Develop Bugs

Samsung Allshare cast dongle firmware update problem solution

Hi, I just like to share my experience with problem connection my Galaxy S3 to my 2nd new Samsung Allshare cast dongle. As you can see, I have two Samsung Allshare cast dongles. One in the bedroom, the new one for the sitting room. The first one was bought long time ago and had been working fine. Got latest ME29 firmware. Connection is fast and no problem at all. Now, the price of this dongle has dropped so I proceeded to get myself another one for the sitting room, saving me unplugging it and plugging it, etc.. The new one has the JB version of firmware. The phone detected it without any problem but it kept on showing failed to connect message almost instantly when I tapped on the detected device on the touch screen. This is how I have ended up here at this website. After hours of reading, stock.rom, custome.rom, .pdk, etc.. I was still getting nowhere. But I don't know why. I kept on seeing in my head the blue LED showing on the dongle. Well, stupid of me, I had thrown away the packaging and with it the manual. So, I tried to download it from Samsung website. There is nothing about this dongle on the UK Samsung support website. From my experience with other worldwide hardware companies, so I tried Samsung support website in other countries. And I found a customer commented on another customer's query. So, here is the solution for those people with connection problem after updating the dongle's firmware to ME29. No harm to try this before going down the custom rom route.
After updating the firmware of the Allshare cast dongle, (by the way, my S3 has the latest jelly bean on), it will say Allshare is closed. At the same time, the red LED that was flashing would be solid red now (not flashing). Unplug the power (miniUSB) from the dongle, count to 10 and plug it back. The dongle should be showing a solid red LED now. Press and hold the button at the back of the dongle for about 15 seconds and the red LED should be flashing now. At this point, you can restart your phone just in case. Or just disable the WiFi and then enable it on your S3. Now, go to the dongle, press and hold the button for one or two seconds, the flashing red LED will change to solid BLUE. Now, go to your S3, turn on AllShare. It will detect the dongle. Tap on the detected device on your S3..... lo and behold....it connects!!!!!! Just to repeat, I have not downloaded or mod my S3 in anyway.
The blue LED is only for use in the very first time of connection. So, I guess updating the firmware constitutes a "first time connection" condition. I hope this information help. Good luck all.

What app is used to update dongle? Sorry if this is a NOOB question. ..
Hi,
I have not been able to find an app either on the Google play store or the Sammy app store to upgrade firmware.
The version shown is LJ02. But I seem to have constantly re - pair every time I try to use it.
Help on the firmware elsewhere on the forums someone mentioned there was a better device now (linksys dlink? I don't remember)
TIA - Thanks in advance
Frank

[Q] New AFTV stuck on amazon logo but still adb access.

Hello,
Got an AFTV at staple the other day. I tried to follow the aftvnews guide "How to setup a new AFTV...".
Apparently my AFTV was pretty old since the initial unplug/plug trick did not work and the box was always stuk on waiting to download the update. I finally let the update run through and ended up with Firmware 51.1.0.2_user_510058520.
After that I tried to root the AFTV. For this I used adbFire. I was able to connect to the box (no internet connection at that time) and click on the Towelroot option. I did click on "Make it ra1n" and wait for a very long time. I never saw any message indicating that it succeded or failed. With the remote I ended up going back to the previous menu. I tried to install SuperSu but that did not work. Su was not installed. After rebooting the box, I get the back and white Amazon logo and then the screen goes black. The TV shows the selected input as if the AFTV is not sending any signal. I tried to plug the internet cable (with the 2 domains blocked) and the AFTV finally goes from the Orange blicking led to the Blue one but it's still stuck after the amazon back and white logo. I did try the ALT-I-PrntScr (which had worked previously when I was trying to prevent the update to install, I managed to get into recovery and do a factory reset ,so I know the keyboard itself is OK). But this time ALT-I-PrntScr only get the box to restart and brings me back to the Amazon black and white logo that disappear after a minute.
Nevertheless, I can still access the box from an adb shell, adbFire can connect to the AFTV. But since I no longer see any menu on the screen I can't attempt to reroot from adb fire.
A reboot recovery does not work as it's not authorized.
su command is not found , so it would confirm supersu did not install (properly). What's weird though is that if I do a ps, I see a process "u0_a1 6199 328 476352 18640 ffffffff 00000000 S eu.chainfire.supersu"
Any idea how I can unstuck the box ?
Thank you.

Some info for people in the same situation, the issue was that Towelroot needs internet access to complete.

i have exactly the same situation here. system doing an update and the power got cut off and viola. Welcome white amazon logo and pulsing white and orange indicator light. Tried all the possible ways found on the forum and net but no joy. Now its sitting on my drawer and hoping i can still find a way to make it alive.

