Hello,
I dropped my Touch Pro 2 in fresh water. No insurance of course and no more discount from T-mobile to buy a new phone.
Following video instructions on youtube I disassembled it, I believe without breaking anything.
The LCD screen was gone (water inside), and I bought a new one in eBay.
Once I received it I reassambled the phone. Evertyhting seems to work fine but... the screen is stuck in landscape!
Of course I did soft and hard reset, tried to play / disable the G-sensor and orientation sensor, nothing: I believe it has to do with some switch that recognize when the keyboard is slide open, but I have no idea what sensor is it, I can't find any mechanism that resemble a micro switch or a mini magnet related to the opening / closing of the keyboard. Instead I find a microswitch that senses when the pen is inside, but nothing about the screen.
Any suggestion, does anybody here have any hardware knowledge on this topic? I tried to use software like Gyrator 2 which put a patch on the problem, but I would rather fix the hardware first: perhaps I did not mount something correctly, where is this sensor, is it magnetic or microswitch, I can't see anything even with lenses on.
thank you all in advance
....
I have exactly same problem, my TP2 is stuck in landscape mode. I bought TP2 in the US. My housing was broken so I bought a new one in europe the oem one with lcd screen and digitizer... Could this make the problem?
I am pretty sad, I dont want to buy a new phone :S
The sensor must be in the screen-half of the phone underneath where the red "end call" button is. This is demonstrated if a healthy phone is slid open, and then you pass a small magnet underneath the screen in that area, screen will flip between portrait and landscape.
Which yes I did the same thing today and it was your post randell that helped me. All you need to do is go to walmart purchase the smallest but most powerful smallest magnet you can find. cut you a piece of it, superglue it to the bottom right corner. worked like a charm.
or if you wanted to open your case back up like i did you can superglue it on the inside lol. If you look at your old case you will find your old magnet you can use. simple easy just thought id let you know k bye ta ta.
sabwjawdjw said:
which yes i did the same thing today and it was your post randell that helped me. All you need to do is go to walmart purchase the smallest but most powerful smallest magnet you can find. Cut you a piece of it, superglue it to the bottom right corner. Worked like a charm.
Or if you wanted to open your case back up like i did you can superglue it on the inside lol. If you look at your old case you will find your old magnet you can use. Simple easy just thought id let you know k bye ta ta.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
thank you verrrrrrrryyyyyyyyyyyy muchhhhhhhhhhhhhhh
thank youuuuuuuuu
I was on here by chance and I had the same issue when I replaced my digitizer on my TP2 a year ago. I could never figure it out so I bit bullet and brought a new phone. I will try this when I get home and if it works be great because i loved that phone soo much when I had it thanks guys!!
Related
Hi
Got my TP2, not sure you are having the same strange thing like me.
When I take out my TP2 from the magnet pouch, it will turn on itself.
I know you might think i accidently pressed some button... .. so i do a test and turn off my TP2 as usual and then just move my pouch back and fort next to my phone, and it turn on again.
Now I have to use a non-magnetive pouch.
Do you having the same experience?
Like old crackberrys when taking out of the belt clip it turns on...
wierd...never heard of it
confirmed here to...
i called it an undocumented feature.
the old htc wizard use to rotate the screen while in the pouch to.
faria said:
confirmed here to...
i called it an undocumented feature.
the old htc wizard use to rotate the screen while in the pouch to.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ha! so Funny!!!
Maybe it is good too, beside you going to turn it on anyway when you took it out from your pouch :> ... So it turn it on for you.
Agreed, undocumented feature.... hahahahahahah
I've also noticed this but I'm not using the magnetic case as I need a belt clip, I'm using the old case from my Tytn2 which has a velcro closure. I also thought it was a clever feature like the way the light sensor turns off the touchscreen when you hold the phone to your ear when in a call.
Here is a video of this phenomenon
http://www.vimeo.com/5063985
maartenschenk said:
http://www.vimeo.com/5063985
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Nice magic but mine doesnt hv that undocumented feature..
confirmed ...
great feature! ;-)
Good. I am not alone.
I think I have this figured out.
