Eonon GA2114 Remote Boot - Connected Car

Because the Android Infotainment systems all seem to take around 30 seconds to boot I have configured mine to start booting from the remote central locking system so that it has already reached the desktop screen by the time I am ready to drive.
The configuration and installation is pretty simple as long as you can follow a wiring diagram and locate the central locking control unit, it took about 2 hours on my C70T5 and works perfectly.
I have attached a diagram of the configuration and components needed. The whole installation costs less than 20 dollars (£15.00).
I hope someone will find this of interest

Related

Wifi Not Enabled after Reboot - 12 Hour Time setting Resets After Reboot

Ok, I installed the new Joying 10.1" VW head unit in my car the other day, and it's working pretty good, however I'm having a couple of issues. I installed Malaysk's ROM onto it and still working through setting everything up the way I want it, but I'm having 2 issues I can't figure out, and they are driving me nuts.
Wifi: Whenever the unit reboots, the WiFi is disabled. I have to manually re-enable it every time.
12-Hour Time: Every time the unit reboots, the time reverts back to 24-hour time.
Anyone know what I can do to fix these issues? Getting rather annoying having to switch them every time the unit boots up.
Thanks
bwhite757 said:
Anyone know what I can do to fix these issues? Getting rather annoying having to switch them every time the unit boots up.
Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sounds like the 12+ and ACC connections are swapped.
Thanks for the reply, but the unit is switched on Via Can-Bus. There is no ACC wire. It powers on and off just fine when I start and shut off the car.
bwhite757 said:
Thanks for the reply, but the unit is switched on Via Can-Bus. There is no ACC wire. It powers on and off just fine when I start and shut off the car.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Then your 12+ is not constant.
Yep it is, verified with a volt meter, 12volt constant stays hot, even went out and checked after my car had been off for over an hour just to make sure... I shouldn't have said there is no ACC wire, ACC is supplied by the Can-Bus adapter.
As far as the wiring goes, I'm confident all of that is wired correctly. I used to install car stereos as a job for 5 years, and this is the 3rd head unit in this vehicle. I'm an Android enthusiast, and definitely know my way around the system, even though this is my 1st Android head unit I've dealt with.
The 12-Hour time issue was happening before I installed the ROM on it, but the WiFi issue didn't start until after I installed the ROM.
Ok, thats a puzzler then. My observations have been that wi-fi will turn off and 24 hour set every time power is lost on the 12+ line. It seems independent of rom used, would happen on the stock rom and on a older version of Malaysk's I'm currently using.
Well, for whatever reason today the settings never reverted back. I don't remember changing anything, but I did go through every single menu and sub menu in the settings section. Oh well, fingers crossed everything stays set, because this head unit is perfect for me now!
I have the same issue + no bluetooth. I have a YINUO 1024x600 Quad-Core RK3188 and it's doing the WIFI OFF, 24 HR, NO BT.

Carperformance.se Uconnect Android system help.

