Ok, I ordered my first useless dock also from NewEgg.com, only to discover that the HDMI output is (as later specified on the website), only a passthrough HDMI and the HDMI adapter is sold separetly!!!. But none the less, I did received my UD and at least I have the 10.1" slider into which the tab can fit. I will connect this to the new 7" True HDMI dock I also ordered. Wasting money??, well, I'll limit my amount of StarBucks coffees and make up for it.
That was besides the point Have anyone every opened the Dock (7" or useless 10.1") too see what is inside? I got as far as removing the four screws from the bottom on my UD (useless dock) and probably need to pray it open a bit. But have not gotten that far yet, before I started typing ('cause I did a search with not any applicable results) - next time someone is going to ***** at me again for 'have you tried search????' - I'm gonna tell them to let the forum know to get a better search engine - one that actually works. - Again, off the topic. (LOL)
My whole idea is the make the "Ultimate Multimedia Dock" (**** Samsung for selling everything separately if they darn well know it could be one device!) I especially need a SD-card reader (since I sit now with two 32GB cards and a 10.1" tab that cannot read them!)
My idea is to add a USB surface mount female plug inside the dock (after I prayed it open, I will get picks and let you know if it will work) - Something like this.
Slimmer if I can get one - still needs to shop around a bit more. If anyone knows of anything slimmer than the above one let me know, please.
But that is not what I need help with so much..... According to this thread, one can create your own USB Host dongle. I want to build that into the dock.
So that means that whatever the connectors are between the two 30-pin connectors of the dock, needs to be intercepted with the USB connector (pins 1,3,4 &6) and the 20K resistor between 13 & 15.
The idea is mainly to have access to the USB female port as a card reader, while the tab is on the dock and maybe while the charger is connected. I am not so much interested to use the USB port while the HDMI is playing (modding the 7" dock). I would hate to send my 50" TV up in smoke - or the tab for that matter, if both devices are both connected and does not like being together......
Anyone have some diagrams or experience to help figure this out - it is highly appreciated.
Thanks guys & gals!
Got some pics to share.....
Useless dock, inside and out........
Guys, Let's take this thing apart and make it better.....
(will upload soon...)
bert269 said:
Useless dock, inside and out........
Guys, Let's take this thing apart and make it better.....
(will upload now - first have to reboot to get my FTP server on my laptop working.....wbrb)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Samsung has another new Media dock coming, its not like the one thats currently out which sells for $34.99
The new one is supposed to have HDMI out so you don't need the adapter to use it.
The new dock will run $50 and should be available in the fall along with the new bluetooth keyboard case and some new attachments.
This is what Engadget has to say:
Today's Samsung Galaxy Tab 10.1 event in NYC wasn't just about software -- okay, it was mostly about software, but the company also unveiled a slew of accessories for its slick Android tablet. High atop the list is a number of new docks for the slate, including a $50 Multimedia Dock, which props the device up in landscape mode while charging it and offering HDMI out. The $80 Ultra Productivity Tool, meanwhile, also charges the device and includes a full-sized keyboard with Android shortcut keys. The $150 Premium Protective case turns the Tab into a makeshift notebook with a full-size Bluetooth keyboard and a hinge that lets the user adjust the tab's viewing angle.
A new $40 HDTV adapter gives the tablet full 1080p HDMI output. The company also announced a $40 SD card adapter and a USB adapter for easy accessory input. For $60, Tab owners can pick up the Premium Book Cover, a high end case for the device that lets you prop it up for typing or viewing movies. And somewhere in the distance, you could hear Steve Jobs audibly shudder when the company unveiled a pen stylus for the device. The stylus has an aluminum body and a silicon tip, for when you need to give your fingertips a break. It'll run you $20, and sadly won't include meat.
Engadget sucks with pictures lately, here's a pic of the new dock:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g4avPDtNJ30&feature=player_embedded
New accessories galore!
Including a speaker dock!?
Pictures as promised...of the opened dock....
OK here are some pictures. I'm sure you all know how the media dock looks, So, I'll skip that one.
