[final update 10/11/2012]
I have moved to the HTC One X you can see my photo samples from the One X here and here
You can find much more impressive photos posted by One X users in this thread
so I've concluded a similar guide for the One X is not really needed
[last updated 11/12/2011]
3.12.405.1 Update:
. Introduces new scenes options: portrait, landscape, action, closeup, backlight, beach, snow, candlelight and low light.
It attempts to auto select settings based on the scenario of choice, image quality remains bad because it locks the sharpness setting to 0, thankfully with scenes>auto you can override, control sharpness and follow this guide
. Improved quality: color treatment, face detection, auto focus and low light
. Low light video recording @30Fps is back, its achievable by using the low exposure trick
. For root users Panorama mode can be enabled here>>
2.36.405.8_R Update:
. Introduces improved sharpness algorithm, sharpness -1 is now acceptable
. new colors treatment, tries to extract more colors and adds some sort of soft bloom, sometime gives unreal results and colored grain, can't be disabled
. higher 720p recording video/audio bit rate
. a new option called auto enhance which blurs noise in the image at the cost of details, fortunately it can be disabled
. low light video recording 30fps is no longer achievable using the low exposure trick, you can still achieve better fps using this trick but not full fps
1.72.405.3_R2 Update:
. improve system performance and camera feature enhancements
. camera interface is faster after the update and 720p recording freeze bug is fixed
A lot of people even reviewers have been complaining about the camera quality, however the Desire HD boosts a good 8 mega pixels senor, you can achieve great results if you know your way around it.
I will start this guide by showing some tasty examples since this thread is all about photo quality please don't complain about photo sizes as its meant to be examined.
The guide is intended for the stock HTC camera app, although the general guidelines can apply to any other camera app.
The following is a quick version of this guide, each setting is later explored in details.
Manually set your focus, wait for the focus signal to turn green, keep your hand steady until the shot is taken (keep it till the preview appears)
Make sure the camera protection glass is wiped clean
To fix image quality: Disable digital sharpness so it’s set to -2 or reduce it to -1 if you feel its too soft but never sharpness 0, you can later increase sharpness using external apps
To fix the video recording freezes: update to firmware 1.72 or above, also make sure no apps are busy in the background (i.e. skype)
To fix low light bad video FPS: reduce the exposure setting to -2, it will go up to 30fps, use the flash to boost the brightness back
To fix the green tint caused by the flash: set white balance to Fluorescent
To fix the changing colors while recording video indoors: set the white balance manualy. Auto is good during daylight but jumpy indoors
Higher ISO will always boost the camera available light, so higher ISO improves frame rate, reduces motion blur and reveals more detail in darkness. However keep in mind higher ISO will reduce image quality since it introduces noise to the image. Auto ISO is pretty smart
If your photo is washed out, use the auto enhance effect from the gallery to fix levels and color balance, your photo will stay at 8MP, the enhanced photo will be saved as a new file
Taken at 8 mega pixels, sharpness -2, everything else is default Contrast/exposure/saturation 0, ISO auto, White balance auto and Flash is off.
These are from first attempt and untouched It’s just Flickr resizing them. Flickr limits the size to 1k.
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Larger: http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/sets/72157625450976523/
more samples here: HTC Desire HD group on Flickr
As you can see these photos look great and natural, two things the Desire HD camera excels at, color reproduction and marco shots which works automatically as long as you set your focus correctly.
The main issue we need to tackle with the camera is the sharpness setting.
Image adjustments: Sharpness
+1 +2: Increases noise reduction and sharpness, however it doesn’t appear to change much from the default, the screen displays more sharpness but when you examine the photo taken there is little difference
0: Default value, in reality it applies aggressive noise reduction and sharpness
-1: Reduces noise reduction and sharpness.
-2: Disables noise reduction and sharpness completely
At default this setting is set at 0 with four other options (-2, -1, 0, +1, +2) so effectively the default sharpness is actually set at 2.
Like other cameras, at first it attempts to reduce noise by blurring out fine detail and then attempts to restore detail by sharpening edges.
However it’s all very over done so it introduces lots of blur and artifacts, even down scaling the image by half leaves it looking unnatural.
As you can see its pretty bad job at default, it’s a good thing we have the option to reduce it or turn it off, despite being a little soft-2 looks the most natural and has the most detail.