I think the keyboard uses a magnet to detect when it is deployed, and that is what is being tripped by the cases' magnetic clasp.
After playing about with the case, trying to find all the ways to turn my TP2 on with it, (never turns on inside the case, mine is nowhere near as magnetic on the inside as it is on the outside) i found that the magnet can also rotate the screen disabling the onscreen input at the same time, just like when the keyboard is deployed.
If my theory is correct, then if you can find a way to disable the power on with keyboard slide (has anyone figured this out already?) then your problems with the case should be solved.
Or you could try and demagnetising the magnet a bit, perhaps your magnet is mega-powerful and thats why its able to trip the sensor while inside the pouch.
Same kind of problem here, that keylock opens when device it put to holster. And I have got couple of "angry" calls about "can't you use the keylock".
Luckily this "slide to unlock" keylock works little better, but still isn't the best solution.
Woohoo! Mine does it too!
Strangely though, it does seem to happen on my friends Vodafone branded TP2...
Oh, and off course the "nicest" thing is, that puches that came with TyTN2 and Touch Pro2 (and TyTN, if I remember correctly) contains magnets that open keylock/turn power on. Maybe there should have been little more thinking/hardware testing when that kind of accesories are decided to put in package.
And otherwise Touch Pro2's pouch is pretty useless, because it doesn't have belt clip, and it's "too thick" (compared to eg. Nokia's E71 pouch) to use with phone just in pocket.
Whoaa.. mine does too..
Just curious, try to enable the sliding sound, And you'll notice that when you put magnet on it, the sound plays.
Maybe the magnet triggers some sort of keyboard sensor..
anyone knows how to keep the phone standby even if the keyboard is opened?
Mine does not switch on when I take it out of the pouch. But it does switch on when I wave the pouch over the bottom corner like in the video.
I usually put the TP2 LCD facing in, but I tried with it facing out and it still does not switch on... strange
BTW, I feel the original case that came with the unit is too tight. Kinda hard for me to take the phone out. I'm using the original TyTn 2 case. A little loose, but can be tightened with the velcro...
If you want to disable the "wake up when the keyboard slide", check this post : http://forum.ppcgeeks.com/showpost.php?p=1093353&postcount=37
It solved the problem with my magnetic leather pouch.
vakbrain said:
If you want to disable the "wake up when the keyboard slide", check this post : http://forum.ppcgeeks.com/showpost.php?p=1093353&postcount=37
It solved the problem with my magnetic leather pouch.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks very much - that sorted it...
Rgs,
J
mines turns on as well. i have a vertical type case. when i place the tp2 into the pouch it cuts on. if i place it in upside down it doesnt. seems odd that orientation affects it...
Hey Guys,
I think Ghostifish has this thing completely figured out. There's definitely magnets inside the phone. I discovered this one by putting my phone down on my desk at work close to a couple of paper clips. When I picked it up, it grabbed the clips with it!! Four of them to be exact. At first I was a little started (thinking jeez, the magnetic fields off this thing must be frying my brain! ) But then realized that it was probably a lot like my i760 which also used a magnetic retention mechanism to hold the phone open or closed instead of a spring that would be prone to breaking.
Just FYI.
Dustin
I have a hardware question, where is the sensor located that knows if the keyboard / slider is in the open or closed position?
Fixing a friends touch pro 2 that was pretty bad off, I have everything back to normal EXCEPT it is constantly stuck in Landscape and a ROM flash / hard reset / soft reset is not working.
This phone was out of warranty and my buddy basically said to fix it or he was going to throw it out in the trash. I couldn't let that happen and dumped 150$ worth of parts for a new flex cable / digitizer / lcd.
the ui orientation id is what flips it with the keyboard, htcs g sensor (sensorsdk4) is what controllers is when doing it by accelerometer. i would recommend a hard reset and see if that fixes it. if not, its most likely hardware and you might be screwed.
