Develop Bugs

Review: Hizpo 7.1.2 for GM Vehicles, PX3, MTCE_XRC_V2.75_1

I just received a Hizpo 7.1.2 unit made for GM Vehicles 2007-2012(depending on model). I Installed it in a 2007 GMC Yukon XL Denali w/ Bose, XM, factory rear camera, Onstar, and factory rear entertainment. The goal was to retain all vehicle functionality except Onstar and XM.
The Unit: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B077SBX8CG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Android 7.1.2, CPU: Rockchip PX3 Cortex A9 Quad Core 1.6GHz, Memory: 16GB, RAM: 2GB
MCU: MTCE_XRC_V2.75_1
I attached pics of the specifics.
The Good:
1. Very fast. The unit seems quite responsive so far. I have only installed the Youtube app and Car Launcher.
2. Screen Quality is fantastic. No issues so far but I need to attempt to watch some HD files from an SD card
3. WiFi download speeds are fairly quick, no complaints
4. Bluetooth Audio quality is great.
5. Radio Quality is great, no excess noise and range seems to be on par with stock system
6. BT internal Mic seems to work OK. My wife said I sounded like I am in a car so pretty much normal.
The Bad:
1. Instructions for install are non existent. It is supposed to be plug and play but initially I couldn't figure out why I couldn't get any audio. Turns out I had to plug two random blue "amp-con" wires together.
2. The dB output is set to "0" from the factory. This makes volume level 1 waaaay to loud with the Bose system. Thanks to a few posts on these forums, I was able to get in to the factory settings(code 126) and lower the output to a reasonable level and this worked perfectly. Sound quality is still fantastic after the change.
3. There is a very light static noise from all speakers. Some have suggested this is just common because of junk internals or poor wiring.
4. Every click of the Volume knob gives a light audible thumb noise. I am not sure if this is due to something internal or maybe I need to tape up every connection in the back to ensure nothing is touching.
5. Wifi antenna is bulky and cannot be used on my model unless I cut the plastic behind the dash. I left the antenna off and I can hit my phones hotspot without any issues.
6. CANBUS settings at the factory were at none. I had to change it to GM before it would recognize the volume buttons on the steering wheel but those do work.
Things left to test/figure out:
1. Factory Rear Entertainment. Now working after playing with the RCA's to find which ones did what. No adapter needed but still trying to figure out how to force the rear screen to show anything playing on the main LCD and not just DVD.
If anyone has any ideas on the static, I am all ears. I will update this with my findings as I personally scoured this forum for info on Hizpo units and found nothing. I know Hizpo is just a seller but still without the right info its almost impossible to know what MCU your unit will be. I hope this will help others in the future.
Where should I look for ROMS to put on if I can get the static fixed? Thanks!

