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I am attempting to house an i-mate PDA2 in a custom enclosure (for a product that we make). I want to modify the 22 pin connector on the sync/power cable but I cannot find a pinout.
I need a picture or diagram of the 3, or is it 4, rows of pins with pin numbers, pin function and connector wiring (jumpers, etc.)
Anyone know where I might find this?
Before you get crushed by the "rtfm" type posts, I humbly direct your attention to the "connectors" link on the front page of this site, which will lead you to: http://wiki.xda-developers.com/wiki/Connectors. It's an extremely useful page!
OK, I told you so now you tell me; what're you guys making?!
I did check out the "connectors" page and it is helpful.
However, what I am looking for are details of the inside of the cable connector. I took one of these connectors apart and it's not the easiest thing in the world to figure out which pin goes to which on the PDA side or what the number system is.
So, it would be very helpful to know if someone has already gone through the unravelling.
In a nutshell, our company has developed a technology that uses ultrasonics to measure load in bolts both during and after tightening. The PDA is the platform for the controller of the tightening and inspection tools.
Sorry, I assumed that you'd not looked at the connectors page because I used it to figure out (I think) what it is you're after when I was trying to make my own sync/charge/gps connector.
If this is something that you can't resolve with a multimeter, then I guess you must be looking at an interesting connector! I'd suggest posting a couple of pics of the connector with it's top off lined up with the phone's socket. That'll make it easier to figure out what's what!
The load detector sounds cool, I'd love to see a screenshot if you've got one.
Yes, it can be resolved with a multimeter - I was just looking for the lazy way out!
I have attached a photo of the prototype unit - not the most professional representation, but a decent one nonetheless.
That looks cool! I love it when people *really* use these things.
If you open the connector up and see 2 (staggered) rows of tiny, really hard to solder :lol: pins, pin 1 (left side of the phone connector if you hold it bottom towards you, screen up) is the bottom left pin.
_| | | | | | | | | | |
| | | | | | | | | | |_
^ bottom left is pin 1. Hope this helps, sorry I had to bath the baby earlier and was typing whilst holding a somewhat sticky little girl
Thank you!
Subject: PDA2 sync/power cable connector pinout
On this thread, I was thinking of using the desktop cradle as the base for a mobile mount.
But the pin-outs for the PDA2k are not easily found.
The connector link now appears to be at:
http://wiki.xda-developers.com/index.php?pagename=Connectors
This page seems only to refer to the Wallaby and the Himalaya.
Is there a specific page for the PDA2k or does anyone know if the pin-outs of the 22 pin connector are the same for the Wallaby/Himalaya as they are for the PDA2k?
-I found elsewhere that Pin 19 was different.
Are there any other differences?
Also somewhere amongst the threads there was a mention of the pin-outs of the 2.5mm audio out /mic in was different or was it the switch on the hands free headset?
I have trawlled the site and it has eluded me so far for a consiolidated posting on the connectors for the PDA2k.
Can anyone point me in the right direction?
Perhaps I am just deluding myself
Thanks in advance
If you lost your marbles, would you know where to find them?
harrier mounts and connectors
I wouldn't use the desk cradle to make a car mount. IMO the car mount from Clicon (www.clicon.com.au) is better mechanically than the desk cradle, and already suited to vehicle mounting
There are a number of variants of their kits, but not many that suit my pda2k-evdo. The ones that do suit are:
- plain cradle with no connectors, but leaving the pda2k connector exposed and accessible
- plain cradle with "passthrough" connector - so connect your own charger etc to the bottom of it. Note that this passthrough doesn't support the two lugs that some pda2k plugs have (eg the charging dongle that came with the pda2k-evdo)
- cradle with lighter-socket charger. The charger part is actually removeable; they've just screwed the car charger to the cradle.
The lighter-socket charger mentioned above has a small board inside the connector with Tx and Rx holes labelled. It looks like it was designed for making a serial+charge adaptor.
I have a separate RS232+charger adaptor cable ("suits XDA IIs") which looks like it's charging, but really just keeps the screen on and runs down the battery quicker. It turns out it only has one V+ and one Gnd pin connected, as opposed to 3 of each listed on the Connector page on this site. Makes me wonder whether the 3 pins for V+ actually all have the same function. Time to mod the connector...