Here is a picture of the dock opened. See the huge piece of metal to add some weight not to flip over once the tab is inserted. This will probably need to be replaced with something else (lead?) if I am going to use some room of that for the FemaleUSB socket.https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/J7Inf00abt9o0Nf-Gm7gg_Ix_Iq3rFxo94LvnO8xF0c?feat=directlink
Next, a closer look at the bottom of the dock - the part we are actually more interested in, right?https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/CwqnYp8FNvxAY4kue68JU_Ix_Iq3rFxo94LvnO8xF0c?feat=directlink
Now I removed the three black screws that keep the metal weight in place - not hard at all:
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/8O15xTNYWKv5LgWhSsAnXvIx_Iq3rFxo94LvnO8xF0c?feat=directlink
Ah-ha - this opens up a new dimension to the project. Now we can actually see what we are dealing with.
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/zXx7uDAbMHMuaFHn1cJ5d_Ix_Iq3rFxo94LvnO8xF0c?feat=directlink
Look at the space at the bottom of the circuit board...hmmmm, I am sure we can fit a 1/4Watt 20k resistor in here (or more if we need to). But let me first remove that circuit board to see what's cook'n down there:
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/zrInv-Skb5adgNjayj0MZvIx_Iq3rFxo94LvnO8xF0c?feat=directlink
And the circuit board flipped over.....
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/1LbhnrVErUO7TqINqazybvIx_Iq3rFxo94LvnO8xF0c?feat=directlink
I can't really decide what is better, to solder onto this board or to make the USB Host adapter cable directly onto the 30-pin plug. I already messed up one connector for trying to solder onto those microscopic, tiny pins (and ended up with a piece of solder INSIDE the connector). I almost think here are more work-space on the bottom of this circuit board - for a resistor - or two-
What does the experts think ??
Look at that - my prediction was right. Look at all the space underneath the board:
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/tsndKQRzvPv2mOjS3dau-vIx_Iq3rFxo94LvnO8xF0c?feat=directlink
OK, so where do we go from here?
NOW I need some experts to tell me the best option to get the USB host adapter connected between the two 30-pin connectors.....
!!!! HELP !!!!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Some good news.....surely....
NCX Designs said:
Samsung has another new Media dock coming, its not like the one thats currently out which sells for $34.99
The new one is supposed to have HDMI out so you don't need the adapter to use it.
The new dock will run $50 and should be available in the fall along with the new bluetooth keyboard case and some new attachments.
This is what Engadget has to say:
.....
Engadget sucks with pictures lately, here's a pic of the new dock:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g4avPDtNJ30&feature=player_embedded
New accessories galore!
Including a speaker dock!?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
...and spending more money while limiting yourself......only one device at a time connected - you cannot add the sd-card adapter AND charge your device at the same time - or watch a movie when the juice is low.....That is why I want to expand the USB Host cable idea a bit further, by getting that into the dock. The dremel tool can do wanders.
But first I need to know what to do, then I can decide where. As you can see from my pictures, there are space in there to park a Ferrari also....LOL
Thanks for this update - appreciated.
bert269 said:
OK here are some pictures. I'm sure you all know how the media dock looks, So, I'll skip that one.
Here is a picture of the dock opened. See the huge piece of metal to add some weight not to flip over once the tab is inserted. This will probably need to be replaced with something else (lead?) if I am going to use some room of that for the FemaleUSB socket.https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/J7Inf00abt9o0Nf-Gm7gg_Ix_Iq3rFxo94LvnO8xF0c?feat=directlink
Next, a closer look at the bottom of the dock - the part we are actually more interested in, right?https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/CwqnYp8FNvxAY4kue68JU_Ix_Iq3rFxo94LvnO8xF0c?feat=directlink
Now I removed the three black screws that keep the metal weight in place - not hard at all:
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/8O15xTNYWKv5LgWhSsAnXvIx_Iq3rFxo94LvnO8xF0c?feat=directlink
Ah-ha - this opens up a new dimension to the project. Now we can actually see what we are dealing with.
