doesn't work on the OTG yet, I need the 360 controller to work. I will be trying a wireless controller and one of those Microsoft adapters soon. Hopefully it works! I'd love to play some video games in the car
nFiniti said:
You know the amperage of the power source you are using? It might just be not enough power. Because the device itself will take from it also. Its pretty much splitting it. Which is why I went with a legit Galaxy Tab 2a charger since its one of the most powerful chargers I've come across. I hope it works. Since bluetooth doesn't work on the OTG yet, I need the 360 controller to work. I will be trying a wireless controller and one of those Microsoft adapters soon. Hopefully it works! I'd love to play some video games in the car
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You have a good point there, I haven't tested the amperage that comes out of a arduino but I don't think it would be much. I could try and hock up a iPad charger which I think is 2amp.
---------- Post added at 11:08 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:34 AM ----------
facelessloser said:
You have a good point there, I haven't tested the amperage that comes out of a arduino but I don't think it would be much. I could try and hock up a iPad charger which I think is 2amp.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have just tested the Xbox 360 controller being powered from a iPad charging plug and now joy. It lights up but then goes off
I'm making my own otg cable tonight if the spare usb cable I found works for data and not just charging. Basically I have a female usb port on a cable that I used to splice in with an original Xbox controller plug to be able to use usb sticks as memory cards for my Xbox to be able to install gentoo Linux on my Xbox (original Xbox controllers are usb 1.0 with a proprietary plug type) so I know the female port works fine for data transfers.
Eventually I'll buy some plugs to solder onto both the usb and Xbox cables so I can yank the female plug from the otg cable and snap it right onto the Xbox plug instead of having to constantly re-splice them or buy a new usb extension cable for the female end/buy a pre made otg cable.
Sent from my Vivid 4G using xda app-developers app
---------- Post added at 12:30 AM ---------- Previous post was at 12:27 AM ----------
Oh yeah, the point to my post was that I have three usb hubs, two powered one not, and a ton of stuff to test with my kf2 like a billion usb keyboards, mice, storage devices, and the one I REALLY want to get working, my afterglow Xbox 360 controller for minecraft pocket edition
Sent from my Vivid 4G using xda app-developers app
Support any KF2 ROM Bluetooth Dongles ? (to use BT headset)
avathor said:
Support any KF2 ROM Bluetooth Dongles ? (to use BT headset)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
IDK how thats going. I don't think anyone is working on it since the KF2 doesn't have bluetooth to begin with. When I connect my cheapo BT Dongle, it doesn't allow me to turn the switch to on. However it does see the BT Dongle and thinks its a keyboard of some sort. Which would be nice because I have a really nice BT Keyboard for Android I wanna use.
Also would be nice to use PS3 Controllers. I'm going to attempt the wireless 360 controller with the adapter one of these days, whenever I can focus some cash in that direction. I really want a wireless 360 controller on my KF2 so I can play some of the higher end games as well as the older Emulated games. Just think its too cool
Hi, I don't personally own a atrix, but I have ordered a lap dock in the hopes of making a laptop with the Odroid U2 board. However, the U2 requires 5v 2A to power it. I was wondering how I could draw 2A from the lapdock.
Jerry
JerryBYong said:
Hi, I don't personally own a atrix, but I have ordered a lap dock in the hopes of making a laptop with the Odroid U2 board. However, the U2 requires 5v 2A to power it. I was wondering how I could draw 2A from the lapdock.
Jerry
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I own an imito MX2 tv stick and it also needs 5V-2A power supply. And i get that from lapdocks USB port only issue i had was with the cheapo USB cable that came with device... i used one of the better once i already had and it works no problem
So I guess it should be hassle free for you too... just make sure you use a good cable
Any updates on this? I have an atrix dock i bought for modding but haven't touched yet. This u2 looks amazing.
On a side note it makes you question the price and size of desktops. For $180 imagine 2 of these were combined, 8core, 4gb ram....
Posted from Tapatalk 2 app
Really glad someone replied to this thread.
First off, I did some digging around the hardkernel forums and found out that you could indeed power the U2 off the lapdock micro-usb just fine.
