my Carbon Fiber vinyl wrapped Atrix 4G - Atrix 4G Accessories

Well, after as much as I loved my Samsung Captivate that I had previously wrapped in 3M Di-Noc Carbon Fiber vinyl, I decided to wrap the front and sides of my Atrix, as well as modify the back of it a bit. Here's the work done:
Wrap the entire front panel using one solid piece of vinyl, pre-cut prior to installation using templates - including the cut outs!
Cut out out the front camera hole, the speaker, the proximity sensor, ambient light sensor, and the status indicator light - then trimmed down the bottom with the microphone port - all prior to installation so as not to scratch the screen!
Wrapped over the excess on the sides to enable a better grip of the phone since the 3M Di-Noc material is TEXTURED just like real carbon fiber, then cut a relief cut on the edge of the screen so the vinyl could wrap successfully around the edge, went around it a bunch with the heat gun to seal it all up
Cut out the volume buttons but left the panel over them - we'll see how long it lasts in my pocket, but I heated it pretty well to ensure it wouldn't lift....
Wet sanded the back cover to remove the AT&T logo, the "HD VIDEO" text by the camera, and the word "blur" next to the Motorola logo for the ultimate in clean....
And now for the pics......
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You can see higher resolution pics by going to my album on Picasa:
https://picasaweb.google.com/garciam25/MotorolaAtrix4G3MDiNocCarbonFiber#
Now remember.... I am not taking any commissions on doing this to your phone, sorry.... the other vinyls available on eBay will just have to do because this stuff is too expensive and this was too time consuming to do for any customer, plus, I am NOT soliciting my services on here to do it, so don't ask! I do this professionally and install the material, I do NOT sell it for you to buy. Google it if you want this for yourself, but expect to spend well over the 2 hours this took me to do if you don't have any experience. Don't forget your heat gun and X-Acto knife with lots of fresh blades!
Again, all the buttons function exactly as they did from the factory. I have NO issues with this, so don't try and bash this concept because you think the buttons don't work - if they didn't work, I wouldn't leave this on! FUNCTION over FORM
What do you think? Better looking that my Captivate? Yeah, I think so too.... I am a carbon fiber junkie - if this isn't your thing, that's okay! I appreciate you being able to appreciate my hard work on the day after this phone was officially released!

That looks sick bro. I'm assuming it's 3m Di-noc film. Can you see the touch buttons when they are lit up through the vinyl?

Veeeery nice! Wish I had the patience.

loztboy said:
That looks sick bro. I'm assuming it's 3m Di-noc film. Can you see the touch buttons when they are lit up through the vinyl?
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It sure is 3M - first line of the original post - and no, you cannot see the softkeys. I liked my Captivate that way, especially since I used NoLED and it required you to hit the Home key in order to bring up the screen if you had received a text, email, missed call, etc, as the power button didn't work any longer. With this phone, I guess my security is a little tougher with a fingerprint scanner!
Thanks for the compliments! First day "road testing" it with my younger cousin messing with it and she went out to buy one with me after 5 minutes of messing with it, so I guess it didn't hinder much of the stock capabilities, haha

Really like the clean look on the back after you wetsanded the logo off. I'm definitely going to attempt this myself, I hope it turns out just as nice!

looks good.
any advice for trying to do the back cover? I can't get it to wrap nicely on the corners. It just seems too thick to properly pull cleanly over the rounded bits.

LaZ8787 said:
Really like the clean look on the back after you wetsanded the logo off. I'm definitely going to attempt this myself, I hope it turns out just as nice!
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I used 2000 grit and a decent amount of water from the faucet. Just take your time and remember - NEVER press too hard when wetsanding. The whole point of using such fine paper is to let the grit do the work when it's good and ready, not pressing too hard that it burns up the material you are sanding! Good luck!
cegna09 said:
looks good.
any advice for trying to do the back cover? I can't get it to wrap nicely on the corners. It just seems too thick to properly pull cleanly over the rounded bits.
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Heat gun. I could have done the back too, but I liked how it came out so far and I love the cool home desktop "dock" I have, which is more of a stand with a cord to plug in manually. The material will bend around just about anything, as evidenced by the fact that I bent the material 90 degrees around the two sides of the phone, as I applied heat to it very carefully.
Post your pics when you get stuck or done with it, I'll see if I can help remotely, haha! Just cut more than you need so you have something to grip onto, heat smoothly and evenly, do NOT overheat the vinyl, and pull it straight around the corners and edges. It can EASILY stretch too far and ruin the natural looking 2 x 2 weave of the carbon, and then you mind as well just have bought the cheap stuff....

Very nice I love carbon fiber as well
can you at least post instructions on how to remove the blur and HD logo on the back please.

RacecarBMW said:
Very nice I love carbon fiber as well
can you at least post instructions on how to remove the blur and HD logo on the back please.
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I kind of did in my last post, the post above yours, but I'll add a few things for those completely new to wet sanding altogether. As with anything, read through ALL the steps before you get so excited you'll have a phone rid of that blasted AT&T branding - inside AND out!
Things you'll need (not in bullet format because there's only three) - 2000 grit sandpaper that clearly states on it that it can be used for wet sanding, a sink with adjustable spray pressure levels, and patience!!! Wet sanding is probably the easiest way to sand, but you have to know what you're doing so as not to ruin the material you are protecting with the addition of water to the normal sanding process. If we tried this without sanding, it would require a good amount of buffing afterwards -that is, if we didn't burn right through the top, protective layer of the panel, the glossy part above the fake carbon fiber pattern!
Most important step of all - TAKE OFF THE BATTERY COVER BEFORE STARTING WORK!!!! I hope no one misses this step.....
Tear off a piece of sandpaper about 1" by 3" - the width of the paper should be around 3" so just cut or tear by folding a few times the 1" section. If you bought a square piece, grab some scissors and cut this size out.
Turn on the faucet to more than a drip and less than medium pressure. You want a steady stream but not too heavy pressure.
Hold the back panel so you can angle it such that the water runs on to it and off of it ONLY on the spots you will be sanding off! Now re-read what I just said - don't soak the whole thing in the water, just make the line of water hit the AT&T logo (or whatever else you're sanding off) and run off, not onto everything on the panel!
The water will rush off the panel because of how smooth it is. That's cool, with your other hand, rub the water onto the soon-to-be-removed logo, I use my thumb to utilize the most surface area.
Hold the paper in your hand such that the finger you are most comfortable with applying light pressure with is holding a 1" x 1" square at the end of the 3" section - this can be your thumb as it is in my case or your pointer and middle fingers together. Either way you feel comfortable NOT pressing down too hard, the better. Sometimes I've seen people not able to control the level of pressure their thumb emits, so I've told them to use their fingers instead and it has worked better for them.
Be aware of where the paper is in your hands in relation to the back panel. The reason I said to cut such a small piece is that anything bigger can "get away from you." You can easily let the paper grind up against other spots of the panel, ones that AREN'T being protected by the water! You might get the AT&T logo off, but your friends will all be saying "what happened here??" when they see a mistake.....
Wet the sandpaper thoroughly and then L I G H T L Y rub a section of the sandpaper onto the logo in a circle pattern while you alternate between 1 second under the stream of water and 3 seconds out of water. DO NOT go up and down, left and right, etc! Let the paper do the work for you and rub it every so gently.... The grit is actually strong enough to burn right through the logo and ruin the fake carbon fiber pattern below, so the lighter you press, the better chance you have of making the paper burn off just the logo and not the pattern below. You don't have to worry about JUST sanding off the logo and not touching the material - small circles about 1CM in diameter will work just fine and the water will protect the material from scratches - so don't be SO precise as to what you're sanding here!
Keep applying water! Keep up the pattern of 1 second under / 3 seconds out of water. You want it to get enough moisture between the sand paper and the material so that it doesn't scratch up the protection on the cover. Don't be afraid, as if you keep enough water between the two, you'll get it off in no time.
A Warning from Captain Obvious - items that have a lot of paint, like the Motorola logo, will take longer to remove than thin lettering like the "HD VIDEO" text! That means you have to ensure you're not burning off the protective layer below when you're sanding longer!
Once you're done with removing all that you want to remove, ensure that there aren't any traces of paint left on the outside cover by using water and / or a wet paper towel or napkin. You're not DRYING the piece just yet, you're making sure there aren't anything left on the panel that can be abrasive BEFORE drying it!
Dry the panel completely. You can do this with cool air like from a compressor (best option) or hair dryer on the cold setting, leaving outside NOT in the sun but in an area that wind blows, leaving it out to dry indoors for an hour, or a terry cloth or paper towel (both are last resort options because they can scratch up your nice work even if you don't think there's any chance they can). The point is.... give it some time to ENSURE it is dry before reinstalling it!!!
Inspect the panel. If you see some areas that look burned up or scratched, grab a clean, wet paper towel or napkin and gently rub over it. Then dry again, and then start using your fingers to rub over it and smooth it all out. You'll be surprised to see that some "blemishes" are just the oil from your skin or residue from the cleaning process!
Slap that sucker back together and post your pics!
Any questions, of course, post them here!

thanks so much! i was going to ask you for some advice. but no need now. thank you for being so thorough.

another method to remove the logo is to use a penny. took me about a minute and didnt scratch the surface.
where do you get the 3m tape? have you thought about putting it on the back cover to give it more grip?

Gonna have to try this! Thanks for the detailed instructions also! That'll prove to be very resourceful when i do this for my Atrix!

neotekz said:
another method to remove the logo is to use a penny. took me about a minute and didnt scratch the surface.
where do you get the 3m tape? have you thought about putting it on the back cover to give it more grip?
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The best place to get it from (cheap plug for the awesome staff over there) is Carbon Fiber Gear's sister website, CarbonFiberFilm.com - best prices hands down!
Someone asked earlier HOW to do the back, and I guess I didn't get into WHY I didn't do the back on mine. I kinda like the tacky fake carbon on the back of the phone! Plus, with wet sanding, it gives it a TINY bit more grip, but then again, think about where you grip the phone anyways - the sides. These sides are wrapped and have tons more grip, so I haven't dropped it since I pulled it out of the box.... a couple times.... haha!
TfzSCVang said:
Gonna have to try this! Thanks for the detailed instructions also! That'll prove to be very resourceful when i do this for my Atrix!
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You're welcome, good luck and post pics when you're done!

LaZ8787 said:
Really like the clean look on the back after you wetsanded the logo off. I'm definitely going to attempt this myself, I hope it turns out just as nice!
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Just scratch it off with a penny, took 5 seconds.

Tennis11 said:
Just scratch it off with a penny, took 5 seconds.
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another recommend on the penny method, literally took me less than 1 minute to remove "hd video, at&t, and blur", left the moto logo on there.

I couldn't get the lock and power logos off the top of the cover. I think they're different paint.

i just got the tape and cant seem to figure out how to make the outline for the sides.
i did the battery cover by putting the tape on first and then cut the holes after but i cant do that with the sides and dont want to scratch the phone.

neotekz said:
i just got the tape and cant seem to figure out how to make the outline for the sides.
i did the battery cover by putting the tape on first and then cut the holes after but i cant do that with the sides and dont want to scratch the phone.
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Just PM'd you about the same question you asked here - there isn't an outline or template you need to make first, you cut the vinyl once it is heated ON the phone, not beforehand, using an X-Acto

i just finished. i found an easy way of making an outline for the sides. i put teh tape on and then take it off which leaves a good impression of all the holes and made it easy to cut.
here's teh finished product, i did the sides and battery cover as well as my candyshell case. thanks for the great idea GarciaM25

Looking GOOD! I love that you took my idea and went one step further with the outer case! Awesome job, seriously!!!

Related

oil slick screen

had my TP2 nearly a year but recently i have noticed the screen has like a rectangle shape oil slick type mark on itvery noticable and seems to be getting worse anyone else had this??
its as though there's water under the screen protector but when i remove the SC its still there
search newton ring.
newtons ring??? kind of the case. the "oil slick" is mearly trapped condensation between the digitizer and the top plastic covering that you catually touch(the plastic you put the screen protector on). moisture seeps in through the bottom keys and earpiece in forms of vapor and liquid. this occurs when you have your phone in your pocket or use it in humidity(shower or weather)...congrats, you ve trapped your sweat lol. the reason why its rectangle is because the screen/digitizer and top plastic are not set flush together. as you know, the top plastic is very flexable so you can take your finger and feel the various componets in the empty spaces. i can confirm my finding because a few months back, i replaced my tp2 screen. i seen it had the oil slick before i opened it and before i put humpty back together again, i wiped under the plastic screen and felt a slight moist film. i tried to guess how the hell water got in and i concluded by a salty electronic taste...yeah i smelt and tasted it...that it was sweat. i always carried my phone in my front pocket and over time, the sweat built up. after a wipe with electronic cleaning cloths, an air dry and then an air can blow(i love my phone lol), i put it back together and bam...no oil slick. another way to think of my theory is, you know when you swim with your watch and condensation builds up on the inner quartz and makes it look foggy?...same thing here. only thing different is that there is only one flat surface and not 2 like inside the phone so the moisture wont look like an oil spill, it will just be foggy.
so how do i open the screen up to get rid is it easy enough to do or will bloww warm air over it do it ???
combat goofwing said:
so how do i open the screen up to get rid is it easy enough to do or will bloww warm air over it do it ???
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there are lots of vids on how to disassemble the tp2. check youtube. just to let you know, its a long process. you have to take apart the entire phone just to get to the screen...good luck.
ps i would post the vid link but im typing this off my tp2. if you cant find a good video, i will link one here later.
check my skydrive for the dissasembly doc
http://cid-fe479a288f53bea8.skydrive.live.com/browse.aspx/.Public

Free full covers for evo! (NOW WITH INSTRUCCIONS)

Here you go guys! ^_^
http://www.stealthguards.com/index.php/
UPDATE WITH INSTRUCTIONS! Posted by akastixx (Thanks dude! )
What you will need:
**A razor or an exacto knife (or a thin sewing needle or safety pin if you're a Nancy)
**Clean hands (wash that damn cheeto grease off your hands, tard!)
**Clean Evo (easy way to clean it is one tiny windex/all purpose cleaner shot to the middle of the screen. Don't even spray, just make it dribble 4-5 drops. try it on your counter before you try it on your PRECIOUS, precious.)
**A plate, saucer, or the top to a plastic container.
**No alcohol or perception altering substance in you (this is not rocket science, but you have to stay sharp to successfully complete this mission!)
**A small amount of dish soap, hand soap or detergent.
**A cup of water.
**Time. You will not get great results if you do everything at once. You can probably get away with doing this in three parts, but I'd recommend four. You'll see why later. You should also do this when you feel you won't need to make or take a call or use your phone. This will take a couple of hours.
**Optional - a cutting board and florescent lighting (it's harder to see the shapes in "yellow" light)
Part 1 (The back):
** We will start with the back. The good thing about the back cover is that there is less unnecessary protector to fight with. Clean your hands and your Evo.
**pour about as much as water you could imagine the cupped palm of your hand could hold 3-4 times on your saucer.
**Squirt about 6 drops of dish liquid into the water stir it with your finger, then dry your finger.
**Place the Evo face down on a flat surface.
**Take the back protector. Place that on a flat surface. Pick one of the three holes at the top (speaker, camera or flash) and hold it down with the tip of your blade near the top of that hole. you don't need to cut anything. with your other hand peel the protector from the top slowly.
**There will be some resistance, and it will feel like you might tear your protector but if you pull slowly, the circle should stay there.
**Put the protector back and repeat with the other circles.
**You should now have your protector halfway peeled, and the 3 circles attached to the paper, or at least not attached to the protector.
**There are two ovals on the bottom half. You will need to place your blade between the oval for the kickstand, and the protector. Your blade needs to be in that outer oval that surrounds the kickstand.
**Peel the remaining half of the protector off. Be careful not to damage the material for the kick stand.
**You should now have the back protector (minus the kickstand) off. If you got a fingerprint or two on it, it's ok, but try not to touch anything besides the corner.
**While holding a corner of the protector (with the hand you don't write with) dip it in your soap water mix sticky side down. Hold up the protector. There should be some excess water at the bottom. The corner where your fingers are should be dry, so hold the protector with your writing hand, use the excess water to wet the dry spot, and slide the protector on the plate to remove any other excess. there should just be a film of water, not any water about to drip off.
**Note --- if you have to stop at any point with protector that's already peeled, place it halfway on/halfway off your plate so you don't lose it.
**Place your protector on the back part of the Evo. For best results, you should touch the the Evo with opposite bottom corner of the protector and slowly place the rest on. (if you're holding the protector in your right hand on the right corner of the protector, lay it on the Evo bottom left first.) You will have a couple of minutes to adjust it, so take your time. If you did this correctly, you should have no air bubbles, but if you do, gently smooth them out.
**Once the back is secure, you can start on the kickstand.
**The kickstand may be a little harder to remove. if there is a spot where you can gently slip your blade in to start peeling it off the paper, go for it. Hold the blade down on the part you don't need like you did before to pull the kickstand off. If not, you will need that cutting board or something underneath the paper that you don't mind having a razor cut on.
**Using the blade, touch one of the straight edges of the oval. Turn your blade so that if you were to make a cut, it would start at that edge, but end AWAY from the oval, not into it. Make your cut. You only need a tiny cut, just enough to slide your blade underneath so you can peel like I described one step ago. If you are using a needle, poke a hole on the outside of the edge as close as you can.
**Once the kickstand is peeled, wet it and place it. it is not a perfect fit. Place it an equal distance from all sides or however you'd like, and you are good to go.
**Now you will need to leave your phone alone for at least an hour. DO NOT TOUCH YOUR PHONE FOR AN HOUR, NIMROD. Don't go celebrating with a drink, either.
Part 2 (Front):
Ok, on to the front.
**Using your blade (or your needle), touch one of the long edges of the front protector and poke or cut like I described before. Make sure you are slow and careful. You do not want to cut into your side protector pieces.
**Wiggle your blade in and pry the front up like before.
**Dip and place your protector like before (slowly, opposite end first).
**This time, you will need to wait at least an hour and a half to two hours. The material on the front is different, and it takes longer to stick.
Part 3-4 (Sides):
Last up is the sides, the hardest part. If you notice the picture above, it has all the side pieces except for one. if you look at your actual paper, the missing piece is above the rest of them. you will put this piece on last.
First I will tell you where the pieces go, then I'll let you know how to put them on.
*Top piece - It will start from the edge of the power button, and slightly wrap around the the left side of the phone (if the screen is facing you).
*Top left side piece - it will continue where the top piece left off, covering most of the left side of the phone.
*Bottom left side piece - as the name suggests, it will continue from the last piece and stop at the USB icon.
*Right piece - the skinny part will start at the HDMI logo, and come up most of the right side of the phone, stopping short of the volume button.
*Mystery piece - it goes on the right top corner between the volume and power button.
Part 3 (Left Side):
**Remove, dip and place the top piece. You will place it on the phone in the same direction you peeled it off the phone, or the same way it shows in the picture above. My method of getting these suckers on right was this. Whether you are right handed or left handed, place the piece on the top. It doesn't need to wrap around yet, just make sure it's on there. Grab the bottom half phone with your right hand with the screen facing your palm. Look at the piece you put on. Gently adjust it with your left thumb. Once it is in place, you'll need to put the phone down, screen side up, but the top of the phone facing you. Cover the phone with your left hand and firmly place your thumb on the top piece, but be careful not to move it. Use your right thumb to smooth it around the corner.
**Note - if any of your pieces dry out, just put more soapy water on it. Just don't let it dry out too many times.
**Now you will notice the piece doesn't want to go on straight, and a air bubble will form at the corner. To fix that, first take your left thumb off the phone and make sure the top part is still in place. If it is not, adjust it. Place your thumb there again and gently smooth the bubble at the corner out first with your right thumb. It may try to come back, but smooth it out gently, the same way you gently wiped away the tear of a pansy iphone user when they saw your phone. Once the bubble is out, gently adjust the rest of the piece into place. If the bubble comes back, repeat the process - rub the bubble out, and adjust the rest. If you accidentally mess up the top, you are a failure at life. Start again.
**You may not get this on right before it starts drying out. if you don't, just re-wet the piece and start over.
**Once your top piece is on, remove, dip and place the left piece. This is easy. Just make sure it starts right where the last piece left off with no space in between. Be careful not to mess up the top.
**Sit the phone down for 20-30 minutes and let it dry.
Part 4 (The rest):
**Place the bottom left side piece on like you placed the top piece - hold it down with your left, rub the bubble out with your right, adjust the rest.
**You will place the right side piece the opposite way. Place the fat part of it right by the volume button, and once you have it on, secure it with your right thumb and smooth the bubble with your left, then adjust the rest. Be careful not to mess up your other pieces in the process.
**At this point, you should probably dry your phone out again, but if you're brave, slap on that final mystery piece. It doesn't matter what had you use to hold or smooth at this point, just get that piece on!
boo 2.85 shipping
Servers are el' crasho.
i jumped all over this, and went back for my wifes moment. Servers are crashing, but after a few page reloads, I was able to get it done.
Illinois = $2.85 shipping also. Guess that's how they are making their money....shouldn't cost more than a 1st class stamp...just like eBay...they profit from shipping...make you think your getting a deal. Not that this is a bad price for a full set but maybe 2 sets id order...
I don't know if the servers crashed but when you go to enter the expiration date of your credit card, the year field is so smushed that it cannot be displayed on the screen. My debit card wouldn't verify, so I used my credit card.
VERY slow server.
Nice find, I just ordered one.
sweet, i think imna order another after the free offer is over just to support them.
Just bought a carbon fiber phantom skinz 2 days ago and saw this and bought it. I'm good on covers for now hahaha. GOOD FIND!
+1 Great find man.
Even though I just ordered one, how good are the cases lol? Anybody have any prior experience with them?
@sprink- Dude, their not making *any* money from this or shipping (ok, they will have positive income considering it doesn't cost 2.85 to send one but it's not a significant amount). Their going to make money by the increased publicity this will give them; people will remember their the one's that gave away free covers. And after that, people will just return to them or refer other's to them when they need more covers.
edtate said:
+1 Great find man.
Even though I just ordered one, how good are the cases lol? Anybody have any prior experience with them?
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pretty sure they are relatively new, they still offering free protectors for the palm pre or htc hero. its $3, cant really go wrong with that price, but the normal $15 is still a bargin compared to $30 for invisoshield or $20 for ghost armor.
edtate said:
Their going to make money by the increased publicity this will give them
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i just hope their bandwidth improves.. the website won't load
+1
Thanx just ordered 2, paid $4.88 for shipping only.
Well worth the price.
@shift_ Refresh CONSTANTLY
Alright, here's a review I found originally posted by bjbarr on sprintusers.com since I couldn't find any anywhere:
Here is my review:
the front and back skin fit pretty good. the cutout around the kickstand at the bottom is a tad too big but doesn't show to a point that it will be a problem.
the one thing I haven't figured out is the cutouts for the sides. They just don't seem right to me as the one I think is for the volume buttons doesn't really cover the whole side, in other words there is no cutout for the volume buttons. And I haven't figured out the one for the bottom around the mic.
I guess I just won't put anything there and same goes for the sides. I jsut may go ahead and order from BSE and give them a try as I have always been pleased with their skins but like yellotootr said that they probably all come from the same manufacturer and I am leaning toward that same thought, especially the cheaper ones anyway.
Which ever sensor that is to the right of the phone has no cutout but to the left of the earpeice has a cutout and for what??? Makes no sense but I am beginning to think that these skins are for another phone but can be used for the Evo but I haven't been looking to see what other phone they may fit.
They were easy to install though, but I don't think I got all the air bubbles out of the back skin but sometimes they just disappear over night. Guess I will find out tomorrow but I probably won't replace it just for that. It does disturb me that the corners and sides aren't protected because it seems those are the places that get scuffed the most.
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Ordered
10char
In on this one. I have that too good to be true feeling. We'll see.
edtate said:
+1 Great find man.
Even though I just ordered one, how good are the cases lol? Anybody have any prior experience with them?
@sprink- Dude, their not making *any* money from this or shipping (ok, they will have positive income considering it doesn't cost 2.85 to send one but it's not a significant amount). Their going to make money by the increased publicity this will give them; people will remember their the one's that gave away free covers. And after that, people will just return to them or refer other's to them when they need more covers.
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you are right.... I just hate inflated shipping prices. Just wish these companies would charge actual shipping costs that's all. And yes word of mouth goes a long way.. also though sometimes companies get defective stuff in bulk at little or no cost to them and can't really sell them so they give them away and make money on the inflated shipping that won't be refunded.
ordered also! great find!
thanks for the link; order 4 total (2 evos and 2 blackberries); they also have lifetime warranty so that's a plus
ty. got 2 evo guards and 2 ipod guards for ~10 shipped.

White housing

If I told you guys I was making white housing for our Cappy's, would you guys be interested in buying it?
It's not available anywhere, but I made one for myself and it looks great!
I was thinking of charging $40.....trying to get some idea of how many people would be interested.
Let me know!
Sent from my Cappy using Tapatalk
Just remember, if and/or when you start to sell these, you need to do it in the Marketplace, not here.
Just my own opinion here, but I'm not loving it. The fact that the sides are white, but the backplate is still black doesn't look good. The front would look better if the top and bottom were also white. It would make the whole thing look complete.
I like the concept but I think it needs to go further.
FWIW, I've always been a jet black gadget lover. I think it looks sleek and refined. White just always made me think back to the old white/beige PCs of yesterday.
i would absolutely buy one, ive been scouring the internet for them for months now
Top and bottom of the front white would look better. White lettering on the back too maybe?
ill buy for $40 maybe a bit more, it just past my bday so i gots money to spend.
Pm me if you want.....
40 seems a little expensive for my liking. And it looks like to me that all you were doing was just adding a vinyl skin ontop of the phone.
Although if you were to make one for the whole phone I think 20-30 would be more than enough of a fair price for one.
actually no, i bought official Samsung replacement housing from Japan, then put 6 coats of white plastic paint, followed by 3 coats of clear. took about a week altogether.
Sent from my Android 4.0 ICS'd Cappy
I agree that i think it needs to be more white, great idea though.
WHITE? ewwww.... just my 2cents.. now a matte black finish ill bite
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I897 using XDA App
maybe if it were actually white plastic and not just white paint, also the display would have to be white also cause it just looks ugly as of now
i love the white, but like the others on here i think the whole thing should be white. and if its a white paint and not plastic isn't there going to be a chipping issue overtime?
Green?
I dont mean to hijack this thread, but I was very interested in getting a different color housing for my captivate after viewing this. After searching for a few hours for colored housings online I just decided to try what you did with the white and buy my own paint and try it out! I went with an Android Green just to match my theme on my phone (I am due for an upgrade soon anyways). I will try to update with a picture of the finished productas soon as I am done!
Partridge86 said:
I dont mean to hijack this thread, but I was very interested in getting a different color housing for my captivate after viewing this. After searching for a few hours for colored housings online I just decided to try what you did with the white and buy my own paint and try it out! I went with an Android Green just to match my theme on my phone (I am due for an upgrade soon anyways). I will try to update with a picture of the finished productas soon as I am done!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Wait...did you spray over the camera hole?
nygfan760 said:
Wait...did you spray over the camera hole?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
well.. I was smart enough to put some clear tape over the outside of the camera lens, however when i flipped it over to get the edges I was not paying close enough attention and sprayed the inside. I was able to get the paint off pretty easily though.
I did an idiot move when putting my phone back together. I was using the phone with just the sd card to take pictures and left the card in the phone when trying to fit the housing back on.. needless to say I snapped the sd card in half and it no longer works :/
Edit: I'm not sure if I'm gonna say that I am done or if I should add another coat. However I am pretty happy with the color I just need to clean it up a bit! Let me know what you all think!
Partridge86 said:
well.. I was smart enough to put some clear tape over the outside of the camera lens, however when i flipped it over to get the edges I was not paying close enough attention and sprayed the inside. I was able to get the paint off pretty easily though.
I did an idiot move when putting my phone back together. I was using the phone with just the sd card to take pictures and left the card in the phone when trying to fit the housing back on.. needless to say I snapped the sd card in half and it no longer works :/
Edit: I'm not sure if I'm gonna say that I am done or if I should add another coat. However I am pretty happy with the color I just need to clean it up a bit! Let me know what you all think!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think it'd be cool if you put a coat on everything that isn't the screen. To me it looks incomplete with the bottom of the phone(both front and rear) still black. Two coats probably isn't a bad idea! Maybe some gloss clear coat over the top to make it shiny? I like the android green choice though.
wwcjr91 said:
I think it'd be cool if you put a coat on everything that isn't the screen. To me it looks incomplete with the bottom of the phone(both front and rear) still black. Two coats probably isn't a bad idea! Maybe some gloss clear coat over the top to make it shiny? I like the android green choice though.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
well this is actually with about 3 coats and 1 "gloss" coat. I'm not sure if I used the right paint. I used the "plastic paint" which probably takes a bit longer to dry. When putting it back together I kept pulling the paint from the tail part so I decided just to completely take the paint off of that part. Also I was thinking about painting the top and bottom of the front, however I did not want to risk covering the microphone hole and the inputs at the top. I think if I hadnt rushed through it so much then I could have had a better finished product.. good thing is these housings are around 8$ on ebay so I can just buy another one and give that one a proper try!
Partridge86 said:
well.. I was smart enough to put some clear tape over the outside of the camera lens, however when i flipped it over to get the edges I was not paying close enough attention and sprayed the inside. I was able to get the paint off pretty easily though.
I did an idiot move when putting my phone back together. I was using the phone with just the sd card to take pictures and left the card in the phone when trying to fit the housing back on.. needless to say I snapped the sd card in half and it no longer works :/
Edit: I'm not sure if I'm gonna say that I am done or if I should add another coat. However I am pretty happy with the color I just need to clean it up a bit! Let me know what you all think!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Prep work is 90% of painting. The actual painting part is very quick. You should have sanded better. It looks like the paint will dry and begin flaking off if it has not already.
Well one of my friends suggested I should "wet sand" it. I've personally never heard of that but he said it will make it look a ton better, so I guess I'll try that this afternoon.
Wet sanding= sanding with water to remove particles from the sandpaper.
Start with 200 grit to really clear off the paint. Then move to 400 grit. Then move to 800. Then clean with alcohol VERY WELL.
you want it to be flat and sanded down to 800 grit across the whole piece. Don't stop with 400 grit until all the green is gone. Use 800 to polish it. The rubbing alcohol is used to clean off any particles which may stick. Douse it in alcohol.
There are better ways.. but if you're going to do all of that, may as well use a nice metal flake paint and a clear coat from your auto parts store to get it really nice. If you do the clear coat, don't stick it in your pocket for a few days.
Also, time yourself on that 1 minute shake thing... trust me. Shaking is important. Longer is better. It helps the paint to dry properly and faster.

Galaxy S3 Cracked Glass (Read this if it has happened to you!)

Ok everybody, the purpose of this thread is to dispel the MYTH that you can not replace just the front glass. Good news for my brethren who as I, have learned that Gorilla Glass hardly deserves the moniker.
My phone was dropped from a height of less than three feet with a Speck Candyshell case installed and the screen cracked. Luckily the digitizer and SAMOLED were still fully functioning. I wondered if there was a way to replace just the glass. If you take the time to google Galaxy S3 replacement glass, you will find a mixture of threads on the subject with most saying that only a professional could do so. There are a few youtube videos on the matter, including one proclaiming that it is impossible to separate and replace only the outer glass without destroying the digitizer. This simply is NOT true. Not less than one hour ago I did exactly that.
Supplies:
Replacement Glass (Can be found for less than twenty dollars complete with a plastic separator, phillips screwdriver, and 3m tape cut fit.)
Hair Dryer
Painter's Tape (Or any semi-sticky tape that won't leave residue)
Gloves
Small Flathead Screwdriver
What I did:
First I removed the back cover and battery from the GS3. I went into my small bathroom and misted it with a spray bottle in hopes that it would reduce the dust in the air. I set my wife's hair dryer to high heat and low speed. I heated the bottom corner of my phone first because there was a small chip that looked like it would be a good place to start prying the screen off. I used the small flathead to start the prying because the provided plastic separator was not sturdy enough to initiate this. You don't have to worry about scratching the display during this step because there is that nice gap between the display and the actual bottom of the phone as well as the top. So either of these two places would be an ideal starting point. As you SLOWLY pry the screen up you will notice a small gap of air forming between the glass and the display. As soon as the screen is just high enough to fit a plastic separator between the glass and display, do it. I can not stress enough, go sloooowwwww. If you do not remove the glass strategically and smoothly you will cause scratches or cracks in the SAMOLED glass (The actual display). Pry from the largest shards first. Once the screen was high enough for the separator I applied a lot of heat again, and especially focusing on the gap so more heat would reach the glue directly. Heat, pry, heat, pry, heat, pry. When the glass is almost separated resist the urge to speed up, it was hard for me too... It is OK if the original glass cracks a little more as you remove it, when this happens change spots where you are prying. The glass should come off as one sheet held by the glue and colored portions. Undoubtedly you will find tiny shards and perhaps a fleck or two of dust. This is where the painter's tape comes in. Use the tape to remove any debris off of the SAMOLED screen. Do not touch the actual display, not even with gloves. This will smudge what is left of the original adhesive and will lead to annoying marks under your glass after the process. I am not sure of a good solvent that would not damage the screen or I would have used it, mine has a few smudges under it. However, they are only visible when the screen is off. I then took the 3m tape provided with my glass and applied it to the two appropriate places on the phone. Next, I removed the backing off of the new glass and carefully applied it from the top to the bottom. I had to use my screw driver to keep the capacitive button ribbons under the new glass in their proper positions. Once the glass was on the phone I heated it all up one more time to make the leftover glue and the new adhesive softer. Then I applied firm pressure around the circumference of the phone only. I let my phone cool down and then replaced the battery and cover. Finally I turned my phone back on and enjoyed all the glory of my achievement when EVERY aspect of my phone was fully functional. My phone is now a hybrid pblue/white because for whatever reason the white glass was eight dollars cheaper than the blue glass. In my opinion, it looks great.
Ps For this operation the provided phillips screwdriver is not needed.
A couple of photos...
The original cracked blue glass after removal.
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My new hybrid phone.
The screen on and app drawer open to show that the touch still works.
It was brought to my attention that I may want to add a disclaimer.
Disclaimer: You could f*c* up your phone even more than it it already is if you do something hastily or fail to adapt your methods to a situation different than mine. All of the above as well as 99.9999 percent of f*c* ups in the universe are not my fault.
johnyardavid said:
Ok everybody, the purpose of this thread is to dispel the MYTH that you can not replace just the front glass. Good news for my brethren who as I, have learned that Gorilla Glass hardly deserves the moniker.
My phone was dropped from a height of less than three feet with a Speck Candyshell case installed and the screen cracked. Luckily the digitizer and SAMOLED were still fully functioning. I wondered if there was a way to replace just the glass. If you take the time to google Galaxy S3 replacement glass, you will find a mixture of threads on the subject with most saying that only a professional could do so. There are a few youtube videos on the matter, including one proclaiming that it is impossible to separate and replace only the outer glass without destroying the digitizer. This simply is NOT true. Not less than one hour ago I did exactly that.
Supplies:
Replacement Glass (Can be found for less than twenty dollars complete with a plastic separator, phillips screwdriver, and 3m tape cut fit.)
Hair Dryer
Painter's Tape (Or any semi-sticky tape that won't leave residue)
Gloves
Small Flathead Screwdriver
What I did:
First I removed the back cover and battery from the GS3. I went into my small bathroom and misted it with a spray bottle in hopes that it would reduce the dust in the air. I set my wife's hair dryer to high heat and low speed. I heated the bottom corner of my phone first because there was a small chip that looked like it would be a good place to start prying the screen off. I used the small flathead to start the prying because the provided plastic separator was not sturdy enough to initiate this. You don't have to worry about scratching the display during this step because there is that nice gap between the display and the actual bottom of the phone as well as the top. So either of these two places would be an ideal starting point. As you SLOWLY pry the screen up you will notice a small gap of air forming between the glass and the display. As soon as the screen is just high enough to fit a plastic separator between the glass and display, do it. I can not stress enough, go sloooowwwww. If you do not remove the glass strategically and smoothly you will cause scratches or cracks in the SAMOLED glass (The actual display). Pry from the largest shards first. Once the screen was high enough for the separator I applied a lot of heat again, and especially focusing on the gap so more heat would reach the glue directly. Heat, pry, heat, pry, heat, pry. When the glass is almost separated resist the urge to speed up, it was hard for me too... It is OK if the original glass cracks a little more as you remove it, when this happens change spots where you are prying. The glass should come off as one sheet held by the glue and colored portions. Undoubtedly you will find tiny shards and perhaps a fleck or two of dust. This is where the painter's tape comes in. Use the tape to remove any debris off of the SAMOLED screen. Do not touch the actual display, not even with gloves. This will smudge what is left of the original adhesive and will lead to annoying marks under your glass after the process. I am not sure of a good solvent that would not damage the screen or I would have used it, mine has a few smudges under it. However, they are only visible when the screen is off. I then took the 3m tape provided with my glass and applied it to the two appropriate places on the phone. Next, I removed the backing off of the new glass and carefully applied it from the top to the bottom. I had to use my screw driver to keep the capacitive button ribbons under the new glass in their proper positions. Once the glass was on the phone I heated it all up one more time to make the leftover glue and the new adhesive softer. Then I applied firm pressure around the circumference of the phone only. I let my phone cool down and then replaced the battery and cover. Finally I turned my phone back on and enjoyed all the glory of my achievement when EVERY aspect of my phone was fully functional. My phone is now a hybrid pblue/white because for whatever reason the white glass was eight dollars cheaper than the blue glass. In my opinion, it looks great.
Ps For this operation the provided phillips screwdriver is not needed.
A couple of photos...
The original cracked blue glass after removal.
View attachment 1332282
My new hybrid phone.
View attachment 1332284
View attachment 1332283
The screen on and app drawer open to show that the touch still works.
View attachment 1332285
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You should do a video tutorial and post in on youtube. Find someone with a cracked screen and offer to help. You will help many people and have tonnes of views
Wond3r said:
You should do a video tutorial and post in on youtube. Find someone with a cracked screen and offer to help. You will help many people and have tonnes of views
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Also many people will not have the OP's patience and screw up in the process.
Sent from my Pebble Blue GS3 on Tapatalk 2
Not much patience required, it only took me thirty minutes total. I just wanted to emphasize not rushing. That's a good idea for a tutorial video....... I am down.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using xda premium
johnyardavid said:
Not much patience required, it only took me thirty minutes total. I just wanted to emphasize not rushing. That's a good idea for a tutorial video....... I am down.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using xda premium
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This is awesome, and great tutorial. Just saying sooommmee noob out there is gonna crack their screen and blame you so make sure you add a disclaimer.
Sent from my Pebble Blue GS3 on Tapatalk 2
Toaster Strudels said:
This is awesome, and great tutorial. Just saying sooommmee noob out there is gonna crack their screen and blame you so make sure you add a disclaimer.
Sent from my Pebble Blue GS3 on Tapatalk 2
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Duly noted, thank you
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using xda premium
Toaster Strudels said:
This is awesome, and great tutorial. Just saying sooommmee noob out there is gonna crack their screen and blame you so make sure you add a disclaimer.
Sent from my Pebble Blue GS3 on Tapatalk 2
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Happens with ANY tutorial really. People are still bricking their s3s. People are still flashing ROMs for the international version on our phones lol
If you lived closer to the northeast Texas area, I'd pay you to do that to my phone lol
My phoen cracked in similar fashion about 3 weeks ago.
I priced aorund and the fix around my area was 350 bucks to replace the entire screen,
I ended up spending 150 bucks more and bought it new again.
Had I known this then i would have def tried it.
Dude start a business!!! I break my **** all the time
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using xda premium
I am up for replacing one to make a tutorial video. However, that would require trust on the part of the sender. Of course I would return the phone, because well, that would just be f***ed up. So, here is my offer; if anyone out there has a phone with cracked glass but fully functioning touch and display, send it to me minus the sim card, with the replacement glass, 3m tape, and the plastic separator. I will use your phone to make a tutorial video, and then ship it back to you with the couple of bucks you will provide for return shipping. If anyone is interested, pm me.
Disclaimer on this: Worst case scenario the SAMOLED will break and you will have to replace the screen/digitizer combo like originally. Likewise, I will not accept liability for any other damage to the phone, though I would take the utmost care with your device and do not expect to damage it in any way.
If nobody is interested, that is fine and I understand. However, this is not for my gain as my device is already fixed and functional. Also, the repair will be done within a week of receiving the phone so do not expect it to be returned as soon as I receive it. I am a more than full time mechanical engineering student and I have a pretty busy schedule.
Side thought: I wonder why all of the phone repair professionals say that this process is near impossible unless you are a professional like they are? For instance, this guy http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=es8gezSdKv4&feature=youtu.be . I am in no way a professional phone repairman and I typically lack finesse. Yet, this was pretty simple to me...
johnyardavid said:
I am up for replacing one to make a tutorial video. However, that would require trust on the part of the sender. Of course I would return the phone, because well, that would just be f***ed up. So, here is my offer; if anyone out there has a phone with cracked glass but fully functioning touch and display, send it to me minus the sim card, with the replacement glass, 3m tape, and the plastic separator. I will use your phone to make a tutorial video, and then ship it back to you with the couple of bucks you will provide for return shipping. If anyone is interested, pm me.
Disclaimer on this: Worst case scenario the SAMOLED will break and you will have to replace the screen/digitizer combo like originally. Likewise, I will not accept liability for any other damage to the phone, though I would take the utmost care with your device and do not expect to damage it in any way.
If nobody is interested, that is fine and I understand. However, this is not for my gain as my device is already fixed and functional. Also, the repair will be done within a week of receiving the phone so do not expect it to be returned as soon as I receive it. I am a more than full time mechanical engineering student and I have a pretty busy schedule.
Side thought: I wonder why all of the phone repair professionals say that this process is near impossible unless you are a professional like they are? For instance, this guy http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=es8gezSdKv4&feature=youtu.be . I am in no way a professional phone repairman and I typically lack finesse. Yet, this was pretty simple to me...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
And apart from asking on here, maybe you should put up an ad on your local kijiji/craigslist as well! You can make a couple bucks off it plus use it for a tutorial
Anyway we can get a link to the exact screen u bought
sent from 1 of 4 Galaxy devices
It was this one.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/16086785670...eName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using xda premium
Thanks
sent from 1 of 4 Galaxy devices
Great thread. I haven't had to deal with a cracked screen (thank goodness) but kudos to you for going out on a limb and trying something others said wasn't possible. Much appreciated that you posted up pictures and a walkthrough for this.
Saw this super cheap sgs3 on Craig list might try and fix it to sell it.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using xda premium
waiters said:
Saw this super cheap sgs3 on Craig list might try and fix it to sell it.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using xda premium
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sounds like a good idea.
Thanks dude!
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using xda premium
johnyardavid said:
It was this one.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/16086785670...eName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using xda premium
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Can you confirm that this should also fit on an I747 (Telus, Rogers, Bell, AT&T) version of the SIII?
Sent from my SGH-I747 using xda premium
---------- Post added at 07:25 AM ---------- Previous post was at 07:14 AM ----------
johnyardavid said:
Sounds like a good idea.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I would so love a video tutorial. I would be willing to send in my phone, however I can't part with my phone for a long period of time..
Sent from my SGH-I747 using xda premium

[HOW TO] [TUTORIAL] S3 Replace Cracked Glass Screen

First of all i take no credit for this discovery or process. If anyone wants credit for this information just MSG me with a reference and i will be more than happy to add you. However i looked around and the information was all scattered so i figured i'de add it all in one easy to follow post. Most of the info i found was thru youtube and a couple of my own added ideas.
This is a how to remove , separate , and replace a cracked
S3 screen from the digitizer by melting/softening the adhesive glue (in other words it is how to replace JUST THE GLASS)
Many people out there still say that the S3 's glass can not be separated from the digitizer and that the digitizer and glass but be bought "fused" together from OEM..this is not true. It can indeed be separated using the the process below and it will work just fine and be just as responsive as when you first bought the phone. Video Proof below.
PLEASE SEE THESE VIDEOS For screen removal from digitizer and Use as reference
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eneLvVe7DwE
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aZuiCsAtThw
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UJXXKOl7Nu8
The screen/glass part u are replacing looks like this
(i know it doesn't look like it is glass but trust me it is glass, it is about as thin as 5 sheets of paper):
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video thanks to: marcustaz
This is how i replaced my screen and tools needed:
***Lots of Patience and carefulness *** (about 30 mins if u done before...about 60-90 mins if its your 1st time)
*** wear PROTECTIVE GOGGLES - EYE GLASSES (yes there is a HIGH POSSIBILITY that small glass shards may fly and glass in the eye is not fun)***
1) replacement screen - with no digitizer (exact pictures of what u need to buy are the pictures above..just match your color) ($25 USD aprox on Amazon - Cheaper on Ebay $18 USD) (The same screen fits all models just match the color...Samsung Galaxy S3 III T-mobile SGH-T999 / AT&T SGH-i747 / Verizon SCH-i535 / Sprint SPH-L710 / US Cellular SCH-R530 / GT-i9300)
2) exacto knife ($5 USD aprox)
3) heat gun ($20(harborfreight) for a cheapy....or $40 (homedepot) for a good one with adjustable heat)
***** HEAT IS CRITICAL, most people faill because they did not heat up the glass enough ( MUST BE around 180F)****
4) empty cereal box or cardboard calendar (or something similar that is comparable in sturdiness yet is "not too solid")
5) 90% rubbing alcohol ( $3.. make "damp" on a microfiber cloth or cotton ball (cotton-ball kinda makes a mess) removes any excess glue stuck to the digitizer)
6) microfiber cloth (available from .99 cent stores or dollar stores)
7) tweezers (.99 cent store ...or your moms/girlfriends/wife's beauty box..LoL)
OPTIONAL TOOLS BUT HELPS ALOT
*** an extra hand or two (1 or 2 more people helping is a big help)
*** laser thermometer (to make sure u do not overheat the phone, try to stay under 200F degrees with an average of about 180F degrees, slightly going over 200 does not hurt but i do not recommend)
*** thick leather gloves/welding gloves (prevents your hands from getting burned while someone else is heating the phone and maintaining the temp u can be easily removing the screen...at 180 degrees the glue and glass separate from the digitizer like BUTTER and the gloves protect you from getting burned by the heatgun!!!)
***Magnifying glass (to be able to make sure the glass fragments are completely removed from the digitizer so the new screen will sit flush)
*** thin latex/rubber gloves (when putting on the screen so there are no finger prints)
*** duck tape (hold glass together so it doesn't "fall apart" while removing)
Instructions on how i did it below:
Remove the battery , sim card, micro sdcard. Apply ductape or some kinda of good heat resistant tape to the top of the glass screen so the broken glass stays intact when removing. Put on your safety glasses/eye protection (believe me i highly recommend this regardless of how dorky you may look, if glass from the phone goes in your eye ...well you have been warned). Grab the exacto bladed and lightly apply pressure with it between the glass and the outer grey plastic trim and then outline the entire outer edge of the glass. Put on some heat resistant gloves (gloves that u wont feel the burn) Heat up your heatgun and heat the phones screen to around 180 Degrees Fahrenheit ...you can know the temp by using a laser thermometer (try not to go over 200 degrees). NOTE: U must remove the glass when its at around this temp, failure to do so will make it hard to remove the glass from the digitizer. Try to heat the entire phone evenly by using a "circular" or "side to side" type of motion when applying the heat. Find the outer edge of the glass and find a place in the corner to begin the removal. I recommend beginning on the top left side of the phone (where the S in SAMSUNG side of the corner) is at. Once the phone is heated to approx 180 degrees you can begin to lift the glass. (i do not recommend lifting in the middle of the screen or any "black part" of the screen as you can risk damaging the digitizer, the outer edge (where it is white/blue) is the safest spot to begin separation.) If you don't have access to a laser thermometer then you can risk it and just take your time till you notice the glass begins to "lift/separate" . Once you have a decent amount of the glass lifted (just enough to put the cardboard in) you can shove a piece of the cereal box inside and begin to use the cereal box to lift the rest of the glass. Continue this processes till the glass is all lifted and removed. When you start approaching the bottom of the phone where the button is at BE CAREFUL...try to go around the bottom and you will also notice 2 " touch ribbon light sensors"(look at the attachment pictures BELOW i labeled the light/ribbon sensor). They can removed from the glass using the heat gun and the exacto knife...it should lift right up and separate from the glass. Once u separate the ribbon your should be all done removing or close to done removing the glass from the digitizer. If by this point you haven't already removed the glass continue to remove till all the major pieces of glass is removed. Once the major pieces of glass are removed you can now put on some latex gloves and Remove the excess glass on the corners using the exacto knife and the tweezers. Carefully remove the small pieces of glass on the digitizer using a 90% alcohol LIGHTLY DAMPENED microfiber cloth. DO NOT APPLY HEAVY PRESSURE TO THE DIGITIZER when tiny glass is still on there (instead just kind of gently sweep it...using a new paint brush might even help) when removing the small glass fragment, NOTE that if you do apply too much pressure to the digitizer u risk the glass shards scratching or denting the digitizer!!! Once the glass is all removed and shards are gone you can now clean any fingerprints lint dust or oils using a dry microfiber cloth by gently applying LIGHT/SOFT pressure. Leave the glue on the outside edges of the phone and the bottom and top of the phone...just make sure the digitizer is spotless. Once everything is clean and the digitizer is spotless you can now install the screen. start from the bottom of the phone and proceed to put on the screen, make sure the "push" button is lined up and the line up the "light-sensor-ribbons buttons". the sensor ribbon buttons should just stick to the glass and line up with the screen part. Once the button is lined up you can now line up the rest of the screen and gently push down. The screen should be stuck into place by the existing glue on the outer edges. While holding the screen in place carefully put the battery in and turn on the device and make sure the buttons and screen and everything works properly and make sure the "lights" on the menu buttons work. Once you verify everything works and looks beautiful you can take the battery out one last time. Using the heatgun reheat the screen to melt the adhesive glue to the screen. Once the screen is heated back up to 180 degrees gently push on the glass and press for about 10 seconds and make sure to press in the outter edges of the glass where u left the glue. Let the phone cool off and you are good to go. Have fun using your S3!! This sounds fairly long and hard, but its not as hard as it sounds..its actually fairly easy and should take the average person about 50-70 mins first time. Experienced person about 20-40 mins.
i figure with the videos above you should be able to figure it out. Ill probably be adding more detailed info if this thread becomes popular. Good luck guys/gals
FAQS
Q1) How do i know if its just my glass screen and not the phone itself that's not working?
You will know if your phone screen lens cracked, but LCD display works. In other words you will know that its just the glass that's broken if your phone currently works perfectly fine and the touch screen works fine BUT the only thing wrong with the phone is the screen being physically cracked/scratched. If this is your case then the instructions above will work on replacing the glass.
keywords: s3 sIII slll fix fixed shattered break broke crack cracked cracks fuse fused unfuse remove removal repair guide video videos tutorial how-to how to fix it diy dropped drop break broken broke gorilla glass white marble t999 i747 i535 l710 r530 i9300 instruction
Thanks. You think one of these might make it easier to pull out the glass:
http://www.amazon.com/Aftermarket-Product-Professional-Vacuum-Suction/dp/B004ZX48ZQ/ref=pd_ybh_3
rtwhtever said:
Thanks. You think one of these might make it easier to pull out the glass:
http://www.amazon.com/Aftermarket-Product-Professional-Vacuum-Suction/dp/B004ZX48ZQ/ref=pd_ybh_3
