Related
Hit post #11 for a walkthrough on replacing the earpiece.
Funny but kinda looking for serious replies as it is quite important
Nokia AAC-0510 seems working. (Chinese) http://www.itfunz.com/thread-84490-1-1.html
Somewhere on this forum is a link to a Russian blogger who pulled one apart and (apparently) swapped out speakers.
post #157
Just to report back i received the k850i earpiece today and successfully replaced it with the original one from the Defy, works perfectly and no modding at all except flattening the terminals slightly, its a very snug fit but is working fine and is much clearer than the original one in terms of call quality. Maybe the mods could sticky this or something incase anyone else has the earpiece problem. Total cost of repair £1.99 for earpiece and about 30minutes of my time !! much better than sending to motorolla for weeks on end in my opinion.
Cheers
Wizard123
That is great info to know! I am more confident in getting a Defy now knowing I can fix it on my own.
Any guide with pictures for us?
well done wizard123
i hope i will never have to do what you did with your speaker but... who knows?
yes a detailed guide with picture and tools-to-use would be a nice idea - really useful for all the people who void the warranty
A quick question...
What's the waterproofing situation like? Is there a membrane between the earpiece and the outside world or is it built into the Defy earpiece?
No problem guys, i hope you never have the issues but i know it did hit alot of people including me and motorolla claim mines was out of warranty being only 3 months old ?! but hey i dont have time to argue or mess about as i need my phone.
I will try to get some pictures up but in the meantime follow these steps it is so so simple :
1. Remove battery & SIM card
2. Remove the 7 screws from around the phone casing and the 2 silver screws underneath the back cover. ( You will need very small torx bits )
3. Separate the two halfs of the casing, ( very stiff and fiddly but dont be affraid to use a little force )
4. Carefully lift off the 2 connectors on the main PCB board and lift it out ( careful not to lose the yellow rubber washers )
5. Use a small pair of pliers or long nosed pliers to gently grib either side of the earpiece and slowly wiggle side to side untill it comes loose and lifts out ( This takes patience as it is very well glued in but does free off )
6. Take your new K850i earpiece and place into the slot with the two springy copper terminals facing up towards the top of the phone ( you dont HAVE to but i did flatten the terminals a little bit so not to bend the PCB board when you place it back in ) having the springy terminals on these earpieces placed the correct way up creates a very solid connection to the board too unlike the original earpieces which dont have any at all just flat terminals.
7. Return the PCB board back into position and reattach the 2 connectors removed in step 4.
8. Return the casing back into place and install all the screws ( dont forget the 2 SILVER screws FIRST, these hold the PCB board down to the casing and hold the connection solid to the earpiece )
9. Place SIM card and battery back in and boot up your fresh earpieced Defy
Pictures to follow soon hopefully
Cheers
Wizard123
*EDIT*
Have attached some pictures to reference, hope they help
technome said:
A quick question...
What's the waterproofing situation like? Is there a membrane between the earpiece and the outside world or is it built into the Defy earpiece?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There IS a tiny tiny membrane between the earpiece and the casing and does appear that it would still be waterproof but i have yet to test that and not sure if i will as it is a BIG BIG risk lol ( maybe though hmmm )
Thanks for that.
So the membrane stayed with the handset casing through the procedure?
wizard123 said:
*snip*
having the springy terminals on these earpieces placed the correct way up creates a very solid connection to the board too unlike the original earpieces which dont have any at all just flat terminals.
*snip*
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's interesting. Maybe the failures are caused by poor connections in the first place. Perhaps a pre-emptive strike with some electrically conductive paint would save the day. It's claimed to function as an adhesive.
http(remove this bit)://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ELECTRICALLY-CONDUCTIVE-SILVER-PAINT-PINTURA-CONDUTORA-/110660756415?pt=UK_BOI_Electrical_Components_Supplies_ET&hash=item19c3e523bf#ht_1850wt_1062
wizard123 said:
No problem guys, i hope you never have the issues but i know it did hit alot of people including me and motorolla claim mines was out of warranty being only 3 months old ?! but hey i dont have time to argue or mess about as i need my phone.
I will try to get some pictures up but in the meantime follow these steps it is so so simple :
1. Remove battery & SIM card
2. Remove the 7 screws from around the phone casing and the 2 silver screws underneath the back cover. ( You will need very small torx bits )
3. Separate the two halfs of the casing, ( very stiff and fiddly but dont be affraid to use a little force )
4. Carefully lift off the 2 connectors on the main PCB board and lift it out ( careful not to lose the yellow rubber washers )
5. Use a small pair of pliers or long nosed pliers to gently grib either side of the earpiece and slowly wiggle side to side untill it comes loose and lifts out ( This takes patience as it is very well glued in but does free off )
6. Take your new K850i earpiece and place into the slot with the two springy copper terminals facing up towards the top of the phone ( you dont HAVE to but i did flatten the terminals a little bit so not to bend the PCB board when you place it back in ) having the springy terminals on these earpieces placed the correct way up creates a very solid connection to the board too unlike the original earpieces which dont have any at all just flat terminals.
7. Return the PCB board back into position and reattach the 2 connectors removed in step 4.
8. Return the casing back into place and install all the screws ( dont forget the 2 SILVER screws FIRST, these hold the PCB board down to the casing and hold the connection solid to the earpiece )
9. Place SIM card and battery back in and boot up your fresh earpieced Defy
Pictures to follow soon hopefully
Cheers
Wizard123
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Great guide there - may well help quite a few people
technome said:
Thanks for that.
