Develop Bugs

[Q] OTG Charge + USB Host Plug and Unplug Timur Alternative

Hello all,
I have a nexus 7 2013 and I am looking for a kernel that supports otg plus charge. Now, I know elemental x (by flar2) and a few others have this but the ones I have found do not support hot swap, or unplug and replug without rebooting. I am pretty sure Timurs kernel supports this but he wants $36 to buy it and I would rather not spend the money without trying it out first. Specifically, I have a fixed in-car installation and a febon100 UVC video grabber to display a backup camera. When the car shuts off, the febon will be disconnected from the usb side of the nexus, and the only way to reconnect it is to reboot the tablet with power connected. Anyone have any ideas? Thanks for the help.

Ok so I figured part of it out. After the device looses and regains power, these two commands simulate the usb disconnect and reconnect and seems to work (only tried it a couple times)...
Code:
echo "2-0:1.0" > /sys/bus/usb/drivers/hub/unbind
echo "2-0:1.0" > /sys/bus/usb/drivers/hub/bind
However, I have another issue. I am using the elementalx kernel on android 4.4.4 (currently on Carbon rom but have tried stock and other roms as well with same outcome). When the tablet reboots with the otg cable connected, it does not charge when it first starts up. To charge it, I have to physically unplug and replug the cord in the nexus. Any ideas?

bigc9731 said:
Ok so I figured part of it out. After the device looses and regains power, these two commands simulate the usb disconnect and reconnect and seems to work (only tried it a couple times)...
Code:
echo "2-0:1.0" > /sys/bus/usb/drivers/hub/unbind
echo "2-0:1.0" > /sys/bus/usb/drivers/hub/bind
However, I have another issue. I am using the elementalx kernel on android 4.4.4 (currently on Carbon rom but have tried stock and other roms as well with same outcome). When the tablet reboots with the otg cable connected, it does not charge when it first starts up. To charge it, I have to physically unplug and replug the cord in the nexus. Any ideas?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
you find a fix for this? i will try that command you posted but i need it to run at startup automatically if it works.

quicksilvr2006 said:
you find a fix for this? i will try that command you posted but i need it to run at startup automatically if it works.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Just use tasker to run the commands at startup...

Does this set of command still work with lollipop? I just tried a few times and it seems to have made no difference.
Thanks in advance!

Yeah im in the same boat. Soooooo many problems with this ****ty tablet. Knew i should have installed an iPad. They said this is the 'best' of android. It's ****ing terrible. People who are thinking of installing an android into your car? A word of advise. Dont do it.
-guy who has worked on nexus 7 2012, AND 2013 car install for more than a year.

jimmng said:
Yeah im in the same boat. Soooooo many problems with this ****ty tablet. Knew i should have installed an iPad. They said this is the 'best' of android. It's ****ing terrible. People who are thinking of installing an android into your car? A word of advise. Dont do it.
-guy who has worked on nexus 7 2012, AND 2013 car install for more than a year.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Do you feel better now?
Sent from my LG-D850 using XDA Free mobile app

It's been almost a year any way to accomplish charging without having to physically unplug the OTG and plug it back in. Im have timurs kernel but I want to use elemental so I can use marshmallow. Timur accomplished it somehow. Someone has to know how.

Qi Wireless Charging
samt3 said:
It's been almost a year any way to accomplish charging without having to physically unplug the OTG and plug it back in.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It is actually trivially easy to accomplish - on any kernel - it is called Qi Wireless Charging.

Android 6.0.1 kernel Quanta-V7-Flo with 'USB Host Mode Charging'
samt3 said:
It's been almost a year any way to accomplish charging without having to physically unplug the OTG and plug it back in. Im have timurs kernel but I want to use elemental so I can use marshmallow. Timur accomplished it somehow. Someone has to know how.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Test results for Android 6.0.1 Stock + Kernel 'Quanta-V7-Flo' with active 'USB Host Mode Charging' and inactive 'fast charging' (N7 is only is use when its connected to the USB Power):
Ampere values checked with one of the cheap 'USB Charger Doctor Voltage Current Meter Mobile Battery Tester':
0.45 A for N7 only
0.61 A for N7 + USB Ethernet adapter
I don't use the N7 in a car setup but this should be important for such setups:
-If the USB Y cable is connected before powering on the N7, the USB device was usable in Android after startup without need for reconnecting the USB cable
-If the USB was unplugged and reconnected the device, it was usable in Android
-Important: If the N7 goes to sleep, it can't recover the USB charging and USB devices after waking. You should set the display timeout to always on, which is right for a car setup or am I'm wrong?
I'm happy! :good:

