Develop Bugs

[FAQ] Charger mod, howto USB fast charge.

I know this is mostly common knowledge but I still see many questions regarding this come up, so instead of explaining this over and over I can now link to this and flame away.
anyway...
When you charge your phone using an original HTC wall charger you phone gets all the power it needs to run itself and charge (up to 1000ma).
When you charge from any (most) other devices (this includes car chargers,non HTC wall chargers or any USB port) your phone will draw up to 500ma (the USB standard) REGARDLESS of the devices output.
The reason why the phone only draws 500ma on USB is so it does not damage any equipment by drawing more power than it can output safely (by design anything with a USB port can safely output 500ma).
The trouble is pretty much all equipment can safely output more than the USB standard of 500ma and safely charge your phone at full speed.
The phone distinguishes between an original HTC charger and other devices by whether or not the data wires are shorted (connected to each other).
How to do the charger mod.
Disclaimer: I take no responsibility for anything that may happen as a result of doing this, by following these instructions you will be pushing any device you charge your phone from beyond the USB specifications, results of this may be, but not limited to your motherboard bursting into flames, you car exploding, the inventor/s of USB knocking on your door and slapping you in the face, but most probably faster charging and not a lot else.
Get yourself a short USB extender wire, male at one end, female at the other.
Cut the wire in half.
Connect the red and black wires up as they were before (or don't cut them in step 1).
On the Female side of the wire connect the green and white wires together.
On the Male side of the wire simply leave the green and white wires connected to nothing.
Insulate the ends of all of the wires with insulating tape.
Tie a knot in the wire so if the wire is pulled the knot is pulled and not the connection you made, it doesn't look pretty but the wire will last a lifetime this way.
All done, now use this wire in between your desire and whatever you want to charge from and get a full speed charge. You will lose data connectivity when using this wire.
There are other ways of doing this, for example.
Soldering together the data pins (middle 2) on the device you wish to charge from. Don't do this on your laptop...this method is intended for car chargers, wall plugs, and external USB battery packs.
Soldering together a male and female USB port and plug directly with no wire in between, this can look really good if you know what your doing.

Great guide! Just a quick question I have a 3rd party USB cable but an official htc wall plug. Will my desire still get 1000mA? Or will it only get 500 because of the 3rd party charger?

ste1164 said:
Great guide! Just a quick question I have a 3rd party USB cable but an official htc wall plug. Will my desire still get 1000mA? Or will it only get 500 because of the 3rd party charger?
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I have a 3rd party changer and I did this mod and it's working really great it's charging really fast

ste1164 said:
Great guide! Just a quick question I have a 3rd party USB cable but an official htc wall plug. Will my desire still get 1000mA? Or will it only get 500 because of the 3rd party charger?
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The original charger shorts the data pins so it doesn't matter what cable you use.

Hi,
just wanted to say thank you for the idea. For me this is really usefull in some situations at work, where I have no access to a socket, but a pc.
It charges not as fast as the AC charger, but MUCH faster, than the usual 500mah USB method.
And so does it look like:
fileden.com/files/2006/9/25/238757/charger2.jpg
fileden.com/files/2006/9/25/238757/charger1.jpg

TrTech said:
just wanted to say thank you for the idea. For me this is really usefull in some situations at work, where I have no access to a socket, but a pc.
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And next time, use your brain first, please.
Do you have an idea why the HTC Desire does limit the current to 500mA if it's not connected to a dedicated charger which shorts the two data pins? Ever thought about it? Ever?

Umm... yes. But please feel free to enlight me.

TrTech said:
Umm... yes. But please feel free to enlight me.
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umm, and I thought the post starter already answered this question:
The reason why the phone only draws 500ma on USB is so it does not damage any equipment by drawing more power than it can output safely (by design anything with a USB port can safely output 500ma).
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So in other words:
Any laptop or computer can output max. 500mA by USB specifications.
So this means:
You can have luck and your computer doesn't get damaged if more current gets requested, it just limits the current to something around 500mA.
You can have luck and your computer just shuts down the USB port and Windows reports you that a malfunction device got connected.
You can have bad luck, most often the case, especially on cheap notebooks, netbooks, computers, a fuse will prevent bigger damage and the USB port remains dead until the rest of it's computer live.
So the limit got wisely chosen. So if you want to use your USB ports in the future, too, then only use this 'trick' on wall adapters which support an output current equal or larger than 1A (1000mA), or use it only in combination with USB ports which support that high currents (most often advertised as being able to charge the Apple IPad), most often found on external USB hubs.

UpSpin said:
umm, and I thought the post starter already answered this question
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Me too. Its all written in the first post and I'm doing it on my own risk. Still wondering about your raging post.
I will update this, as soon as the first pc was fried.

TrTech said:
Me too. Its all written in the first post and I'm doing it on my own risk. Still wondering about your raging post.
I will update this, as soon as the first pc was fried.
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I was that 'unfriendly' because other people will do the same, because person xy said that it works. Then they fry their mainboard or notebook and complain.
I also don't understand why anyone risks damaging intentionally its computer or parts of it, especially if there's absolutely no need for it, e.g. just let it charge in USB mode, or take a small charger with you, or at least use two USB ports to separate the load.
But well, maybe some people don't have to take care of their computer.

This is an interesting thread. I have a Pebble charger and it literally takes four hours to charge my 1400mAh from ~0% to 100%, now my question is, will this damage my Pebble charger shorting the two wires to draw a greater current from the unit?
Overheating, melting and explosions are something I am looking to avoid.

I have yet to find a device that has been damaged doing this. I have personally tried this on a ps3, Xbox wii, 4 laptops 2 desktops, car radio,car charger and a sky+ box.

