Mitsubishi Lancer Dasaita HCT-PX30 (Rockchip RK3326) [RCA/LINE & SUB Outputs Not Working] - MTCD Android Head Units General

Hi,
I tried to connect my sub-woofer amp to my Dasaita headunit but the RCA/LINE outputs (which are labelled in english "FRONT L OUT" and "FRONT R OUT") have extremely weak signals. I also tried using the SUB wire (which is a green female RCA connector) but it was exactly the same and was too weak.
I then checked these output connectors by connecting my oscilloscope and having a look what was going on, and they were only at ~300mV which is ridiculously low.
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Why are they so weak and how can I increase them. Is there a setting in the Android menu I can change perhaps or is there a hardware modification I can do on the circuit board? Maybe I need a DSP module. I literally have no idea at this stage but any help or advice would be appreciated as I've done an intense Google search and I have only found several topics from users who have the same problem, but there is no solution.
The only next real idea I have would be for me to splice into the front left and front right speakers, but I really don't want to go splicing wires and then have to deal with the sub then 'popping' everytime I go to start the car. I'd rather have the headunit drive the outputs correctly.
Thanks.

Bump.

Crystal ball is blank. We could enter a guessing game
Post detailed info about head unit after contacting seller support

I tried contacting support but I cannot get a response from them.
What I've done in the meantime is drive my sub gain up to max and remove my high level line converter. I get a little more bass now, but it's still a bit weak. I cannot control it in the amplifier application either (dragging the slider does nothing even if I had it connected to the green [SUB] wire output) so I have to use the sound balance option instead and move the audio more towards the rear speakers to get more bass because I'm using the [REAR L OUT] and [REAR R OUT] connections. The lack of [SUB] out controlability might be a ROM (firmware) problem, but I don't want to go experimenting and changing ROM versions because I'll lose all my settings and data. As for the weak [REAR L OUT] and [REAR R OUT] voltages, that would most likely be a hardware problem (I do see 10K pulldown resistors in the schematics which might need to be lowered to a lower value).

Related

[REVIEW] My latest bluetooth accessory: Clarion VX709

Should be self explanatory what this is!
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I bought & had installed my first custom stereo (with new alarm!) in a vehicle in 15yrs. My last one was stolen & I've been apprehensive since. I just got tired of having an antiquated radio!
Bluetooth profiles supported: A2DP/AVRCP/HFP/OPP
OPINION: WORKS GREAT! Sound quality is good on a call. Poeple on the call could hear me no problem. It sounds like they're by my feet when hearing them talk. No big deal.
Control is great. About the same .5-.75 sec delay from button push before a response as the BH-214. It feels faster though. I had my buddy in the car & I handed him my phone & he was selecting songs & they were playing no problem.
The quality of audio over bluetooth is waaaaay better than I expected. I'm pleasantly surprised there. I can not hear any odd artifacts like compression or digitalization of the sound. I can hear a distinct difference of audio quality when using Pandora though. Pandora sounds almost like AM transmission.
It also works great in USB mode too. If I connect my cable, it charges the phone (pleasant surprise) and reads the ID3 tags. It does NOT read the ID3 tags over BT, but I guess that's a limitation of BT or the supported profiles?
Overall, it's a great accessory for my EVO & I'm using it more for listening to Mp3s than FM! I could get an XM or Nav addon for the Clarion too. The neat thing is, I can setup a destination on the Google Nav & it reads the directions out over BT too. I dig that. Almost makes the nav addon pointless & less expensive by $200!
The only downside to this experiment was that the '94-'96 Impala SS does NOT have the ability to support double din stereos without modification. I had to buy a kit ($170) just to mount the stereo, then spend about 2-3 hours modifying the dash and bezel to fit.
Here you can see some of the epoxy (lower left) & exposed cuts (across top):
Here you can see the extra space on the bottom, but the face needs to swing down some to open/close:
Prior to cutting the center section & disconnecting the AC controls:
Backside of the AC controls for reference to reconnect, in case I forgot:
yeah, I rock a Kenwood DNX-9140 In my truck, Love it.