Gregnash,
I agree with your summary,
and I have looked at the available in car cradles/holders.
I have already ported a XDA1 cradel with audio/mic,USB and power to see if the connections can be done successfully.
All worked except for the mic as I need to find a 4 polo 2.5mm panel socket so that it switches on hook.(this I assume is pin 19)
You are right, by itself the Harrier cradle does not securely hold the pda in place as there is lateral movement.
What I am trying to achieve is a "all in one" in car cradle/holder.
I have sucessfully mounted a NOKIA passive anennae connector to a stand alone generic brand pda holder.
This as you said allows the connector to be exposed for charging.
I have used this method with a 9db external (old analogue antenna-funny that, you can use them for CDMA) antenna or a 9 db through glass antenna.
Currently the system is clumsy as also I run a bluetooth external GPS and route the audio from the 2.5mm socket to the cassette player adapter.
-(no audio IN in this car radio)
What I was hoping to do was to incorporate the Nokia Passive antenna coupler at the rear of the Harrier cradle which would put slight pressure in the forwards direction to both make an antenna connection and more secure and stop the Harrier from moving.
(Another flash idea is to strip the inductance plate from the coupler and mount a antenna cable socket on the coupler face so that it aligns with the antenna out from the Harrier)
With the audio out /mic in and charge through this connector , I am hoping to eliminate all of the wiring as I can conceal the wiring back inside the dash.
The only other thing is the on hook switch for receiving calls.
As you can probably guess I probably have too much spare time.
Perhaps Bluetooth In car kit will by-pass the need for the physical connectors as it is software driven.
But I have heard of so many bad reports of BT connecting to the phone that it appears to be pot luck if I find one that works.
What about this arrangement:
1. Harrier cradle -with antenna coupler if secure,
2. bluetooth in car (cigarette lighter style) hands free-Blue Ant etc,
3. audio out from cradle to radio ( for GPS instructions and playing mp3 from Harrier) freq transmitter(powered externally).
4. bluetooth GPS external antenna
mmmm..... maybe a bit of an ask but it does allow a "drop on cradle ,push forwards to engage antenna and forget" action.
Maybe I am off with the fairies, what do you think?
Any comments would be appreciated.
For antenna supplies you can try this site http://www.wpsantennas.com/ basically I think it would boost reception back to 3 watts. 3 watts is the same wattage as the old car mounted mobile phones. Mobile phones operate on 0.5 watts. No wonder our reception sucks in so many places.
Hook the antenna into a car cradle and some type of handsfreee switch for the radio, and you have a very powerful, very mobile 3 watt mobile phone with great reception.. if you got carried away you could even connect your car to the ppc and moniter engine, fuel, etc. Plus a GPS.. and oh the possibilties are endless.
Johnno's ambitious car kit
Yeah, I think you do have too much time on your hands
Sounds like a plan, though, and I'd like to know if you make it all work. The antenna couplers I've seen take a bit too much force for a "drop in, push back" arrangement, but one designed for a different phone may do the trick if it fits.
btw, my interest in serial is for wired GPS and to talk to the engine management computer (not at the same time, or one will have to be bluetooth). Even better if they can be powered from the same cable.
dougnet
Thanks for the link.
I actually had thought of this proposal.
I actually contacted tht crowd (amongst others) about two months ago as I was thinking the same as you.
They answered that they are not allowed to export GSM or CDMA amplifiers to Australia.
I think it might be that new "Free Trade Agreement and respecting our telcos" we now have with the US where things are not really "FREE".
Probabably if I asked 12 months ago it might not have been a problem.
Nice products.
Trouble with Antenna couplers , is that you lose at least 1.2db + in the cconnection.
You you really need a grunty antenna or output.
".. if you got carried away you could even connect your car to the ppc and moniter engine, fuel, etc. Plus a GPS.. and oh the possibilties are endless. "
Now I have an automatic car so rev monitoring would certainly be overkill.
I get your drift, though thanks for the input.
gregnash
I will have to see how much force is needed to engage the pda.