Second, in reply to 96shox, the new Samsung S4 is rumoured to have a eight-core processor and I believe the future generations of the U2/X2 will use something like that and probably with 4gb RAM. So it may be a good idea to wait a while if you can
sheennick123456 said:
I own an imito MX2 tv stick and it also needs 5V-2A power supply. And i get that from lapdocks USB port only issue i had was with the cheapo USB cable that came with device... i used one of the better once i already had and it works no problem
So I guess it should be hassle free for you too... just make sure you use a good cable
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You are using the micro-usb on the lapdock right?
Lapdock Help needed
Got Lapdock for 70~ dollars from ebay 2 weeks back. After reading so many blogs and viewing youtube videos, I thought my Raspberry Pi model B could be put for good use along with some of the awesome hacks I found on this site. BTW i also have a nexus one and recently a nexus 4. So naturally all this holds a place in the Lapdock realm of things to be connected to. My question is I have got the following wires after a lot of thought, could some one here tell me if this will work:
1. Raspberry Pi Model B
2. Lapdock Atrix 4G
3. Micro HDMI female -> HDMI Female Coupler as found here cgi <dot> ebay <dot> com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=140943218129
4.Micro USB female to Micro USB Male Charger cable from Ebay
5. HDMI Male to Male coupler.
6. HDMI Male to Male extension Cable 3 feet
Idea is
1. Using Raspberry pi Connect #3 item above and #4 item to Lapdock. Then #5 sits on #3 and to #5 I connect the Rasp Pi. For power and control #4 to RaspPi. Will this work?
2. Laptop second monitor. Using #3 and #6 connect HDMI Male to Laptop and use.
3. Using Nexus 4: Need to buy either a Miracast receiver or a Slimport and hope it works. (Do I need to root the phone, if yes what is the ROM preferred?)
4. Using Nexus One: Not yet figured a way but as of now will not work.
5. For PS3 : Same way using #3 and #6.
I got the wires and plugs today. Sadly the #1 above does not work
I plugged in the Micro HDMI female -> HDMI Female Coupler to lapdock and then HDMI Male to Male extension Cable 3 feet to Raspberry Pi and powered Rasp PI with all possible means (Power from mains as well). Sadly when I opened up the lapdock nothing really happened. Blank Screen!!! I even ensured that the Lapdock is fully charged. If I press that little button below the opening slot it shows 5 tiny white LED's . But does this not have any kind of Power ON button. I opened the screen and try to use the USB at the back as a power source for my Raspberry Pi, sadly that too did not power ON.
Is the Lapdock DOA?? Better not be as I got in Ebay and dont know how to deal with it OR is Part #3 the culprit.
Any way to check if the Lapdock is dead with what I have before I order another round of wires. FML, all the enthusiasm went down with this.
Help please.
you can try with android tv stick
Sent from my MB860 using xda app-developers app
My Odroid U2 + Lapdock
Hi,
I know this is a late reply...
I just got my odroid U2 + lapdock project working last night so I figured I'd share the result. I used the bionic lapdock btw.
I'ts completely mobile. I was able to power the odroid off of one of the lapdock USB ports. The other USB port has a 4 port hub attached that contains the wifi and bluetooth adapter. The micro usb is connected the one of the USB ports on the odroid and has the power wire disconnected. It works in connecting all USB ports and the keyboard/mouse pad from the lapdock. The HDMI works for both the video and audio and is running at 720p.
I installed linaro 12.11 and all updates, including mali drivers, onto the odroid U2.
The only disadvantage is that the lapdock USB ports only supply power when the screen is opened so if you close the screen the power to the board is cut. Besides that it's running flawlessly!
Also, I used an old Nintendo 64 power supply for the "case", the odroid fan is mounted on top. I don't recommend it because it took a lot of modding to make it work. I removed the heat sink that comes with the odroid and put small copper heat sinks onto the chips which works great and doesn't overheat.
So I'm attaching the pics, most important part lol. By the way it's ugly.
lrussell851 said:
Hi,
I know this is a late reply...
I just got my odroid U2 + lapdock project working last night so I figured I'd share the result. I used the bionic lapdock btw.
