Battery case disassembly (EB-TN930) - Samsung Galaxy Note FE Accessories

Out of curiosity, boredom, and a couple touches of stupidity, I picked up one of the official Samsung battery cases for the original Note 7 to mess around with. I knew going in that it wasn't fully compatible with the FE, but I figured for $7 I might as well take a look and see if there was anything I could do to make it work.
Unfortunately, due in combination to me lacking the proper tools and Samsung's undying love for using strong adhesive to seal together 92% of all products they make, I (probably) took a couple SMDs off the logic board while disassembling the thing. At least, that's my best guess, as it now isn't recognized by my FE at all and just blinks all 4 power indicator LEDs at me. But I figured I'd at least post some pics of the disassembly for you fine folk in case someone smarter (or dumber, who knows) can figure this thing out.
If you decide to go down the disassembly route, just remember that there is a battery inside. One of the same type that made the FE's predecessor go explodey. One that'll make your day substantially worse if you manage to puncture it. Just remember that before you take your screwdriver and go Edward Stabbyhands on everything.
Not sure if this is the right section to be posting in; my apologies if it's not.
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Step 1) - Remove cover with FCC markings (hereon referred to as "FCC cover")
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This cover is held on solely by adhesive.
Grab something very small and sharp; in my case I used a small jeweler's screwdriver and a folding utility knife. Take the screwdriver and wedge it between the FCC cover and the outer plastic case. There's a hard plastic cover underneath the FCC cover, so don't be afraid of damaging anything underneath.
Using the screwdriver as a lever, pry the FCC cover up just enough to get the knife inside; from there, just cut through the adhesive holding the FCC cover to the hard plastic cover underneath. There's significantly more adhesive at the top of the case (near the camera cutout), so I'd recommend starting this procedure from the bottom of the case.
Step 2) - Undo screws
Unscrew the 9 screws seen below. Pretty self-explanatory.
Step 3) - Remove hard plastic cover underneath FCC cover
This cover is held on by a combination of adhesive (around the edges only) and plastic clips.
After unscrewing the screws, repeat step 1) for the hard plastic cover underneath the FCC cover. Since this cover is much more rigid than the FCC cover, you'll need to apply more strength than in step 1). What helped for me was basically chipping away at one edge of the cover until I made a gap large enough to insert my screwdriver into; from there I just pried the cover up enough to get one of my fingers under, after which I just ran my finger around to undo the clips.
Note that the guts of the case reside under this cover, so *be careful. Take a look at the pics at the bottom of this post for the layout of things inside before you start this step.*
I started prying up from the top right of the case; now that I know what's going on underneath I would've started anywhere along the bottom half of the case.
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The three main pieces, all together:
Just the guts:
Closeup of PCB:
That's it, go knock yourselves out. I'm a bit knackered right now so lemme know if something above is unclear or if you want me to try doing something else before throwing it away.

as this hasn't been changed since the note 7, any defuncting must be software related, not battery related. Interesting tho.

Related

Easy & Quick solutions: loose battery cover and that thingy under transparent strip

