Hello
I have a shield tv 2015 with nvidia experience 8.1 (android 9) - last October 2, I upgraded to 8.0.1, installed and when it was to restart, turned off and did not turn on.
Turns on the 2 sec green light and turns it off and the disc works (it seems to be in standby).
I opened a ticket (on nvidia) but it is being useless because the procedures that give me do not work.
I found that underneath is a snap-in cover. so i turned off the hard drive it always turns on the green light but i can't get into fastboot / recovery mode.
At the moment when I connect the usb cable to the pc I have an APX device. does anyone know anything about APX?
Thanks help me please i´m a nood
Your only bet is to get help from nvidia costumer support since it's not a pro version.
Apx mode = your device is bricked.
Mine is the 500GB version I suppose is the PRO version.
I've been reading here in the forum ... in the PRO version the
All software is on the hard drive. So I was trying to create the hard drive with a 500GB disk but to no avail.
parfuar said:
Mine is the 500GB version I suppose is the PRO version.
I've been reading here in the forum ... in the PRO version the
All software is on the hard drive. So I was trying to create the hard drive with a 500GB disk but to no avail.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You can try what has been done in this thread https://forum.xda-developers.com/shield-tv/general/bricked-shield-tv-pro-2015-version-t3841024
Or something like this https://forum.xda-developers.com/shield-tv/general/guide-migrate-to-ssd-hdd-size-satv-pro-t3440195
Hi,
One question.
My original hard drive
Info:
[email protected]:/home/ubuntu# hdparm -i /dev/sda
Model=ST500LM000-1EJ162, FwRev=SM16, SerialNo=W763XDYH
Config={ HardSect NotMFM HdSw>15uSec Fixed DTR>10Mbs RotSpdTol>.5% }
RawCHS=16383/16/63, TrkSize=0, SectSize=0, ECCbytes=4
BuffType=unknown, BuffSize=unknown, MaxMultSect=16, MultSect=off
CurCHS=16383/16/63, CurSects=16514064, LBA=yes, LBAsects=976773168
IORDY=on/off, tPIO={min:120,w/IORDY:120}, tDMA={min:120,rec:120}
PIO modes: pio0 pio1 pio2 pio3 pio4
DMA modes: mdma0 mdma1 mdma2
UDMA modes: udma0 udma1 udma2 udma3 udma4 udma5 *udma6
AdvancedPM=yes: unknown setting WriteCache=enabled
Drive conforms to: Reserved: ATA/ATAPI-4,5,6,7
* signifies the current active mode
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
fdisk -l
Disk /dev/sda: 465.8 GiB, 500107862016 bytes, 976773168 sectors
Units: sectors of 1 * 512 = 512 bytes
Sector size (logical/physical): 512 bytes / 4096 bytes
I/O size (minimum/optimal): 4096 bytes / 4096 bytes
Disklabel type: dos
Disk identifier: 0xb22c3a15
my new hard drive
info:
[email protected]:/home/ubuntu# hdparm -i /dev/sda
Model=HGST HTS545050A7E380, FwRev=GG2OACD0, SerialNo=TE85113R0Y5TPK
Config={ HardSect NotMFM HdSw>15uSec Fixed DTR>10Mbs }
RawCHS=16383/16/63, TrkSize=0, SectSize=0, ECCbytes=4
BuffType=DualPortCache, BuffSize=8192kB, MaxMultSect=16, MultSect=16
CurCHS=16383/16/63, CurSects=16514064, LBA=yes, LBAsects=976773168
IORDY=on/off, tPIO={min:120,w/IORDY:120}, tDMA={min:120,rec:120}
PIO modes: pio0 pio1 pio2 pio3 pio4
DMA modes: mdma0 mdma1 mdma2
UDMA modes: udma0 udma1 udma2 udma3 udma4 udma5 *udma6
AdvancedPM=yes: mode=0x01 (1) WriteCache=enabled
Drive conforms to: unknown: ATA/ATAPI-2,3,4,5,6,7
* signifies the current active mode
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
--->> fdisk -l
Disk /dev/sda: 465,8 GiB, 500107862016 bytes, 976773168 sectors
Units: sectors of 1 * 512 = 512 bytes
Sector size (logical/physical): 512 bytes / 4096 bytes
I/O size (minimum/optimal): 4096 bytes / 4096 bytes
Disklabel type: dos
Disk identifier: 0x4ca778fd
Hard drives are the same, I should with the tutorial, be able to get the shield to work without major problems.
what is wrong?
commands used:
dd if=start.bin of=/dev/sdX bs=4M
dd if=end_976574630.bin of=/dev/sdX seek=976574630
with these files:
https://forum.xda-developers.com/sho...2&postcount=23
My shield(2015 pro) was also bricked by the update reboot loop at nvidia logo and factory reset did not help and fastboot couldn't flash anything, so used this opportunity however to put a ssd in.
Used beginning disk image from here:
https://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=67426622&postcount=23
Just booted it up and its gotten past nvidia logo atleast so far
First time it bricked was updating to 8.0, after recovery it was able to get the updates up to 8.0, when i did the 8.0.1 update i also got the same error as those above where turns on then off and does not even wake the display.
HellToupee_nz said:
My shield(2015 pro) was also bricked by the update reboot loop at nvidia logo and factory reset did not help and fastboot couldn't flash anything, so used this opportunity however to put a ssd in.
Used beginning disk image from here:
https://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=67426622&postcount=23
Just booted it up and its gotten past nvidia logo atleast so far
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It worked?
what version of android is it?
on mine it didn't work. only worked with the first part (firstpart.bin which is like this) and with the 5kb file that speak at the end of this thread.
parfuar said:
It worked?
what version of android is it?
on mine it didn't work. only worked with the first part (firstpart.bin which is like this) and with the 5kb file that speak at the end of this thread.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
In my case, I have the fastboot. but this is difficult because we don't have active developer mode.
Yes, i had done a factory reset also, u can get stuck at the spinning android logo forever without that i find. For the end part of the disk i used my own from my disks image, i've just done it all again and updated back to 7.2.3 stopped there and copied my widevine key off my orginal image so got L1 support and going to make backup of its current state.
parfuar You don't use "sdX" you change the "X" to the letter your drive is from fdisk -l , looks like you need to use "sda", after after you write the two bin files reboot directly into bootloader and select boot recovery kernel which will bring up t wrp recovery and you need to perform a factory reset wipe then reboot and Android should boot up and you will have Nvidia experience 3.3 and you have to do a couple updates to get up to 8.0 just make sure you turn off automatic updates cuz mine automatically updated to 8.0.1 and crashed my hard drive a second time. I used my original hard drive
also posting here that my 2015 500gb gets bricked with 8.0.1. hdd swapped out for crucial mx500. i think the guy here said it happened on his stock 500 sshd?