Keyboard slider is by a magnet. I believe it is in the area of the stylus hole. If you slide out the keyboard and go landscape, you can take a strongish fridge magnet and put it on the underside of the screen near the bottom center and the screen will flip back to portrait.
kierandill said:
Keyboard slider is by a magnet. I believe it is in the area of the stylus hole. If you slide out the keyboard and go landscape, you can take a strongish fridge magnet and put it on the underside of the screen near the bottom center and the screen will flip back to portrait.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you for narrowing it down!
ah yeah i remember that. i swear old htc slidey keyboard devices didnt use magnets like that, but oh well.
Update: I have used a magnet to get the phone to switch from landscape to portrait, however this does not work on its own. It is possible that the magnet was lost during disassembly, Any suggestions to get this phone working 100% again? Anyone know of a replacement part or any further information on how to remedy this?
I have no idea what size magnet you need, but I can get you some very small strong magnets if you need.
daganb said:
I have a hardware question, where is the sensor located that knows if the keyboard / slider is in the open or closed position?
Fixing a friends touch pro 2 that was pretty bad off, I have everything back to normal EXCEPT it is constantly stuck in Landscape and a ROM flash / hard reset / soft reset is not working.
This phone was out of warranty and my buddy basically said to fix it or he was going to throw it out in the trash. I couldn't let that happen and dumped 150$ worth of parts for a new flex cable / digitizer / lcd.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have the exact same problem after replacing the flex cable, digitizer, and LCD. I have no clue how to fix this problem.
Same problem...changed lcd,digitizer and flex cable.....and now phone is always in keyboard open position......
+1 Here, same problem I lost a few pieces perhaps one of them was a magnet
Is there a program that we can use the Accelerometer (G-Sensor) to let the screen tilt??
No fixx yet? Please someone
Put a 0.2 x 0.2 cm magnet (I used the magnets that are holding DVD laser lens) on the underside of the main board, glue it right on the middle of the silver band you can see between the stylus and the mini USB plug.
Some boards have audio plug some not, the magnet must be placed at same place.
Has anyone tried this yet and does it work? I have the same problem with my TP2 after replacing the flex cable, digitizer/touch screen.
Let me know.
Thanks
Rob
Yep I tried it just now and it WORKS!!!!
Thanks so much for this photohelp. Very handy.
Mine problem was not lost magnet, but replacable housing. I bought complet housing (all plastic parts) on eBay and it fits nicely. Problem is, the magnet in this housing was too weak. I brought the old housing from bin where I threw it away after assambly and replaced the new magnet with the old one.
WORKS LIKE A SHARM!
My phone has been going great and giving no issues. Byt the other evening suddenly the toicuh screen stopped being responsive!!! Totally randomly. No drop or spil or anythign like that, no new software or roms recently.
When you open it the keyboard still lights up, and after a hard reset, you can navigate a bit using the keys. But ZERO response from the screen!!!
As i say, this is even with a hard reset!!! I also tried using masking tip to pressure the screen in case somethign was stuck.
Ok it mighty be the digitiser, or a loose connection. Im hoping not.
Has anyone experienced this or similar and is tehre anythign else i can try before i take the plunge and get someone to look at it??? (its out of warranty unfort)
Ouch
Sorry to hear. It happened to me months back. It started with very uncalibrated clicks... making corner clicking impossible to compensate for.
I've recompensated, but that didn't last long - and it eventually degraded to no touch screen. With insurance, I did get a refurbish for my woes.
I flashed Stock ROM and relocked. No luck.
I'd still back up everything.
Reformat SD card.
Reflash stock ROM
Relock the device - all to see if it helps.
I did have a similar recent problem - but in this case it's because I was using a clip on hard case front that must've been putting pressure on the touch screen.
Hopefully one of these helps you out. Good luck
When my screen stopped responding it was due to a more physical thing.
I read this somewhere and tried it, worked instantly!
You have to get your finger nail under the screen (try pushing your nail into the edge of the screen from the side) and lift the screen up a bit.
This worked for me. If you think its a physical and not software issue give it a shot.
I have had the same problem.
