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Sony Ericsson X1 Replacement Touch Screen/Digitizer Module
Price: $4.08 free shipping
I just ordered 2 This renders the protection screens useless.
Cheers!
Cool, just have to find out if it is really genuine! You never know, its DX.. If it actually is, bye bye irritating screen protectors.
I will post photos when I receive it. I'm eager to remove the thick plastic cover I use to protect the screen - the touch sensitivity is definitely affected by its thickness.
I doubt this is a genuine part - what's important is to work as such.
DX is slow during christmas and new year season, so you might have to wait a long time for it. Also the hong kong post is slow now
But i am waiting eagerly for the photos!
Hope it will perform well.
i just orderd this one..
http://cnn.cn/shop/sonyericsson-xperia-digitizer-p-6916.html
its working 100% and its oem. only 5$ for shipping. also its really hard taking off the original digitizer/glass. its glued on so make sure you take your time when your doing it because you can break your lcd. also the one i purchased was pre-glued with plastic on it so it was easy to put on.
I doubt there is a difference between these two, considering the price.
OMG, I just buy a piece from eBay for $7 + $3 shipping fee. poor me....mad:
truelied said:
OMG, I just buy a piece from eBay for $7 + $3 shipping fee. poor me....mad:
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Click to collapse
I'm still waiting my order ... dealextreme free shipping, you know
hi.. i am working on a new project with touchscreen..
can any one provide me links where i could buy this module...
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.32335
Here u go. The same link is in the first post.
I've just recived mine, here are some photos. How it works i will be able to tell next week, i think, because I don't think i am able to change it myself.
I'm afraid the cargo camel that brings the goods from hongkong probably has a flat tyre somewhere in the desert... so my digitizer is still on the way.
For anyone that had experience replacing the digitizer, does it involve soldering??
I don't think it needs soldering. I fitted one to my Orbit 2 and that had a similar ribbon like the X1 digitizer. It just has connector that the ribbon pushes into.
This is an excellent screen protector to protect your new digitizer: http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.23639
They do not need soldering. Just got done replacing mine with this a few weeks back. Took me about 3 hours. I also purchased this set of tools as well: dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.29544
They are invaluable, if I didn't have them I would have never got past the first couple steps.
I used this tutorial mostly (along with a couple others) to guide my way thru: formymobile.co.uk/xperiadisassembly.php
There are also many other ones if you google X1 disassembly. The only part I F-ed up on was during the removal of the metal trim ring that is glued to the old broken digitizer module. This is very thin. I bent mine in a couple of spots. Use a heat gun to warm it and it will slide right off.
Reassembly went OK. If I remember right something fell out and I couldn't figure out where it went but after looking at multiple guides I figured it out.
Mine works 100%, already ordered another one. I see they also have the actual LCD screen now too at Dealextreme.
Thanks for the info. I think I got some water leak in the digitizer. A little bit of the upper right corner area was not working last week. But the whole touch panel is not working today (already flash stock rom back to make sure it's not software issue). I think I will just buy the LCD+Digitizer in ebay (about $40) and let's see how it goes....
Just want to report back. My touchscreen is back to working with the new LCD+Digitzer. $29 form here: http://www.ezelektronix.com/index.php?target=products&product_id=1872¤t_cat_id=276 which is relatively cheap. Takes 2 weeks for me to receive the package.
Hi all
So I finally got my parcel from AX
Can someone tell how to replace it
Thanks in advance
i changed the Digitizer only.
with help of a heatgun and a sharp knife.
Hi guys,
I remember I also bought a digitizer once for a HTC prophet and the quality was noticeably lower than the original. I lost contrast on screen and had other issues. Is this one exactly the same quality as the original touch screen ?
Hello!
Has anyone seen a disassembly guide / dismantlling guide for an xperia play? I have had a quick look and havent seen one. A video one would be really good and one that looks at the digitizer / glass would be best for me as I seem to have broken mine already, oops!
Cheers
That sucks.
If you have Rogers they have a replacement policy. I would try that before you take it apart. Good luck. I haven't seen any guides yet. It is a pretty new phone.
