Speaking for myself I've always been kinda aware of the failure potential of these batteries. For instance, I tend to not leave the phone unattended during charging and also use such tasker profiles as to shutdown when charge below 5% or alert when charging above 95%. These latter measures and others are mostly to help with battery longevity as well as or rather my ocdness on this subject.
My only gripe is that I never succeeded in instilling the same 'respect' for battery in my wife.. Pre or even post-note she always forgets her tablet or her phone plugged in the charger, even when no one's at home, sometimes for days!
But this recent note7 'mishap' let me tell you, made me even more wary of the destructive potential of the batteries in our phones. Especially since most of my latest snapdragon devices (m7, z5) get very warm while performing various mundane tasks (syncing via wifi/lte, camera, games rendering etc), much warmer then the defunct note.
Did this event affect the way you use your mobile devices and how? Is there any particular strategy you use with this respect? Or do you rather think that the failure rate being so low it's rather silly to worry about it?
millicent said:
Did this event affect the way you use your mobile devices and how?
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Click to collapse
Nope, it hasn't made me change anything so far. I don't believe the issue with the Note 7 is directly a result of the battery since Samsung had two manufacturers make batteries and in both instances Note 7 devices with either battery still failed.
Is there any particular strategy you use with this respect?
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Click to collapse
As long as the device is working properly meaning there's no defect that I am aware of (as in no global recall in effect, etc) in any part of the power or charging systems then I tend to leave my devices plugged in until they charge to 100% status then I'll usually leave them connected to the charger for up to 30 minutes past that point then disconnect. With the GS7A I have, I only charge it once every 2.5-3 days typically and that's from 5-10% back to 100% using a Samsung 2A charger - I don't use the factory fast charger and I don't use fast charging because I believe that ends up shortening the potential lifespan of the battery cell itself.
I did not say that's a fact for everyone to live by or accept as the gospel truth, I said for myself personally I believe that fast charging shortens the lifespan of the battery cell itself.
For the record I've owned several hundred devices over the decades, some with Ni-Cad batteries, most with Li-Ion over the past decade, and a few with Li-Po technolology and I only had one instance of a battery having a problem (not a failure). It was a knockoff cheap Chinese clone battery for my Galaxy S4 Active several years ago and it bloated up one afternoon - thankfully that GS4A had a removable back cover and I caught the swelling up very fast because as soon as it started to bloat up the back cover literally popped off about 4 inches above my desk and landed on my keyboard. I of course took the battery out immediately and put it in a small ceramic box my Wife had laying around, nothing else happened and I ended up taking it to a local battery store here in Las Vegas and turning it in for safe destruction.
See, there really is a good reason to have removable batteries and removable back covers on some devices.
Or do you rather think that the failure rate being so low it's rather silly to worry about it?
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Click to collapse
As stated above, I don't believe the actual point of failure with the Note 7 is the battery directly - the burning up and explosions of the battery cells is the effect, not the cause. Something is happening to cause the battery (now two different ones, which most of us know about now) to fail.
Now it remains to be seen if the cause can be determined for the failures.
There is one other, perhaps more placebo induced effect, routine I'd do every once in a while, related to battery calibration. So I'd let the battery go as low as can possibly go, or let it turn off by itself, charge at cold until 100% then power on while still plugged in and finally unplug when os fully booted up.
Is this still a proper thing to do or it rather stresses the battery uselessly?
After I got this GS7A I did allow it to run down entirely till it shut off once, just one time and I actually got concerned because when I then plugged in the charger all I got on the display was a battery outline (the white battery icon that's hollowed out) and I was expecting the lightning-bolt symbol to appear there to indicate yes it's charging, after which it should change into the progress meter along the inside bottom of the icon.
That didn't happen.
So I sat there waiting. 5 minutes went by, then about 10 minutes, and I started to worry that perhaps I'd just killed it completely. But about 11 minutes after I plugged in the charger the lightning bolt appeared for about 10 seconds, flashing a few times, then I saw a thin green line across the bottom. Success!
But it did pretty much scare me for a few minutes at the thought of potentially ruining it by doing that so, I don't intend to ever let that happen. Your practice you mentioned of using Tasker to shut down at 5% (not a complete discharge like I did that one time) and to stop charging at 95% is a good idea and something I'm going to have to do more research into.
I've spent a lot of time over the years reading research papers at Battery University and I know that full discharge of a Li-Ion cell is a bad idea but I still ended up doing it. I was actually trying to capture a screenshot at 1% then I planned to initiate a shutdown immediately after that but taking the screenshot just killed it, oops.
But the idea of shutdown at maybe 4% and stopping the charging at 95% (or at least providing me with some kind of alert I can hear clearly and charge or disconnect as required) is a very good idea so thanks for mentioning that.
My research and understanding of the available info at Battery University is that it's better to do your best to not let a Li-Ion cell go below at least 30-40% charged most of the time with short periods of charging to bring it back up to the 90-95% point and, and occasionally - like maybe once a month - allow it to go deeper into the discharge state but not fully (I learned my lesson on that one) and then charge it back to full. The question is what that "full" point might be because some papers say charging Li-Ion to full capacity ruins them as time passes and other papers say it's just fine to do so occasionally - the problem is there's no absolute consensus on either method.
The deep discharge method once a month might work better as a method of calibrating (?!?!) but I honestly don't know for sure, not sure anyone does. But I think I'm going to start using Tasker for that 4-5% shutdown and 95% top off point on my Active, it sure can't actually hurt the device and could give me longer battery lifespan or should I say longevity as you did - that word actually seems more appropriate because most folks hear "battery lifespan" and they only understand that to mean how long it runs on a single charge which isn't the meaning I'm trying to get across.
all i can say after this incident , my knowledge of ion battery deepen and yes in case of emergency , you cant remove if its seal tight shut inside , something to consider , Samsung .