I'ts completely mobile. I was able to power the odroid off of one of the lapdock USB ports. The other USB port has a 4 port hub attached that contains the wifi and bluetooth adapter. The micro usb is connected the one of the USB ports on the odroid and has the power wire disconnected. It works in connecting all USB ports and the keyboard/mouse pad from the lapdock. The HDMI works for both the video and audio and is running at 720p.
I installed linaro 12.11 and all updates, including mali drivers, onto the odroid U2.
The only disadvantage is that the lapdock USB ports only supply power when the screen is opened so if you close the screen the power to the board is cut. Besides that it's running flawlessly!
Also, I used an old Nintendo 64 power supply for the "case", the odroid fan is mounted on top. I don't recommend it because it took a lot of modding to make it work. I removed the heat sink that comes with the odroid and put small copper heat sinks onto the chips which works great and doesn't overheat.
So I'm attaching the pics, most important part lol. By the way it's ugly.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've been thinking about doing something like this for a while! I'll PM you later on my ideas for this. Thanks for taking the plunge first my man!
does this run in native resolution? Does the U2 alow you to run 1366x768?
Yup
corruptsector said:
does this run in native resolution? Does the U2 alow you to run 1366x768?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes it runs in 1366x768. The lapdock is 720p but thats it. I'm pretty sure it won't run in a higher resolution image.
96shox said:
Any updates on this? I have an atrix dock i bought for modding but haven't touched yet. This u2 looks amazing.
On a side note it makes you question the price and size of desktops. For $180 imagine 2 of these were combined, 8core, 4gb ram....
Posted from Tapatalk 2 app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Exactly what was on my mind. Though I am expecting newer versions of U2 by the end of 2013 or start 2014, which would sport new exynos 5. Lets hope for the best.
Here's to let everyone know that dex on the Note 10 works with the old Atrix lapdock very well
In case anyone has one lying around and wants to see it in action, you would want the following accessories:
1. USB-C to HDMI adapter ( I opted for 1 with HDMI, USB 3.0 & USB-C in for power )
2. micro HDMI to HDMI cable
3. Female micro HDMI to Female micro HDMI adapter
Optional:
1. Modified USB A to micro USB cable ( more on this later )
2. Female micro USB to Female micro USB adapter
3. USB Cable + Charger to charge your phone
If all you want is to bring up dex on your lapdock, all you need are the HDMI connectors. You will want to use a Bluetooth keyboard & mouse to navigate dex and will not be able to charge your phone.
Going 1 step further, you can use a multi-function USB-C adapter with HDMI, USB OTG & USB in for power.
Here, you would modify a usb cable to give you access to the lapdock keyboard & mousepad. The lapdock was designed to be an all-in-one setup with the Atrix phone, so the 10 hour battery could also charge the Atrix. <-- That's our problem. So you will need to snip the RED wire in the usb cable to prevent the lapdock from potentially frying your phone or other devices.
Theoretically, you can charge the phone using the 2 usb ports on the back of the lapdock, but it's a trickle effect. It'll take forever and you won't be happy. I did it in a pinch & running any applications under dex still consumed my phone's battery. Plugging it into a charger, though, kept my phone @ 100%.
A big caveat here is the mousepad is NOT multitouch, so I still used my bluetooth mouse for the scroll wheel.
Here's where this becomes a lot of fun... the lapdock screen is great for running emulators in a decent window. I plugged in my shield gamepad with a usb cable into the back of my lapdock and was able to play pretty much anything I wanted to. Still plugged into an outlet kept the phone @ 100% while emulating 100%+ speeds.
The larger screen is also very nice for streaming tv/movies.
There is an option in the Dex control panel to output audio through the HDMI cable, so you aren't relying on your phone for audio.