I tried quanta. It does work except for on initial boot. Have to unplug and plug it back in to charge. Then it works fine turning the key on and off for power. However it doesn't mount the OTG devices again without unplugging it and plugging it back in.
Edit: I also have another problem was at work and didn't have time to add it. But my Nexus thinks it's still charging after disconnecting it from power supply through the OTG cable. When I turn the key off it quits charging for about 1 second then switch's back to saying it's charging again and continues to say it's charging even after cycling the key on and off. Only way to fix it is to disconnect the OTG straight from the tablet and plug it back in or boot it into recovery then back to system. Has done this thru multiple roms and kernels. Only kernel it doesn't do it on is Quanta. The thing is it didn't use to do it at all no matter what rom or kernel I was using. I even went as far as to change the charging port board cause I had another one in a old junk Nexus I have and still didn't fix it.

samt3 said:
I tried quanta. It does work except for on initial boot. Have to unplug and plug it back in to charge. Then it works fine turning the key on and off for power. However it doesn't mount the OTG devices again without unplugging it and plugging it back in.
Edit: I also have another problem was at work and didn't have time to add it. But my Nexus thinks it's still charging after disconnecting it from power supply through the OTG cable. When I turn the key off it quits charging for about 1 second then switch's back to saying it's charging again and continues to say it's charging even after cycling the key on and off. Only way to fix it is to disconnect the OTG straight from the tablet and plug it back in or boot it into recovery then back to system. Has done this thru multiple roms and kernels. Only kernel it doesn't do it on is Quanta. The thing is it didn't use to do it at all no matter what rom or kernel I was using. I even went as far as to change the charging port board cause I had another one in a old junk Nexus I have and still didn't fix it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Did you try the glitch kernel?

0xcafebabe said:
Did you try the glitch kernel?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've used it before but not on my current setup.

Assuming one of these kernels provides OTG + Fast Charging, what are the options for the Power-Down + Deep Sleep, then Power-Up + Wake?

Carperformance.se Uconnect Android system help.

I am hoping I can find some help in here with a couple problems I am running into on this system that would make it so much better to me.
The system is basically an Android box utilizing the touch screen and monitor of my Uconnect 8.4 head unit. The naming in the settings is rk3188 and is running on KitKat 4.4.4, so it is some variant of the Android TV boxes. If there are other specs or info that are needed to help in possibly fixing my issues please let me know.
Issue 1: although not major, there is no option to have OK Google from any screen. Having this option for a car system is obviously something helpful. In the settings of the Google App trying to access the menu for OK Google detection doesn't work, so I can't even get to the screen where that option lives. I have the most up to date version of Google App and Google Play Services. I have Google searched on ways to fix this but nothing has brought that ability up. I know Android version 4.4.4 was capable of this. There was another app that utilized Googles voice engine and allowed this function but Google made him stop using their servers and killed that as an option.
Issue 2: this is the biggest bother to me and I could not find anything even related to what's happening in my searches. The system comes loaded with some apps and using Launcher3 for its front end, it has big buttons but offers almost no ability to customize it. The bottom row has apps that you cannot switch out to anything else, and 3 of them I will never be using. The system works but is not as nice as it could look or function. The obvious answer is to use a different launcher which is where the problem arises. I have tried to use Nova and Apex so far with the same very frustrating outcome. After the install everything is great, I can set the screen up to look amazing and add icons and functionality that really make it a great experience. So everything is working lovely then I shut my truck off and go do whatever. The next time I come back I start the truck up everything loads fine, the new launcher and everything I did to it is working just as expected until about 5 minutes in the screen goes black for a second and then the system goes through a factory reset. Really? Are you kidding me? The first couple times I thought maybe I hit something because I hadn't fully put my truck back together but after playing with it more and having the system factory reset 5 other times I have concluded it is related to changing the launcher. I tried Nova first, then I tried Apex with the same outcome and same sequence of events. Obviously it's annoying everytime testing this because updating and reentering my info everytime just to try the launcher again is time consuming. The last test the only thing I did was a different launcher so that has to be it, but why and how can I fix it?
If anyone has any clue how using a different launcher would cause a factory reset to happen please help me out. Or if there is anything I can do to this system to prevent that. My last resort thought would be to root it but I read someone else who has this system that rooting it caused screen layout issues and made things go 90 degrees off? The loaded apps in the system have touch screen calibration and screen resizing which might be necessary for this to function with the monitor.
Thanks for any help.