for me, no it's not made me more wary, I always am re Li cells as there have been many failures not only in phones. I have laptops, eCigs, torches etc that all use Li cells. That said, I use the devices as "normal" but stay aware of how warm they've gotten in charge/use, try to not drop them or leave them on/in a source of external heating etc. Anything containing combustible material can go bang after all. A disposable lighter left on an iron fireplace with the fire burning goes bang very well indeed, as would one of these cells in the same circumstances
I tend to top off the charge regularly since I have Qi chargers on my desk and in the car holder but never charge overnight while I sleep. I'd guess my operating capacity ranges from 100% down to maybe 30% and mainly hanging in the 60-80% range as the device tops up. SatNav tends to mean in-car the device only gathers a minor gain even over a couple hours use as the draw from the screen/cpu offsets the input from the Qi charger plate. The phone of course gets warm in this mode, hence it is set halfway down on the centre dash rather than up high and in the sun. And no I'm not always looking at it - voice guidance is very handy
On charge levels, I've also read a number of articles on various cell types. Typically the recommendations are that Li cells effectively eat themselves if kept at 100%, degrading and losing capacity over time. Hence its best if storing them to have them at 50-70% and not fully charged. Of course whether the phone actually takes the cell to its 100% limit or its charge management calls 100% at the 95% of cell capacity I don't know. When fully discharge has happened then yes it does seem to take longer for the charge icon to start ticking along, seen the same on the old iPad-1 I have, probably because the initial part has to be a very slow energising charge to get the cell to a point when it can accept more current and maybe the icon only shows rates above a certain current.
re the swelling cell. I've not used non-Samsung cells in my note 1/3 or S2 but have seen Sammy's cells also swell when they get to end of life. Both notes had this happen around the 18-26 month mark but not to the extent of the back popping off/open. Dramatic shortening of on-battery runtime yes, but from the outside no real visible indications that anything was up.
NO, LiPo, and Li ion batts are everywhere why worry about, I have had dozens of LiPo an LiOn powered devices
What about Li-On batteries though?
Hasn't changed for me either. But it has made me more wary of Samsung devices. There no way I'm getting the s8 (or note 8) no matter how great the features are. They can't even figure out what's wrong with the note 7.. Who's to say their upcoming phones won't have the same problem.
The only thing that worries me is that it may become even harder to get batteries and such shipped to Hawaii, it's horrible.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N930A using Tapatalk
Related
How to smart charge the Galaxy Note 2 battery
The way you charge your device is very important and it can affect your battery life a lot. Charging it wrong will make it drain quickly and the battery will also last less, requiring a replacement after 1-2 years of use.
To smart charge the Galaxy Note 2, you have to only plug it in when the battery is below the 10% level and never unplug it until it is 100% charged.
You should also know that when your battery reaches 10%, it will last longer than usual. To understand better, it will drain much slower from 10% to 0% than from 20% to 10%. So don’t panic if your battery level is low, because it can hold for a very long time, especially in standby mode.
Never use low quality chargers, because they can damage your battery hand even the device. Only use original Galaxy Note 2 chargers and try not to use the USB cable for charging your device. Always charge it in the wall socket, because the USB port power fluctuates and can damage the battery. Also it will charge much slower.
Battery maintenance
Usually the battery is the first smartphone component that dies, having a lower lifecycle. Though you can prevent this by taking care of it.
The best way to prevent it from getting damaged is to avoid pulling it from its socket. The battery has some golden pins that can scratch or get dusty, so if you pull it out and back in multiple times you can damage the pins.
In order to help the battery work the way it should, always make sure to clean the pins with a soft cloth whenever you pull it out. This way you will keep dust away from them.
When buying a new Galaxy Note 2 battery, make sure to get an original one, as other might have a lower battery life and can have a shorter lifecycle.
Increase Galaxy Note battery life by disabling features
The Samsung Galaxy Note 2 N7100 comes with tons as features, like we just said at the beginning. But nearly all of them are big battery eaters and you need to be careful when activating them.
The CPU and display drain a lot of battery, so make sure to setup the display to turn off faster. Also don’t keep it turned on when you don’t need it.
3G and 4G are the biggest battery drainers on a smartphone. You should only keep the 3G or 4G network activated when you use the internet actively. If you really need a permanent internet connection, then go for 2G, though this eats your battery too. The best way is to only connect to the internet when you need it.
Do not keep the WiFi,Bluetooth and GPS activated when you don’t use them. They can drain your battery very fast even in idle mode, so make sure to disable them when you don’t need them anymore.
Live wallpapers are also big battery drainers. They consume a lot of CPU and RAM resources and also use your display more intensively. So you should never choose a live wallpaper. The most battery-friendly wallpaper is a dark one, which doesn’t use any CPU resources and also doesn’t requires the display to be very bright.
You also have to take care what apps you install and always look at Settings > battery to see who drains the most battery. There are some apps than run continuously and prevent your device from getting into “Deep Sleep.” This is the standby mode that helps the device conserve very much energy. If an app prevents it from getting into this mode, you will notice a very low battery life.
Please let us know if you found other ways to increase the Galaxy Note 2 battery life. We are also curious for how long did you manage to get your device running between charges.
wow thanks mate quite a good one!
Thanks!
Also you should add that if you always need to be connected to internet then its better to keep connected through WiFi as it consumes less energy than using EDGE or 3G.
Sent from the rabbit hole.
Thanks it's useful
What?
No.
1. Deep charge cycles on a lithium battery accelerate the failure of the battery.
2. The device can determine the type of source it's plugged into, computer usb ports are safe.
3. Non branded chargers are safe if they are quality made. You just need to stick with quality and 2 amp/ short cables for decent charge times.
Sorry man, but those 3 things you listed are some pretty big misinformation that can easily be verified.
There's nothing "smart" about doing a deep discharge if your trying to preserve a 10 dollar battery.
After installing the new rom..I charge my battery full..then remove battery stats then drain full to zero for cycle.after complete ..I use smart charge method..that is .when my cell battery below to 10 something like 9 or 8 then I connect charger .and really it helps me alot
---------- Post added at 04:09 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:07 PM ----------
Smart charge method is kinda usefull
purged363506 said:
What?
No.
1. Deep charge cycles on a lithium battery accelerate the failure of the battery.
2. The device can determine the type of source it's plugged into, computer usb ports are safe.
3. Non branded chargers are safe if they are quality made. You just need to stick with quality and 2 amp/ short cables for decent charge times.
Sorry man, but those 3 things you listed are some pretty big misinformation that can easily be verified.
There's nothing "smart" about doing a deep discharge if your trying to preserve a 10 dollar battery.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
+1
Deep charge cycles are for avoid "memory effect" and It apply to old Ni-Cd / Ni-MH batteries. Don't apply for modern Li-Ion battery. There is much more chance that the deep drain affect negatively the battery of a GN2.
Li-Ion battery keep better performance if never going less than 50%. But the difference will be barely noticeable.
Personally, after several tests on my own, I don't bother anymore with that (I mean for the modern Li-Ion type). Sometime you have a great battery, sometime a crappy one from a bad batch. I have seen battery died fast after "by the book" charges cycles. And others seem to last forever, no matter how bad I maintained her (like my 2006's laptop).