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/zXx7uDAbMHMuaFHn1cJ5d_Ix_Iq3rFxo94LvnO8xF0c?feat=directlink
Look at the space at the bottom of the circuit board...hmmmm, I am sure we can fit a 1/4Watt 20k resistor in here (or more if we need to). But let me first remove that circuit board to see what's cook'n down there:
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/zrInv-Skb5adgNjayj0MZvIx_Iq3rFxo94LvnO8xF0c?feat=directlink
And the circuit board flipped over.....
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/1LbhnrVErUO7TqINqazybvIx_Iq3rFxo94LvnO8xF0c?feat=directlink
I can't really decide what is better, to solder onto this board or to make the USB Host adapter cable directly onto the 30-pin plug. I already messed up one connector for trying to solder onto those microscopic, tiny pins (and ended up with a piece of solder INSIDE the connector). I almost think here are more work-space on the bottom of this circuit board - for a resistor - or two-
What does the experts think ??
Look at that - my prediction was right. Look at all the space underneath the board:
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/tsndKQRzvPv2mOjS3dau-vIx_Iq3rFxo94LvnO8xF0c?feat=directlink
OK, so where do we go from here?
NOW I need some experts to tell me the best option to get the USB host adapter connected between the two 30-pin connectors.....
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Based on what you can find in this thread that discusses the creation of a USBhost/USBpower combo from the 30pin male connector you can buy, the MHL pins, which is what transports the HDMI signals, are left unused. The HDMI adapter samsung sells has the MHL chip that decodes to HDMI. I have been unable to find a female 30pin connector, but if you had that, you could pass those pins, probably with a connection to power and ground (from the same pins that are used for USB power, through to the samsung hdmi adapter. This would give you a connector that had the ability to charge, use usbhost, and still pass through HDMI, all at the same time. If I could find that female connector, I would build that in a heartbeat.
The other option you have is to take a razor, or something equally as sharp, and start cutting traces on the board that go to the female port on the back of the useless dock. You could then install the previously mentioned host and charging ports on the dock and solder them to the cut traces inside the dock. Then you would just need the hdmi adapter outside of the dock.
I'm gonna look at your pics again, and then I'll post one other idea I have.
used2hvatreo said:
...I have been unable to find a female 30pin connector, but if you had that, you could pass those pins, probably with a connection to power and ground (from the same pins that are used for USB power, through to the samsung hdmi adapter. This would give you a connector that had the ability to charge, use usbhost, and still pass through HDMI, all at the same time. If I could find that female connector, I would build that in a heartbeat.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I contacted Kineteka (who sells the male connector and pin-out connector right now) and here's the reply on the female connector:
Female Galaxy Tab connectors are not available at the moment. When they are we will have them.
Regards,
Mike Eber
www.kineteka.com
800-635-6058
cleblanc92 said:
I contacted Kineteka (who sells the male connector and pin-out connector right now) and here's the reply on the female connector:
Female Galaxy Tab connectors are not available at the moment. When they are we will have them.
Regards,
Mike Eber
www.kineteka.com
800-635-6058
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
thats hilarious, I just called them to ask the same question.
thanks for your valueable feedback
used2hvatreo said:
Based on what you can find in this thread that discusses the creation of a USBhost/USBpower combo from the 30pin male connector you can buy, the MHL pins, which is what transports the HDMI signals, are left unused. The HDMI adapter samsung sells has the MHL chip that decodes to HDMI. I have been unable to find a female 30pin connector, but if you had that, you could pass those pins, probably with a connection to power and ground (from the same pins that are used for USB power, through to the samsung hdmi adapter. This would give you a connector that had the ability to charge, use usbhost, and still pass through HDMI, all at the same time. If I could find that female connector, I would build that in a heartbeat.
The other option you have is to take a razor, or something equally as sharp, and start cutting traces on the board that go to the female port on the back of the useless dock. You could then install the previously mentioned host and charging ports on the dock and solder them to the cut traces inside the dock. Then you would just need the hdmi adapter outside of the dock.