Easy & Quick solutions: loose battery cover and that thingy under transparent strip
Hello, lately i had problems with loose battery cover on my Xperia S, and, thinking about getting it even more loosy by leaving that be brought me to tinkering with easy and cheap solution, and i've found revertible and easy solution for both issues.
Loose battery cover:
A tiny layer of hot glue placed here (image 1) can fix your solution. Keep in mind that too thick layer can bulge the cover a little, work quickly and press on the S(E) logo firmly after cover installation to make the layer as thin as possible. Only drawback is that the glue needs to be reapplied every time you need to change your SIM card. glue can be easily removed without leaving any trace on the phone in case of warranty service request or selling the phone... to remove the cover just use a little bit more force than you are used to.
Image 1 - Personally recommended place to put the hot glue layer:
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Loose plastic thingy covering antenna under transparent strip:
Using a gutiar pick or any similar object (definately NOT screwdrivers or any other metal tools, nails - they are too solid, too, and might damage the plastic, it's better to destroy gutiar pick than look of your treasured phone, trust me)
The picture below shows how to properly remove the thin plastic covering antenna:
Just be carefull and do not use too much force, the plastic is really thin... it might be kinda tricky but you should figure it out eventually...
after successfully removing the cover, use some glue designed to make plastic to plastic connections. (NOTE: cyanoacrylate based glues are not recommended - in case you need to put the cover off again, you will most likely destroy it... I've personally used Revell contacta glue compound designed to glue plastic models - it is firm, but the glue can be easily removed with little effort and the joint is not too superior so it will break sooner than the plastic cover)
After putting few drops of glue (the less is better) just carefully put it back in - this should be easier than removing it, just be sure to fit it properly, it's kinda PITA to put it back down... Let the glue dry and enjoy
DISCLAIMER:
Despite both methods are used and tested for one month by me, I take no responsibility for results. Basics of workmanship skills required (or at least recommended, if you are not comfy with putting your phone apart even a little, then entrust with the work somebody you believe he can get the job done, or just forget about this thread
Nice tips, although I solved the loose battery cover by placing two small bits of blu-tack on top of the two screws at the bottom left and right of the back. That has solved the issue without needing to reglue or get messy every time you need access to the SIM.
Thanks for another tip, when i need to access my SIM card i'll try your method, I've considered it first but i was sceptical a bit about the potential results
loose back cover
I actually just rolled some normal tape on itself and stuck it on the spot where the glue is put (didn't have glue).. Works perfect as well
The tape i've tryed now is most likely using weaker glue than yours and it's not as firm as i would expect but it's quicker solution and undoubtly less messy, not to mention that it doesn't require quick manipulation... I've used standard office transparent tape... i've no access to my toolbox atm as i'm @ work, so i'll try stronger tape when i return home... thanks for your tip

Case + Cradle? Impossible? NOT ANYMORE!

So, you have a shiny new Galaxy S3 and you know that you're prone to dropping it into caves, diving into oceans with it in your pocket, or running it over with your tank, so like any smart individual you opted to buy yourself a super protective case like Otterbox Defender or similar. Problem is now you've just taken out the possibility of placing it in a charging cradle, or some sort of desktop holding device, right? Not Anymore!
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With a few simple and cheap items, you can make yourself one that doesn't look like a 7 year old kid put it together during arts and crafts!
Here's a list of what you'll need, starting from most expensive to possibly free if your boss isn't looking
Logitech MX Revolution Mouse - you only need the charging cradle, but it'll be tough finding just the cradle without this fantastic Wiltron recommended mouse - eBay average pricing at time of posting was about $15-30 dollars for the mouse and cradle. We're going to be removing the guts of the cradle so the mouse wont be able to be charged any more after this.
USB Cable - The same one that came with your phone or an aftermarket one. Should have a good plastic head on it for stability, but the stock cable is fine too (that's what I'm using).
Tools - Drill, Screwdriver (+), Knife, Hot Glue or epoxy if you're fancy
(Optional) Expanding non-flammable foaming insulation - this is only for stability and additional weight, and is purely optional. I used it in one of the two cradles I made.
Once we've pilfered the office supply cabinet, it's time to get to work. Start by turning it over and peeling off the warning label and rubber feet. Save the little feet thingies as you'll need them later. There should be one or more screws to remove. My home cradle had 4 in a box shape, but the one I have at work only had one screw in the center. Once removed, hollow out the guts and kick them in a stylish fashion as you'll no longer need them. Seen in red below, push out that separator plate as that's what you'll be working with for drilling and gluing. Ignore the green part for now, that comes later.
You'll want to either stick the metal portion of the USB cable through a small drilled hole (or cut hole with the knife, depending on how badass you are), or if your case is substantially large, put a portion of the plastic housing around the USB head through a larger drilled (or cut) hole.
Once you've tested the seating of your phone with the position of the cable so that it will charge when seated, glue it in place in the red plate, and re-seat it into the cradle. Glue that plate in if it's loose. When the glue is dried, if you've opted to use the expanding foam, get foaming. Cut/file away excess foam, and then re-seal the bottom plate after 24 hours (so the foam is set and has stopped expanding).
Now, remember that green line in the image above? You can leave that as is, or file it down. I left it as is and it causes no ill effects. A little balancing game is required if I want to "dock" it in portrait mode, but landscape mode is fine (abet unable to charge in this fashion).
It does work though
Higher resolution photos:
http://i.imgur.com/zhrPgOo.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/vpAxPxt.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/ooaI9w3.jpg

