Develop Bugs

Desire Teardown

Hi I will try to explain how to open up a Desire, it's easier than you think.
I got one from a friend how had dropped it in a pool and it would not start.
Try to be as ESD proof as possible, before you start.
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If you dropped it into water, remove the battery as fast as possible.
You need 3 tools to open up a Desire: 5x40 torx, philips screwdriver, and a plectrum.
Unscrew all of the four torx in the corners and the two philips. Two of the torx are located under "void" stickers.
Remove the cellular antenna using the plectrum against the edge of the SIM-holder.
Continue with the plectrum around the edges, beware of the small snapps so you don't brake them.
Now it's open.
If you want to bet to the display, you have to remove the three connectors first. Be careful not to break the flexes.
Unscrew the two philips for booth of the PCB.
Carefully lift out the hole package. Be sure not to brake the flex for the side volume keys.
Because this had visited the pool, I opened up the shieldcans to make sure everything looked OK. To do that one had to remove the SIM- and SD reader.
Open them up with the plectrum.
And the same on the other side.
Water had also made some marks on the LCD so I also hade to get the LCD away form the front glass.
Don't miss this connector! You will brake the flex if you don't disconnect this one.
Use the plectrum around the display, carfully, it will come loss eventually.
Don't touch the LCD, it's a hard time to get rid of fingerprints. Clean it with a lens cloth and some compressed air.
Then you do every thing the opposite way and it's soon back together again.
Power it up!
Everything seams to work.
While I had it apart I cleaned all parts and removed as much oxide as possible.

Nice work Mate!
Im sure this will come in handy for afew folks
and good to see its back up and running again as well

Thanks for the post. I really hope I never need it, but if I have to for some reason, at least I know where to look to make things correct.

Absolutley fab guide/tut, mate. Handy to have in times of crisis
Should be added to the Wiki actually. Any mod able to fix?

When the Wiki is back up im sure itll be added

Brilliant guide, nice to see it's working again.

r33z said:
While I had it apart I cleaned all parts and removed as much oxide as possible.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi, 2 questions for you..
Where did you find the most oxide?
what are important areas to clean?
Oh, and a third one.. I find the speaker has become garbeled after my Desire's beer plunge, do you know how I can make it better?
thanks

Dead camera replacement still dead [FIXED]
Thank you so much for this. I had a dead camera - no camera, no flash, no LED, no headphone jack. I tried all the software fixes like rename DCIM directory, factory reset, change SD card, stock ROM etc. but still no joy. I knew it must be a hardware fault so I bought and installed a new camera module ... but still no joy. I then removed the circuit board (your photo 9) and found the long ribbon cable was slightly unplugged under the SD card holder. I plugged it in properly, put the phone back together and all was well. Yay! It must have come adrift when I dropped the phone.
Many thanks, Peter

peterthevicar said:
Thank you so much for this. I had a dead camera - no camera, no flash, no LED, no headphone jack. I tried all the software fixes like rename DCIM directory, factory reset, change SD card, stock ROM etc. but still no joy. I knew it must be a hardware fault so I bought and installed a new camera module ... but still no joy. I then removed the circuit board (your photo 9) and found the long ribbon cable was slightly unplugged under the SD card holder. I plugged it in properly, put the phone back together and all was well. Yay! It must have come adrift when I dropped the phone.
Many thanks, Peter
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
And many thanks from me guys. With the photos from r33z and the info about the camera from Peter i fix mine.
Thanx again

Fixed mine too
peterthevicar said:
Thank you so much for this. I had a dead camera - no camera, no flash, no LED, no headphone jack.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you Peter for your troubleshooting efforts and mention of what was wrong. I had dead camera, flash (and LED), and wifi. I didn't try software fixes because it all started after a heavy drop. I don't know exactly what I did to fix it, but I did reseat those three connectors. Thank you r33z for the guide!
Peace,
Greg.
PS: I've just looked at the guide again, and the images aren't loading. e.g. first one loaded directly (URL stripped of http prefix since I'm a new member and not allowed to post links):
lh4.ggpht.com/_k2t8S4X-WRA/TBs4fT6n6RI/AAAAAAAAFLE/lCqINbBDJBs/s800/DSC_8163.JPG
"403. That’s an error.
Your client does not have permission to get URL /_k2t8S4X-WRA/TBs4fT6n6RI/AAAAAAAAFLE/lCqINbBDJBs/s800/DSC_8163.JPG from this server. (Client IP address: xxx.xxx.xxx.xxx)
Rate-limit exceeded That’s all we know."