I am hoping I can find some help in here with a couple problems I am running into on this system that would make it so much better to me.
The system is basically an Android box utilizing the touch screen and monitor of my Uconnect 8.4 head unit. The naming in the settings is rk3188 and is running on KitKat 4.4.4, so it is some variant of the Android TV boxes. If there are other specs or info that are needed to help in possibly fixing my issues please let me know.
Issue 1: although not major, there is no option to have OK Google from any screen. Having this option for a car system is obviously something helpful. In the settings of the Google App trying to access the menu for OK Google detection doesn't work, so I can't even get to the screen where that option lives. I have the most up to date version of Google App and Google Play Services. I have Google searched on ways to fix this but nothing has brought that ability up. I know Android version 4.4.4 was capable of this. There was another app that utilized Googles voice engine and allowed this function but Google made him stop using their servers and killed that as an option.
Issue 2: this is the biggest bother to me and I could not find anything even related to what's happening in my searches. The system comes loaded with some apps and using Launcher3 for its front end, it has big buttons but offers almost no ability to customize it. The bottom row has apps that you cannot switch out to anything else, and 3 of them I will never be using. The system works but is not as nice as it could look or function. The obvious answer is to use a different launcher which is where the problem arises. I have tried to use Nova and Apex so far with the same very frustrating outcome. After the install everything is great, I can set the screen up to look amazing and add icons and functionality that really make it a great experience. So everything is working lovely then I shut my truck off and go do whatever. The next time I come back I start the truck up everything loads fine, the new launcher and everything I did to it is working just as expected until about 5 minutes in the screen goes black for a second and then the system goes through a factory reset. Really? Are you kidding me? The first couple times I thought maybe I hit something because I hadn't fully put my truck back together but after playing with it more and having the system factory reset 5 other times I have concluded it is related to changing the launcher. I tried Nova first, then I tried Apex with the same outcome and same sequence of events. Obviously it's annoying everytime testing this because updating and reentering my info everytime just to try the launcher again is time consuming. The last test the only thing I did was a different launcher so that has to be it, but why and how can I fix it?
If anyone has any clue how using a different launcher would cause a factory reset to happen please help me out. Or if there is anything I can do to this system to prevent that. My last resort thought would be to root it but I read someone else who has this system that rooting it caused screen layout issues and made things go 90 degrees off? The loaded apps in the system have touch screen calibration and screen resizing which might be necessary for this to function with the monitor.
Thanks for any help.
I spoke with someone else that has the system and they are not having any issues with running a different launcher so something happen to my particular device. I contacted the company and they will be getting me the firmware to refresh it and hopefully that fixes the resetting issue.
i am looking to get this also. I am very curious how you like the device - it looks great though a bit out of date. Waze & email should work well. How much storage does it have? Can you add a sd card or something?
RichTJ99 said:
i am looking to get this also. I am very curious how you like the device - it looks great though a bit out of date. Waze & email should work well. How much storage does it have? Can you add a sd card or something?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm getting a new unit sent out, it seems there are 2 versions and for whatever reason mine wouldn't let me customize the launcher.
But even though it's outdated, every app I tried worked just fine, they still install the latest versions. The system has 8gb of on board storage and a microSD card slot that is mainly for loading maps for offline navigation. I think you can still access it for other uses, but they have a better option for that. There is a USB input for flash drives or external drives. I tried my 2TB external drive on it and it accessed my movies fine from it.
How did you get it installed? Who?
got any pics?
Actually I would be interested in this too, I have an Alfa Romeo and the Uconnect 6.5 (european version) which isn't that great, it would be nice to attach a sort of box with ARM hardware running on Android and using the display and touch of the existing Uconnect. The question is, how this can be done?
http://www.dodgedurango.net/forums/.../24632-android-phone-uconnect-8-4-screen.html
I would check out this thread. It has two videos that walk you through the entire process - great info!