I spoke with someone else that has the system and they are not having any issues with running a different launcher so something happen to my particular device. I contacted the company and they will be getting me the firmware to refresh it and hopefully that fixes the resetting issue.

i am looking to get this also. I am very curious how you like the device - it looks great though a bit out of date. Waze & email should work well. How much storage does it have? Can you add a sd card or something?

RichTJ99 said:
i am looking to get this also. I am very curious how you like the device - it looks great though a bit out of date. Waze & email should work well. How much storage does it have? Can you add a sd card or something?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm getting a new unit sent out, it seems there are 2 versions and for whatever reason mine wouldn't let me customize the launcher.
But even though it's outdated, every app I tried worked just fine, they still install the latest versions. The system has 8gb of on board storage and a microSD card slot that is mainly for loading maps for offline navigation. I think you can still access it for other uses, but they have a better option for that. There is a USB input for flash drives or external drives. I tried my 2TB external drive on it and it accessed my movies fine from it.

How did you get it installed? Who?

got any pics?

Actually I would be interested in this too, I have an Alfa Romeo and the Uconnect 6.5 (european version) which isn't that great, it would be nice to attach a sort of box with ARM hardware running on Android and using the display and touch of the existing Uconnect. The question is, how this can be done?

http://www.dodgedurango.net/forums/.../24632-android-phone-uconnect-8-4-screen.html
I would check out this thread. It has two videos that walk you through the entire process - great info!

I also bought this latest Android system V4 2 weeks ago. Auto launcher pro app is very good working. At the moment there is a issue with the system time, which is not correctly synchronized with gps time. Carperformance Team is working on a fix for that. How can I get root Access for this Android 7 System?

Diabollon said:
I also bought this latest Android system V4 2 weeks ago. Auto launcher pro app is very good working. At the moment there is a issue with the system time, which is not correctly synchronized with gps time. Carperformance Team is working on a fix for that. How can I get root Access for this Android 7 System?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
glad to hear i'm not going crazy with the clock but there is an issue.
I just bought and installed a V4 a couple weeks back too.
i must have left a loose connection cause i keep having to recall the touchscreen for android. I half-arsed the install cause we were leaving for a 2k mile roadtrip the next day- need to take it apart and do it right. Luckily you can connect a usb mouse in to trigger the calibration app.
id also love root- at the moment im trying to figure out if the one usb port is safe to connect an A to A usb cable into to get ADB. apparently on some versions of nvida sheild, you can. If they provide a firmware update for the clock fix then maybe that gets us an image to futz with for root.
a keyboard also works in teh usb port and i've tried a handful of key combos during boot to get to recovery but haven't stumbled on it yet.
I'll post back if i find anything

michaelk said:
glad to hear i'm not going crazy with the clock but there is an issue.
I just bought and installed a V4 a couple weeks back too.
i must have left a loose connection cause i keep having to recall the touchscreen for android. I half-arsed the install cause we were leaving for a 2k mile roadtrip the next day- need to take it apart and do it right. Luckily you can connect a usb mouse in to trigger the calibration app.
id also love root- at the moment im trying to figure out if the one usb port is safe to connect an A to A usb cable into to get ADB. apparently on some versions of nvida sheild, you can. If they provide a firmware update for the clock fix then maybe that gets us an image to futz with for root.
a keyboard also works in teh usb port and i've tried a handful of key combos during boot to get to recovery but haven't stumbled on it yet.
I'll post back if i find anything
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi @michaelk
Good to hear that I am not alone here with this special system V4. Except for the issue with the system time and no root access, I am fully satisfied so far. I hope to fix it soon. If we had root access then we could solve this issue with the system time with some time apps ourselves.
Thank you for your experiences.
Best regards
Diabollon

