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For amateur astronomy use, I needed to be able to bring down my A43's LCD brightness to a very low level. After a bit of experimenting, here is a very simple app that lets you have a darker screen than the OS normally allows:
http://code.google.com/p/superdim
It requires root.
This is my first independent Android app, so no doubt I screwed up in some way.
arpruss said:
For amateur astronomy use, I needed to be able to bring down my A43's LCD brightness to a very low level. After a bit of experimenting, here is a very simple app that lets you have a darker screen than the OS normally allows:
http://www.mediafire.com/?zwsg7aeqtcqogpm
It requires root.
This is my first independent Android app, so no doubt I screwed up in some way.
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Nice, if you need it, make it. Personally, I find using Night Mode in Chainfire better than simply turning down brightness. It turns the brightness down, and renders everything in red, or whatever color you choose, but red is the correct choice to retain night sensitivity.
Obviously, I probably wouldn't watch a movie like that, but it's great for when I'm bow-fishing by full moon and want to change songs or something without wrecking my night vision.
For astronomy purposes, ChainFire3D's night mode won't be enough. At the lowest normal system backlight setting, if one is fully dark adapted under a dark sky, the amount of light leaking through the black pixels will be enormous--the screen will look grey rather than black (well, I haven't tried it, but I have experience with other devices). What one needs to do for serious night vision protection is to BOTH turn the view to red with ChainFire3D AND dim the backlight to a very low level with this app. And I am not even sure this will be fully satisfactory, because on my A43 the amount of light leakage is really big.
By the way, I posted a new version and source, and renamed the project to SuperDim. I also added a toggle for the power LED, since they made it green rather than red.
arpruss said:
For astronomy purposes, ChainFire3D's night mode won't be enough. At the lowest normal system backlight setting, if one is fully dark adapted under a dark sky, the amount of light leaking through the black pixels will be enormous--the screen will look grey rather than black (well, I haven't tried it, but I have experience with other devices). What one needs to do for serious night vision protection is to BOTH turn the view to red with ChainFire3D AND dim the backlight to a very low level with this app. And I am not even sure this will be fully satisfactory, because on my A43 the amount of light leakage is really big.
By the way, I posted a new version and source, and renamed the project to SuperDim. I also added a toggle for the power LED, since they made it green rather than red.
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Hmm. That's good to know for the A43. I'd like to know what you think of the night mode in chainfire, just because there aren't many other people who worry about this topic. I live in St. Louis, a big city, so you probably have less ambient light, but I also wonder if my A101 gets darker than the A43. Even at night, I can turn it down to the point that I really can't read a damn thing.
Great idea with the Power LED. Once again, I don't think light levels drop low enough in St. Louis for it to bother me, but I hadn't even thought of disabling it.
To really be dark adapted, you need to be away from white light for about 45 minutes. (Though I find that after 15 minutes the payoff diminishes.) It's not going to happen outdoors in a big city.
I added profiles (three night, two day), and integrated SuperDim with ChainFire3D, so if you have ChainFire3D installed, you can control its night mode directly from SuperDim, and even include its night mode setting in a profile.
For my own use, I wanted a red screen dim profile for astronomy, a green screen dim profile for reading books in the dark, a dim full color profile for other night use, a bright green profile sometimes for reading books in the day, and a full color bright profile. But you can save whatever you want in the five profile slots.
I've been using figuring out the light control stuff for SuperDim as an opportunity for learning how to program for Android in preparation for writing (not from scratch--I got a donation of the AstroTools source code under the GPL to start with, and I may port some code from open2sky and AstroInfo for PalmOS) a high-end astronomy app. (I'm an experienced PalmOS developer, but quite new to Android.) I'm actually quite pleased. I was dreading java (I've usually developed in C), but I am finding Android development, especially with Eclipse, surprisingly pleasant.
arpruss said:
To really be dark adapted, you need to be away from white light for about 45 minutes. (Though I find that after 15 minutes the payoff diminishes.) It's not going to happen outdoors in a big city.
I added profiles (three night, two day), and integrated SuperDim with ChainFire3D, so if you have ChainFire3D installed, you can control its night mode directly from SuperDim, and even include its night mode setting in a profile.
For my own use, I wanted a red screen dim profile for astronomy, a green screen dim profile for reading books in the dark, a dim full color profile for other night use, a bright green profile sometimes for reading books in the day, and a full color bright profile. But you can save whatever you want in the five profile slots.
