Develop Bugs

[GUIDE] HTC Desire HD Camera guide - all issues resolved

[final update 10/11/2012]
I have moved to the HTC One X you can see my photo samples from the One X here and here
You can find much more impressive photos posted by One X users in this thread
so I've concluded a similar guide for the One X is not really needed
[last updated 11/12/2011]
3.12.405.1 Update:
. Introduces new scenes options: portrait, landscape, action, closeup, backlight, beach, snow, candlelight and low light.
It attempts to auto select settings based on the scenario of choice, image quality remains bad because it locks the sharpness setting to 0, thankfully with scenes>auto you can override, control sharpness and follow this guide
. Improved quality: color treatment, face detection, auto focus and low light
. Low light video recording @30Fps is back, its achievable by using the low exposure trick
. For root users Panorama mode can be enabled here>>
2.36.405.8_R Update:
. Introduces improved sharpness algorithm, sharpness -1 is now acceptable
. new colors treatment, tries to extract more colors and adds some sort of soft bloom, sometime gives unreal results and colored grain, can't be disabled
. higher 720p recording video/audio bit rate
. a new option called auto enhance which blurs noise in the image at the cost of details, fortunately it can be disabled
. low light video recording 30fps is no longer achievable using the low exposure trick, you can still achieve better fps using this trick but not full fps
1.72.405.3_R2 Update:
. improve system performance and camera feature enhancements
. camera interface is faster after the update and 720p recording freeze bug is fixed
A lot of people even reviewers have been complaining about the camera quality, however the Desire HD boosts a good 8 mega pixels senor, you can achieve great results if you know your way around it.
I will start this guide by showing some tasty examples since this thread is all about photo quality please don't complain about photo sizes as its meant to be examined.
The guide is intended for the stock HTC camera app, although the general guidelines can apply to any other camera app.
The following is a quick version of this guide, each setting is later explored in details.
Manually set your focus, wait for the focus signal to turn green, keep your hand steady until the shot is taken (keep it till the preview appears)
Make sure the camera protection glass is wiped clean
To fix image quality: Disable digital sharpness so it’s set to -2 or reduce it to -1 if you feel its too soft but never sharpness 0, you can later increase sharpness using external apps
To fix the video recording freezes: update to firmware 1.72 or above, also make sure no apps are busy in the background (i.e. skype)
To fix low light bad video FPS: reduce the exposure setting to -2, it will go up to 30fps, use the flash to boost the brightness back
To fix the green tint caused by the flash: set white balance to Fluorescent
To fix the changing colors while recording video indoors: set the white balance manualy. Auto is good during daylight but jumpy indoors
Higher ISO will always boost the camera available light, so higher ISO improves frame rate, reduces motion blur and reveals more detail in darkness. However keep in mind higher ISO will reduce image quality since it introduces noise to the image. Auto ISO is pretty smart
If your photo is washed out, use the auto enhance effect from the gallery to fix levels and color balance, your photo will stay at 8MP, the enhanced photo will be saved as a new file
Taken at 8 mega pixels, sharpness -2, everything else is default Contrast/exposure/saturation 0, ISO auto, White balance auto and Flash is off.
These are from first attempt and untouched It’s just Flickr resizing them. Flickr limits the size to 1k.
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Larger: http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/sets/72157625450976523/
more samples here: HTC Desire HD group on Flickr
As you can see these photos look great and natural, two things the Desire HD camera excels at, color reproduction and marco shots which works automatically as long as you set your focus correctly.
The main issue we need to tackle with the camera is the sharpness setting.
Image adjustments: Sharpness
+1 +2: Increases noise reduction and sharpness, however it doesn’t appear to change much from the default, the screen displays more sharpness but when you examine the photo taken there is little difference
0: Default value, in reality it applies aggressive noise reduction and sharpness
-1: Reduces noise reduction and sharpness.
-2: Disables noise reduction and sharpness completely
At default this setting is set at 0 with four other options (-2, -1, 0, +1, +2) so effectively the default sharpness is actually set at 2.
Like other cameras, at first it attempts to reduce noise by blurring out fine detail and then attempts to restore detail by sharpening edges.
However it’s all very over done so it introduces lots of blur and artifacts, even down scaling the image by half leaves it looking unnatural.
As you can see its pretty bad job at default, it’s a good thing we have the option to reduce it or turn it off, despite being a little soft-2 looks the most natural and has the most detail.
Recommendation: disable it at -2 so you capture the pure image taken as by the camera sensor, despite looking a little soft at full scale it’s still a lot of pixels at 8MP so it will look great when scaled like on the phone screen, TV, websites like Flickr or even print.