Anyway, thanks for sharing, even if you are wrong on this one
I don't know if you're wrong or right because when you search the net about battery charging, you find everything and it's opposite. But I disagree on three points:
- The battery is beefy and you really have to work hard to make it last less than a day
- I bought this incredible phone because of it's features. If I have to cut half of them to avoid drain, why did I buy it?
- I dare say that most of the people who buy a Note 2 somewhere are a bit "Tech-Nuts". If you're not, I am, so I don't mind if my battery doesn't last two years because I'm not sure that I will still have this phone all that long.
And if I do and the battery is dead, I'll buy a new, genuine, Sammy one to continue.
What's it worth to live 100 years if you can't have a drink from time to time, maybe have a smoke or whatever? Plug your phone in or out and use your GNote 2 happy
Lol everything has its cost turn off everything to save battery what is fun in that I have a smartphone to use it and be happy with animations and display and games otherwise get a 3310 it is best
Sent from my GT-N7100 using xda app-developers app
I'm a complete noob on wireless charging and this is the first time I have bought a device that has it. I bought the plain flat wireless charger for use with this Note 7 to have by my computer desk and now I'm thinking of getting one for where I place my phone every night to charge. My question to anyone who has had extensive use with wireless charging, is it ok to ONLY use wireless charging? Even overnight? Not sure if it matters but I turn my phone off to charge every night.
You should have no problems only using the wireless charger. The only difference is that wirelessly charging your phone will be slower then using the fast charging cable that came with the phone.
Side note, I've started turning off fast charging when i charge overnight. Don't need it to charge quicker at that point and figure it may give the battery some extra life after a while. I usually avoid charging overnight so it doesn't sit at 100% for hours.
Back on topic, I think wireless creates more heat...heat bad...do the math. Plus taking it on/off charger constantly is def no good.
Only wireless charge my s7 edge and doing the same with my note 7.
If the battery get very low and i need to use the phone ill put it on the cable.
But no damage will happen. The phone has built in safety and the charger does also.
tgtoys said:
Side note, I've started turning off fast charging when i charge overnight. Don't need it to charge quicker at that point and figure it may give the battery some extra life after a while. I usually avoid charging overnight so it doesn't sit at 100% for hours.
Back on topic, I think wireless creates more heat...heat bad...do the math. Plus taking it on/off charger constantly is def no good.
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Click to collapse
pointless, its all software controlled.
ducksauce88 said:
I'm a complete noob on wireless charging and this is the first time I have bought a device that has it. I bought the plain flat wireless charger for use with this Note 7 to have by my computer desk and now I'm thinking of getting one for where I place my phone every night to charge. My question to anyone who has had extensive use with wireless charging, is it ok to ONLY use wireless charging? Even overnight? Not sure if it matters but I turn my phone off to charge every night.
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Click to collapse
Hi. I feel your frustration!
I did a little online research regarding battery life and charging and found a site that has real qualified experts with Ph.D's in this science.
Bottom line is all charging shortens battery life.
It appears to come down to a few rules.
Don't fully charge your battery. IE don't leave it on all night as we do.
Don't let your battery fully drain.
Don't use quick charging.
Don't use wireless charge.
Use the proprietary charger that comes with your mobile. (mine came with a quick charger though?).
Heat and built in obsolescence seem to be the problem. Its very complex and its best you Google this subject yourself as there are so many forum 'experts' one never knows what to believe.
Did you know that fast charging stops at 60% and then goes to trickle? If that's the case why cant we fast charge....its so confusing.
Research this yourself. Its best.
Ryland
NOT a battery expert!
Ryland Johnson said:
It appears to come down to a few rules.
Don't fully charge your battery. IE don't leave it on all night as we do.
Don't let your battery fully drain.
Don't use quick charging.
Don't use wireless charge.
Use the proprietary charger that comes with your mobile. (mine came with a quick charger though?).
Heat and built in obsolescence seem to be the problem. Its very complex and its best you Google this subject yourself as there are so many forum 'experts' one never knows what to believe.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
.
I am not certain we should worry so much about all this. At the end of the day we have to put a certain level of trust in the manufacturer of the phone, that they have put the effort in to making sure we don't damage or shorten the length of life to the device because of the technology they have introduced.
For the record, I 'slow-wireless' charge my devices overnight and top up on a fast charge cable whenever I need to. I never let it completely discharge and I don't recharge above 80% generally. No noticeable issues over the past 2yrs.
.
Thanks for all the reply guys. I wasn't really worried about the it being overnight since I know that these manufacturers let it get to 100% and the let it drain, then charge again so it's never fully saying at 100%. I just didn't know the long term effect of wireless charging. Looks like all charging effects it. Haha. I'll turn off quick charge and see if that helps anything. I work form home so I'm almost always by my charger. I guess i just shouldn't be as worried because no matter what the battery will get worse over time. I bet it's not really hard to pull the back off this phone either to replace it.
i killed tupac said:
pointless, its all software controlled.
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Click to collapse
Wanna elaborate on that one? Pretty sure everything I said was correct, but if not please do grace us more with something more than "pointless".
apprentice said:
.
I am not certain we should worry so much about all this. At the end of the day we have to put a certain level of trust in the manufacturer of the phone, that they have put the effort in to making sure we don't damage or shorten the length of life to the device because of the technology they have introduced.
For the record, I 'slow-wireless' charge my devices overnight and top up on a fast charge cable whenever I need to. I never let it completely discharge and I don't recharge above 80% generally. No noticeable issues over the past 2yrs.
.
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Click to collapse
Hi, Cant disagree with what you write however......lol. Many years ago a doctor would prescribe medication and said medication came with no manufacturers information just the dosage and time that our doctor prescribed.
These days drug manufacturers have to give highly detailed literature with all medications. Here is my point at last.
If you read the blurb given, for say a pain killer, it may list pain as one of the side effects. I once purchased an over the counter sea sickness remedy for my son and in the blurb it gave NAUSEA as a side effect! Certain antidepressants can cause suicide! Now if we parallel this to company's who 'just' manufacture mobile phones imagine what they know that they DON'T inform us about? Just food for thought. :highfive:
Oh another point...how many owners actually read that massive manufacturers owners manual? Should the owners manual be read no end of situations and misfortunes would and could be understood and avoided.
Ryland
tgtoys said:
Wanna elaborate on that one? Pretty sure everything I said was correct, but if not please do grace us more with something more than "pointless".