Kalavere said:
This is an interesting thread. I have a Pebble charger and it literally takes four hours to charge my 1400mAh from ~0% to 100%, now my question is, will this damage my Pebble charger shorting the two wires to draw a greater current from the unit?
Overheating, melting and explosions are something I am looking to avoid.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Did you try this? I too have a Pebble and would be interested to know if I have just 30 minutes to plug it in, can I charge quicker.
Also, did the guys PC blow up? He said he would come back!?!? Maybe it did and he's in hospital still Dangerous things USB ports...

thanks for this ! I go to try this

MM i have an interesting one (which i still dont get)
i have a pebble charger
with OEM HTC Micro USB charger cable
and Pebble charger
plug phone into OEM micro USB charger to phone (phone says Power AC) yeh thats right
OEM Micro USB to computer (chargin USB)
So far so good
Pebble charger OEM USB to phone (chargin USB)
Pebble Cable charger to phone ( Power AC)
why are the OEM and Pebble charger cables different?
Sorry if i am posting in the wrong area but the topics seem pretty similar to me =P

to put my 2pence in, i've just done this but slightly different than the OP method..
i bought the belkin car charger, gives 1amp, but is detected as 'USB', not 'AC' charging mode, so my phone only charges upto 500ma which isnt enough (in reality it doesnt charge when i have GPS & max screen brightness).
instead of modding a USB cable (unable to use for data) or buying extra kit (money/ordering/going out) i pulled a strand of wire from a spare mains cable i had, threaded it through the 2 center pins on the belkin charger and then twisted the wire together.
USB cable is slightly tighter in the socket now, but still removable and keeps everything nice and tidy.... and more to the point; cheap!
poor shown from belkin; 'USB charger' mode in a car! like it would ever have data connection to the 12v socket.
hope that helps someone!

USB cable to quick-charge an HTC smartphone
Check http://winhlp.com/node/855 for some more details and photos of a USB cable modification.

Does this mod change the detection of car mode
Hi,
I have just started flashing a couple of roms and noticed that when using my desire with my car charger (1amp rated) it does not charge when doing navigation. looking on battery widget I get a max 289mw on car charge and it is showing as a USB charge. Flashed back to stock and now the car charger shows up as ac connected rather than USB. This does solve the discharging on navigation issue but I would like to run Gingerbread.
my question is...
Will this mod stop the Desire detecting and automatically entering car mode when it is plugged in? Anyone done it to their car charger?
Ta

Yes
The cable modification (shorting the data lines 2 and 3, instructions at http://winhlp.com/node/855 ) will switch any HTC smartphone into AC charging mode.
But I am totally stumped as to why you can achieve AC charging mode without this mod. I know of no other way the HTC phone could detect a car USB charger. I'm tempted to ask you to repeat the test.
If anybody here has any idea, please respond. To the best of my knowledge no USB device is allowed to pull more than 0.5 A from USB power, lest the power source switch off according to the USB specification. The only exception is that the device gets positive information that it is connected to a charger that can deliver a higher current, and for HTC devices that is signalled by a shortcut between the two data lines.

Thank you. I would rather not check again I did look for a while. Reverted back to stock for now.
It is a Huawei curly lead car charger with a 1a rating. The strangest thing is that with my stock Vodafone rom it detects as AC power on battery widget but on both leedroid and RCMix it shows up as a USB charge and I get the power issue. On all three roms it detects car mode correctly (Which is good!).
I was just wondering if the mod would also break the car mode detection?
I can't find anything on how car mode is detected!

Fast Charging USB Cable for Cars / laptop

Hey all,
The ONE gets too hot... Solved :good:
The ONE charges slowly... Solved :good:
My HTC ONE was charging very VERY slowly since I got it... And it was actually discharging slowly if plugged in and using navigation in the car..
Now, I don't have the original HTC car charger and its a stupid amount to pay for that...
I've used over a dozen of cables and chargers but none of them would charge properly...
Ordered this earlier this week and it got delivered today
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=321159008835&ssPageName=ADME:L:eek:C:GB:3160
Looks decent, and I would highly recommend it for anyone having charging problems with universal USB chargers.
Just tested it, I fired up Waze (which I usually use), Mobile Data, GPS, Skype in background and anything that would run in the background using as much power as it can .... Streaming Music over Bluetooth.. Screen was ON all the time with MAX brightness
My ONE slowly (really slowly) went from 53% to 54% ..:laugh::laugh:
Regarding ROM etc (if it makes any difference) , I'm running Viper One with ElementalX Kernel. 384Mhz Min and 1674 Max. Undervolted to -50mV & Fastcharge ... plus an Air Vent mounted phone holder for cooling features .. The ONE gets too hot
I can finally use the ONE as a proper nav, without having to worry about switching the screen off every now and then...

Sounds good, and in what charger you use?

Yet again, I must explain that cables do not differ if they are similar quality wise. All certified cables should be 24+ AWG btw. Don't be fooled by things like "fast charging." It mostly depends on the charger you're using. (Unless of course, you bought a crappy cable). Also should add that a 4 pin vs a 5 pin cable also creates a difference in charging time.

Kraize said:
Yet again, I must explain that cables do not differ if they are similar quality wise. All certified cables should be 24+ AWG btw. Don't be fooled by things like "fast charging." It mostly depends on the charger you're using. (Unless of course, you bought a crappy cable). Also should add that a 4 pin vs a 5 pin cable also creates a difference in charging time.
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That cable shorts the data lines to trick the phone into thinking it is connecting to a compatible charger. Any charger that supply 5V and >=1A should be fine with that cable. I would NEVER use the cable on a computer as the phone will try to pull as much as if it was on a wall charger some where around 750mA - 1A.

rancor22 said:
That cable shorts the data lines to trick the phone into thinking it is connecting to a compatible charger. Any charger that supply 5V and >=1A should be fine with that cable. I would NEVER use the cable on a computer as the phone will try to pull as much as if it was on a wall charger some where around 750mA - 1A.
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Which in turn would probably fry all your usb ports.

Kraize said:
Which in turn would probably fry all your usb ports.
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Yep, might not fry a powered USB 3.0 port but don't try this.

Many people (inc me) do not know that there are 24 AWG cable, and would use a stupid standard micro usb cable in to charge the phone in vain ...
Mpro747 said:
Sounds good, and in what charger you use?
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A standard USB port mounted on Cig lighter socket. It does the job right now
Kraize said:
Which in turn would probably fry all your usb ports.
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Click to collapse

Neelesh35 said:
Many people (inc me) do not know that there are 24 AWG cable, and would use a stupid standard micro usb cable in to charge the phone in vain ...
A standard USB port mounted on Cig lighter socket. It does the job right now
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you guys might wanna look at this sweet babe, you will know exactly how many hours to fully charge ur HTC One :silly:
http://www.thepowerpot.com/solar-power-optimized-practical-meter

hmm interesting, but if the 24awg cable has a potential of frying your usb port, guess what this one will do
Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk 4

Neelesh35 said:
Many people (inc me) do not know that there are 24 AWG cable, and would use a stupid standard micro usb cable in to charge the phone in vain ...
A standard USB port mounted on Cig lighter socket. It does the job right now
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The 24AWG wire used in the cable does nothing for helping your phone charge faster, its the fact that the two data lines are shorted in the cable. This tells the device that it is connected to a dedicated charger, even if it is not, and that it can pull however much current it needs.