Krmnnghia said:
I just received a Hizpo 7.1.2 unit made for GM Vehicles 2007-2012(depending on model). I Installed it in a 2007 GMC Yukon XL Denali w/ Bose, XM, factory rear camera, Onstar, and factory rear entertainment. The goal was to retain all vehicle functionality except Onstar and XM.
The Unit: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B077SBX8CG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Android 7.1.2, CPU: Rockchip PX3 Cortex A9 Quad Core 1.6GHz, Memory: 16GB, RAM: 2GB
MCU: MTCE_XRC_V2.75_1
I attached pics of the specifics.
The Good:
1. Very fast. The unit seems quite responsive so far. I have only installed the Youtube app and Car Launcher.
2. Screen Quality is fantastic. No issues so far but I need to attempt to watch some HD files from an SD card
3. WiFi download speeds are fairly quick, no complaints
4. Bluetooth Audio quality is great.
5. Radio Quality is great, no excess noise and range seems to be on par with stock system
6. BT internal Mic seems to work OK. My wife said I sounded like I am in a car so pretty much normal.
The Bad:
1. Instructions for install are non existent. It is supposed to be plug and play but initially I couldn't figure out why I couldn't get any audio. Turns out I had to plug two random blue "amp-con" wires together.
2. The dB output is set to "0" from the factory. This makes volume level 1 waaaay to loud with the Bose system. Thanks to a few posts on these forums, I was able to get in to the factory settings(code 126) and lower the output to a reasonable level and this worked perfectly. Sound quality is still fantastic after the change.
3. There is a very light static noise from all speakers. Some have suggested this is just common because of junk internals or poor wiring.
4. Every click of the Volume knob gives a light audible thumb noise. I am not sure if this is due to something internal or maybe I need to tape up every connection in the back to ensure nothing is touching.
5. Wifi antenna is bulky and cannot be used on my model unless I cut the plastic behind the dash. I left the antenna off and I can hit my phones hotspot without any issues.
6. CANBUS settings at the factory were at none. I had to change it to GM before it would recognize the volume buttons on the steering wheel but those do work.
Things left to test/figure out:
1. GPS. I have't wired up the antenna but will do so this week.
2. Rear Camera. It turns on when I go into Reverse but I have not figured out how to use the factory camera with it. I have the Metra BACKUPCAM adapter on order but given what my plugs were used behind the factory radio, I cant tell where the original plug is on the vehicle
3. Factory Rear Entertainment. Rear ceiling monitor turns on when car is on but I have no video back there which I knew would happen. I have the GMRSAV adaper on order to solve this but again, given what my plugs were used behind the factory radio, I cant tell where the original plug is on the vehicle
If anyone has any ideas on the static, I am all ears. I will update this with my findings as I personally scoured this forum for info on Hizpo units and found nothing. I know Hizpo is just a seller but still without the right info its almost impossible to know what MCU your unit will be. I hope this will help others in the future.
Where should I look for ROMS to put on if I can get the static fixed? Thanks!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have read over and over that some head units have horrible grounding paths. If you are using RCA jacks, watch youtube videos on grounding the RCA jacks.
If not using RCA jacks, placing a ground wire on the chassis, or even don't use the factory ground.
Another thing is keep reducing the factory radio volume settings as you started doing. You may be picking up noice from the radio IC.
LET ME KNOW

yellaboyla said:
I have read over and over that some head units have horrible grounding paths. If you are using RCA jacks, watch youtube videos on grounding the RCA jacks.
If not using RCA jacks, placing a ground wire on the chassis, or even don't use the factory ground.
Another thing is keep reducing the factory radio volume settings as you started doing. You may be picking up noice from the radio IC.
LET ME KNOW
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the suggestions! I took the wiring out and am going to tape up and cap anything that is exposed metal to ensure nothing is touching anything it shouldn't. Fitting all this stuff back in is tough. I will first try to ground the chassis. I can't ground the rca's as there are no female jacks on the radio itself. The cables come out and connect outside the unit.

UPDATE:
1. Rear Camera works flawlessly with the Metra BACKUPCAM adapter.
2. Factory Rear Entertainment works WITHOUT the GMRSAV adapter. Because there aren't really any instructions, I just started up a DVD and started plugging in Video feed lines until I found the combo that works. Unfortunately this is still only when I select DVD on the unit.
Someone please tell me the ROM geniuses have figured out a way to mirror everything to the rear monitors? I would love to play Youtube videos for my son in the back.
Next up is cutting some plastic behind the dash to be able to use the Wifi antenna and GPS antenna. I wanted to avoid this but the GPS antenna output is just in the wrong location so we cut!

UPDATE:
Cut the plastic out behind the deck.
Was still very tight fit but the wifi antenna and gps plug in fine now.
Wifi range is very good. Picking up signal from peoples houses as I drive by. GPS is very good. The stock iGO app seems to be worthless or I don't fully understand it. It can't seem to locate POI. I ditched it and went with Sygic which runs smooth and works with the factory GPS antenna without issue.
I have tried several suggestions to fix the static issue like grounding the head unit case, adjusting the brightness(apparently some folks get feedback from the LCD), adjusting all factory volume levels as low as they go. Nothing has fixed it.

I have same static click on volume knob. I have tried to adjust any volume seetimgs, but doesn't seem to help.
My rear screens worked on initial install, but now, I get no display out of them. I also want the IR headsets to work as they are not.
I agree about the screen mirroring option. But I habe tried youtubeTV and it was not compatible. Netflix wouldnt download (figured non compatible) so not sure screen mirroring to rear deop downs really matters.

are you having any trouble with bluetooth streaming on a2dp sounding awful?