[Q] bluetooth hands free and audio receiver

hi. first of all i've read the forum rules about questions but i'm still not sure if i should post here or in q&a since this is both a question and it's related to accessories. if this is the wrong section please move the thread.
anyway i'm going to buy a bluetooth hands free for my car to replace my old headset. since i always listen to music from my phone when in my car i was thinking about buying an hands free that also supports a2dp. i searched for some time both here in xda and on the internet but i'm still not sure what to buy.
firt of all a list of what i'm pretty sure i will or will not need on it:
integrated microphone, possibly with noise cancellation or a mic in connector or something similar, anyway i prefere not to use the phone mic
integrated speaker is not needed at all, i plan to use it only with the car speakers
keys for music control on the receiver are not needed
integrated voice controls or any other integrated function are not needed at all, i prefere to use the phone functions directly
now a list what i'm not sure about.
first of all is bluetooth 4.0 needed? i heard that if both the phone and the receiver have bt 4.0 i will have better audio quality and less battery drain, is it true?
i'm not sure about what i prefere about the internal battery and the cables. i prefere to have less cables as possible, but usually this kind of decives have unified cables only if the cable is built in both in the device and in the car charger. also they usually don't have internal battery. even if i don't think to use it outside my car i don't like the idea to have fixed cables. also an integrated battery will allow me to use it even if the engine is stopped.
i had tons of other questions before starting to write this post but now i forgot most of them, anyway i will update the post as soon as i remember them, in the meantime can you post both suggestions about my doubts and product suggestions?
anyway at the moment my best choices are:
GOgroove SMARTmini AUX
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Kinivo BTC450
what do you think about them?

iClever® IC-BTS02 Portable Bluetooth 4.0 Speaker Review

Bluetooth speaker is one of these accessories that you can find absolutely useless, but you will love it once you use it for the first time. It's a perfect "boom-box" for small parties or a nice gadget that makes your house cleaning less boring. Today I put my hands on one of the best cheap Bluetooth speaker available on the market – the iClever IC-BTS02. It's not a professional review, as I don't have the required hardware to measure the output or frequency. This "review" is more an opinion.
iClever IC-BTS02 is not a big device. The device can be easily hidden in the pocket as it's dimensions are 64.5x64.5x70.1mm. It weights only 261g, so it's not the heaviest speaker. In the box you will find a speaker and the AUX cable. There is no charger available, but you can use every microUSB charger available for smartphones. This small 5W does some really impressive job not only indoors, but also outdoors. It's loud, basses are great and the distortion level is very low, considering the size of the device.
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The only flaw I have found is the speaker placement, as it throws the audio upward rather than spreading it around. The volume controls are also placed unusual, as you can find them under the speaker. The only button available on the front panel is the phone button. You can also control the speaker from your phone or tablet. Sound delay via Bluetooth isn't big, but watching the YouTube video without AUX cable makes it a bit out of sync.
The range of the Bluetooth is also good if you don't have too many walls in your apartment. I experienced some sounds dropouts when I was going to another room ~7m (23 ft away). My overall experience with the range was rather good.
Connecting the device to phone is a piece of cake. All you need to do is flicking the power button and finding the speaker in your Bluetooth available devices menu. Connection takes just a few seconds. Speaker is able to remember up to eight devices. You shouldn't have any problems to connect the device. It will connect to the last paired device available.
Pros:
price
small size
quite good sound quality
Cons:
signal can drop from time to time