OK... This is how I got it to work.
Using "DD for Windows"... since I don't have a Linux PC (tested working perfectly on Windows 10 x64)
Download link:
http://www.chrysocome.net/downloads/dd-0.6beta3.zip
Unzip the "dd.exe" file and copy it to:
%USERPROFILE%\AppData\Local\Microsoft\WindowsApps
This gives you the ability to use DD system wide.
Use the beginning disk image from here:
https://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=67426622&postcount=23
Connect your drive. I highly suggest using a Desktop PC because it is much faster than a USB to Sata cable.
If you don't have any open Sata slots, just disconnect your CD-rom drive temporarily and use the connectors.
Now:
1) Put the "start.bin" file in the root directory of drive C (example C:\start.bin)
2) Open a command prompt as Administrator and change directory to C: (command: cd C:\ )
3) Type command dd --list to determine the correct disk you want to write to.
4) Use command dd if=start.bin of=\\?\Device\HarddiskX\Partition0 --progress
whereas X is the drive number you determined earlier with the dd --list command
(replace the X with the drive number you want to write to)
5) Watch the write progress and stop the process at about 6GB (around byte 6,500,000,000)
(you can actually see the write counter running)
There is no need to write the "end file". Shut down the PC once finished and remove the drive.
6) Install the drive back into your Shield Pro and start. The green NVIDIA logo should show up soon.
Wait for about 10 minutes and if nothing happens unplug the Shield and do a restart.
Now wait patiently.... it will eventually boot past the green logo and the Android colors.
Now let your Shield self-update to whatever version you desire. It starts with version 3.0
That's it! You just successfully de-bricked your Shield Pro
Enjoy!
Related
I just bricked my a696 in the process of doing the official asus update and have been trying to unbrick it using the information in this forum (particularly here and here) without any luck. I was wondering if anyone could help me with this problem. this is what I have figured out and done from my reading:
1. I have downloaded the image file for my unit - A696_dump_wm6_2_eng.rar
2. I have also downloaded USBLoader.exe
when I connect my pda, I can get it into the mode where it accepts usb input (POWER + ENTER + RESET). However when I try to run usbloader I get a bunch of errors that seem to suggest that my computer can't open a connection to the usb port.
------------------------------------
C:\usbloader nk.nb0
#####################################################################
# USB image transfer tool for Intel PXA27X USB Development Board #
# Version: 1220'04 Author: O.C #
#####################################################################
try to open \\.\wceusbsh001
try to open \\.\wceusbsh002
try to open \\.\wceusbsh003
try to open \\.\wceusbsh004
try to open \\.\wceusbsh005
USB pipe opening error
------------------------------------
I am using vista business, and am running the command prompt in administrator mode. I have also tried doing the same procedure on a windows xp machine and it has given me the same error. When I connect my pda, windows does detect the connection and loads a usb device driver. Active Sync does not start. I feel like I am missing something very basic that I just don't know about. any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks in advance!
Same problem
OK ..I am now up to the same spot. The next step I am going to try is to try to do it from the SD card using this method. I will let you know how I get on.
Anyone else offer any suggestions?
JohnYW
Fixed
I managed to get my ASUS 696 back again, thanks to the info posted on this forum.
Using the NB0 file plus USBloader.exe finally got it to go. It seems the loader only looks at the first 5 USB ports and if you are plugged into anything higher it doesnt find it. I am using a laptop with a docking station and 2 monitors so had numerous USB ports. When I plugged it into one of the two ports on the laptop itself - Voila - it worked and I now have a working ASUS 696 - no longer a brick!
1. Download the A696_dump_wm6_2_eng.rar file plus USBLoader.exe files.
2. Unzip the rar file
3. Run command prompt and navigate to where these files are.
4. Connect USB cable to bricked unit
5. Hold power and Enter and hit reset and hold till unit goes into USBloader mode
6. From the command prompt run the USB tool with the unzip file and sit back and watch. About 2 minutes and it will reboot. Hopefully all well.
To find those files just google them - good luck
Not fixed for me
I only have 3 USB-ports on my Laptop and USBLoader works with none of them.
The PDA installs himselve as:
-Windows CE USB-device
-- ASUS USB Sync
Outside of the USB-Controller tree.
I get the exact same error as influxx described. Is there any other way to get USBLoader check all the USBs or getting the connection going?
My system is WIN-XP SP2.
Half fixed
Well, i managed to establish the usb connection by using a 10-years-old Laptop with only two USB1.1 ports.
Now i get to that point:
C:\PDA>USBLoader.exe nk.nb0
#####################################################################
# USB image transfer tool for Intel PXA27X USB Development Board #
# Version: 1220'04 Author: O.C #
#####################################################################
try to open \\.\wceusbsh001
The file nk.nb0 was opened
Image total Size 61808640 bytes
NB0 image downloading.....
File nk.nb0 total 61808640 byte read
Size of ACK_PACKET = 20 address of buffer=7c91ee18
<PIPE00> R : request 20 bytes -- 20 bytes read
What we read AckType < 55aa > dwRet < 99 >
Size of ACK_PACKET = 20 address of buffer=55aa
The PDA shows 100% ... but thats all...
No restart, nothing (I waited 15min). If i unplug or reset the PDA i get an infinite number of lines like this:
........
<PIPE00> R : request 20 bytes -- 0 bytes read
What we read AckType < 0 > dwRet < 0 >
Size of ACK_PACKET = 20 address of buffer=0
<PIPE00> R : request 20 bytes -- 0 bytes read
What we read AckType < 0 > dwRet < 0 >
Size of ACK_PACKET = 20 address of buffer=0.........
And my PDA acts like before. Is my Rom dead?
EDIT: No it wasn't. The mainboard kept analyzing the Battery as too low and so everything (flashing included) was locked.
Asus 696 bricked
Can anyone please post an .DIO and or other fix to get my Asus A696 back to work? (pref. WM6 engl)
It hangs on the ASUS bootscreen, after an unsuccesfull ROM upgrade...
