Hey so I purchased a new housing for my Universal and it arrives from Hong Kong with no instructions... I have replaced a few housings in the past but this by far is the most dificult.
I was wondering if anyone had any photos or instructions from a housing change they had done. I am right now stuck trying to remove the piece on top of the keyboard which ends up being bound to the motherboard by touchscreen connectors from the lcd. Any help would be great as I am truly in a bind.
Also, if anyone has any instructions on changing a housing on the MDA or any other IMATE/HTC product I could use those as well. THANKS.
I've changed my housing and it's pretty straight forward if you are careful and have the right tools.. A copy of the service manual with step by step disassembly and assembly is on the ftp site at..
ftp://xda:[email protected]/Universal/UNniversalL_Service_Manual_CONFIDENTIAL.pdf
The only problem I had was with the keyboard membrane in that it was slightly different to the old one. There are dimples that press against the membrane switched and these were in a different position on the space bar on the new membrane, so I found that the space bar didn't work and had to take the whole thing to pieces again. Also I found that the new housing didn't need three securing screws.
Anyway, It can be done just do it on a clear worktop with plenty of space.I printed out all the sheets and placed the disassembled part/screw on the relevant sheet, this stops screws getting mixed up!!
Going to give it a try right now. I appreciate it.
Hi Odyseus.Have you bought the keyboard too? I have found the housing but without keyboard(and mine's silver) in this shop in UK http://www.mobilefun.co.uk/product/10679.htm
I think it's a good idea to print out the sheets
I think the housing should come with a new keyboard pad? (Not the keyboard switch assembly. but the membrane with the keypads on).
Benbenben let us know how it goes. :lol: Why are you changing cases BTW? Different color or damaged?
Hello!
Has anyone seen a disassembly guide / dismantlling guide for an xperia play? I have had a quick look and havent seen one. A video one would be really good and one that looks at the digitizer / glass would be best for me as I seem to have broken mine already, oops!
Cheers
That sucks.
If you have Rogers they have a replacement policy. I would try that before you take it apart. Good luck. I haven't seen any guides yet. It is a pretty new phone.
You have a teardown here, it may be useful: http://www.ubmtechinsights.com/teardowns/sony-xperia-play-teardown/
I have found this, but would still like to see a video if one exists?
http://www.repairyourmobile.net/sony-ericsson-disassembly/sony-ericsson-xperia-play-disassembly/
Cheers
You can get a brand new OEM Sony Ericsson Touch Digitizer Screen on eBay from here: http://cgi.ebay.ca/OEM-Touch-Digiti...ultDomain_0&hash=item27bb11025c#ht_4868wt_905
I just ordered an OEM Xperia PLAY Black Housing Set from them and it's on its way. Funny how those "takedown" photos don't show you how they disconnected the sliding screen from the gamepad base. I got stuck at that part and have no idea how they were able to remove it. LOL
Rogers replacement policy doesn't give you the same model.... They have designated refurbished models available at no cost per person per life... You can only use it once... Unless the customer support was lying to me, that is what she told me.
Sent from my R800i using XDA App
Have you dealt with rogers before? The have no issue flatout lying to your face. I cant tell you how many times I got screwed over by those ****ers. So I get the feeling you'd be SOL
Sent from my R800i using XDA App
The only reason I switched over to Rogers was to get the Xperia PLAY for $99.99 on a 3 year agreement. I've been with Fido eversince and even though they're owned by Rogers now, I can say that Fido deals with their customers way better than Rogers does. When my 3 year agreement is done I'm going back with Fido. I already network unlocked my Xperia PLAY so if I still have it by then all I have to do is get a Fido SIM card.
Xperia Play disassembly pictures
Hey,
I am in the middle of taking apart my Xperia Play to replace the screen. Now, I got everything separated and taken apart except the screen half. I am having problem removing these silver rivets, which look like screws with a covering but the covering doesn't peel/come off. I have attached pictures of these in hopes that someone knows how to remove them.
Additionally, if anyone has experience replacing an Xperia Play screen, I'd love the advice.
Thanks in advance.
McD
Screen
Hi
Dont take the rivets OFF! If you just slide the control pad part off the metal casing you can get to the 2 screws you need to get to.
I have just finished replacing my screen and it is the scariest screen i have ever replaced as you need to go from back to front lol
I have attached a pic of my finished product, sorry i should of taken photos during it but i was shaking lol
Flava0ne said:
The only reason I switched over to Rogers was to get the Xperia PLAY for $99.99 on a 3 year agreement. I've been with Fido eversince and even though they're owned by Rogers now, I can say that Fido deals with their customers way better than Rogers does. When my 3 year agreement is done I'm going back with Fido. I already network unlocked my Xperia PLAY so if I still have it by then all I have to do is get a Fido SIM card.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I desperately hope that you did not get locked down to a 3 year agreement to just get this phone. As fun as this phone is (and likely to be used long past when I get another phone, just for Emulators and random games), it is not worth a 3 year contract. 2, I can understand. 1 would be more proper. 3 years is nuts in this industry. They have made back their offset of cost within 1.5 years usually.