wiring harness investigation
so played around some today.
I've got an issue where I need to recalibrate the screen almost every time I boot. it seems the box (or card added to the radio?) forgets things and only works the bottom right corner and also seems to rotate 90 degrees at boot. The end result is unusable screen. I think carperformance is just a reseller because of their response. They're friendly and reply quickly but are really unable to help. The first answer was just randomly fiddle with screen and try to find calibrate setting and reboot- that proved impossible and on my own I discovered a 6 dollar USB mouse from the Walmart could be used to navigate to the calibrate app. When I inquired again when it got more frequent they basically said it's not normal and offered no help except to adjust a personalization setting to run calibrate on boot- that only works once that I can figure (might be related to weird time bug)- so I settled on having tasker run calibrate on each boot. I wonder if there is a battery in the box that needs changing but the warranty sticker keeps me out for not- might add an external battery to keep it alive for a longer time to minimize the rebooting
Anyway took everything apart today to double-check and can't find any connection issues. I traced the harness a bit to try and understand a little and basically, the skinny cables run the daughterboard to snag the screen output and the touchscreen input. But i wanted to figure out what is tapped from the radio harness to the large white plug on the box and see if anything going on their .
DISCLAIMER- I NEED TO CONFIRM (it was hot - laughing) but basically seems what is tapped in radio harness is:
1) power and ground also
2) L&R aux audio signal- interesting here is they tapped a single ground (physically next to the right signal) for common. Earlier i had the RAX hack and their harness used a ground for each L&R and their aux input worked all the time without the little plugin shunt thing to trick aux input. When i dug some more and found a pin diagram from mopar I found that the 'left' ground is actually labeled "aux audio device detect signal" I need to play some more to see what happens but my guess is if we put a switch on that to short it to ground then the aux would just work to avoid the hokey plug.
3) Here's the fun- holding the screen to flip inputs could be the daughterboard running things. BUT since it also reacts to the left steering wheel button pack and switches inputs itself when you need the reverse cam- i figured it reads the can bus. and sure enough, it looks like it taps CAN IHS (+) and CAN IHS (-). Very cool that it would get into the whole bus and read anything- BUT since there are other FCA vehicles that don't auto-switch inputs on revers and they have alternate connections it seems the real dev is not involved to update things to sniff for other reverse signals. Reading around here- seems that there is probably a custom serial port someplace in the box that reads this and there's probably no documentation for us to do anything ourselves. But one can hope...
---------- Post added at 06:12 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:07 PM ----------
michaelk said:
glad to hear i'm not going crazy with the clock but there is an issue.
I just bought and installed a V4 a couple weeks back too.
i must have left a loose connection cause i keep having to recall the touchscreen for android. I half-arsed the install cause we were leaving for a 2k mile roadtrip the next day- need to take it apart and do it right. Luckily you can connect a usb mouse in to trigger the calibration app.
id also love root- at the moment im trying to figure out if the one usb port is safe to connect an A to A usb cable into to get ADB. apparently on some versions of nvida sheild, you can. If they provide a firmware update for the clock fix then maybe that gets us an image to futz with for root.
a keyboard also works in teh usb port and i've tried a handful of key combos during boot to get to recovery but haven't stumbled on it yet.
I'll post back if i find anything
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So the spec for the chipset for the V4 says it can handle an OTG port and a couple (maybe 3?) other USB ports. Obviously, the box only has the one USB A port visible on the pigtail. I wish we could get in the box and look for a header for the OTG port to help rooting but.... the darn warranty sticker.
on the FCA/Dodge side of things- I have a Durango with a USB port and SD card reader in the dash (USB Media "Hub" Apparently, FCA uses USB Mini B connectors to interconnect all the ports and the radio. They use latching connectors that are keyed but if you undo them there's a standard USB mini B in there. They do some odd male/female things so you have to pay attention to where you undo cables, but bottom line you can undo the connector on the back of the dash's USB port and stuff a USB mini B female on it and connect it to whatever host device you want.
I first tried an old laptop in case there's anything weird going on. My Dash "Hub" actually has 2 mini-B connectors and a multipin auto harness. Without the harness when you connect it to windows it sees a USB Hub, but the USB port was still dead. So I assumed it needs power from the harness on the back of the dash hub and connected that. UP popped up a USB mass storage device which I believe is the SD card reader- didn't get around to confirming and then the USB port also comes to life. Knowing that it was safe at that point I connected it to the USB A Host port on the box and presto chango now I have the in-dash port connected to the android tv box without any exposed wiring.
Connected the "android auto dongle" through the cars USB port and that works perfectly. I ordered a used 2 USB dash hub from eBay (later model years have 2 and will see what that does. The pictures of that also show the 2 mini B ports- I'll play some more when I get that. I'm not sure what is in those dongles but from the other folks hacking android auto into older models (by using newer radios) apparently, one port works for android auto and the other doesn't. The scuttle is its a body module programming thing but I wonder if maybe there's something physical in there and so the dongle won't be necessary any longer with the new hub? My other thought is if the two USB min B jacks allow you to connect to 2 different hosts- I would try one on the original Uconnect (in case I ever need to update the software) and the other for the android TV box.
So apparently the android tv box handles hubs just fine. As I mentioned earlier it handles a mouse or USB keyboard fine. Also, I played around and connected my hotspot by USB instead of wifi so the device sees it as a modem and that works just fine- so I assume a USB modem works out of the box too. (again odd if that works that carperformance sells a hotspot and not USB modem- like they don't know what the box can do)