Why would you buy a cable for this? Get the right charger in the first place and you wouldn't have this issue. Actual proper phone chargers already short the data pins (in fact, I'm surprised you found one that doesn't). Now you have a cable that cannot be used for anything other than charging.
Also, to whoever said this would fry USB ports: no, it wouldn't. Even with shorted data pins, the host machine still won't put any more power out than it is specified to. In fact, this means that using this cable, connected to a computer, would result in it charging SLOWER than if you allowed the phone to negotiate with the computer for faster charging.

Vincent Law said:
Why would you buy a cable for this? Get the right charger in the first place and you wouldn't have this issue. Actual proper phone chargers already short the data pins (in fact, I'm surprised you found one that doesn't). Now you have a cable that cannot be used for anything other than charging.
Also, to whoever said this would fry USB ports: no, it wouldn't. Even with shorted data pins, the host machine still won't put any more power out than it is specified to. In fact, this means that using this cable, connected to a computer, would result in it charging SLOWER than if you allowed the phone to negotiate with the computer for faster charging.
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Actual computers don't do a good job of limiting current they assume the device will satay within USB spec.

rancor22 said:
Actual computers don't do a good job of limiting current they assume the device will satay within USB spec.
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That couldn't be further from the truth. Windows even keeps track of the actual loads (it'll tell you when your USB host reports it cannot provide more power). The host decides how much power to provide the device anyway, it's not up to the device. If the device asks for 50 amps, the PC isn't going to try and serve that up. That would be insane and dangerous.
What it WILL do is start with an initial very low current (like 20mA IIRC). The device has its USB client chip powered by this, and uses it to negotiate. The device will then request however much current it needs. However, USB 2.0 spec states that the maximum is 500mA. The device can request more, but it by no means may expect to receive it. The PC may respond and say that it will only serve the maximum. Often it will respond by saying it will provide as much as it is capable (for some laptops and such, this could be as low as 500-600mA). The device must then deal with what it is given (it can use less, but it CANNOT draw more). Note that host devices can actually provide as little as 100mA if available power is limited.
However, many PCs nowadays are designed for charging, and provide over a full amp. They will do so during negotiation. If you use a charge only cable, you're gambling that the PC will go into a high current (AKA "take as much as we can offer") mode. Not all will do so. Some will follow the actual spec, and force the device into a lower power (100mA max, IIRC) current state, leaving you with basically no charging capability.

Vincent Law said:
That couldn't be further from the truth. Windows even keeps track of the actual loads (it'll tell you when your USB host reports it cannot provide more power). The host decides how much power to provide the device anyway, it's not up to the device. If the device asks for 50 amps, the PC isn't going to try and serve that up. That would be insane and dangerous.
What it WILL do is start with an initial very low current (like 20mA IIRC). The device has its USB client chip powered by this, and uses it to negotiate. The device will then request however much current it needs. However, USB 2.0 spec states that the maximum is 500mA. The device can request more, but it by no means may expect to receive it. The PC may respond and say that it will only serve the maximum. Often it will respond by saying it will provide as much as it is capable (for some laptops and such, this could be as low as 500-600mA). The device must then deal with what it is given (it can use less, but it CANNOT draw more). Note that host devices can actually provide as little as 100mA if available power is limited.
However, many PCs nowadays are designed for charging, and provide over a full amp. They will do so during negotiation. If you use a charge only cable, you're gambling that the PC will go into a high current (AKA "take as much as we can offer") mode. Not all will do so. Some will follow the actual spec, and force the device into a lower power (100mA max, IIRC) current state, leaving you with basically no charging capability.
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Windows keeps a record of what devices have requested, not what they are currently drawing. When you use the cable you are bypassing all if this( the software/embedded enumeration and negotiation for power) and then you are just relying on the hardware current limits. In an inexpensive system and possible even expensive ones the hardware probably only as one current limit if it has one at all. Lets say the USB protection IC as a current limit of 1A. A device that is connected with the charging cable is just going to pull current as if its hooked up to a wall adapter for this example let just say the phone draws 900mA. The dangerous part about this is that the computer has no idea this is going on, if the device doesn't enumerate the computer will never know its drawing current unless it trips an overcurrent limit.

rancor22 said:
Windows keeps a record of what devices have requested, not what they are currently drawing. When you use the cable you are bypassing all if this( the software/embedded enumeration and negotiation for power) and then you are just relying on the hardware current limits. In an inexpensive system and possible even expensive ones the hardware probably only as one current limit if it has one at all. Lets say the USB protection IC as a current limit of 1A. A device that is connected with the charging cable is just going to pull current as if its hooked up to a wall adapter for this example let just say the phone draws 900mA. The dangerous part about this is that the computer has no idea this is going on, if the device doesn't enumerate the computer will never know its drawing current unless it trips an overcurrent limit.
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Your entire post runs on the assumption that the USB host, for some reason, would have no way of controlling its power output other than an overcurrent limiter. Not only is this NOT what the USB spec states, but it's also so hilariously dangerous that if it were true, you'd be hearing about it all the time. It'd mean you could create a device that instantly pulls maximum current from the system, frying any system without an adequate overcurrent limiter.

Vincent Law said:
Your entire post runs on the assumption that the USB host, for some reason, would have no way of controlling its power output other than an overcurrent limiter. Not only is this NOT what the USB spec states, but it's also so hilariously dangerous that if it were true, you'd be hearing about it all the time. It'd mean you could create a device that instantly pulls maximum current from the system, frying any system without an adequate overcurrent limiter.
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I am not disagreeing with you that hosts can control and meter power but it does that by assuming the end device will also follow usb spec and is listening to what it is saying. So yes what I am saying is that for a device that does not follow USB spec and does not enumerate the only current control it receives is a hardware current limit. I don't know the whole usb spec well I know battery charging specifications so if this is completely wrong can you point me to the part of the USB specifications where it says the host must limit current draw. In a perfect system the hardware current limit will change as the host specifies how much power the device is allowed to draw, but more likely the protection IC(s) are just there in the case of a short, esd, or a device that is supplying power to the host (reverse current).