DhiJay23 said:
i have exactly the same situation here. system doing an update and the power got cut off and viola. Welcome white amazon logo and pulsing white and orange indicator light. Tried all the possible ways found on the forum and net but no joy. Now its sitting on my drawer and hoping i can still find a way to make it alive.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have the same exact issue right now, probably that same update yours downloaded from 2 weeks ago:
https://forum.xda-developers.com/fire-tv/general/fire-tv-stuck-amazon-logo-adb-t3809305
This guy had the same problem too, and he has a big list of things to try, none of which worked for me:
https://forum.xda-developers.com/fire-tv/help/fire-tv-remains-stuck-amazon-firetv-t3561797
Mine's unrooted on the latest version, so I guess I can't root and reinstall rom. I'd hate to have to throw this away it's only 2 years old. I have a 5 year old Roku that still runs great.
"Perfect" timing I guess with Prime Day coming up?
Edit: couple more guys having the same issue recently, sounds like a mass bricking going on
https://forum.xda-developers.com/fire-tv/help/firetv-box-white-amazon-logo-blank-t3472867
https://forum.xda-developers.com/fire-tv/help/fire-tv-stucks-white-amazon-logo-t2889867
https://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2799779&page=7

DhiJay23 said:
i have exactly the same situation here. system doing an update and the power got cut off and viola. Welcome white amazon logo and pulsing white and orange indicator light. Tried all the possible ways found on the forum and net but no joy. Now its sitting on my drawer and hoping i can still find a way to make it alive.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I played with mine a bit more today and I was able to fix
I read somewhere that someone else was having the same issue and said it was a HDCP handshake issue and they were able to fix by plugging to a different HDMI port on the TV. I tried that and it booted up to the colorful Amazon logo, showed the home page for a sec, then went to a black screen. From here, it would flash the home screen really quick randomly every 30 secs or so, so I know it booted up and I'm on the home page, it's just not displaying correctly. I was then able to pair my remote (I unpaired before because I was using flirc), then us the remote shortcut to factory reset. Good to go after the reset.
TBH, I did not try turning it on before I swapped HDMI ports so I'm not 100% sure if switching ports really did help it boot past the white logo, or if it just happen to get fixed after some time.
Interestingly while on the colorful logo, the alt+i+printscreen trick did not work for me. So it took me longer before I could get to the factory reset.

johnusesandroid said:
I played with mine a bit more today and I was able to fix
I read somewhere that someone else was having the same issue and said it was a HDCP handshake issue and they were able to fix by plugging to a different HDMI port on the TV. I tried that and it booted up to the colorful Amazon logo, showed the home page for a sec, then went to a black screen. From here, it would flash the home screen really quick randomly every 30 secs or so, so I know it booted up and I'm on the home page, it's just not displaying correctly. I was then able to pair my remote (I unpaired before because I was using flirc), then us the remote shortcut to factory reset. Good to go after the reset.
TBH, I did not try turning it on before I swapped HDMI ports so I'm not 100% sure if switching ports really did help it boot past the white logo, or if it just happen to get fixed after some time.
Interestingly while on the colorful logo, the alt+i+printscreen trick did not work for me. So it took me longer before I could get to the factory reset.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I wish I had the same luck like you but i tried different tv's, all the ports availble and different HDMI cables but still no luck.

Anyone able to find a solution to fix it? or should I just throw it out?

DhiJay23 said:
Anyone able to find a solution to fix it? or should I just throw it out?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry you weren't able to fix. Before you throw away, try contacting support. Not because they can fix it, they most probably can't. When I had problems with mine, I contacted them and they gave me a $15 credit off of a new one because I was out of warranty. This was a couple days before Prime Day so I was able to snag a new one for really cheap. Plus my old one started working again, so I now have 2 Fire TVs

[Q] Broke Amazon Fire Tv box?

I brought a new amazon fire tv box. I am not looking to root. I booted it up, it updated. I connected to my network. Downloaded Netflix tried to watch Netflix and it gave me a error. So I unplugged the box to reboot. Plugged it back up and nothing. The unit won't power on. So I did an RMA and got a new one.
Got the new one, powered it up, took the update, downloaded Netflix, same error on not playing. Used the remote to put unit in sleep mode. And now the unit won't come back on. Did I get two bad units? Is there any hope in getting this thing to boot back up?
Any thoughts?

nighthawk777 said:
I brought a new amazon fire tv box. I am not looking to root. I booted it up, it updated. I connected to my network. Downloaded Netflix tried to watch Netflix and it gave me a error. So I unplugged the box to reboot. Plugged it back up and nothing. The unit won't power on. So I did an RMA and got a new one.
Got the new one, powered it up, took the update, downloaded Netflix, same error on not playing. Used the remote to put unit in sleep mode. And now the unit won't come back on. Did I get two bad units? Is there any hope in getting this thing to boot back up?
Any thoughts?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That is some strange stuff...netflix errors are common but a reboot almost always fixes it. I don't know what's going on but amazon actually has great customer service so make a call and more than likely they'll either walk you through it or possibly send you a new one.

i have the same issue, it stopped working after a day. No power LED no nothing.
I was holding "select and play" in an attempt to restart the box because i encountered sluggish performance on Kodi.
Afterwhich, i am not able to turn it back on again despite changing socket points and random clicking on the remote.
While i am waiting for a new set from Amazon, is there anyone who has encountered the same issue but have managed to power up the box??