I bought new touch screen on ebay (about $15) and after replacement the device works well.
stop everything !!!!!
if you have Google G Mail set up on your phone remove it and it will fix it's self
somthing google / G mail is doing the tilt 2 doesn't like
causing the "Sleep Of Death"
Hi guys
I have tried all the above
Last resort is i got sprite backyup to work
BUT HOW THE HELL DO YOU HIT "NEXT" OR "OK" FROM THE KEYBOARD AS SCREEN DOESNT WORK????
npahlavan said:
When my screen stopped responding it was due to a more physical thing.
I read this somewhere and tried it, worked instantly!
You have to get your finger nail under the screen (try pushing your nail into the edge of the screen from the side) and lift the screen up a bit.
This worked for me. If you think its a physical and not software issue give it a shot.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Woohoo! It worked for me too!
Below is one more post on this topic from another forum:
Originally Posted by p38fln View Post
Well, I finally figured out how this is happening - the digitizer is GLUED on to the phone's plastic case. The glue is like rubber cement, not rigid like super glue. Eventually, the glue lets the screen slide into the center of the phone, until the digitizer actually touches the screen - and then, the digitizer stops working.
It's actually very simple to fix - slide a finger nail under the plastic by the speaker and gently pry the digitizer up. Then, put it back. You dont need to remove it totally from the phone. It will flex back to its flat shape as soon as the glue releases. As soon as you stick it back down, the touch screen will work again.
Hello!
Has anyone seen a disassembly guide / dismantlling guide for an xperia play? I have had a quick look and havent seen one. A video one would be really good and one that looks at the digitizer / glass would be best for me as I seem to have broken mine already, oops!
Cheers
That sucks.
If you have Rogers they have a replacement policy. I would try that before you take it apart. Good luck. I haven't seen any guides yet. It is a pretty new phone.
You have a teardown here, it may be useful: http://www.ubmtechinsights.com/teardowns/sony-xperia-play-teardown/
I have found this, but would still like to see a video if one exists?
http://www.repairyourmobile.net/sony-ericsson-disassembly/sony-ericsson-xperia-play-disassembly/
Cheers
You can get a brand new OEM Sony Ericsson Touch Digitizer Screen on eBay from here: http://cgi.ebay.ca/OEM-Touch-Digiti...ultDomain_0&hash=item27bb11025c#ht_4868wt_905
I just ordered an OEM Xperia PLAY Black Housing Set from them and it's on its way. Funny how those "takedown" photos don't show you how they disconnected the sliding screen from the gamepad base. I got stuck at that part and have no idea how they were able to remove it. LOL
Rogers replacement policy doesn't give you the same model.... They have designated refurbished models available at no cost per person per life... You can only use it once... Unless the customer support was lying to me, that is what she told me.
Sent from my R800i using XDA App
Have you dealt with rogers before? The have no issue flatout lying to your face. I cant tell you how many times I got screwed over by those ****ers. So I get the feeling you'd be SOL
Sent from my R800i using XDA App
The only reason I switched over to Rogers was to get the Xperia PLAY for $99.99 on a 3 year agreement. I've been with Fido eversince and even though they're owned by Rogers now, I can say that Fido deals with their customers way better than Rogers does. When my 3 year agreement is done I'm going back with Fido. I already network unlocked my Xperia PLAY so if I still have it by then all I have to do is get a Fido SIM card.
Xperia Play disassembly pictures
Hey,
I am in the middle of taking apart my Xperia Play to replace the screen. Now, I got everything separated and taken apart except the screen half. I am having problem removing these silver rivets, which look like screws with a covering but the covering doesn't peel/come off. I have attached pictures of these in hopes that someone knows how to remove them.
Additionally, if anyone has experience replacing an Xperia Play screen, I'd love the advice.
Thanks in advance.
McD
Screen
Hi
Dont take the rivets OFF! If you just slide the control pad part off the metal casing you can get to the 2 screws you need to get to.