You have a teardown here, it may be useful: http://www.ubmtechinsights.com/teardowns/sony-xperia-play-teardown/
I have found this, but would still like to see a video if one exists?
http://www.repairyourmobile.net/sony-ericsson-disassembly/sony-ericsson-xperia-play-disassembly/
Cheers
You can get a brand new OEM Sony Ericsson Touch Digitizer Screen on eBay from here: http://cgi.ebay.ca/OEM-Touch-Digiti...ultDomain_0&hash=item27bb11025c#ht_4868wt_905
I just ordered an OEM Xperia PLAY Black Housing Set from them and it's on its way. Funny how those "takedown" photos don't show you how they disconnected the sliding screen from the gamepad base. I got stuck at that part and have no idea how they were able to remove it. LOL
Rogers replacement policy doesn't give you the same model.... They have designated refurbished models available at no cost per person per life... You can only use it once... Unless the customer support was lying to me, that is what she told me.
Sent from my R800i using XDA App
Have you dealt with rogers before? The have no issue flatout lying to your face. I cant tell you how many times I got screwed over by those ****ers. So I get the feeling you'd be SOL
Sent from my R800i using XDA App
The only reason I switched over to Rogers was to get the Xperia PLAY for $99.99 on a 3 year agreement. I've been with Fido eversince and even though they're owned by Rogers now, I can say that Fido deals with their customers way better than Rogers does. When my 3 year agreement is done I'm going back with Fido. I already network unlocked my Xperia PLAY so if I still have it by then all I have to do is get a Fido SIM card.
Xperia Play disassembly pictures
Hey,
I am in the middle of taking apart my Xperia Play to replace the screen. Now, I got everything separated and taken apart except the screen half. I am having problem removing these silver rivets, which look like screws with a covering but the covering doesn't peel/come off. I have attached pictures of these in hopes that someone knows how to remove them.
Additionally, if anyone has experience replacing an Xperia Play screen, I'd love the advice.
Thanks in advance.
McD
Screen
Hi
Dont take the rivets OFF! If you just slide the control pad part off the metal casing you can get to the 2 screws you need to get to.
I have just finished replacing my screen and it is the scariest screen i have ever replaced as you need to go from back to front lol
I have attached a pic of my finished product, sorry i should of taken photos during it but i was shaking lol
Flava0ne said:
The only reason I switched over to Rogers was to get the Xperia PLAY for $99.99 on a 3 year agreement. I've been with Fido eversince and even though they're owned by Rogers now, I can say that Fido deals with their customers way better than Rogers does. When my 3 year agreement is done I'm going back with Fido. I already network unlocked my Xperia PLAY so if I still have it by then all I have to do is get a Fido SIM card.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I desperately hope that you did not get locked down to a 3 year agreement to just get this phone. As fun as this phone is (and likely to be used long past when I get another phone, just for Emulators and random games), it is not worth a 3 year contract. 2, I can understand. 1 would be more proper. 3 years is nuts in this industry. They have made back their offset of cost within 1.5 years usually.
Video!!
Hi
For anyone else who might benifit from this, here you go:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-3n5ZfkqhzE
Edd
eddieo said:
Hi
For anyone else who might benifit from this, here you go:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-3n5ZfkqhzE
Edd
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for that video link, I think it'll really help other people who might need to do some repairs on their own to their Xperia PLAY. I just wish that I came across that video earlier when I had to disassemble mines, I was so nervous when I was doing it cause all I had to go by where those pictures posted earlier and it left out a whole lot that I had to figure out myself.
Replacing Digitizer
Hello, Flava0ne
Do I have to take entire phone apart to replace digitizer? Is there simpler way to do it? Screen is fine - only digitizer is broken. Can it be removed from the top or bottom top access only?
Thank you
WOW sorry, too many tabs open. Wrong topic!!!
(Disregard this post)
Two questions: How far can you go without breaking a warranty seal and how many internal water damage indicators / liquid sensors are there? I just need to check since they are threatening $300 if they find anything and I work in the cold and frequently see condensation. I do avoid condensation actively and don't even allow it in the bathroom when showering.
---------- Post added at 03:01 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:03 PM ----------
OK, I went as far as I dared by completely taking apart the bottom piece (gamepad, camera, microSD slot, SIM slot, headset/remote jack, primary and secondary microphone, antennas, speakers, microUSB, etc) and, so far, I have found three. It was pretty easy up to this point and I didn't notice any kind of warranty seal.
I just removed all T6 screws from the back and lifted the catches along the bottom (headset/microUSB) side using my fingernail. One corner should be loose and you can start there and slide with no marring (didn't need my plastic pry tool). I don't know why, exactly, but the internal L & R switches are stuck to black adhesive films covering openings in this black piece but I was able to lift and unstick them without touching the films. Anyway, when you remove and flip this piece over, you should see a white square just below the mSD and SIM card slot. It's actually visible through a pinhole on the other side. If it's pink/red, you've got a problem, even if it's caused by condensation (they will still void your warranty for "water damage"). When I touched it, a plastic film on the back slipped off but stuck back on. The whole thing seems like it peels off quite easily.