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Click to collapse
It might but I wouldn't try it... You would have to get the adhesive glue really soft and it may work, but the scary part is that if the adhesive isn't soft you risk damaging the digitizer using that tool. For me a cereal box worked great when separating it.
hey guys on my phone, where the glass is slowly coming off at the bottom right, you can see the bare screen, with glue residue. When heating it up, does the glass just come off. Also when you attach the new glass, can you not see the glue residue inbetween the screen and the glass? Here is an attached photo of my phones current state. It looks pretty bad, but the screen is fully functional. Any help is appreciated!
Sorry guys, I cannot post any links until i get 10 posts, i will post a pic as soon as i can
EDIT Here is the picture:
http://img821.imageshack.us/img821/3...1028142615.jpg
Thanks for the info
Sent from my SGH-T999 using xda premium
cr1mson said:
hey guys on my phone, where the glass is slowly coming off at the bottom right, you can see the bare screen, with glue residue. When heating it up, does the glass just come off. Also when you attach the new glass, can you not see the glue residue inbetween the screen and the glass? Here is an attached photo of my phones current state. It looks pretty bad, but the screen is fully functional. Any help is appreciated!
Sorry guys, I cannot post any links until i get 10 posts, i will post a pic as soon as i can
EDIT Here is the picture:
http://img821.imageshack.us/img821/3...1028142615.jpg
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Click to collapse
first of all the link to your picture doesn't work.
Now on to what u were asking....when heating it up the glass doesn't just "come off" or "peel off" or "fall off" .... you have to separate the glass from what you call "bare screen" (i assume u are talking about the digitizer) with a flat sturdy piece of cardboard (like a piece of a cereal box) or something similar. if heated around 180 degreee the glass should come off (separate from digitizer) very easily literally feels like cutting butter with cardboard.
you should not see any "glue residue" inbetween the glass and the screen..u are supposed to remove the glue "residue"/adhesive from the BLACK part of the screen using rubbing alcohol DAMP microfiber cloth. just remove it from the black screen area and leave the glue on the outer edges (where the white part of the glass is) so the new glass has something to stick to.
if u fix your pic or have any other questions maybe i can help u out more.
My digitizer doesn't work
After replacing the glass the touch screen doesn't work. Any ideas?
richardgiroux said:
After replacing the glass the touch screen doesn't work. Any ideas?
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Click to collapse
u must have had a broken digitizer too or you have "adhesive glue" stuck in between the glass and the digitizer preventing the screen from sensing your touch. btw: if you have a broken digitizer you might as well just get a whole new phone as a digitizer is very expensive (around $200 USD) for the S3.
XeoNoX said:
u must have had a broken digitizer too or you have "adhesive glue" stuck in between the glass and the digitizer preventing the screen from sensing your touch. btw: if you have a broken digitizer you might as well just get a whole new phone as a digitizer is very expensive (around $200 USD) for the S3.
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hi there !!!
what you mean " broken digitizer " what is that..
i make it all like the video but my screen dont work ... what is that and where is that digi ??
thanx for your time
i buy this from e-bay
****.ebay.de/itm/SAMSUNG-GALAXY-S3-i9300-FRONT-GLAS-GLASS-DISPLAYGLAS-SCREEN-LENS-WERKZEUNG-Weis-/200851508159?pt=DE_Handy_PDA_Oberschalen_Designfolien&hash=item2ec3aecbbf
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Click to collapse
antaras said:
hi there !!!
what you mean " broken digitizer " what is that..
i make it all like the video but my screen dont work ... what is that and where is that digi ??
thanx for your time
i buy this from e-bay
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Click to collapse
its hard to explain, but the digitizer is the next part directly behind the glass screen, normally if u buy the digitizer the glass screen comes with it. (however if u buy the glass screen it generally just comes with the glass screen and no digitizer) <--- i hope this makes sense
i should have taken a picture of mine when i had it apart. the closest picture i could find was this one below that has BOTH the SCREEN & the DIGITIZER, most people just need the glass screen. However if your screen doesnt sense your touches then u need the digitizer too.
http://i.imgur.com/wtq3v.jpg
the bare digitizer by iteself looks almost like a LCD touch screen but i couldnt find a picture of one online.
i understand now what is .. i see the foto and one video ..
so i put the battery i turn on my mobile and if i touch the screen ( lsd ) without the front glass must be ok normaly but my doesnt make nothing i put the glass in front of the screen without a glue exactly like the video but my touch dont work again ..
antaras said:
i understand now what is .. i see the foto and one video ..
so i put the battery i turn on my mobile and if i touch the screen ( lsd ) without the front glass must be ok normaly but my doesnt make nothing i put the glass in front of the screen without a glue exactly like the video but my touch dont work again ..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
sorry but your english translation is not making sense to me...pretty much if the touchscreen still works then all u need is the glass, if your touchscreen doesn't work then u need the digitizer and the glass
XeoNoX said:
sorry but your english translation is not making sense to me...pretty much if the touchscreen still works then all u need is the glass, if your touchscreen doesn't work then u need the digitizer and the glass
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Click to collapse
my question is: is there affect without having that special clear glue in the middle of screen when put back together?
jay_droid said:
my question is: is there affect without having that special clear glue in the middle of screen when put back together?
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Click to collapse
the touchscreen will work just fine without the "glue" (special adhesive), i actually removed it and cleaned it all up and just left some of it on the outter edge, u just have to make sure there is a little bit of that "glue /' residue" around the OUTER EDGE of the glass (the outer edge behind the white/blue/red part of the glass) to make sure the glass STICKS to the phone.
XeoNoX said:
the touchscreen will work just fine without the "glue" (special adhesive), i actually removed it and cleaned it all up and just left some of it on the outter edge, u just have to make sure there is a little bit of that "glue /' residue" around the OUTER EDGE of the glass (the outer edge behind the white/blue/red part of the glass) to make sure the glass STICKS to the phone.
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Click to collapse
And lastly, you have now exactly the same feeling and look as original? i.e screen is flush to bezel, no cracking noises, no evident spacing in between glass and digitizer?
how long has it been since install now?
(sorry for the bombardment of questions)
This is useful to my interest....hmmmm yes yes yes it is....
I'm gonna swap parts of my gay-blue T999 to the much cooler black parts!
Heres my glass I replaced today. it wasnt easy and it wasn't too difficult. I been fixing phones for a while so take your time if you Want To replace your glass. and make sure you heat up the glass real good. It helps a lot. And make sure you clean up the residue left from the glue real good. if you don't your phones screen won't work correctly.
Sent from my SGH-T999 using xda premium
jrocks213 said:
Heres my glass I replaced today. it wasnt easy and it wasn't too difficult. I been fixing phones for a while so take your time if you Want To replace your glass. and make sure you heat up the glass real good. It helps a lot. And make sure you clean up the residue left from the glue real good. if you don't your phones screen won't work correctly.
Sent from my SGH-T999 using xda premium
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How do you set the new screen? Do I need to buy double sided LCD tape?
I see you got it out in one piece. Did you tape it down before heating?
uoY_redruM said:
How do you set the new screen? Do I need to buy double sided LCD tape?
I see you got it out in one piece. Did you tape it down before heating?
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Click to collapse
I used reg clear tape on the screen to make sure it stayed in one piece. And I also had double sided tape they sell for the screens itself. I cut diff shapes and to make sure the screen stayed on. Where you see the clamps is where I put the tape to make sure it stays on.
Sent from my SGH-T999 using xda premium
jrocks213 said:
I used reg clear tape on the screen to make sure it stayed in one piece. And I also had double sided tape they sell for the screens itself. I cut diff shapes and to make sure the screen stayed on. Where you see the clamps is where I put the tape to make sure it stays on.
Sent from my SGH-T999 using xda premium
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So you need tape then right? There's no way to stick it with existing? I just want to make sure I'm prepared lol.

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