I'm gonna look at your pics again, and then I'll post one other idea I have.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I am much more interested in the second option you have mentioned, since I do not care that much about HDMI at this stage. (I have ordered the 7" true HDMI device for this). My main plan is to add the USB Host into the useless dock. Since it looks like there will be more than enough room for the 20K resistor, my concern was if it is going to work, to intercept the signal between the two 30pin adaptes currently in the useless dock, using the plans for the USBHost?
I will see if I can find the time this weekend to work on it.
Again, thank you!
Curious to know what other idea you have too - let me know.
I'm going to follow this. because I had the same thing in mind. I've got 2 of those desktop dochs an the keyboard dock.
If I sucessfully mod one of the desktop docks I would also consider doing the same to the keyboard dock.
so, the 10.1 useless dock is just a pass through on a blank circuit board with breakouts for the power adapter.
you can easily put the usb host port on to this doc. i would probably solder to either of the connectors' mount points.
the hdmi dock and dongle etc use a silicon image chip which you can't get without signing an NDA
semiconductor store
however, there are several generic micro usb to hdmi dongles which were created for the mhl compatible phones. you can rip off the micro usb port and map it to the mhl pinouts on the 30pin connector. you're pushing $20 at that point which is near the best prices of what you can buy the 7" dock for.
This project looks like a great idea, I have just ordered related componenets from Kineteka to build this up my self. I have 2 questions though - can anyone confirm if there is any issue plugging in a USB MicroSD/SD card reader into the USB host?
My intention:
Mod the Dock - USB Host /w Charging Capabilities
1x USB Female Port -
1x SD/MicroSD Card reader
Im aware that having 2x USB reliant ports will require external power onto a USB Hub but to have this functionality would be worth having extra power.
Second question slightly related - Im looking at buying the samsung book cover case for this device - can anyone confirm if it fits within the UD with the cover attached?
Any comments/ideas welcome.
tff2011 said:
This project looks like a great idea, I have just ordered related componenets from Kineteka to build this up my self. I have 2 questions though - can anyone confirm if there is any issue plugging in a USB MicroSD/SD card reader into the USB host?
My intention:
Mod the Dock - USB Host /w Charging Capabilities
1x USB Female Port -
1x SD/MicroSD Card reader
Im aware that having 2x USB reliant ports will require external power onto a USB Hub but to have this functionality would be worth having extra power.
Second question slightly related - Im looking at buying the samsung book cover case for this device - can anyone confirm if it fits within the UD with the cover attached?
Any comments/ideas welcome.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Book cover case does not fit the standard dock, I had to chop mine up to make it fit.
bert269 said:
Ok, I ordered my first useless dock also from NewEgg.com, only to discover that the HDMI output is (as later specified on the website), only a passthrough HDMI and the HDMI adapter is sold separetly!!!. But none the less, I did received my UD and at least I have the 10.1" slider into which the tab can fit. I will connect this to the new 7" True HDMI dock I also ordered. Wasting money??, well, I'll limit my amount of StarBucks coffees and make up for it.
That was besides the point Have anyone every opened the Dock (7" or useless 10.1") too see what is inside? I got as far as removing the four screws from the bottom on my UD (useless dock) and probably need to pray it open a bit. But have not gotten that far yet, before I started typing ('cause I did a search with not any applicable results) - next time someone is going to ***** at me again for 'have you tried search????' - I'm gonna tell them to let the forum know to get a better search engine - one that actually works. - Again, off the topic. (LOL)
My whole idea is the make the "Ultimate Multimedia Dock" (**** Samsung for selling everything separately if they darn well know it could be one device!) I especially need a SD-card reader (since I sit now with two 32GB cards and a 10.1" tab that cannot read them!)
My idea is to add a USB surface mount female plug inside the dock (after I prayed it open, I will get picks and let you know if it will work) - Something like this.
Slimmer if I can get one - still needs to shop around a bit more. If anyone knows of anything slimmer than the above one let me know, please.