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Click to collapse
sorry. the software and power managment in Android will not allow the battery to destroy itself or even degrade itself. it does not matter anymore how you charge them, for how long, etc. The only thing that can harm it is cheap cables that fail and cross wires externally, which then route voltage into the port.
i killed tupac said:
sorry. the software and power managment in Android will not allow the battery to destroy itself or even degrade itself. it does not matter anymore how you charge them, for how long, etc. The only thing that can harm it is cheap cables that fail and cross wires externally, which then route voltage into the port.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I know the software will help it last longer and not do immediate damage, but you can most definitely degrade it quicker.
This Amazon Fire phone has been around almost 5 years, and its just started to get buggy on me. The battery will keep switching from whatever I have currently to 50%, so something like going from 78% to 50% or from 32% to 50%. In addition to this, my phone won't charge. It keeps switching to charged and not charged.
Not only is it this, but at the same time i've been getting "Invalid SIM" in place. I'd have to restart it once or twice to get my data back and all, and it would happen frequently. All of this started about two or three days ago, and now I can't turn on my phone because it's not charged but also displays 50%.
Any advice on what to do? Is this the death of my phone? I'd be more descriptive but I'm not too familiar with anything around here nor am I very educated with phones, I've just been told to post here in hopes for help.
sl0rg said:
This Amazon Fire phone has been around almost 5 years, and its just started to get buggy on me.
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Click to collapse
Must be because you have a VERY early prototype considering it didn't announce to the rest of the world until July 2014.
Seriously though, batteries die. If you've been a heavy user for 3 years, it's time to hold a wake and then move on.
Plonko said:
Must be because you have a VERY early prototype considering it didn't announce to the rest of the world until July 2014.
Seriously though, batteries die. If you've been a heavy user for 3 years, it's time to hold a wake and then move on.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I replaced the battery in January and its been holding up, but you're right. Looks like I better start looking for a new phone haha.
sl0rg said:
I replaced the battery in January and its been holding up, but you're right. Looks like I better start looking for a new phone haha.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
For all the phones I have owned over the years, this usually happens if the battery is going bad. You say you replaced battery in January, so, I am guessing the replacement battery was not original but rather a cheap made in China oem replacement because an original battery for this phone is suppose to give you around 750 charge cycles.
Install the app called 'Charge Cycle Battery Stats' from Google Play, which among other things, will show you how many cycles your battery have on it currently. Other than that, I would suggest buy another battery, or buy one of the defective Amazon fire phones on eBay (sometimes a phone with broken screen goes for almost same price as you would find a cheap, not original battery for) for parts, take out the battery from it and use that. At least this way you will be putting an original battery in your phone. Besides, while this phone was really good, it is pretty old by today's standards and on its way out especially due to outdated software, and it may not be worth spending more than $25 to fix it.
The battery that Amazon chose was made by a third party for them and it's different from other devices - it has a chip on it that literally reports the full capacity of the battery (from what I've been able to tell) to the battery charging circuit in the phone itself. When it reaches a point of about 30% - again from what I've been able to gather based on reports - meaning the lifespan capacity of the battery aka 30% of the full original charging capacity and not the daily "per charge" run time the battery charging circuit literally just shuts off the phone even though there's actually enough charge on the device to make it work even for short periods of time.
It's a pretty lame thing to do, it's basically killing the use of the phone even in spite of it being perfectly functional but with the reduced overall capacity to stay running for long periods of time. It's crappy business really but since Amazon didn't care then and doesn't care now it doesn't matter at all to 'em but to those of us that own Fire Phones (as I now do) I still say it's a pretty shoddy thing to force upon unsuspecting owners.
Anyway, once it gets to that point the battery charging circuit will shut the phone off and that's what the Amazon logo bootloop is caused by from my research. As noted above in another post, Li-Ion and even Li-Po batteries are generally considered to have overall lifespans of roughly 18 to 24 months based on people charging them at least once per day (it's not a perfect science since people plug in at various times). If you've had that Fire Phone since it came out that was literally 3 years ago (June 2014) and sold through AT&T stores in July 2014.
So, I don't know where that 5 year thing came from but it's not technically even 3 years old - that happens near the end of June so another 2 weeks to go. I know some folks are bad with dates and periods of time but there's a rather huge difference between 3 years and 5.
Fire phone battery indication
My Dad have been using this phone for a year and a half. The battery indicator doesn't move, it sticks to 100 percent and stays the whole day and suddenly it dies. Basically the battery indicator is not working, any ideas?
So I have the wireless charging mod and I have several wireless chargers “All the same brand and model” I mostly only use two. The one beside my bed and the one at work. I know this is going to sound crazy but when I use the charger beside my bed and charge to %100 the battery life is not nearly as long. It is enough to be VERY noticeable I have tested and compared like 6 times. Charging on both to 100% and just let the phone sit for an hour and when it is charged by the one beside my bed it drains about 20% faster. Can a charger effect battery life in this way????
Based on my experiences... yes!
enetec said:
Based on my experiences... yes!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've never had that happen till now. I wonder if that particular charger is going bad or something
X_man. said:
I've never had that happen till now. I wonder if that particular charger is going bad or something
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Experiment... swap the chargers? bring the work one home and vice versa? maybe different mains or "dirty mains" could be the culprit? see if the issue follows the charger or area?
Uzephi said:
Experiment... swap the chargers? bring the work one home and vice versa? maybe different mains or "dirty mains" could be the culprit? see if the issue follows the charger or area?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Great idea! I'll do that next week and post what happens.
X_man. said:
Great idea! I'll do that next week and post what happens.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Any time. I personally ran into that. It wasn't 20% more like 5% (average 3hr drain on my old Rezound was 2hrs and 45mins when charged from work. It was due to ingress on my work's lines that wasn't there at home. We had little oddities with some PC's until we found the UPS for our server was causing noise on our circuits).
This is absolutely normal. I build custom vape systems, some on li-poly Batts, some on li-ion. In both cases, charge rate -can- drastically affect charge effectiveness.
Most of this in your case likely has to do with thermal reads. Remember, not only is your phone and charger loaded with chips to be smart and safe about the charge, the battery (and sometimes individual cells within it) are also microchipped. Wireless charging creates a lot of heat. Should any one of the three components recognize this heat as excessive, the voltage will drop. I _believe_ this is most relevant during the end of "saturation" phase during charging, because if the battery says "no" during this phase, or anytime after (during completion/final) , the charger's subsequent "topping-charge" will also be denied. This kind of results in cycle of the charger saying "take it!" , The battery saying "no", dropping the voltage, the charger seeing the drop and expecting it to need a top-off and immediately trying to push again, repeat. The reason you're seeing the difference is because the charger is getting it's numbers from current output from the battery. The battery can drop down to zero current when overheated to prevent thermal rail? From occurring, which the charger then translates " 0 current must mean full".
