720p output to all tv, can you do it? - Galaxy Note II Q&A, Help & Troubleshooting

Can someone make kernel or tell me how to do this, maybe thru some kind of converter or something like that?
1080p/24Hz is chopy for games so maybe this can be done by software or hardware fix??
There is similar kernel but for One S so I belive this can be done for note 2.
Pls help this is realy big issue for mhl/tv output and i didnt find any solution on web how to make this happen on note 2.

I'm to having same issue.
Choppy with the dock. My GNex works so smoothly compared and it's half the phone although it is rooted.
I'd be very excited to known if a custom kernel can fix this. I've posted something similar already in this thread.
Cheers guys.
Sent from LV-426...

I hope for the fix to, it a shame that this isnt implemented like and option in stock software. One again please devs or anybody help us with this problem :crying:

Going to try to fix this thru vga pc because in my tv manual says I can select resolution myself thru this input (RGB PC only).
Maybe you too can do something with this.
Well i cant post links so this is what I will test with my Note2:
RED Galaxy S3 SIII i9300 i9308 MHL Micro USB 11pin to HDTV HDMI
HDMI Female to Female F/F Coupler Extender Adapter Connector
Gold HDTV HDMI to VGA HD15 3 RCA Adapter Cable 5ft
When tested will report here... still hoping for kernel modification of some kind...

I have a N7100 and a smart dock this has been my experience:
HDMI -> DVI adapter plugged into a Dell U2312HM via DVI (HDCP compliant):
- Stuck at 720x480 resolution no matter what.
- When mouse and external display is connected there is a drop in frame rate. However, if the mouse OR the external display are connected seperately the FPS remains high.
HDMI cable to my 26" Westinghouse 1080P TV (HDCP compliant but constantly has handshaking issues):
- Appears to display at 1080p or at least scaled up 720p though I set my TV in 1:1 and there are no black bars so I suspect 1080p.
- When mouse and external display is connected there is a drop in frame rate. However, if the mouse OR the external display are connected seperately the FPS remains high.
It seems that there is a bug in the code that has to do with when the phone enters that "desktop mode." There also seems to be a bug when using an adapter for some reason as well. The N7100 seems to act completely differently than my PS3. My PS3 connects wonderfully using the same adapter and the same Dell monitor, no handshaking issues. Though my PS3 to get sound out of the TV's speakers I have to mute and then unmute the TV to get sound anytime the HDMI link is closed and then reopened (starting a game for example). While it seems the N7100 behaves oppositely.

Update on my Gold HDTV HDMI to VGA HD15 3 RCA Adapter Cable 5ft combination is not working the device dont check connection thru hdmi rgb input (no signal or notification of connection). So I belive only hdmi input/output works with note 2. Once again pls help us regarding this option to lock device on 720p output thru hdmi.

man i really need this force 720p playback option as well...

Related

[Q] MHL cable + HDMI mini displayport cable?

Will a combination of an MHL cable, and a mini displayport/HDMI adaptor enable me to use the note with an iMac at work, with audio supported as well?
I've got a pc at home which is fine, but would like to connect up the Note at work.
This mini displayport/HDMI adaptor is said to work with audio, but I'm not sure if phone audio will be supported:
http://ukhdmi.com/mini-displayport-to-hdmi-adapter_QQ101732
Thanks in advance for the help!!
Phone audio output is not routed to the MHL port. The "Keystrokes" as you dial the number are but not the audio of the call.
When the MHL cable is attached, the internal cameras are also disabled so you cannot use a the HDMI output to display the image seen by either camera and also prevents the use of a large screen for video calls/conferencing.
I daresay this is more a limitation of Gingerbread than the phone itself. It will be interesting to see if there is more flexibility in ICS.
Nope. I've had it working with CyanogenMod 7 on my LG. It's possible in Gingerbread, perhaps it's Samsung's software that's at fault. As for sound, I have no comment, as I haven't tested it.
htc6500uk said:
Phone audio output is not routed to the MHL port. The "Keystrokes" as you dial the number are but not the audio of the call.
When the MHL cable is attached, the internal cameras are also disabled so you cannot use a the HDMI output to display the image seen by either camera and also prevents the use of a large screen for video calls/conferencing.
I daresay this is more a limitation of Gingerbread than the phone itself. It will be interesting to see if there is more flexibility in ICS.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse

[Q] MHL lag

11pin samsung MHL connection. Using cyanogenmod 10 if it matters. I'm getting significant delay from whats going on in the phone compared to whats outputted on screen. I'm using some emulator games and a ps3 controller connected over bluetooth, and the lag is sufficient enough to make it hard to play. I'm sure the lag isn't a slow running game or the bluetooth connection because I can play the game with the bluetooth controller on the phone screen fine, but the MHL output is where I'm seeing the lag.
I've tested this on my 1080p computer monitor and it works fine, but on my toshiba 1080p TV, I get the lag there. I have read about other people with similar issues, but have not seen any resolution yet. I'm not sure where I should be looking for a resolution either, should it be something changed on the TV input settings perhaps, maybe something that the android ROM needs to control better, or maybe just bad samsung MHL hardware.
I'm doubting its just slow hdmi connection the TV since I have my game consoles hooked up and they play without issue. Wondering if anyone out there has found a solution to this issue.
Also as a side note, does anyone else notice the phone charges very slowly connected through the MHL usb plug, even if your screen is off, and no mirrored image is being displayed?

force 1080p output resolution for HDMI

Hello,
Today I got my Samsung Smart Dock which is working as supposed with my Note 3. My issue is that in a TV, it will display correctly at the TV native resolution, but in my monitor (I-INC iP221) it will display as 640x480 60Hz. The monitor is capable of displaying at 1080p since I use it with my PC. I would like to know if there is a way I can force 1080p to the monitor. I would like to use my Note 3 as a Desktop Replacement for office things, web browsing and media playback.
I have tried several HDMI to DVI adapters I have and I also used an HDMI to DVI cable I also own and it still displays at 640x480 resolution...
My Note 3 is stock ROM and is rooted.
Thanks for all the help you guys can offer.
I already tried using the command
echo U:1920x1080p-2 > /sys/class/graphics/fb1/mode
the modes file shows:
U:640x480p-0
U:1920x1080p-2
but the 1920x1080p-2 mode only keeps the screen black until I disconnect and connect the monitor again where it defaults to 640x480 mode
Hello I have the same issue with galaxy s3 and s4 when i connect to my hdtv directly to hdmi I get 1080P. But when I use my hdmi to dvi adapter I only get 480p. Have you found a solution?

[Q] Fire TV + USB Sound Card?

Hey everybody,
I don't have my Fire TV (the launch in Germany is still 2.5 weeks away) but I do have a question.. at least temporarily I'd like to connect it to an older monitor of mine which only has DVI input (I don't own an actual TV at the moment.. well, a tube tv set for my SNES ). I do have an HDMI->DVI cable but I just realized that I won't get any sound this way.. and since the speaker I want to use don't have optical input I have to find another way to connect those. One option would be a digital-analog converter (like this one, for example: http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Digi...-Audio-Converter-Adapter-DHTV/2032388430.html) but someone mentioned that it's possible that the Fire TV works with regular USB sound cards which would be cheaper and not require yet another power plug and a bunch of cables.
I realize it's not an optimal setup at all, bus as I said, it's temporary. Has anyone tried this or maybe have a cheap usb sound card lying around they'd be willing to test for me? Tried the search function but didn't get any results.
kind regards
jpde said:
Hey everybody,
I don't have my Fire TV (the launch in Germany is still 2.5 weeks away) but I do have a question.. at least temporarily I'd like to connect it to an older monitor of mine which only has DVI input (I don't own an actual TV at the moment.. well, a tube tv set for my SNES ). I do have an HDMI->DVI cable but I just realized that I won't get any sound this way.. and since the speaker I want to use don't have optical input I have to find another way to connect those. One option would be a digital-analog converter (like this one, for example: http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Digi...-Audio-Converter-Adapter-DHTV/2032388430.html) but someone mentioned that it's possible that the Fire TV works with regular USB sound cards which would be cheaper and not require yet another power plug and a bunch of cables.
I realize it's not an optimal setup at all, bus as I said, it's temporary. Has anyone tried this or maybe have a cheap usb sound card lying around they'd be willing to test for me? Tried the search function but didn't get any results.
kind regards
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I wouldn't even bother using an external DAC connected to the optical out if you re planning
to use an HDMI to DVI adapter. I, and a few others, have discovered out that the FireTV does
not support HDMI to DVI because of HDCP. Amazon video content will not display on the monitor
at all, and video from XBMC results in many dropped frames and video instability. You will also
not get any sound out of the optical. The only way to get around this is to find an HDMI splitter
or switch which will emulate HDCP, and that will cost.
Saying that, I would assume that the same would happen with USB audio (if supported), although
I have not tried it myself.
Thank you for the quick reply, it was just in time to cancel the order I placed for a cheap toslink-rca adapter
Will I at least be able to set up and tinker with the Fire TV? If I can't use it properly at my own place until I get an actual TV I thought I might give it to my mum for the time being, but I wanted to set it up first cause she probably won't be able to do that
jpde said:
Thank you for the quick reply, it was just in time to cancel the order I placed for a cheap toslink-rca adapter
Will I at least be able to set up and tinker with the Fire TV? If I can't use it properly at my own place until I get an actual TV I thought I might give it to my mum for the time being, but I wanted to set it up first cause she probably won't be able to do that
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes... it still makes a nice box to tinker with. That's what I did before
getting a HDMI switch to bypass the audio issue with DVI. You just
won't get any audio and video playback will be unstable to non-existent,
depending on the source. However, all the FTV menus will still display
fine, and so will games and other apps.
The only other thing to note is that since video will not display properly,
you will not see the opening video when you first activate your FTV:
you will get a blank screen. This made me think that I had issues with
the device and that it had crashed, but you really have to just wait through
it. However, I don't know what repercussions this may have on activating
your device if you are trying to avoid the automatic updates to non-rootable
firmware versions during initial setup.
I'd assume it's going to ship with new recent firmware, but thanks for the heads up, I'll set it up at work then, there I've got access to a display with HDMI input
edit:
Or I'll just block the firmware update thingie at home, following these instructions.
Any news on USB audio?
Did someone try XBMC and USB audio out? I have a pure Digi Amp and like to have volume control. I assume optical out is without volume control...
Cheers,
Andy