But that is not what I need help with so much..... According to this thread, one can create your own USB Host dongle. I want to build that into the dock.
So that means that whatever the connectors are between the two 30-pin connectors of the dock, needs to be intercepted with the USB connector (pins 1,3,4 &6) and the 20K resistor between 13 & 15.
The idea is mainly to have access to the USB female port as a card reader, while the tab is on the dock and maybe while the charger is connected. I am not so much interested to use the USB port while the HDMI is playing (modding the 7" dock). I would hate to send my 50" TV up in smoke - or the tab for that matter, if both devices are both connected and does not like being together......
Anyone have some diagrams or experience to help figure this out - it is highly appreciated.
Thanks guys & gals!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Interesting. I was just having a conversation in a different thread about this. I'm considering design the HW for this. I'm going to create a block diagram and then a schematic. My thought is exactly what you are saying. Being able to us a USB Hard drive while the device is charging from the wall. I think that will also give you the ability to use a non powered USB hard drive with this as well. I can't say for sure. I still have to look some things up but I think its possible.
Bxsteez said:
Interesting. I was just having a conversation in a different thread about this. I'm considering design the HW for this. I'm going to create a block diagram and then a schematic. My thought is exactly what you are saying. Being able to us a USB Hard drive while the device is charging from the wall. I think that will also give you the ability to use a non powered USB hard drive with this as well. I can't say for sure. I still have to look some things up but I think its possible.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You might run into an issue power wise. I have not looked thru the threads in awhile, but my guess would be that the power you need to run the hard drive (amps wise) might be too much and cause the tablet not to charge at regular speed. I can help with a power circuit design if you need any help.
used2hvatreo said:
You might run into an issue power wise. I have not looked thru the threads in awhile, but my guess would be that the power you need to run the hard drive (amps wise) might be too much and cause the tablet not to charge at regular speed. I can help with a power circuit design if you need any help.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That is sorta what I thought but i'm not 100% sure of the current output of charger and at the same time I'm thinking a 500mA draw would be like charging the device through any USB port which I agree would be slower but might still be adequate for this use since i'm thinking if you are using this configuration it will be sitting for a while. Maybe if I could even balance the power draw with the power output. Then it wouldn't charge but it would die either. Who knows....
I'm trying to get some information on the signals on the 30pin. I'm not sure if the pin 7 and 8 are inputs for the charging circuit. I might just have to buy a cable and break it down and find out.
Bxsteez said:
That is sorta what I thought but i'm not 100% sure of the current output of charger and at the same time I'm thinking a 500mA draw would be like charging the device through any USB port which I agree would be slower but might still be adequate for this use since i'm thinking if you are using this configuration it will be sitting for a while. Maybe if I could even balance the power draw with the power output. Then it wouldn't charge but it would die either. Who knows....
I'm trying to get some information on the signals on the 30pin. I'm not sure if the pin 7 and 8 are inputs for the charging circuit. I might just have to buy a cable and break it down and find out.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Is this information what you are looking for?
I've found this so that pretty much answer my questions. I will get started on a block diagram and schematic. I have to do a little research on the power consumption of USB Hard drives.
---------- Post added at 09:44 AM ---------- Previous post was at 09:44 AM ----------
used2hvatreo said:
Is this information what you are looking for?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
haha that is hilarious. That is exactly what i was just posting about lol..
Let me know what you think of this.... It is a rough idea of how I think the circuit should work.
****EDIT***(FIXED ERROR)
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Bxsteez said:
Let me know what you think of this.... It is a rough idea of how I think the circuit should work.
****EDIT***(FIXED ERROR)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I didn't completely analyze it, but with a quick look, it looks pretty good.
I don't see any serious circuit issues that could really mess something up. (there could be data connectivity issues, i don't know much about all that)
Hi,
My made-in-china docking station has just arrived, unfortunately its already been broken (quality material of a matchbox :\),
I have plugged in my micro usb into the socket (female micro usb on the dock) and somehow after few tests the female receiver of the dock fell out.. (I guess it wasn't glued strong enough because I haven't use any extra power to push it in)
Any way.. I have opened it up to see whats going on and found this:
http://img841.imageshack.us/img841/9554/a84p.jpg
The small piece on the left is the female micro usb plugger that was attached to the green board but fell off..