That's one part of the difference, and not necessarily what is occurring... The other part has to do with manufacturing intent. Most USB 3.1/c power supplies are actually pushing out the maximum amperage and thus has a huge stage-1 charging state, with a minimum stage-2 (saturation) charging state. This basically translates into , your charger and phone are both lying when you rapid charge.
I'm sure I'm missing some facets or misrepresenting them here as I can't remember all the damn physics, but short story is: for absolute saturation, battery life, battery runtime, and safety... Charge at the same rate as battery discharge.
Edit: also what Uzephi mentioned about dirty power is also relevant. When power factors are not near 1.0 (1:1, meaning everything drawn is used, and everything requested is given), bad sh*t happens. This actually relates to the physical wave (sinusoidal) of electricity. All the anomalies are probably listed somewhere by some physicist, but suffice to say, there's a lot of possibilities, none of them "good" when out-of-phase power factors occur. This is why sensitive equipment almost always gets run through a power conditioner. The more sensitive and volatile the system, the more aggressive the conditioner needs to be (hence massive amplifiers for sound systems like the ones I use in my work need $200 glorified power strips).
Some_Donkus said:
This is absolutely normal. I build custom vape systems, some on li-poly Batts, some on li-ion. In both cases, charge rate -can- drastically affect charge effectiveness.
Most of this in your case likely has to do with thermal reads. Remember, not only is your phone and charger loaded with chips to be smart and safe about the charge, the battery (and sometimes individual cells within it) are also microchipped. Wireless charging creates a lot of heat. Should any one of the three components recognize this heat as excessive, the voltage will drop. I _believe_ this is most relevant during the end of "saturation" phase during charging, because if the battery says "no" during this phase, or anytime after (during completion/final) , the charger's subsequent "topping-charge" will also be denied. This kind of results in cycle of the charger saying "take it!" , The battery saying "no", dropping the voltage, the charger seeing the drop and expecting it to need a top-off and immediately trying to push again, repeat. The reason you're seeing the difference is because the charger is getting it's numbers from current output from the battery. The battery can drop down to zero current when overheated to prevent thermal rail? From occurring, which the charger then translates " 0 current must mean full".
That's one part of the difference, and not necessarily what is occurring... The other part has to do with manufacturing intent. Most USB 3.1/c power supplies are actually pushing out the maximum amperage and thus has a huge stage-1 charging state, with a minimum stage-2 (saturation) charging state. This basically translates into , your charger and phone are both lying when you rapid charge.
I'm sure I'm missing some facets or misrepresenting them here as I can't remember all the damn physics, but short story is: for absolute saturation, battery life, battery runtime, and safety... Charge at the same rate as battery discharge.
Edit: also what Uzephi mentioned about dirty power is also relevant. When power factors are not near 1.0 (1:1, meaning everything drawn is used, and everything requested is given), bad sh*t happens. This actually relates to the physical wave (sinusoidal) of electricity. All the anomalies are probably listed somewhere by some physicist, but suffice to say, there's a lot of possibilities, none of them "good" when out-of-phase power factors occur. This is why sensitive equipment almost always gets run through a power conditioner. The more sensitive and volatile the system, the more aggressive the conditioner needs to be (hence massive amplifiers for sound systems like the ones I use in my work need $200 glorified power strips).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Some very good points! Doesn't seem quite as strange now LOL Thanks!
@Some_Donkus than for your complete explanation...
I've found even "about same rate" chargers (measured on phones...) often differs in heating battery: on my old Moto Z, the OnePlus X charger and the Samsung Galaxy Tab one both charged my phone (quite fast...), BUT the first heated it A LOT more, while the second hot A LOT itself!!
I think it's related to components quality too...
What I don't undestand well is why the Incipio MotoMod battery, which charge the phone at quite low rate, is able to heat it more than fast chargers....!?!?
enetec said:
@Some_Donkus than for your complete explanation...
I've found even "about same rate" chargers (measured on phones...) often differs in heating battery: on my old Moto Z, the OnePlus X charger and the Samsung Galaxy Tab one both charged my phone (quite fast...), BUT the first heated it A LOT more, while the second hot A LOT itself!!
I think it's related to components quality too...
What I don't undestand well is why the Incipio MotoMod battery, which charge the phone at quite low rate, is able to heat it more than fast chargers....!?!?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Without knowing the specific charge voltage and stage setup of the individual batteries it's tough to speculate. One thing that comes in mind relates back to the power factors I was speaking of. It might actually be a high quality device that just has a lot of extra MOSFET + capacitors built in. These are used in order to "clean and manage" power on the fly. Capacitors are used to provide extra little bumps of discharge / supply when the battery cells themselves can't necessarily output enough mA/amp in a peak. MOSFETs do the opposite, providing a safe gateway for extra unused power either coming into the device from the battery, or from outside power to charging battery...
Both of these little guys basically are giant heat retainers (MOSFETs actually usually have heatsinks pasted to them, even the micro sized ones used in small devices)....
Just a thought.
Some_Donkus said:
...
Just a thought.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well, it surely could be but two weird things still happen with Incipio battery MOD (and, they say, NOT with the new Turbo Power which do fast charging instead! ):
- the overheat seems to be coming from the phone and not from the battery MOD...
- the Incipio battery MOD I have adds wireless charging too to the phone. What it's weird is that wireless charging phone (by the same rear connector on the phone) seems to overheat it less than using battery to charge it... (and battery charge rate is a bit lower...).
I think it could be related from the fact that battery MOD has probably to raise his voltage to charge phone... but strangely this overheats more phone than battery...!
enetec said:
Well, it surely could be but two weird things still happen with Incipio battery MOD (and, they say, NOT with the new Turbo Power which do fast charging instead! ):
- the overheat seems to be coming from the phone and not from the battery MOD...
- the Incipio battery MOD I have adds wireless charging too to the phone. What it's weird is that wireless charging phone (by the same rear connector on the phone) seems to overheat it less than using battery to charge it... (and battery charge rate is a bit lower...).
I think it could be related from the fact that battery MOD has probably to raise his voltage to charge phone... but strangely this overheats more phone than battery...!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ohhh, I see what you're saying...