Anyway, I would wiggle the power button loose before moving on. Next, there are now two tiny cross-head screws that I used a PH00x50 driver on. Yes, one of them was clearly accessible as soon as you removed the battery, but why remove it until you are ready to remove both? Once those are out, let the headphone jack dangle off its ribbon cable and lift the PCB enough to disconnect the display connector from the PCB... just stick something wide and flat in there and twist. Be careful not to damage the tiny ribbon cable that connects the touchpad area from the gamepad because it still needs to be disconnected. Now, this is OPPOSITE of how many larger but similar connectors work, so pay attention: To disconnect it, locate the tiny darker-colored flap of plastic on the opposite side of the connector from where the cable goes in. Lift it from the opposite side toward the side where the cable inserts. It will stand straight up and then you can slide the cable out. If you have to remove it, the headphone/remote jack appears to work the same way.
Anyway, this should completely free the PCB and leave the gamepad shell attached to the display. The gamepad shell should be free from the front half of the phone now as well, leaving only the sliding metal mounting bracket.
Now, a couple of interesting things here: I can clearly tell that one of the T6 screws by the volume button was protruding too far and caused a visible sliding scratch on the underside of my top shell. It may make sense to loosen these a bit on a new phone before this happens. You can also see if imperfections in the white Teflon sliding bumps are causing scratches on the front (my first phone did not, my second did in no time).
Now, let's go back to the gamepad faceplate. The buttons should easily fall out if you want them too, but I was only interested in finding the water sensors and here are two more: one is right by the microphone hole and the other in diagonally opposite under the Playstation Certified logo. They look identical to the one on the back piece.
I'm sure that there is at least one in the LCD assembly as well, but mine is well sealed and I didn't want to lift any of those silvery-gray stickers covering the screws when I have a warranty replacement on the way. I've gone far enough to satisfy my curiosity.
---------- Post added at 03:51 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:01 PM ----------
A couple notes on re-assembly:
As expected, it's a bit more difficult, especially because you don't have leverage to reconnect the display when it is in place. The last fold of the cable it supposed to fit UNDER the metal bracket and the slide mechanism doesn't really work if it isn't (a certain panel will not slide back if it is not folded under). I'm not sure how it affects it but it does. You will need a thin, long, flat utensil like a plastic butter knife or something to either A) provide leverage to connect the connector or B) tuck the cable back under the bracket after connecting it. You need to have already connected the touchpads and oriented the gamepad faceplate around/under the bracket, though it will not be secured. The phone also needs to be in the open position. When you tuck the cable under, slide it to the closed position and back. If the cable seated properly, the PCB and gamepad faceplate should sit pretty flat and should no longer be falling off of the bracket even though it isn't really secured.
The D-pad needs to be arranged properly as well. One side is cut. If you look closely, there are three holes in the four inner corners that align with three plus-shaped pegs, so you can't get it wrong if you pay attention.
The power/lock button isn't going to stay in place until you secure the bottom housing, so leave it off until just before you are ready to do that to avoid losing it.
Be careful not to seal dust in the camera lens. Don't forget to put the cross-head screws back before you do the back housing because you can't easily access one. Remember to keep the four black screws by the L, R, and volume buttons a little loose if you had a problem with them scratching the other half of the phone.
Be sure to download the Xperia Play test program from the Google Market and verify that all buttons and touch inputs function properly.
I'll be sure to wear my Looxcie next time.
I feel sorry for you blokes taking apart the xperia
it's going to be a royal pain in the ass. especially when you reach that "point"
the point where you have **** all over the table and you are like god how did i get this deep into disassembly
then the part when you are shaking / nervous about breaking a part, or worse yet. you end up breaking it. i would be real scared lol.
all i can say is go real slow. REAL slow
and if anything wont move. dont force it lol
Hogwarts said:
I feel sorry for you blokes taking apart the xperia
it's going to be a royal pain in the ass. especially when you reach that "point"
the point where you have **** all over the table and you are like god how did i get this deep into disassembly
then the part when you are shaking / nervous about breaking a part, or worse yet. you end up breaking it. i would be real scared lol.
all i can say is go real slow. REAL slow
and if anything wont move. dont force it lol
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Click to collapse
Maybe I've just taken apart too many laptops and gadgets before but I never felt that way when I got the back piece completely apart... or maybe "that point" is only after you get into the front assembly. I did the rear in bed with the screws laying on the covers beside me and didn't even lose the arrangement of a single one.