So the membrane stayed with the handset casing through the procedure?
That's interesting. Maybe the failures are caused by poor connections in the first place. Perhaps a pre-emptive strike with some electrically conductive paint would save the day. It's claimed to function as an adhesive.
http(remove this bit)://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ELECTRICALLY-CONDUCTIVE-SILVER-PAINT-PINTURA-CONDUTORA-/110660756415?pt=UK_BOI_Electrical_Components_Supplies_ET&hash=item19c3e523bf#ht_1850wt_1062
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes only the earpiece came away from the casing using the method i applied but again i can't swear by the membrane as it could possibly be different with other variants of the phone ( although i doubt it ).
And plus for me atleast, i'd rather have a working phone than a waterproof phone ( just me though )
I am nearly certain its an actual defect with the earpieces because if you blow the earpiece with some canned air it will function for 5-10 seconds before going off again.
I do think there may be a problem with both the connections and earpieces though as the way the oem connections are designed in the Defy for the earpiece contacts are piss poor, excuse my french lol.
Well, I'm sending my Defy in for repair today, after my earpiece started playing-up intermittently over the weekend. I tried to insist on a replacement but Motorola's support team were adamant that a repair is my only option under the terms of my warranty. Ah, well. I've got a spare phone.
That said, I will likely "paint" the earpiece connections upon its return and it's good to know that the K850i part works. I may buy a couple as a precaution.
technome said:
Well, I'm sending my Defy in for repair today, after my earpiece started playing-up intermittently over the weekend. I tried to insist on a replacement but Motorola's support team were adamant that a repair is my only option under the terms of my warranty. Ah, well. I've got a spare phone.
That said, I will likely "paint" the earpiece connections upon its return and it's good to know that the K850i part works. I may buy a couple as a precaution.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That sucks man sorry to hear that, it seems to be not if it will happen but when it will happen with these earpieces, yep motorola sucks for customer support to be fair. I hope your phone comes back ok though, alot of people have had it repair only for it to fail again a few weeks later.
Can I just double check which seller you got yours from as I've had a look on ebay & the three that are for sale look different styles - unless the pics are not of actual items?
Cheers
sp8y said:
Can I just double check which seller you got yours from as I've had a look on ebay & the three that are for sale look different styles - unless the pics are not of actual items?
Cheers
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The actual one i used is this one :
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=300370841729&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT
There is an actual motorola one that has the same terminals as the original but ( my opinion i would not trust another earpiece from them ) :
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=220640434368&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT
I wouldnt worry too much if they look slightly different aslong as they are for the k850i as it will most likely be because they are from different manufacturers
Hope that helps
That's great thanks very much
Might just order one to keep as you never know when it'll stop working.
I had my earpiece replaced by the company, you should really send it to motorola and don't mess around with the device.
Hello!
Has anyone seen a disassembly guide / dismantlling guide for an xperia play? I have had a quick look and havent seen one. A video one would be really good and one that looks at the digitizer / glass would be best for me as I seem to have broken mine already, oops!
Cheers
That sucks.
If you have Rogers they have a replacement policy. I would try that before you take it apart. Good luck. I haven't seen any guides yet. It is a pretty new phone.
You have a teardown here, it may be useful: http://www.ubmtechinsights.com/teardowns/sony-xperia-play-teardown/
I have found this, but would still like to see a video if one exists?
http://www.repairyourmobile.net/sony-ericsson-disassembly/sony-ericsson-xperia-play-disassembly/
Cheers
You can get a brand new OEM Sony Ericsson Touch Digitizer Screen on eBay from here: http://cgi.ebay.ca/OEM-Touch-Digiti...ultDomain_0&hash=item27bb11025c#ht_4868wt_905
I just ordered an OEM Xperia PLAY Black Housing Set from them and it's on its way. Funny how those "takedown" photos don't show you how they disconnected the sliding screen from the gamepad base. I got stuck at that part and have no idea how they were able to remove it. LOL
Rogers replacement policy doesn't give you the same model.... They have designated refurbished models available at no cost per person per life... You can only use it once... Unless the customer support was lying to me, that is what she told me.
Sent from my R800i using XDA App
Have you dealt with rogers before? The have no issue flatout lying to your face. I cant tell you how many times I got screwed over by those ****ers. So I get the feeling you'd be SOL
Sent from my R800i using XDA App
The only reason I switched over to Rogers was to get the Xperia PLAY for $99.99 on a 3 year agreement. I've been with Fido eversince and even though they're owned by Rogers now, I can say that Fido deals with their customers way better than Rogers does. When my 3 year agreement is done I'm going back with Fido. I already network unlocked my Xperia PLAY so if I still have it by then all I have to do is get a Fido SIM card.
Xperia Play disassembly pictures
Hey,
I am in the middle of taking apart my Xperia Play to replace the screen. Now, I got everything separated and taken apart except the screen half. I am having problem removing these silver rivets, which look like screws with a covering but the covering doesn't peel/come off. I have attached pictures of these in hopes that someone knows how to remove them.
Additionally, if anyone has experience replacing an Xperia Play screen, I'd love the advice.
Thanks in advance.
McD
Screen
Hi
Dont take the rivets OFF! If you just slide the control pad part off the metal casing you can get to the 2 screws you need to get to.