How did you get Sygic to run off SD card . Are there instructions in a forum somewhere? Get Sygic to run on your Android and then copy to SD card?? and help would be appreciated. My Hizpo is using IGO PRIME , it ok , but could be better.

Hi, I cannot get signal in the radio, I have bought a antenna adapter and no different, do I need to connect the wire labelled amp up to anything?? This is just unconnected at the moment as didn’t know where to connect it too?
Thanks

Hi
Can please share the canbus option selected in factory settings.
Thanks.

Electrical noise?

I have a MTCD GS unit for an Audi TT and I get a feint electrical noise constantly through the cars speakers. If you have music or the radio on it is not too noticable but otherwise it is really obvious. It is definitely the unit as it isn't there with the stock head unit and if you hard reset the GS unit with the reset button whilst it is running it immediately goes away until the unit has booted. It was originally supplied with a RK3188/PX3 board running Android 5.0. I have since replaced the board with a PX5 board and have upgraded it to Android 8.0 (Malaysk). I isn't a software issue and is down to the hardware (I think...).
I have tried disabling WiFi and BlueTooth - although I don't think BlueTooth can be disabled as its not a native Android component of the system - and the noise remains. It is a feint pop and hiss noise that I think is an earth/grounding issue. I was going to replace the cable that goes to the WiFi antenna on the rear socket as this looks flimsy, however I am not sure it will make a difference.
Any ideas?
Andy

dirty power maybe? did you connect a chassis ground for the 0v on the unit.. my harness came with a ground with ring terminal..
Sent from my PH-1 using Tapatalk

I have exactly same problem. But when the colors on LCD screen black : electrical noise increases. Any other color : electrical noise decreases. I will check groundings of unit in this weekend. I ll write here if i find out anything.

stinger4321 said:
dirty power maybe? did you connect a chassis ground for the 0v on the unit.. my harness came with a ground with ring terminal..
Sent from my PH-1 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It shouldn't be dirty power as it connects into the factory loom. I'll take it out at weekend and see if grounding the chassis of the head unit to the car does anything.
Andy

I had this problem on my ksp. Ultimately I found opamps under the sound processor with dirty ground on the feedback resistors. I substituted resistors to the processor board ground header lead. Now all I hear is my fan.

I took the head unit out last weekend and tried earthing the chassis to the car and it made no difference - you can still hear the feint pops and hiss (all I can think to describe it is radio interference?). I also noticed that it gets worse when the cars lights are on and the head unit backlights come on (via CANBUS telling it I assume?).
It is a MTCD GS unit and has an external 'dongle' that is covered with heatshrink that is inline with the audio outputs. This has something to do with the level of the audio out - however I am just guessing here TBH.
Any other ideas how to eliminate this noise?
Cheers
Andy

ADB100 said:
I took the head unit out last weekend and tried earthing the chassis to the car and it made no difference - you can still hear the feint pops and hiss (all I can think to describe it is radio interference?). I also noticed that it gets worse when the cars lights are on and the head unit backlights come on (via CANBUS telling it I assume?).
It is a MTCD GS unit and has an external 'dongle' that is covered with heatshrink that is inline with the audio outputs. This has something to do with the level of the audio out - however I am just guessing here TBH.
Any other ideas how to eliminate this noise?
Cheers
Andy
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Try grounding the PX5 board heatsink with the unit chassis.

iRcKenny said:
Try grounding the PX5 board heatsink with the unit chassis.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I had the same noise issue when the PX3 board was installed and this has a much smaller heatsink than the PX5?
I'll give it a shot but its a bit more involved than just taking the unit out of the car though...
Andy

ADB100 said:
I had the same noise issue when the PX3 board was installed and this has a much smaller heatsink than the PX5?
I'll give it a shot but its a bit more involved than just taking the unit out of the car though...
Andy
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So, you also have that noise before upgrading the core board, have you any chance to temporaly install another common radio like low budget Pionner, Alpine or similar? If yes check if the noise persist; some TT owners with noise from speakers said that the cause is the factory amplifier.
Have luck!

i have heard that the problem may be from the antenna, try getting a noise filter for the antenna

Record the noise with a video. Some quiet electrical noise is common, but we're talking almost silent and only when no music is playing at all.