Okay well, from what I understand, the Incipio Wireless mod actually charges the phone's battery first, THEN the pack within the mod. By default, magnetic induction (wireless charging method) actually will charge everything and anything within the field simultaneously.. but.. what I assume the incipio mod does is this....
Wireless charger sends out induction wave > (Induction wave charges both internal battery and mod for a moment) > Incipio mod get's a mV current reading from phone's internal battery > If internal phone battery mV current is ≠ 0, Incipio mod uses MOSFET's to gate-drain incoming charge from wireless for X amount of time (and possibly send charge to internal battery via connectors) + > induction wave continues to charge internal phone battery > Incipio takes another mV current reading from phone battery to see if it's full >>>
Cycle continues until Incipio gets mV current reading = 0, at which point it stops using gate-drains and accepts induction wave charge.
^^^ -IF- that's accurate, then it would mean that the Incipio mod is passing it's charge into the phone battery (received from induction wave) at the same time that the internal phone battery is receiving the induction wave from pad... So that internal battery is receiving a shiz-load of joose quickly...
again, pure speculation.... but it would make sense...
Hello everybody.
I just want to share with you guys what I found out.
I've been using custom ROMs and custom kernels for LG V30, and I faced a lot of issues. The most common issue is overheating, especially on charging or using mobile data.
I use Anker's adapter that supports Quick Charge 3.0, and an Anker USB-C to USB-3.0 cable. I use Ampere app to see how the battery is charge.
On custom ROMs, the ampere number (mA) changes every few seconds, jumps up and down with big gap, and the phone gets very hot.
On stock ROM (US99820H) in my case, mA number is very stable. It increases or decreases slowly and doesn't jump up and down. On plugging in, min and max mA are equal. The phone is just a little bit hotter than before plugging in.
So I just wanted to share my own experience with you guys. If you want you phone to last long, use Stock ROMs, disable bloatwares and useless system apps.
I'm going to purchase the battery and change it myself for better battery life. I wanted to change to another phone but for now, this is the best phone for music.
Please discuss if you disagree with me or have a solution for custom ROMs.
minhntp said:
Hello everybody.
I just want to share with you guys what I found out.
I've been using custom ROMs and custom kernels for LG V30, and I faced a lot of issues. The most common issue is overheating, especially on charging or using mobile data.
I use Anker's adapter that supports Quick Charge 3.0, and an Anker USB-C to USB-3.0 cable. I use Ampere app to see how the battery is charge.
On custom ROMs, the ampere number (mA) changes every few seconds, jumps up and down with big gap, and the phone gets very hot.
On stock ROM (US99820H) in my case, mA number is very stable. It increases or decreases slowly and doesn't jump up and down. On plugging in, min and max mA are equal. The phone is just a little bit hotter than before plugging in.
So I just wanted to share my own experience with you guys. If you want you phone to last long, use Stock ROMs, disable bloatwares and useless system apps.
I'm going to purchase the battery and change it myself for better battery life. I wanted to change to another phone but for now, this is the best phone for music.
Please discuss if you disagree with me or have a solution for custom ROMs.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I also felt the same...Though the charging speed on custom roms is higher...in terms of stability of current, Stock Rom is the best.
minhntp said:
Hello everybody.
I just want to share with you guys what I found out.
I've been using custom ROMs and custom kernels for LG V30, and I faced a lot of issues. The most common issue is overheating, especially on charging or using mobile data.
I use Anker's adapter that supports Quick Charge 3.0, and an Anker USB-C to USB-3.0 cable. I use Ampere app to see how the battery is charge.
On custom ROMs, the ampere number (mA) changes every few seconds, jumps up and down with big gap, and the phone gets very hot.
On stock ROM (US99820H) in my case, mA number is very stable. It increases or decreases slowly and doesn't jump up and down. On plugging in, min and max mA are equal. The phone is just a little bit hotter than before plugging in.
So I just wanted to share my own experience with you guys. If you want you phone to last long, use Stock ROMs, disable bloatwares and useless system apps.
I'm going to purchase the battery and change it myself for better battery life. I wanted to change to another phone but for now, this is the best phone for music.
Please discuss if you disagree with me or have a solution for custom ROMs.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
In terms of stability, I have different results, when I charge using a custom rom the phone tends to stay cool, but when I used the stock rom the phone got a lot hotter then before charging.
Custom ROMs may not be utilizing QC properly. QC 2.0 has few discrete voltage/current steps, while QC 3.0 has many (200mA increments iirc) designed to strike a balance between charging speed and heat. Maybe it's getting stuck in QC 2.0 mode and the temperature feedback isn't working properly?
You could just use a non-fast-charging wireless charger, if you're only charging up at night. 5v/~1A is pretty much harmless, it's just on the slow side of things.
fyi, battery capacity (as tracked by the charging controller driver, I guess) is stored at sys/class/power_supply/bms/charge_full; it defaults to design capacity until a full charge cycle has been completed* and then I suppose is revised each time the driver tracks less energy has been stored after a complete charge. Cycle count, cell resistance and a couple other things are also stored here. I think all values are persistent until the battery is physically disconnected.
Might be worth doing a full discharge+charge (to 100%, then let it sit for a few hours to saturate) to see if your battery is worn enough to warrant pulling the phone apart. Accubattery does seem to be more or less accurate, so you charge while it's on you can get a real-time idea of how much has gone in.
* a full charge might be from 1% to 100%. It might be from 5% to 100%. Who knows! I've charged from 2% to 100% a couple times and not had cycle_count increase.
Also, if you do go shopping, beware of undersized batteries. I bought an "OE spec" battery a while ago that was obviously thinner and lighter than the original; it weighed some 12.5% less and only took a 3000mah charge, more or less lining up with the reduced weight. The seller was "tele*cell", and I very much doubt they're the only ones pulling this crap. Record the contents of power_supply/bms if they're important to you, too, as they zero out upon battery disconnect.
edit: hmm, thinking about it...bms = Battery Management System? (not this one specifically, of course)
Septfox said:
Also, if you do go shopping, beware of undersized batteries. I bought an "OE spec" battery a while ago that was obviously thinner and lighter than the original; it weighed some 12.5% less and only took a 3000mah charge, more or less lining up with the reduced weight. The seller was "tele*cell", and I very much doubt they're the only ones pulling this crap. Record the contents of power_supply/bms if they're important to you, too, as they zero out upon battery disconnect.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It is possible that you bought a smaller battery - but you should know that the capacity of Li** batteries increases within the first couple of cycles. Also usually the nominal capacity might be different from the real (typical) capacity. So you would need to meassure a.new original battery against your replacement battery (not take the value LG tells us for.granted)
daniu said:
It is possible that you bought a smaller battery - but you should know that the capacity of Li** batteries increases within the first couple of cycles. Also usually the nominal capacity might be different from the real (typical) capacity. So you would need to meassure a.new original battery against your replacement battery (not take the value LG tells us for.granted)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Li-po capacity hasn't really gone anywhere in a while, and I wouldn't expect cheap eBay batteries to be using the newest and best chemistry. It was definitely undersize/weight; I attached some pictures.