I am in the exact same position ....
- new out of the box
- updated as part of the install process
- side-loaded Kodi with a "success" message
- rebooted as instructed with play and select for 5 seconds ....
- nothing, dead, no reboot, nothing, no light. Seems completely dead.
As the person above - let me know if you anyone has a thought.

brickspeed said:
I am in the exact same position ....
- new out of the box
- updated as part of the install process
- side-loaded Kodi with a "success" message
- rebooted as instructed with play and select for 5 seconds ....
- nothing, dead, no reboot, nothing, no light. Seems completely dead.
As the person above - let me know if you anyone has a thought.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I was reading the feedback on Amazon fire tv product page, apparently we are not the only ones.
Based on the users' feedback, seems like Amazon engineers have acknowledged that it's a known issue. SCARY.

I have the exact same thing, there is definitely a bad batch going around.
My Fire TV arrived on Monday, 2/16/15. I plugged it in and took an update as part of the setup. I installed several apps and logged in to accounts, watched about 3 hours of stuff on it that night. The next day it was dead as a door nail. No lights, no amount of button mashing on the remote made any difference. I have a replacement being sent out. The AFTV is currently out of stock, I'm curious if this is related.

I read another person complaining another site. Do we have anything resembling a common link? It seems so far this is effecting non-rooted aftvs with the latest update but not all aftvs. Are all of these units relatively new? Purchase date?
I just want to figure out if it's hardware or software related. I purchased another one after Xmas and no issues so far.

Just got mine, set it up, used it maybe for 2 hours, unplugged, connected to the TV and same thing. Dead.

Haha same thing happened to me. Got Kodi and everything installed. Unplugged the Fire TV and now it's bricked.

same happened to me.
got my unit today installed kodi fine. Was using the llama method to get a kodi icon added to the home screen. needed a reboot and used the select+play method on remote and now it won't turn back on. Contacted amazon and they are sending me a new replacement.

teng247 said:
got my unit today installed kodi fine. Was using the llama method to get a kodi icon added to the home screen. needed a reboot and used the select+play method on remote and now it won't turn back on. Contacted amazon and they are sending me a new replacement.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Anyone who have gotten their replacement units, may i know if you guys encounter the same issue again?
I am still waiting for my replacement set.

I'm guessing from the symptoms mentioned that it is their recent efuse blow up related. Maybe recent update did not update bootloader for some reason. If that so then box is not booting bootloader and sits in qualcomm recovery mode in which you can hook up it with usb "male a - male a" cable to pc and have full emmc access for flashing correct bootloader.

Add me on the list for a broken 1 day use on the AFTV. I sideloaded Kodi and was using it last night. Put it in sleep mode and then went to sleep myself. Woke up this morning and no lights/repsonse or anything on the box. Contacted Amazon customer support. One for the first few questions they asked is if I had sideloaded anything. I of course denied I did such a thing in case they try to back out of warranty issues. Customer Service Representative talks to her supervisor and instead of issuing a replacement unit they are sending me a new power adapter instead. Customer service rep states that her supervisor says from their experience that is usually the issue. I tell her with my voltage tester that i am detecting current running through the line. They still insist on power adapter.
Just to see if there is commonality among the AFTVs, did you guys get your boxes during the Sling TV promotion? Maybe a bad production batch?

How would side load affects the ability to power the box?? *puzzled*
There are so many users who did it, why does the issue only occurs recently.
An Amazon customer service told me this is not a common issue, but I have been seeing more and more of such cases.

All,
I have rooted at least 10 boxes, none fo my family or friends have report this issues. Of course, all these AFTV has Rbox pre-rooted firmware installed so i am going to guess folks who have reported this issues are non rooted boxes running the latest Amazon firmware.
It would ideal, If users who have reported this could provide the following info, this will help to identify a patter.
1) Serial number (it generally starts with 70900xxx)
3) Purchase date
4) Box purchased from?
4) Is your box rooted? If so what is have you installed (boatloader unlock (partial or fully) CWM, prerooted rom, ect)
5) what firmware is the box running (Amazon stock or Rbox), please provide the actual firmware version.
6) Was the firmware ever updated, if so from what version to what?
6) Sideloaded app
7) how long did you use the box before it went dead.
Thank you

tylerxm84 said:
How would side load affects the ability to power the box?? *puzzled*
There are so many users who did it, why does the issue only occurs recently.
An Amazon customer service told me this is not a common issue, but I have been seeing more and more of such cases.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not a "common issue" is pretty subjective. What matters is its happened to several people in a short span of time, and xda members account for a tiny percentage of aftv owners. I contacted amazon for a different issue recently and what I realized was that rep giving support has never actually used a fire TV.
I don't think its the efuse like another person mentioned here unless it blew and had unintended consequences. Efuse, I think, is supposed to put it in an "obscure recovery mode". The box should power on. It'd still be useless but the fact that it does nothing makes me think its not efuse related.
For curiosity sake I'd like to hear what happens if they try a different power supply. Not amazon stock as that's been tried. But that might be academic, those boxes seem dead and unrecoverable. Since amazon will surely send a replacement, I'd open it up and see if there's anything noticeable. You won't find a blown efuse since that's not visible to the naked eye.