Anyway, if you have one of these gems lying around, it's a great way to extend the value of this phone.
ycavan said:
Here's to let everyone know that dex on the Note 10 works with the old Atrix lapdock very well
In case anyone has one lying around and wants to see it in action, you would want the following accessories:
1. USB-C to HDMI adapter ( I opted for 1 with HDMI, USB 3.0 & USB-C in for power )
2. micro HDMI to HDMI cable
3. Female micro HDMI to Female micro HDMI adapter
Optional:
1. Modified USB A to micro USB cable ( more on this later )
2. Female micro USB to Female micro USB adapter
3. USB Cable + Charger to charge your phone
If all you want is to bring up dex on your lapdock, all you need are the HDMI connectors. You will want to use a Bluetooth keyboard & mouse to navigate dex and will not be able to charge your phone.
Going 1 step further, you can use a multi-function USB-C adapter with HDMI, USB OTG & USB in for power.
Here, you would modify a usb cable to give you access to the lapdock keyboard & mousepad. The lapdock was designed to be an all-in-one setup with the Atrix phone, so the 10 hour battery could also charge the Atrix. <-- That's our problem. So you will need to snip the RED wire in the usb cable to prevent the lapdock from potentially frying your phone or other devices.
Theoretically, you can charge the phone using the 2 usb ports on the back of the lapdock, but it's a trickle effect. It'll take forever and you won't be happy. I did it in a pinch & running any applications under dex still consumed my phone's battery. Plugging it into a charger, though, kept my phone @ 100%.
A big caveat here is the mousepad is NOT multitouch, so I still used my bluetooth mouse for the scroll wheel.
Here's where this becomes a lot of fun... the lapdock screen is great for running emulators in a decent window. I plugged in my shield gamepad with a usb cable into the back of my lapdock and was able to play pretty much anything I wanted to. Still plugged into an outlet kept the phone @ 100% while emulating 100%+ speeds.
The larger screen is also very nice for streaming tv/movies.
There is an option in the Dex control panel to output audio through the HDMI cable, so you aren't relying on your phone for audio.
Anyway, if you have one of these gems lying around, it's a great way to extend the value of this phone.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Annoyingly I have a Atrix lapdock but I'm not confident about the rewiring so found a good discounted HP Elite X3 lapdock. Only if someone sold the full cable and adaptor package on eBay for the Atrix
haha, it sounds more complicated than it actually is
just remember that the RED cable in the micro usb cables is power, so that's the only one that needs cutting. What I did was:
1. cut the usb cable in half
2. strip a little bit of the non-RED cables and twisted them together.
3. use electrical tape to cover each of the re-attached cables.
4. pull the red leads back onto the black sheathe
5. use electrical tape to go over the junction between the 2 halves of the cable.
All of the other components are things that are easy to order online, Amazon.
ycavan said:
haha, it sounds more complicated than it actually is
just remember that the RED cable in the micro usb cables is power, so that's the only one that needs cutting. What I did was:
1. cut the usb cable in half
2. strip a little bit of the non-RED cables and twisted them together.
3. use electrical tape to cover each of the re-attached cables.
4. pull the red leads back onto the black sheathe
5. use electrical tape to go over the junction between the 2 halves of the cable.
All of the other components are things that are easy to order online, Amazon.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Okay I'll order cables and have a go!
Please confirm the 3rd item in your list is a micro hdmi female to micro hdmi female as elsewhere I have seen micro female to standard female. Thanks
jah said:
Okay I'll order cables and have a go!
Please confirm the 3rd item in your list is a micro hdmi female to micro hdmi female as elsewhere I have seen micro female to standard female. Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, I use a micro hdmi female to female adapter for my micro hdmi male to normal hdmi male cable.
Suggestion
My take on these DeX apps is straightforward: they’re not great. If you just use them for simple tasks like texting, copying and pasting small bits of text, or dragging and dropping a file or two, it’s fine. Pushing any harder than that is likely to be a recipe for sorrow, however, as things tend to get laggy pretty quickly. I think that’s more the fault of the desktop software than the phone’s hardware, but regardless, it’s slightly disappointing.
I don’t think that’s a reason to avoid buying the Note 10, which is still an excellent phone. But the experience did get me thinking: why did I and so many others have the objectively irrational hope that DeX would unlock new ways of interacting with your phone?