ADB100 said:
I took the head unit out last weekend and tried earthing the chassis to the car and it made no difference - you can still hear the feint pops and hiss (all I can think to describe it is radio interference?). I also noticed that it gets worse when the cars lights are on and the head unit backlights come on (via CANBUS telling it I assume?).
It is a MTCD GS unit and has an external 'dongle' that is covered with heatshrink that is inline with the audio outputs. This has something to do with the level of the audio out - however I am just guessing here TBH.
Any other ideas how to eliminate this noise?
Cheers
Andy
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have the same thing on my A3 and although it doesn’t really bother me I’d be interested to see if someone finds a fix. On the A3’s it only affects the ones with Bose.
All my cabling is exactly the same as yours aswell.
I once emailed a company that sells the factory Bose amps for the audis and reconditions them and the bloke said that the signal sent to the Bose amp from the aftermarket headunit is different to the signal that is sent from the factory unit so I’d guess it’s something to do with that.
In regards to the dongle thing in heatshrink, that is a little board with a plug on it that the audio cables plug into. My speakers stopped working so I cut that open once and the connector had become unplugged inside. I think it’s there because the blue amp cable is connected through it aswell which is supposed to be for the amp to turn it on and that blue cable never used to be there on the older model units.

I have the same issue on my brand new dasaita 10.2 inch px5 android 8. Connected through RCA to my amp.
I will do some troubleshooting and see if I can figure it out.
BTW, there is a very loud static noise when my bluetooth is connected to my phone, I emailed dasaita about that particular issue.

checksum123 said:
I have the same issue on my brand new dasaita 10.2 inch px5 android 8. Connected through RCA to my amp.
I will do some troubleshooting and see if I can figure it out.
BTW, there is a very loud static noise when my bluetooth is connected to my phone, I emailed dasaita about that particular issue.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have the same unit with the same issues. Hot Audio sent me a replacement bluetooth module to solder in. That fixed the bluetooth noise. I still have slight background hiss all the time.

could you guys please take a look at my issue which includes electrical noise - even when radio is off.
e.g.
- downloading maps on Sygic, there is a clicking that goes with the increase in % of the download.
- browsing the menu and / or selecting apps has a varying noise
Interestingly, the rear-camera power seems unstable as does the GPS.
I also noted, that i couldn't power the unit on the bench via the vw quadlock connector, i had to use the white connector.
Makes me wonder if there is some general grounding problem that is the problem.
https://forum.xda-developers.com/an...droid-8-px5-mtcelmv2-881-vw-multiple-t3884665

I have an equal problem with my eonon px3 7.1, which is then klyde. Light rustling always constant, then when I register with the front usb camera the noise is much higher and seems a squeak of mouse .. I changed mb sent by them but the problem remains, even connecting the ground to the chassis of the car. Quache solution please guys, I'm going crazy.

gwaitsi said:
could you guys please take a look at my issue which includes electrical noise - even when radio is off.
e.g.
- downloading maps on Sygic, there is a clicking that goes with the increase in % of the download.
- browsing the menu and / or selecting apps has a varying noise
Interestingly, the rear-camera power seems unstable as does the GPS.
I also noted, that i couldn't power the unit on the bench via the vw quadlock connector, i had to use the white connector.
Makes me wonder if there is some general grounding problem that is the problem.
https://forum.xda-developers.com/an...droid-8-px5-mtcelmv2-881-vw-multiple-t3884665
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
ADB100 said:
I have a MTCD GS unit for an Audi TT and I get a feint electrical noise constantly through the cars speakers. If you have music or the radio on it is not too noticable but otherwise it is really obvious. It is definitely the unit as it isn't there with the stock head unit and if you hard reset the GS unit with the reset button whilst it is running it immediately goes away until the unit has booted. It was originally supplied with a RK3188/PX3 board running Android 5.0. I have since replaced the board with a PX5 board and have upgraded it to Android 8.0 (Malaysk). I isn't a software issue and is down to the hardware (I think...).
I have tried disabling WiFi and BlueTooth - although I don't think BlueTooth can be disabled as its not a native Android component of the system - and the noise remains. It is a feint pop and hiss noise that I think is an earth/grounding issue. I was going to replace the cable that goes to the WiFi antenna on the rear socket as this looks flimsy, however I am not sure it will make a difference.
Any ideas?
Andy
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have the same isue, almost gone when changed the poor quality antenna from the WIFI (used a 9DB antenna)
Pick one from amazon,
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GDCLVPJ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
You can try to purchase a extension canble an antenna and put away from the unit and the engine.
In my case the pops and hiss almos gone and are barely noticiable.
The qualty of the original antenna is horrible.