Nokia DT-910 Mod to work with thick cases (Ballistic Sg, tough cases etc)

After receiving my Nokia DT-910 charger and realising it would charge fine without a case, but wouldn't with a case, I was very annoyed. I always use a case, so want to charge it with one on. Well, this is XDA, and we make things work here, so this is a mod to get the charger to work with a case.
Heres how to get your phone to charge with a case on it.
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[/URL][/IMG]
The problem is that the charging coil in the stand itself is too low, and when a case is on, the phone is not aligned to the coil inside.
You will need to open the base and front of the charger using a screwdriver/case opener etc. to pry the sides open. You will now need to undo two screws that hole the front cover on that the phone stands against.
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Once undone, pull the cover off, it will take a fair bit of force to do.
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Once inside, CAREFULLY pry the coil off the back of the charger (its stuck on with adhesive film) .. I accidentally cracked the ceramic backing of the coil, but it didn't break the charging circuit luckily and still works.
[/URL][/IMG]
Once the coil is off, chop some of the plastic that sits above the coil off.
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With the extra unnecessary plastic gone, you can move the coil up higher. There will be enough length on the cables, obviously don't stretch them too far or they will break.
I super glued the coil in place as the adhesive was a one use only type, let it dry, then put the whole thing back together.
[/URL][/IMG]
Now i can charge my nexus 5 with a case on this charger
The really interesting part is that I have an energizer charging mat as well, and the nokia charger is far stronger than this. The Nokia will charge with thicker cases now. I can charge my nexus with this tough case, which is pretty thick.
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I am also able to charge my nexus 4 with the thickest case i have, the Ballistic Sg, which i think is absolutely amazing, as none of my thicker cases charge on the energizer.
[/URL][/IMG]
In case you don't know just how thick this case really is, here it is against my spigen ultra hybrid for the nexus 5.
[/URL][/IMG]
So for anyone that wants a thick case and wireless charging, this mod and charger are very much your friend
Hope i helped someone with this mod
Enjoy!
LOL, did exactly the same myself yesterday, including cracking the ceramic, saved me posting it
Only amend I would make to your how to is undo all for screws in the base so the whole backrest detachs from the base and it is then quite easy to split the two halves to get to the coil.
b1g1an said:
LOL, did exactly the same myself yesterday, including cracking the ceramic, saved me posting it
Only amend I would make to your how to is undo all for screws in the base so the whole backrest detachs from the base and it is then quite easy to split the two halves to get to the coil.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thats a good idea great minds think alike i guess
I'm fairly sure mines not getting as hot now
mod failed
hi there
thanks for the detailed instructions, just what I needed to use my lumia 1520 with the same black/blue type cover you use.
used great caution not to tear the wires and even managed to get the ceramic charging plate off without breaking it. relocated the plate as far up as wires would allow, however now it wouldn't charge at all although a computer guy I'm not an electronics engineer so I'm at a loss
as to what to check before tossing the thing. any ideas welcome!
cheers,
bikernzrh

N7 Repair - what electronics are IN the bezel?