I broked my screen on me Desire , when my screen will arrive to me , i will use this method
Sent from my HTC Desire using xda premium

[HARDWARE MOD] Adding My Serial Output (UART)

Hello!
I've wanted to add a method for reading kernel output for the last few weeks. And, when they found the serial output pads on the mother board in this thread, I KNEW IT WAS TIME!
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1471813
So, I ordered all of the goods needed and got ready to get to work:
SparkFun FT232R for translating serial output to USB.
Soldering Station
Set of small electronics screwdriver set
I wouldn't recommend that everyone jump in and do this:
- In general you risk damaging your Kindle Fire
- Taking the back cover off incorrectly can break off the small tabs that hold it into place, making it difficult to keep on. (I did break 1 tab during this procedure -- but the cover still fits nicely)
- Soldering is not a joke. You need to go do the research and practice. I took out a motherboard from an old laptop and did 10+ tests where I took a wire and soldered it to a pad on the board. Even then... things didn't go entirely smoothly (read below). YouTube also has a GREAT series on how to solder (you'll have to get over the fact that it's the 80's):
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vIT4ra6Mo0s
Anyway so here we are with the pics:
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This is the equipment I used.
Here I have the back cover off of the Kindle. I recommend using a plastic flat tool to pry the rubberized portion up and away from the front. That way you avoid breaking too many of the small tabs.
Motherboard is out! Note that the pictures make this look like it's fairly good size. It's not.
Here's a better shot right before I moved the Motherboard to start soldering on the wires to the 4 pads on the right. They are so small that at this point I nearly stopped and put the entire thing back together. The tests I did on the other motherboard: the pads were slightly larger and had more solder on them.
Here's a shot of the Motherboard with the new wires attached. I didn't realize at the time that I only needed GND and TX0 attached. I did all 4. And originally I thought I'd have enough solder to attached the wires just by tinning the tip and wires. Such was not the case. I had to pin the wires down with a clamp so I could use 2 hands and add just enough solder to hold the wires to the pads.
And here's the Motherboard back in the Kindle. I flattened one of the speaker screens and ran the wires out through the top so they could be connected to the SparkFun.
I had a real scare while re-attaching everything. The battery connector didn't go in perfectly straight and I bent a pin. Had to pull the battery out and use a very thin screwdriver attachment to go into the connector and straighten it out.
This was around 2:30am. But that didn't stop me from booting it up and checking the output!
This pastebin shows the bootloader and then the kernel output via the new UART connection:
http://pastebin.com/6tEB3PBr
NEXT STEPS?
I've been working with the Nook Tablet guys as we've been hammering on the kernel backport modules. They also have a guy who soldered a UART connection and is working on a 3.0.8 kernel. Amazingly the Nook Tablet is nearly identical to the Kindle Fire. So much so that they have the same TI tagged kernel as we do (L27.13.1-Beta).
I will probably grab the work-in-progress kernel that they've been developing and load up the 3.0 kernel config I already have out on GitHub.
And we'll see where stuff is going wrong.

Donated to you. Thanks for your hard work.

Felnarion said:
Donated to you. Thanks for your hard work.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
THANKS!
I'm going to start a new thread where I can keep track of the progress on the new ICS kernel. So everyone can sort of follow along. It won't happen over night that's for sure.