I can't use usbloader.exe and nk.nb0 file since I have not a USB cable, and I am forced to use a method of recovery that use only the SD card.
CyBear said:
EDIT: No it wasn't. The mainboard kept analyzing the Battery as too low and so everything (flashing included) was locked.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So what did you do to fix it? I am having the exact same problem. (bricked 636N after failed update to WM6)
--EDIT--
Ok my problem was that I dumped a WM6 from another 636N and the bricked one was WM5. After restoring a dutch WM5 image (which worked) I updated to an english ROM that worked.
The one thing tipping me off to find a WM5 dump was that at around 84% when restoring, the counter jumped back to 1%, continued to 14% then jumped to 100%.
Thx for all the wonderful advice on this forum. Now I have not only a working 636N but also the knowledge to restore one if it breaks in the future (I have around 20)
CyBear said:
Well, i managed to establish the usb connection by using a 10-years-old Laptop with only two USB1.1 ports.
Now i get to that point:
C:\PDA>USBLoader.exe nk.nb0
#####################################################################
# USB image transfer tool for Intel PXA27X USB Development Board #
# Version: 1220'04 Author: O.C #
#####################################################################
try to open \\.\wceusbsh001
The file nk.nb0 was opened
Image total Size 61808640 bytes
NB0 image downloading.....
File nk.nb0 total 61808640 byte read
Size of ACK_PACKET = 20 address of buffer=7c91ee18
<PIPE00> R : request 20 bytes -- 20 bytes read
What we read AckType < 55aa > dwRet < 99 >
Size of ACK_PACKET = 20 address of buffer=55aa
The PDA shows 100% ... but thats all...
No restart, nothing (I waited 15min). If i unplug or reset the PDA i get an infinite number of lines like this:
........
<PIPE00> R : request 20 bytes -- 0 bytes read
What we read AckType < 0 > dwRet < 0 >
Size of ACK_PACKET = 20 address of buffer=0
<PIPE00> R : request 20 bytes -- 0 bytes read
What we read AckType < 0 > dwRet < 0 >
Size of ACK_PACKET = 20 address of buffer=0.........
And my PDA acts like before. Is my Rom dead?
EDIT: No it wasn't. The mainboard kept analyzing the Battery as too low and so everything (flashing included) was locked.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have the exact problem, it loads to 100% then gives me these errors. How the hell do i fix this. PLEASE somebody give me some support on this, the battery has been charging for hours so i cant imagine it thinking i dont have enough battery power.
JohnYW said:
1. Download the A696_dump_wm6_2_eng.rar file plus USBLoader.exe files.
2. Unzip the rar file
3. Run command prompt and navigate to where these files are.
4. Connect USB cable to bricked unit
5. Hold power and Enter and hit reset and hold till unit goes into USBloader mode
6. From the command prompt run the USB tool with the unzip file and sit back and watch. About 2 minutes and it will reboot. Hopefully all well.
To find those files just google them - good luck
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have asked this in another thread as well with no response. What/where is this ENTER key??????? I know where the POWER button is and I know where the RESET button is but nothing on the unit or in the manual says ENTER.
same problemmm... which is the enter key ???? reset and power i understand... help me pls
The enter key is the one in the center of the circular directional pad. Press that button and the power button while hitting the reset. Hold these buttons until the USBloader screen comes up. Hope this helps, good luck!
Quick Links
if fastboot mode is not available, try Unbricking Guide
if fastboot mode is available, do RESTOCK
In this thread I would like to consolidate information about eMMC flash memory failures and remedies.
When flash memory fails it becomes inaccessible or unwriteable with errors like the following:
Code:
sending 'bootloader' <3911 KB>...
OKAY [ 0.202s ]
writing 'bootloader'...
FAILED <remote: flash write failure>
or
E:can't mount /cache/recovery/last_install
E:can't open /cache/recovery/last_install
E:failed closing /dev/block/platform/msm_sdcc. 1/by-name/misc (I/O error)
E:failed to mount /cache (Invalid argument)
or
E:Unable to find partition size for '/boot'
E:Unable to find partition size for '/recovery'
E:Unable to find partition size for '/misc'
E:Primary block device '/dev/block/platform/msm_sdcc.1/by-name/userdata' for mount point '/data' is not present!
E:Unable to mount '/data'
E:Unable to recreate /data/media folder.
dmesg...
mmc0: error -110 whilst initialising MMC card
We observe these hardware failure symptoms:
device is totally dead
dead but flashes a few times the white LED next to USB port
dead but with active USB on PC device list
works up to fastboot stage or Google logo
may slowly boot Android sometimes
intermittently Android does not boot or work at all
#1 - eMMC unrelated
#2 - battery fault is most likely
#3 - catastrophic eMMC failure or GPT/bootloader damage, PC registers a new USB\VID_05C6&PID_9008 device, refer to QPST diagnostics below
#4 - partial eMMC failure or OS error, refer to fastboot diagnostics below
#5 - probably eMMC failure, unlocking and TWRP tests are required - post your logs
#6 - unlikely eMMC fault
Fastboot Diagnostics
If your bricked unit still works in fastboot mode then please do the following tests:
boot the Nexus in fastboot mode (when off press power+vol.dn)
connect it to your PC
on PC run:
fastboot oem gpt-info
fastboot format cache
You can run the fastboot app from Windows or Linux...
on Windows get RESTOCK and run it from the 'data' folder
or run it from live Linux
If you get "partition[30].size 27852783 KB" then your eMMC chip is from Kingston (very high failure rate).
If the format command freezes at any stage, then the eMMC chip is faulty and needs to be replaced.
The normal format output takes only 1 second and is:
Code:
Creating filesystem with parameters:
Size: 587202560
Block size: 4096
Blocks per group: 32768
Inodes per group: 7168
Inode size: 256
Journal blocks: 2240
Label:
Blocks: 143360
Block groups: 5
Reserved block group size: 39
Created filesystem with 11/35840 inodes and 4616/143360 blocks
erasing 'cache'...
OKAY [ 0.359s]
sending 'cache' (10984 KB)...
OKAY [ 0.359s]
writing 'cache'...