I have just finished replacing my screen and it is the scariest screen i have ever replaced as you need to go from back to front lol
I have attached a pic of my finished product, sorry i should of taken photos during it but i was shaking lol
Flava0ne said:
The only reason I switched over to Rogers was to get the Xperia PLAY for $99.99 on a 3 year agreement. I've been with Fido eversince and even though they're owned by Rogers now, I can say that Fido deals with their customers way better than Rogers does. When my 3 year agreement is done I'm going back with Fido. I already network unlocked my Xperia PLAY so if I still have it by then all I have to do is get a Fido SIM card.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I desperately hope that you did not get locked down to a 3 year agreement to just get this phone. As fun as this phone is (and likely to be used long past when I get another phone, just for Emulators and random games), it is not worth a 3 year contract. 2, I can understand. 1 would be more proper. 3 years is nuts in this industry. They have made back their offset of cost within 1.5 years usually.
Video!!
Hi
For anyone else who might benifit from this, here you go:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-3n5ZfkqhzE
Edd
eddieo said:
Hi
For anyone else who might benifit from this, here you go:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-3n5ZfkqhzE
Edd
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for that video link, I think it'll really help other people who might need to do some repairs on their own to their Xperia PLAY. I just wish that I came across that video earlier when I had to disassemble mines, I was so nervous when I was doing it cause all I had to go by where those pictures posted earlier and it left out a whole lot that I had to figure out myself.
Replacing Digitizer
Hello, Flava0ne
Do I have to take entire phone apart to replace digitizer? Is there simpler way to do it? Screen is fine - only digitizer is broken. Can it be removed from the top or bottom top access only?
Thank you
WOW sorry, too many tabs open. Wrong topic!!!
(Disregard this post)
Two questions: How far can you go without breaking a warranty seal and how many internal water damage indicators / liquid sensors are there? I just need to check since they are threatening $300 if they find anything and I work in the cold and frequently see condensation. I do avoid condensation actively and don't even allow it in the bathroom when showering.
---------- Post added at 03:01 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:03 PM ----------
OK, I went as far as I dared by completely taking apart the bottom piece (gamepad, camera, microSD slot, SIM slot, headset/remote jack, primary and secondary microphone, antennas, speakers, microUSB, etc) and, so far, I have found three. It was pretty easy up to this point and I didn't notice any kind of warranty seal.
I just removed all T6 screws from the back and lifted the catches along the bottom (headset/microUSB) side using my fingernail. One corner should be loose and you can start there and slide with no marring (didn't need my plastic pry tool). I don't know why, exactly, but the internal L & R switches are stuck to black adhesive films covering openings in this black piece but I was able to lift and unstick them without touching the films. Anyway, when you remove and flip this piece over, you should see a white square just below the mSD and SIM card slot. It's actually visible through a pinhole on the other side. If it's pink/red, you've got a problem, even if it's caused by condensation (they will still void your warranty for "water damage"). When I touched it, a plastic film on the back slipped off but stuck back on. The whole thing seems like it peels off quite easily.
Anyway, I would wiggle the power button loose before moving on. Next, there are now two tiny cross-head screws that I used a PH00x50 driver on. Yes, one of them was clearly accessible as soon as you removed the battery, but why remove it until you are ready to remove both? Once those are out, let the headphone jack dangle off its ribbon cable and lift the PCB enough to disconnect the display connector from the PCB... just stick something wide and flat in there and twist. Be careful not to damage the tiny ribbon cable that connects the touchpad area from the gamepad because it still needs to be disconnected. Now, this is OPPOSITE of how many larger but similar connectors work, so pay attention: To disconnect it, locate the tiny darker-colored flap of plastic on the opposite side of the connector from where the cable goes in. Lift it from the opposite side toward the side where the cable inserts. It will stand straight up and then you can slide the cable out. If you have to remove it, the headphone/remote jack appears to work the same way.
Anyway, this should completely free the PCB and leave the gamepad shell attached to the display. The gamepad shell should be free from the front half of the phone now as well, leaving only the sliding metal mounting bracket.
Now, a couple of interesting things here: I can clearly tell that one of the T6 screws by the volume button was protruding too far and caused a visible sliding scratch on the underside of my top shell. It may make sense to loosen these a bit on a new phone before this happens. You can also see if imperfections in the white Teflon sliding bumps are causing scratches on the front (my first phone did not, my second did in no time).
Now, let's go back to the gamepad faceplate. The buttons should easily fall out if you want them too, but I was only interested in finding the water sensors and here are two more: one is right by the microphone hole and the other in diagonally opposite under the Playstation Certified logo. They look identical to the one on the back piece.
I'm sure that there is at least one in the LCD assembly as well, but mine is well sealed and I didn't want to lift any of those silvery-gray stickers covering the screws when I have a warranty replacement on the way. I've gone far enough to satisfy my curiosity.
---------- Post added at 03:51 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:01 PM ----------
A couple notes on re-assembly:
As expected, it's a bit more difficult, especially because you don't have leverage to reconnect the display when it is in place. The last fold of the cable it supposed to fit UNDER the metal bracket and the slide mechanism doesn't really work if it isn't (a certain panel will not slide back if it is not folded under). I'm not sure how it affects it but it does. You will need a thin, long, flat utensil like a plastic butter knife or something to either A) provide leverage to connect the connector or B) tuck the cable back under the bracket after connecting it. You need to have already connected the touchpads and oriented the gamepad faceplate around/under the bracket, though it will not be secured. The phone also needs to be in the open position. When you tuck the cable under, slide it to the closed position and back. If the cable seated properly, the PCB and gamepad faceplate should sit pretty flat and should no longer be falling off of the bracket even though it isn't really secured.