KLit75 said:
I don't think its the efuse like another person mentioned here unless it blew and had unintended consequences. Efuse, I think, is supposed to put it in an "obscure recovery mode". The box should power on. It'd still be useless but the fact that it does nothing makes me think its not efuse related.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
How you identified than box is not powering on? Front white led indicator initialized when bootloader is loaded, if bootloader blacklisted by efuse there will be no light on front panel.

Ck-NoSFeRaTU said:
How you identified than box is not powering on? Front white led indicator initialized when bootloader is loaded, if bootloader blacklisted by efuse there will be no light on front panel.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You could very well be right. Just from reading vaguely about refuse, it renders the device useless but you would see something on the screen. I didn't think the light indicated boot loader. I thought it was an indication of power and it turns white when an internet connection is established. As far as I know...exactly how a blown refuse manifests on aftv has yet to be described.

KLit75 said:
You could very well be right. Just from reading vaguely about refuse, it renders the device useless but you would see something on the screen. I didn't think the light indicated boot loader. I thought it was an indication of power and it turns white when an internet connection is established. As far as I know...exactly how a blown refuse manifests on aftv has yet to be described.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I had first hand experience with a blown efuse. After certain pre-rooted ROM was loaded, it was ON,After the first reboot, unit had no LED light, nothing on screen. Using A A USB cable I can see the file structures of the unit, I was able to partially recovered (lost root) afterward.
These new units show the exact symptoms, dead after first reboot.

Unit won't come back on
I have the same problem. I am on my second unit. It powered up correctly, I re-registered, and I re-selected my favorites, I watched one show. I finished and turned it off. Now, nothing! I cannot turn it back on. This was the same problem with the first unit. I've tried all the basic hardware fixes - new batteries, new HDMI, etc, but still nothing. I have followed all the basic troubleshooting suggestions from Amazon. Still nothing. Can someone please suggest the right fix?

Carperformance.se Uconnect Android system help.

I am hoping I can find some help in here with a couple problems I am running into on this system that would make it so much better to me.
The system is basically an Android box utilizing the touch screen and monitor of my Uconnect 8.4 head unit. The naming in the settings is rk3188 and is running on KitKat 4.4.4, so it is some variant of the Android TV boxes. If there are other specs or info that are needed to help in possibly fixing my issues please let me know.
Issue 1: although not major, there is no option to have OK Google from any screen. Having this option for a car system is obviously something helpful. In the settings of the Google App trying to access the menu for OK Google detection doesn't work, so I can't even get to the screen where that option lives. I have the most up to date version of Google App and Google Play Services. I have Google searched on ways to fix this but nothing has brought that ability up. I know Android version 4.4.4 was capable of this. There was another app that utilized Googles voice engine and allowed this function but Google made him stop using their servers and killed that as an option.
Issue 2: this is the biggest bother to me and I could not find anything even related to what's happening in my searches. The system comes loaded with some apps and using Launcher3 for its front end, it has big buttons but offers almost no ability to customize it. The bottom row has apps that you cannot switch out to anything else, and 3 of them I will never be using. The system works but is not as nice as it could look or function. The obvious answer is to use a different launcher which is where the problem arises. I have tried to use Nova and Apex so far with the same very frustrating outcome. After the install everything is great, I can set the screen up to look amazing and add icons and functionality that really make it a great experience. So everything is working lovely then I shut my truck off and go do whatever. The next time I come back I start the truck up everything loads fine, the new launcher and everything I did to it is working just as expected until about 5 minutes in the screen goes black for a second and then the system goes through a factory reset. Really? Are you kidding me? The first couple times I thought maybe I hit something because I hadn't fully put my truck back together but after playing with it more and having the system factory reset 5 other times I have concluded it is related to changing the launcher. I tried Nova first, then I tried Apex with the same outcome and same sequence of events. Obviously it's annoying everytime testing this because updating and reentering my info everytime just to try the launcher again is time consuming. The last test the only thing I did was a different launcher so that has to be it, but why and how can I fix it?
If anyone has any clue how using a different launcher would cause a factory reset to happen please help me out. Or if there is anything I can do to this system to prevent that. My last resort thought would be to root it but I read someone else who has this system that rooting it caused screen layout issues and made things go 90 degrees off? The loaded apps in the system have touch screen calibration and screen resizing which might be necessary for this to function with the monitor.
Thanks for any help.

I spoke with someone else that has the system and they are not having any issues with running a different launcher so something happen to my particular device. I contacted the company and they will be getting me the firmware to refresh it and hopefully that fixes the resetting issue.

i am looking to get this also. I am very curious how you like the device - it looks great though a bit out of date. Waze & email should work well. How much storage does it have? Can you add a sd card or something?