I also bought this latest Android system V4 2 weeks ago. Auto launcher pro app is very good working. At the moment there is a issue with the system time, which is not correctly synchronized with gps time. Carperformance Team is working on a fix for that. How can I get root Access for this Android 7 System?
Diabollon said:
I also bought this latest Android system V4 2 weeks ago. Auto launcher pro app is very good working. At the moment there is a issue with the system time, which is not correctly synchronized with gps time. Carperformance Team is working on a fix for that. How can I get root Access for this Android 7 System?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
glad to hear i'm not going crazy with the clock but there is an issue.
I just bought and installed a V4 a couple weeks back too.
i must have left a loose connection cause i keep having to recall the touchscreen for android. I half-arsed the install cause we were leaving for a 2k mile roadtrip the next day- need to take it apart and do it right. Luckily you can connect a usb mouse in to trigger the calibration app.
id also love root- at the moment im trying to figure out if the one usb port is safe to connect an A to A usb cable into to get ADB. apparently on some versions of nvida sheild, you can. If they provide a firmware update for the clock fix then maybe that gets us an image to futz with for root.
a keyboard also works in teh usb port and i've tried a handful of key combos during boot to get to recovery but haven't stumbled on it yet.
I'll post back if i find anything
michaelk said:
glad to hear i'm not going crazy with the clock but there is an issue.
I just bought and installed a V4 a couple weeks back too.
i must have left a loose connection cause i keep having to recall the touchscreen for android. I half-arsed the install cause we were leaving for a 2k mile roadtrip the next day- need to take it apart and do it right. Luckily you can connect a usb mouse in to trigger the calibration app.
id also love root- at the moment im trying to figure out if the one usb port is safe to connect an A to A usb cable into to get ADB. apparently on some versions of nvida sheild, you can. If they provide a firmware update for the clock fix then maybe that gets us an image to futz with for root.
a keyboard also works in teh usb port and i've tried a handful of key combos during boot to get to recovery but haven't stumbled on it yet.
I'll post back if i find anything
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi @michaelk
Good to hear that I am not alone here with this special system V4. Except for the issue with the system time and no root access, I am fully satisfied so far. I hope to fix it soon. If we had root access then we could solve this issue with the system time with some time apps ourselves.
Thank you for your experiences.
Best regards
Diabollon
wiring harness investigation
so played around some today.
I've got an issue where I need to recalibrate the screen almost every time I boot. it seems the box (or card added to the radio?) forgets things and only works the bottom right corner and also seems to rotate 90 degrees at boot. The end result is unusable screen. I think carperformance is just a reseller because of their response. They're friendly and reply quickly but are really unable to help. The first answer was just randomly fiddle with screen and try to find calibrate setting and reboot- that proved impossible and on my own I discovered a 6 dollar USB mouse from the Walmart could be used to navigate to the calibrate app. When I inquired again when it got more frequent they basically said it's not normal and offered no help except to adjust a personalization setting to run calibrate on boot- that only works once that I can figure (might be related to weird time bug)- so I settled on having tasker run calibrate on each boot. I wonder if there is a battery in the box that needs changing but the warranty sticker keeps me out for not- might add an external battery to keep it alive for a longer time to minimize the rebooting
Anyway took everything apart today to double-check and can't find any connection issues. I traced the harness a bit to try and understand a little and basically, the skinny cables run the daughterboard to snag the screen output and the touchscreen input. But i wanted to figure out what is tapped from the radio harness to the large white plug on the box and see if anything going on their .
DISCLAIMER- I NEED TO CONFIRM (it was hot - laughing) but basically seems what is tapped in radio harness is:
1) power and ground also
2) L&R aux audio signal- interesting here is they tapped a single ground (physically next to the right signal) for common. Earlier i had the RAX hack and their harness used a ground for each L&R and their aux input worked all the time without the little plugin shunt thing to trick aux input. When i dug some more and found a pin diagram from mopar I found that the 'left' ground is actually labeled "aux audio device detect signal" I need to play some more to see what happens but my guess is if we put a switch on that to short it to ground then the aux would just work to avoid the hokey plug.