The D-pad needs to be arranged properly as well. One side is cut. If you look closely, there are three holes in the four inner corners that align with three plus-shaped pegs, so you can't get it wrong if you pay attention.
The power/lock button isn't going to stay in place until you secure the bottom housing, so leave it off until just before you are ready to do that to avoid losing it.
Be careful not to seal dust in the camera lens. Don't forget to put the cross-head screws back before you do the back housing because you can't easily access one. Remember to keep the four black screws by the L, R, and volume buttons a little loose if you had a problem with them scratching the other half of the phone.
Be sure to download the Xperia Play test program from the Google Market and verify that all buttons and touch inputs function properly.
I'll be sure to wear my Looxcie next time.
I feel sorry for you blokes taking apart the xperia
it's going to be a royal pain in the ass. especially when you reach that "point"
the point where you have **** all over the table and you are like god how did i get this deep into disassembly
then the part when you are shaking / nervous about breaking a part, or worse yet. you end up breaking it. i would be real scared lol.
all i can say is go real slow. REAL slow
and if anything wont move. dont force it lol
Hogwarts said:
I feel sorry for you blokes taking apart the xperia
it's going to be a royal pain in the ass. especially when you reach that "point"
the point where you have **** all over the table and you are like god how did i get this deep into disassembly
then the part when you are shaking / nervous about breaking a part, or worse yet. you end up breaking it. i would be real scared lol.
all i can say is go real slow. REAL slow
and if anything wont move. dont force it lol
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Maybe I've just taken apart too many laptops and gadgets before but I never felt that way when I got the back piece completely apart... or maybe "that point" is only after you get into the front assembly. I did the rear in bed with the screws laying on the covers beside me and didn't even lose the arrangement of a single one.
Anyway, moments after getting my RMA replacement shipped email notification this morning, I dropped my R800at that is supposed to be getting sent back and now the touch digitizer is shattered. I've ordered a replacement but I'm hoping that I'll be sending it back with the original from the RMA replacement. Does anyone know if the R800a or R800at will fit a R800 Z1i chassis? These are all over eBay. Also, is there any tamper seal? I understand that there are screws under the silver/gray stickers on the front piece but those look easy enough to reapply.
Did I mention that they wanted to turn my RMA down for the flaking paint on the front buttons alone? The night before I called to RMA for an alarm issue (two days ago), the battery door cracked right at the pry point. I remove it more often than most because I carry a second official battery and a Sony Ericsson EP900 charger, so it failed under normal wear-and-tear, but they wanted to say that I couldn't RMA for my main issue (alarm dismisses itself) because of that EVEN THOUGH THE RMA UNITS DON'T INCLUDE A BATTERY COVER!
Damn. Sony Ericsson can be picky. I babied the thing and only just now dropped it. Perhaps AT&T is a little too cautious with the terms of Sony's warranty (it is processed through them but the rules come from Sony).
CZroe said:
Maybe I've just taken apart too many laptops and gadgets before but I never felt that way when I got the back piece completely apart... or maybe "that point" is only after you get into the front assembly. I did the rear in bed with the screws laying on the covers beside me and didn't even lose the arrangement of a single one.
Anyway, moments after getting my RMA replacement shipped email notification this morning, I dropped my R800at that is supposed to be getting sent back and now the touch digitizer is shattered. I've ordered a replacement but I'm hoping that I'll be sending it back with the original from the RMA replacement. Does anyone know if the R800a or R800at will fit a R800 Z1i chassis? These are all over eBay. Also, is there any tamper seal? I understand that there are screws under the silver/gray stickers on the front piece but those look easy enough to reapply.
Did I mention that they wanted to turn my RMA down for the flaking paint on the front buttons alone? The night before I called to RMA for an alarm issue (two days ago), the battery door cracked right at the pry point. I remove it more often than most because I carry a second official battery and a Sony Ericsson EP900 charger, so it failed under normal wear-and-tear, but they wanted to say that I couldn't RMA for my main issue (alarm dismisses itself) because of that EVEN THOUGH THE RMA UNITS DON'T INCLUDE A BATTERY COVER!
Damn. Sony Ericsson can be picky. I babied the thing and only just now dropped it. Perhaps AT&T is a little too cautious with the terms of Sony's warranty (it is processed through them but the rules come from Sony).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've always said this phone is cheaply made and now i have more proof
mine came brand new out of the box with a blemish on the screen
I'm not picky so i just kept it.
Its a blemish in the LCD screen not the digitizer or glass
and yeah the cheap ass plastic assembly is not helping either.
they should have used aluminum or something. more durable
OK, so I finished the job. I did not see any more water indicators in the top shell and I did not find a single tamper-resistant label in the entire device. I left the slider assembly intact (I think it's riveted) and I didn't peel the flex PCB out of the top shell or off of the touchoads, but it was what anyone would consider "fully disassembled." I seem to have misplaced my camera but video will be coming when I find and edit it.
Hi guys,
I have just broken my Dinc2's glass screen. The underlying LCD screen is still functional and the touch screen works. So, I am guessing that I only broke the glass on the top of the screen... I uploaded pics to make it clear.
The casing near the USB port got bent some time back when I went kayaking... And I think that is where the screen cracked significantly when I dropped the phone.