Anyway, moments after getting my RMA replacement shipped email notification this morning, I dropped my R800at that is supposed to be getting sent back and now the touch digitizer is shattered. I've ordered a replacement but I'm hoping that I'll be sending it back with the original from the RMA replacement. Does anyone know if the R800a or R800at will fit a R800 Z1i chassis? These are all over eBay. Also, is there any tamper seal? I understand that there are screws under the silver/gray stickers on the front piece but those look easy enough to reapply.
Did I mention that they wanted to turn my RMA down for the flaking paint on the front buttons alone? The night before I called to RMA for an alarm issue (two days ago), the battery door cracked right at the pry point. I remove it more often than most because I carry a second official battery and a Sony Ericsson EP900 charger, so it failed under normal wear-and-tear, but they wanted to say that I couldn't RMA for my main issue (alarm dismisses itself) because of that EVEN THOUGH THE RMA UNITS DON'T INCLUDE A BATTERY COVER!
Damn. Sony Ericsson can be picky. I babied the thing and only just now dropped it. Perhaps AT&T is a little too cautious with the terms of Sony's warranty (it is processed through them but the rules come from Sony).
CZroe said:
Maybe I've just taken apart too many laptops and gadgets before but I never felt that way when I got the back piece completely apart... or maybe "that point" is only after you get into the front assembly. I did the rear in bed with the screws laying on the covers beside me and didn't even lose the arrangement of a single one.
Anyway, moments after getting my RMA replacement shipped email notification this morning, I dropped my R800at that is supposed to be getting sent back and now the touch digitizer is shattered. I've ordered a replacement but I'm hoping that I'll be sending it back with the original from the RMA replacement. Does anyone know if the R800a or R800at will fit a R800 Z1i chassis? These are all over eBay. Also, is there any tamper seal? I understand that there are screws under the silver/gray stickers on the front piece but those look easy enough to reapply.
Did I mention that they wanted to turn my RMA down for the flaking paint on the front buttons alone? The night before I called to RMA for an alarm issue (two days ago), the battery door cracked right at the pry point. I remove it more often than most because I carry a second official battery and a Sony Ericsson EP900 charger, so it failed under normal wear-and-tear, but they wanted to say that I couldn't RMA for my main issue (alarm dismisses itself) because of that EVEN THOUGH THE RMA UNITS DON'T INCLUDE A BATTERY COVER!
Damn. Sony Ericsson can be picky. I babied the thing and only just now dropped it. Perhaps AT&T is a little too cautious with the terms of Sony's warranty (it is processed through them but the rules come from Sony).
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I've always said this phone is cheaply made and now i have more proof
mine came brand new out of the box with a blemish on the screen
I'm not picky so i just kept it.
Its a blemish in the LCD screen not the digitizer or glass
and yeah the cheap ass plastic assembly is not helping either.
they should have used aluminum or something. more durable
OK, so I finished the job. I did not see any more water indicators in the top shell and I did not find a single tamper-resistant label in the entire device. I left the slider assembly intact (I think it's riveted) and I didn't peel the flex PCB out of the top shell or off of the touchoads, but it was what anyone would consider "fully disassembled." I seem to have misplaced my camera but video will be coming when I find and edit it.
I had a spare lapdock laying around and got curious if the lcd panel was compatible with my cracked exopc tablet.
I couldn't find any information on what model or brand the lcd was, nor any dis-assembly info on the screen, so I decided to wing it.
First thing you notice is that there's an aluminum bezel, much like on a macbook air - this has to be heated and peeled off with an exacto or similar object, it's very easy to bend it out of shape, so be cautious and patient with the pressure and heat, There's a bunch of tiny screws around the magnesium frame that have to be taken out, two on the corner near the hinges, and three underneath the hinge cover, that just pops and slides off. Once you take those screws out, the frame comes out easily along with the 40-pin LVDS cable, (I'd post pictures of the process, but it's pretty straight forward)
I don't know if there's any variation on the LCD panels that are used in the lapdocks, but for the one I took apart, it's a
CHI MEI N116B6-L04
Which for my intents and purposes, was perfectly compatible with my exopc tablet as a replacement lcd. :good:
In terms of cost efficiency, a replacement screen would've cost me 60 bucks, I bought the lapdock for 60 bucks; but I assume they go for around 50 now. So in the end I payed about the same for a replacement lcd + all the effort and risks to disassemble it - the extra parts I have left over, that I'll probably use as a tablet keyboard dock (like a ghetto asus transformer dock).