3) Here's the fun- holding the screen to flip inputs could be the daughterboard running things. BUT since it also reacts to the left steering wheel button pack and switches inputs itself when you need the reverse cam- i figured it reads the can bus. and sure enough, it looks like it taps CAN IHS (+) and CAN IHS (-). Very cool that it would get into the whole bus and read anything- BUT since there are other FCA vehicles that don't auto-switch inputs on revers and they have alternate connections it seems the real dev is not involved to update things to sniff for other reverse signals. Reading around here- seems that there is probably a custom serial port someplace in the box that reads this and there's probably no documentation for us to do anything ourselves. But one can hope...
---------- Post added at 06:12 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:07 PM ----------
michaelk said:
glad to hear i'm not going crazy with the clock but there is an issue.
I just bought and installed a V4 a couple weeks back too.
i must have left a loose connection cause i keep having to recall the touchscreen for android. I half-arsed the install cause we were leaving for a 2k mile roadtrip the next day- need to take it apart and do it right. Luckily you can connect a usb mouse in to trigger the calibration app.
id also love root- at the moment im trying to figure out if the one usb port is safe to connect an A to A usb cable into to get ADB. apparently on some versions of nvida sheild, you can. If they provide a firmware update for the clock fix then maybe that gets us an image to futz with for root.
a keyboard also works in teh usb port and i've tried a handful of key combos during boot to get to recovery but haven't stumbled on it yet.
I'll post back if i find anything
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So the spec for the chipset for the V4 says it can handle an OTG port and a couple (maybe 3?) other USB ports. Obviously, the box only has the one USB A port visible on the pigtail. I wish we could get in the box and look for a header for the OTG port to help rooting but.... the darn warranty sticker.
on the FCA/Dodge side of things- I have a Durango with a USB port and SD card reader in the dash (USB Media "Hub" Apparently, FCA uses USB Mini B connectors to interconnect all the ports and the radio. They use latching connectors that are keyed but if you undo them there's a standard USB mini B in there. They do some odd male/female things so you have to pay attention to where you undo cables, but bottom line you can undo the connector on the back of the dash's USB port and stuff a USB mini B female on it and connect it to whatever host device you want.
I first tried an old laptop in case there's anything weird going on. My Dash "Hub" actually has 2 mini-B connectors and a multipin auto harness. Without the harness when you connect it to windows it sees a USB Hub, but the USB port was still dead. So I assumed it needs power from the harness on the back of the dash hub and connected that. UP popped up a USB mass storage device which I believe is the SD card reader- didn't get around to confirming and then the USB port also comes to life. Knowing that it was safe at that point I connected it to the USB A Host port on the box and presto chango now I have the in-dash port connected to the android tv box without any exposed wiring.
Connected the "android auto dongle" through the cars USB port and that works perfectly. I ordered a used 2 USB dash hub from eBay (later model years have 2 and will see what that does. The pictures of that also show the 2 mini B ports- I'll play some more when I get that. I'm not sure what is in those dongles but from the other folks hacking android auto into older models (by using newer radios) apparently, one port works for android auto and the other doesn't. The scuttle is its a body module programming thing but I wonder if maybe there's something physical in there and so the dongle won't be necessary any longer with the new hub? My other thought is if the two USB min B jacks allow you to connect to 2 different hosts- I would try one on the original Uconnect (in case I ever need to update the software) and the other for the android TV box.
So apparently the android tv box handles hubs just fine. As I mentioned earlier it handles a mouse or USB keyboard fine. Also, I played around and connected my hotspot by USB instead of wifi so the device sees it as a modem and that works just fine- so I assume a USB modem works out of the box too. (again odd if that works that carperformance sells a hotspot and not USB modem- like they don't know what the box can do)
I disassembled my display 2 times until it worked. After the first start, I had a black screen. I thought that was it... After 3 times it finally worked. I also had a cable on the plug which has easily resolved. I think you will also have a loose contact somewhere. One time I also had the display calibration gone. Then I connected my old usb keyboard and could then start the display calibration. I reset the system before. So far, the system works without problems. I also have a passive 4-way usb hub to connect.
I have already connected cables for the frontcam but have not yet moved into the engine compartment.