This is a sort of explanation:
http://img856.imageshack.us/img856/2971/4wbl.jpg
And thats the part it self:
http://img43.imageshack.us/img43/8735/ew44.jpg
Unfortunately I can't glue it back and definately not weld it on since its too tiny and I don't have proper equipment for that..
But I do want to try to fix it because god damn its 1 day old ! totally brand new!
So I was thinking maybe I should simply tear a cable and plug the + - to the red and black wires at the end of that board..
And so, here comes the question for you expert fellers.
First this is the board:
http://img856.imageshack.us/img856/8915/xo1u.jpg
I have a basic knowledge in electricity but its from engineering study and not from real world, so I don't really know how to read this thing..
Perhaps a better intuition than mines will help too..
Is this board necessary? What does it do? and can't it live with out it?
Why they didn't simply plug the + and - straight to the + - pins of the docking points?
Because thats what I am willing to do but I guess that "Ask the experts before you ruin it" is a helpful tip my mom taught me..
Thanks!
Jordan.
I'm curious about this too. I'm in the same boat as you: basic knowledge but not too much real world experience. So, I can't tell you what the board does, but maybe we can figure some things out and perhaps someone with more knowledge will chime in eventually.
I can at least answer (I think) why you don't just have a red and black wire going to the point where the phone docks: you have data too (assuming the dock does data as well as charge). Those are the green and white wires in USB.
Well actually I have already figured out out..
First of all there is no data..
You can't minimize 4 cables to 2, its not possible in any way..
Those two pins are for charge only..
The board is for security defense, if you plug into it something with high voltage, it shuts it down or something.. Or transfor only the needed voltage and ampher (5v and 1A for me)..
Any way I cutted out that board and opened up a micro usb cable on the microusb side, attatched the red (+) to the dock's red and the brown (could also be white blue or somwthing, check it out to be sure) to the dock's white (-), closed every thing nice and tight, plugged the usb to charger with 1 ampher output, and it worked..
My phone is getting charged nicely and showing up Docking signal as well..
I'm not sure what exactly this board does and if its useless or not, but it sure ain't must..
Good luck!
Sent from my C6603 using xda premium
Makes sense. I kind of expected there to be no data (hence why I made the comment about it ) Glad you figured it out!
Hello,
I recently sold my car and no longer have the need for one of these MTCB units. Like an idiot, I forgot to wipe my information from the unit (Eonon / KLD) before uninstalling it.
The unit is made for plug and play with a Mazda 3. Is there something I can do to power it on without the car, so I can erase all of my information / settings and get it ready for resale. Otherwise I'm not going to feel safe selling it. (Even though I could probably revoke the important accounts from the cloud.)
Thanks.
I used a PC power supply.
You need 3 pins Positive and negative for power and positive for ignition power
Look at the adapter wiring specific for your car and you will figure it out.
DRidilla said:
Hello,
I recently sold my car and no longer have the need for one of these MTCB units. Like an idiot, I forgot to wipe my information from the unit (Eonon / KLD) before uninstalling it.
The unit is made for plug and play with a Mazda 3. Is there something I can do to power it on without the car, so I can erase all of my information / settings and get it ready for resale. Otherwise I'm not going to feel safe selling it. (Even though I could probably revoke the important accounts from the cloud.)
Thanks.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
dazza007 said:
I used a PC power supply.
You need 3 pins Positive and negative for power and positive for ignition power
Look at the adapter wiring specific for your car and you will figure it out.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No need to a PC power supply, an AC Adapter 12v - 2a is sufficient.
Cut the end if the connector and make 3 wire ( 2x positive - 1x negative ).
1 positive, 1 negative wire to the power pins "normally the thin pins" to power up the unit
1 positive wire to the ignition wire to start the unit.