If you want a little more sharpness you can extract more detail by sharpening it in Photoshop, you can also sharpen it using an app like PicSay pro which is pretty good but sadly downscales it to 1MP.
By the way some of the effects in the gallery can improve definition and sharpness, more on this later.
Otherwise If you must have some sharpness in the image and willing to sacrifice some image quality you can set it at -1 which is less aggressive. But as you can see above even with -1 detail are getting lost.
Keep in mind taking a photo with the default sharpness applied will leave little choice to fix it later, since the image details are already tempered with.
Image adjustments: Contrast, Saturation, Exposure
Contrast: controls the levels between black and white, reducing it will reveal more detail in dark areas but at the loss of overall definition.
Saturation: controls the richness of colors, increasing it can reveal more grain.
Exposure: controls brightness, you increase the brightness but risk over exposing an area.
This setting appears to have an affect on the camera speed and frame rate, reducing it will increase frame rate at low light, -2 it can achieve up to 30fps at low light.
Recommendation: leave them at default 0 which is well balanced, unless you see a need to adjust your photo.
White balance
White balance enables the camera to capture colors more accurately by adjusting to your current lighting
environment. White balance settings include: Auto, Incandescent, Fluorescent, Daylight, and Cloudy.
Recommendation: leave it at auto it does a good job, unless your photo appears wrong in the viewfinder.
You can use Fluorescent to fix the yellow colors hue caused by using the Flash.
If you are filming a video indoors set it manually since it’s a little jumpy.
Focus
Auto simply sets the focus at the center of the screen whenever you move the camera, you can still pick your focus even with auto focus engaged.
If you want properly focused shots without any blur plus good photo framing you will have to set your focus manually, focus will also adjust your target exposure.
A slight issue sometimes after you set the focus the handset detects a slight movement and resets the focus at the center so you need to be careful.
Unlike previous HTC phones you can no longer keep holding an area to focus and shoot, you will need to press the capture button after the focus is set.
Auto focus also has a face detection sub function; it works really well when people are in frame.
Recommendation: Unless you want a quick point a shoot photo always set the focus yourself, it will insure you get the proper sharpness plus fix the exposure of your subject.
If people are in the picture face detection will do the job for you. If you like to insure the focus never mess up turn off auto focus altogether but you will lose face detection functionality.
Of course always wait for the focus pointer to turn green.
Self Portrait & Self Timer
Self portrait: If you want your camera to automatically take people photos, you can set it to identify 1 or 2 faces and automatically adjust the focus.
Self timer: If you need to take a group photo or your own photo, you can set a time delay before your camera automatically takes the photo.
ISO, Shutter speed & Flash
ISO determines how sensitive the image sensor is to light, increasing it will help you get more light in darker settings, however the higher the ISO the grainier the photo will look.
The Shutter speed is also affected by light sensitivity, so higher ISO can reduce motion blur.
Recommendation: leave it at auto it does a good job of detecting the needed settings, however if you notice the image is too grainy, too dark or suffering motion blur you can adjust it manually.
Use an ISO of 100 or 200 when taking photographs outside in sunny conditions. If the sky is overcast or it is evening time, then use an ISO within the range of 400 to 800.
Moving subjects will require some ISO and flash consideration to prevent motion blur.
Shutter Speed
The shutter speed in the DHD is linked to the available light, testing in daylight at low ISO reveals motion blur with moving subjects.
Higher ISO means more light so it will snap moving subjects sharply of course of at the cost of increasing grain in the image.
You can see the difference in the viewfinder by changing the ISO value (in daylight). The higher the ISO the less motion blur.
Exposure also seems to have an effect on the camera speed, reducing it can reduce motion blur at low light.
Recommendation: Compared to other phones the capturing and saving speed itself is pretty fast.
So when capturing moving subjects a good practice is to snap multiple shots in a raw to make sure you get a good shot, you can disable preview to make this process faster.
As always insure your hand is steady and wait until the photo is completely taken i.e. wait a little after you press capture.
If you can't be bothered then rely on ISO 400 or 800 to prevent motion blur with moving subjects. At low light you still have to insure a steady capture, exposure consideration and enable flash to help.
Flash
If it’s very dark you will have to rely on the flash, The good news is with auto ISO the flash rarely burns your subject and it usually selects a good ISO.
Flash will also help in preventing motion blur. However flash tints the image with some green-yellow hue, it can be improved using the following tricks.