Recommendation: disable it at -2 so you capture the pure image taken as by the camera sensor, despite looking a little soft at full scale it’s still a lot of pixels at 8MP so it will look great when scaled like on the phone screen, TV, websites like Flickr or even print.
If you want a little more sharpness you can extract more detail by sharpening it in Photoshop, you can also sharpen it using an app like PicSay pro which is pretty good but sadly downscales it to 1MP.
By the way some of the effects in the gallery can improve definition and sharpness, more on this later.
Otherwise If you must have some sharpness in the image and willing to sacrifice some image quality you can set it at -1 which is less aggressive. But as you can see above even with -1 detail are getting lost.
Keep in mind taking a photo with the default sharpness applied will leave little choice to fix it later, since the image details are already tempered with.
Image adjustments: Contrast, Saturation, Exposure
Contrast: controls the levels between black and white, reducing it will reveal more detail in dark areas but at the loss of overall definition.
Saturation: controls the richness of colors, increasing it can reveal more grain.
Exposure: controls brightness, you increase the brightness but risk over exposing an area.
This setting appears to have an affect on the camera speed and frame rate, reducing it will increase frame rate at low light, -2 it can achieve up to 30fps at low light.
Recommendation: leave them at default 0 which is well balanced, unless you see a need to adjust your photo.
White balance
White balance enables the camera to capture colors more accurately by adjusting to your current lighting
environment. White balance settings include: Auto, Incandescent, Fluorescent, Daylight, and Cloudy.
Recommendation: leave it at auto it does a good job, unless your photo appears wrong in the viewfinder.
You can use Fluorescent to fix the yellow colors hue caused by using the Flash.
If you are filming a video indoors set it manually since it’s a little jumpy.
Focus
Auto simply sets the focus at the center of the screen whenever you move the camera, you can still pick your focus even with auto focus engaged.
If you want properly focused shots without any blur plus good photo framing you will have to set your focus manually, focus will also adjust your target exposure.
A slight issue sometimes after you set the focus the handset detects a slight movement and resets the focus at the center so you need to be careful.
Unlike previous HTC phones you can no longer keep holding an area to focus and shoot, you will need to press the capture button after the focus is set.
Auto focus also has a face detection sub function; it works really well when people are in frame.
Recommendation: Unless you want a quick point a shoot photo always set the focus yourself, it will insure you get the proper sharpness plus fix the exposure of your subject.
If people are in the picture face detection will do the job for you. If you like to insure the focus never mess up turn off auto focus altogether but you will lose face detection functionality.
Of course always wait for the focus pointer to turn green.
Self Portrait & Self Timer
Self portrait: If you want your camera to automatically take people photos, you can set it to identify 1 or 2 faces and automatically adjust the focus.
Self timer: If you need to take a group photo or your own photo, you can set a time delay before your camera automatically takes the photo.
ISO, Shutter speed & Flash
ISO determines how sensitive the image sensor is to light, increasing it will help you get more light in darker settings, however the higher the ISO the grainier the photo will look.
The Shutter speed is also affected by light sensitivity, so higher ISO can reduce motion blur.
Recommendation: leave it at auto it does a good job of detecting the needed settings, however if you notice the image is too grainy, too dark or suffering motion blur you can adjust it manually.
Use an ISO of 100 or 200 when taking photographs outside in sunny conditions. If the sky is overcast or it is evening time, then use an ISO within the range of 400 to 800.
Moving subjects will require some ISO and flash consideration to prevent motion blur.
Shutter Speed
The shutter speed in the DHD is linked to the available light, testing in daylight at low ISO reveals motion blur with moving subjects.
Higher ISO means more light so it will snap moving subjects sharply of course of at the cost of increasing grain in the image.
You can see the difference in the viewfinder by changing the ISO value (in daylight). The higher the ISO the less motion blur.
Exposure also seems to have an effect on the camera speed, reducing it can reduce motion blur at low light.
Recommendation: Compared to other phones the capturing and saving speed itself is pretty fast.
So when capturing moving subjects a good practice is to snap multiple shots in a raw to make sure you get a good shot, you can disable preview to make this process faster.
As always insure your hand is steady and wait until the photo is completely taken i.e. wait a little after you press capture.
If you can't be bothered then rely on ISO 400 or 800 to prevent motion blur with moving subjects. At low light you still have to insure a steady capture, exposure consideration and enable flash to help.