Felnarion said:
Donated to you.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Can you donate to me too? Please?

fiddlefaddle said:
Can you donate to me too? Please?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Wow didn't realize that we requested donations around here. Thought that's exactly what they are DONATIONS?
Sent from my Amazon Kindle Fire using Tapatalk

rawdaddymagraden said:
Wow didn't realize that we requested donations around here. Thought that's exactly what they are DONATIONS?
Sent from my Amazon Kindle Fire using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I realize that fiddlefaddle was merely making a joke. But I would like to add ...
/steps up on the soapbox
While I appreciate and enjoy receiving donations (who wouldn't?), I don't EVER request donations and you should never feel obligated in any way to donate. I do this because I want to.
/end soapbox
Just thought I would toss that out there.

Hashcode said:
I realize that fiddlefaddle was merely making a joke. But I would like to add ...
/steps up on the soapbox
While I appreciate and enjoy receiving donations (who wouldn't?), I don't EVER request donations and you should never feel obligated in any way to donate. I do this because I want to.
/end soapbox
Just thought I would toss that out there.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes I did mean it as a joke....

Felnarion said:
Donated to you. Thanks for your hard work.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Where did you? I also feel like doing the same.
The man deserves some beers for having the balls to do it!

AdrienC said:
Where did you? I also feel like doing the same.
The man deserves some beers for having the balls to do it!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Click the donate button under his name on the left.

AdrienC said:
Where did you? I also feel like doing the same.
The man deserves some beers for having the balls to do it!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Agreed!!! Your a BEAST Hash!! Thanks again for all your hard work! !!
Sent from my SGH-I897 using XDA App

I gotta agree with everyone else. Thanks for the hard work. When I order a new digitizer and replace it I *might* do this if I can polish my soldering skills up(If it'll help, of course. Just let me know). I'll watch the video series you linked to.
If anyone wants a cheap testing device there's a seller on eBay who's been selling Fires with cracked digitizers(touch still works on most) and they've been going for between $45-$70. (I got mine for $60) The badly cracked ones go for cheaper obviously.
They only have one up right now, but they've had them up pretty consistently so i'd keep an eye on them if you want one.
http://myworld.ebay.com/cnn1187_asis/ (someone let me know if I should take the link down for some reason)

Wow. Impressive.. Its just a matter of time now till we will get hw working on the kindle-fire..
Massive respect @HashCode

Loved looking thru the pastebin. Saw usb hid support is this working? I know its only days away now, no pressure, its only the entire community holding their breath lol

I smell fresh cooked hardware acceleration coming to ICS on the kindle-fire soon.

fiddlefaddle said:
Can you donate to me too? Please?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ya, not sure how he took your comment seriously... especially with the at the end.
Thank you very much for all your work Hashcode!

I've been working with the Nook Tablet guys as we've been hammering on the kernel backport modules. They also have a guy who soldered a UART connection and is working on a 3.0.8 kernel. Amazingly the Nook Tablet is nearly identical to the Kindle Fire. So much so that they have the same TI tagged kernel as we do (L27.13.1-Beta).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
are they use the same wifi+bluetooth chip?
get bluebooth work is not a dream, right?

ygvuhb said:
are they use the same wifi+bluetooth chip?
get bluebooth work is not a dream, right?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah but does the Kindle Fire have a bluetooth antenna ?

NRGZ28 said:
Yeah but does the Kindle Fire have a bluetooth antenna ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The wifi and Bluetooth share an antenna.
Sent from my HTC Sensation XE with Beats Audio using XDA

In the ifixit teardown, the chip used in the Jorjin wireless module is shown to be a TI WL1270B, which does not support Bluetooth.
Sent from my Kindle Fire (CM7) using xda premium

_ante_ said:
In the ifixit teardown, the chip used in the Jorjin wireless module is shown to be a TI WL1270B, which does not support Bluetooth.
Sent from my Kindle Fire (CM7) using xda premium
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm not seeing this, I guess. In the ifixit article, they list: Jorjin WG7310 WLAN/BT/FM Combo Module.
Which, if you follow that to Jorjin's website, http://www.jorjin.com/Product_SiPmodule_WG7310.htm
You get:
-IEEE 802.11b/g/n, BT1.1, 1.2, 2.0+EDR, 2.1+EDR
-Powered by TI WL1271 (WLAN MAC), WL1271FE(PA+Switch+Balun)