I can still use the touchscreen and there are no discoloration on the LCD. So, can you guys suggest to me what Screen replacement product I need to buy online and (preferably) give me a link for said product and a How to repair guide. Plus, is this process easy? As in if I spend a few hours carefully following the steps to repair, will I succeed?? Moreover, can I replace the metal casing as well?
Thanks for the help gang! I really need to get my phone back to 100% working condition as I don't have an upgrade available till April '13 and I have cancelled my phone's insurance recently!
EDIT: Does this product help? http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0057OO9OC/
http://www.repairsuniverse.com/htc-droid-incredible-2-screen-replacements-repair-parts.html
I just replaced my digitizer for $11 on eBay.
It's an HTC one too (no "Verizon" branding, just "HTC".
It's for an Incredible S, came out of SoCal.
EDIT:
Here's the Digitizer
http://goo.gl/w7Vr0 $12.77
Here's the adhesive (sticker) that HAS to be replaced or it'll lift-up and will allow dust inside. Thus driving you F'ING INSANE. Mine is on order
http://goo.gl/34ylh
-Truckin-
Truckin'Ain't4Sissies said:
I just replaced my digitizer for $11 on eBay.
It's an HTC one too (no "Verizon" branding, just "HTC".
It's for an Incredible S, came out of SoCal.
EDIT:
Here's the Digitizer
http://goo.gl/w7Vr0 $12.77
Here's the adhesive (sticker) that HAS to be replaced or it'll lift-up and will allow dust inside. Thus driving you F'ING INSANE. Mine is on order
http://goo.gl/34ylh
-Truckin-
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So I have dust under my screen even though my phone is completely original and never been dropped. Do you think it's worth taking apart, cleaning out, and replacing the adhesive? How long do you think it would take, and what is the likelihood of doing more damage to the phone?
Truckin'Ain't4Sissies said:
I just replaced my digitizer for $11 on eBay.
It's an HTC one too (no "Verizon" branding, just "HTC".
It's for an Incredible S, came out of SoCal.
EDIT:
Here's the Digitizer
http://goo.gl/w7Vr0 $12.77
Here's the adhesive (sticker) that HAS to be replaced or it'll lift-up and will allow dust inside. Thus driving you F'ING INSANE. Mine is on order
http://goo.gl/34ylh
-Truckin-
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I bought the following on amazon:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005GIUHDQ
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0057OO9OC
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002EXHR1Q
I should have probably waited for more replies, like yours, here to get a better product link. Anyway, I guess I bought all the needed parts. I hope I get good quality material and I can get going with the repair... Do you think that they are good? The digitizer and tools didn't ship yet, so I can try and cancel and buy the one from ebay...
I actually just finished doing this a few hours ago. It does take some time to do it but if you have patience you can do it
You have to remove the LCD to remove the digitizer, so you will have all the parts out of the body of the phone. It is easier if you replace the body because it comes with new adhesive already perfectly cut and installed. If you reuse the old one you will have to scrape all the old adhesive off, then cut new adhesive. They are also available in red/silver/black so you can change colors.
Dermen said:
I actually just finished doing this a few hours ago. It does take some time to do it but if you have patience you can do it
You have to remove the LCD to remove the digitizer, so you will have all the parts out of the body of the phone. It is easier if you replace the body because it comes with new adhesive already perfectly cut and installed. If you reuse the old one you will have to scrape all the old adhesive off, then cut new adhesive. They are also available in red/silver/black so you can change colors.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
When you say replacing the body, are you referring to the front housing/bezel? That is this: http://www.repairsuniverse.com/htc-droid-incredible-2-front-housing-bezel-replacement.html
If so, where did you buy it, as I want a reliable and reasonably priced product online. Thanks a lot for the help, btw!
litetaker said:
When you say replacing the body, are you referring to the front housing/bezel? That is this: http://www.repairsuniverse.com/htc-droid-incredible-2-front-housing-bezel-replacement.html
If so, where did you buy it, as I want a reliable and reasonably priced product online. Thanks a lot for the help, btw!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That is what I was referring to as the body, since all the parts attach to it. I actually got an entire new housing, came with the bezel, the middle part, and a new battery cover since my battery cover was beat up and I was changing colors. The middle part I didn't need but it was cheaper to buy all 3 parts than just 2.
I got it on ebay. The Incredible 2 and the Incredible S housing parts are interchangeable. I ended up getting S parts because they were cheaper. Most of the ebay sellers are in China so shipping takes 1-2 weeks depending on the seller. Repairsuniverse is good if you want it fast, I ordered from them once and got the part in 2 days.
Parts arrived. Links to tutorials PLEASE!
Dermen said:
That is what I was referring to as the body, since all the parts attach to it. I actually got an entire new housing, came with the bezel, the middle part, and a new battery cover since my battery cover was beat up and I was changing colors. The middle part I didn't need but it was cheaper to buy all 3 parts than just 2.
I got it on ebay. The Incredible 2 and the Incredible S housing parts are interchangeable. I ended up getting S parts because they were cheaper. Most of the ebay sellers are in China so shipping takes 1-2 weeks depending on the seller. Repairsuniverse is good if you want it fast, I ordered from them once and got the part in 2 days.