jerrymh said:
I have the same isue, almost gone when changed the poor quality antenna from the WIFI (used a 9DB antenna)
Pick one from amazon,
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GDCLVPJ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
You can try to purchase a extension canble an antenna and put away from the unit and the engine.
In my case the pops and hiss almos gone and are barely noticiable.
The qualty of the original antenna is horrible.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
by that token, simply turning off the wifi would prove it no?

gwaitsi said:
by that token, simply turning off the wifi would prove it no?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You would think so wouldn't you?
I have a couple of spare SMA WiFi antennas that I can try. If I get some time later today I'll try and get the head unit out of the dash and try them. I'll post whether it makes any difference (the spare antenna I have might also be crap though...).
Andy

What I found helped is that I put some ferrite beads on the power cables to the headunit and the speaker cables from the unit. It hasn’t totally removed the issue but it is certainly better and I haven’t lost any sound quality(if anything it’s slightly better as there’s less interference).

Dasaita rear camera not immediatly working

The Dasaita V600 does not switch on the rear view camera until the multimedia is turned on. the front parking camera displays immediately. the rear parking camera motor does not work until the dasaita v600 main screen is turned on What could be the reason? this is very bad. the car is running, the rear camera does not display images for 35 to 40 seconds until multimedia is turned on. the front parking camera gives the image immediately without waiting. There is no such problem for the multimedia of other brands. I thought of it as a software
Help Me
does every user have the same problem? the park camera will not work to start the car and move back and forth immediately. Wait for 40 seconds to turn on and then move on. this is ridiculous.

muratemre444 said:
The Dasaita V600 does not switch on the rear view camera until the multimedia is turned on. the front parking camera displays immediately. the rear parking camera motor does not work until the dasaita v600 main screen is turned on What could be the reason? .
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Faced this issue on my Dasaita HA2021-V600 but in my case a little work on canbus wires solved the problem.
Looking at connection diagram on top of your head unit you need to search a wire named "Reverse", in my case the wire the nr. 2 in orange color.
This wire in directly connected to canbus box; cut that wire and connect it from head unit side to +12V from reverse lamp.
After that you will see immediatly camera images when you put your car in reverse gear.
Now my turn for a question: what type of front camera are you using and how you have connected it to head unit and which harness you have used?
Hope my suggestion can help you
P.S.: Make that at your risk, im not responsible for whatever damage on your unit with my "mod".

iRcKenny said:
Faced this issue on my Dasaita HA2021-V600 but in my case a little work on canbus wires solved the problem.
Looking at connection diagram on top of your head unit you need to search a wire named "Reverse", in my case the wire the nr. 2 in orange color.
This wire in directly connected to canbus box; cut that wire and connect it from head unit side to +12V from reverse lamp.
After that you will see immediatly camera images when you put your car in reverse gear.
Now my turn for a question: what type of front camera are you using and how you have connected it to head unit and which harness you have used?
Hope my suggestion can help you
P.S.: Make that at your risk, im not responsible for whatever damage on your unit with my "mod".
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hello. To attach the front camera to the car, first go to the factory settings. Activate the camera in the last section there. how many secs you want to see. then buy and install any front rear camera.
Place the cable in the D. aux in glass on the device. now the front camera will help you when you leave the back cabin during each parking.