RichTJ99 said:
i am looking to get this also. I am very curious how you like the device - it looks great though a bit out of date. Waze & email should work well. How much storage does it have? Can you add a sd card or something?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm getting a new unit sent out, it seems there are 2 versions and for whatever reason mine wouldn't let me customize the launcher.
But even though it's outdated, every app I tried worked just fine, they still install the latest versions. The system has 8gb of on board storage and a microSD card slot that is mainly for loading maps for offline navigation. I think you can still access it for other uses, but they have a better option for that. There is a USB input for flash drives or external drives. I tried my 2TB external drive on it and it accessed my movies fine from it.

How did you get it installed? Who?

got any pics?

Actually I would be interested in this too, I have an Alfa Romeo and the Uconnect 6.5 (european version) which isn't that great, it would be nice to attach a sort of box with ARM hardware running on Android and using the display and touch of the existing Uconnect. The question is, how this can be done?

http://www.dodgedurango.net/forums/.../24632-android-phone-uconnect-8-4-screen.html
I would check out this thread. It has two videos that walk you through the entire process - great info!

I also bought this latest Android system V4 2 weeks ago. Auto launcher pro app is very good working. At the moment there is a issue with the system time, which is not correctly synchronized with gps time. Carperformance Team is working on a fix for that. How can I get root Access for this Android 7 System?

Diabollon said:
I also bought this latest Android system V4 2 weeks ago. Auto launcher pro app is very good working. At the moment there is a issue with the system time, which is not correctly synchronized with gps time. Carperformance Team is working on a fix for that. How can I get root Access for this Android 7 System?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
glad to hear i'm not going crazy with the clock but there is an issue.
I just bought and installed a V4 a couple weeks back too.
i must have left a loose connection cause i keep having to recall the touchscreen for android. I half-arsed the install cause we were leaving for a 2k mile roadtrip the next day- need to take it apart and do it right. Luckily you can connect a usb mouse in to trigger the calibration app.
id also love root- at the moment im trying to figure out if the one usb port is safe to connect an A to A usb cable into to get ADB. apparently on some versions of nvida sheild, you can. If they provide a firmware update for the clock fix then maybe that gets us an image to futz with for root.
a keyboard also works in teh usb port and i've tried a handful of key combos during boot to get to recovery but haven't stumbled on it yet.
I'll post back if i find anything

michaelk said:
glad to hear i'm not going crazy with the clock but there is an issue.
I just bought and installed a V4 a couple weeks back too.
i must have left a loose connection cause i keep having to recall the touchscreen for android. I half-arsed the install cause we were leaving for a 2k mile roadtrip the next day- need to take it apart and do it right. Luckily you can connect a usb mouse in to trigger the calibration app.
id also love root- at the moment im trying to figure out if the one usb port is safe to connect an A to A usb cable into to get ADB. apparently on some versions of nvida sheild, you can. If they provide a firmware update for the clock fix then maybe that gets us an image to futz with for root.
a keyboard also works in teh usb port and i've tried a handful of key combos during boot to get to recovery but haven't stumbled on it yet.
I'll post back if i find anything
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi @michaelk
Good to hear that I am not alone here with this special system V4. Except for the issue with the system time and no root access, I am fully satisfied so far. I hope to fix it soon. If we had root access then we could solve this issue with the system time with some time apps ourselves.
Thank you for your experiences.
Best regards
Diabollon