Don't forget that at least the same force will be needed to disengage it as well.
Mmmm...good point, this means seeing whether a panel mount socket is available in this cofig.
Wouldn't have a clue who might sell panel mount sockets suitable for the Harrier/Blue Angel?
I am not sure how a cable termination would cope with the forces needed.
The fixing method would have to be substantial.
Serial connections to the car comp?
You would probably need to hack the code to get access to it I suppose?
But if you could tap into the on-board engine management computer, then you could change the air to fuel ratio at the injectors and lots of other cool things like disengage my engine cut-out at 190k/per hour and have some real fun!!!
Not much fun at 190K/h and the engine stops-no brakes, no steer!!!
Must be for the rev heads-NOT ME!
I will investigate the force on the antenna connector to see if this is feasable to mount.
I will let you know what I find.
Hi all.
Thanks for the encouragement.
Well life is full of compromises!
So long as you do not require audio output and you are happy with the Harriers speakerphone volume, I think I have a home solution for the uninitiated.
1. I have a "generic brand mobile phone holder-one of those adjustable in width ones- full width just held the Harrier nice and snug.
2. To this I mounted at the bottom (after removing the locking latches)
a USB car charger cable -with no modifications.
-Actually I pop rivetted the backing shell to the holder.
3. I then mounted a Nokia a passive antenna coupler and sculptured the holder-so that it fits at the right height and to the left of the Harrier.(where the antennae is on the Harrier)
4. I then mounted the holder onto the dash of the car (my choice as I put it though a removable panel where a digital clock is fitted in an other model, and passed the antenna cable,and the charger cable to a cavity in the dash.
5. Here I supplied a cigarette socket with 12 volts and connected the charger cable.
What I ended up with was a car mount that was a "drop in" style that
was easy to build without any fiddly soldering of connector pins.
I actually did make it with USB and audio out but these were surperflous as at the moment I do not have an audio in for my car radio or an amp to drive it.
But I just wanted to see if it could be done.
This is why in the picture you can see electrical tape around the cabling.
(This is because I had USB,Audio out and Car charger cable.)
Once you have this type of holder, it is not hard to get a new holder and move only the antenna coupler across ( I would think that the new connector would be different from the Harrier)when you upgrade to a new PDA.
In summary:
Compromise 1.
1.2db loss at antenna coupler-using 9db external antennae so I can live with that.- but no nasty "push to connect" hassles.
Compromise 2.
Audio out does work but the level is so low that it needs good amplification , this I will not follow up until I get a car radio with audio in.
Rely on Speakerphone fore the time being.
I hope this is of help to those thinking of this kind of project.
I hope the picture is reasonably self explanitary.
If you have any questions just let me know.
Hello,
i want to connect external wifi antenna to S620 and i need some small help with that.
I dismantled the phone and removed shields from all ICs.
On picture 2 and 3 are Texas Instruments WiFi chips.
On picture 1 is other side of the board, with some metal piece and connector, which might be external wifi connector.
The connector is at opposite side in left bottom corner if you look at image 2, between PASS sticker and mounting hole, at the corner of large PCB ground pole.
Is that metal piece integrated antenna?
That connector is probably not U.FL.
Anyone know what type of connector is that?
Thanks.
Not sure but follow the link below for the service manual, it may give you some insight:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=402998&highlight=service+manual
if you managed tu connect it, let us know everything...
hope you can do it succesfully!!!
Ok, so i looked at the service manual, the connector is diagnostic (RF measurement) type, with switch.
MM8430-2600RA1
Probably will be in all HTC devices. So i will try to search on the forum, if anybody done this on different phone.
See page 9 and 10 for switch schematics and pinout
http://www.murata.com/catalog/o30e8.pdf
There are "probe" cables for it, but the probe connector is too big to hide under the cover.
I have a friend with experience with SMD, so i asked him if he can desolder it and solder pigtail with RSMA.
Cable can be taken out of the phone by using free space around hole which covers the GSM antenna connector.
I verified that by putting the cable in and closing the phone.