Thanks for your reply, but i dont understand what you said in:
muratemre444 said:
Place the cable in the D. aux in glass on the device.during each parking.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Can you explain better please?
Now your rear camera is working right?

iRcKenny said:
Faced this issue on my Dasaita HA2021-V600 but in my case a little work on canbus wires solved the problem.
Looking at connection diagram on top of your head unit you need to search a wire named "Reverse", in my case the wire the nr. 2 in orange color.
This wire in directly connected to canbus box; cut that wire and connect it from head unit side to +12V from reverse lamp.
After that you will see immediatly camera images when you put your car in reverse gear.
Now my turn for a question: what type of front camera are you using and how you have connected it to head unit and which harness you have used?
Hope my suggestion can help you
P.S.: Make that at your risk, im not responsible for whatever damage on your unit with my "mod".
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi,
I am having quite the same probem with my dasaita.
when I switch to reverse I can only see a black screen with the green guides and a sort of yellow alert.
Can you tell me the color of the +12V reverse lamp wire? did you find it behind the unit or you cought that +12v from the reverse bulb behind the car?
thank you
Mirko

MirkoCrb said:
Hi,
I am having quite the same probem with my dasaita.
when I switch to reverse I can only see a black screen with the green guides and a sort of yellow alert.
Can you tell me the color of the +12V reverse lamp wire? did you find it behind the unit or you cought that +12v from the reverse bulb behind the car?
thank you
Mirko
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you are facing that issue you simply need connect the yellow RCA cable from you rear camera to the right RCA connector in your head unit, you dont need perform any modification on HU wires; that RCA wire is usually labeled CAM-IN or Rear-IN. Check you connection
Also if you connection are OK the camera is not supplied with +12V and you need use the wire that come from the reverse lamp

iRcKenny said:
If you are facing that issue you simply need connect the yellow RCA cable from you rear camera to the right RCA connector in your head unit, you dont need perform any modification on HU wires; that RCA wire is usually labeled CAM-IN or Rear-IN. Check you connection
Also if you connection are OK the camera is not supplied with +12V and you need use the wire that come from the reverse lamp
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I tried that already. I think it's a problem with the cables. I contacted the Dasaita Support and suggested to work on 2 pins of the canbus.
thank you

MirkoCrb said:
I tried that already. I think it's a problem with the cables. I contacted the Dasaita Support and suggested to work on 2 pins of the canbus.
thank you
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not a probl with canbus. The only problem that canbus can do is "not switching on reverse gear". When you see the yellow "!" mark on screen mean that unit is not receiving video signal from camera.
Try this for checking the camera: connect the yellow RCA cable from reverse camera to AUX-Video IN harness and use AVIN app if you see images the camera is OK if not you need to check camera connections.
Cable 2 from canbus trigger only the "rear view" if the unit is not switch to reverse input.
What are the canbus setting on you factory setting menu? you car is an E46? what type of main connector are you using 17 or 40 pins?

iRcKenny said:
Not a probl with canbus. The only problem that canbus can do is "not switching on reverse gear". When you see the yellow "!" mark on screen mean that unit is not receiving video signal from camera.
Try this for checking the camera: connect the yellow RCA cable from reverse camera to AUX-Video IN harness and use AVIN app if you see images the camera is OK if not you need to check camera connections.
Cable 2 from canbus trigger only the "rear view" if the unit is not switch to reverse input.
What are the canbus setting on you factory setting menu? you car is an E46? what type of main connector are you using 17 or 40 pins?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
ok will try.
I don't know my car type..it's a Nissan Qashqai

problem solved
problem solved. the original camera was removed and replaced with another camera. electric power was taken as 12v from parking light. As the original camera was 6v and powered from the unit, the rear camera was not working until multimedia was turned on. everything works fine now

Max 6 wrx rear camera
I am having the same issue on my 2018 wrx limited. When I put it in reverse I get the yellow ! Or see a black screen with the guides. If I go to the AV in , I am able to see the reverse camera image. I have the Dasaita Max 6 (px6). Any assistance would be amazing!

zimbelj said:
I am having the same issue on my 2018 wrx limited. When I put it in reverse I get the yellow ! Or see a black screen with the guides. If I go to the AV in , I am able to see the reverse camera image. I have the Dasaita Max 6 (px6). Any assistance would be amazing!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Try plugging the reverse camera into the reverse camera input?