Bought a HTC CC-C200 some time ago for my HTC Desire where it did a nice job. Now with the One I encounter the problem that it discharges when being used (navi, scanning, ...).
Is there any newer original car charging cable that I can use? I do not want any 3rd party china cables

bliblablub said:
Bought a HTC CC-C200 some time ago for my HTC Desire where it did a nice job. Now with the One I encounter the problem that it discharges when being used (navi, scanning, ...).
Is there any newer original car charging cable that I can use? I do not want any 3rd party china cables
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I just bought a RocketFish USB car charger and cable From BestBuy. It charges wicked fast, even when using navi and or streaming. I believe is is 10 watts and 2.1 amp output. That adapter will probably fix ya up, I used to have the same problem but not any more
Sent from my gimped not yet unlocked Verizon One

Type c charging cables

Hello all. I have a quick question. I have bought a type c charging cable that has just arrived, it was sent from in my country to my location in less then 3 days. Off ebay And after purchase I read about how type c charging cables can destroy your devices if you buy a knock off, or a cheap cable or not made properly, by any means this cable was 13.00 AUD. It's 3 meters and it looks very thick and quality looks good. It is generic though. No branding.... So I'm wondering if it would be okay to just use this as a charging cable, and use the original for File transfers. I also have a Spigen cable on the way but I do not want to wait to use this one. Is there any chance that this will be okay to use?... Attaching a photo of the cable

The htc 10 doesn't use USB charging; it uses Quick Charge 3.0.
USB charging has its standards, separate from the connectors and separate from Qualcomm's standards.
Qualcomm states that QC works regardless of cable and connector. However, the htc 10 is picky about the cable and I've not found a rhyme or reason for it. I have a Type C-to- A cable that won't QC but several micro cables that will with a micro-to-C adaptor.

Basically the cable must have a 56k ohm resistor in the type c connector which tells the phone how much power to draw to prevent over current. Usually this is signified by a longer plug and the resistor should be stated in the ad if you can remember where you bought it from. From eye balling the cable you photographed it looks fine. I think it's more of an issue with Nexus phones anyway since the 10 uses a different standard in order to maintain compatibility with qc3.0.

More accurately, the resistor tells the USB-C device that it's hooked up to a legacy "device". Type C to anything being legacy. Anything but type C weren't "designed to handle" 3A of current that the USB Power Delivery can output at 5V.
So if you have a Nexus 6P or a Pixel or whatever that uses USB PD:
if you use a type C to type A cable with a 56kOhm resistor, the phone is going to know that this is a legacy device and it won't attempt to draw more than the "Default USB Power" which is 5V0.5A for USB 1.0/2.0 and 5V0.9A for USB 3.x.
But of course the device will also look past it and see what output current the charger actually advertises it is capable of and then charges at that current the charger is capable of..
But, here's the big problem.
What if you use a type C to type A cable with a 10kOhm or 22kOhm resistor?
That cable is going to tell the device that it's
a) not connected to a legacy device (56kOhm resistor would mean legacy)
b) it IS connected to 5V3A or 5V1.5A (10kOhm/22kOhm resistor respectively) output.
It's going to try and draw 3A of current if the cable has a 10kOhm resistor in there, whether or not the charger can actually output that.
Danger here is that different chargers will respond to that differently.
The charger can either fail spectacularly (read: explode, catch on fire, something bad) or it will just trigger OCP (over current) and not charge if it has the protection or it will just try and cope with it delivering as much current as it can and potentially overheat and fail in some fashion.
Imagine hooking up your Nexus 6P or Pixel to your laptop with a "bad" type C to type A cable.. Those ports are not going to be able to handle that kind of power unless they're something special sauce.
For a little bit more cohesive explanation, read this
http://www.androidauthority.com/usb-type-c-and-3-1-explained-656552/
As for our device, we don't use USB PD. Some have said that the HTC 10 is compliant with it but I don't know if that's true or not.
However we use Quick Charge. Quick Charge doesn't look for resistors, it looks for the other chip inside the charger and talks with that chip, essentially doing a digital handshake before they initiate quick charging.
That prevents the charger from outputting anything higher than 5V unless the device specifically asks for it.
So, in theory, ANY data cable should be perfectly compatible with QC.
Data cable meaning that the D+ and D-, teh data, connectors are hooked up.
QC performs the digital handshake, and subsequent voltage/current adjustments, by talking across the D+ and D- conductors.
If you have a "charge only" cable or a PortaPow "data block" adapter, it means that only the V+ and V- connectors are hooked up and as a result QC chip in your 10 can't talk to the charger to negotiate the QC.
As for why some type C to type A cables don't support quick charge. I have no freaking idea.
I've got one cheap C-A USB 3.0 cable that I bought from ebay and it's a weird cable...
First time I tried charging it was in the car with a dual port (A) QC3.0 charger. Phone said slow charge, for faster results use the original charger. Didn't try again.
With the stock charger I'm testing at the moment, I first got 1.8A (after 1A>1.3A>1.8A over a minute). Unplug and plug it the other way around I got 1.7A and then it dropped to 1.4A. Third time I plugged it in the same way I plugged it the first time and now it said slow charge.. Plug it again the same way and now it charges.
Could it be that the cable either has a 10kOhm or a 22kOhm resistor in there? Maybe. Idk. Don't have means to test it right now, but I'll probably gut the cable later and measure it when I have time.
Moral of the story: come on guys, buy good quality cables from reliable brands for charging. They're not expensive.. Aukey, Anker, PortaPow, you name it. There's a lot of them out there.
I'm personally using the PortaPow cable for charging my 10, only 1 meter length available at this moment but if you want longer or shorter lengths, message them. They'll make them if there's enough interest.
http://www.portablepowersupplies.co.uk/portapow-charge-sync-usb-c-cable/

Thankyou for your help guys I've decided to wait for the Spigen charger

lagittaja said:
Moral of the story: come on guys, buy good quality cables from reliable brands for charging. They're not expensive.. Aukey, Anker, PortaPow, you name it. There's a lot of them out there.
I'm personally using the PortaPow cable for charging my 10, only 1 meter length available at this moment but if you want longer or shorter lengths, message them. They'll make them if there's enough interest.
http://www.portablepowersupplies.co.uk/portapow-charge-sync-usb-c-cable/
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Click to collapse
Except that these guys don't make the cable that I need (or I just haven't been able to locate one).
I need a ~6-ft/2m cable with a 90-degree-to-the-front/back elbow on the USB Type C connector like the one shown here:
...and black...no goofy colors.