OKAY [ 0.484s]
finished. total time: 1.203s
QPST Diagnostics
Please upload your bricked device's memory dump for investigation. Just try the unbricking guide.
download "New Qualcomm 2012.rar"
extract the "fre" folder
connect your N7 to PC and when asked for a driver point it to the above folder
download "New_Qualcomm_QPST-2.7.422.zip"
extract it and run "setup.exe"
run Start/QPST/MemoryDebugApp.exe
in Memory Debug keep clicking "Browse" until you see a new COM port
in Memory Debug click "Get Regions"
in Memory Debug select and save "CODERAM.BIN"
upload "CODERAM.BIN" here
Repair Options
ASUS service - apparently they can now do it for free with paid shipping!
motherboard replacement - for example this one "pulled from a working unit" for $25
RIFF JTAG Box - while the box is not cheap it can be used for other devices too (v1 was $109). Optional tool.
off-circuit eMMC programming and chip replacement - it is difficult and expensive but feasible
in-circuit Service ROM flashing - after chip replacement or if eMMC is OK but with damaged partition table or bootloader
eMMC chip replacement
do not replace it with another Kingston
search for eMMC in FBGA 153 or 169 package
you can upgrade it to a higher capacity memory
new high-performance eMMC v5.1 requires updated software, available here
Nexus 7 2013 uses 3 brands of eMMC chips: Kingston, Hynix and Toshiba.
Kingston was initially identified as unreliable in this post a few years ago:
Google Nexus 7 2013 (Asus Razor)
This is bootloader repair package for Google Nexus 7 based on QUALCOMM APQ8064 MCU. Tegra based is not supported !
- GPT is for 32GB chip, hence it's not ticked by default. DO NOT tick it if You have 16GB version
- EFS/CEFS partitions You can tick in case that nothing else works, it's not recommended to try it if You haven't made backup first. In this model, partitions layout is different from all other known Qualcomm devices, hence reading first 512MB for backup wont do any help. Do do proper backup, You have to read 2GB + size (from 0x0000 0000 0000 to 0x0000 9000 0000)
Important ! ! !
- If You have device which hangs on Google logo, and resurrection process hangs at 1%, You'll have to replace the eMMC chip first. Kingston eMMC chips used in these devices oftenly fail and become unwriteable !
Attached Files Asus_Nexus_7.rar (103.60 MB)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The above file is for RIFF JTAG flasher.
My Nexus 7 JTAG collection:
Asus_Nexus_7.rar
Asus_Nexus_7.txt
nexus7 jtag.jpg
RIFF Box JTAG GettingStarted.pdf
RIFF Box JTAG Manager Setup v1.56.exe
Please post your Nexus 7 2013 eMMC maker in this thread.
So far I have collected the following reports:
Code:
BRICKED Kingston Hynix Toshiba
-------------------------------------------
graphdarnell 1
fuser-invent 1
aungmyoswe 1
marc1706 1
micl9 1
consumer61 1*
bl4cKz4cK 1
patmann03 1
CWempe 1
purian23 1
NX3 1
ali1234 1
lowridincrew 1
DaWeIII 1
HTC Tytn... 1
jaybea 1
vfrvulcan 1
TechnicsKuzya 2
barbuda 1
Snoob25 1
Dazmatic 1
459below 1
amix 1
hypochondrej 1
WORKING Kingston Hynix Toshiba
-------------------------------------------
fuser-invent 1
k23m 2
yosmokinman 2
Tmzdroid 1
graphdarnell 1 2
OrBy 1
mydian 1
quickdraw86 1
micl9 1
tegodwin 1*
noahvt 1
Carrick Glen 1*
Axel85 1
NTRNSTR 1
*2015 production
To check the chip in working units use this app or dmesg:
Code:
Kingston (MMC32G)
-----------------
mmc0: new HS200 MMC card at address 0001
mmcblk0: mmc0:0001 MMC32G 28.8 GiB
Hynix (HBG4e)
-------------
mmc0: new HS200 MMC card at address 0001
mmcblk0: mmc0:0001 HBG4e 29.1 GiB
Toshiba (016G92)
----------------
mmcblk0: mmc0:0001 016G92 14.6 GiB
It is not so simple with bricked units but this device is exceptionally easy to disassemble. The chip is on the bottom of the motherboard but unlike the top, it is not covered with any shield (the purple chip).
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
:good:
SD insight says mine is using a Toshiba chip:
Model 016g92, size 16gb, manufacture Apr 2013.
OrBy said:
SD insight says mine is using a Toshiba chip:
Model 016g92, size 16gb, manufacture Apr 2013.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The third brand - I updated our stats. Thanks a lot for your post!
Mine also says Toshiba chip that was manufactured June 2013. I purchased it in November of 2014.
mydian said:
Mine also says Toshiba chip that was manufactured June 2013. I purchased it in November of 2014.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Would you be able to check if dmesg log of Toshiba's chip matches model number in the app? My N7 has HBG4e in dmesg and the app.
k23m said:
Would you be able to check if dmesg log of Toshiba's chip matches model number in the app? My N7 has HBG4e in dmesg and the app.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Mine also has HBG4e in dsmesg and the app... Also may 2013.
I don't think this flash memory problem is mainly on Kingston equipped Nexus 7's. I previously had a device with hynix flash and it would bootloop/restart/hang at Google logo endlessly so I exchanged it for my current device (with Kingston memory ) which runs superb. Is there any way of measuring degrading flash memory over time if there is I'll do it or anything else to solve this issue.
I still have nearly 2 years warranty so am willing to be a Guinea pig.
So after nearly 2 years of daily usage my device is still running like a champ I haven't noticed any performance slowdown over time ?. The touchscreen response improved after I replaced the battery a while back I'm guessing it had something to do with the ribbon cable or the small circuit board attached to the battery ?.
Tmzdroid said:
I don't think this flash memory problem is mainly on Kingston equipped Nexus 7's. I previously had a device with hynix flash and it would bootloop/restart/hang at Google logo endlessly so I exchanged it for my current device (with Kingston memory ) which runs superb. Is there any way of measuring degrading flash memory over time if there is I'll do it or anything else to solve this issue. I still have nearly 2 years warranty so am willing to be a Guinea pig
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have Hynix N7 which had a bootloop but this was my fault, I think, because I disabled a service. Now it runs CM12.1 and no more OTAs.
Yes there is a way of measuring flash memory just like SMART in HDD - it was introduced in eMMC v5.0 as "Device Health Report" but our Nexus 7 is probably too old for it. I received a very detailed description of fuser-invent's bricked Nexus 7 with Kingston KE4CN5B6A chip which is eMMC v4.5, without the health report function.