marchnz said:
Try plugging the reverse camera into the reverse camera input?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I tried that and tried every combination that I could think of with the Various RCA cables - just the yellows, all the rca connections, the different yellows. I think it may in an issue with whatever wire from the car that triggers the camera when it is put in to reverse.... I read somewhere that the harness provided from Dasaita may have an empty pin hole where that wire should be. I am not savvy enough to know. Thanks for taking time to try and assist. Any other tips to try? could this be a voltage issue?

muratemre444 said:
Hello. To attach the front camera to the car, first go to the factory settings. Activate the camera in the last section there. how many secs you want to see. then buy and install any front rear camera.
Place the cable in the D. aux in glass on the device. now the front camera will help you when you leave the back cabin during each parking.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I dont understand this. I also have android PX3, Back camera works as I put in reverse. Connected front camera tu AVIN, settings set to "enable front camera for 15sec after reverse". But I only see black screen.
When Manually open AVIN I see front camera, how do I enable this?
Thanks

Hello,
ich had also problems with the rear cam and that's what solved the problem in my case!
https://forum.xda-developers.com/an...s-general/wired-rear-cam-issue-fixed-t3964902
Best regards

Hi there everybody,
I recently noticed my PX6 unit doesn't see any of the front / rear cameras. With all wires connected the f-cam app shows the orange triangle (no signal) for both front and back cameras. The same happens if I give a 12v signal to the reverse (pink) wire.
I never got to install the backup camera in my car but I did bench tests with a power source and had the cameras working when I first got the unit. Now, a few months later, the cameras simply don't work
I tested with 2 different cameras and also with a DVD player and none worked.
I even opened the unit and checked the motherboard to see if there is a fried circuit or IC...and saw nothing. The video inputs lead to a IC labeled "FMS6502" and the signal gets to it through a 75ohm resistor and a capacitor which both look okay.
What can it be?
Please give me your opinions on this as it drives me crazy !
Thank you!

I would guess your headunit is not providing the 12 volts to both cameras
Hi , I remember your Fcam app requires you to connect your front view camera to your f cam video input and provides thru another lead a 12 volt output in which you can conect the power for both your front and rear camera. If both cameras dont work most possible the radio is not providing the 12 volt output .
cflaviu said:
Hi there everybody,
I recently noticed my PX6 unit doesn't see any of the front / rear cameras. With all wires connected the f-cam app shows the orange triangle (no signal) for both front and back cameras. The same happens if I give a 12v signal to the reverse (pink) wire.
I never got to install the backup camera in my car but I did bench tests with a power source and had the cameras working when I first got the unit. Now, a few months later, the cameras simply don't work
I tested with 2 different cameras and also with a DVD player and none worked.
I even opened the unit and checked the motherboard to see if there is a fried circuit or IC...and saw nothing. The video inputs lead to a IC labeled "FMS6502" and the signal gets to it through a 75ohm resistor and a capacitor which both look okay.
What can it be?
Please give me your opinions on this as it drives me crazy !
Thank you!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse

Megv6265 said:
Hi , I remember your Fcam app requires you to connect your front view camera to your f cam video input and provides thru another lead a 12 volt output in which you can conect the power for both your front and rear camera. If both cameras dont work most possible the radio is not providing the 12 volt output .
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What. You've just said, connect the front and rear camera and the +12v feed. The headunit doesn't provide a 12v output for the cameras.
Not surprised at the guess, these topics generally are guessing games.
I'd suggest finding a skilled car audio tech or auto electrician. That's not meant to be an oxymoron, seriously