wiring harness investigation
so played around some today.
I've got an issue where I need to recalibrate the screen almost every time I boot. it seems the box (or card added to the radio?) forgets things and only works the bottom right corner and also seems to rotate 90 degrees at boot. The end result is unusable screen. I think carperformance is just a reseller because of their response. They're friendly and reply quickly but are really unable to help. The first answer was just randomly fiddle with screen and try to find calibrate setting and reboot- that proved impossible and on my own I discovered a 6 dollar USB mouse from the Walmart could be used to navigate to the calibrate app. When I inquired again when it got more frequent they basically said it's not normal and offered no help except to adjust a personalization setting to run calibrate on boot- that only works once that I can figure (might be related to weird time bug)- so I settled on having tasker run calibrate on each boot. I wonder if there is a battery in the box that needs changing but the warranty sticker keeps me out for not- might add an external battery to keep it alive for a longer time to minimize the rebooting
Anyway took everything apart today to double-check and can't find any connection issues. I traced the harness a bit to try and understand a little and basically, the skinny cables run the daughterboard to snag the screen output and the touchscreen input. But i wanted to figure out what is tapped from the radio harness to the large white plug on the box and see if anything going on their .
DISCLAIMER- I NEED TO CONFIRM (it was hot - laughing) but basically seems what is tapped in radio harness is:
1) power and ground also
2) L&R aux audio signal- interesting here is they tapped a single ground (physically next to the right signal) for common. Earlier i had the RAX hack and their harness used a ground for each L&R and their aux input worked all the time without the little plugin shunt thing to trick aux input. When i dug some more and found a pin diagram from mopar I found that the 'left' ground is actually labeled "aux audio device detect signal" I need to play some more to see what happens but my guess is if we put a switch on that to short it to ground then the aux would just work to avoid the hokey plug.
3) Here's the fun- holding the screen to flip inputs could be the daughterboard running things. BUT since it also reacts to the left steering wheel button pack and switches inputs itself when you need the reverse cam- i figured it reads the can bus. and sure enough, it looks like it taps CAN IHS (+) and CAN IHS (-). Very cool that it would get into the whole bus and read anything- BUT since there are other FCA vehicles that don't auto-switch inputs on revers and they have alternate connections it seems the real dev is not involved to update things to sniff for other reverse signals. Reading around here- seems that there is probably a custom serial port someplace in the box that reads this and there's probably no documentation for us to do anything ourselves. But one can hope...
---------- Post added at 06:12 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:07 PM ----------
michaelk said:
glad to hear i'm not going crazy with the clock but there is an issue.
I just bought and installed a V4 a couple weeks back too.
i must have left a loose connection cause i keep having to recall the touchscreen for android. I half-arsed the install cause we were leaving for a 2k mile roadtrip the next day- need to take it apart and do it right. Luckily you can connect a usb mouse in to trigger the calibration app.
id also love root- at the moment im trying to figure out if the one usb port is safe to connect an A to A usb cable into to get ADB. apparently on some versions of nvida sheild, you can. If they provide a firmware update for the clock fix then maybe that gets us an image to futz with for root.
a keyboard also works in teh usb port and i've tried a handful of key combos during boot to get to recovery but haven't stumbled on it yet.
I'll post back if i find anything
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So the spec for the chipset for the V4 says it can handle an OTG port and a couple (maybe 3?) other USB ports. Obviously, the box only has the one USB A port visible on the pigtail. I wish we could get in the box and look for a header for the OTG port to help rooting but.... the darn warranty sticker.
on the FCA/Dodge side of things- I have a Durango with a USB port and SD card reader in the dash (USB Media "Hub" Apparently, FCA uses USB Mini B connectors to interconnect all the ports and the radio. They use latching connectors that are keyed but if you undo them there's a standard USB mini B in there. They do some odd male/female things so you have to pay attention to where you undo cables, but bottom line you can undo the connector on the back of the dash's USB port and stuff a USB mini B female on it and connect it to whatever host device you want.
I first tried an old laptop in case there's anything weird going on. My Dash "Hub" actually has 2 mini-B connectors and a multipin auto harness. Without the harness when you connect it to windows it sees a USB Hub, but the USB port was still dead. So I assumed it needs power from the harness on the back of the dash hub and connected that. UP popped up a USB mass storage device which I believe is the SD card reader- didn't get around to confirming and then the USB port also comes to life. Knowing that it was safe at that point I connected it to the USB A Host port on the box and presto chango now I have the in-dash port connected to the android tv box without any exposed wiring.
Connected the "android auto dongle" through the cars USB port and that works perfectly. I ordered a used 2 USB dash hub from eBay (later model years have 2 and will see what that does. The pictures of that also show the 2 mini B ports- I'll play some more when I get that. I'm not sure what is in those dongles but from the other folks hacking android auto into older models (by using newer radios) apparently, one port works for android auto and the other doesn't. The scuttle is its a body module programming thing but I wonder if maybe there's something physical in there and so the dongle won't be necessary any longer with the new hub? My other thought is if the two USB min B jacks allow you to connect to 2 different hosts- I would try one on the original Uconnect (in case I ever need to update the software) and the other for the android TV box.
So apparently the android tv box handles hubs just fine. As I mentioned earlier it handles a mouse or USB keyboard fine. Also, I played around and connected my hotspot by USB instead of wifi so the device sees it as a modem and that works just fine- so I assume a USB modem works out of the box too. (again odd if that works that carperformance sells a hotspot and not USB modem- like they don't know what the box can do)

I disassembled my display 2 times until it worked. After the first start, I had a black screen. I thought that was it... After 3 times it finally worked. I also had a cable on the plug which has easily resolved. I think you will also have a loose contact somewhere. One time I also had the display calibration gone. Then I connected my old usb keyboard and could then start the display calibration. I reset the system before. So far, the system works without problems. I also have a passive 4-way usb hub to connect.
I have already connected cables for the frontcam but have not yet moved into the engine compartment.
In the video tutorial of Carperformance, you can see when you switch to drive, the display then changes to the frontcam or signal from the cam, but the display does not change to the Frontcam signal with me.
Do you have with you the signal on the display of the camera when switching to drive?