Phone turns off before booting

I was using my phone this morning, then the screen turned off after I left it idle. Tried to turn it back on and got the Sprint logo and then the Samsung logo shortly after, and then it would turn off.
I tried power + home + vol-down, and shortly after that screen comes up it turns off again.
Do I just have a bad battery? I'm using the Gorilla Gadgets extended battery, but I'm at work and don't have access to my original. I also noticed that if I plug in the charger, the charging light doesn't come on.
Anything else I can try?

Oh wow, thanks for the speedy reply and for the heads up. I'll go ahead and give this a shot when I get home tonight

Jessooca said:
Honestly this works. Either way the button will have to replaced If you want to spend the money.... for me this s3 is another android toy along with my s4... I've gone from the g2 to the s4 and back to a G2, it's the best phone out IMO
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't doubt you at all, I just managed to confirm it. After slapping it around for a bit I finally got it to go to my home screen, then shortly after the "power off" menu came up, similar as to if I was holding down the power button and off it went.

I actually saw a video of someone flicking the power switch area with their fingers, I did that and managed to get the phone turned on, and have made sure to not touch the power button since then by installing a "screen off" app and it's been on this whole time. I'm guessing this is just a temporary fix and eventually it'll turn off again w/out me touching the power button?

Jessooca said:
Yep. It's going on vacation and your power button won't be returning
Sent from my SPH-L710 using xda app-developers app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Is there a special method to take out that little brown piece? I'm using a small needle and it looks like it's made of hard plastic and completely wedged in there :\

Jessooca said:
I'm making a video tomorrow.
When you're looking at the button which is obviously in the middle of the switch look at that Brown cardboard looking material... directly behind the button in that cardboard area use a very small flat head after you've used that needle or pin then dig out enough of it, so you can stick your screwdriver behind the button and it'll pop right out.
Sent from my SPH-L710 using xda app-developers app
---------- Post added at 11:52 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:51 PM ----------
You want to essentially pop the middle button area off, and that's it
Sent from my SPH-L710 using xda app-developers app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This is proving to be harder than it sounds.. lol, I took some pics real quick
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Is it "A" or "B" that I'm trying to pop out? It still looks brand new in person, but the lighting and camera show every little scratch I've caused by prying at it with a needle.

Jessooca said:
What you have is I'll guarantee 99.99% is a bad Power Button/Switch on your motherboard.
This was initially referred to as Sudden Death Syndrome... don't waste your money and buy a new battery, I assure you that's not it.
If you have a multi meter take your phone apart, it's very easy, there's a tear down video of how to on YouTube if you need a reference.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If anyone takes this advice PLEASE be sure to test with a multimeter to be sure this is the problem. I don't even know if the multimeter test will tell you anything (I'm no electrician) but this advice will permanently disable your phone. I was recently having a problem with my phone restarting and Jessooca guaranteed me that the problem was the power button.
The problem wasn't the power button. The problem was corrupt data/cache in one of my apps. Clearing the data/cache fixed the problem.
I just don't see how someone can make guarantees and be 99.909% sure of anything. Every problem can be caused multiple ways.
A few months ago I had a problem with my phone failing to startup and in that case it WAS the battery. So that's two different times I have personally experienced boot up/shutdown problems that were not related to the power button. It's just crazy to make guarantees and say you are 99.99% sure about anything without any troubleshooting. Especially for a problem like this that can have multiple causes.