I thought I knew the correct cable to purchase (I only bought this phone 5 weeks ago and I need to buy 1-2 backup charging cables.
I always bought cables from Monoprice.com (for my M8 anyway) because they were decent quality, they had 6" lengths available, they were pretty cheap, and they had goofy colors (I'll take anything to break up my day a bit).
But now I am not sure which cable is correct. Is the USB version irrelevant with the HTC QuickCharge functionality? So I can get either v2.0, v2.1, or v3.0 USB-C to USB A?? Also, I will go to another vendor if need be, but most of the cables at this website do not state a resistance—just voltage and amps.
So this would be one I might get because it seems OK...
http://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=103&cp_id=10303&cs_id=1030319&p_id=14933&seq=1&format=2
If it isn't showing the resistance should I shop someplace else?

Vmo x said:
Thankyou for your help guys I've decided to wait for the Spigen charger
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Why do you want to wait for Spige charger which is not QuickCharge 3.0 dedicated charger like your oroginal HTC OEM charger?
Buy an Aukey QC 3.0 chargers, they are very reasonably priced and high quality. Also, BlitzWolf produces a valid Type C cables with 56k resistor. I personally use them with Aukey and HTC charger and everything is perfect and very good quality.
syntropic said:
So this would be one I might get because it seems OK...
http://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=103&cp_id=10303&cs_id=1030319&p_id=14933&seq=1&format=2
If it isn't showing the resistance should I shop someplace else?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Here is the list of verified and proper Type C cables. I personally recommend BlitzWolf - metal connectors, braided cables, very good and robust quality.
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1wJwqv3rTNmORXz-XJsQaXK1dl8I91V4-eP_sfNVNzbA/edit#gid=0

cavist said:
Here is the list of verified and proper Type C cables. I personally recommend BlitzWolf - metal connectors, braided cables, very good and robust quality.
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1wJwqv3rTNmORXz-XJsQaXK1dl8I91V4-eP_sfNVNzbA/edit#gid=0
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you! However, can you qualify the user of the word "proper"? What aspect makes them "proper"?
Sent from my HTC 10 using XDA Labs

Proper means they all have 56k resistor, just like jesus said in the bible. So they are fully compatible with HTC10 and can be used with any QuickCharger or USB PD charger without risk of drawing too much power resulting in explosion. 56k resistor is the main key here and mr Benson, a Google engineer working on devices using USB PD specs which *need* a proper 56k resistor Type C cable, tests himself various cables using a hardware tester and posting reviews about good and bad cables.

cavist said:
Proper means they all have 56k resistor, just like jesus said in the bible. So they are fully compatible with HTC10 and can be used with any QuickCharger or USB PD charger without risk of drawing too much power resulting in explosion. 56k resistor is the main key here and mr Benson, a Google engineer working on devices using USB PD specs which *need* a proper 56k resistor Type C cable, tests himself various cables using a hardware tester and posting reviews about good and bad cables.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Except that this all deals with USB PD charging, not Qualcomm's Quick Charge, which is its own thing.
cf. https://www.qualcomm.com/products/snapdragon/quick-charge/faq
Q6: Does it matter what type of charging cable is used with a Quick Charge adapter?
A: Quick Charge is designed to be connector- and current-independent. Quick Charge is designed to be compatible with a variety of formats, including:
USB Type-A
USB micro
USB Type-C
Proprietary connectors
Quick Charge high-voltage operation is designed to minimize charging issues associated with long or thin cables, allowing for a superior charging experience, independent of cable type or cable current capability.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
cf. http://thewirecutter.com/blog/quick-charge-usb-c/
I don't like that I can't find specifics on how QC3 works exactly since I have a cable that breaks it.

Rolo42 said:
Except that this all deals with USB PD charging, not Qualcomm's Quick Charge, which is its own thing.
cf. https://www.qualcomm.com/products/snapdragon/quick-charge/faq
cf. http://thewirecutter.com/blog/quick-charge-usb-c/
I don't like that I can't find specifics on how QC3 works exactly since I have a cable that breaks it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Unfortunately you did not read the big post on this page along with the article about delivering power over usb cable.
Both QC and USB PD require cable with 56k resistor to work properly. Hence the cable for Google Pixel or HTC10 is the same. Each standard deliver power in its own way over the same cable.

cavist said:
Unfortunately you did not read the big post on this page along with the article about delivering power over usb cable.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Rather than make accusations based on assumptions, you could point out what you think I missed. I did read all the posts and links and here is what I got:
As for our device, we don't use USB PD.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
As for why some type C to type A cables don't support quick charge. I have no freaking idea.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
cavist said:
Each standard deliver power in its own way over the same cable.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
"It's own way" -- correct. USB-PD requires 56k termination for legacy device compatibility. Our devices use QC, not USB-PD.
cavist said:
Both QC and USB PD require cable with 56k resistor to work properly.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If this is true, it goes against Qualcomm's specs that I linked that you may or may not have read for comprehension. Qualcomm states that they have no/zero/nada/nicht/nill/null/zilch cable requirements for QC. Also, QC predates USB-PD. The two have nothing to do with each other.
More from the big post I allegedly did not read:
However we use Quick Charge. Quick Charge doesn't look for resistors, it looks for the other chip inside the charger and talks with that chip, essentially doing a digital handshake before they initiate quick charging.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Do you have an authoritative source that shows that the 56k terminator is necessary for QC3 to work on the htc 10?
I cannot find it on Qualcomm's site or htc's site. Google Pixel and Nexus 6P sites are not authoritative sources for the htc 10 or Qualcomm Quick Charge.

I did not accuse of anything, I am not a prosecutor.
99% of cables used to charge your and mine HTC are USB A (2.0)to USB C cables. The resistor is needed so you will not draw to much current via USB A connector which is not rated for 3A. Lower value resistor will force to draw to much from USB 2.0 spec connector and cable. Simple as that. So your digital handshake between chips is worth essentially nothing if they will indeed greet and meet over cable that is not rated to pass a 3A high current which will lead to fry something.
I suggest to read the discussion in comments section on Benson Leung G+ profile. Do not get me wrong, I wasted my time to go all over it and I do not see point to go back couple of articles again just to point a few most important comments by Benson. You could do the same, because it does not matter if you believe me or not. Bottom line is, you need a 56k resistor USB A to USB C cable for HTC10. Same cable which was shipped to you by HTC in the box. If you do not believe, then take a sharp razor and disassemble your cable. They're cheap so you will get yourself a brand new one very fast.
So, check your oem cable, ask Qualcomm and HTC via mail why you need a cable with 56k resistor. Simple as that.