So.... I had a VERY tough week at work and was exhausted, stumbling getting out of my car... and dropped my Nexus 7 (LTE!!!)... Screen was still fully visible but non-responsive and glass extremely shattered over the entire surface.
Like an IDIOT, I believed some of the tips and only ordered the glass/digitizer and not the LCD. Well there's $50 down the tube as you CANNOT separate them without destroying the LCD (do not believe anyone who says otherwise)..
So.... Hairdryer would not soften the glue at all so I had to buy a heat gun. On the lowest setting (for safety) it barely softened the glue and required a LOT of persuasion to get the glass loose. The LCD was (as pointed out by those who have actually done this) destroyed in the process... OK, now $100 for the full glass/LCD combo.
However, I have ONE huge concern. During the process, the bezel on the top got overheated and the plastic is damaged. The bezel still snaps securely to the back. However, I noticed there is a small circuit board *inside* the bezel with three metal contacts. What is that? Is it possible that's damaged? The plastic around it shows definite signs of heat damage. Since you CANNOT order a replacement bezel for a N7 2013, and since this is an LTE device, I'm pretty committed to fixing it still. But I'm nervous about ordering parts with the damaged bezel if there are irreplaceable electronics that have been damaged inside the bezel...
So... my question: What is that circuit board that is molded inside the bezel with the metal contacts? What are the odds it was destroyed?
(Posting photos in a few from the phone)
Here are the pictures.
In one side you can see the contacts. The other side the circuit board in question is visible in a small opening.
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EDIT: I looked at the part from iFixit, and the bezel is quite different on the LTE model from the Wifi model. It appears that this is the wifi antenna ... the bottom of my bezel has another similar one which is probably part of the LTE antenna. ... so the question is, what are the chances the heating damaged the wifi antenna... not sure what I think about a 4G only tablet...
Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk
UPDATE
Okay... I figured out the wifi antenna (and LTE 4g antenna at bottom?) are actually stickers... it appears they're not damaged as best I can tell. Hope so. The bezel is warped noticeably at one end, but it still snaps into the back side of the case just fine, and the circuit bords fit. So hopefully... *crosses fingers*... it is still repairable.
Honestly, at this point though, I wish more people who had actually DONE the repair would have suggested that it is NOT something to be done by end users. Reassurances that it's "easy if you follow the directions" are highly misguided. At this point I would have paid ASUS for a repair and come out ahead, once you count the resale value of a device that now has a visibly damaged bezel if I even get it working again. I've never had a problem repairing devices in the past, but this one is not as easy as so many "guides" make it sound.
I should have realized sooner that most of those who said it is easy are also in the business of selling glass/digitizers (USELESS!!!) and LCD/Glass/Digitizer combos.
quite similar experience to what i had trying to repair my old n7 glass, only did i order the glass/lcd combo from the beginning. cracked it while trying to fit it in the warped bezel tho.
Yeah, breaking glass due to the warped bezel is what worries me. Unfortunately the LTE bezel appears to be different than the WiFi, so buying a cheaper one and swapping the bezel doesn't appear to be an option either.
Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk

[Review] Oneplus Original Flip Cover

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Oneplus ONE Original Flip Cover
First Class Bicast Leather and Smooth Velvet
The exterior consists of a shock absorbent plastic layered with resistant Bicast leather, while the interior is made of soft velvet for the backside of the One to have a comfortable place to rest on. The front side will flip up effortlessly, and will fall back carefully on your One with a discrete “tap”. The attention to detail is once again manifested through the OnePlus logo carved on the bottom-right side of the front.
Automatic Unlock and Other Features
Your One will automatically unlock* as soon as you flip open the front side, for a smoother and better user experience. The volume button will be reached as easily through the flip cover as without. The same goes for the lock button. As the backside has an opening for the camera and the flash, and the front side will leave the loudspeakers unblocked, you can take beautiful images and talk to your friends while not worrying about your One.
*Requires CyanogenMod 11 version XNPH22R or higher
Additional Information
Dimensions 176.3 × 88 × 22 mm
Weight 157g
The OnePlus flip cover is specifically designed for the One, so you can rest assured that your One will be perfectly shielded against everything that a phone can be subjected to – at least almost.
Source Oneplus.net​
I am quite satisfied with this flip cover. Very good workmanship, fit perfectly into the OPO and very stylish
It is available in various colors to suit every taste​
​
Nice review!
One question: does this flip cover affect two hand use in any way?
LucaFraga said:
Nice review!
One question: does this flip cover affect two hand use in any way?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No
I found the flip cover very uncomfortable to use, especially the corners. Shouldve used softer material.
Returned it.
Miz_Buzzer said:
I found the flip cover very uncomfortable to use, especially the corners. Shouldve used softer material.
Returned it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think if they used softer materials would degrade faster...
I really like the flip case for my OPO and it's the case I use every day.
My only complaint is that the magnet seems to be too strong and will sometimes turn off the screen when the cases is fully opened. I tried lining the inside of the back of the case with duct tape to add a tiny bit of a gap between the phone and the case and it seemed to help a little bit but it still happens.
scott47 said:
I really like the flip case for my OPO and it's the case I use every day.
My only complaint is that the magnet seems to be too strong and will sometimes turn off the screen when the cases is fully opened. I tried lining the inside of the back of the case with duct tape to add a tiny bit of a gap between the phone and the case and it seemed to help a little bit but it still happens.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It never happened to me
The screen only turn of when I fully close the case

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