Adw2 = bad mix
Went back and forth many times in email and turns out my calibration issue was probably all ADW2 launcher, guess it conflicts with whatever app they use to communicate with the display.
in the process of troubleshooting I got the update zip for the current version but I don't think those have recovery partition in there and so can't help root? I need to read some more.
I've ripped everything apart like 12 times with the screen, so that my front cam is not connected right now. For the brief time I had it, it was connected to one of the smaller video in pin connectors and don't think it worked in drive by itself, but can't really say for certain. I think certain models can't get the canbus command to see reverse and if I understand they connect in to the video in on the main connector and then use a point on the car that is energized to trigger the switch on that connection. If your adventurous they seem to have to flip a dip also. I think it's the Cherokees or maybe grand Cherokee so maybe Google their thread's? This site gives connector pin outs
http://connectors.dcctools.com/home.htm
There might be a lead for the drive on your shifter if lucky. I think I read the reverse shoulder comes from a body control box in the passenger wheel well?
Also they're super friendly and never wrong when you email but they can be brief. So you could ask if there's a dipswitch to flip to enable auto switching one of the inputs. Hec maybe we should just ask for a table of where the dips do...
(Sorry for any typos... Will try to edit later)

Supposedly it is enough to connect the extra input cable for DVD or CMMB. That answered me Carperformance. Before, I had no external input cable connected. That's why no signal came. The OEM rearcam works flawlessly.

Also, I forgot, they have a workaround for the clock bug
For the clock there is a fix
https://www.youtube.com/watchv=3OEEbah53QY&t=1s

michaelk said:
Also, I forgot, they have a workaround for the clock bug
For the clock there is a fix
https://www.youtube.com/watchv=3OEEbah53QY&t=1s
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Click to collapse
Unfortunately it's not available.

Diabollon said:
Unfortunately it's not available.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
try this-
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3OEEbah53QY&t=1s

michaelk said:
try this-
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3OEEbah53QY&t=1s
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's a cheaper fix but so no solution. Carperformance should offer a software update with root access. Then we would be satisfied. We should expect it for the money.
My frontcam is working now good.
You already tried Android auto? Which USB dongle do you use? Do you need a special app for this?
My China usb dongle does not want to connect properly with my oneplus 6T.
Edit:
Android auto is working with Pumpkin USB dongle and autoplaybox app. The noname China scrap goes back to shop.
The time fix is working until now also. Thanks for this info. The carperformance, they wrote or informed the affected people who ordered it. I did not get any info.

Diabollon said:
...
My frontcam is working now good.
...
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Click to collapse
besides powering your camera and connecting the yellow RCA video signal did you have to do anything else?
something with the red signal wire maybe?
I cant consistently get a signal on my front cam and not sure if the camera is bad or my setup
---------- Post added at 12:55 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:42 PM ----------
few other notes for others-
FCA "aux audio device detect signal" harness line is actually normally closed (I think shorted to ground)- if you break the connection the oew radio flips right to aux in. make the connection again and it flips back to previous input.
the in dash usb port is infact a powered hub. I originally had a usb + SD card combo and replaced it with 2 usb port and works fine. FCA uses mini b connections to it- just use a usb a to mini b cable to connect it to the android auto box and your indash usb port(s) will work on android auto (And provide more watts to charge your stuff). oddly either dahs hub has a second usb mini b connector that i played around with a little but never could figure out what it does
more can bus fun! - i updated the dongle firmware on the android auto dongle sold direct from carperforance and now it has a beta feature to map buttons. somehow it seems to be sniffing the canbus through the android tv box. it has arrow keys, numbers, enter, etc and you use the app to select the input to assign then you press the same button on the car twice- it sniffs the signal and assignes it. I My durango has the button packs on the steering wheel and i was able to assign up, down, left, right and get it to have the android auto respond. Need to play more but i think it actually goes android wide. For example i think the down button on my steering wheel was sending page down to the chrome browser i had open on the box. Pretty cool stuff if they expand that.

PX5 stuck showing warning image, buttons unresponsive.

I just bought a PX5 unit, which seemed to be working perfectly until I finished installing it into my car and now it has become unresponsive with a black screen and a yellow rhombus with an exclamation point in the middle (unable to upload image as new user).
If I turn off the ignition, it will turn the stereo off and the android screen briefly shows before going into sleep. None of the buttons are allowing me to get past the screen and in to android. The reset button seems to do nothing, android is definitely running in the background, just unsure as to why this screen will not close. Any ideas?

Hi, I think I saw a yellow rhombus with an exclamation point when I was installing my radio and rear view camera was not connected to the radio. I think that it is a warning about missing video signal when radio is displaying live feed from a rear view camera.
So, one explanation for your issue could be that the radio thinks you are reversing, and the rear view camera is not connected to the radio. If I understand it right, radio can switch to rear view camera display mode based on two conditions 1) canbus information 2) +12v trigger signal.
For the condition 2), you could check that nothing is unintentional connected to reverse detect wire. If that does not help, then you could perhaps try to disable reverse view feature in the configuration menu before installing the radio to the car and/or find a working canbus configuration settings.
Please notice that I'm a beginner with Android head units and your problem might well be something totally different!!