Tips to improve the yellow color tint:
Thanks to Elemental_Fire for the tip! you can get much more natural colors while using the flash by choosing Fluorescent for white balance.
Remember this white balance tip is only good during flash, if you keep it at fluorescent it might ruin your daylight shots.
Like any other photo you can also improve it by using the auto enhance feature in the gallery effects menu.
Here are some examples of low light and flash performance of the DHD camera
Larger: http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/sets/72157625585331314/
Widescreen
To fill the viewfinder 5:3 widescreen aspect is selected by default it gives a cropped photo at the size of 3264x1952, while disabling it produces a full 8 megapixels 4:3 photo at 3264x2448
Recommendation: Leave it disabled, you are loosing lots of pixels with 5:3, even better when widescreen is disabled the viewfinder actually runs smoother.
Gallery Effects
A very nice feature included in the new sense, it allows you to further improve your photos from within the gallery.
On the Gallery app’s Albums screen, tap an album > Press and hold on the photo that you want to add effects to > In the menu that opens, tap Edit, and then tap Effects.
There are too many to list but auto fix will improve the colors and contrast of your photo, while effects like high contrast will add an artistic vignette and increase the sharpness of your image, of course you can also apply them over each other.
It works at native 8 mega pixels photo without badly recompressing it.
Here are some examples (original, auto enhance, high contrast, lively and overexpose)
Larger: http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/sets/72157625585449676/
720p Video recording
Zooming is not available in 720p mode but you can change focus while filming.
In good to ok lighting conditions, the Desire HD films at 30fps, but it can drop to 20 fps and as low as 10fps if its dark.
The exposure settings seems to have an effect on the camera performance, so reducing it will improve frame rate and reduce motion blur.
Filming at 800x480 allows you to zoom in while filming.
The video encoding is good at 8MB/s baseline mp4 level 3.1 but the audio is badly compressed at 8 kHz 32 kbps! Maybe to improve performance…
Recommendation: The main issue with photos applies in 720p, the sharpness setting at default 0 is pretty bad especially with filming people.
Unlike photo mode, setting sharpness to +1 or +2 makes a visible increase in sharpness.
The video will be full of artifacts and jaggies unless you disable it with sharpness -2 or lower it at -1 if you really like sharpness.
If you are filming indoor manually select your white balance, with auto its quit jumpy and keeps changing while filming!
To film at 30fps in low light, scale exposure down to -2 and use the Flash to boost the brightness.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c2uK6uk5MIw&hd=1
The above video recorded 30fps at sunset without any lag, using auto ISO. Keep in mind when you upload to YouTube it re-encodes the video
720p Freeze/Lag issue: [issue appears resolved with the 1.72.405.3 update]
It can be solved by killing tasks before recording, use an app like free advanced task manager hit end all and then launch the camera app. Be careful of background heavy like Skype.
Some people have said formatting the SD card with 32k cluster size will help but I found no solution other than killing tasks before recording, I have the bundled class 2 microSd and it works every time.
Solutions for bad FPS in low light conditions:
Thanks to SupremeBeaver for this excellent tip! Reducing the exposure will improve frame rate, at exposure -2 the frame rate will jump up to 30fps, you can then use both the flash and ISO 800 to boost the brightness, perfect solution for indoors low light.
Keep in mind extra light will always help both the image quality and pefromance, so make use of the Flash and ISO settings, although by default auto ISO takes care of it pretty well.
You can't select the ISO level while in video mode but you can force it in photo mode, of course this will also result in a grainier image.
more samples here from solopalmari.com http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CNtZSgcaToY
Finally the fun part
Desire HD vs Desire vs iPhone4
The iPhone4 has a very good sharpness algorithm, which is quite similar to what you can get with Photoshop. Its great outdoor but fails badly in indoor daylight lighting.
It extracts a lot of noise, perhaps the sensor is working at a very high ISO and unlike the Desire HD you can't adjust any of this.
In case of 720p recording iPhone 4 is the winner by default, it always films at 30fps even in low light (with lots of noise). However the Desire HD can achieve equal results by filming with exposure -2.
The flash on the iphone 4 is a major fail, on the other hand it has a very nice HDR mode. Finally color reproduction on the DHD is better, colors with the iphone4 are adjusted and unreal.
To conclude the DHD has a quit good camera, its only the default HTC settings failing it, fortunately it can all be solved by understanding the available settings.
Deal with sharpness, understand ISO, set framing and focus right and you can achieve great results.
Finally don't forget to experiment with the effects feature in both the camera and gallery which are really impressive.
Feel free to post your success stories or questions
have fun!