cavist said:
99% of cables used to charge your and mine HTC are USB A (2.0)to USB C cables. The resistor is needed so you will not draw to much current via USB A connector which is not rated for 3A. Lower value resistor will force to draw to much from USB 2.0 spec connector and cable. Simple as that. So your digital handshake between chips is worth essentially nothing if they will indeed greet and meet over cable that is not rated to pass a 3A high current which will lead to fry something.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The conclusion you drew is faulty. The pull-up resistor is needed to protect legacy equipment; it has nothing to with Quick Charge or cables/connectors being "rated for 3A" (they aren't--chargers are).
cavist said:
I suggest to read the discussion in comments section on Benson Leung G+ profile.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have and they are all dealing with USB charging protocols, not Quick Charge.
cavist said:
Bottom line is, you need a 56k resistor USB A to USB C cable for HTC10. Same cable which was shipped to you by HTC in the box. If you do not believe, then take a sharp razor and disassemble your cable. They're cheap so you will get yourself a brand new one very fast.
So, check your oem cable, ask Qualcomm and HTC via mail why you need a cable with 56k resistor. Simple as that.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So, no, you do not have an authoritative source for Quick Charge cable compatibility for htc 10.
Did you read the Qualcomm link I sent? It does not require the pull-up resistor. htc FAQ only says "buy our [only one, short, overpriced] OEM cable"; htc tech support never replied to my query.

Ok, it is no use to continue this further. Everybody will do as they want and will be happy. You can recommend cables without or with any other lower resistor and I will recommend with 56k as I did before that actually are working.
Still I can wait for your cable disassembly as last proof that I am completely wrong but I think that will not change anything at all in this discussion.

USB cable for connecting to PC

I have a fairly old laptop, and it only has the USB A connector on it
Any idea which USB C to USB A data cable I can use to connect Moto Z Play to Windows 7 laptop?
thanks!

animefans said:
I have a fairly old laptop, and it only has the USB A connector on it
Any idea which USB C to USB A data cable I can use to connect Moto Z Play to Windows 7 laptop?
thanks!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I haven't received mine yet but I assume an A to micro plugged into a Micro female to C male adapter will work just fine for charge and xfers. But again, I haven't tested it yet. Both can be had for cheap on ebay.

KrisM22 said:
I haven't received mine yet but I assume an A to mini plugged into a mini to C adapter will work just fine for charge and xfers. But again, I haven't tested it yet. Both can be had for cheap on ebay.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This is my first time dealing with USB C cable, but I have read (headline mostly) that USB C cable is pretty picky, and some can even fried the device
If you don't mind, can you let me know your experience with the adapter?
Thanks!

animefans said:
This is my first time dealing with USB C cable, but I have read (headline mostly) that USB C cable is pretty picky, and some can even fried the device
If you don't mind, can you let me know your experience with the adapter?
Thanks!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, my first time with USB-C connector.
1. important change in my first answer - change "mini" to "micro". (I keep confusing the 2 in my speak! I have tons of "A to micro" cables lying around to charge things like my cell phones etc. So I got and ordered adapters which go micro female to C male. I have no idea if they will be problematic.
2. been lazy so finally ordered a couple cables on ebay with description "USB-C 3.1 Type C Male to 3.0 Type A Male Sync Data Charger Fast Charging Cable" - the important thing for me being the 3.0 type A. Even though realistically, I believe we are only using 4 conductors on a regular-speed power charge or data xfer. But the high speed charge probably uses more, but that's a separate cable attached to the wall wart charger.
3. as to them frying things , i googled and found many many many reports about that one incident. I actually expected more. What you could do to minimize this is eyeball connectors before you plug them in, and possibly shut phone off (and unplug charger) and plug C connector in to phone just to make sure it slides in easily. I believe the only USB connectors I have ever had problems with were very recent: micro male attached to the end of some cheap 10-20$ "endoscopes". Really had problem getting them in to my Moto G3, but no shorts.
Lightening can strike anywhere and anytime. We can just do our best to be careful!
Certainly I'll let you know my experience though I have yet to see the phone hit the post office.

KrisM22 said:
Yes, my first time with USB-C connector.
1. important change in my first answer - change "mini" to "micro". (I keep confusing the 2 in my speak! I have tons of "A to micro" cables lying around to charge things like my cell phones etc. So I got and ordered adapters which go micro female to C male. I have no idea if they will be problematic.
2. been lazy so finally ordered a couple cables on ebay with description "USB-C 3.1 Type C Male to 3.0 Type A Male Sync Data Charger Fast Charging Cable" - the important thing for me being the 3.0 type A. Even though realistically, I believe we are only using 4 conductors on a regular-speed power charge or data xfer. But the high speed charge probably uses more, but that's a separate cable attached to the wall wart charger.
3. as to them frying things , i googled and found many many many reports about that one incident. I actually expected more. What you could do to minimize this is eyeball connectors before you plug them in, and possibly shut phone off (and unplug charger) and plug C connector in to phone just to make sure it slides in easily. I believe the only USB connectors I have ever had problems with were very recent: micro male attached to the end of some cheap 10-20$ "endoscopes". Really had problem getting them in to my Moto G3, but no shorts.
Lightening can strike anywhere and anytime. We can just do our best to be careful!
Certainly I'll let you know my experience though I have yet to see the phone hit the post office.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for sharing your perspective on this topic!
I will also do my own research as well, and see what I learn
It might not be as bad as I think/perceive!

animefans said:
Thanks for sharing your perspective on this topic!
I will also do my own research as well, and see what I learn
It might not be as bad as I think/perceive!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have the unit and have done a ton of plugging/un- and though I notice the connection is slightly stiff, I have noticed no problems with the USB-C.