Flash
If it’s very dark you will have to rely on the flash, The good news is with auto ISO the flash rarely burns your subject and it usually selects a good ISO.
Flash will also help in preventing motion blur. However flash tints the image with some green-yellow hue, it can be improved using the following tricks.
Tips to improve the yellow color tint:
Thanks to Elemental_Fire for the tip! you can get much more natural colors while using the flash by choosing Fluorescent for white balance.
Remember this white balance tip is only good during flash, if you keep it at fluorescent it might ruin your daylight shots.
Like any other photo you can also improve it by using the auto enhance feature in the gallery effects menu.
Here are some examples of low light and flash performance of the DHD camera
Larger: http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/sets/72157625585331314/
Widescreen
To fill the viewfinder 5:3 widescreen aspect is selected by default it gives a cropped photo at the size of 3264x1952, while disabling it produces a full 8 megapixels 4:3 photo at 3264x2448
Recommendation: Leave it disabled, you are loosing lots of pixels with 5:3, even better when widescreen is disabled the viewfinder actually runs smoother.
Gallery Effects
A very nice feature included in the new sense, it allows you to further improve your photos from within the gallery.
On the Gallery app’s Albums screen, tap an album > Press and hold on the photo that you want to add effects to > In the menu that opens, tap Edit, and then tap Effects.
There are too many to list but auto fix will improve the colors and contrast of your photo, while effects like high contrast will add an artistic vignette and increase the sharpness of your image, of course you can also apply them over each other.
It works at native 8 mega pixels photo without badly recompressing it.
Here are some examples (original, auto enhance, high contrast, lively and overexpose)
Larger: http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/sets/72157625585449676/
720p Video recording
Zooming is not available in 720p mode but you can change focus while filming.
In good to ok lighting conditions, the Desire HD films at 30fps, but it can drop to 20 fps and as low as 10fps if its dark.
The exposure settings seems to have an effect on the camera performance, so reducing it will improve frame rate and reduce motion blur.
Filming at 800x480 allows you to zoom in while filming.
The video encoding is good at 8MB/s baseline mp4 level 3.1 but the audio is badly compressed at 8 kHz 32 kbps! Maybe to improve performance…
Recommendation: The main issue with photos applies in 720p, the sharpness setting at default 0 is pretty bad especially with filming people.
Unlike photo mode, setting sharpness to +1 or +2 makes a visible increase in sharpness.
The video will be full of artifacts and jaggies unless you disable it with sharpness -2 or lower it at -1 if you really like sharpness.
If you are filming indoor manually select your white balance, with auto its quit jumpy and keeps changing while filming!
To film at 30fps in low light, scale exposure down to -2 and use the Flash to boost the brightness.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c2uK6uk5MIw&hd=1
The above video recorded 30fps at sunset without any lag, using auto ISO. Keep in mind when you upload to YouTube it re-encodes the video
720p Freeze/Lag issue: [issue appears resolved with the 1.72.405.3 update]
It can be solved by killing tasks before recording, use an app like free advanced task manager hit end all and then launch the camera app. Be careful of background heavy like Skype.
Some people have said formatting the SD card with 32k cluster size will help but I found no solution other than killing tasks before recording, I have the bundled class 2 microSd and it works every time.
Solutions for bad FPS in low light conditions:
Thanks to SupremeBeaver for this excellent tip! Reducing the exposure will improve frame rate, at exposure -2 the frame rate will jump up to 30fps, you can then use both the flash and ISO 800 to boost the brightness, perfect solution for indoors low light.
Keep in mind extra light will always help both the image quality and pefromance, so make use of the Flash and ISO settings, although by default auto ISO takes care of it pretty well.
You can't select the ISO level while in video mode but you can force it in photo mode, of course this will also result in a grainier image.
more samples here from solopalmari.com http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CNtZSgcaToY
Finally the fun part
Desire HD vs Desire vs iPhone4
The iPhone4 has a very good sharpness algorithm, which is quite similar to what you can get with Photoshop. Its great outdoor but fails badly in indoor daylight lighting.
It extracts a lot of noise, perhaps the sensor is working at a very high ISO and unlike the Desire HD you can't adjust any of this.
In case of 720p recording iPhone 4 is the winner by default, it always films at 30fps even in low light (with lots of noise). However the Desire HD can achieve equal results by filming with exposure -2.