I know I'm late on this thread, but just in case others come here looking for advice on how to fix their power button. I have fixed many of these by soldering on new buttons, and it's a pretty easy fix if you are good at soldering and have a good microscope. What's not an easy fix is trying to replace all those little tiny resistors and capacitors soldered on right next to the power button. They're about the size of a grain of sand, and although I usually can get them replaced and make the phone work, it takes much longer, so be careful if you're going to attempt any kind of diy repair!
I would also say that the only way I've personally gotten these power buttons to work other than replacing them is by cleaning them and lubricating them. A good electronic contact cleaner/lubricant works best, but acetone followed by WD40 works pretty well. Just saturate them with the cleaner and click them a bunch of times to work the cleaner in... then do the same thing with the lubricant. Doesn't always work, but it's unlikely to make the problem worse, and if you it doesn't work you can send it to me to fix!
Johnathan

Bluetooth connection while in bootloader

As you might know, the bootloader of both the LG G Watch and the Samsung Gear Live can be unlocked.
http://www.androidpolice.com/2014/0...nlock-the-bootloader-and-root-the-lg-g-watch/
This is necessary (at least for now) to root the watch an there is even already a first custom rom for the G Watch out there.
However, this requires a direct USB connection to the Android Wear device.
The Moto 360's specs are still unknown, but the device won't have any kind of wired connection.
Is it (theoretically) possible to set up a ADB connection to a Android Wear device over Bluetooth while in bootloader?

i was wondering the same the other day
ADB without physical connections? o_0

Not sure if this would work, but have a look at this :
https://developer.android.com/training/wearables/apps/bt-debugging.html

adicool said:
Not sure if this would work, but have a look at this :
https://developer.android.com/training/wearables/apps/bt-debugging.html
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
thanks adicool, but from what I'v read so far that should only get you ADB access while in Android
You can reboot into Fastboot from there, but once in Fastboot the watches seem to lose the Bluetooth connection and you have to use the USB connection through the charging cradle - which is not possible in case of the Moto due to wireless charging

2k4ever said:
thanks adicool, but from what I'v read so far that should only get you ADB access while in Android
You can reboot into Fastboot from there, but once in Fastboot the watches seem to lose the Bluetooth connection and you have to use the USB connection through the charging cradle - which is not possible in case of the Moto due to wireless charging
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ooh ya, didn't think of that one ! I hope we somehow get access to bluetooth in the boot loader. Hopefully we will know more tomorrow after the official announcement of the Moto 360

adicool said:
Ooh ya, didn't think of that one ! I hope we somehow get access to bluetooth in the boot loader. Hopefully we will know more tomorrow after the official announcement of the Moto 360
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This is scary. I may have to wait before buying it to make sure we will be able to mod it. What if it only does OTA updates through the phone? We may never get a custom recovery/rom [emoji33]

I wonder if the cradle can conductivly transfer data

kornklown69 said:
I wonder if the cradle can conductivly transfer data
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Doesn't it have WiFi too? What's up with that?

slaydog said:
Doesn't it have WiFi too? What's up with that?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i figured it had to do with the new updates allowing you to use your watch away from your phone

Any news from happy owners? Does it even have fastboot mode?

https://motorola-global-portal.cust...iUzQ4ODJHMW0iLCJzZXNzaW9uSUQiOiJ0Qm02MUcxbSJ9
"If you have pressed the power button for 15-20 seconds, and the watch has vibrated twice your Moto 360 will launch into Bootloader mode.
Simply press the Power key to exit Bootloader mode and power up the Moto 360 as usual."
I guess there are similar pins like on the gwatch and Samsung gear live but they are hidden behind the end of the watch band and you have to make a custom USB connector.
See these pics:
https://moto360.motorola.com/images/watch/core.png
http://cdn.slashgear.com/wp-content...a-moto-360-behind-the-scenes-sg-1-820x420.jpg the circuit board is rotated. The button should be on the right side which move the contacts to the back.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-...CI/AAAAAAAADtI/07T69EVXrR4/w634-h845-no/4+-+7