I think it’s because the idea of making a sole computer sits right next to flying cars in the “this is what the future will be” section of our collective unconsciousness.
alexhalessays said:
My take on these DeX apps is straightforward: they’re not great. If you just use them for simple tasks like texting, copying and pasting small bits of text, or dragging and dropping a file or two, it’s fine. Pushing any harder than that is likely to be a recipe for sorrow, however, as things tend to get laggy pretty quickly. I think that’s more the fault of the desktop software than the phone’s hardware, but regardless, it’s slightly disappointing.
I don’t think that’s a reason to avoid buying the Note 10, which is still an excellent phone. But the experience did get me thinking: why did I and so many others have the objectively irrational hope that DeX would unlock new ways of interacting with your phone?
I think it’s because the idea of making a sole computer sits right next to flying cars in the “this is what the future will be” section of our collective unconsciousness.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Also if you can run DeX well on a lapdock, you may not need a Samsung Tab S6!.
alexhalessays said:
My take on these DeX apps is straightforward: they’re not great. If you just use them for simple tasks like texting, copying and pasting small bits of text, or dragging and dropping a file or two, it’s fine. Pushing any harder than that is likely to be a recipe for sorrow, however, as things tend to get laggy pretty quickly. I think that’s more the fault of the desktop software than the phone’s hardware, but regardless, it’s slightly disappointing.
I don’t think that’s a reason to avoid buying the Note 10, which is still an excellent phone. But the experience did get me thinking: why did I and so many others have the objectively irrational hope that DeX would unlock new ways of interacting with your phone?
I think it’s because the idea of making a sole computer sits right next to flying cars in the “this is what the future will be” section of our collective unconsciousness.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I use DeX with my lapdock instead of my "real" laptop a lot of the time. My emails are on my phone, contacts are on my phone, pretty much all of the gaming apps I use are on my phone. The only time I ever really need my laptop is to play high end games that aren't ported to Android. Now, if only LoD would come out for the note10... :/
Does the Note 10 support the old 1366x768 resolution on the Atrix Lapdock? I remember getting it going on my Note 8 and it's not a supported resolution leading to really unusable low-res blocky everything on the screen.
bchliu said:
Does the Note 10 support the old 1366x768 resolution on the Atrix Lapdock? I remember getting it going on my Note 8 and it's not a supported resolution leading to really unusable low-res blocky everything on the screen.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yup.
Okay, managed to get my old Motorola Atrix working with my Note 10+. Took a different route to the one described above as the female to female couplers are not easy to source. So I used the Rasberry PI cables for the Atrix and my Samsung Note 8 Dex hub, which was free with the Note 8. But I have to use a BT mouse. Otherwise a good solution. But I would recommend the HP Elite X3 lapdock instead if there is not much a price difference on eBay.
ycavan said:
Here's to let everyone know that dex on the Note 10 works with the old Atrix lapdock very well
In case anyone has one lying around and wants to see it in action, you would want the following accessories:
1. USB-C to HDMI adapter ( I opted for 1 with HDMI, USB 3.0 & USB-C in for power )
2. micro HDMI to HDMI cable
3. Female micro HDMI to Female micro HDMI adapter
Optional:
1. Modified USB A to micro USB cable ( more on this later )
2. Female micro USB to Female micro USB adapter
3. USB Cable + Charger to charge your phone
If all you want is to bring up dex on your lapdock, all you need are the HDMI connectors. You will want to use a Bluetooth keyboard & mouse to navigate dex and will not be able to charge your phone.
Going 1 step further, you can use a multi-function USB-C adapter with HDMI, USB OTG & USB in for power.
Here, you would modify a usb cable to give you access to the lapdock keyboard & mousepad. The lapdock was designed to be an all-in-one setup with the Atrix phone, so the 10 hour battery could also charge the Atrix. <-- That's our problem. So you will need to snip the RED wire in the usb cable to prevent the lapdock from potentially frying your phone or other devices.
Theoretically, you can charge the phone using the 2 usb ports on the back of the lapdock, but it's a trickle effect. It'll take forever and you won't be happy. I did it in a pinch & running any applications under dex still consumed my phone's battery. Plugging it into a charger, though, kept my phone @ 100%.
A big caveat here is the mousepad is NOT multitouch, so I still used my bluetooth mouse for the scroll wheel.