I disassembled my display 2 times until it worked. After the first start, I had a black screen. I thought that was it... After 3 times it finally worked. I also had a cable on the plug which has easily resolved. I think you will also have a loose contact somewhere. One time I also had the display calibration gone. Then I connected my old usb keyboard and could then start the display calibration. I reset the system before. So far, the system works without problems. I also have a passive 4-way usb hub to connect.
I have already connected cables for the frontcam but have not yet moved into the engine compartment.
In the video tutorial of Carperformance, you can see when you switch to drive, the display then changes to the frontcam or signal from the cam, but the display does not change to the Frontcam signal with me.
Do you have with you the signal on the display of the camera when switching to drive?

Adw2 = bad mix
Went back and forth many times in email and turns out my calibration issue was probably all ADW2 launcher, guess it conflicts with whatever app they use to communicate with the display.
in the process of troubleshooting I got the update zip for the current version but I don't think those have recovery partition in there and so can't help root? I need to read some more.
I've ripped everything apart like 12 times with the screen, so that my front cam is not connected right now. For the brief time I had it, it was connected to one of the smaller video in pin connectors and don't think it worked in drive by itself, but can't really say for certain. I think certain models can't get the canbus command to see reverse and if I understand they connect in to the video in on the main connector and then use a point on the car that is energized to trigger the switch on that connection. If your adventurous they seem to have to flip a dip also. I think it's the Cherokees or maybe grand Cherokee so maybe Google their thread's? This site gives connector pin outs
http://connectors.dcctools.com/home.htm
There might be a lead for the drive on your shifter if lucky. I think I read the reverse shoulder comes from a body control box in the passenger wheel well?
Also they're super friendly and never wrong when you email but they can be brief. So you could ask if there's a dipswitch to flip to enable auto switching one of the inputs. Hec maybe we should just ask for a table of where the dips do...
(Sorry for any typos... Will try to edit later)

Supposedly it is enough to connect the extra input cable for DVD or CMMB. That answered me Carperformance. Before, I had no external input cable connected. That's why no signal came. The OEM rearcam works flawlessly.

Also, I forgot, they have a workaround for the clock bug
For the clock there is a fix
https://www.youtube.com/watchv=3OEEbah53QY&t=1s

michaelk said:
Also, I forgot, they have a workaround for the clock bug
For the clock there is a fix
https://www.youtube.com/watchv=3OEEbah53QY&t=1s
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Unfortunately it's not available.

Diabollon said:
Unfortunately it's not available.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
try this-
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3OEEbah53QY&t=1s

michaelk said:
try this-
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3OEEbah53QY&t=1s
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's a cheaper fix but so no solution. Carperformance should offer a software update with root access. Then we would be satisfied. We should expect it for the money.
My frontcam is working now good.
You already tried Android auto? Which USB dongle do you use? Do you need a special app for this?
My China usb dongle does not want to connect properly with my oneplus 6T.
Edit:
Android auto is working with Pumpkin USB dongle and autoplaybox app. The noname China scrap goes back to shop.
The time fix is working until now also. Thanks for this info. The carperformance, they wrote or informed the affected people who ordered it. I did not get any info.