brotbuexe said:
https://motorola-global-portal.cust...iUzQ4ODJHMW0iLCJzZXNzaW9uSUQiOiJ0Qm02MUcxbSJ9
"If you have pressed the power button for 15-20 seconds, and the watch has vibrated twice your Moto 360 will launch into Bootloader mode.
Simply press the Power key to exit Bootloader mode and power up the Moto 360 as usual."
I guess there are similar pins like on the gwatch and Samsung gear live but they are hidden behind the end of the watch band and you have to make a custom USB connector.
See these pics:
https://moto360.motorola.com/images/watch/core.png
http://cdn.slashgear.com/wp-content...a-moto-360-behind-the-scenes-sg-1-820x420.jpg the circuit board is rotated. The button should be on the right side which move the contacts to the back.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-...CI/AAAAAAAADtI/07T69EVXrR4/w634-h845-no/4+-+7
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Just took off my watch band, no pins. Also bootloader tells you to connect a USB cord, so no bluetooth.

fodawim said:
Just took off my watch band, no pins. Also bootloader tells you to connect a USB cord, so no bluetooth.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Looks like it's under the FCC approval sticker (if that's actually a sticker). I'm basing this off of the iFixit teardown.

schnabel45 said:
Looks like it's under the FCC approval sticker (if that's actually a sticker). I'm basing this off of the iFixit teardown.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yep, just saw that. Will try again in a little bit to get a USB connection working.

fodawim said:
Yep, just saw that. Will try again in a little bit to get a USB connection working.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Be careful. EVEN iFixit broke the plastic cap on the back of the watch. There is quite a lot of double-sided tape. You break that and watertight/dusttight operation goes out the window.

daijizai said:
Be careful. EVEN iFixit broke the plastic cap on the back of the watch. There is quite a lot of double-sided tape. You break that and watertight/dusttight operation goes out the window.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I would hope he can peel off a sticker without cracking the back casing. Looks like it just needs some small pogo pins and it will work great. Peeling the sticker off does likely remove the water and dust protection though.

Any news?
Have any of you guys got anything working?

AndroidAndroid88 said:
Have any of you guys got anything working?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've been wondering the same thing. I have been tempted to try it myself but I would be stabbing blindly at it. Someone has to more knowledge to guide them than i do.

So I took it upon myself, turns out if you use a razor blade you can keep the FCC sticker in good condition, but since it exposes holes I would say bye bye IP67...
Band removes easily (use a tiny screwdriver to avoid damage):
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You can see the FCC has that tell-tale waviness of a sticker:
Be careful, a razor blade slips in easily:
Sticker removed (you can see I slipped and creased it while removing):
Can't see anything?
How about now
I'm in the process of trying to bend a 5p connector to fit the really tight pin spacing they use...

v3ngence said:
So I took it upon myself, turns out if you use a razor blade you can keep the FCC sticker in good condition, but since it exposes holes I would say bye bye IP67...
I'm in the process of trying to bend a 5p connector to fit the really tight pin spacing they use...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well done! Stop by the #moto360 IRC channel if you'd like to chat about this. http://webchat.freenode.net/

S pen put in backwards....

So this has been posted only once somewhere else, but unfortunately not on XDA. I accidentally put my s pen in my phone backwards and it was stuck. Of course, I frantically pulled it out, but the end is now stuck inside the phone and will not come out.
Anyone have any advice? Would I be able to take it back under a 14 day return or warranty it? This really sucks right now.
So I advise you all not to do what I did.

Okay, so what I suggest is putting super glue on the tip of your s pen and putting it in there. Maybe gorilla glue and use it to fish it out?

willbs94 said:
So this has been posted only once somewhere else, but unfortunately not on XDA. I accidentally put my s pen in my phone backwards and it was stuck. Of course, I frantically pulled it out, but the end is now stuck inside the phone and will not come out.
Anyone have any advice? Would I be able to take it back under a 14 day return or warranty it? This really sucks right now.
So I advise you all not to do what I did.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You ain't the only one bud.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=3184490

From what I read it's not coming out. The design of the locking and the pens design missed this lol.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using XDA Free mobile app