KrisM22 said:
I have the unit and have done a ton of plugging/un- and though I notice the connection is slightly stiff, I have noticed no problems with the USB-C.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have not do very thorough reading, but from what I gather, the issue with USB-C is the potential for USB-C device (maybe 3 amps) to pull more current than the USB-A port can supply (most likely 2 amps), thus frying the USB-A port
A USB-C to USB-A cable that has 56 ohm resistor will avoid this issue by forcing the client (usb C device) to draw as much power as the host (usb A port) can supply
Here are the pages that I read on this topic
https://www.androidauthority.com/best-usb-type-c-cables-682801/
https://www.extremetech.com/computi...-and-other-usb-devices-as-quickly-as-possible
https://www.laptopmag.com/articles/how-to-find-safe-usb-type-c-cables

animefans said:
I have not do very thorough reading, but from what I gather, the issue with USB-C is the potential for USB-C device (maybe 3 amps) to pull more current than the USB-A port can supply (most likely 2 amps), thus frying the USB-A port
A USB-C to USB-A cable that has 56 ohm resistor will avoid this issue by forcing the client (usb C device) to draw as much power as the host (usb A port) can supply
Here are the pages that I read on this topic
https://www.androidauthority.com/best-usb-type-c-cables-682801/
https://www.extremetech.com/computi...-and-other-usb-devices-as-quickly-as-possible
https://www.laptopmag.com/articles/how-to-find-safe-usb-type-c-cables
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for this. A close read of that indicates to me that there is going to be a ton of arguing over what is safe, and some burnt out 5v power rails in some, especially older, computers.
The mention of 56Kohm resister in cables has caused some cable sellers to advertise that, but having that, in and of itself, I believe doesn't do anything - you need load balancing circuitry in both the phone AND the charger to utilize it.
I read this quote with amusement "A good cable uses a deep-draw extrusion method that produces a Type C plug that is a single piece of metal and does not have a visible seam on one side of the plug,". My phone came with a factory Motorola hi speed charger that is rated for 5v 3a (15w), and it's C plug has just such a "bad" seam. So many people make such blanket statements that simply are not true.
I looked at one of my wall-wart chargers(this particular one is stamped Samsung) and it is rated at 5v, 0.7a (3.5w), so it's a good bet that if I plug my old A to micro to micro-to-C adapter to phone, that nothing bad will happen. Another one (Moto) rated at .8a. A 3rd one that came with my Moto G3 is rated .55a .
1)So if one goes to ebay and buys a wall wart rated at 5a and uses old cables and adapter to plug it to a Moto Z, what will happen? Dunno!
2) I have had my Moto z plugged very often to my computer with just such an arrangement and have not noticed any "fast charging".
I have a huge 850w PSU in my computer, but that does not mean that all that amperage available on the rail is permitted through the USB connection. Intel offers some ideas and I would bet that most current mobos have such limiting circuitry: I am sure older (than 10 yrs?) do not, or at least not as effective.
http://www.usb.org/developers/docs/whitepapers/power_delivery_motherboards.pdf
The phone also has smart limiting circuitry, but of course I don't know what it is.
Am I more in jeopardy with an old A to micro cable with C adapter, or a new A to C cable. Dunno. Certainly any wall wart should be from the/a phone mfgr, or rated below an amp or so. I don't know if you can make this phone fast charge for 30 min if it's rated for 3a, without an official charger. The remainder of the charge time is governed by the phone to be at a much slower rate.
With this new phone, I have yet to connect it to a wall wart other than for 5 min to the official one just to make sure it worked, and I don't recall any high speed message. It winds up getting a 100% charge just by being plugged into my computer since I am doing file transfers and the like.
As to the plugs themselves, you can run much more amperage through an A (few wide conductors) than a C (many very thin conductors).
A very great deal is being made of this one incident. It is hard for me to understand how a different cable can burn out a computer. You can run 10 amps through any cable (though it will get more than a tad warm!), but amps in a cable is not a problem. It's the governor, or lack thereof, in the source (wall wart or computer) and the target (phone or another computer). If the computer presents a short circuit to the cable, something will surely fry, but no device, these days, should ever do that.
A cable (they all are made in China, but there are many factorys there with widely varying QC), with an M stamp on it or not, is still just 4 wires in a sheath. If it is poorly made, or the connectors at the ends are poorly made or poorly attached, there will be trouble.
Okay, that's enough words for this post, but, for sure, this topic will be around forever!
EDIT: C type connectors have been in use on phones for years now. Why have we not heard of any phones destroyed???????

KrisM22 said:
Thanks for this. A close read of that indicates to me that there is going to be a ton of arguing over what is safe, and some burnt out 5v power rails in some, especially older, computers.
The mention of 56Kohm resister in cables has caused some cable sellers to advertise that, but having that, in and of itself, I believe doesn't do anything - you need load balancing circuitry in both the phone AND the charger to utilize it.
I read this quote with amusement "A good cable uses a deep-draw extrusion method that produces a Type C plug that is a single piece of metal and does not have a visible seam on one side of the plug,". My phone came with a factory Motorola hi speed charger that is rated for 5v 3a (15w), and it's C plug has just such a "bad" seam. So many people make such blanket statements that simply are not true.
I looked at one of my wall-wart chargers(this particular one is stamped Samsung) and it is rated at 5v, 0.7a (3.5w), so it's a good bet that if I plug my old A to micro to micro-to-C adapter to phone, that nothing bad will happen. Another one (Moto) rated at .8a. A 3rd one that came with my Moto G3 is rated .55a .
1)So if one goes to ebay and buys a wall wart rated at 5a and uses old cables and adapter to plug it to a Moto Z, what will happen? Dunno!
2) I have had my Moto z plugged very often to my computer with just such an arrangement and have not noticed any "fast charging".
I have a huge 850w PSU in my computer, but that does not mean that all that amperage available on the rail is permitted through the USB connection. Intel offers some ideas and I would bet that most current mobos have such limiting circuitry: I am sure older (than 10 yrs?) do not, or at least not as effective.
http://www.usb.org/developers/docs/whitepapers/power_delivery_motherboards.pdf
The phone also has smart limiting circuitry, but of course I don't know what it is.
Am I more in jeopardy with an old A to micro cable with C adapter, or a new A to C cable. Dunno. Certainly any wall wart should be from the/a phone mfgr, or rated below an amp or so. I don't know if you can make this phone fast charge for 30 min if it's rated for 3a, without an official charger. The remainder of the charge time is governed by the phone to be at a much slower rate.
With this new phone, I have yet to connect it to a wall wart other than for 5 min to the official one just to make sure it worked, and I don't recall any high speed message. It winds up getting a 100% charge just by being plugged into my computer since I am doing file transfers and the like.
As to the plugs themselves, you can run much more amperage through an A (few wide conductors) than a C (many very thin conductors).
A very great deal is being made of this one incident. It is hard for me to understand how a different cable can burn out a computer. You can run 10 amps through any cable (though it will get more than a tad warm!), but amps in a cable is not a problem. It's the governor, or lack thereof, in the source (wall wart or computer) and the target (phone or another computer). If the computer presents a short circuit to the cable, something will surely fry, but no device, these days, should ever do that.
A cable (they all are made in China, but there are many factorys there with widely varying QC), with an M stamp on it or not, is still just 4 wires in a sheath. If it is poorly made, or the connectors at the ends are poorly made or poorly attached, there will be trouble.
Okay, that's enough words for this post, but, for sure, this topic will be around forever!
EDIT: C type connectors have been in use on phones for years now. Why have we not heard of any phones destroyed???????
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Certainly a good read, and another perspective on this matter!
I can't argue with anything you said
I am also in no position to offer any additional opinion, since I don't know squat on this topic. My first USB C device
But you do touch on an excellent point: not a whole lot of reported issue with damage related to USB C.
As statistics goes, 1 sample is not representitive
It is a data point, and that's a fact, but you can't draw solid conclusion from 1 incident