In the video tutorial of Carperformance, you can see when you switch to drive, the display then changes to the frontcam or signal from the cam, but the display does not change to the Frontcam signal with me.
Do you have with you the signal on the display of the camera when switching to drive?
Adw2 = bad mix
Went back and forth many times in email and turns out my calibration issue was probably all ADW2 launcher, guess it conflicts with whatever app they use to communicate with the display.
in the process of troubleshooting I got the update zip for the current version but I don't think those have recovery partition in there and so can't help root? I need to read some more.
I've ripped everything apart like 12 times with the screen, so that my front cam is not connected right now. For the brief time I had it, it was connected to one of the smaller video in pin connectors and don't think it worked in drive by itself, but can't really say for certain. I think certain models can't get the canbus command to see reverse and if I understand they connect in to the video in on the main connector and then use a point on the car that is energized to trigger the switch on that connection. If your adventurous they seem to have to flip a dip also. I think it's the Cherokees or maybe grand Cherokee so maybe Google their thread's? This site gives connector pin outs
http://connectors.dcctools.com/home.htm
There might be a lead for the drive on your shifter if lucky. I think I read the reverse shoulder comes from a body control box in the passenger wheel well?
Also they're super friendly and never wrong when you email but they can be brief. So you could ask if there's a dipswitch to flip to enable auto switching one of the inputs. Hec maybe we should just ask for a table of where the dips do...
(Sorry for any typos... Will try to edit later)
Supposedly it is enough to connect the extra input cable for DVD or CMMB. That answered me Carperformance. Before, I had no external input cable connected. That's why no signal came. The OEM rearcam works flawlessly.
Also, I forgot, they have a workaround for the clock bug
For the clock there is a fix
https://www.youtube.com/watchv=3OEEbah53QY&t=1s
michaelk said:
Also, I forgot, they have a workaround for the clock bug
For the clock there is a fix
https://www.youtube.com/watchv=3OEEbah53QY&t=1s
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Unfortunately it's not available.
Diabollon said:
Unfortunately it's not available.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
try this-
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3OEEbah53QY&t=1s
michaelk said:
try this-
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3OEEbah53QY&t=1s
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's a cheaper fix but so no solution. Carperformance should offer a software update with root access. Then we would be satisfied. We should expect it for the money.
My frontcam is working now good.
You already tried Android auto? Which USB dongle do you use? Do you need a special app for this?
My China usb dongle does not want to connect properly with my oneplus 6T.
Edit:
Android auto is working with Pumpkin USB dongle and autoplaybox app. The noname China scrap goes back to shop.
The time fix is working until now also. Thanks for this info. The carperformance, they wrote or informed the affected people who ordered it. I did not get any info.
Diabollon said:
...
My frontcam is working now good.
...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
besides powering your camera and connecting the yellow RCA video signal did you have to do anything else?
something with the red signal wire maybe?
I cant consistently get a signal on my front cam and not sure if the camera is bad or my setup
---------- Post added at 12:55 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:42 PM ----------
few other notes for others-
FCA "aux audio device detect signal" harness line is actually normally closed (I think shorted to ground)- if you break the connection the oew radio flips right to aux in. make the connection again and it flips back to previous input.
the in dash usb port is infact a powered hub. I originally had a usb + SD card combo and replaced it with 2 usb port and works fine. FCA uses mini b connections to it- just use a usb a to mini b cable to connect it to the android auto box and your indash usb port(s) will work on android auto (And provide more watts to charge your stuff). oddly either dahs hub has a second usb mini b connector that i played around with a little but never could figure out what it does
more can bus fun! - i updated the dongle firmware on the android auto dongle sold direct from carperforance and now it has a beta feature to map buttons. somehow it seems to be sniffing the canbus through the android tv box. it has arrow keys, numbers, enter, etc and you use the app to select the input to assign then you press the same button on the car twice- it sniffs the signal and assignes it. I My durango has the button packs on the steering wheel and i was able to assign up, down, left, right and get it to have the android auto respond. Need to play more but i think it actually goes android wide. For example i think the down button on my steering wheel was sending page down to the chrome browser i had open on the box. Pretty cool stuff if they expand that.