Video!!
Hi
For anyone else who might benifit from this, here you go:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-3n5ZfkqhzE
Edd
eddieo said:
Hi
For anyone else who might benifit from this, here you go:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-3n5ZfkqhzE
Edd
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for that video link, I think it'll really help other people who might need to do some repairs on their own to their Xperia PLAY. I just wish that I came across that video earlier when I had to disassemble mines, I was so nervous when I was doing it cause all I had to go by where those pictures posted earlier and it left out a whole lot that I had to figure out myself.
Replacing Digitizer
Hello, Flava0ne
Do I have to take entire phone apart to replace digitizer? Is there simpler way to do it? Screen is fine - only digitizer is broken. Can it be removed from the top or bottom top access only?
Thank you
WOW sorry, too many tabs open. Wrong topic!!!
(Disregard this post)
Two questions: How far can you go without breaking a warranty seal and how many internal water damage indicators / liquid sensors are there? I just need to check since they are threatening $300 if they find anything and I work in the cold and frequently see condensation. I do avoid condensation actively and don't even allow it in the bathroom when showering.
---------- Post added at 03:01 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:03 PM ----------
OK, I went as far as I dared by completely taking apart the bottom piece (gamepad, camera, microSD slot, SIM slot, headset/remote jack, primary and secondary microphone, antennas, speakers, microUSB, etc) and, so far, I have found three. It was pretty easy up to this point and I didn't notice any kind of warranty seal.
I just removed all T6 screws from the back and lifted the catches along the bottom (headset/microUSB) side using my fingernail. One corner should be loose and you can start there and slide with no marring (didn't need my plastic pry tool). I don't know why, exactly, but the internal L & R switches are stuck to black adhesive films covering openings in this black piece but I was able to lift and unstick them without touching the films. Anyway, when you remove and flip this piece over, you should see a white square just below the mSD and SIM card slot. It's actually visible through a pinhole on the other side. If it's pink/red, you've got a problem, even if it's caused by condensation (they will still void your warranty for "water damage"). When I touched it, a plastic film on the back slipped off but stuck back on. The whole thing seems like it peels off quite easily.
Anyway, I would wiggle the power button loose before moving on. Next, there are now two tiny cross-head screws that I used a PH00x50 driver on. Yes, one of them was clearly accessible as soon as you removed the battery, but why remove it until you are ready to remove both? Once those are out, let the headphone jack dangle off its ribbon cable and lift the PCB enough to disconnect the display connector from the PCB... just stick something wide and flat in there and twist. Be careful not to damage the tiny ribbon cable that connects the touchpad area from the gamepad because it still needs to be disconnected. Now, this is OPPOSITE of how many larger but similar connectors work, so pay attention: To disconnect it, locate the tiny darker-colored flap of plastic on the opposite side of the connector from where the cable goes in. Lift it from the opposite side toward the side where the cable inserts. It will stand straight up and then you can slide the cable out. If you have to remove it, the headphone/remote jack appears to work the same way.
Anyway, this should completely free the PCB and leave the gamepad shell attached to the display. The gamepad shell should be free from the front half of the phone now as well, leaving only the sliding metal mounting bracket.
Now, a couple of interesting things here: I can clearly tell that one of the T6 screws by the volume button was protruding too far and caused a visible sliding scratch on the underside of my top shell. It may make sense to loosen these a bit on a new phone before this happens. You can also see if imperfections in the white Teflon sliding bumps are causing scratches on the front (my first phone did not, my second did in no time).
Now, let's go back to the gamepad faceplate. The buttons should easily fall out if you want them too, but I was only interested in finding the water sensors and here are two more: one is right by the microphone hole and the other in diagonally opposite under the Playstation Certified logo. They look identical to the one on the back piece.
I'm sure that there is at least one in the LCD assembly as well, but mine is well sealed and I didn't want to lift any of those silvery-gray stickers covering the screws when I have a warranty replacement on the way. I've gone far enough to satisfy my curiosity.
---------- Post added at 03:51 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:01 PM ----------
A couple notes on re-assembly:
As expected, it's a bit more difficult, especially because you don't have leverage to reconnect the display when it is in place. The last fold of the cable it supposed to fit UNDER the metal bracket and the slide mechanism doesn't really work if it isn't (a certain panel will not slide back if it is not folded under). I'm not sure how it affects it but it does. You will need a thin, long, flat utensil like a plastic butter knife or something to either A) provide leverage to connect the connector or B) tuck the cable back under the bracket after connecting it. You need to have already connected the touchpads and oriented the gamepad faceplate around/under the bracket, though it will not be secured. The phone also needs to be in the open position. When you tuck the cable under, slide it to the closed position and back. If the cable seated properly, the PCB and gamepad faceplate should sit pretty flat and should no longer be falling off of the bracket even though it isn't really secured.
The D-pad needs to be arranged properly as well. One side is cut. If you look closely, there are three holes in the four inner corners that align with three plus-shaped pegs, so you can't get it wrong if you pay attention.
The power/lock button isn't going to stay in place until you secure the bottom housing, so leave it off until just before you are ready to do that to avoid losing it.
Be careful not to seal dust in the camera lens. Don't forget to put the cross-head screws back before you do the back housing because you can't easily access one. Remember to keep the four black screws by the L, R, and volume buttons a little loose if you had a problem with them scratching the other half of the phone.
Be sure to download the Xperia Play test program from the Google Market and verify that all buttons and touch inputs function properly.
I'll be sure to wear my Looxcie next time.
I feel sorry for you blokes taking apart the xperia
it's going to be a royal pain in the ass. especially when you reach that "point"
the point where you have **** all over the table and you are like god how did i get this deep into disassembly
then the part when you are shaking / nervous about breaking a part, or worse yet. you end up breaking it. i would be real scared lol.
all i can say is go real slow. REAL slow
and if anything wont move. dont force it lol
Hogwarts said:
I feel sorry for you blokes taking apart the xperia
it's going to be a royal pain in the ass. especially when you reach that "point"
the point where you have **** all over the table and you are like god how did i get this deep into disassembly
then the part when you are shaking / nervous about breaking a part, or worse yet. you end up breaking it. i would be real scared lol.
all i can say is go real slow. REAL slow
and if anything wont move. dont force it lol
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Maybe I've just taken apart too many laptops and gadgets before but I never felt that way when I got the back piece completely apart... or maybe "that point" is only after you get into the front assembly. I did the rear in bed with the screws laying on the covers beside me and didn't even lose the arrangement of a single one.
Anyway, moments after getting my RMA replacement shipped email notification this morning, I dropped my R800at that is supposed to be getting sent back and now the touch digitizer is shattered. I've ordered a replacement but I'm hoping that I'll be sending it back with the original from the RMA replacement. Does anyone know if the R800a or R800at will fit a R800 Z1i chassis? These are all over eBay. Also, is there any tamper seal? I understand that there are screws under the silver/gray stickers on the front piece but those look easy enough to reapply.
Did I mention that they wanted to turn my RMA down for the flaking paint on the front buttons alone? The night before I called to RMA for an alarm issue (two days ago), the battery door cracked right at the pry point. I remove it more often than most because I carry a second official battery and a Sony Ericsson EP900 charger, so it failed under normal wear-and-tear, but they wanted to say that I couldn't RMA for my main issue (alarm dismisses itself) because of that EVEN THOUGH THE RMA UNITS DON'T INCLUDE A BATTERY COVER!
Damn. Sony Ericsson can be picky. I babied the thing and only just now dropped it. Perhaps AT&T is a little too cautious with the terms of Sony's warranty (it is processed through them but the rules come from Sony).
CZroe said:
Maybe I've just taken apart too many laptops and gadgets before but I never felt that way when I got the back piece completely apart... or maybe "that point" is only after you get into the front assembly. I did the rear in bed with the screws laying on the covers beside me and didn't even lose the arrangement of a single one.
Anyway, moments after getting my RMA replacement shipped email notification this morning, I dropped my R800at that is supposed to be getting sent back and now the touch digitizer is shattered. I've ordered a replacement but I'm hoping that I'll be sending it back with the original from the RMA replacement. Does anyone know if the R800a or R800at will fit a R800 Z1i chassis? These are all over eBay. Also, is there any tamper seal? I understand that there are screws under the silver/gray stickers on the front piece but those look easy enough to reapply.
Did I mention that they wanted to turn my RMA down for the flaking paint on the front buttons alone? The night before I called to RMA for an alarm issue (two days ago), the battery door cracked right at the pry point. I remove it more often than most because I carry a second official battery and a Sony Ericsson EP900 charger, so it failed under normal wear-and-tear, but they wanted to say that I couldn't RMA for my main issue (alarm dismisses itself) because of that EVEN THOUGH THE RMA UNITS DON'T INCLUDE A BATTERY COVER!
Damn. Sony Ericsson can be picky. I babied the thing and only just now dropped it. Perhaps AT&T is a little too cautious with the terms of Sony's warranty (it is processed through them but the rules come from Sony).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've always said this phone is cheaply made and now i have more proof
mine came brand new out of the box with a blemish on the screen
I'm not picky so i just kept it.
Its a blemish in the LCD screen not the digitizer or glass
and yeah the cheap ass plastic assembly is not helping either.
they should have used aluminum or something. more durable
OK, so I finished the job. I did not see any more water indicators in the top shell and I did not find a single tamper-resistant label in the entire device. I left the slider assembly intact (I think it's riveted) and I didn't peel the flex PCB out of the top shell or off of the touchoads, but it was what anyone would consider "fully disassembled." I seem to have misplaced my camera but video will be coming when I find and edit it.
Hey
My antenna/sticker is broken. I ordered a new middle case for the play. But the antenna sticker is NOT on it(but its supposed to be)
Is there a way to build the sticker myself?
Motawa88 said:
Hey
My antenna/sticker is broken. I ordered a new middle case for the play. But the antenna sticker is NOT on it(but its supposed to be)
Is there a way to build the sticker myself?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Where did u order your middle housing from that claimed to hve the the antenna sticker? I never saw any. You can remove the old one from your original however. Just do it slow, very slow. In theory you could make one but that's a question I'll have to ask my boss on, he builds small circuits and could better give an answer, my guess you would need some conductive gold wires but I'm not knowledge-able on making that stuff :/
Sent from my R800x
Ebay start selling red and black back cover plate and just wonder if anyone know how to?
Hi
randy_c said:
Ebay start selling red and black back cover plate and just wonder if anyone know how to?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah i bought red one. but you can't do it without a new LCD screen maybe. . My current one is black... changed the battery part once. but still don't know how to change the housing... i hope someone can teach us..
armedzerox said:
Yeah i bought red one. but you can't do it without a new LCD screen maybe. . My current one is black... changed the battery part once. but still don't know how to change the housing... i hope someone can teach us..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well, let me try... If you changed the battery, you already know how to replace the backplate, so it shouldn't be a problem. If you want to replace the midframe/housing, that's quite a bit more work, but still doable, if you are comfortable working with heat gun or hair dryer. I would strongly recommend watching some YouTube videos on the subject (phone model doesn't matter; you just need to understand how to work with a heat gun and a suction cup). Also, finding a good disassembly guide for ZL would be useful, to make sure you follow the teardown steps properly.
Note that I personally haven't done a full ZL disassembly, but I know how it's put together, and I have done similar repairs on multiple other phones, including Xperia Z, Z1, LG G2, Galaxy S2 and others. Basically, you need to remove the backplate, then disconnect everything and remove all components accessible from the back, making sure not to damage ribbon cables in the process (some of them are very delicate). This is where a good disassembly guide comes in very handy. After that, you are left with the most difficult task: removing the display/digitizer assembly without damaging it. You need to carefully (that's the keyword here!) heat it up around the perimeter to loosen up the adhesive, and carefully pull it from the housing with a suction cup, working your way around the edge with a plastic spudger, or a guitar pick, or a similar tool. At this stage, you can quite easily break the glass, or split the LCD/digitizer "sandwich", so, again, be careful!
If you have no experience whatsoever doing this, your screen's chances of survival are quite slim. I am pretty handy with electronics and with stuff in general, and literally spent years with soldering iron in my hands. Still, my first two attempts were fudged up (the screen was already damaged in both cases, so no harm done, but lessons learned). First time, I fried the display with a heat gun. Second time, cracked the glass trying to separate it from the housing. That was enough for me to learn the tricks. So, be prepared to replace the screen, if you break it. But hey, you may very well get lucky, and do it right the first time around...
Assuming you are through the disassembly process, you will then need to put the phone back together in your new housing, using two adhesive gaskets: one for the display, and another for the backplate. I would recommend buying the proper pre-cut adhesive for your phone (check out Amazon or eBay), but you can also use a narrow high-quality double-sided tape (3M or similar), manually cut in place.
Good luck!
Tried googling up but it seemed that there are no guide for changing the housing for xperia zl.
But oh well, maybe I need to buy the lcd screen just in case I failed. But thanks! That'll boost my spirit up to do it
Hi,
lost yesterday the camera button. I am not using this camera button very offen, but the
cover does not look good without that small plastic part.
Now looking for a replacement solution. Is there a shop where I can buy this small plastic part?
Or can I print a new button with a 3D printer?
Thankyou for your help.
I think the easiest way is to buy whole back cover, it'll will be pretty expensive but still cheaper than 3d printed part, I believe that no one is selling so small parts separate.
A new back cover costs about 10-20€.
Hi,
I bought a new camera button just for 3€.
Functioning perfect, so no need to buy a new back cover.