I used a PC power supply, the yellow wires are 12V, black are ground. I just put the battery and ignition wires in the yellow wire plug and the ground in a black wire black on a 4-pin Molex connector.
To turn on the power supply, you have to jumper the green wire to a black wire in the 24-pin motherboard connector.
Make sure the power wires can't touch the ground pins. I kept shorting mine out and took me a couple times to figure out what was happening.
I'm like an absolutely moron with wiring so this sounds fun!
I guess hacking up the adapter is better than never selling the unit anyway. Thanks everyone for all the help.
youtube is your friend when it comes to this.. plenty of video's on it..
I have made one up myself from youtube videos
Sent from my K00C using Tapatalk
The charging port on my Nexus 7 2013 starting playing up and only charging when the cable was held in certain positions and then finally it stopped working altogether.
I took it apart to replace the port and the problem was that the legs on the connector had actually lifted the tracks off the board.
I replaced the connector and wired the legs to the nearby pads the tracks I believe they're supposed to go to and when plugged in both the charging symbol appeared and usb data communications worked.
However I then had a slight mishap while handling it and managed to knock off and break the component pointed to by the arrow in the photo.
The component has no markings on it and is about 2mm x 1mm. I can't measure the original with a meter as it's physically broken.
Can anyone tell me what the component is so that I can replace it?
I meant to also add that while looking for info I came across this site regarding the port repair which some people may find useful although personally I think you're better of removing the sub board and then using a proper desolder station if you have access to one.
http://freemansgarage.com/blog/?p=1082
Ollie2 said:
what the component is so that I can replace it?
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This component has a sub-ohm resistance and is a fusible resistor or choke/inductor. Either way you can just short/bridge it - no worries
k23m said:
This component has a sub-ohm resistance and is a fusible resistor or choke/inductor. Either way you can just short/bridge it - no worries
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Thank you very much for the reply, that's just the kind of answer I was hoping for.
With the link bridged the device does show it as charging when plugged in however the charging rate is now really, really slow and at it's current rate of charge looks like it'll take about 50 hours to fully charge.
If I put an ammeter across the two pads then it looks like it pulls about 85ma whereas I'd expect it to be more like 10 times that.
I've tested it with several cables and chargers (0.5A, 1A and 2A) that used to work perfectly with it previously and still work with other devices..
I've ordered an inline usb ammeter that should arrive later today to double check the current usage but the charger or battery don't get warm so I'd guess it's correct.
The repaired tracks look to be correct and beep through fine, the data cable works and I can transfer data but presumably there is something else wrong with it.
Any suggestions of what else to look or is there anything that I need to do with software to reset the charging process?
Ollie2 said:
If I put an ammeter across the two pads then it looks like it pulls about 85ma whereas I'd expect it to be more like 10 times that.
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The ammeter's internal resistance may trigger N7's lower charging current draw which normally happens to prevent overloading USB2 or weak chargers.
Anyway, do a recalibration:
fully discharge N7
recharge it completely while off
disconnect the charger and turn N7 on
Thanks for the reply.
I added the ammeter inline as it was charging so slowly and the 85ma it looks to pull roughly equates to the charging times I'm seeing.
The tablet is fully charged at the moment (via a wireless charger) but when it's not needed for a few days I'll flatten the battery and let it charge using the cable, I'd guess it'll take 2-3 days to do so.
Interestingly apps such as ampere show the sort of current I'd expect the device to be getting in the 800ma range however I'm guessing it's calculating this as the requested current but it's just not making it to the battery for some reason.
Hi XDA community,
firstly thank you for your all your great jobs here!
I own a P605 Galaxy Note 10.1 2014. It has been "soft"-rooted (through kernel bug, without KNOXing the device) but it has probably gone out of warranty.
I experence some serious issues with any USB-related operation, let me enumerate them:
1) USB Charging: when powered off the tablet charges normally (but slowly), when powered on the tablet charges (fastly) until the screen switches off, then it stops charging.