I've been using figuring out the light control stuff for SuperDim as an opportunity for learning how to program for Android in preparation for writing (not from scratch--I got a donation of the AstroTools source code under the GPL to start with, and I may port some code from open2sky and AstroInfo for PalmOS) a high-end astronomy app. (I'm an experienced PalmOS developer, but quite new to Android.) I'm actually quite pleased. I was dreading java (I've usually developed in C), but I am finding Android development, especially with Eclipse, surprisingly pleasant.
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Yeah, my point exactly. I'm about 15 miles away from the city when out on the river, but that's not really far enough to get out of the city's light pollution.
Great work integrating with Chainfire. I'll give it a try next time I'm out. It should be nice having everything in one place.
I'll be looking forward to the astronomy app. It's been a looong time since I've worked on one, but I still have the DOS version of CyberSky I helped develop, so I guess I still have a fondness for them.
I posted 0.23, fixing a bug that made day2 = day1.
And I posted 0.30, adding support for toggling keyboard and button backlight on devices that have them.
I use screen filter to make my screen dimmer..
its in the market..
1. As far as I can tell, Screen Filter doesn't adjust the backlight--it only lowers the LCD pixel intensity. As a result, even if you turn Screen Filter to something really low like 2%, if you take your device to a dark area, you'll see a grey glow coming from the screen, because the backlight leaks through the black pixels.
To remedy the grey glow issue, you need to turn the backlight down, but the OS only lets you turn it so far down (10/255 on my A43; some phones only allow 20/255) without directly writing to /sys/class/leds/lcd-backlight/brightness (which needs root, and is what SuperDim does).
I also suspect that in a dark area, with brightness set to a low value, lowering backlight will produce a more visually attractive image than Screen Filter, because lowering the backlight will make a black background be fairly black.
That's all for backlit LCD screens. OLED screens are a completely different kettle of fish, and SuperDim won't help you much there (though it'll still let you set themes controlling LEDs and ChainFire3D nightmode).
2. I generalized the code a little so it should let you control whatever LEDs your device has, as long as they have a /sys/class/leds/*/brightness interface.
3. By the way, ChainFire3D's nightmode is a touch imperfect: if you set it to red, I think it just turns off the green and blue channels. That means that green and blue visual elements cease to be visible. A somewhat better nightmode would convert the image from RGB to grayscale, and then turn off the green and blue channels. I don't know how easy to implement that would be--I don't know enough about GL blending (I tried to google but couldn't find an answer simple enough for me to understand).
arpruss said:
1. As far as I can tell, Screen Filter doesn't adjust the backlight--it only lowers the LCD pixel intensity. As a result, even if you turn Screen Filter to something really low like 2%, if you take your device to a dark area, you'll see a grey glow coming from the screen, because the backlight leaks through the black pixels.
To remedy the grey glow issue, you need to turn the backlight down, but the OS only lets you turn it so far down (10/255 on my A43; some phones only allow 20/255) without directly writing to /sys/class/leds/lcd-backlight/brightness (which needs root, and is what SuperDim does).
I also suspect that in a dark area, with brightness set to a low value, lowering backlight will produce a more visually attractive image than Screen Filter, because lowering the backlight will make a black background be fairly black.
That's all for backlit LCD screens. OLED screens are a completely different kettle of fish, and SuperDim won't help you much there (though it'll still let you set themes controlling LEDs and ChainFire3D nightmode).
2. I generalized the code a little so it should let you control whatever LEDs your device has, as long as they have a /sys/class/leds/*/brightness interface.
3. By the way, ChainFire3D's nightmode is a touch imperfect: if you set it to red, I think it just turns off the green and blue channels. That means that green and blue visual elements cease to be visible. A somewhat better nightmode would convert the image from RGB to grayscale, and then turn off the green and blue channels. I don't know how easy to implement that would be--I don't know enough about GL blending (I tried to google but couldn't find an answer simple enough for me to understand).
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I assumed it did convert to greyscale first before tinting, but you may be right. I'll have to think how to test that.
msticninja said:
I assumed it did convert to greyscale first before tinting, but you may be right. I'll have to think how to test that.
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Quick test: If you set CF3D to blue, anything that's pure yellow goes black. For example, if you go to SuperDim, the left half of the brightness adjustment bar is yellow and disappears completely.
Another test: go with the browser to http://www.w3schools.com/html/html_colors.asp in red mode. Notice that the blue 0000FF and green 00FF00 samples can't be distinguished from 000000 black, while the red FF0000 can't be distinguished from white FFFFFF.
arpruss said:
Quick test: If you set CF3D to blue, anything that's pure yellow goes black. For example, if you go to SuperDim, the left half of the brightness adjustment bar is yellow and disappears completely.
Another test: go with the browser to http://www.w3schools.com/html/html_colors.asp in red mode. Notice that the blue 0000FF and green 00FF00 samples can't be distinguished from 000000 black, while the red FF0000 can't be distinguished from white FFFFFF.
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Seems like pretty clear results to me. I wonder if converting to greyscale first would even be feasible, from a coding, and from a processor cycle standpoint. It would have to use extra power, but I wonder how much. It doesn't really matter for me, everything I need to do is doable, but interesting nonetheless.
msticninja said:
Seems like pretty clear results to me. I wonder if converting to greyscale first would even be feasible, from a coding, and from a processor cycle standpoint. It would have to use extra power, but I wonder how much. It doesn't really matter for me, everything I need to do is doable, but interesting nonetheless.
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There may be a way of hardware accelerating this.
Well, after 5 months of looking out for the best values, I've experimented and all and found out these to be the best. Even at lowest brightness, the screen is crisp and clear just like it's supposed to be.
People who have the Purple Screen issue, I highly recommend you use these values.
Requirements -
1. Franco Kernel Updater (TKT wouldn't give that much brightness/crispyness to the screen)
2. ICS Gradient Fix (Check Signature)
3. Franco Kernel
First up, flash Franco's latest kernel.
Secondly, make sure you don't have any 2 or more applications which have Color Control options (Like, Franco Kernel Updater and TKT - Remove TKT and stay with Franco). If you do have 2 or more installed, please set all values to default on all applications including Franco's. (In TKT, click on menu and select reset preferences and reboot).
Third, fire up Franco Kernel Updater and get to the CC options and set these :
Color Multipliers -
Red - 280
Green - 292
Blue - 350
Gamma -
Red - 4
Green - 0
Blue - 9
Disable Contrast Adaptive Brightness - Yes (Tick)
Contrast Control : -24
OMAP Gamma - 1.2
These values work BEST with MoDaCo's JB Build. Tested on Jr1, Jr.1.1, Jr2.
Please note : This is simply a band aid, not a total fix. The purple screen and grain issue is probably a hardware issue. This settings are extremely crisp on my device. You need to get adapted to them.
Thanks to -
1. Franco for his amazing kernel and application.
2. Morfic for introducing contrast control into the kernel world and of course for his kindness. (You're the sweetest developer I've talked to).
Best of luck with these settings guys!
Please, don't forget to click "Thanks"!
It made everything look over-saturated for me.. plus, is it safe to jack up the settings like this?
It did improve the grainy screen on low brightness problem, though.
Well, i think the best values i've EVER Seen.
Oh dear, so f****ng awesome.
via Google Galaxy Nexus
Made my eyes hurt.. Too cold.. I'm trying to get my screen as close to 6500k as possible.
Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2
Thank you for this! By far the best optimization of colors I've ever seen. Maybe colors are a bit over-saturated but thats how Super AMOLED should produce.
Doesn't lacking the values up that high create burn in???
Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using xda premium
craigbailey1986 said:
Doesn't lacking the values up that high create burn in???
Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using xda premium
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Try reducing every multiplier value by 40. 280 to 240, 292 to 252 and 300 to 260.
This can never be an all-in-one "fix" because of the way screen technology works. Everyone's screen will have different degrees of the problem itself (purple tint & grain), on top of that they will all have a slightly different color temperature, contrast level, saturation etc. By providing the values that worked for you, you're just going to have a thread where half the people think it looks great, half think it looks awful, and everyone thinks everyone else is crazy.
A better idea might be to describe the steps you took to arrive at your own numbers, things you looked for, how you tweaked them to get to the best values.
Look Excellent to me - Screen absolutely Pops, so vivid and the gradient issues are not visible.
Thanks so much!
Those high values are gonna kill your screen
OP settings work well for me (similar to my 200 215 280, -2 0 10, -23, CAB off), but OMAP always makes things worse IMO. With OMAP at 1.2 I instantly see banding again where with it off the gradients are smooth. OP settings with OMAP 1.0 are excellent however, reducing the magenta and yellowing I was seeing with my others. I am worried about the burn-in though..
What's this about burn in? Do these settings cause it?
I sort-of mispoke. Burn-in is possible, but high multipliers are more worried to wear out those pixels/degrade them faster.
Edit: I'm going for more of a "Trinity Blue" sort of solution now: 215 235 280, -2 0 15, -24, CAD off, OMAP unset. Still trying to find that balance that gets rid of the magenta/yellow at all points.
Okay guys try out 180,192 and 250 as the color multipliers. No burn issues then. I'm on it right now. Its great!
I'm using Trinity kernel, TKT, and Display Tester Pro for calibration. The gamma test shows that my particular settings should be red=2, green=3, blue=2. The color gamma settings are not relative to one another and are not "mixed together" for adjusting color. Each one is a separate adjustment for that color's correct level of brightness for midtones, relative to darkest and lightest levels. Together, the three settings add up to correct gray brightness levels, not to correct gray colorlessness.
If you look at a chart containing only black, 50% gray, and white, the color multipliers should be adjusted to remove any trace of color tint from the gray. The easiest way to do it is set the weakest color to 200 and reduce the other two colors until the gray has no color tint at all. The properly set color gamma settings, on the other hand, should make the 50% gray have the correct lightness level.
If you have yellow tint, there's not enough blue. Magenta tint means not enough green. Cyan tint, not enough red.
The color multipliers, unlike the gamma settings, are relative to one another. Once you have them set correctly relative to one another, moving them all up or all down together pnly changes the overall brightness of the display. The wrong overall brightness level will remove detail from either the black end or the white end. Too much brightness is also bad for the screen, not to mention battery drain.
So anyway I'll shut up now and I hope everyone gets their screens looking perfect.
gsm gnex / cm9 / trinity / 1420 MHz
for whatever reason trinity seems to be giving me better screen color, but im sure I could do the same with franco, anyways, my gamma settings are untouched, I found that modifying the color to these values makes the purple tint go away for me:
Red:135
Green:135
Blue:190
Trinity Contrast -15 to -25
Have you tried adjusting it for 18% gray? I can nail it pretty close with 180,150,190 and 8,0,8 but gamma is a complete ***** on this display...
strumcat said:
I'm using Trinity kernel, TKT, and Display Tester Pro for calibration. The gamma test shows that my particular settings should be red=2, green=3, blue=2. The color gamma settings are not relative to one another and are not "mixed together" for adjusting color. Each one is a separate adjustment for that color's correct level of brightness for midtones, relative to darkest and lightest levels. Together, the three settings add up to correct gray brightness levels, not to correct gray colorlessness.
If you look at a chart containing only black, 50% gray, and white, the color multipliers should be adjusted to remove any trace of color tint from the gray. The easiest way to do it is set the weakest color to 200 and reduce the other two colors until the gray has no color tint at all. The properly set color gamma settings, on the other hand, should make the 50% gray have the correct lightness level.
If you have yellow tint, there's not enough blue. Magenta tint means not enough green. Cyan tint, not enough red.
The color multipliers, unlike the gamma settings, are relative to one another. Once you have them set correctly relative to one another, moving them all up or all down together pnly changes the overall brightness of the display. The wrong overall brightness level will remove detail from either the black end or the white end. Too much brightness is also bad for the screen, not to mention battery drain.
So anyway I'll shut up now and I hope everyone gets their screens looking perfect.
gsm gnex / cm9 / trinity / 1420 MHz
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arzbhatia said:
Okay guys try out 180,192 and 250 as the color multipliers. No burn issues then. I'm on it right now. Its great!
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It's been discussed few times already - going above 200 can lead to screen burn in. On SAMOLED screens blue color wear out first and peeps really shouldn't touch this setting. Better set lower red/green values. Screen will look a bit darker so don't cranck up contrast too much, -10 should be good enough.
herzzreh said:
Made my eyes hurt.. Too cold.. I'm trying to get my screen as close to 6500k as possible.
Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2
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look at the graphs.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=29037317&postcount=1
herzzreh said:
Have you tried adjusting it for 18% gray? I can nail it pretty close with 180,150,190 and 8,0,8 but gamma is a complete ***** on this display...