Because I wanted to be absolutely sure before I called the seller on it, I purposefully ran it four full cycles, then built up another two during normal use. The best capacity that the BMS ever rated it for was 2980mah, while Accubattery put in something like...3060mah once with subsequent charges in the 2900-3000 range.
While I get what you're saying, I find it unlikely that the BMS would set to the expected design capacity if they were using undersize batteries from the factory.
The reason being that at a guess, the battery "fuel gauge" is probably based on capacity_full, which = capacity_full_design until set. With a new phone that isn't charged to 100% (thus setting capacity_full), if using the phone down to 1% you'd risk either a) the phone suddenly shutting down at ~10% or b) overdischarge damage if the battery is actually less than the phone's design capacity.
Kind of a corner case though, I'll admit, since this would only be on the first run.
Last, I submit my own OEM battery for consideration: prior to taking it out, it had accumulated 537 cycles and had a recorded capacity of 2485mah. That's about what I'd expect from a 3300mah battery that was almost certainly used "normally" e.g. discharged daily, charged nightly and left on the tap at full charge for hours on end.
Like you said, though, the only way to know for sure would be testing a new OEM battery, and we've been fresh out of those for a year and a half now. Maybe someone could nab one from one of their newer models and test for science? I already have too many spare lipo cells laying around.
Septfox said:
Custom ROMs may not be utilizing QC properly. QC 2.0 has few discrete voltage/current steps, while QC 3.0 has many (200mA increments iirc) designed to strike a balance between charging speed and heat. Maybe it's getting stuck in QC 2.0 mode and the temperature feedback isn't working properly?
You could just use a non-fast-charging wireless charger, if you're only charging up at night. 5v/~1A is pretty much harmless, it's just on the slow side of things.
fyi, battery capacity (as tracked by the charging controller driver, I guess) is stored at sys/class/power_supply/bms/charge_full; it defaults to design capacity until a full charge cycle has been completed* and then I suppose is revised each time the driver tracks less energy has been stored after a complete charge. Cycle count, cell resistance and a couple other things are also stored here. I think all values are persistent until the battery is physically disconnected.
Might be worth doing a full discharge+charge (to 100%, then let it sit for a few hours to saturate) to see if your battery is worn enough to warrant pulling the phone apart. Accubattery does seem to be more or less accurate, so you charge while it's on you can get a real-time idea of how much has gone in.
* a full charge might be from 1% to 100%. It might be from 5% to 100%. Who knows! I've charged from 2% to 100% a couple times and not had cycle_count increase.
Also, if you do go shopping, beware of undersized batteries. I bought an "OE spec" battery a while ago that was obviously thinner and lighter than the original; it weighed some 12.5% less and only took a 3000mah charge, more or less lining up with the reduced weight. The seller was "tele*cell", and I very much doubt they're the only ones pulling this crap. Record the contents of power_supply/bms if they're important to you, too, as they zero out upon battery disconnect.
edit: hmm, thinking about it...bms = Battery Management System? (not this one specifically, of course)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Do you have sleep problem after changing the battery? After changing the battery, my phone doesn't go to sleep when the screen is off, so the battery just keeps draining. I'm using stock ROM. I don't know if this is a software of hardware issue.
minhntp said:
Do you have sleep problem after changing the battery? After changing the battery, my phone doesn't go to sleep when the screen is off, so the battery just keeps draining. I'm using stock ROM. I don't know if this is a software of hardware issue.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The only thing notable that happened was the battery stats getting wiped. Otherwise the phone behaved normally.
Try getting BetterBatteryStats, second post has the newest apk attached (2.3 iirc).
Start it up to get it established, Set Custom Ref. from the menu, shut the screen off for...ehh...20min.
Turn it back on, select Custom in the left drop-down menu and Current in the right drop-down menu.
Check Kernel Wakelocks and Partial Wakelocks using the top drop-down menu to see if anything sticks out.
Septfox said:
Li-po capacity hasn't really gone anywhere in a while, and I wouldn't expect cheap eBay batteries to be using the newest and best chemistry. It was definitely undersize/weight; I attached some pictures.
Because I wanted to be absolutely sure before I called the seller on it, I purposefully ran it four full cycles, then built up another two during normal use. The best capacity that the BMS ever rated it for was 2980mah, while Accubattery put in something like...3060mah once with subsequent charges in the 2900-3000 range.
While I get what you're saying, I find it unlikely that the BMS would set to the expected design capacity if they were using undersize batteries from the factory.
The reason being that at a guess, the battery "fuel gauge" is probably based on capacity_full, which = capacity_full_design until set. With a new phone that isn't charged to 100% (thus setting capacity_full), if using the phone down to 1% you'd risk either a) the phone suddenly shutting down at ~10% or b) overdischarge damage if the battery is actually less than the phone's design capacity.
Kind of a corner case though, I'll admit, since this would only be on the first run.
Last, I submit my own OEM battery for consideration: prior to taking it out, it had accumulated 537 cycles and had a recorded capacity of 2485mah. That's about what I'd expect from a 3300mah battery that was almost certainly used "normally" e.g. discharged daily, charged nightly and left on the tap at full charge for hours on end.
Like you said, though, the only way to know for sure would be testing a new OEM battery, and we've been fresh out of those for a year and a half now. Maybe someone could nab one from one of their newer models and test for science? I already have too many spare lipo cells laying around.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What is the full capacity when you put those 2 battery in?
I just bought a battery. This new one has 6 symbols each line (like the one you bought) and 2 lines of manufactured date. The old (original) one has 5 symbols each line and also 2 lines of manufatured date.
When I check "charge_full" after full charging, it shows 3312000 for the original battery and 3230000 for the new one, while the "charge_full_design" being 3312000 for both battery.
minhntp said:
What is the full capacity when you put those 2 battery in?
I just bought a battery. This new one has 6 symbols each line (like the one you bought) and 2 lines of manufactured date. The old (original) one has 5 symbols each line and also 2 lines of manufatured date.