I also tried to hold stripped cable on the connector, with attached directional antenna and i picked up the APs in that direction, so it is working. (and really well)
The problem is that ground poles of the connector maybe connects ground to the power button, so after desoldering, it might not be possible to turn it on...
The safe way can be removing that piece of metal (yes, it is wifi antenna) and solder pigtail instead of it.
It should be simple, because under it are only two "paths" in PCB.
However, the best way is probably to solder it on opposite side, there is a PCB path from Wifi chips, going through the PCB, ending on middle pin of the connector.
But that cannot be done, because there is no way how to get the cable out of the phone.
I still prefer desoldering the connector, because it is placed "before" the antenna, so connecting it there would give a bit better results.
Edit: i searched the forum a bit, but all i found is service manual for Diamond, which seems to have U.FL connector. But i will not buy it because of that, only maybe when it will cost 80 USD like S620.
Hi,
I want to make a small project and I thought of using N7 2013 LCD because this display have full-hd resolution 16:10. I know how to hook up a previous N7 lcd (2012 aka gen1) to DVI-LVDS adapter, but I wanted higher resolution
FYI: Designing and building pcb circuit is not difficult thing to do for me so this is not issue.
I tried to get in my hands a datasheet for LCD panel but no luck. The number printed on LCD is almost different for each display photo that I found - so this is not a panel symbol.
So the point is: I would like to ask someone that have ME571K repair guide, if he/she could share with me a part (screenshot) where is a LCD connector on motherboard described (signal names, pinout, connector manufacturer & part number).
I would be really happy, I sb actually shared a more information: a whole way from CPU to the LCD panel - this would be terrific - but this a little too much to ask
saper_2 said:
I would like to ask someone that have ME571K repair guide, if he/she could share with me a part (screenshot) where is a LCD connector on motherboard described (signal names, pinout, connector manufacturer & part number)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi, I don't have the pinouts nor repair guide, but here are manufacturer & part numbers...
Just search online for lcd monitor driver board ...you will find some good results
@k23m - thanks, but actually I need a other side connector of the LCD FPC P/N the one you connect to main board:
@deadgiveaway - you mean DVI/HDMI to LVDS adapter board? I know them (and I plan to use one but this is not issue), but I'm looking at least for a pinout of LCD FPC connector or the mainboard connector to lcd FPC (on the attached photo). Without this information the "adapter board" (DVI/HDMI to LVDS) is useless. I've done some reverse engineering on the FPC connecting mainboard with LCD and I've got in result some questions, e.g.: I'm certain there is a 6 differential signal pairs, but LVDS commonly use: 4 or 8, but I found in some datasheet there might be 6 too (rare case). Also the CPU Snapdragon have multiple video interfaces: HDMI, LVDS and (the worst case for me) MIPI-DSI.
Just got an some idea, there might be some information about display interface in /sys (linux/android file system path ) on Nexus 7.
Hi,
Thanks for attempts to help me. Unfortunatly I found out looking at /sys/calss/graphics/fb0/msm_fb_type ...
Code:
[email protected]:/sys/class/graphics/fb0 $ ls
bits_per_pixel
blank
console
cursor
dev
mode
modes
msm_fb_fps_level
msm_fb_type
name
pan
power
rotate
state
stride
subsystem
uevent
virtual_size
vsync_event
[email protected]:/sys/class/graphics/fb0 $ cat msm_fb_type
mipi dsi cmd panel
MIPI-DSI interface is no good for any use for me (there is no doc publicly available...). So I'm going to use lcd from N7 2012
Ps. For interested, is possible to use LCD from nexus 7 2012. A user aBUGSworstnightmare @ Raspberrypi forum, managed to hook up LCD from N7 2012 to DVI-LVDS converter/adapter: https://www.raspberrypi.org/forums/viewtopic.php?p=1052828#p1052828
!close
Im trying to find the pinout moto x play or any other mobile displays. But I wasn't get any success
Can you tell me how did you get these pinout information
I'm doing a project on HDMI input to the display I found a module on hackaday project
Look fo service manual schematic for you phone. But almost always in displays that have resolution over 640*480 you find only mipi dsi interface. To get datasheet from manufacturer ( and MIPI DSI interface spec too ) is almost impossible [emoji3525] - unless you work for company and sign NDA with them for docs ...