animefans said:
Certainly a good read, and another perspective on this matter!
I can't argue with anything you said
I am also in no position to offer any additional opinion, since I don't know squat on this topic. My first USB C device
But you do touch on an excellent point: not a whole lot of reported issue with damage related to USB C.
As statistics goes, 1 sample is not representitive
It is a data point, and that's a fact, but you can't draw solid conclusion from 1 incident
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
On the other hand I will try to get a 4-5' cable that supposedly has 56Kohm resisters in it...

KrisM22 said:
On the other hand I will try to get a 4-5' cable that supposedly has 56Kohm resisters in it...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
For science?

animefans said:
For science?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Actually for possible protection of my old wall warts. If I understand correctly, using a 56Kohm cable keeps current low (slow charge). I'd hate to think what my wall wart would look like it my Moto z tried to pull 3 amps out of it!!!
EDIT - It also just seems a prudent thing to do...
Do you have any preferences?
I just ordered these on ebay: "USB C Cable (2-Pack 6ft) Anker PowerLine USB C to USB 3.0 Cable with 56k Ohm Pul"

What is Superfast Charging actually?

So what is actually superfast charging? Is it just Samsung's term for USB-PD? Does our phone support USB-PD? I'm still relatively new to this charging protocol.. What's PDO and PPS?

Hello
This "Superfast Charging" is very similar to Qualcomm's Quick Charge technology but is somewhat more proprietary. Remember when Samsung launched 15W fast charging with the Galaxy S6? This is basically the same kind of thing, except instead of being only 15W, this is 25W. For comparison, a regular laptop charger from the last decade or so can support anywhere from 40W to 120W(Possibly more). Apple's newest MacBook Pro comes with a 96W charger. It supports USB PD (power delivery). However, USB PD has a very specific standard and is only supported over USB C cables, and has to be 60W or more. If you were to plug a USB PD cable into a device which only supports up to 25W, then the device will only draw up to 25W. The reason laptops and some devices can charge faster than others is because of the chemistry and thermal management they use. Remember, a hot Lithium Ion or Polymer battery is a very bad thing, and the faster a battery charges, the more heat it produces because of internal resistance. Though you may hear about something like Wh (watt-hours), this is very different to W (watts), since Wh is a unit to measure how much energy a cell can store, while W are generally used to measure HOW FAST a cell can charge. PPS is an acronym for Programmable Power Supply, this basically means that the power supply (or charger) is able to change the amount of current it supplies, so that it doesn't fry the circuitry of the device if it cant handle it. PDO is an acronym for Power Data Object. GSMArena has a good article about this.here
I hope I answered your question, oh and sorry I got carried away with the length , I find these kinds of thing quite interesting!

antxn_7703 said:
Hello
This "Superfast Charging" is very similar to Qualcomm's Quick Charge technology but is somewhat more proprietary. Remember when Samsung launched 15W fast charging with the Galaxy S6? This is basically the same kind of thing, except instead of being only 15W, this is 25W. For comparison, a regular laptop charger from the last decade or so can support anywhere from 40W to 120W(Possibly more). Apple's newest MacBook Pro comes with a 96W charger. It supports USB PD (power delivery). However, USB PD has a very specific standard and is only supported over USB C cables, and has to be 60W or more. If you were to plug a USB PD cable into a device which only supports up to 25W, then the device will only draw up to 25W. The reason laptops and some devices can charge faster than others is because of the chemistry and thermal management they use. Remember, a hot Lithium Ion or Polymer battery is a very bad thing, and the faster a battery charges, the more heat it produces because of internal resistance. Though you may hear about something like Wh (watt-hours), this is very different to W (watts), since Wh is a unit to measure how much energy a cell can store, while W are generally used to measure HOW FAST a cell can charge. PPS is an acronym for Programmable Power Supply, this basically means that the power supply (or charger) is able to change the amount of current it supplies, so that it doesn't fry the circuitry of the device if it cant handle it. PDO is an acronym for Power Data Object. GSMArena has a good article about this.here
I hope I answered your question, oh and sorry I got carried away with the length , I find these kinds of thing quite interesting!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you for the detailed explanation, now for my real question : can you plug a USB hub with multiple USB-A ports and a USB-C port and charge to this device through said port using any charger?

antxn_7703 said:
However, USB PD has a very specific standard and is only supported over USB C cables, and has to be 60W or more.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No, that's not true. USB-PD is flexible in it's power delivery and was designed to be one standard for all usb devices.,

GBry said:
Thank you for the detailed explanation, now for my real question : can you plug a USB hub with multiple USB-A ports and a USB-C port and charge to this device through said port using any charger?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I tried and apparently it is possible. But the charging would be standard charging.

antxn_7703 said:
...and sorry I got carried away with the length , I find these kinds of thing quite interesting!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Please get carried away some more! I love this kinda great info sharing, and it's the reason xda exists.
Thanks

James.Miller said:
No, that's not true. USB-PD is flexible in it's power delivery and was designed to be one standard for all usb devices.,
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Apologies for that, I think I got messed up with another fact I read up somewhere?
---------- Post added at 07:56 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:52 PM ----------
GBry said:
Thank you for the detailed explanation, now for my real question : can you plug a USB hub with multiple USB-A ports and a USB-C port and charge to this device through said port using any charger?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This will mostly depend on the device itself, as well as the hub you may be using. This is because we are not certain what the manufacturer intended the product for. If you have a hub like the one you described, give it a go. It should work but if it doesn't, the worst that can happen is it doesn't do anything. No biggie!
Oh and also, just make sure that the charger you'll use is powerful enough, just to make sure that your host device will actually charge at a reasonable speed.