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Hi guys, I just received all the parts. The following are what I ordered:
Housing Front for HTC Droid Incredible 2 Red Body Frame Chassis Bezel Part
Verizon HTC Droid Incredible 2 Replacement Touch Screen Digitizer Replacement Front Glass
2mm Wide Double Sided Layer Adhesive Sticky Tape Sticker
Tools for iPhone and most of phone
Now I am ready to replace the screen. Tutorials? I found some online, but would like to see what you guys followed to see if I can find simple and comprehensive tutorials!
Thanks! And wish me luck.
litetaker said:
Hi guys, I just received all the parts. The following are what I ordered:
Housing Front for HTC Droid Incredible 2 Red Body Frame Chassis Bezel Part
Verizon HTC Droid Incredible 2 Replacement Touch Screen Digitizer Replacement Front Glass
2mm Wide Double Sided Layer Adhesive Sticky Tape Sticker
Tools for iPhone and most of phone
Now I am ready to replace the screen. Tutorials? I found some online, but would like to see what you guys followed to see if I can find simple and comprehensive tutorials!
Thanks! And wish me luck.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
1. Take it apart.
2. Put it together with new parts.
3. ???
4. Profit.
prototype7 said:
1. Take it apart.
2. Put it together with new parts.
3. ???
4. Profit.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks, captain obvious!
I wanted to know if there is a detailed how to. Anyway, managed to take it apart. All guides end at taking it apart and say, "well, now you know how to dissemble it, just go in reverse and assemble it. Well. I wish they don't do that and show me through the reverse just to avoid mistakes. I remember having to redo IKEA furniture due to missing a few parts. Don't wanna do this messy procedure and realize I forgot a button or worst still putting the screen on!
Anyway, I am a grad student with a bachelors in Engineering... I should be ashamed if I can't do this! :silly:
repairsuniverse has a guide on youtube for replacing the digitizer. I found it easy to follow. Only difference is when you put it back together put the parts in the new body. You will also have to pull the speaker out of the old body and put it in the new. It is held in by glue, heat it with a hairdryer/heatgun and it comes out pretty easily. You might need to use some new adhesive on the speaker, I was able to pull the old adhesive out of the body in one piece using a hairdryer and some tweezers.
Dermen said:
repairsuniverse has a guide on youtube for replacing the digitizer. I found it easy to follow. Only difference is when you put it back together put the parts in the new body. You will also have to pull the speaker out of the old body and put it in the new. It is held in by glue, heat it with a hairdryer/heatgun and it comes out pretty easily. You might need to use some new adhesive on the speaker, I was able to pull the old adhesive out of the body in one piece using a hairdryer and some tweezers.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I am 100% done with the repair. But there are a few issues. The Vibrator motor seems to be not working. Then, the Digitizer I bought doesn't have a hole for the front facing camera! That is not a major setback as I rarely use it and I have a tablet and a PC to skype chat with... But it is sad that a feature is missing.
The big issue is the vibrator not working. I didn't mangle it and put it back in place as I am supposed to. Finally, I have 1 or 2 small dust particles under the screen and that is ok. I couldn't remove all the dust and it is a miracle I managed to get it that clean. Finally I seem to have a slight green tint/screen bleed at top left corner. I didn't have that before and I didn't distort the LCD while replacing. Is it due to a smudge on the LCD there? I suppose it is a minor issue and not something that will amplify as I have a Transformer prime that has screen bleeds and it is apparently because the screws are too tight.. So may be I tightened something too much? Anyway, if it doesn't deteriorate I am ok, as it is a very, very minor problem.
So, bottom line: Main problems > (1) No FFC (due to improper digitizer) -> I don't intend to fix it. (2) Vibrator motor not working.
Can someone help me with 2?
I fricking fixed it! I have WORK to do and I spent about 4 hrs fixing my phone!!! I'm kinda screwed for tomorrow! At least now my phone works...
That is odd it didn't have a spot for the front camera. I replaced my digitizer and it has a clear spot for it but it is not even close to centered. It actually looks like it would obstruct the camera but it doesn't. If you take it apart again for some reason you can scrape the black off the back so it is clear. However, it is very hard to do that and make it look decent.
Getting it perfect with no dust between the lcd and digitizer is very very hard to do. The first phone I did I actually took it apart again because there not only was dust but smudges on the other side of the digitizer. As for the bleeding I wouldn't think you could cause it from pressure in the inc2 because the lcd and digitizer are just held on the front by adhesive. The LCD has adhesive around the entire edge of it, I don't know if that also blocks light from the edges but if it does and there is a little bit missing maybe it is the cause.
Dermen said:
That is odd it didn't have a spot for the front camera. I replaced my digitizer and it has a clear spot for it but it is not even close to centered. It actually looks like it would obstruct the camera but it doesn't. If you take it apart again for some reason you can scrape the black off the back so it is clear. However, it is very hard to do that and make it look decent.
Getting it perfect with no dust between the lcd and digitizer is very very hard to do. The first phone I did I actually took it apart again because there not only was dust but smudges on the other side of the digitizer. As for the bleeding I wouldn't think you could cause it from pressure in the inc2 because the lcd and digitizer are just held on the front by adhesive. The LCD has adhesive around the entire edge of it, I don't know if that also blocks light from the edges but if it does and there is a little bit missing maybe it is the cause.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The following are the images of my fixed and "pimped" Dinc2.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/beop9oqvn6qo9p5/2012-09-25 00.23.03.jpg
https://www.dropbox.com/s/qh62damm82z0qmu/2012-09-25 00.22.32.jpg
Is the two tone color combination looking sweet, or should I change the back to red as well? I have a spare black back cover. If anyone has a spare red back cover, I can trade!