Diabollon said:
...
My frontcam is working now good.
...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
besides powering your camera and connecting the yellow RCA video signal did you have to do anything else?
something with the red signal wire maybe?
I cant consistently get a signal on my front cam and not sure if the camera is bad or my setup
---------- Post added at 12:55 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:42 PM ----------
few other notes for others-
FCA "aux audio device detect signal" harness line is actually normally closed (I think shorted to ground)- if you break the connection the oew radio flips right to aux in. make the connection again and it flips back to previous input.
the in dash usb port is infact a powered hub. I originally had a usb + SD card combo and replaced it with 2 usb port and works fine. FCA uses mini b connections to it- just use a usb a to mini b cable to connect it to the android auto box and your indash usb port(s) will work on android auto (And provide more watts to charge your stuff). oddly either dahs hub has a second usb mini b connector that i played around with a little but never could figure out what it does
more can bus fun! - i updated the dongle firmware on the android auto dongle sold direct from carperforance and now it has a beta feature to map buttons. somehow it seems to be sniffing the canbus through the android tv box. it has arrow keys, numbers, enter, etc and you use the app to select the input to assign then you press the same button on the car twice- it sniffs the signal and assignes it. I My durango has the button packs on the steering wheel and i was able to assign up, down, left, right and get it to have the android auto respond. Need to play more but i think it actually goes android wide. For example i think the down button on my steering wheel was sending page down to the chrome browser i had open on the box. Pretty cool stuff if they expand that.

Android Auto not working for anyone as of yesterday?

Just wondering if Android Auto for connected car displays stopped working for anyone as of yesterday or today. I'm skeptical of another Google "back end experiment" that caused it to stop working. I have a Ford with Sync 3
Symptom: Plug phone into car, nothing happens. Phone only charges and will even say USB is connected.
I've done some basic and partially in depth trouble shooting. It most likely couldn't be caused by any updates on Car infotainment system or my Phone because it has been working (unless there was a back end play services update that was pushed out).
From the obvious to less obvious:
-Tried rebooting phone and restarted car
-Tried using a different USB A to C cable (Anker ones have worked perfectly for me)
-Tried using secondary USB port in car
-Tested phones ability to connect to a PC and transfer data, no issue
-Threw music onto a USB flash drive and plugged it into car, no issue
-Tried turning on USB debugging on phone, no change (not sure if this would have even helped in first place).
I'm at a loss right now. It does not make any sense.
I do not have another android phone to try or an iPhone to test CarPlay unfortunately.

Literally had the same thing happen to me on Sync 3 last week. I just deleted the car from the Android Auto app and deleted the phone from Sync 3. After that I was able to use Android Auto again after going through the setup prompts. No issues since.

Works fine for me on my 2018 silverado

no issues on 2017 Sierra

Here it works perfectly

bigblueshock said:
Just wondering if Android Auto for connected car displays stopped working for anyone as of yesterday or today. I'm skeptical of another Google "back end experiment" that caused it to stop working. I have a Ford with Sync 3
Symptom: Plug phone into car, nothing happens. Phone only charges and will even say USB is connected.
I've done some basic and partially in depth trouble shooting. It most likely couldn't be caused by any updates on Car infotainment system or my Phone because it has been working (unless there was a back end play services update that was pushed out).
From the obvious to less obvious:
-Tried rebooting phone and restarted car
-Tried using a different USB A to C cable (Anker ones have worked perfectly for me)
-Tried using secondary USB port in car
-Tested phones ability to connect to a PC and transfer data, no issue
-Threw music onto a USB flash drive and plugged it into car, no issue
-Tried turning on USB debugging on phone, no change (not sure if this would have even helped in first place).
I'm at a loss right now. It does not make any sense.
I do not have another android phone to try or an iPhone to test CarPlay unfortunately.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
happens to me every 3-6 months.
Swapping out the cable resolved it every time.

ya dude you need to try some different cables. that should always be your first step if there have been no updates.

Thanks for the replies. I deleted and unpaired AA from my phone and my car with no luck.
I actually had my coworker who has a Pixel 2 XL plug his phone in to my car. He had no issues at all even after multiple tries. Mine still wont connect. We're both on Pie with same security patch level. Did try tried Multiple new cables and still no luck (the anker high quality ones).
I found this thread incase it starts happening to anyone...
https://productforums.google.com/fo.../PWBrDUXzR4o;context-place=forum/android-auto
Something I picked off of that topic was some USB patches/features that went in to effect between Pie release and last month security patch.
I may just wait a month. Maybe another security patch which tweaks USB or 9.1 will drop fixing my issue. We shall see. At least I know its not my car or my cables.