thanks i've asked the mod to stick it, it should save lots of questions about the camera

Nice job Hamdir, looks like quite some work!
I did notice the comment on the sharpness -2 setting in one of the other camera threads. It does give the photo's a sort of 'blurred' feel imho, judging the above comparison pics.
Anyway, very clear comparison of all the possible settings.

That must have taken some time to put together . Thanks very much for it, greatly appreciated.

paulus_01 said:
Nice job Hamdir, looks like quite some work!
I did notice the comment on the sharpness -2 setting in one of the other camera threads. It does give the photo's a sort of 'blurred' feel imho, judging the above comparison pics.
Anyway, very clear comparison of all the possible settings.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
yes i'm the one who keeps preaching sharpness -2 hehe
its a little soft at full scale, but why would you ever look at a photo at this size?
it can be improved in many ways since the details are there in the image, anything higher then -2 will mess up the original photo in my opinion
you can settle to sharpness -1 its the closest we can get to Photoshop sharpness quality but you can see in the comparison some details are lost in the bushes for example
don't come anywhere near sharpness 0 its pure @#$%
anyone knows how to embed a youtube video? i can't get it to work

Superb post... thanks for that.
My main issue is capturing moving people (especially my 2 year old!) indoors. Keep getting blurred shots/footage.
Any suggestions to improve this?
Thanks again.

mjt said:
Superb post... thanks for that.
My main issue is capturing moving people (especially my 2 year old!) indoors. Keep getting blurred shots/footage.
Any suggestions to improve this?
Thanks again.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
good question, i'll add a part for that, sadly it seems the shutter speed is a little slow in the DHD.
But capturing a photo is still very quick so there is a solution, when i'm snapping a photo of people i take a few quick shots in a raw, one of them will work
hope this helps

My camera issue:
Having decent settings to get the best result is one thing, having a design flaw is another:
Below is a picture I have taken with the DHD inside a football stadium (it has been resized, but that is irrelevant for the point I am making).
I am sitting 1 meter from the field, with just one row beneath me.
When I try to take a picture of the field, the lights in the roof of the stadium reflect behind the camera's glass protection (it actually reflects behind the black circle which says 8.0 megapixels). This results in the reflection being caught on camera as well.
This, in my opinion, is a design flaw and really should not have occurred. What is your opinion?
it happens mainly when you take a picture and a bright lightsource is above and opposite from you, while your camera is pointed straightforward.

i don't get it, isn't this lens flare? it occurs in all cameras, otherwise you need a specialty lens to deal with this
as a matter fact we simulate and add it as an effect when we make a CG stadium animation...

None of the pics I made with my K850i had this show up.
I think this should not happen, it is a reflection of the light on the inside of the camera cover or something.

i think it varies between different lenses, cameras and phones, i don't know its clearly lens flare, here check these from google
and this a straight shot of the sun, its just lens flare tons of cameras do that

[edit]thanks, is it working for you? it gives me "movie not loaded" can anyone confirms the video is embedded?

I don't know, to me it seems reflection bounces from the back of the black glass cover.
I get your point of it being flare, however, it looks a bit different to me.

brilliant guide! nicely laid out! u clearly have experience with photography and it shows! thanks very much, i cant wait to get snapping on christmas day! =)

hamdir said:
good question, i'll add a part for that, sadly it seems the shutter speed is a little slow in the DHD.
But capturing a photo is still very quick so there is a solution, when i'm snapping a photo of people i take a few quick shots in a raw, one of them will work
hope this helps
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Did you ever get a chance to see if there's any solution to this?

An amazing guide! I hope to buy the phone before Christmas and the one thing, other than the battery life, that was of concern to me was the quality of the camera, however with you suggestions I don't think it will be as big an issue.

Amazing guide! thank you for that!
I have a question, using my DHD at a night club, all photos came out either overexposed, unfocused, alot of noise or other kind of poor image quality.
The photos you took with flash surprised me a lot. Is there a special reason for that?

co0kie said:
Amazing guide! thank you for that!
I have a question, using my DHD at a night club, all photos came out either overexposed, unfocused, alot of noise or other kind of poor image quality.
The photos you took with flash surprised me a lot. Is there a special reason for that?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
never had this problem, only yest at the pub I tried to take a quick photo of a friend, it was out of focus in the viewfinder so I had to get the camera to focus right at this point the focus sticks to the same distance for the next shots
so make sure you get focus, quick point and snap doesn't always work well at night. Also in low light the viewfinder slows down so you need to make sure your hand is steady.
I now have a habit of snapping multiple shots in row, later I delete the ones that came out badly
one thing I can't figure out is motion blur, sometimes fast moving subjects get blurred on the other hand I have dozens of amazingly focused shots of friends while moving.
The only explanation I could think of is maybe the shutter speed adjusts in auto or maybe its related to low light and high ISO since most of the motion blurred shots are at night without flash, I will try to investigate this.

Hamdir,I appreciate your amazing work and admire the effort and time you put to it,but I just have one thing to disagree with.You said that 720p video at low light conditions has a very low framerate,whereas the iPhone 4 get 30fps but with noise,right?Try upping your ISO all the way to 800 from the photo mode in the camera and then switch to video and record one.You will get full fps,just noise will occur.Most phones probably do that automatically(that's why they all give noise in low light IMO).I saw that with my friend's SE Vivaz.Try that and report back!
Other than that,your work seems...Flawless!Well done!I hope there are more people like you around here!

tolis626 said:
Hamdir,I appreciate your amazing work and admire the effort and time you put to it,but I just have one thing to disagree with.You said that 720p video at low light conditions has a very low framerate,whereas the iPhone 4 get 30fps but with noise,right?Try upping your ISO all the way to 800 from the photo mode in the camera and then switch to video and record one.You will get full fps,just noise will occur.Most phones probably do that automatically(that's why they all give noise in low light IMO).I saw that with my friend's SE Vivaz.Try that and report back!
Other than that,your work seems...Flawless!Well done!I hope there are more people like you around here!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
cool nice tip ill try it, if it works ill add to the guide thx

Question for the photography experts / buffs. i

The one pet peeve I had with the S7 camera (I had both the S7E and the S7 earlier this year) was that the plane of focus was so narrow that large parts of the photo would be out of focus or blurry (subject and where you tapped to focused would be spot on, but rest of image would often be hazy I AM NOT TALKING ABOUT THE BOKEH EFFECT PRODUCED BY SHALLOW DEPTH OF FIELD!). I recently got the Note 7 and it too seemed to suffer from the same problem. All this is shooting in Auto mode.
However, taking the same exact shot in Pro mode (with ISO, Shutter, WB and Focus still set to Auto,) the photos come out better! It's weird, everything set to auto in pro mode should be same as Auto mode, but its not. I think it's because Pro mode gives you the option to set Focus to "Multi AF" instead of "Center AF" as well as the option to do matrix metering.
Now my question is whether there is a way to set auto focus to Multi, and metering to Matrix in the Auto mode. Doesn't seem to be any menu options.

Most likely the Aperture. When you focus on an object with the Apeture wide open (provided the aperture is big enough) it will blue the objects outside of the focus point. The phone has an apeture of 1.7 which is pretty good.

doc_loco said:
Most likely the Aperture. When you focus on an object with the Apeture wide open (provided the aperture is big enough) it will blue the objects outside of the focus point. The phone has an apeture of 1.7 which is pretty good.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You are missing the point. I am well aware of depth of field and aperture, and what the 1.7 does. I am talking about multi AF versus spot AF and metering.

xxaarraa said:
You are missing the point. I am well aware of depth of field and aperture, and what the 1.7 does. I am talking about multi AF versus spot AF and metering.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
In Auto mode it seems to prefer opening up the aperture all the way for that subtle bokeh effect. It seems there is no way to override the aperture behavior of Auto (which is more aggressive than the 'auto' of pro).

kaylorRN said:
In Auto mode it seems to prefer opening up the aperture all the way for that subtle bokeh effect. It seems there is no way to override the aperture behavior of Auto (which is more aggressive than the 'auto' of pro).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The aperture does not change.
I'm pretty sure what you're experiencing is the depth of field, and having f/1.7 is an unfortunate side effect at times. The only way pro mode would be any different is if Samsung's processing is playing with focus in a less than optimal way. If the exact area you intend to focus on is 100% in focus, I see no reason that pro and auto mode would be any different.

Not being funny or anything but have you made sure there's no plastic film thing over the camera lens? Sometimes can be hard to see that it's on there. Only say that because I've not seen any examples of this happening else where like in note 7 camera review videos etc.

Nitemare3219 said:
The aperture does not change.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes. It does. The quoted 1.7 is maximum size. if it couldn't be effectively made smaller, every picture in moderately bright light would look like the surface of the sun. Go into pro mode, you can manually adjust from a pin point (almost closed) 1/24000 to a huge (wide open) 10.
Nitemare3219 said:
I'm pretty sure what you're experiencing is the depth of field, and having f/1.7 is an unfortunate side effect at times. The only way pro mode would be any different is if Samsung's processing is playing with focus in a less than optimal way. If the exact area you intend to focus on is 100% in focus, I see no reason that pro and auto mode would be any different.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It is a dept of field issue and they are (pro and auto) different. In Auto mode, it seems that the aperture is kept overly open and the exposure is shortened (less motion blur, more saturated colors, narrower DOF) on purpose. It looks nice. I've paid good money for SLR lenses with a larger aperture so I could make nice portraits with an out of focus background. But it's not what you always want. In pro mode you can manually adjust the effective aperture (same as f-stop in photo lingo). You can set the aperture to 'auto' in the Pro mode and it seems to be better about focusing a larger area of the photo by using a narrower aperture and a longer exposure and lower "iso" sensitivity. So Auto and Pro with all 'auto' settings appear to behave differently.

I really appreciate you guys taking the time to add to this discussion, particularly kaylorRN. But I fear you are all missing the point entirely. My original question may have been poorly worded I suppose.
I am not talking about focus blur or depth of field. I am very familiar with that concept. What I am talking about is situations when you shoot for an entire image to be in focus, but large parts of the image are still out of focus. Best to show you. Look at these photos shot with my old S7:
Photo 1
Photo 2
Photo 3
Photo 4
There is no real 'subject' in these photos, and they are not macro shots, so depth of field / bokeh / focus blur is not relevant. Those photos are normal, everyday photos where the entire photo is expected to be in focus. But you can see the S7 camera in Auto mode locks onto a very small area and other large areas of the photos are blurry.
Shooting with the Note 7 in Pro mode (with all parameters still left on Auto) seems to minimize this problem. I have a feeling its because pro mode allows you to shoot in "Multi AF" and lets you do matrix metering. Can anyone confirm or deny this hypothesis?
Again, I am not talking about depth of field / aperture.

Does anyone know if shape correction has any negative effect? I was going to use it but unsure of the ups/downs
Sent from my SM-N930V using XDA-Developers mobile app

kaylorRN said:
Yes. It does. The quoted 1.7 is maximum size. if it couldn't be effectively made smaller, every picture in moderately bright light would look like the surface of the sun. Go into pro mode, you can manually adjust from a pin point (almost closed) 1/24000 to a huge (wide open) 10.
.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Umm, that's shutter speed; not aperture. There is no way to control aperture because it is fixed on these phones. The phone compensates for the fixed aperture by reducing the shutter speed.
Look at the EXIF data from any picture taken with the s7 or note7 and they'll all have the same aperture. Pretty much any phone behaves the same way (the aperture may be different, but it'll be fixed).
Sent from my SM-N930W8 using Tapatalk

xxaarraa said:
I really appreciate you guys taking the time to add to this discussion, particularly kaylorRN. But I fear you are all missing the point entirely. My original question may have been poorly worded I suppose.
I am not talking about focus blur or depth of field. I am very familiar with that concept. What I am talking about is situations when you shoot for an entire image to be in focus, but large parts of the image are still out of focus. Best to show you. Look at these photos shot with my old S7:
Photo 1
Photo 2
Photo 3
Photo 4
There is no real 'subject' in these photos, and they are not macro shots, so depth of field / bokeh / focus blur is not relevant. Those photos are normal, everyday photos where the entire photo is expected to be in focus. But you can see the S7 camera in Auto mode locks onto a very small area and other large areas of the photos are blurry.
Shooting with the Note 7 in Pro mode (with all parameters still left on Auto) seems to minimize this problem. I have a feeling its because pro mode allows you to shoot in "Multi AF" and lets you do matrix metering. Can anyone confirm or deny this hypothesis?
Again, I am not talking about depth of field / aperture.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Nothing in those photos appears to be in focus. If I had to guess, you were too close when shooting. Do you have other pics of the same things which were take at a greater distance?

mecklaw said:
Nothing in those photos appears to be in focus. If I had to guess, you were too close when shooting. Do you have other pics of the same things which were take at a greater distance?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
ha. No, I wouldn't say I was too close. A normal distance away. And it was the same story even when shooting from far away.

Should be sharper. Looks as though the camera lens is faulty or you are causing some kind of shake. How were you holding the N7? The bike shots look as though you were reaching down and then angling the device, a very unsteady posture. Even holding the device too tightly can cause shake.

xxaarraa said:
The one pet peeve I had with the S7 camera (I had both the S7E and the S7 earlier this year) was that the plane of focus was so narrow that large parts of the photo would be out of focus or blurry (subject and where you tapped to focused would be spot on, but rest of image would often be hazy I AM NOT TALKING ABOUT THE BOKEH EFFECT PRODUCED BY SHALLOW DEPTH OF FIELD!). I recently got the Note 7 and it too seemed to suffer from the same problem. All this is shooting in Auto mode.
However, taking the same exact shot in Pro mode (with ISO, Shutter, WB and Focus still set to Auto,) the photos come out better! It's weird, everything set to auto in pro mode should be same as Auto mode, but its not. I think it's because Pro mode gives you the option to set Focus to "Multi AF" instead of "Center AF" as well as the option to do matrix metering.
Now my question is whether there is a way to set auto focus to Multi, and metering to Matrix in the Auto mode. Doesn't seem to be any menu options.
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I see your point. The aperture is fixed, inadjustable. However mine seems to be on the contrary. It has a deeper DOF in Auto mode than in Pro mode (Multi AF). I did test many shots and can confirm that. Whatever results, it 's still unsatisfying to me. I 'd like to have a deeper DOF (just like decreasing the Aperture in DSlR)