Sent from my VTR-L29 using Tapatalk
I recently picked up a new (for us) radio with built-in GPS and DVD/CD (and other extras). The model (LC1X) has three rectangular sockets on back... one that came with a wiring cable for a Nisson, a rectangular one (20 pin), containing audio in L and R, Video in and out, and a couple of others. There is supposed to be a cable for a subwoofer, but it's not on that connector (no labeled sub cable). There are a couple of cables coming out of the back of the radio - one for antenna, the other goes to an 8 pin socket - three pins used, and it looks like they're a ground with two shielded wires. (I haven't scoped them yet to see if there is audio present.)
I have a decent (not massive) subwoofer I'd like to hook to it, but no luck on figuring out what the pinout is for the 20 pin socket. According to what I've found (not much), the radio is supposed to have a subwoofer connection. I found a manual for the I-9/I-10 OS/firmware, but only generic stuff beyond that.
Does anyone have any information that might help? I know it's an old radio, but it's much better than what we had before. I bought the thing from a surplus electronics dealer, but there was no manual for it. I was able to figure out and get it going, except for subwoofer.
Also, is there some way to get Regedit into the radio, so I can make adjustments? I'm not so interested in modding the system, just making a few changes now and then.
Thanks!
Bob
BTW - The two pictures I uploaded - one shows the layout of the back of the radio, the other was the labels on the box. I just haven't had any luck doing searches with the labels.
Hi everyone,
I have ordered almost 2 years ago a Dasaita 9" Android 10 Head Unit (4G 64G Octa Core) for my 2009 Forester. Until yesterday the device worked fine, I really loved and enjoyed it, I was really impressed with it. The only thing I change I was the launcher and mainly used it for Google Maps, Spotify and Torque Pro.
Yesterday on my way to my mate’s, 50km on the way, the head unit just stopped working, I was just using google maps and listening some tunes on Spotify. (note: the screen was hot to the touch).
Since then the screen is totally black and the only thing that lights up when I turn on the lights are the side buttons. I tried to reset, the lights are flashing then nothing. No matter what the screen remains dead. Also I noticed my OBD2 adapter doesn’t connect automatically to the HU as it used to and I can’t connect by Bluetooth with my phone neither.
All this brings me to think that the HU is dead ????
I saw few videos and threads online with people having more or less the same issue… anyone got a solution or faced the same problem ?
Thank you for the help
What steps have been taken to investigate
MrPoopyButtOle said:
Hi everyone,
I have ordered almost 2 years ago a Dasaita 9" Android 10 Head Unit (4G 64G Octa Core) for my 2009 Forester. Until yesterday the device worked fine, I really loved and enjoyed it, I was really impressed with it. The only thing I change I was the launcher and mainly used it for Google Maps, Spotify and Torque Pro.
Yesterday on my way to my mate’s, 50km on the way, the head unit just stopped working, I was just using google maps and listening some tunes on Spotify. (note: the screen was hot to the touch).
Since then the screen is totally black and the only thing that lights up when I turn on the lights are the side buttons. I tried to reset, the lights are flashing then nothing. No matter what the screen remains dead. Also I noticed my OBD2 adapter doesn’t connect automatically to the HU as it used to and I can’t connect by Bluetooth with my phone neither.
All this brings me to think that the HU is dead ????
I saw few videos and threads online with people having more or less the same issue… anyone got a solution or faced the same problem ?
Thank you for the help
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'd pull the unit and check you didn't just lose you 12v or ground cable.
gottahavit said:
I'd pull the unit and check you didn't just lose you 12v or ground cable.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you for your answers.
So I have pulled the unit out and checked with the multimeter, I’ve got a good ground and I read 12V (from the harness adapter). These seems fine right ?!
I assume you've tried the reset button?
Does the Daisata have a detachable screen? On my joying I'd check the ribbon cable.
Next I'd attach the 12v and ground to an external source(got a battery charger around?)
If that all fails then I guess try to talk to the Seller.
gottahavit said:
I assume you've tried the reset button?