Can you please check the production date of your Kingston? It is possible that only early units were affected and you have nothing to worry about. Kingston does not actually manufacture NAND flash and can use any component available for a product or just change it later.
k23m said:
I have Hynix N7 which had a bootloop but this was my fault, I think, because I disabled a service. Now it runs CM12.1 and no more OTAs.
Yes there is a way of measuring flash memory just like SMART in HDD - it was introduced in eMMC v5.0 as "Device Health Report" but our Nexus 7 is probably too old for it. I received a very detailed description of fuser-invent's bricked Nexus 7 with Kingston KE4CN5B6A chip which is eMMC v4.5, without the health report function.
Can you please check the production date of your Kingston? It is possible that only early units were affected and you have nothing to worry about. Kingston does not actually manufacture NAND flash and can use any component available for a product or just change it later.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's July 2013 my previous device was pure stock 6.0.1 factory reset etc it wouldn't even turn on 50% of the time I messed about inside with the ribbon connectors and insulating tape and it improved a little. I had to wait 3 weeks for a replacement which I'm very happy with. Have a look at my previous xda posts you'll get the gist of what I'm saying.
i flashed on my nexus 7 2013 one 2012 rom, now he changed to grouper and i cannot use any rom from my 2013, how i go back to the 2013 rom ? since i have signature missmatch
Try the Nexus Root Toolkit (NRT) by wugfresh
Tmzdroid said:
It's July 2013 my previous device was pure stock 6.0.1 factory reset etc it wouldn't even turn on 50% of the time I messed about inside with the ribbon connectors and insulating tape and it improved a little. I had to wait 3 weeks for a replacement which I'm very happy with. Have a look at my previous xda posts you'll get the gist of what I'm saying.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I read your thread. It was a hardware fault but not of Hynix or other eMMC which, in Nexus 7 2013, fails either catastrophically or becomes unwriteable. It looks like a battery fault. The Nexus is almost 3 years old and statistically it is time for all batteries to go now.
Have a look at my second Nexus 7 2013, it was dead, unrechargeable and would not start on external power. I replaced the original 4Ah battery with 1Ah from an ancient phone. A much smaller battery was not an issue because I always use it with power supply. I have since changed it to 2x 1Ah batteries because the old 1Ah gradually started to do exactly as you describe: rebooting (a lot) also struggling to boot up while being fully recharged and constantly connected to a charger.
Here is my screenshot from SD Insight. How do I check with dmesg? When I type it in the terminal emulator I get pages and pages of stuff and am not familiar with what I'm looking at.
mydian said:
Here is my screenshot from SD Insight. How do I check with dmesg? When I type it in the terminal emulator I get pages and pages of stuff and am not familiar with what I'm looking at.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Please type the following in the terminal:
Code:
dmesg | grep mmc0
it will be probably - mmcblk0: mmc0:0001 016G92
Or use this open source app.
Either way do it asap after reboot because dmesg is buffered and soon overwritten.
Thank you for checking it.
k23m said:
Please type the following in the terminal:
Code:
dmesg | grep mmc0
it will be probably - mmcblk0: mmc0:0001 016G92
Or use this open source app.
Either way do it asap after reboot because dmesg is buffered and soon overwritten.
Thank you for checking it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks that was much easier, and you are correct with what it says.
Thank you again. I updated the front page with Toshiba info.
:good:
i have too with Kingstone 32G EMMC
so so dead Asus Nexus 7 (2013) wifi
only, connect to computer it will " Qualcomm HS-USB DQloader 9008 "....and nothing , may be dead boot or damage emmc .If anyone have a good N7 2013 device, there is a way to backup the necessary files. Here....
so please,i need that files....
thanks for reading and sorry for my english
aungmyoswe said:
so so dead Asus Nexus 7 (2013) wifi
only, connect to computer it will " Qualcomm HS-USB DQloader 9008 "....and nothing , may be dead boot or damage emmc .If anyone have a good N7 2013 device, there is a way to backup the necessary files. Here....
so please,i need that files....
thanks for reading and sorry for my english
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Before you can use backup files, the first step is to switch from 9008 to 9006 mode. Does it work for you?
Would you be able to post the Kingstone's production date, the four digits...
:fingers-crossed:
k23m said:
Before you can use backup files, the first step is to switch from 9008 to 9006 mode. Does it work for you?
Would you be able to post the Kingstone's production date, the four digits...
:fingers-crossed:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Photo Here.....Kingstone emmc
aungmyoswe said:
Photo Here.....Kingstone emmc
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Great shots, thank you, but the date code is under the sticker. If you intend to claim warranty, do not remove it.
Another user reported code 1244 meaning the end of 2012 while still working Kingstones are (so far) from the middle of 2013. It would be interesting to know if there is a pattern here - maybe a bad batch from 2012 only?
I used bitlocker for my surface RT. I forget the password and the recovery key then I try to reset my device using recovery USB it failed at 2%
so I check my disk using diskpart. There is no partition on Disk 0. I can't do anything to the disk. it's just showing the capacity.
When I try to covert the disk to gpt (convert gpt) I got this error message
Virtual Disk Service error:
The object is not found.
Sorry for my bad English
Thank you.
surface tab RT
nesan95 said:
I used bitlocker for my surface RT. I forget the password and the recovery key then I try to reset my device using recovery USB it failed at 2%
so I check my disk using diskpart. There is no partition on Disk 0. I can't do anything to the disk. it's just showing the capacity.
When I try to covert the disk to gpt (convert gpt) I got this error message
Virtual Disk Service error:
The object is not found.
Sorry for my bad English
Thank you.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Did you ever find out how to un-brick your RT surface?
xm8 said:
Did you ever find out how to un-brick your RT surface?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No
Same issue - today I decided I wanted to do a full reset and followed what MS' site said to do (click "Skip this drive"). Looks like all that does is brick the device, great.
Mine's a Surface 2. I've done resets on this Surface 2 before, but I'd not click "Skip this drive" and instead put in the bitlocker key (which I would retrieve from the URL specified on that page).
I can barely even find any information about the diskpart error... but I guess all this means is that this Surface 2 (or at least its eMMC drive) is toast, which randomly had its touchscreen stop working a couple years ago (around the time of this post, huh). I'd like to believe it's due to some sort of security on the Surface 2 though... maybe.
Edit: Found one other thread out there on the internet of a user encountering the same issue when attempting to create partitions with diskpart on Surface 2: https://www.computing.net/answers/hardware/diskpart-cant-create-new-partition/94440.html Now I wonder if there's anyone who's _succeeded_ in doing diskpart operations on a Surface 2...