2) USB OTG: when attatching an OTG cable, the device detect it but when attaching an USB drive nothing happens
3) USB to PC: on a Windows OS, attaching the tablet results in a "Device Descriptor" error, even with the tablet in download mode, so any firmware flashing operation is impossible. On Linux OS there's a similar error, related to device descriptors.
Obviously, when I bought it everything worked fine. Sadly, I suspect an hardware issue... I'm asking you any kind of help: tests to indentify exactly the problem and, hopefully, a solution.
P.S. I've already tried changing USB cable/USB port/PC/charger/mood/wearing/house...:crying:
Hello , i too have this problems, do you run also Lollipop 5.1.1`? Any solution found?
1) If not using the original charger/cable (or non compliant) then there's a possibility thad the data pins of the charger are not shortened. You need a charger compliant with our tablets or data-pins-shorted cable. (you can do it yourself but the cable will only be used for charging)
https://www.ibm.com/developerworks/...ssue_solved_hack_your_usb_cable_today?lang=en
https://www.amazon.co.uk/PortaPow-Charge-Block-Adapter-SmartCharge/dp/B00QRRZ2QM
2) try Es file explorer (remember ntfs is not supported)
3) install kies or try
http://org.downloadcenter.samsung.c...G_USB_Driver_for_Mobile_Phones_v1.5.45.00.exe
(just the usb driver)
I have exactly the same case as #1 and I fixed finally. It's because of the bad contact of the usb cable. Open the back cover (gentle and slowly prevent broke it), disconnect the usb cable from the adapter near camera, wash your hand and keep it dry, touch the golden finger one or two times with your cleaned finger, then connect it back with a little push it to the end, make sure it lock firm. ( I also use a piece 3M plastic tape to stick on the surface ). Power on and test, no problem and then close back the back cover. My machine no more that problem again. Sorry for my english not so good, and hope this can help.
With Davidmueller's Lineage and RR there is a (recurring) charging problem with usb cables. You need a cable like the one supplied, where the second GND line on the m-usb plug is not connected. The plug of the white original cable has the contact missing, i bought a recent, black Samsung cable with 5contacts,also working. None of the other cables i tried, did. The problem was there almost a year ago, got solved and re-occured during the last updates.
Results after the replace of the usb module.
As suggested by Jan&March, I tried cleaning the usb module connector on the motherboard. It solved EVERY issue for about 3 days, then they came up again. So I thought that maybe, touching and cleaning the connector, there was some bad contact on the cable. I bought a replacement part for the usb module. It has been working for about 2 weeks before showing the same issues today. I hope I'm helping someone with my experience. Any suggestions?
The pcb jack may have bad solder joints. I never had the case open, but i think the usb and display connectors belong to the components bearing most of the pressure exerted on the back cover. Except the battery and the metal shieldings on the pcb stand out more,which can only be told if you have the back cover removed.
lecorbusier said:
The pcb jack may have bad solder joints. I never had the case open, but i think the usb and display connectors belong to the components bearing most of the pressure exerted on the back cover. Except the battery and the metal shieldings on the pcb stand out more,which can only be told if you have the back cover removed.
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Thanks, so what do you recommend?
That would require re-soldering. It's hard to tell, it's less likely if the connector's aren't among the most prominent parts under the back cover and won't make contact with it. I can't tell from the pics i've seen.
Jan&March said:
I have exactly the same case as #1 and I fixed finally. It's because of the bad contact of the usb cable. Open the back cover (gentle and slowly prevent broke it), disconnect the usb cable from the adapter near camera, wash your hand and keep it dry, touch the golden finger one or two times with your cleaned finger, then connect it back with a little push it to the end, make sure it lock firm. ( I also use a piece 3M plastic tape to stick on the surface ). Power on and test, no problem and then close back the back cover. My machine no more that problem again. Sorry for my english not so good, and hope this can help.
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Click to collapse
this just did it for me. i think the bracket that secures the ribbon cable isn't exerting enough pressure on the cable so maybe some data pins may not be in contact.