Does the Daisata have a detachable screen? On my joying I'd check the ribbon cable.
Next I'd attach the 12v and ground to an external source(got a battery charger around?)
If that all fails then I guess try to talk to the Seller.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The screen isn’t detachable.
I got in touch with the seller and that’s his reply:
“1. Do you try to power off the device to check?
2. If you have power off and it still doesn\'t help. Please remove the power cable and then wait 3 minutes to plug it again.
3. After plug the power cable, wait 3 minutes, and then click the touch screen button to check whether you can hear the sound.
4. If you can hear the sound, you can check the 2 bands in the following:
https://image.pushauction.com/0/0/dce5012a-1758-4291-8a6d-52d646eb6789/d770b77d-524c-47b5-8e88-6454abf03318.jpg
Here is the video for you to check how to unplug one band:
you can follow it to check another bands.
5. If the step 4 don't help, you can check the unplug the core chip, and then plug it aigan:
6. If the step 5 don\'t help, please use the pin to press the RST after you reconnect the power cable. You should press the RST hole until you saw the button light is flashing
to check whether you can see the image now.”
I’ve followed the steps 1 to 3 and nothing happened, no sounds.
just got back from work and I’m gonna give a shot to no4, unplug the chip…
I would press the reset pin as the first step, but as long as they are helping you through it.
If the unit has HDMI output, I would suggest hooking up an external monitor. If you see a valid image on the external monitor, then most likely the problem is the LCD display in the head unit. If nothing is displayed on the external then it's likely the core board or some part of the mainboard which may have overheated. These units have many weak points that can render them useless.
I will share with you that I had this exact same unit as yours and the TFT board (it's the board that interfaces the LCD display to the mainboard) had a component burn up which left the screen dark. Dasaita provided a new TFT board which got the display working again. If you do manage to get the unit going again, never run the display brightness at 100% or you risk having the TFT board problem.
Requested moderator to move this thread to MTCD Android Head Units General.
jlbooth said:
If the unit has HDMI output, I would suggest hooking up an external monitor. If you see a valid image on the external monitor, then most likely the problem is the LCD display in the head unit. If nothing is displayed on the external then it's likely the core board or some part of the mainboard which may have overheated. These units have many weak points that can render them useless.
I will share with you that I had this exact same unit as yours and the TFT board (it's the board that interfaces the LCD display to the mainboard) had a component burn up which left the screen dark. Dasaita provided a new TFT board which got the display working again. If you do manage to get the unit going again, never run the display brightness at 100% or you risk having the TFT board problem.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There isn’t a HDMI output, is there another way I could hook it up to a monitor ???
It’s interesting what you’re saying about the brightness, I often had it on max during the day and my partner who had the car on the day the unit died told me that she had the car heaters on ( it’s cold in the part of Australia where we at) and noticed that just before dying the screen brightness went dim.
it’s really confusing right now as I can’t figure out what exactly is the problem.
I tried everything the seller suggested and nothing worked. How long did your unit last ? I’m just wondering if I should just get a new one but it is annoying as I only had it for 2 years and I got the top of the range (at the time) from them.
Thank you
Only other option I can think of is that there may be composite video out connections via RCA connections if it has those. Since you say it does not connect to your phone via Bluetooth, that suggests the unit is not booting up when power removed and reconnected. I would venture a guess that the coreboard has an issue especially if the problem was caused by a thermal issue. But that's only an inconclusive guess on my part.
Even when the screen was an issue the unit would boot up and it connected with my phone.
My unit lasted about 5 months before the screen problem. However it was in my second vehicle and it wasn't my daily driver, thus it probably wouldn't have lasted that long if it was being used everyday. Fortunately in my case Dasaita provided the needed replacement board at no charge under warranty.
MrPoopyButtOle said:
The screen isn’t detachable.
I got in touch with the seller and that’s his reply:
“1. Do you try to power off the device to check?
2. If you have power off and it still doesn\'t help. Please remove the power cable and then wait 3 minutes to plug it again.
3. After plug the power cable, wait 3 minutes, and then click the touch screen button to check whether you can hear the sound.