I have just finished replacing my screen and it is the scariest screen i have ever replaced as you need to go from back to front lol
I have attached a pic of my finished product, sorry i should of taken photos during it but i was shaking lol
Flava0ne said:
The only reason I switched over to Rogers was to get the Xperia PLAY for $99.99 on a 3 year agreement. I've been with Fido eversince and even though they're owned by Rogers now, I can say that Fido deals with their customers way better than Rogers does. When my 3 year agreement is done I'm going back with Fido. I already network unlocked my Xperia PLAY so if I still have it by then all I have to do is get a Fido SIM card.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I desperately hope that you did not get locked down to a 3 year agreement to just get this phone. As fun as this phone is (and likely to be used long past when I get another phone, just for Emulators and random games), it is not worth a 3 year contract. 2, I can understand. 1 would be more proper. 3 years is nuts in this industry. They have made back their offset of cost within 1.5 years usually.
Video!!
Hi
For anyone else who might benifit from this, here you go:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-3n5ZfkqhzE
Edd
eddieo said:
Hi
For anyone else who might benifit from this, here you go:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-3n5ZfkqhzE
Edd
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for that video link, I think it'll really help other people who might need to do some repairs on their own to their Xperia PLAY. I just wish that I came across that video earlier when I had to disassemble mines, I was so nervous when I was doing it cause all I had to go by where those pictures posted earlier and it left out a whole lot that I had to figure out myself.
Replacing Digitizer
Hello, Flava0ne
Do I have to take entire phone apart to replace digitizer? Is there simpler way to do it? Screen is fine - only digitizer is broken. Can it be removed from the top or bottom top access only?
Thank you
WOW sorry, too many tabs open. Wrong topic!!!
(Disregard this post)
Two questions: How far can you go without breaking a warranty seal and how many internal water damage indicators / liquid sensors are there? I just need to check since they are threatening $300 if they find anything and I work in the cold and frequently see condensation. I do avoid condensation actively and don't even allow it in the bathroom when showering.
---------- Post added at 03:01 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:03 PM ----------
OK, I went as far as I dared by completely taking apart the bottom piece (gamepad, camera, microSD slot, SIM slot, headset/remote jack, primary and secondary microphone, antennas, speakers, microUSB, etc) and, so far, I have found three. It was pretty easy up to this point and I didn't notice any kind of warranty seal.
I just removed all T6 screws from the back and lifted the catches along the bottom (headset/microUSB) side using my fingernail. One corner should be loose and you can start there and slide with no marring (didn't need my plastic pry tool). I don't know why, exactly, but the internal L & R switches are stuck to black adhesive films covering openings in this black piece but I was able to lift and unstick them without touching the films. Anyway, when you remove and flip this piece over, you should see a white square just below the mSD and SIM card slot. It's actually visible through a pinhole on the other side. If it's pink/red, you've got a problem, even if it's caused by condensation (they will still void your warranty for "water damage"). When I touched it, a plastic film on the back slipped off but stuck back on. The whole thing seems like it peels off quite easily.
Anyway, I would wiggle the power button loose before moving on. Next, there are now two tiny cross-head screws that I used a PH00x50 driver on. Yes, one of them was clearly accessible as soon as you removed the battery, but why remove it until you are ready to remove both? Once those are out, let the headphone jack dangle off its ribbon cable and lift the PCB enough to disconnect the display connector from the PCB... just stick something wide and flat in there and twist. Be careful not to damage the tiny ribbon cable that connects the touchpad area from the gamepad because it still needs to be disconnected. Now, this is OPPOSITE of how many larger but similar connectors work, so pay attention: To disconnect it, locate the tiny darker-colored flap of plastic on the opposite side of the connector from where the cable goes in. Lift it from the opposite side toward the side where the cable inserts. It will stand straight up and then you can slide the cable out. If you have to remove it, the headphone/remote jack appears to work the same way.
Anyway, this should completely free the PCB and leave the gamepad shell attached to the display. The gamepad shell should be free from the front half of the phone now as well, leaving only the sliding metal mounting bracket.
Now, a couple of interesting things here: I can clearly tell that one of the T6 screws by the volume button was protruding too far and caused a visible sliding scratch on the underside of my top shell. It may make sense to loosen these a bit on a new phone before this happens. You can also see if imperfections in the white Teflon sliding bumps are causing scratches on the front (my first phone did not, my second did in no time).
Now, let's go back to the gamepad faceplate. The buttons should easily fall out if you want them too, but I was only interested in finding the water sensors and here are two more: one is right by the microphone hole and the other in diagonally opposite under the Playstation Certified logo. They look identical to the one on the back piece.
I'm sure that there is at least one in the LCD assembly as well, but mine is well sealed and I didn't want to lift any of those silvery-gray stickers covering the screws when I have a warranty replacement on the way. I've gone far enough to satisfy my curiosity.
---------- Post added at 03:51 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:01 PM ----------
A couple notes on re-assembly:
As expected, it's a bit more difficult, especially because you don't have leverage to reconnect the display when it is in place. The last fold of the cable it supposed to fit UNDER the metal bracket and the slide mechanism doesn't really work if it isn't (a certain panel will not slide back if it is not folded under). I'm not sure how it affects it but it does. You will need a thin, long, flat utensil like a plastic butter knife or something to either A) provide leverage to connect the connector or B) tuck the cable back under the bracket after connecting it. You need to have already connected the touchpads and oriented the gamepad faceplate around/under the bracket, though it will not be secured. The phone also needs to be in the open position. When you tuck the cable under, slide it to the closed position and back. If the cable seated properly, the PCB and gamepad faceplate should sit pretty flat and should no longer be falling off of the bracket even though it isn't really secured.
The D-pad needs to be arranged properly as well. One side is cut. If you look closely, there are three holes in the four inner corners that align with three plus-shaped pegs, so you can't get it wrong if you pay attention.
The power/lock button isn't going to stay in place until you secure the bottom housing, so leave it off until just before you are ready to do that to avoid losing it.
Be careful not to seal dust in the camera lens. Don't forget to put the cross-head screws back before you do the back housing because you can't easily access one. Remember to keep the four black screws by the L, R, and volume buttons a little loose if you had a problem with them scratching the other half of the phone.
Be sure to download the Xperia Play test program from the Google Market and verify that all buttons and touch inputs function properly.
I'll be sure to wear my Looxcie next time.
I feel sorry for you blokes taking apart the xperia
it's going to be a royal pain in the ass. especially when you reach that "point"
the point where you have **** all over the table and you are like god how did i get this deep into disassembly
then the part when you are shaking / nervous about breaking a part, or worse yet. you end up breaking it. i would be real scared lol.
all i can say is go real slow. REAL slow
and if anything wont move. dont force it lol
Hogwarts said:
I feel sorry for you blokes taking apart the xperia
it's going to be a royal pain in the ass. especially when you reach that "point"
the point where you have **** all over the table and you are like god how did i get this deep into disassembly
then the part when you are shaking / nervous about breaking a part, or worse yet. you end up breaking it. i would be real scared lol.
all i can say is go real slow. REAL slow
and if anything wont move. dont force it lol
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Maybe I've just taken apart too many laptops and gadgets before but I never felt that way when I got the back piece completely apart... or maybe "that point" is only after you get into the front assembly. I did the rear in bed with the screws laying on the covers beside me and didn't even lose the arrangement of a single one.
Anyway, moments after getting my RMA replacement shipped email notification this morning, I dropped my R800at that is supposed to be getting sent back and now the touch digitizer is shattered. I've ordered a replacement but I'm hoping that I'll be sending it back with the original from the RMA replacement. Does anyone know if the R800a or R800at will fit a R800 Z1i chassis? These are all over eBay. Also, is there any tamper seal? I understand that there are screws under the silver/gray stickers on the front piece but those look easy enough to reapply.
Did I mention that they wanted to turn my RMA down for the flaking paint on the front buttons alone? The night before I called to RMA for an alarm issue (two days ago), the battery door cracked right at the pry point. I remove it more often than most because I carry a second official battery and a Sony Ericsson EP900 charger, so it failed under normal wear-and-tear, but they wanted to say that I couldn't RMA for my main issue (alarm dismisses itself) because of that EVEN THOUGH THE RMA UNITS DON'T INCLUDE A BATTERY COVER!
Damn. Sony Ericsson can be picky. I babied the thing and only just now dropped it. Perhaps AT&T is a little too cautious with the terms of Sony's warranty (it is processed through them but the rules come from Sony).
CZroe said:
Maybe I've just taken apart too many laptops and gadgets before but I never felt that way when I got the back piece completely apart... or maybe "that point" is only after you get into the front assembly. I did the rear in bed with the screws laying on the covers beside me and didn't even lose the arrangement of a single one.
Anyway, moments after getting my RMA replacement shipped email notification this morning, I dropped my R800at that is supposed to be getting sent back and now the touch digitizer is shattered. I've ordered a replacement but I'm hoping that I'll be sending it back with the original from the RMA replacement. Does anyone know if the R800a or R800at will fit a R800 Z1i chassis? These are all over eBay. Also, is there any tamper seal? I understand that there are screws under the silver/gray stickers on the front piece but those look easy enough to reapply.
Did I mention that they wanted to turn my RMA down for the flaking paint on the front buttons alone? The night before I called to RMA for an alarm issue (two days ago), the battery door cracked right at the pry point. I remove it more often than most because I carry a second official battery and a Sony Ericsson EP900 charger, so it failed under normal wear-and-tear, but they wanted to say that I couldn't RMA for my main issue (alarm dismisses itself) because of that EVEN THOUGH THE RMA UNITS DON'T INCLUDE A BATTERY COVER!
Damn. Sony Ericsson can be picky. I babied the thing and only just now dropped it. Perhaps AT&T is a little too cautious with the terms of Sony's warranty (it is processed through them but the rules come from Sony).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've always said this phone is cheaply made and now i have more proof
mine came brand new out of the box with a blemish on the screen
I'm not picky so i just kept it.
Its a blemish in the LCD screen not the digitizer or glass
and yeah the cheap ass plastic assembly is not helping either.
they should have used aluminum or something. more durable
OK, so I finished the job. I did not see any more water indicators in the top shell and I did not find a single tamper-resistant label in the entire device. I left the slider assembly intact (I think it's riveted) and I didn't peel the flex PCB out of the top shell or off of the touchoads, but it was what anyone would consider "fully disassembled." I seem to have misplaced my camera but video will be coming when I find and edit it.
i have replaced the entire casing for my wife's T7373. all seamed to go good. when the phone boots up it is stuck in landscape mode. as if it not seeing a switch or trigger to know that the keyboard is in. also the keyboard lite stays on.
i have taken the phone apart again and still i am not sure where the switch is. all i can see is the metal contact ramps on the ends of the slide.
Any help would be great. "wife not happy"
thank you
Lrd_Hawk said:
i have replaced the entire casing for my wife's T7373. all seamed to go good. when the phone boots up it is stuck in landscape mode. as if it not seeing a switch or trigger to know that the keyboard is in. also the keyboard lite stays on.
i have taken the phone apart again and still i am not sure where the switch is. all i can see is the metal contact ramps on the ends of the slide.
Any help would be great. "wife not happy"
thank you
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The sensor is magnetic that 'senses' whether or not the keyboard is open.
iFixIt.com is a great site to help with teardowns/troubleshooting.
thank you , that joged my memory. well at least i hope i can get it fixed or the wife will kill me....
I also need to replace my case, the silver colored edge has cracked in a few places. Might I ask where you got your replacement case from? Any tips you can give from your experience replacing it?
for the replacement of the silver case can you find at http://www.amazon.com/Silver-Housing-HTC-Repair-Replacement/dp/B0052QW60Y
and at http://shop.brando.com/htc-touch-pro-2-replacement-back-cover-silver_p04432c1050d039.html
i got mine off e-bay http://www.ebay.com/itm/370526944677?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649
had all the parts i needed, everything worked well. only trouble i had was the the magnet for the screen rotation. remounting the brass screw inserts was fun, what i did was use one the longer screws same size. and heated the brass up and screwed the brass insert in.
other little tips. there will be little plastic parts and need re-secured. i just heated up a end of a T25 to melt the little tabs.
have fun it took me about 2 hours and , had to take part the phone a few times to make sure i got it all right.