xxaarraa said:
I really appreciate you guys taking the time to add to this discussion, particularly kaylorRN. But I fear you are all missing the point entirely. My original question may have been poorly worded I suppose.
I am not talking about focus blur or depth of field. I am very familiar with that concept. What I am talking about is situations when you shoot for an entire image to be in focus, but large parts of the image are still out of focus. Best to show you. Look at these photos shot with my old S7:
Photo 1
Photo 2
Photo 3
Photo 4
There is no real 'subject' in these photos, and they are not macro shots, so depth of field / bokeh / focus blur is not relevant. Those photos are normal, everyday photos where the entire photo is expected to be in focus. But you can see the S7 camera in Auto mode locks onto a very small area and other large areas of the photos are blurry.
Shooting with the Note 7 in Pro mode (with all parameters still left on Auto) seems to minimize this problem. I have a feeling its because pro mode allows you to shoot in "Multi AF" and lets you do matrix metering. Can anyone confirm or deny this hypothesis?
Again, I am not talking about depth of field / aperture.
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I get what you are saying. I have noticed the same thing on my Note, and previous S7 Edge. I believe you are correct when you say that Auto Mode uses center focus, and Pro Mode uses multi-point. I normally use Pro Mode for just that reason.

How to get better picture quality on the M8?

Hello everyone,
I recently bought an M8 and I'm loving it so far, except for the camera.
I'm not running the stock M8 rom but the S.Team-JW-7.5.0 rom (HTC 10 to M8 port), so am I missing Duo camera features or something?
Do you guys have any tips or tricks to get better camera results? Both for video and photo.
I know the camera on the back is 4MP but maybe there are ways to get better pictures and video.
Thanks in advance.

This may help

Duo camera works fine on SROM. But Duo doesn't make the photos "better", it just enables the Duo effects like Ufocus, or Dimension Plus.
Hard to know what you mean by "better" unless you can be more specific. What exactly don't you like about the pics you've taken so far? Are they blurry, colors look off, too much glare, etc.?
Number of MP has little to do with image quality, especially if you are currently judging the images on the phone's screen (although cropping the pics, or looking at the pics on a monitor is a different story).
While more recent phones make it easier to take a good photo, very decent pics are quite possible on the M8. A lot can be done with technique. Despite what many folks would like to believe, a lot of photography is dependent on practice and technique, rather than hardware. A few tips:
1) Manually focus on a point (your subject) by tapping on the screen, and then press the capture button. Same goes with video. The video recording often has a tough time focusing on the subject automatically, so its often a good idea to force the focus first, then start recording.
2) Exposure (amount of light) will often change drastically, depending on the point of focus. So again, experiment by tapping on the screen, and you will see the image get lighter or darker.
3) This camera has a tough time with glare (washes out the whole frame), especially sunlight through a window, outdoors in the suns direction, etc. Changing your position, and what way the camera is facing can often (although not always) solve the problem, or at least improve it.
4) Tap on the camera settings, and see if manually forcing any of the parameters results in pics more to your liking. Although to be honest, I use the auto settings 99% of the time. But you can often get better results in certain situations (such as low light or night photos) by manually tweaking the settings. In particular, adjusting the exposure (EV) or saturation ("gear" icon>Image adjustments) may yield results more to your preference, if you find those default settings are not to your liking.

Big camera color and HDR improvements

In the latest update sony seemed to add some camera updates besides that audio setting.
(50.1.A.13.83)
It seems there is more color after you take the picture.
Also when HDR is on (manual mode), it seems it only does a hdr photo whenever it's needed, for example when im just taking a photo of an object it takes a single photo and does no hdr but whenever the background is brighter than the foreground it takes 3 photos and then combines them.
Anyone else noticed it?

Yes ! I was about to ask, if it's just me or the camera takes much better low light photos now ?
Before it was just bumping ISO to 12800 in real low light conditions, and the photo quality was like well, 1/ISO
Now not even the used ISO level is lower, or at least not bumped so quickly, but even the Superior Auto mode used for low light produces more detailed photos. And plain "Night mode" photos are really nice now.
Now I really enjoy my Xperia's camera (which I really hated before, tbh...)
Really, really good job, SONY !!