The flash on the iphone 4 is a major fail, on the other hand it has a very nice HDR mode. Finally color reproduction on the DHD is better, colors with the iphone4 are adjusted and unreal.
To conclude the DHD has a quit good camera, its only the default HTC settings failing it, fortunately it can all be solved by understanding the available settings.
Deal with sharpness, understand ISO, set framing and focus right and you can achieve great results.
Finally don't forget to experiment with the effects feature in both the camera and gallery which are really impressive.
Feel free to post your success stories or questions
have fun!
thanks i've asked the mod to stick it, it should save lots of questions about the camera
Nice job Hamdir, looks like quite some work!
I did notice the comment on the sharpness -2 setting in one of the other camera threads. It does give the photo's a sort of 'blurred' feel imho, judging the above comparison pics.
Anyway, very clear comparison of all the possible settings.
That must have taken some time to put together . Thanks very much for it, greatly appreciated.
paulus_01 said:
Nice job Hamdir, looks like quite some work!
I did notice the comment on the sharpness -2 setting in one of the other camera threads. It does give the photo's a sort of 'blurred' feel imho, judging the above comparison pics.
Anyway, very clear comparison of all the possible settings.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
yes i'm the one who keeps preaching sharpness -2 hehe
its a little soft at full scale, but why would you ever look at a photo at this size?
it can be improved in many ways since the details are there in the image, anything higher then -2 will mess up the original photo in my opinion
you can settle to sharpness -1 its the closest we can get to Photoshop sharpness quality but you can see in the comparison some details are lost in the bushes for example
don't come anywhere near sharpness 0 its pure @#$%
anyone knows how to embed a youtube video? i can't get it to work
Superb post... thanks for that.
My main issue is capturing moving people (especially my 2 year old!) indoors. Keep getting blurred shots/footage.
Any suggestions to improve this?
Thanks again.
mjt said:
Superb post... thanks for that.
My main issue is capturing moving people (especially my 2 year old!) indoors. Keep getting blurred shots/footage.
Any suggestions to improve this?
Thanks again.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
good question, i'll add a part for that, sadly it seems the shutter speed is a little slow in the DHD.
But capturing a photo is still very quick so there is a solution, when i'm snapping a photo of people i take a few quick shots in a raw, one of them will work
hope this helps
My camera issue:
Having decent settings to get the best result is one thing, having a design flaw is another:
Below is a picture I have taken with the DHD inside a football stadium (it has been resized, but that is irrelevant for the point I am making).
I am sitting 1 meter from the field, with just one row beneath me.
When I try to take a picture of the field, the lights in the roof of the stadium reflect behind the camera's glass protection (it actually reflects behind the black circle which says 8.0 megapixels). This results in the reflection being caught on camera as well.
This, in my opinion, is a design flaw and really should not have occurred. What is your opinion?
it happens mainly when you take a picture and a bright lightsource is above and opposite from you, while your camera is pointed straightforward.
i don't get it, isn't this lens flare? it occurs in all cameras, otherwise you need a specialty lens to deal with this
as a matter fact we simulate and add it as an effect when we make a CG stadium animation...
None of the pics I made with my K850i had this show up.
I think this should not happen, it is a reflection of the light on the inside of the camera cover or something.
i think it varies between different lenses, cameras and phones, i don't know its clearly lens flare, here check these from google
and this a straight shot of the sun, its just lens flare tons of cameras do that
[edit]thanks, is it working for you? it gives me "movie not loaded" can anyone confirms the video is embedded?
I don't know, to me it seems reflection bounces from the back of the black glass cover.
I get your point of it being flare, however, it looks a bit different to me.
brilliant guide! nicely laid out! u clearly have experience with photography and it shows! thanks very much, i cant wait to get snapping on christmas day! =)
hamdir said:
good question, i'll add a part for that, sadly it seems the shutter speed is a little slow in the DHD.
But capturing a photo is still very quick so there is a solution, when i'm snapping a photo of people i take a few quick shots in a raw, one of them will work
hope this helps
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Did you ever get a chance to see if there's any solution to this?
An amazing guide! I hope to buy the phone before Christmas and the one thing, other than the battery life, that was of concern to me was the quality of the camera, however with you suggestions I don't think it will be as big an issue.
Amazing guide! thank you for that!
I have a question, using my DHD at a night club, all photos came out either overexposed, unfocused, alot of noise or other kind of poor image quality.