Diskpart works fine on these devices, Surface RT / 2 are quite hard to brick. Can you get to the command prompt using a USB recovery drive?
Do the following:
Diskpart
sel dis 0
clean
exit
This will fully clear the drive - then run recovery as normal.
https://support.microsoft.com/surfacerecoveryimage
jwa4 said:
Diskpart works fine on these devices, Surface RT / 2 are quite hard to brick. Can you get to the command prompt using a USB recovery drive?
Do the following:
Diskpart
sel dis 0
clean
exit
This will fully clear the drive - then run recovery as normal.
https://support.microsoft.com/surfacerecoveryimage
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, can run those commands (even did a clean /all), but restarting the recovery process fails at the same point (2%). Can't recall where but there's a script in the recovery zip that shows the diskpart commands it runs to clean, convert disk to GPT, create partitions etc. and fails for presumably the same reason.
I know it's attempting to run diskpart commands at this point: Since my touchscreen is broken (firmware probably, randomly stopped working and no amount of resets have fixed it) and its type cover is broken, I at first tried resetting by swapping a USB keyboard and the USB stick while going through the steps. It failed after a few seconds without any indication of progress. When I checked out the partitions with diskpart at this time, all 4 partitions were there and disk was marked as being GPT. When I finally decided to just use a type cover from another Surface (thus avoiding the USB swapping I was doing), this time I also received a "repartition drives?" prompt and selected yes. (Apparently, swapping out the recovery USB drive seems to dismiss the ask to repartition drives.) Recovery failed at 2%. Checked diskpart, and saw the drive with 0 partitions and not GPT - as if it did a `clean` with diskpart.
May be useful to note that ever since the touchscreen randomly stopped working back in at least 2018, my Surface 2 has had problems that appear to be symptoms of disk-related issues. I can't recall them all, but things like dism always reported issues with integrity, disk usage always pegged around 100%, and the last issue I tried to perform a reset for was the settings app just refusing to open (consistent app crash after splash screen). Other issues were that it would not wake from sleep (leading me to set it to never sleep). I can't recall if I ran any chkdsks or other stuff; I'll see if I can find any logs I may have exported. I had used the device quite often for years leading up to that, though of course ever since end of 2018 it's been just sitting around off or plugged in.
Yep, I know - stupidly I flashed the wrong image to the Shield TV pro (2015) and am stuck in apx mode.
I read somewhere I can flash a hard drive image and lose access to netflix etc due to keys. Can someone point me the way to the guide/image download so I can try and recover with this just now before I throw the box in the bin and get a new one.
Thanks.
das_kern said:
If any of you got any problems with WV L1 DRM the solution is here :
https://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=82385839&postcount=554
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Unfortunately I do not have access to my widevine keys as my hard drive is completely toast. Do you know if the widevine keys are required, or just the DTB fastboot flashing?
Cheers,
B.D.
no you cant. APX mode=ysf. send it back to nvidia
Ok, quick update.
I was able to recover by putting the drive in a USB caddy, In windows 10 I used winhex in admin mode and flashed the first GB of the drive with one of the backups that someone on here provided.
So that's me up and running now. Does anyone know the location on the drive on where the widevine keys are stored? I made a backup of the gig I overwrote before flashing, so I assume they are in that area.
Thanks.
Edit: OK I found them in broken image dump at address 0x2200000
I copied the hex from 0x2200000 (2178336 bytes) and then flashed that to the fixed drive at the same location, now Widevine is back to Level 1, so I guess that's me back up and running to the state before I bricked now.
Well done. Wish I had your tech knowledge.
Well done. Wish I had your tech knowledge.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's not all that complex really to do, as I bricked the files written were to do with the boot procedure wiping out the first stage boot loader. As the Pro (500 GB) version boots from hard drive rather than a chip it was a case of restoring the boot part - which resides at the start of the drive. As I was able to download a dump from the net (and the partition table is stored at the end of the drive - so no chance this would be wiped out), I could flash that boot loader, and then get into adb/fastboot to restore an image downloaded from Nvidia.
Now as it happens, I didn't know where the widevine keys (for DRM) were stored, and I overwrote them when I flashed the backup (and someone else's keys), so Netflix and Amazon prime video didn't work - luckily I made a backup of the first gig of my drive before I started (probably to be even safer I should have just used a spare sata drive to flash to), so I assumed if my keys were lost that they would be in that image dump (which they were). Someone was kind enough to post this:
https://nv-tegra.nvidia.com/gitweb/...11dd2d9103a205c9ed66e695664;hb=rel-29-partner
Which I was able to figure out the exact location of where the EKS partition was (where the keys are stored), so I then extracted those from my dump and flashed them back to my drive. (winhex makes that easy to do).
I've now made a backup of the first part of my drive and the last part - so if ever in the future I mess up, I can restore (brick proof). Also I had a spare 120GB SSD, so I also made a spare drive with the newest shield firmware on so I can just swap drives out if the original drive breaks down.
Instructions are here on how to do that:
https://forum.xda-developers.com/shield-tv/development/nvidia-shield-tv-ssd-t3402580
https://forum.xda-developers.com/shield-tv/general/guide-migrate-to-ssd-hdd-size-satv-pro-t3440195
So really I'm not technical at all as I was just following guides (apart from the winhex stuff).
outstanding work well done my understanding was apx mode was the proprietry nvidia bootloader and this could not be messed with welldone once again
Very interesting! I'm glad I didn't trash my 2015 Shield TV those many months ago!
rockspin said:
Very interesting! I'm glad I didn't trash my 2015 Shield TV those many months ago!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If it's a pro (500GB internal drive), it's brick proof. Even APX mode - can't break it.
If you have a spare 500GB drive, you can use that to test - use the guides I put links to - then flash someone else dumped image using those guides (using a sata drive caddy). Then on your original drive - extract the widevine keys - and flash those to the new drive. Once you're up and running - you can clone your working drive back to your orignal drive (that way you'll always have a spare and be brickproof forever).
mrdude2478 said:
If it's a pro (500GB internal drive), it's brick proof. Even APX mode - can't break it.