In the end, at least I finally used that thing for something. Hopefully this was informative for someone.
So I got this nice (albeit beat-up, but 100% functional) G2 from a friend, and for about 3 weeks it had no problems. I rooted it, put CyanogenMod 7.2 on it, worked fine.
About 3 days ago, it started behaving really weird while I was using it. Interfaces not responding, at times opening things when I didn't have my finger on the screen, usual possessed phone behavior) I did some investigating with the Developer Tools' Pointer Location display, and there's this massive dead-zone on my digitizer! The dead-zone (while holding the phone in landscape) goes from X=255.1 to X=401.1, and covers all the Y-values in that range. if I move my finger slowly enough through the deadzone from one fo the sides of it, it will register as being directly in the center of it. Other times it will show a very light touch on the right side of the zone, activating interface elements and the like.
What happened? Do I have to replace the digitizer? I don't have a warranty on it, seeing as I got it second-hand. Possible fixes, if it's not a serious hardware issue?
I don't have money to spare, so buying things to fix it might take a lot of saving.
EDIT: Got it in the mail finally, replaced it in 45 minutes. I had to use the dorm's heated-air hand-dryer to get it off, and I kinda messed up the glue a bit, but it's working just fine.
If you have to replace the digitizer, I would not worry. I just got done replacing the lcd on my G2, and it works. I bought the lcd (in your case it would be a digitizer) off ebay and my purchased also included the screw drivers and plastic tip thingy to open the phone. For the digitizer you might need to also get double sided tape.
There is a youtube video showing how to take a part and put back the phone. I think the video was like 30min, but when I did it, the time was 1.5hrs totally.
good luck if you go that route.
Previous post is spot on, for most people I would assume this won't be a hard task, I have opened and repaired dozens of g2s (and many other phones) and although sliders tend to be the most complicated its really straight forward
Find a YouTube video or other instructions online and look at it ahead of time to see if its something you feel comfortable with. Then if so, order the digitizer (90% this is the cause 10% the main flex) for around 15-20$ and all you need is a #0 Philips and a t5 torx and a hairdryer/heat gun
You won't need tape as there is more than enough sticky left after prying of the digitizer. Expect about that hour in half if your new to this, but can be done in less than 20 if you do it a lot Here is a link to info on your phone including repair guides
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?p=43195539
Best of luck!
Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk 2
Aw. Was hoping this wouldn't be the solution.
That sucks. Just went and ordered one, it came with screwdrivers and the prying tool, but I don't have any double-sided tape. Let's hope it's still sticky. Well, it supposedly gets here on the 9th, so I'll read up on replacing from these links. Thanks for the support. Hope I don't break the thing. :/
has anybody ordered and replaced the LCD screen on this phone?
i managed to crack mine after some month of abuse. anybody recommend an lcd screen assembly from ebay?
Yes. I have replaced a few as I work in a mobile phone repair shop.
Not sure if I'm allowed to post eBay links here but anyway here it is:
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Huawei-P...948322?hash=item1a172c98a2:g:jcoAAOSw6WdXidIF
The client actually bring the screen for me to replace his broken screen, came with screen and frame pre-assembled like this. While I have ordered one for a similar model for the Huawei Ascend G8 a few times it's pretty simple and hassle free when you buy it pre-assembled like that.
I could buy without frame but you get the hassle of adding adhesive manually which comes with the risk of the screen either not sitting on properly or pushing up because the adhesive was too weak or not applied properly. I've done a few G8's with and without frame, worked pretty well in my experience.
Note that the huawei P9 has two pentalobe screws on the bottom like the iPhones do and you will need to take the sim card / sd card tray out before opening it up. The whole metal back cover pretty much unclips from the screen frame. Do check iFixit disassembly guides on how to do so. Most of it is unplugging cables and unclipping stuff, the battery is a bit tricky the adhesive is usually strong for them. You gotta pull the battery adhesive tab if there is one and most likely the battery will still be stuck to the housing even with it removed because there is even more adhesive that is separate from that tab (pry carefully if you intend to do so of course, LCD cable runs under the battery if I remember correctly).
You can also buy cheaper from here but the quality as you can see is quite lower: http://www.eddogo.com/lcd-display-t...-with-frame-for-huawei-p9-eva-al00-black.html
As always make sure to match it up with model number.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jDPRtzjqSlo