Question Whats wrong with A52s auto white balance

I would like to hear some opinions on this. I noticed some time ago that my videos had very inconsistent colors - there would be visible change of the balance when paning around or filming different objects to an extent that seems odd. After trying out and comparing I did realise that the main camera tends to very aggresively change the auto white balance, even if the scene is basically the same and the phone just slightly changes angle. It seems as it tries to desperately match white balance to every frame and its content (forgive my amateur vocabulary here), which to me seems strange and looking at other phones they just hold a much more consistent balance.
I attach 2 videos to show the issue - keep in mind that the issue isnt as visible always, as I tried very specific scenes/angles to show it.
When I use manual white balance it works great, so it kinda feels like a software issue (?)
Does anybody have a similar experience?

Would you mind trying to film a video in a similar scenario, but after disabling the option "scene optimizer" in the camera settings? I don't know if it does anything, but might be worth trying.

1812CE said:
Would you mind trying to film a video in a similar scenario, but after disabling the option "scene optimizer" in the camera settings? I don't know if it does anything, but might be worth trying.
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Thanks for the tipp, I'll try to compare it, although I dont think that scene optimizer affects videos

Unfortunately turning scene optimizer off doesnt change it (video attached).
It still feels like a software issue, but since nobody has yet confirmed a similar experience I'm starting to think it might be a problem with my unit. (Btw my A52s seems to have the Samsung image sensor not the Sony one)
Edit: or, I am exaggerating and this behaviour is actually not unusual - havent had a Samsung phone for a few years before my A52s

neat_wheat said:
Unfortunately turning scene optimizer off doesnt change it (video attached).
It still feels like a software issue, but since nobody has yet confirmed a similar experience I'm starting to think it might be a problem with my unit. (Btw my A52s seems to have the Samsung image sensor not the Sony one)
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I do not shoot a lot of video, but in the few videos I did shoot I never saw what is visible in your videos (Sony sensor). It is indeed very jarring. Do you only have it with footage of grass or just always?
In the Samsung camera app, you can go the "Professional Video" mode in the "More" section (so where macro etc. is), and then set whitebalance manually to e.g. 5500K and see whether it is more stable then. But like I said I do not shoot a lot of video, so I certainly do not have experience with that professional video mode.
Edit: I now see that you already mention manual whitebalance yourself. So are there disadvantages to just using professional video mode all the time then?

sanderbos said:
(...)
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It definitely gets more visible in outside scenes, more so if there is a lot of green in the frame - indoors and with artificial light it definitely is hard to spot. As I mentioned above it feels like it tries to match the balance to the content or objects of/in the frame, instead of keeping a consistent balance. I had a video where I stuck my hand in and out of the frame and it would drastically change the whole color to match the hand it seemed (thinking about it, the background was grass also, so ...).
Pro mode is a solution, it's just that I'm not a fan of setting the balance everytime I take a video or photo - and the balance ofc affects photos in the same way, as 2 photos of basically the same scene might have drastically different WB.
Nevertheless thanks a lot for your input - I also very much enjoyed your detailed instructions for Gcam usage

neat_wheat said:
Pro mode is a solution, it's just that I'm not a fan of setting the balance everytime I take a video or photo - and the balance ofc affects photos in the same way, as 2 photos of basically the same scene might have drastically different WB.
Nevertheless thanks a lot for your input - I also very much enjoyed your detailed instructions for Gcam usage
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You would not have to set it every time (probably). In the Samsung camera app I have dragged the Pro Photo (not video) mode to the 'main bar' (from the more menu you can hold and drag items in and out of the main bar for quick access), with a changed fixed ISO (for shooting of fast action scenes), and you set it once and the camera app will remember that setting forever. And I think for all outside scenes around 5600K WB will work fine (it's not like the A52s is a high quality video machine anyway).
I didn't want to bring up gcam because I had no idea whether that would make a difference, but now that you brought it up, does that have the same whitebalance issues for you (in video)?

sanderbos said:
(...). And I think for all outside scenes around 5600K WB will work fine (it's not like the A52s is a high quality video machine anyway).
I didn't want to bring up gcam because I had no idea whether that would make a difference, but now that you brought it up, does that have the same whitebalance issues for you (in video)?
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I meant I would have to set it again for every scene, but you are right, something like 5600 would probably be okay for most outdoor stuff. And with rearranging the icons it wouldnt be such a hassle. I'll try that out for daily use, thanks!
I am using BSG gcam also, because I find the nightmode drastically better but unfortunately the balance issue is the same, so I guess the balance gets set on system level. I also tried gcam awb but it always seems to be a bit off no matter the config - but I prefer the stock app for daylight anyway (apart from the wb)