The photos you took with flash surprised me a lot. Is there a special reason for that?
co0kie said:
Amazing guide! thank you for that!
I have a question, using my DHD at a night club, all photos came out either overexposed, unfocused, alot of noise or other kind of poor image quality.
The photos you took with flash surprised me a lot. Is there a special reason for that?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
never had this problem, only yest at the pub I tried to take a quick photo of a friend, it was out of focus in the viewfinder so I had to get the camera to focus right at this point the focus sticks to the same distance for the next shots
so make sure you get focus, quick point and snap doesn't always work well at night. Also in low light the viewfinder slows down so you need to make sure your hand is steady.
I now have a habit of snapping multiple shots in row, later I delete the ones that came out badly
one thing I can't figure out is motion blur, sometimes fast moving subjects get blurred on the other hand I have dozens of amazingly focused shots of friends while moving.
The only explanation I could think of is maybe the shutter speed adjusts in auto or maybe its related to low light and high ISO since most of the motion blurred shots are at night without flash, I will try to investigate this.
Hamdir,I appreciate your amazing work and admire the effort and time you put to it,but I just have one thing to disagree with.You said that 720p video at low light conditions has a very low framerate,whereas the iPhone 4 get 30fps but with noise,right?Try upping your ISO all the way to 800 from the photo mode in the camera and then switch to video and record one.You will get full fps,just noise will occur.Most phones probably do that automatically(that's why they all give noise in low light IMO).I saw that with my friend's SE Vivaz.Try that and report back!
Other than that,your work seems...Flawless!Well done!I hope there are more people like you around here!
tolis626 said:
Hamdir,I appreciate your amazing work and admire the effort and time you put to it,but I just have one thing to disagree with.You said that 720p video at low light conditions has a very low framerate,whereas the iPhone 4 get 30fps but with noise,right?Try upping your ISO all the way to 800 from the photo mode in the camera and then switch to video and record one.You will get full fps,just noise will occur.Most phones probably do that automatically(that's why they all give noise in low light IMO).I saw that with my friend's SE Vivaz.Try that and report back!
Other than that,your work seems...Flawless!Well done!I hope there are more people like you around here!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
cool nice tip ill try it, if it works ill add to the guide thx
So GCam is definitely the answer for getting the best photo quality out of this phone in almost any situation, but let's see how we can record the best possible video.
Btw, when you first try video recording with the Note 7 in low light, it's natural to be disappointed since you're comparing it to GCam's photo output in low light. GCam uses frame stacking and other techniques to remove noise, increase dynamic range and get details in both shadows and highlights as well as the rest of the image. To produce only one 12-megapixel frame, it uses anywhere from 3 to 15 frames and takes a few seconds to do the complex blending and computations to create a great low light photo. Without a much stronger SoC, ISP, a better sensor and more advanced processing algorithms, this is impossible to do while recording a video, as the phone is struggling to keep up with recording 30 8-megapixel frames (UHD) each second or 2-megapixel frames in case of 1080p. They've barely managed to get SD 660 to comfortably use real-time EIS at 1080p30, along with auto focusing, WB, exposure, noise reduction etc.
So, knowing that in low light this phone's video recording will never be great, let's focus on other aspects of its video recording. My only idea for improving low light video recording is to find an app that can use a high bitrate in order to avoid introducing additional noise and artifacts. This also applies to filming in daylight.
I'll start with some findings about the differences between the stock app, GCam and Open Camera when recording video.
STABILIZATION
As far as video stabilization goes, only stock camera's 1080p30 EIS properly uses gyro-EIS and that really is the most beautiful stabilization you'll get out of this phone. No wobbling or image distortion, it just softens the shakiness, as if the phone were on a gimbal.
1080p30 EIS in GCam – it's instantly noticeable that the viewfinder here is stabilized (whereas in the stock app it isn't). It appears to be using the gyroscope, but not in the same way the stock app does. Stabilization is OK, but not as smooth as in the stock app and wobbliness can be noticed occasionally, with more abrupt movement.
UHD EIS in GCam – better than no stabilization, but wobbliness on the edges tends to be obvious when there's a lot of movement.
1080p30 or UHD EIS in Open Camera – also a stabilized viewfinder, but the stabilization algorithm here is very wobbly, which is extremely noticeable in UHD, so try to hold the phone as stable as possible when recording in Open Camera. The highlight of Open Camera for the Note 7 is its front-facing camera UHD stabilized video recording. So far this is my only use case for Open Camera on this phone (plus testing).