Thanks for your reply. Some of your post seems to relate to my issue definitely, I think it is linked to the rear view camera which is currently disconnected. However I am unable to get into any configuration options. None of the buttons/resets I try get me past the exclamation screen, I can only see android once I turn off my ignition when it tells me it is closing down. None of the various reset button combinations seem to do anything with my head unit either, can't seem to reset it properly. Its strange, I will reattach the camera tomorrow and see if that brings any joy. I don't know anything about this stuff myself but I am wondering if I did something to the head unit to brick the non-android side somehow.
Edit: Unfortunately reattaching the camera did not change anything.

Update. I have managed to find a way in to the Android side if I connect my phone via bluetooth to the stereo, it then lets me use the split screen function via the top bar menu to put the warning screen other screen to the side, however whenever I touch the screen or attempt to use the android interface, my stereo goes back to the warning screen, none of my inputs via the stereo buttons or the touch screen seem to be registering with the Android side? Very confused. I have also tried as many button combination resets I can find and I have not been able to successfully get into the recovery menu, or any change except rebooting.

Was your unit professionally installed?
Also, what did the re-seller suggest when you contacted them for support?

No the unit was not professionally installed. I am not sure how I've become stuck with the problem. I made some minor changes in factory settings but nothing I thought would of caused this. The seller is yet to respond and its been a couple of days, but I have requested the hardware reset methods for this unit or any other solutions.

deano35 said:
No the unit was not professionally installed. I am not sure how I've become stuck with the problem. I made some minor changes in factory settings but nothing I thought would of caused this. The seller is yet to respond and its been a couple of days, but I have requested the hardware reset methods for this unit or any other solutions.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Check the reverse wire on the back of the unit...if necessary disconnect it to ensure no reverse signal is received.
If your unit can boot into android normally then you will have to figure out why the reverse wire is receiving signal .
Check your connectors to avoid any of them to be loose.
Enviado desde mi SM-G950F mediante Tapatalk

Everything has been disconnected from the unit except the power cable to car and and canbus, from what I can tell nothing is loose. Unit will not boot without the canbus box whatsoever, not sure if that is meant to happen.

deano35 said:
Everything has been disconnected from the unit except the power cable to car and and canbus, from what I can tell nothing is loose. Unit will not boot without the canbus box whatsoever, not sure if that is meant to happen.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, canbus decoder need to be connected for power up the HU. If you dont need the decoder box you need rewire the harness.

I think I am going to have to request a refund and return it. Still no reply from the reseller and I am not sure what else I can try, everything that is not needed to power it has now been removed. I can't send links or else I would update the thread with a video of the touch/physical buttons being completely unresponsive even when I manage to get to Android. The unit has definitely developed a fault and I am unable to reset it. Admittedly it could be my fault somehow as it was working for the first few boots, but unless they give me something to try I am just going to have to send it back.

Quick bump. Has anyone got any further ideas? I bought off Aliexpress so contact with the seller is slow and painful, they do not seem to understand the issue and just keep telling me to disconnect all wires and reconnect. Which has been done many times. If anyone wants to post a link to the video for me I would be happy to send them it privately.

deano35 said:
Quick bump. Has anyone got any further ideas? I bought off Aliexpress so contact with the seller is slow and painful, they do not seem to understand the issue and just keep telling me to disconnect all wires and reconnect. Which has been done many times. If anyone wants to post a link to the video for me I would be happy to send them it privately.
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Click to collapse
I would start a dispute with them. I had a device that they sent with similar problems and plenty of issues, which they would not help with or would not understand. Best option is to dispute to get a new device or a full refund. Could you send the video?

xLeviNx said:
I would start a dispute with them. I had a device that they sent with similar problems and plenty of issues, which they would not help with or would not understand. Best option is to dispute to get a new device or a full refund. Could you send the video?
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Click to collapse
Yeh I have a dispute open currently, just was hoping it would inspire the seller to actually offer up a working way of resetting the device. Had to add link below seperately as needed to be ten or most posts.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ujHacKESAT8&feature=youtu.be
The stereo defaults as the warning image black screen and I can only get android up using the multiwindow button with a long press. Then the android side will not register any input and will keep trying to put the black screen to the front.

Update: I have been told by Aliexpress I can have a partial refund and keep the unit, or a full refund if I return to China. Anyone have any ideas how I would go about resetting the unit if I took the partial refund? To be honest I think my only option is to return it and get the full amount back but any ideas would be welcome! Shipping to China and awaiting a refund is going to take weeks, would rather just get it working if possible.

deano35: any progres? I have the same problem as you. This is my post from PX5 MTCD/E Head Unit Discussion Thread
" Hi , I have https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/DtwdJIt its px5, Mtce_gs_v2.90c. Now I have a little problem with rear camera. I bought reverse camera and tried to connect it into front camera input(I was curious how it would look like) and since then its stuck on camera view. Even after disconnecting camera. Only solution was disable "prohibit reverse" in factory settings menu, but with "prohibit reverse" disabled is obviously not showing reverse camera when I gear the reverse down. Everything is shown in this video. https://photos.app.goo.gl/XbYUHApzT8qTezkq6 Thanks for any advice. "
Take a look on the video, its similar as yours.