Problem with Radio stock app that doesn't keep channels and other little issues

Hello all!
I recently bought a android head unit that runs android 5.1.1. (MCU: MTCD_MX_V1.73_1, Kernel 3.0.101+) I have several little problems, one of them is that the radio app that is provided doesn't store any channel that I save after a turn off turn on. Is it something that can be solved or the best is to use another radio app? Maybe you have good examples?
More generally it seems that every-time I turn OFF, it loses the time (it goes back to some random date in 2012 at 00h00).
The GPS also seems to loose the ephemeris and needs to download them every-time, I get a fix after 10 to 15 minutes after turn on is it something normal?
Any help would be much appreciated!
thank you!
What kind of vehicle did you install it in..?
You probably need a canbus harness for your car or run a accessory power from your cigarette lighter + wire..
Cid6.7 said:
What kind of vehicle did you install it in..?
You probably need a canbus harness for your car or run a accessory power from your cigarette lighter + wire..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you for answering me! My car is a Citroen DS4, I have installed it with the harness and everything (can bus decoder box etc) provided.

Hui Fei Android 6 HU stops at logo screen at startup - need beginner advices

Hi,
I am new on this forum and the reason for joining is that my car HU stopped working and there seems to be a lot of knowledge on this forum. I have tried to search for solutions but did not find any directly adaptable solutions and I don't wan't to brick the unit totally (if it isn't already). I also contacted the seller Witson and got a couple of suggestions but they were unfortunately of no help.
I have not taken the unit out of the car so I can not check any label for exact make and type of the unit but it looks like this newer model - witson.com/displayproduct.html?id=2698508511135168 (sorry, newbie so please copy and paste into browser). To my understanding after some web browsing it is a Hui Fei unit, Android 6, Quad Core, RK3188, MTCB, original Witson type code B5779 when bought in November 2017.
Now to the problem. The unit suddenly did not startup normally anymore - it always halted at the logo - multi-media on-vehicle Navigation System. I contacted Witson for information on how to get into the recovery menu and was advised that a long push on the power button until all buttons flash three times would do the trick - unfortunately I didn't and the logo screen was there. Searching this site I also found that some of you added long and short power button and got to the recovery menu so I tried them too - no luck.
Contacted Witson again and was advised to put dmci.img and update.img files on a SD card and put it in the GPS slot and power up the unit - nothing happened, even the screen was totally black now.
Is there something else I can try or do or do I have to admit that the HU is bricked and ready for recycling?

No display unless unit is reset or power is disconnected

I have had an issue with my unit since I received it in May 2019. When I initially installed it, it up it worked OK, CD, Radio and USB all played fine as did the navigation.
So I remove the car key and call it a day. When I return and put my key in the slot, I could hear the units disc transport spinning up and reading the TOC and then whatever the last track being played could be heard, I could control volume etc from the steering wheel but there was no display and no amount of button pressing will bring it back.
I got a cocktail stick and hit the reset button on the front and hey presto the display returned OK. This also works if I unplug it from the cars loom and then reconnect it (but that is just a faff too far).
However as soon as I remove the key at the end of a journey and then return to it and put my key in, I have no display but it will be playing whatever it was when I left it previously.
It has on VERY RARE occasions functioned as expected but it is so infrequent that I cannot recall when that last occured.
The supplier did send a replacement CANBUS Decoder and a replacement screen but neither fixed the issue.
Any ideas?
Model and hardware
rk3368(800x480)
Android version
9
Build number
rk3368-userdebug 9PQ2A.190205.003 eng.hct20190409.160431
test-keys
Kernel version:
4.4.167
#43 Sat Mar 30 01:01:14 CST 2019
MCU version:
*MTCE_CZ_V3.00_1*
*Nov 28 2018 16:09:06*
MTCE_CZ_V3.10_2
Apr 4 2019 13:32:14
CPU:
Octa-core Cortex-A53 @ 1.5G
Memory
3940 MB
*MCU version it was shipped with
Since your unit seems to work after a reset, maybe disabling the auto sleep (fast boot) feature to force the unit to do a full boot every time you start the car might help. The setting may be found in the Extra settings menu (for Dasaita units it's under Settings...Car...Extra settings). I have mine set to fully power off the system 30 seconds after I turn the car off, thus a full boot up every time I start the car.
Full boot up would be better than having to reach for the reset every time you want to go for a drive.
We have a winner!
Thank you so very much jlbooth for your reply and suggestion.
Only wish I'd posted earlier.
Cheers
Dave
Glad to be of assistance to you Dave. I've had a lot less problems with various things on my own head unit since disabling fast boot.

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