Here's where this becomes a lot of fun... the lapdock screen is great for running emulators in a decent window. I plugged in my shield gamepad with a usb cable into the back of my lapdock and was able to play pretty much anything I wanted to. Still plugged into an outlet kept the phone @ 100% while emulating 100%+ speeds.
The larger screen is also very nice for streaming tv/movies.
There is an option in the Dex control panel to output audio through the HDMI cable, so you aren't relying on your phone for audio.
Anyway, if you have one of these gems lying around, it's a great way to extend the value of this phone.
[/QUOT
ycavan said:
Here's to let everyone know that dex on the Note 10 works with the old Atrix lapdock very well
In case anyone has one lying around and wants to see it in action, you would want the following accessories:
1. USB-C to HDMI adapter ( I opted for 1 with HDMI, USB 3.0 & USB-C in for power )
2. micro HDMI to HDMI cable
3. Female micro HDMI to Female micro HDMI adapter
Optional:
1. Modified USB A to micro USB cable ( more on this later )
2. Female micro USB to Female micro USB adapter
3. USB Cable + Charger to charge your phone
If all you want is to bring up dex on your lapdock, all you need are the HDMI connectors. You will want to use a Bluetooth keyboard & mouse to navigate dex and will not be able to charge your phone.
Going 1 step further, you can use a multi-function USB-C adapter with HDMI, USB OTG & USB in for power.
Here, you would modify a usb cable to give you access to the lapdock keyboard & mousepad. The lapdock was designed to be an all-in-one setup with the Atrix phone, so the 10 hour battery could also charge the Atrix. <-- That's our problem. So you will need to snip the RED wire in the usb cable to prevent the lapdock from potentially frying your phone or other devices.
Theoretically, you can charge the phone using the 2 usb ports on the back of the lapdock, but it's a trickle effect. It'll take forever and you won't be happy. I did it in a pinch & running any applications under dex still consumed my phone's battery. Plugging it into a charger, though, kept my phone @ 100%.
A big caveat here is the mousepad is NOT multitouch, so I still used my bluetooth mouse for the scroll wheel.
Here's where this becomes a lot of fun... the lapdock screen is great for running emulators in a decent window. I plugged in my shield gamepad with a usb cable into the back of my lapdock and was able to play pretty much anything I wanted to. Still plugged into an outlet kept the phone @ 100% while emulating 100%+ speeds.
The larger screen is also very nice for streaming tv/movies.
There is an option in the Dex control panel to output audio through the HDMI cable, so you aren't relying on your phone for audio.
Anyway, if you have one of these gems lying around, it's a great way to extend the value of this phone.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi, I'm trying to do the same. I've got a Note 10+ hooked up to my old Atrix lapdock. Note goes to a multiport adapter. From the adapter's USB-A output, I ran a cable to the lapdock's micro-USB. From the adapter's HDMI out, I ran a cable to the lapdock's mini-HDMI. With that, I can use the lapdock's screen but no keyboard or trackpad.
I ran a cable from the adapter's USB-C to one of the lapdock's rear USB ports, after snipping the red wire, but still no kb/m. The phone does charge like this though.
What have I done wrong? TIA.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The USB cable going to the micro-USB port on the lapdock needs to have the red cable snipped. What I did was to snip the red cable and pull both snipped ends back, then use a bit of electrical tape to cover that part of the wire so the snipped ends don't accidentally touch anything.
The USB cable(s) going to the rear of the lapdock are fine unmodified.
Dude/Dudette thank you so much!!! It's only because I came across your thread here that I decided to try and resurrect my trusty old lapdock, and now it works perfectly!
Thanks for replying so quickly. I modified the wrong cable - snipped the red wire on the USB cable running to the rear USB-A port. Doh!
ycavan said:
The USB cable going to the micro-USB port on the lapdock needs to have the red cable snipped. What I did was to snip the red cable and pull both snipped ends back, then use a bit of electrical tape to cover that part of the wire so the snipped ends don't accidentally touch anything.
The USB cable(s) going to the rear of the lapdock are fine unmodified.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse