Related
I am attempting to house an i-mate PDA2 in a custom enclosure (for a product that we make). I want to modify the 22 pin connector on the sync/power cable but I cannot find a pinout.
I need a picture or diagram of the 3, or is it 4, rows of pins with pin numbers, pin function and connector wiring (jumpers, etc.)
Anyone know where I might find this?
Before you get crushed by the "rtfm" type posts, I humbly direct your attention to the "connectors" link on the front page of this site, which will lead you to: http://wiki.xda-developers.com/wiki/Connectors. It's an extremely useful page!
OK, I told you so now you tell me; what're you guys making?!
I did check out the "connectors" page and it is helpful.
However, what I am looking for are details of the inside of the cable connector. I took one of these connectors apart and it's not the easiest thing in the world to figure out which pin goes to which on the PDA side or what the number system is.
So, it would be very helpful to know if someone has already gone through the unravelling.
In a nutshell, our company has developed a technology that uses ultrasonics to measure load in bolts both during and after tightening. The PDA is the platform for the controller of the tightening and inspection tools.
Sorry, I assumed that you'd not looked at the connectors page because I used it to figure out (I think) what it is you're after when I was trying to make my own sync/charge/gps connector.
If this is something that you can't resolve with a multimeter, then I guess you must be looking at an interesting connector! I'd suggest posting a couple of pics of the connector with it's top off lined up with the phone's socket. That'll make it easier to figure out what's what!
The load detector sounds cool, I'd love to see a screenshot if you've got one.
Yes, it can be resolved with a multimeter - I was just looking for the lazy way out!
I have attached a photo of the prototype unit - not the most professional representation, but a decent one nonetheless.
That looks cool! I love it when people *really* use these things.
If you open the connector up and see 2 (staggered) rows of tiny, really hard to solder :lol: pins, pin 1 (left side of the phone connector if you hold it bottom towards you, screen up) is the bottom left pin.
_| | | | | | | | | | |
| | | | | | | | | | |_
^ bottom left is pin 1. Hope this helps, sorry I had to bath the baby earlier and was typing whilst holding a somewhat sticky little girl
Thank you!
Subject: PDA2 sync/power cable connector pinout
On this thread, I was thinking of using the desktop cradle as the base for a mobile mount.
But the pin-outs for the PDA2k are not easily found.
The connector link now appears to be at:
http://wiki.xda-developers.com/index.php?pagename=Connectors
This page seems only to refer to the Wallaby and the Himalaya.
Is there a specific page for the PDA2k or does anyone know if the pin-outs of the 22 pin connector are the same for the Wallaby/Himalaya as they are for the PDA2k?
-I found elsewhere that Pin 19 was different.
Are there any other differences?
Also somewhere amongst the threads there was a mention of the pin-outs of the 2.5mm audio out /mic in was different or was it the switch on the hands free headset?
I have trawlled the site and it has eluded me so far for a consiolidated posting on the connectors for the PDA2k.
Can anyone point me in the right direction?
Perhaps I am just deluding myself
Thanks in advance
If you lost your marbles, would you know where to find them?
harrier mounts and connectors
I wouldn't use the desk cradle to make a car mount. IMO the car mount from Clicon (www.clicon.com.au) is better mechanically than the desk cradle, and already suited to vehicle mounting
There are a number of variants of their kits, but not many that suit my pda2k-evdo. The ones that do suit are:
- plain cradle with no connectors, but leaving the pda2k connector exposed and accessible
- plain cradle with "passthrough" connector - so connect your own charger etc to the bottom of it. Note that this passthrough doesn't support the two lugs that some pda2k plugs have (eg the charging dongle that came with the pda2k-evdo)
- cradle with lighter-socket charger. The charger part is actually removeable; they've just screwed the car charger to the cradle.
The lighter-socket charger mentioned above has a small board inside the connector with Tx and Rx holes labelled. It looks like it was designed for making a serial+charge adaptor.
I have a separate RS232+charger adaptor cable ("suits XDA IIs") which looks like it's charging, but really just keeps the screen on and runs down the battery quicker. It turns out it only has one V+ and one Gnd pin connected, as opposed to 3 of each listed on the Connector page on this site. Makes me wonder whether the 3 pins for V+ actually all have the same function. Time to mod the connector...
Gregnash,
I agree with your summary,
and I have looked at the available in car cradles/holders.
I have already ported a XDA1 cradel with audio/mic,USB and power to see if the connections can be done successfully.
All worked except for the mic as I need to find a 4 polo 2.5mm panel socket so that it switches on hook.(this I assume is pin 19)
You are right, by itself the Harrier cradle does not securely hold the pda in place as there is lateral movement.
What I am trying to achieve is a "all in one" in car cradle/holder.
I have sucessfully mounted a NOKIA passive anennae connector to a stand alone generic brand pda holder.
This as you said allows the connector to be exposed for charging.
I have used this method with a 9db external (old analogue antenna-funny that, you can use them for CDMA) antenna or a 9 db through glass antenna.
Currently the system is clumsy as also I run a bluetooth external GPS and route the audio from the 2.5mm socket to the cassette player adapter.
-(no audio IN in this car radio)
What I was hoping to do was to incorporate the Nokia Passive antenna coupler at the rear of the Harrier cradle which would put slight pressure in the forwards direction to both make an antenna connection and more secure and stop the Harrier from moving.
(Another flash idea is to strip the inductance plate from the coupler and mount a antenna cable socket on the coupler face so that it aligns with the antenna out from the Harrier)
With the audio out /mic in and charge through this connector , I am hoping to eliminate all of the wiring as I can conceal the wiring back inside the dash.
The only other thing is the on hook switch for receiving calls.
As you can probably guess I probably have too much spare time.
Perhaps Bluetooth In car kit will by-pass the need for the physical connectors as it is software driven.
But I have heard of so many bad reports of BT connecting to the phone that it appears to be pot luck if I find one that works.
What about this arrangement:
1. Harrier cradle -with antenna coupler if secure,
2. bluetooth in car (cigarette lighter style) hands free-Blue Ant etc,
3. audio out from cradle to radio ( for GPS instructions and playing mp3 from Harrier) freq transmitter(powered externally).
4. bluetooth GPS external antenna
mmmm..... maybe a bit of an ask but it does allow a "drop on cradle ,push forwards to engage antenna and forget" action.
Maybe I am off with the fairies, what do you think?
Any comments would be appreciated.
For antenna supplies you can try this site http://www.wpsantennas.com/ basically I think it would boost reception back to 3 watts. 3 watts is the same wattage as the old car mounted mobile phones. Mobile phones operate on 0.5 watts. No wonder our reception sucks in so many places.
Hook the antenna into a car cradle and some type of handsfreee switch for the radio, and you have a very powerful, very mobile 3 watt mobile phone with great reception.. if you got carried away you could even connect your car to the ppc and moniter engine, fuel, etc. Plus a GPS.. and oh the possibilties are endless.
Johnno's ambitious car kit
Yeah, I think you do have too much time on your hands
Sounds like a plan, though, and I'd like to know if you make it all work. The antenna couplers I've seen take a bit too much force for a "drop in, push back" arrangement, but one designed for a different phone may do the trick if it fits.
btw, my interest in serial is for wired GPS and to talk to the engine management computer (not at the same time, or one will have to be bluetooth). Even better if they can be powered from the same cable.
dougnet
Thanks for the link.
I actually had thought of this proposal.
I actually contacted tht crowd (amongst others) about two months ago as I was thinking the same as you.
They answered that they are not allowed to export GSM or CDMA amplifiers to Australia.
I think it might be that new "Free Trade Agreement and respecting our telcos" we now have with the US where things are not really "FREE".
Probabably if I asked 12 months ago it might not have been a problem.
Nice products.
Trouble with Antenna couplers , is that you lose at least 1.2db + in the cconnection.
You you really need a grunty antenna or output.