4. If you can hear the sound, you can check the 2 bands in the following:
https://image.pushauction.com/0/0/dce5012a-1758-4291-8a6d-52d646eb6789/d770b77d-524c-47b5-8e88-6454abf03318.jpg
Here is the video for you to check how to unplug one band:
you can follow it to check another bands.
5. If the step 4 don't help, you can check the unplug the core chip, and then plug it aigan:
6. If the step 5 don\'t help, please use the pin to press the RST after you reconnect the power cable. You should press the RST hole until you saw the button light is flashing
to check whether you can see the image now.”
I’ve followed the steps 1 to 3 and nothing happened, no sounds.
just got back from work and I’m gonna give a shot to no4, unplug the chip…
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
From my teardowns of my MAX10 unit (Toyota Universal + PX6 + Car Play), you have a little driver board behind the screen. It isn't the same as the picture you sent as mine is a universal type unit. On yours all the buttons are off the big pcb board and the driver board is soldered onto that (so not physically removable without some soldering). But if the buttons light up then your unit is turning on somewhat. So what I can see from step 4: #2 is the ribbon connecting the screen driver board to the mainboard; #3 is ribbon connector for the lcd display panel, #1 is your CPU board. There's a photo translator app on google play if you want to give that a try with the labels in Chinese.
Best of luck with this mate. The HDMI out is a mini HDMI connector on the CPU board - see if you can get that to display something on a spare screen (on later units they just have a cable to that directly and they sell it off as having hdmi out). If it doesn't output anything then your CPU is potentially dead at this point. There is an STM32 microcontroller (i.e. the MCU) on the amp board and that can be powering up the button lights.
That "driver board" that @nxdesign refers to is the TFT board that Dasaita provided a replacement when my unit died. I could tell that my particular unit was at least booting up as I could see that it was pairing with bluetooth on my phone. I tend to believe OP's problem is either CPU or MCU failure - perhaps thermal related. These units don't provide adequate cooling.
You're welcome to send it to me in NZ, I often get SOMs sent to me for repair and would be happy to look at your unit. Failing that, suggest warranty.
nxdesign said:
From my teardowns of my MAX10 unit (Toyota Universal + PX6 + Car Play), you have a little driver board behind the screen. It isn't the same as the picture you sent as mine is a universal type unit. On yours all the buttons are off the big pcb board and the driver board is soldered onto that (so not physically removable without some soldering). But if the buttons light up then your unit is turning on somewhat. So what I can see from step 4: #2 is the ribbon connecting the screen driver board to the mainboard; #3 is ribbon connector for the lcd display panel, #1 is your CPU board. There's a photo translator app on google play if you want to give that a try with the labels in Chinese.
Best of luck with this mate. The HDMI out is a mini HDMI connector on the CPU board - see if you can get that to display something on a spare screen (on later units they just have a cable to that directly and they sell it off as having hdmi out). If it doesn't output anything then your CPU is potentially dead at this point. There is an STM32 microcontroller (i.e. the MCU) on the amp board and that can be powering up the button lights.
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Thank you for your help mate !
I couldn’t find this hdmi connector on the board. The seller is telling me it’s probably the core board and said the shipping cost isn’t worth it to send it back to them. Is there a different way to check the display ???
MrPoopyButtOle said:
Thank you for your help mate !
I couldn’t find this hdmi connector on the board. The seller is telling me it’s probably the core board and said the shipping cost isn’t worth it to send it back to them. Is there a different way to check the display ???
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A dead coreboard will mean you have a shell of a unit. Can they sell you a fresh coreboard? Or even better give you a new unit at a discount? Who knows what else might have been damaged with the heat.
Just an update on this. The unit was sent to me and received today.
The root cause was that the SOM was non-booting. Recovering the SOM via MASKROM has restored the unit.
The SOM has no additional heatsink or cooling, and this may have been a contributing factor.
can u tell me how do u fix it?? i also have same problem....?
Nothing worked after I did everything the merchant suggested. What was the lifespan of your unit? I'm wondering if I should just get a new one, but it's a pain because I just had it for two years and it was the top of the line (at the time).