TCL C715 - Major problem with ARC and HDMI-CEC. Please advice.

Hi guys! Ofesad here from Argentina.
First a litte history: I had a Sony XBR55X805E (android tv) until january. Was killed by a electric surge.
Since then I dont have a TV.
So, yesterday I got a TCL 55" C715 QLED. Picture looks nice, however I have been finding problems all around that I cant seem to find a solution.
First, the most important one: NO AUDIO on ARC.
I have a Yamaha RXV-673 (Dolby+ and DTS, no Atmos). The TV "sees" it as an input device. I can see the receiver menus when I select the HDMI 1 on the tv.
I have try'd changing a lot of things and never saw it as a output device. Even changed the hdmi cable and port (in case of mislabeling), no change.
Of course I tested the receiver with another source and it works perfectly, as it always did with the Sony.
Second, the HDMI-CEC doesnt seem to work.
I plugged my PS4 in HDMI2. Enabled HDMI CEC support. Same on the TV.
Turned everything off.
Turned PS4 On using it's joystick. TV stays off.
------
Also tryd turning everything off. Turning TV on. Select Input HDMI2 and the PS4 doesnt turn on.
Both devices used to work PERFECTLY my Sony with the features mentioned.
So, I ask on any advice on this matter.
The new TV seems nice enough but with all this issues it feels quite... "incomplete". Like a "demo" version.
I dont know what to think.
I am really considering returning it unless I can find the solution to this problems.
Thank you for reading and your advices.
Ofesad.
Same problem on tcl 55c735 and apple tv 4k . Cec don’t turn on tv but turn off . Same problem with 50c735 too. Tv bought in France. Try reinstalling on the 50c735 adviced by TCL and do nothing. Worked with my old Samsung TV. I tried other input and and another hdmi cable and don’t work
This is the recommended power up sequence to reduce and solve any handshake issues...
1. Power-off all equipment (At the wall socket).
2. Ensure all Cables, Splitters, Switches, Extenders are connected within the HDMI Distribution Network.
3. Power on all Splitters, Switches, Extenders within HDMI Distribution Network.
4. Power on all displays and set to HDMI input from HDMI Distribution Network (Source device need to be able to contact display to retrieve EDID information)
5. Power on Sources / Players. Ensure that a path is open from source to display for HDCP handshake negotiation by selecting the proper input on HDMI Switches or HDMI switch/splitter combo’s via the remote control (Sources negotiates HDCP Handshake via HDMI Network to displays which is set to HDMI input to respond to handshake).
Some displays will negotiate HDCP handshake / timing better if the source are already powered on and you may need to change points 3,4,5 above to 4,3,5 or 4,5,3 depending on your equipment.

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