When I check "charge_full" after full charging, it shows 3312000 for the original battery and 3230000 for the new one, while the "charge_full_design" being 3312000 for both battery.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
All three batteries I've had showed the same 3312000 charge_full_design. But I'm not sure if this is relevant to us, aside from as a reference to compare to.
Out of curiosity and so I don't purposely give outright bad information, I went and looked at the kernel (up on github courtesy of lunar-kernels).
3300mah design capacity is set when the kernel is built (BLT34 battery profile, which is grabbed by the power manager).
I'm not sure where the number "3312000" specifically is coming from. I can't read the source for the BMS well enough to tell why it's coming up with that number, aside from it's a calculated result based on more than just the design capacity.
Based on the above and other behavior, I don't think any permanent information is stored with or retrieved from the battery itself; design parameters are set in the BLT34 profile and then the BMS amends certain things as it takes measurements. It assumes that whatever attached battery is actually 3300/3312mah until proven otherwise (calibrated with sufficient cycling).
Said measurements are stored ~somewhere~ outside of the ROM, recovery and download mode - mine persisted through the LAFsploit process and TWRP on both partitions - and cleared when power is lost. Maybe they're stored in RAM somewhere? Maybe the BMS notices the discontinuity in power and assumes a battery change, resetting everything? I'll try making sense of the kernel source to see...
The labeling difference is curious, and something I hadn't really given thought to. The newer ones have NOM and NYCE marks, which are Mexican safety approval things. It's interesting that the originals don't have them; maybe because LG doesn't make phones for the Mexican market and thus saw no need? I doubt these third-party manufacturers have gone out of their way to actually obtain said approval...probably just stuck them there to satisfy customs.
I bought a battery from another seller and installed it this weekend; it uses the 12-symbol style as well, has date+date code like the original (dated a rather shiny 2019.09.08!), and weighs the expected 48g/has an OE-style "stepped" back making it thicker.
Seems to charge fully and otherwise work as expected. charge_full still = charge_full_design, I'm not sure if this is because the BMS has determined that it's an OEM-capacity battery, or it hasn't cycled sufficiently to update. Gonna keep an eye on it. Pictures attached.
Edit: battery listing on ebay. Note if anyone else buys it: the suction cup that came with mine was 100% useless. Plan accordingly.
-
A further note on the smaller battery I bought: it did perform admirably. It had no issues when using the phone as a power supply (~2.5A sustained output), right down to where I stopped it at 5%, which is rather abusive for cells in this form-factor. It was just...well...smaller. It certainly wasn't a bad battery at all, it was just misrepresented. Lighter/slightly-smaller batteries would make great travel batteries, if the V30 were swap-friendly...
-
@Septfox
I hope you bought a good one.
The battery I bought lasts long, but also takes long to charge (about 2 hours). The phone shows fast-charging but when I check battery log in Hidden menu, it shows only Quick charge 2.0.
I found a way to reset the battery information, hopefully sellers don't use this to reset the cycle count.
There's a thread on xda that shows a method to reset battery information on HTC phones. That is holding down 2 volume buttons + power button (volume down + power for LG V30) in 2 minutes while the phone is being charged, let the phone restart as many times it takes in 2 minutes. And then charge the phone to full.
I did that and when I check in Hidden menu, the battery information was resetted to 3312000 full capacity and 0 cycle count.
minhntp said:
@Septfox
The battery I bought lasts long, but also takes long to charge (about 2 hours). The phone shows fast-charging but when I check battery log in Hidden menu, it shows only Quick charge 2.0.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
QC 3.0 wouldn't outright increase the speed any; it exists to help reduce heat and provide more consistent charging.
If it makes you feel any better, mine is also getting stuck on QC 2.0. Judging by the way the Parallel Charging status flickers on and off as I move the cable and put pressure on the connector, I could probably stand to get a new charging port...
This is why wireless charging is a good idea. But now that I think about it, replacement boards are cheap on ebay ($5), so replacing it each time the battery is changed might be a good bit of cheap maintenance to do :good:
Have you tried a different cable and/or charger to see if your charging improves? Maybe you need a new port, too.
minhntp said:
I found a way to reset the battery information, hopefully sellers don't use this to reset the cycle count.
There's a thread on xda that shows a method to reset battery information on HTC phones. That is holding down 2 volume buttons + power button (volume down + power for LG V30) in 2 minutes while the phone is being charged, let the phone restart as many times it takes in 2 minutes. And then charge the phone to full.
I did that and when I check in Hidden menu, the battery information was resetted to 3312000 full capacity and 0 cycle count.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I find this slightly alarming, actually...
The normal button combination to hard-reset the phone is power+vol down. This might just be what's happening, and by making the phone do it repeatedly, the firmware might be interpreting it as a bootloop condition caused by something in memory and completely disconnecting power in an attempt to mitigate it (clearing the battery stats in the process). Probably harmless though.
Dunno that a seller would bother trying it, though. What do they get out of it, other than a seemingly-new battery with less capacity than it should have? It would just recalibrate when charged and show the real capacity in the hidden menu, and the game would be up :v
Septfox said:
QC 3.0 wouldn't outright increase the speed any; it exists to help reduce heat and provide more consistent charging.
If it makes you feel any better, mine is also getting stuck on QC 2.0
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
All V30 always show QuickCharge 2.0 in Nougat as well as Oreo. Not sure about Pie.
Speculation was it was a script error, that it was really 3.0 -- but falsely shows 2.0.
Can't remember if it was ever proven one way or the other.
I do remember people say it now charges slower on Pie. Again speculative because LG knows batteries are older?
I'm still on rooted Oreo, so I don't care.
ChazzMatt said:
I do remember people say it now charges slower on Pie. Again speculative because LG knows batteries are older?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't notice my phone charging any different. Even when using wired.
Sent from my LG-H932 using XDA Labs
ChazzMatt said:
All V30 always show QuickCharge 2.0 in Nougat as well as Oreo. Not sure about Pie.
Speculation was it was a script error, that it was really 3.0 -- but falsely shows 2.0.
Can't remember if it was ever proven one way or the other.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I read "the display may not be correct, so you should totally use this as an excuse to get a newer charger-doctor that supports QC".
...and you're completely right, I'm gonna go do that :v
ChazzMatt said:
I do remember people say it now charges slower on Pie. Again speculative because LG knows batteries are older?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Or to mitigate further aging by reducing internal heat. I also remember seeing somewhere that it was limited to 12w or 13w, now that you mention it, though that might have been for 15w wireless which has a reputation for slow-cooking the battery (in any phone, not just the V30).