If you have a spare 500GB drive, you can use that to test - use the guides I put links to - then flash someone else dumped image using those guides (using a sata drive caddy). Then on your original drive - extract the widevine keys - and flash those to the new drive. Once you're up and running - you can clone your working drive back to your orignal drive (that way you'll always have a spare and be brickproof forever).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have the NON pro version, do you think this method will work?
rockspin said:
I have the NON pro version, do you think this method will work?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not with the non pro - the bootloader/software is held on the nand/nor (16GB chip that holds the firmware - I can't remember off the top of my head what type of chip it is). You'd need to find the pinouts of that chip to reprogram it with a hardware programmer.
Another way would be like the way that Nintendo switch is hacked - (purposely put into apx mode), then a modded apx driver loads software from USB (or via usb dongle/computer/chip) which would then allow you to reflash via the Fusée Gelée hack. I think if you go to the switch hacking scene, and visit https://www.ktemkin.com/ - ktemkin was looking for a bricked switch so he/she could write a driver for it for unbricking purposes - he/she has a twitter feed and was asking on there. Maybe you could make
contact and get help on unbricking via software as that would be far easier than removing a chip and flashing it with a programmer.
The difference from booting via a hard drive is that - the software is stored on the drive - not on a chip - so it's easy to recover via a PC. If there's a way to add a hard drive to a 16GB model - that would probably work, but you'd need to compare motherboards to see the difference on how the chip version differs from the HD version - I would imagine both motherboards are similar - if you somehow managed to boot a HD on a 16GB chip model - you could most likely be able to access your flash memory that way to reprogram - but that might be out of your skill level, and the time it would take to do it - you'd most likely be cheaper just buying a new shield.
If I was you though - keep hold of the shield - you may get a modded apx driver at some point in the future and be able to reflash that way.
If you have the 2015 (16GB) version - it could be possible to boot from sata - but you'll need a 500GB drive and a working dump (already posted in this site), and some soldering skills - read this entire page for info on soldering info, adding capacitors - https://www.eevblog.com/forum/reviews/teardown-nvidia-shield-tv/
mrdude2478 said:
Ok, quick update.
I was able to recover by putting the drive in a USB caddy, In windows 10 I used winhex in admin mode and flashed the first GB of the drive with one of the backups that someone on here provided.
So that's me up and running now. Does anyone know the location on the drive on where the widevine keys are stored? I made a backup of the gig I overwrote before flashing, so I assume they are in that area.
Thanks.
Edit: OK I found them in broken image dump at address 0x2200000
I copied the hex from 0x2200000 (2178336 bytes) and then flashed that to the fixed drive at the same location, now Widevine is back to Level 1, so I guess that's me back up and running to the state before I bricked now.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
First of all , thanks!! I have exact same problem
How did you copy the hex? I'm not sure how to do it . ..
mrdude2478 said:
Ok, quick update.
I was able to recover by putting the drive in a USB caddy, In windows 10 I used winhex in admin mode and flashed the first GB of the drive with one of the backups that someone on here provided.
So that's me up and running now. Does anyone know the location on the drive on where the widevine keys are stored? I made a backup of the gig I overwrote before flashing, so I assume they are in that area.
Thanks.
Edit: OK I found them in broken image dump at address 0x2200000
I copied the hex from 0x2200000 (2178336 bytes) and then flashed that to the fixed drive at the same location, now Widevine is back to Level 1, so I guess that's me back up and running to the state before I bricked now.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you for your work.，Can you backup the 1GB data including EKS? My devices widevine keys (for DRM) is Level 3, thanks!!
oldshanshi said:
Thank you for your work.，Can you backup the 1GB data including EKS? My devices widevine keys (for DRM) is Level 3, thanks!!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's not how it works, you have to back up YOUR keys that came on your device hard drive. That's the only way it will match the keys to the hardware on your shield TV.
mrdude2478 said:
...
OK I found them in broken image dump at address 0x2200000
I copied the hex from 0x2200000 (2178336 bytes) and then flashed that to the fixed drive at the same location, now Widevine is back to Level 1, so I guess that's me back up and running to the state before I bricked now.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ok I'm having the same issue you did, bricking the pro with a bad flash.
I'm just editing the hex for my backup to retrieve the keys from my EKS partition. Can I ask you to confirm/clarify ..
1. The blocks you copied are at curser offset 2200000 (I've got that far, I can read the hex stating that the eks partition starts there).
2. You then copied 2178336 bytes of data from that curser offset?
The reason I'm asking is that I can't see any bytes of data around that end curser offset to start a new partition etc. so I want to make sure I get all the EKS data needed.
Thanks, the info you posted here has been really valuable in getting me to this point.
EDIT: Yeah, that all worked out in the end. The actual amount of data in that EKS partition is very minimal, it doesn't use all of those 2178336 bytes at all and I didn't even copy the hex for all of it as most of it was simply empty! Anyway, I've managed to restore my shield with Netflix etc all working so thank you again for sharing this information!
mrdude2478 said:
Ok, quick update.
I was able to recover by putting the drive in a USB caddy, In windows 10 I used winhex in admin mode and flashed the first GB of the drive with one of the backups that someone on here provided.
So that's me up and running now. Does anyone know the location on the drive on where the widevine keys are stored? I made a backup of the gig I overwrote before flashing, so I assume they are in that area.
Thanks.
Edit: OK I found them in broken image dump at address 0x2200000
I copied the hex from 0x2200000 (2178336 bytes) and then flashed that to the fixed drive at the same location, now Widevine is back to Level 1, so I guess that's me back up and running to the state before I bricked now.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
kirillinfinite said:
First of all , thanks!! I have exact same problem
How did you copy the hex? I'm not sure how to do it . ..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Once you've got your backup file it will be in a .bin format, I'm presuming you've got that far. Once you've got that you need to read the hex data with a hex editor, any should do it really. Then you want to go to address 0x2200000 (that's at curser offset 2200000 in hex mode). You'll see a header in the translation window which indicates it's EKS data. You need to copy that data until it stops and there's just zeros).
You then need to open the .bin file that you downloaded which you want to restore (this won't have your eks partition data in it yet) and find the same data with the hex editor as you did before. You then want to overwrite it with the data from your back up. It needs to be copied in the exactly the same location so make sure of that.
Once you've done that you can flash the data using DD commands in Linux and follow the tutorials linked before.