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You can see where your gamma should by by installing the free version of Display Tester from the Play Store. Go to Color, Gamma, and slide the gray screen to the left to see the red page. Find the vertical bar that most closely matches the red bacground. The number on that bar is where your gamma should be set for that color. Mine is spot on at 2.3. Then slide to green page and do the same. Then the blue page. My green gamma reading is 2.8, meaning it isn't quite as bright as the red or blue, so I have to turn it up a hair. My blue is good at 2.3. The adjustment sliders in TKT only give me whole-number choices, so I get as close as possible with 2, 3, 2. I'm just guessing there, since TKT doesn't have normal gamma increments. Anyway good luck taming your gamma.
galaxy nexus (gsm) / cm9 / trinity @ 1.4GHz
Hi all. I've seen this feature in the first note and now I see it again.
Adjusting tone save the energy saver based on image analysis
Is this option really make a difference?
h t t p://imageshack.us/f/202/20130221221021.png
No 10 posts so sorry for link
I always have it set to off. I had it on but never noticed any difference. My guess is that if you are looking at a very colorful image, prolly the screen will lighten more up or over-saturate the colors to look nicer. Maybe even the brightness who knows.
According to a cnet article:
" There's another adjustment on the Note 2 to that significantly affects picture quality. Samsung applied the cryptic moniker "Auto adjust screen tone" (AAST) to a check box at the bottom of the Display menu. Uncheck it and the phone's full light output capabilities are unshackled, nearly doubling its contrast ratio and improving its ability to compete with ambient light. Turning off AAST also improves color accuracy slightly. "
Seems like changes the colour tone of brighter colours to reduce their brightness.
I keep it on since I like milder screens.
If you prefer low brightness and want to save power , keep it on.
If you find yourself using high brightness often, turn it off.
Sent from my GT-N7100
HypoDest said:
According to a cnet article:
" There's another adjustment on the Note 2 to that significantly affects picture quality. Samsung applied the cryptic moniker "Auto adjust screen tone" (AAST) to a check box at the bottom of the Display menu. Uncheck it and the phone's full light output capabilities are unshackled, nearly doubling its contrast ratio and improving its ability to compete with ambient light. Turning off AAST also improves color accuracy slightly. "
Seems like changes the colour tone of brighter colours to reduce their brightness.
I keep it on since I like milder screens.
If you prefer low brightness and want to save power , keep it on.
If you find yourself using high brightness often, turn it off.
Sent from my GT-N7100
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Click to collapse
Thanks you for info.
hello
Is it the software or the way in which the three primary colors red, green and blue high or low on the screen.
Android is there a way to adjust the screen colors
marlikcoc said:
hello
Is it the software or the way in which the three primary colors red, green and blue high or low on the screen.
Android is there a way to adjust the screen colors
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I don't think so... Kindle had issues and never got a utility to adjust it.
I checked my colors against my TV which is calibrated. Factory ROM gives a darn good picture, for such a device. Some overly reds but with proper brightness they are less noticeable. I don't know what setting you have the display on, I set mine for movie and leave it there. Dynamic and Standard is not good for Movies and Pictures. Though if you play games Dynamic may help. Standard is basic for reading and browsing.
Hope that helps
I know there are some programs that can alter display color temperature depending on time of day and global user position on Earth.
What I'm looking for is a program that can do the same based on light sensor data, I mean that outside in the sun, display have a high color temp, let's say 6500-7200 C and when I get into a dark room the display will not only decrease brightness like it always does but also change color temp to for example 3400 C. Blue light filtering like that is nice not only late at night before sleep but also while spending a lot of time indoors even during day.
So my question is - did anyone ever seen an app that can do that?
Interesting idea. I haven't heard of an app that can do this, but I'm sure with some Googling you'd be able to find out for sure.
I had a quick Google myself and it turns out that some high-end Samsung phones do this by default. Their light sensors detect Red, Blue and Green and change the screens colour to reflect your surroundings. Its called Adapt Display.
I'm not sure the light sensor on all smartphones can detect colour range tho, I think most are only capable of detecting luminance. If that's the case I'm sure someone could create an app that reads colour data from the camera when the light changes and could apply that to the screen hue to more accurately reflect the colour temperature of your environment, but I doubt it would be that accurate...
Yes, they can adapt but you can't make them change color with light intensity. This is actually what inspired me to look for better functionality