".. if you got carried away you could even connect your car to the ppc and moniter engine, fuel, etc. Plus a GPS.. and oh the possibilties are endless. "
Now I have an automatic car so rev monitoring would certainly be overkill.
I get your drift, though thanks for the input.
gregnash
I will have to see how much force is needed to engage the pda.
Don't forget that at least the same force will be needed to disengage it as well.
Mmmm...good point, this means seeing whether a panel mount socket is available in this cofig.
Wouldn't have a clue who might sell panel mount sockets suitable for the Harrier/Blue Angel?
I am not sure how a cable termination would cope with the forces needed.
The fixing method would have to be substantial.
Serial connections to the car comp?
You would probably need to hack the code to get access to it I suppose?
But if you could tap into the on-board engine management computer, then you could change the air to fuel ratio at the injectors and lots of other cool things like disengage my engine cut-out at 190k/per hour and have some real fun!!!
Not much fun at 190K/h and the engine stops-no brakes, no steer!!!
Must be for the rev heads-NOT ME!
I will investigate the force on the antenna connector to see if this is feasable to mount.
I will let you know what I find.
Hi all.
Thanks for the encouragement.
Well life is full of compromises!
So long as you do not require audio output and you are happy with the Harriers speakerphone volume, I think I have a home solution for the uninitiated.
1. I have a "generic brand mobile phone holder-one of those adjustable in width ones- full width just held the Harrier nice and snug.
2. To this I mounted at the bottom (after removing the locking latches)
a USB car charger cable -with no modifications.
-Actually I pop rivetted the backing shell to the holder.
3. I then mounted a Nokia a passive antenna coupler and sculptured the holder-so that it fits at the right height and to the left of the Harrier.(where the antennae is on the Harrier)
4. I then mounted the holder onto the dash of the car (my choice as I put it though a removable panel where a digital clock is fitted in an other model, and passed the antenna cable,and the charger cable to a cavity in the dash.
5. Here I supplied a cigarette socket with 12 volts and connected the charger cable.
What I ended up with was a car mount that was a "drop in" style that
was easy to build without any fiddly soldering of connector pins.
I actually did make it with USB and audio out but these were surperflous as at the moment I do not have an audio in for my car radio or an amp to drive it.
But I just wanted to see if it could be done.
This is why in the picture you can see electrical tape around the cabling.
(This is because I had USB,Audio out and Car charger cable.)
Once you have this type of holder, it is not hard to get a new holder and move only the antenna coupler across ( I would think that the new connector would be different from the Harrier)when you upgrade to a new PDA.
In summary:
Compromise 1.
1.2db loss at antenna coupler-using 9db external antennae so I can live with that.- but no nasty "push to connect" hassles.
Compromise 2.
Audio out does work but the level is so low that it needs good amplification , this I will not follow up until I get a car radio with audio in.
Rely on Speakerphone fore the time being.
I hope this is of help to those thinking of this kind of project.
I hope the picture is reasonably self explanitary.
If you have any questions just let me know.
:?: I need a cable to connect to the phone antenna ports on the device - the port is smaller than the ones to be found on some mobiles (such as my old trusty Nokia 6310i) and I need to find out what type of connector is needed.
Does anyone know where a cable can be obtained or what type of connector is needed ?
I need a connector also
It took me weeks to find the special connector for my XDAII. Now I'm in the same boat for the Universal (JASJAR). I've been searching the net for a while to no avail, but hopefully I find one soon and let us know. :?
Sorry just too lazy to go through the manual so decided to ask the enlightened friends on this forum. I want to know if the antenna socket provided at the back of the Universal is for GSM signals. The GSM signal in my home room is too weak so I thought that attaching an external antenna would be beneficial to the strength of the GSM signal. But obviously even if it is so attaching an antenna would be possible only once we have found a suitable connector.
Kind Regards
I mounted an antenna outside my house
For the last 2 years (with my XDAII) I've used an antenna I ran through my outside brickwall and mounted outside my house. It helped the phone go from NO reception to a pretty good signal. I still have the cable running to my office/desk and all I need now is the connector. It has to be out there somewhere. I ended up buying my previous connector from http://digikey.com, but it ended up costing $30 ... but it was worth it. I'll do more digging today and see if I can find out more.
Oh and by the way, I was using GSM on my XDAII and the manual for the Universal says the connector (closest to the center or USB) is for GSM/GPRS.
Anyone find out what adapter fits the jasjar? My adapter for the pda2k does not fit.
I'm still looking
I've sent emails to PDAGold, HTC in Taiwan and i-Mate to not avail. I'm going to keep on looking. Obviously someone has to know.
Some progress - I've found out the connector type
The connector on the phone is a Amphenol MHC-H196.
I've posted a pdf with all the specifications of the connector on the circuit board ... http://wiki.xda-developers.com/uploads/MHCH196.pdf
Now it's just a matter of finding the correct adapter.
Well I gave up trying to find one and made my own
After spending many hours looking and getting an official "not available" from digikey.com (who I got my XDAII adapter from) and imate techsupport ... I decided to make my own. I haven't been able to test it with my Jasjar yet, though, since it's still being repaired at Topp Solutions in Miami.
I ended up using 26 gage solid wire (which is .4mm diameter) and a .062 inch (1.6mm) diameter female pin connector. This is smaller than the diameter of the connector on the phone, which is actually 1.82mm. Although, I expect it to expand slightly (permanently) when it's slid over the connector on the phone. Obviously, it's very crude for now. I just want to see if it works then I might make a prettier one. I included some pictures for fun. By the way this cost me about $9 in material (which I can use for other projects) vs. $35 for the last adapter I bought for my XDAII through Digikey.
From down under , land of long white cloud...
We have had the same issue ( product known as Jas jar)
My user name in this forum is Digs also, see our discussion :
REF: http://www.geekzone.co.nz/forums.asp?ForumId=18&TopicId=7105
Did you see the interesting comments made by WilsonsElectronics. HTC really stuffed up with this one.
Is there any news on this matter.
At the moment I have sent an information pack to www.pasternack.com and I am currently waiting for a response. These people do customised products. See under technical support. I will keep you friends informed.
http://www.pasternack.com/ContactUs/ContactInformation.asp
I am after an adapter to get a signal booster... www.digitalantenna.com
I talked to them about three products. there email follows
Description Part Number List Price
60dB gain repeater system 4KSBR-50U $699.95
40dB gain repeater system 4KMR-30U $559.95
Direct Connect Amplifier DA4000 $299.95
DA4000:
The DA4000 amplifier must be purchased with an antenna and cell adapter cable and is a direct-connect system. The antenna is placed on the roof and connects to the inside amplifier which with the correct adapter would then connect to the cellular device. We have many adapters for different phones and air cards. If we do not have the adapter for your type of phone or air card the other option is a wireless repeater. However the direct-connect amplifier can provide higher performance because you are directly connected to it. Please use the link at the bottom of this email to download our 2006 on-line catalog. On page 28/29 is our Cell Adapter Cables which lists the adapters per make/model of cellular phone or PC card.
Description Part Number List Price
Direct Connect Amp. DA4000 $299.95
9dB cell antenna 288-PW $129.95
Cable 340-50NM $79.95
Adapter Cable pg 28/29 $19.95
4KSBR-50U:
The 4KSBR-50U system comes with an external antenna, 50' cable, amplifier/repeater, power supply and an internal antenna. So the external antenna can be installed on the roof with the cable going to the amplifier/repeater inside the house. The internal antenna is also plugged into the amplifier/repeater and is installed inside the house. There must be 40' separation and a wall/roof/bulkhead structure between inside and outside antennas.
With a good cellular signal outside the house the 4KSBR-50U system can reach as far as 40 feet from the internal antenna. Generally the SBR can penetrate 1 or 2 inside walls only and each wall will reduce the 40 feet coverage. Also keep in mind the weaker the outside signal the closer you will need to be to the inside antenna. The 4KSBR-50U system must have a signal that is at or greater than -90db to be able to amplify/repeat it.
4KMR-30U:
The 4KMR-30U, 40dB gain dual band cellular repeater system, comes with an external antenna, 30' cable, amplifier/repeater, power supply and an internal antenna. So the external antenna can be installed on the roof with the cable going to the amplifier/repeater inside the house. The internal antenna is also plugged into the amplifier/repeater and is installed inside the house. There must be 20' separation and a wall/roof/bulkhead structure between inside and outside antennas.
With a good cellular signal outside the house the 4KMR-30U system can reach as far as approximately 18 feet from the internal antenna but will not penetrate walls. Also keep in mind the weaker the outside signal the closer you will need to be to the inside antenna. The 4KMR-30U system must have a signal that is at or greater than -90db to be able to amplify/repeat it.
Try here for antennae and adaptors
I haven't checked this very far yet but the picture seems to match...
http://www.boatersphone.com/PDAs.asp[/url]
More detail...at : http://www.boatersphone.com/Adapters.asp
Its the Nokia 359914 Multi Manufacture Cell Phone adpater, You stick a velco thing on your phone next to the internal adapter, and slide the nokia adapter into it. This is NOT a direct plug in into the External GSM jack of the HTC Universal device ( ie Jas Jar ). But looks like our only safe option. Not sure how the velcro thing goes on the device, the Jas Jar has a plastic back ( over the battery )???
Works on these networks, the site says : 900MHz/1800MHz/1900MHz/2100MHz networks
..."This is an extremely effective new kind of adapter, it works on a similar rinciple to the clip-on adapter, with the exception that it is tuned to work on more frequencies. We have tested it on all UK frequencies including 3G, and we know it works on the American 1900MHz band as well! This adapter was originally designed to work on Nokias but we have successfully used it on other makes of phones, making this a (hopefully!) truly universal adapter. It will work on 'candy-bar' style phones which have an internal antenna.
This adapter is two-piece, one piece is a velcro pad which has sticky-back plastic on it, and sticks onto the back of the phone over the internal antenna. The second piece is the adapter itself, which has velcro over the inductive plate, so it can be easily removed, and has a lead so it can be connected to an external antenna. '...
Where did you get the Information that it's a velcro adaptor?
reading the Page it says:
Plug-In Adaptor for O2 XDA Exec
More details about plug-in adaptor in general:
This kind adapter is called a plug-in adapter, for the simple reason that what it does is plug straight into the port on the back of the phone, and provides a cable connection to the antenna.
The plug-in adapter is preferred to the clip-on adpter, as it works on any mobile network.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I wrote them an email i'll keep you informed.
If you can get a plug in one then fine, but further down the page is where I get my info from. I highlighted in bold, just in case you cant see good.(Ha).
I'll bet the Jas Jar gets allocated the valcro one. As my experience is that its very difficult to find a plug one for the Jas Jar /O2 Exec.
Although I learly can read your bold text and being able to find this on on the page i really have no clue where you find the connection between the velco apdator and the O2 XDA Exec since it's marked with plug-in adaptor. Well we will see.
My apologies, yes "Plug-in Adapters", for "XDA, XDA II, XDA IIs, XDA Exec "..
BUT be carefull, the GSM external jack is very weak as per Wilson Electronic comments. Post me any confirmations of the plug in adapter working.
'Universal' adapters that apparently plug in
Their News page has a paragraph that describes a new adapter for various flavours of the Universal (although calling it Wizard to add to the confusion!) and warns against plugging in incompatible adapters. The adapters page lists the HTC devices under 'Plug-In' not 'Clip-on'. So that's why I posted.
I sent an Email after posting here, but it sounds like they are a small outfit so be patient!
Be careful with making adapters for transmitting antennae. For receiving antennae you can get away with almost anything, but for a transmitter a bad match on a connector will create reflections and emissions; it might even damage the transmitter (don't know if that's a problem here). If you don't see a clear increase on the reception bars with a well placed antenna, the adapter may be sending all the power straight back, doubling the voltage at the transmitter. Make sure everything is matched to 50R.
Nick (gave up my amateur radio license long ago since long hours in the loft didn't fit with married life!) :wink:
Reply from 'Boatersphone'
Can you do an adaptor from the obscure Amphenol MHCH196 socket on the HTC Universal Windows PDA phone? (XDA Exec, MDA Pro etc.). Presumably the other end is an FME f connector for the 'standard' phone antennas. Or alternatively the other end is a portable (non-mounted) antenna on 1800/2100MHz.
Many thanks
+++
Hello,
Yes we have an adapter to connect the HTC Universal to one of our antennae and you are correct about the FME F connection. We don't supply an adapter direct to an antennae, only in a two-part system via an FME connection, to allow for changing of either part.
If you require a portable antenna we have a 3G/Multiband antenna with a magnetic base (on 850/900/1800/1900/2100MHz frequencies) or we have a T-bar window antenna, which is 3G/Triband, although this doesn't produce as good results as the magnetic antenna.
Regards,
Arthur @ BPC
Any news? they don't seem to answer anymore. I wrote him two times. Anybody in contact with him?
Messing about in Boats
They advise to be patient, I bet we've flooded them with enquiries and they quote two days to reply!
Hello,
i want to connect external wifi antenna to S620 and i need some small help with that.
I dismantled the phone and removed shields from all ICs.
On picture 2 and 3 are Texas Instruments WiFi chips.
On picture 1 is other side of the board, with some metal piece and connector, which might be external wifi connector.
The connector is at opposite side in left bottom corner if you look at image 2, between PASS sticker and mounting hole, at the corner of large PCB ground pole.
Is that metal piece integrated antenna?
That connector is probably not U.FL.
Anyone know what type of connector is that?
Thanks.
Not sure but follow the link below for the service manual, it may give you some insight:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=402998&highlight=service+manual
if you managed tu connect it, let us know everything...
hope you can do it succesfully!!!
Ok, so i looked at the service manual, the connector is diagnostic (RF measurement) type, with switch.
MM8430-2600RA1
Probably will be in all HTC devices. So i will try to search on the forum, if anybody done this on different phone.
See page 9 and 10 for switch schematics and pinout
http://www.murata.com/catalog/o30e8.pdf
There are "probe" cables for it, but the probe connector is too big to hide under the cover.
I have a friend with experience with SMD, so i asked him if he can desolder it and solder pigtail with RSMA.
Cable can be taken out of the phone by using free space around hole which covers the GSM antenna connector.
I verified that by putting the cable in and closing the phone.
I also tried to hold stripped cable on the connector, with attached directional antenna and i picked up the APs in that direction, so it is working. (and really well)
The problem is that ground poles of the connector maybe connects ground to the power button, so after desoldering, it might not be possible to turn it on...
The safe way can be removing that piece of metal (yes, it is wifi antenna) and solder pigtail instead of it.
It should be simple, because under it are only two "paths" in PCB.
However, the best way is probably to solder it on opposite side, there is a PCB path from Wifi chips, going through the PCB, ending on middle pin of the connector.
But that cannot be done, because there is no way how to get the cable out of the phone.
I still prefer desoldering the connector, because it is placed "before" the antenna, so connecting it there would give a bit better results.
Edit: i searched the forum a bit, but all i found is service manual for Diamond, which seems to have U.FL connector. But i will not buy it because of that, only maybe when it will cost 80 USD like S620.
does anyone know the 'official' name of this type of GSM connector?
the picture is here: tinyurl.com/yga76ot
(sorry, but I can't paste any links in this message)
I would like to buy external GSM antenna, but I don't know what is the name of this connector / connection.
thanks in advance for any suggestions.
btw, did anyone try to instal any external wifi antenna / wifi antenna connection?
regards!
Hi,
I've never tried any external antenna.
I've found the inbuild antenna's to be sufficient, sorry.
You can google for it or for instance have a look at:
expansys-usa.com/d.aspx?i=147380
BTW: Your photo shows the 'left' external antenna connector.
This is not the external GPS antenna connector!
You need the 'right' one for this purpose , labelled GPS.
Goodluck
Fred
Does anyone know what exact frequencies Sprint uses for Wimax ?
I made an external antenna port on my Evo, now it's time to make an external antenna itself
I'm seeing 2.5 GHz, I will look for continue to look for specifics
Wikipedia has a huge write up on WiMAX. I'm not sure the exact information your looking for, but under the technical information section, they pretty much give you everything.
Thank you
I know the theoretical range of Wimax, would be nice to know what frequencies people are seeing.
Does anyone know if in ##DATA#, Center Frequency is an actual freuqency phone uses to connect ? (Here are the values:* 2647000, 2657000, 2667000 I would assume it's 2.647Ghz/2.657Ghz/2.667Ghz) ?
However, if I go into ##33284# (FieldTrial / Wimax Engineering) it's* 2551500 for Center Frequency (after turning 4G Radio)
Anyone cares to share their ##DATA# and FieldTrial / Wimax Engineering ##33284# center frequencies ? I just want to see how much variation there is.
Its important to get as close to right frequency as possible when calculating segment length on antenna.
I am showing 2.525Ghz with the bandwidth of 10Mhz. What type of antenna are you going to use? I hope you have access to a Service Monitor to check the SWR of your antenna. How are you connecting the antenna to the phone?
Thank you for sharing kf2m
I am going to build omni-directional antenna based on this design (but from thicker cable)
_www.rason.org/Projects/collant/collant.htm
Unfortunately I do not have any equipment to check SWR.
As far as connecting an antenna to the phone, I've made a slight cut out on red cover where 4G antenna terminals are and attached small connector for center wire of coax cable to the terminals (I do not know about what to do with ground, but let's see if I get away without it). Black cover closes normally, without showing any modifications externally.
I will share results after the weekend, whether it's a success or fail
Sounds interesting. I haven't seen anything like this for the Evo. Please keep the thread updated, and if all works maybe a write-up?
~ I'm a fungi
arch111 said:
Thank you for sharing kf2m
I am going to build omni-directional antenna based on this design (but from thicker cable)
_www.rason.org/Projects/collant/collant.htm
Unfortunately I do not have any equipment to check SWR.
As far as connecting an antenna to the phone, I've made a slight cut out on red cover where 4G antenna terminals are and attached small connector for center wire of coax cable to the terminals (I do not know about what to do with ground, but let's see if I get away without it). Black cover closes normally, without showing any modifications externally.
I will share results after the weekend, whether it's a success or fail
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That antenna is gonna be hot with common mode RF (hence the BALUM's at the base). Plus it is designed for 2 Meter operation, WIMax is like 10-11cm. I would not recommend using that. It also uses RG58 COAX which is way too thick, using thicker COAX like RG8 is going to be way too thick (massive line losses). The coax used for our purposes is about as thick as 14-16 gauge wire, RG58 is about 1/4", and RG8 about 1/2" thick. By design our phones use a 1/4 wave dipole antenna built into the chassis/frame. My measurements might be off but a full wavelength antenna is about 2.75" so a dipole antenna mounted vertically would be more effective, and without the grounding/ground plane issue you would have with an omni. At higher frequencies your SWR would be even more critical. Too high and your output circuit is going to overload from RF feeding back, and either pop the final output, or let out the magic smoke. A WiFi antenna is a close match, and using a LC matching circuit would be a better choice (or you can cut it down since WiFi is at 2.4Ghz, and WIMax operates at 2.5Ghz). Again you are going to need some sort of measuring device to properly match your antenna. Also using an antenna without a ground-ground plane, or reflector your SWR is going to be off the charts. To receive it is not much of an issue, but once you start pushing RF down the wire then it's a whole new ballgame.
Check here for some ideas.. http://www.dxzone.com/catalog/Antennas/WiFi/
Hope I gave you a bit more information to work with.
Good Luck
73 de KF2M