If you like using 1080p60 because of its smoother panning and movement in general, here's a tip to stabilize 60 fps videos: shoot in 1080p60 without EIS in the stock app or another app (using a high bitrate when possible) and then stabilize the footage in Google Photos, which does a nice job unless the video is impossibly shaky.
SLOW MOTION
In my testing, I've never managed to get a smooth slo-mo video out of the stock app and I've tried it after every MIUI update so far. At 1080p or 720p, the result is always a stuttering slo-mo video. GCam to the rescue!
GCam can record stutter-free 1080p slo-mo for a long time (I tried it for a couple minutes) and the resulting video is smooth as butter, suffering only from an occasional hiccup here and there. Perfectly usable.
Open Camera can also record in 1080p120. Different apps should be tried out to see how smooth the slo-mo is and which one is able to use the highest bitrate, leading to the highest image quality. Although image quality does appear to be limited in slow motion mode.
FIELD OF VIEW (FOV)
If you have your phone on a tripod or you can lean on a surface to stabilize it, you should turn EIS off. This will give you a wider field of view and a sharper image. When you're recording a video, the top and bottom portions of the image are cut off to accommodate for the widescreen format. This already makes you lose around 25% of the image information that the sensor can actually see. EIS works by further zooming into the centre of the sensor (or cropping the image) and using the now-extra information to shift the frame in any direction as necessary, to produce an impression of a more stable footage.
The phone will not recognize that it's on a tripod and turn EIS off. You have to do that manually. Why would you want to do that? If you want:
1) to capture more of the scene (a wider field of view), with EIS on, you'll have to step back (which is sometimes not possible)
2) better image: stabilization comes with trade-offs. If you don't need it, turn it off. The phone will be able to use a greater number of pixels to create your fixed-resolution video, resulting in a better image.
With 1080p30 EIS off or UHD without EIS, you'll have the widest FOV possible for video on this sensor. Only top and bottom are cut off for widescreen.
1080p60 EIS off – for some reason, this has just slightly narrower FOV than 1080p30 without EIS. The same FOV appears to be present in 1080p120 (slow motion).
When EIS is on, it crops the least on the stock app, slightly more on GCam and the most on Open Camera.
VIDEO AND AUDIO BITRATES AND QUALITY
Work in progress. So far I can only tell that stock and BSG's GCam produce different videos. Stock uses a higher video bitrate and GCam a higher audio bitrate. Open Camera tends to put on a yellow cast, presumably to make the image warmer. Also, bulkin's GCam allows you to select video bitrate. Haven't played with that or the bitrate in Open Camera.
It's also worth to test other apps, such as Cinema FV-5. I've had luck with that on previous phones.
My recommendation is Open Camera by mark harman
Plzz any one provide me the link
tamalnag said:
Plzz any one provide me the link
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
open camera is on play store
Very detailed observation.. Thanks for sharing. ?
Have anyone tried 'Footej Camera'?
Great post. My recomendation for all uses is gcam, not the best in all but not the worst. Perfect for a daily use
There is a possibility to set the video bit rate in some of the other GCam MODs.
I can recommend this GCam MOD made from developer marlin-ku OR this GCam MOD which have much more valuable options (speed / ISO optimisations) from developer bulkin043. The last version of the second MOD is available in the Telegram channel here.
This port is the best working - one of the few other GCam MODs I'm frequently using on my Redmi Note 7.