So I was able to get my pen out but the sensors and locking mechanism is now broken. Pen still works. You must turn off Sale pen detection I believe.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using XDA Free mobile app

willbs94 said:
So this has been posted only once somewhere else, but unfortunately not on XDA. I accidentally put my s pen in my phone backwards and it was stuck. Of course, I frantically pulled it out, but the end is now stuck inside the phone and will not come out.
Anyone have any advice? Would I be able to take it back under a 14 day return or warranty it? This really sucks right now.
So I advise you all not to do what I did.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I was specifically warned not to do this by my best buy sales person. I thought, well, let me see if there's resistance before it gets stuck...Nope! Like an idiot, I broke it off in there. The good news is that Samsung will repair it for a cost. I'll let you know how much. Call it an "idiot tax"

taylor7667 said:
I was specifically warned not to do this by my best buy sales person. I thought, well, let me see if there's resistance before it gets stuck...Nope! Like an idiot, I broke it off in there. The good news is that Samsung will repair it for a cost. I'll let you know how much. Call it an "idiot tax"
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This made me laugh. :thumbup:

I put my pen in backwards and had it stuck although I didn't break the end by forcing it out. I tried to exchange it at Best Buy, but was turned down. I called Samsung Support and they created a 2-day shipping label for me to send them the phone. I sent them the phone 8/26 and it is scheduled to arrive in my hands 9/10 which means I will be apart from my phone for 16 days. I was not charged for the repair nor the shipping to and from the repair center.

Blue circle explains it all...
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Guys there is a way to get it out without breaking it.
https://youtu.be/oEUaeGYhTlk

Euphoria64 said:
Guys there is a way to get it out without breaking it.
https://youtu.be/oEUaeGYhTlk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the link. I would never be stupid enough to put it in backwards but just in case I let someone use my device and they do, this is great info.

Yes, I thought I would never be stupid enough to put it in backwards either. But rushing to clear out from one meeting on the way to another one, talking to some folks at the same time, in backwards it went.
My only gripe with Samsung is there is absolutely NO difference in resistance inserting it backwards or forwards, although I'm not sure it would be possible to do that and keep the flush fitting s-pen.
I used the drinking straw method to remove my s-pen, and the internals of the phone are fine. Thank you Internet for saving my device!
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using XDA Free mobile app

I've seen many videos confirming the paper method works to fix this issue. Your post is the first I've heard that the straw method also works. It is the ease in which this mistake can be made that is the design flaw.

4 hour old note 5... at a bar with co-worker. he dares me to put it in backwards. i foolishly did. got stuck. was able to remove it after some force and playing around. works, but phone has no detection of in/out as expected. called ATT and their sending me a replacement. had the rep state on the record the pen was "stuck inside device, and now that it has been removed has broken phone-to-pen sync"
blah :-\

simbill said:
4 hour old note 5... at a bar with co-worker. he dares me to put it in backwards. i foolishly did. got stuck. was able to remove it after some force and playing around. works, but phone has no detection of in/out as expected. called ATT and their sending me a replacement. had the rep state on the record the pen was "stuck inside device, and now that it has been removed has broken phone-to-pen sync"
blah :-\
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Lol, my story is similar to yours. I first read about the issue and didn't believe it could be that easy to render the spen useless. It was that easy. Customer support came through for me. Not a big issue anymore since there is a known easy way to fix.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk

serpent2005 said:
Lol, my story is similar to yours. I first read about the issue and didn't believe it could be that easy to render the spen useless. It was that easy. Customer support came through for me. Not a big issue anymore since there is a known easy way to fix.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Crazy right? I didn't even go THAT far into the device. Our eyes wide in shock and amazement as we tried to process what had just happened. It was just as I was wrapping up the showing off features and screen bit too. Damn, maybe next time lmao. Att got my back though, lucky !

willbs94 said:
So this has been posted only once somewhere else, but unfortunately not on XDA. I accidentally put my s pen in my phone backwards and it was stuck. Of course, I frantically pulled it out, but the end is now stuck inside the phone and will not come out.
Anyone have any advice? Would I be able to take it back under a 14 day return or warranty it? This really sucks right now.
So I advise you all not to do what I did.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Take it to your local repair store. They can have it back to you in no time. If you are in Montana I can help