Plus, the "smudge/screen bleed" at the top left edge is seen in this pic:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/illeve11tomyrtw/2012-09-25 00.54.23.jpg (The black spot on the middle of the left side is a dust spec!)
Close up: https://www.dropbox.com/s/9ys4r2e6xmxfhnh/2012-09-25 00.54.48.jpg
Is the smudge bad? I think it is just a smudge on the LCD and not a damage to the LCD right? In that case, I am cool, as I most likely will cause other smudges if I attempt to redo it anyway. Plus, I am kinda bummed out about the lack of FFC, but I hardly use it and the whole process of removing the screen is SOOO tedious (and I don't have a heat gun, so had to put my phone a feet above a gas burner! ) and it was so painful and stomach wrenching to safely remove the LCD/digitizer that I don't wish to do it again to repair the FFC...
So, what do ya say?
I think the two tone looks good since the red phones have all black accents. I thought it was weird that the speaker on the red phone is silver, while all the other accents are black.
There seems to be a problem with the adhesive. The digitizer is raised by about 1 millimeter at the top while it is attached better at the bottom. I think it is because I had an additional horizontal strip of adhesive at the bottom to attach the digitizer to both the LCD and the buttons firmly while I didn't put such a horizontal strip at the top as I didn't see one when I dissembled it. If I put pressure on the digitizer for a while, it sets back in place for about half a day. Is this a serious problem? I don't feel like dissembling again.
litetaker said:
Hi guys, I just received all the parts. The following are what I ordered:
Housing Front for HTC Droid Incredible 2 Red Body Frame Chassis Bezel Part
Verizon HTC Droid Incredible 2 Replacement Touch Screen Digitizer Replacement Front Glass
2mm Wide Double Sided Layer Adhesive Sticky Tape Sticker
Tools for iPhone and most of phone
Now I am ready to replace the screen. Tutorials? I found some online, but would like to see what you guys followed to see if I can find simple and comprehensive tutorials!
Thanks! And wish me luck.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I just broke my screen and im looking to go the same route. This is a good phone to have as a back up after i get my upgrade and i dont want to get rid of it.
Anyway, did you need all those parts to successfully change your screen? I thought if you bought a new housing you would not need the adhesive tape?
So my screen got busted, Long story short, if your glass cracks, don't put off the $15 replacement cost, because eventually it'll crack the LCD also. I sourced a Sprint S3 LCD, mint condition, for less than the cost of the insurance deductable.
I do a lot of DIY repairs so this sort of thing is normal for me, but be advised this isn't for the squeamish or for someone who doesn't have a steady hand. You have to mill/grind/wish away aluminum, sometimes to within a thousandth, of pcb flex cable. One blink and you could ruin the whole thing. If you go too deep, you'll cut into the LCD and its assembly. So.. be warned.
This isn't a guide, just a picture to show you what I did. I compared the two subframes for awhile and marked what I needed to grind away. I found out later there was some more I needed to grind, so I eventually just ground away a lot of the mass just so I didn't have to keep checking fitment.
Once fitment was just right I put new thermal tape in place of the stuff that got damaged, and assembled everything. It booted up like a charm. The rear case doesn't fit as well, there's a plastic difference between it and the Sprint rear case. I just ground away the plastic to make it fit. A Sprint rear case would fit fine.
The metal I ground away is the 'shiny' stuff, but to be specific, I highlighted it in a thin pink line. Tools used were a blow gun and a dremel with a cutting disc and a stone grinding point. I used painter's tape to mask off areas I didn't want crud going in, specifically the cable connectors and front camera and LED port. Also eye and ear protection (earbuds with music of course). Took about 2 hours.
For this particular swap you will be left over with one screw. The black screw at the bottom which holds the pcb to the frame on the AT&T model doesn't exist on the Sprint model. I didn't feel like drilling/tapping, so I just left it out.
So if you need an LCD and happen upon one from another brand for less, you might just be in luck. Hope this helps someone, or gives a good 5 minute read on a lunch break.
Hey guys, I hope someone can help!
My phone no longer vibrates, if I do *#*#3424#*#* and do the vibration test, it doesn't do anything unless I tap the top right corner of the phone.
Obviously this is a hardware defect, but if I send it off to repair through carphone warehouse, should I take the phone back to stock? Has anyone has experience of using them and being rooted causing an issue?
Thanks guys!
I had the same issue. I had to open up the phone to fix it, but didn't need to do much more than actually opening it.
Bear in mind this will void your warranty.
Here's what I did:
Turn off the phone.
Remove the SIM and SD card trays.
Take a guitar pick or thin plastic object and gently (but with a small amount of pressure), pry up the black plastic piece on the top of the phone, it's held down with some adhesive, so you might need to peel it a bit.
You will find two size 4 torx screws under there, one on each side, recessed into the housing. Remove them.
Now use your plastic implement to start peeling off the back of the case. It works best if you dig it into the seam, then once you have it in there, run it around the edge to release the clips holding the case together.
Once the back is off, you will find the vibration module in the upper right of the circuitry you find inside, it's a small black cylinder with a silver head on it.
It's held in place with rubber bumpers on either side. Take your plastic implement and gently lift it from its housing.
Now rotate the head a few times between your fingers to loosen it up, also giving the head a very gentle push and pull - VERY GENTLE.
Now put the vibration unit carefully back into its housing.
Clip the rear casing of the phone back on. This can very tricky to get all the clips to snap back into place. Don't do what I did and use pliers. My phone now has a small dent in it. Whoops!
Once the rear casing is back in place, replace the two screws in the top of the phone, followed by the black plastic piece you removed at the beginning.
Power the phone back on, and with a bit of luck, your vibration unit will be unstuck and working again.
I sent it in for warranty repair... Hopefully they don't care it's rooted!
Thanks for this though, very useful if/when it happens again
my vibration was not working also, even in the service menu to test vibration. had all the work to go back to stock to send it do warranty, but the format to stock was enough for him to start vibrating again...
Who the hell knows!
Don't worry- List of answers found Vibrate not work
It ended up being a hardware issue. Sent it off to carphone warehouse in the UK. They agreed with the fault being hardware and sent me a replacement under HTC warranty.
I sent the phone in whilst rooted, s-off and ARHD installed
Sent from my HTC One M9 using Tapatalk
aliveanddead86 said:
It ended up being a hardware issue. Sent it off to carphone warehouse in the UK. They agreed with the fault being hardware and sent me a replacement under HTC warranty.
I sent the phone in whilst rooted, s-off and ARHD installed
Sent from my HTC One M9 using Tapatalk
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Click to collapse
How long was the turnaround time? I sent mine through the carrier here (vodafone PT) 19/12 and still haven't heard anything from them...
pmoreirac said:
How long was the turnaround time? I sent mine through the carrier here (vodafone PT) 19/12 and still haven't heard anything from them...
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Click to collapse
It took about a week to get there, then a few days sat around at their place, then they sent me a new one. So around 2 weeks.
But it wasn't over the Xmas period!
It also depends what Vodafone do with it, they might send it off to HTC direct. I have had bad experiences of them before with my desire HD. They basically lost the phone and took 3 months to replace it. "We've just moved warehouses so it'll take a bit longer than normal" was the constant line I had from them!
Sent from my HTC One M9 using Tapatalk
aliveanddead86 said:
It took about a week to get there, then a few days sat around at their place, then they sent me a new one. So around 2 weeks.
But it wasn't over the Xmas period!
It also depends what Vodafone do with it, they might send it off to HTC direct. I have had bad experiences of them before with my desire HD. They basically lost the phone and took 3 months to replace it. "We've just moved warehouses so it'll take a bit longer than normal" was the constant line I had from them!
Sent from my HTC One M9 using Tapatalk
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So strange because I've just noticed my vibrate has stopped working too. Tried running the diagnostic test and it doesn't work. The really bizarre part to me is that if you restart/power on the phone, it has a quick vibration buzz so that must imply my motor isn't broken but it's the software causing an issue. I'm running ARHD 14, but MIke's about to release the new Android M update so when that's out, I'll clean wipe and report if it's fixed
kash20 said:
So strange because I've just noticed my vibrate has stopped working too. Tried running the diagnostic test and it doesn't work. The really bizarre part to me is that if you restart/power on the phone, it has a quick vibration buzz so that must imply my motor isn't broken but it's the software causing an issue. I'm running ARHD 14, but MIke's about to release the new Android M update so when that's out, I'll clean wipe and report if it's fixed
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Click to collapse
You haven't put power saver on? As I know that disables vibrate
Sent from my HTC One M9 using Tapatalk
I've noticed banging the top of your phone agaisnt a hard surface provides a temporary fix (please don't do this and damage your device. I'm not responsible enough) it actually fixed my issue for a minute. Hopefully with enough banging I won't have to open the device up to fix it
Sent from my HTC One M9 using Tapatalk
Didn't help mine
bilibox said:
I've noticed banging the top of your phone agaisnt a hard surface provides a temporary fix (please don't do this and damage your device. I'm not responsible enough) it actually fixed my issue for a minute. Hopefully with enough banging I won't have to open the device up to fix it
Sent from my HTC One M9 using Tapatalk
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Click to collapse
Contacted HTC have to put up $600 until they get old phone. So maybe i wait until M10 is out replace and just sale it new...
Look out of nowhere my phone also presented this problem, I will try here.
kutuup said:
I had the same issue. I had to open up the phone to fix it, but didn't need to do much more than actually opening it.
Bear in mind this will void your warranty.
Here's what I did:
Turn off the phone.
Remove the SIM and SD card trays.
Take a guitar pick or thin plastic object and gently (but with a small amount of pressure), pry up the black plastic piece on the top of the phone, it's held down with some adhesive, so you might need to peel it a bit.
You will find two size 4 torx screws under there, one on each side, recessed into the housing. Remove them.
Now use your plastic implement to start peeling off the back of the case. It works best if you dig it into the seam, then once you have it in there, run it around the edge to release the clips holding the case together.
Once the back is off, you will find the vibration module in the upper right of the circuitry you find inside, it's a small black cylinder with a silver head on it.
It's held in place with rubber bumpers on either side. Take your plastic implement and gently lift it from its housing.
Now rotate the head a few times between your fingers to loosen it up, also giving the head a very gentle push and pull - VERY GENTLE.
Now put the vibration unit carefully back into its housing.
Clip the rear casing of the phone back on. This can very tricky to get all the clips to snap back into place. Don't do what I did and use pliers. My phone now has a small dent in it. Whoops!
Once the rear casing is back in place, replace the two screws in the top of the phone, followed by the black plastic piece you removed at the beginning.
Power the phone back on, and with a bit of luck, your vibration unit will be unstuck and working again.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
...