Distortion on RCA out

Hi,
I know the MTCE are not known for their sound quality but anybody have distortion on RCA level out? Even set the gain at the amplifier to minimum I get distortion when the volume slider goes higher than 20.
Why is that? I also feel like frequency response sucks on the RCA.
Is speaker level better from your experience?
Will a line driver help in this case?
Thank you for your time!
Laurent
Maybe your rca s are like mine and have a groundloop.
If your amp has highlevel input, id try using them
Had the same issue. Went with a AudioSource Matrix Line driver that definitely helped a lot in Sound Quality. Not where I wanted, after the line driver there was still a little noise so I got noise filters and gone (ground loop isolators are the same thing). Noise was gone but sound was not there completely. So I went with a JBL DSP. night and day. So clean coming from a crappy Android Unit. lol. I dont care what anyone says. these android units are the best way to go. Just need to beef them up at the outputs to get them sounding amazing.
What do you mean by a "JBL DSP"? Is it a JBL Amp with DSP capabilities or just a straight DSP? Are you still using the RCA line-level outputs or did you end up using the speaker-level outputs?
Thanks.
jtrosky said:
What do you mean by a "JBL DSP"? Is it a JBL Amp with DSP capabilities or just a straight DSP? Are you still using the RCA line-level outputs or did you end up using the speaker-level outputs?
Thanks.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Stand alone DSP.. I went with Audio Control Matrix to JBL Stand alone DSP. I used the RCA's but some noise filter on my single input to the line driver and then used the line driver to convert the signal since my line driver is also an EQ.. One (front) input and pushes my three outputs (Front, Rear and Sub). Sounds great but I recommend doing all three inputs and outputs. It boosts sound quality. I am waiting another set of interconnects to change from single input to three inputs.
Ok, thanks for the clarification. I gave up completely on my Eonon-branded Android 8 MTCE unit. Between the noise-related issues and the overall sound quality, I just wasn't happy with it. The WinCE unit I was coming from (Dynavin N7) just sounds *considerably* better, even when using the same external Kicker auto-tuning DSP amp and all of the same wiring in the car. So I've re-installed the WinCE unit and will use the Eonon for another project (creating a portable wooden "boombox" with the Eonon as the main "control center" and some component speakers I had laying around. Should make a nice portable do-it-all, touchscreen Android "media center".
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FM Tuner question

I recently purchased a Hizpo Android headunit with 9.0 it has 4gb of RAM and 64 internal storage. Anyway my question is, I noticed that the mp3's audio seems to sound alot better than just the FM Tuner. The FM audio sounds really weak. Is there any adjustments I can make to the settings or is that just the way it is. I have a 10 inch kicker Sub that is self amplified and sounds good on the mp3's but on the Tuner it is almost non existent. I don't have the external remote gain for the Sub, but is that what I need to get the sound closer to where the mp3's sound? The unit is installed in a 2007 Ford supercrew cab truck.
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Sent from my SM-A705MN using Tapatalk
Sometimes you need a signal booster like this and blue wire needs a 12v+
with-style said:
Sometimes you need a signal booster like this and blue wire needs a 12v+
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi,
I have looked on amazon.ca and wasn't sure which of the several units were what you were recommending.
There was a Mr Ho product with many positive reviews. here is a link;
https://www.amazon.ca/Mr-Ho-Antenna...ar+radio+signal+booster&qid=1605705299&sr=8-9
Can you share details on the product you recommended ?
Perhaps a web link or product name etc.
Thanks From Nova Scotia,
I've seen this.
with-style said:
Sometimes you need a signal booster like this and blue wire needs a 12v+
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I used to have a cheap unit that I got from Ebay. It worked well enough to watch live TV through using PDA net. Great for long drives. My boss and I watched a Monday night game when we had to make a five hour drive. Be careful though. My TV service was noticeably lower than the MP3 volume and equalizer effect. I had to get a get an app to fix the issue. This was on an Android 4.2 and it was five years ago. I do know that they have apk's that balance the sound. Another option is to look at the code. Its not too difficult to figure out. This morning I found the one on my phone that sets the Bluetooth volume way low when it is channeled through a speaker. It was in the ".etc" file. Coders usually do a fair job at labeling each section. It was easy to see that the headphone, call, and hearing aid were all set with maximum values of 4800 with steps for each volume reference at double the speaker that was set at 2800. Careful with this though. If you're driving the sound through an amplifier, as I think you are and should with 10" subs, then you stand a chance of burning up the amp and/or blowing the speakers if you put too much out from the head unit pre-amp. Its better to adjust the MP3 down rather than the FM up.

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