@andy4shure, well done on fixing your Shield, here's some info for future reference:
Shield Pro SSHD Drive Size: 500107862016 bytes (0x7470C06000)
Shield Operating System (7.1):
Start Offset: 0x0
To Offset: 0xD2913BFF (Total Size: 3532733440 bytes)
Widevine Keys Location: (back these up before doing anything - or you'll lose access to widevine level 1)
(Search for Hex: 902100004E56454B5350)
Start Offset: 0x2200000
End Offset: 0x22021FF (Total Size: 8704 bytes)
Partition Table - (Stored at the end of the drive - required on a new drive so the drive can boot and access partitions - you'll need these for a new drive):
From Offset:0x7470C04C00 (sector 976773158)
To Offset: 0x7470C05FFF (Total Size: 5120 bytes)
If you flash someone else's dump, or reflash the firmware - wipe the user data - or you might get stuck on the nvidia logo:
Erase Userdata:
fastboot erase userdata
fastboot erase cache
or
fastboot format userdata
fastboot format cache
After having restored my Shield TV with the shared image and my DRM keys I have realised that there is another key which I needed to restore - the serial number of the device. Not everyone may be bothered about restoring this back to the original as it doesn't affect use of Netflix or any DRM restriced content but there are definitely some use cases. If your device is still under warranty then Nvidia will ask for this (although my warranty is long expired). If you're selling the device and want it to match the packaging serial number then you will have to do this as well. In my case however, I actually had app licences tied to this serial so I needed to restore the original key for that reason.
Now after looking into this serial number a little further it is a 20 character key and although my serial is all numeric I have seen evidence that it can also be alphanumeric.
Also, the key is split into 2 parts...
- The first 14 characters are declared within a partition on the drive and *I think* these are all numeric. As it is declared in a drive partition this means it is editable and can be restored back to the original.
- The last 6 characters seem to be derived from hardware and are not declared anywhere on the drive. This isn't a problem though as this means that they will remain the same no matter if you have the original first part or not!
After looking through the dump of the HDD the serial is actually mentioned in a number of places, however, most seem to be boot logs (mainly from twrp). The actual declaration of the key can be found at address 0x10502156 and the block size to replace is 14 bytes, literally just the first 14 characters of the serial.
Once that is replaced the Shield TV picks up on it straight away on next boot and I didn't need to wipe any cache or anything.
Hopefully this will help someone else that comes across this thread looking for help like I did! Thanks again to @mrdude2478 as I would probably still have a bricked shield if it weren't for him sharing info on how he restored his device.
Andy4Shurr said:
After looking through the dump of the HDD the serial is actually mentioned in a number of places, however, most seem to be boot logs (mainly from twrp). The actual declaration of the key can be found at address 0x10502156 and the block size to replace is 14 bytes, literally just the first 14 characters of the serial.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Can you do a screenshot - I checked my dump (or what I restored from), and it doesn't look like a serial at that address: Mine are all at different addresses (but in plain text).
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
Thanks.
mrdude2478 said:
Can you do a screenshot - I checked my dump (or what I restored from), and it doesn't look like a serial at that address: Mine are all at different addresses (but in plain text).
Thanks.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That definitely doesn't look like mine did, I'll check my dump and take a screenshot ASAP. It could be a few days to a week though, we're doing some work to the spare bedroom where my PC is so I can't get to it at the moment.
I'll update this post when I've got it
@mrdude2478 offset which @Andy4Shurr wrote is correct but it's decimal. Correct hex offset: 0xa0400C
I got a hard bricked HTC Desire 816 single SIM, EU version, Qualcomm MSM8928 Snapdragon 400 chipset
I know for sure it's a HTC single SIM phone, the rest I googled with the help of part numbers printed on various parts of the phone.
I can post the numbers if it helps to identify the phone
I guess it's an European model and not an import.
When I connect it to a PC I get a Qualcomm HS-USB QDLoader 9008 (Com4) port detected
I fully charged the battery on an external charger.
I have tried this guide: https://forum.xda-developers.com/t/guide-unbrick-htc-816w-a5_dug-from-hard-bricked-9008.3391110/ but the phone does nothing, when I press Vol- & Power button.
I see the phone in various SW like QFIL but I have no idea what firmware is the correct one.
I would like to read the whole phone content to identify which firmware I need - but how?
Or is there a other how identify the phone? Perhaps restore only the preloader, bootloader ... ?
Any advice how to proceed?
Thank you
Some progress ...
I need QPST or something similar, what is able to flash in emergency download mode - done
I need to download and extract probably suitable firmwares - done
I need a suitable programmer for the MSM8928 - probably done
But the firmwares are not in an usable format for the QPST Software Download.
How do I convert them to mbn or hex?
The firmwares are incomplete, it seems I need a complete mmcblk0 dump ...
It seems I'm out of luck.
I've tried different tools under Windows and Linux (to rule out Windows driver issues) but the result is the same.
I can download the prog_emmc_firehose_8928.mbn but that's it, the port stops responding after that.
I've also tried to boot two images (A5_DUG and A5_DWGL) from a SD Card and nothing, no sign of life.
I know need a A5_UL image but I thought the phone should show at least some sign of life but nothing :-(
The only sign of life is the port in EDL mode, when connected to a PC.
Is the phone dead or is there something else I could try?
I'm out of ideas ...
Some news.
I got some responses to SAHARA commands from the phone:
Attempting to switch device to mode: Command Mode
Device is awaiting client commands
Serial Number: AAA - BBB
Unknown ID 1: 0
Unknown ID 2: 0
MSM HW ID: 32993 - 000080E1
OEM Public Key Hash Hex:
========
Dumping Data For Command: 0x06 - Read Debug Data - 3904 Bytes
========
SBL SW Version: 0
========
Dumping Data For Command: 0x00 - NOP - 16 Bytes
========
Requesting mode switch from Command Mode (0x03) to Memory Debug (0x02)
Devices responded with an error: Invalid Command
Port Closed
Firehose programmer download:
/dev/ttyUSB1 USB VIDID=05c6:9008 Qualcomm CDMA Technologies MSM QHSUSB__BULK
Connected to /dev/ttyUSB1
Reading hello handshake
Device In Mode: Image Transfer Pending
Version: 2
Minimum Version: 1
Max Command Packet Size: 1024
Device requesting 80 bytes of image 0x0D - EHOSTDL
Sending image /prog_emmc_firehose_8928.mbn
Image /prog_emmc_firehose_8928.mbn successfully sent.
If there are no more images requested, you should send the done command.
Sending Done Command
Done Command Successfully Sent
No response from device
It seems that the prog_emmc_firehose_8928.mbn is not the correct one ...