have you tried anx camera
Quaresma_7 said:
If you like using 1080p60 because of its smoother panning and movement in general, here's a tip to stabilize 60 fps videos: shoot in 1080p60 without EIS in the stock app or another app (using a high bitrate when possible) and then stabilize the footage in Google Photos, which does a nice job unless the video is impossibly shaky
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
is it is also true for 4k30 ? do you getter final image quality and stabilization if you do eis in google photo as it must be a more complex algorithm vs "eis on" that only must use a simpler faster algorithm that runs in real time
is it hardware accelerated by the snapdragon 660's Spectra 160 ISP or is it software running on the arm cpu (question both for " eis on" and for stabilisation done in google photos app )
amanieux said:
is it is also true for 4k30 ? do you getter final image quality and stabilization if you do eis in google photo as it must be a more complex algorithm vs "eis on" that only must use a simpler faster algorithm that runs in real time
is it hardware accelerated by the snapdragon 660's Spectra 160 ISP or is it software running on the arm cpu (question both for " eis on" and for stabilisation done in google photos app )
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Google photos stabilization is good, sometimes it does a miracle, but some artifacts appear in the video. It's more aggressive and intelligent than eis on but quality could be not so good. (I don't know anything about which processor is used, but in Google photo is a lot slow the stabilization process, about the double of the video duration)
video quality difference between 4k and 1080p on bsg mod
i installed this gcam mod : https://f.celsoazevedo.com/file/cfiles/gcm1/MGC_6.2.030_RN7_V1a_FINAL.apk but i notice that 1080p and 4k have a completely different look (different WB, different DR) is it due to snapdragon 660 limitations ? is gcam only configuring the hardware capture codec for snapdragon 660 hardware or is it applying some software computation (google proprietary code) on each frame in real time ?
Best video camera app for me is open camera. I do 1080p with 120 fpS with that and it's awesome. Other one is filmic pro. I can shoot flat video and chose nitrate and frame rate.
Cinema f5
My RN7 can't install the GCAM, I've been getting the message "App Not Installed" please any help?
Okusac said:
My RN7 can't install the GCAM, I've been getting the message "App Not Installed" please any help?
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Uninstall any other previous versions. Then install this
https://drive.google.com/file/d/10OAI7zoNHiBjSmxRGTv2meclafg4nmxV/view?usp=drivesdk
Ryamoz said:
Uninstall any other previous versions. Then install this
https://drive.google.com/file/d/10OAI7zoNHiBjSmxRGTv2meclafg4nmxV/view?usp=drivesdk
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Okay, I've than that... Thanks
My best is filmic pro. It is dedicated app for video making. U can record in flat/log profile which u then can color grade later on.
The quality is greater than other app.
Open camera is also nice but it has less control over the video. U can't control color temperature and u can't basic color grade ur videos. Plus u can't save ur preset.
I have no luck with GCam and stock one.
Pics GCam, Video Stock
Interesting Thread. On MIUI Global 10.3.6 and now MIUI Global 11.0.4 (Android 9) using GCam PMGC_7.0.009_Astrophoto_Version_V12 overall I'm impressed, activated Sabre and H265/HEVC (edit/play/upload compatibility seems good for the apps I mostly use which paired with the smaller size is good). Not sure if really but crispness/clarity seems well improved as well as less speckles/red-dots especially on the skin in artificial/low light. EIS also still very good.
I also use the stock camera and OpenCamera, so what bothered me in GCam PMGC:
a) still focus flickering in video (can it be optimized by any settings?), stock RN7 camera IMHO has considerably less such flickering?
b) needing GSF: so no CustomROMs? Or is MicroG able to solve this?
c) found no possibility to save to SD-Card DCIM, I think in PMGC V3/V4 versions this still was available?
For OpenCamera while b) und c) are no problem regarding a) there seems to be good micro movement EIS but overall movement/transition is not so smooth; focus seems manual (tapping on-screen) so I could not see flickering . I like OpenCamera for the many settings especially the filename without prefix. It is also possible to set RAW DNG or WebP (I use 4x3k JPG 84%), Exif tags, HEVC, 24 fps, flat/log profile. I wonder why half-max-res pics (2000x1500) are not available to select. For video I would like to have something 16:9 slightly bigger then FHD so like 3K (2560x1440) which is not available (only 4:3). I also can not find timelapse.
A friend has Filmic on RN7. It has pro options and as well HEVC. As i tried once EIS is ok (below stock/GCam) and it seems video focus flickering is noticable just a little more then Stock and GCAM is considerably worse. I do not like the 1/3 screen Play preview of taken videos (just 3 show up) and also the files are not saved in the standard DCIM camera folder on the SD (CMS External Storage, not found by Gallery Apps).
Currently my preference is:
Images: GCam PMGC
Video: RN7 Stock; Timelapses: GCam PMGC
Hi everyone! Back to this topic to ask you a question. After the recent upgrade to Android 10, still with MIUI 11, I've noticed that
- stock camera has video stabilization working "after save"
- gcam (tons of version tried) and opencamera have no more stabilization. Once it was directly on the screen. Now there's any noticable on the screen or offer save.
Do you have the same problem? Thanks! Any way to solve this?