Go into apps and check your "play services" versions between the two phones. Google controls a lot of **** through that app

Or just try to clear your usb port

Thanks for the replies. After the October patch I'm back up and running.
Lack of communication between departments at Google baffles my mind.

Question Android Auto Issue

Does anyone know why I'm having android auto issues? When I connect my phone, it just loops connecting and disconnecting android auto over and over, and randomly will decide to connect after some amount of time or rebooting the phone. Just to clarify, once it connects it stays connected, so it's just an issue with the initialization.
It is not the cable, I've used it with my Galaxy for a while and even tried others. This issue was also present before and after rooting so I know it's not that. This was also present on the OP9 non-pro I tried. I also tried switching the default USB mode to File Transfer and PTP with no improvement.
Thanks guys!

Hi, there is a problem with the 1+9 pro, not yet fixed in Oxygen OS 11.2.5.5.LE15BA.
Here is a thread about it, and a work-around that works for me,
but not for everyone it seems.
Standard power charging going on and off. Can't use Android Auto [work-around]
Work-around : https://forum.xda-developers.com/t/standard-power-charging-going-on-and-off-cant-use-android-auto-work-around.4258043/post-84822769 I'm having a problem when I plug my phone into my car usb-a for charging and Android Auto (AA)...
forum.xda-developers.com

clavelm80 said:
Hi, there is a problem with the 1+9 pro, not yet fixed in Oxygen OS 11.2.5.5.LE15BA.
Here is a thread about it, and a work-around that works for me,
but not for everyone it seems.
Standard power charging going on and off. Can't use Android Auto [work-around]
Work-around : https://forum.xda-developers.com/t/standard-power-charging-going-on-and-off-cant-use-android-auto-work-around.4258043/post-84822769 I'm having a problem when I plug my phone into my car usb-a for charging and Android Auto (AA)...
forum.xda-developers.com
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Glad to know it's OP and not my phone. I'm confident the cable isn't the issue. In terms of your workaround, why not just set PTP as default in developer settings? What's different about setting it yourself?

dkcats3 said:
Glad to know it's OP and not my phone. I'm confident the cable isn't the issue. In terms of your workaround, why not just set PTP as default in developer settings? What's different about setting it yourself?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
First, choosing PTP or "data transfer" does the trick. When the connection to AA is stable, the phone goes back to "only charging" .
Secondly, I did not try "extensively" setting a default connection mode other than charging in dev options when looking for a work-around.
Some said it works for them (one 1+ forum) but when I tried it, it didn't for me. I did not try to set it, reboot, try, set another, reboot. I was looking for something better so I've skipped it and my actual work-around is okay for me.
Thirdly, I don't like to let a connection access to the data of my phone without having to unlock it.

Question Xiaomi Poco F3 - Android Auto

Hello guys!
I have a Poco F3 with the newest android and EMUI. I wanted to connect it with my car and it didnt work. After i plugged in my usb cable nothing happened. Already done more settings options to work but it still do not work.
The car is 2017. skoda octavia with active smartlink.
I hope so much if some of you can help me.

Rubaj said:
Hello guys!
I have a Poco F3 with the newest android and EMUI. I wanted to connect it with my car and it didnt work. After i plugged in my usb cable nothing happened. Already done more settings options to work but it still do not work.
The car is 2017. skoda octavia with active smartlink.
I hope so much if some of you can help me.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Have you tried going to settings; security; permissions; auto start and from there make sure android auto is set to auto start (and any other related apps you may find)
EDIT: also might want to make sure battery saver is disabled for android auto, but shouldn't make a difference

Rubaj said:
Hello guys!
I have a Poco F3 with the newest android and EMUI. I wanted to connect it with my car and it didnt work. After i plugged in my usb cable nothing happened. Already done more settings options to work but it still do not work.
The car is 2017. skoda octavia with active smartlink.
I hope so much if some of you can help me.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's not about the car or software but instead it seems like it's the USB technology ruining it for MIUI devices. Try another cable that's preferably older that uses USB 2.0. If you can't find any, invest in a USB 2.0 hub and your problem should be solved. Haven't found any other solution yet. Good luck!

You can also go into developer options usb default configuration and play with that try file transfer

Just to let you know that my seat (uses the same discover_media head unit as the skoda) works perfectly fine with the cable that came with the Poco F3. Just plug and play, nothing more
I'm using the stock ROM, locked bootloader.