Honda HR-V Dasaita HA5248-V480-8 Android Head Unit impressions

I was not sure where to post this because I kindof hijacked the Honda Connect Android thread with alternative solutions so I decided to create a new thread here as it seems more apropriate. I hope this will help others decide on an aftermarket unit that suit their needs.
The unit I bought and pictures with comments.
01.11.2018
I forgot to mention, there are no issues with porlarized sunglasses (vision impaired like I have, or regular). Usually LCD screens are polarized so if you have polarized glasses you only see the full display colors and brightness at a fixed angle 0 or 90 degrees (head straight or tilted to one side). This unit does not suffer from this issue like older phones did. (after posting I noticed I did mention this in my previous note )
28.10.2018
I'm really happy with the unit:
- response time is as fast as you expect it to be (as in touch - do stuff vs. click - you got it, hold on it's comming, almost there, just keep spinning windows/macos stuff)
- display is bright/direct sunlight, polarized sunglasses not an issue
- you can disable most of the inputs that source (steerwheel button) cycles through, except of A/V in (which I think is the LaneWatch camera)
- switching between radio, music, Waze and other apps is instant
- Waze only crashed once during a 450km ride, in the same area it crashes on my phone as well ... really Google ?
In the end I guess it's all about personal prefference about the preinstalled software which you can replace with apps from play store (or other sources) to your liking, so I'm not gonna comment on that as most of the defaults are fine for me it's fine. There are however a vew caveats to consider:
- Since I don't use my google account and created a new one for the unit I don't have access to my contacts. Altho the unit syncs your contacts via bluetooth to the phone app, 'OK Google' cannot use that.
- The default phone app does not have any favourites options, so your best bet is to use the last recent calls. But that list is not synced with your phone, it's only the list from when your phone was connected with the car (tried MTCDTelephonyBridge, did not work).
- There are some volume issues which I could not figure out (yet ). Navigation volume is set on MIXIN and has a range from -10 to + 10. At first I had it on -5, it was very low, then I moved to +7, fine for a while until it became too loud, lowerd to +5 and it was very low, bumped it again to +7 and it was the same low. I wish they would do the 'smart' thing like the original HU and just output navigation to front left speaker (that's the only clever thing I noticed in the decade old default Honda unit)
- Only one screw can be used to fix the unit, the original ones don't fit as they have huge integrated washers. You don't really need to fix it as it won't go anywhere but still, worth mentioning. Also I wanted to insulate all the cables with the same kind of foam that you find around air conditioning pipes, so that the cables don't touch the back plate of the unit. After taking the dashboard off again, I realized there is a ton of space there so the cables will not touch the back of the unit holding the radiator, which anyway is just for the TDA amp, so there was no reason to. If you go for a 2din unit, extra space will be smaller but still plenty of room on the bottom part.
24.10.2018
A few notes of my initial experience after installing the new unit:
1. First and most important for me, the 2 USB ports of the car have different connectors (mindblown). They look the same, but one of them has a different gap (or slit, not sure of the exact word) in one of the corners as you can see in this picture. The adapter provided only fits the gray connector. I'm not sure if the 2nd adapter that I ordered will fit the green one or not (maybe with some tunning it will fit). Now, it's not that important for everyone as you can still very easy pull the 2 other USB ports in the glove compartment (which I did), but now I have 2 unused slots: USB and HDMI.
2. For OCD types, the unit I got has a 9" screen (instead of 8" as described) so the frame that holds the part of the dashboard that you need to remove in order to install the HU stands on top of the screen covering the right part of the screen bezel and the 2nd mic instead of being around the screen (I hope that makes sense). The front pannel itself (bezels included) is a bit larger than the hole in the dashboard. This results in the actual screen being buried about 1cm below the dashboard line (about 5mm more than the original one). This interfeers a bit with the access to the 'hardware' buttons on the left side, but as a driver you don't need them as you can do all that from the steering wheel controlls. One side benefit could be that there is less sunlight hitting the screen. I will update with daytime pictures.
3. There are only 2 screws that can fix the new unit, but the original ones don't fit because of the embeded washers (which can not be removed from the screws ... why ????). The unit will not go anyware thanks to the fitting holes and the dashboard being linked with frame I mentioned before. I will still go look for some replacement screws, just in case.
4. Time for the good part. The difference between the original unit and this one ... day and night. Everithing is so fast and works as it's supposed to. Even the cold boot seems faster (20s or so) than the hot start of the original unit. I still have to test the ergonomics while driving and the long term stability of the whole system, but the first impressions are very positive. You would still have to configure a few things here and there to match you preferences or missing features (like proportion between navigation and music and sound level for different sources - like music and bluetooth, missing lane watch camera - which defaults to on and when you signal right unit will show a warning because of missing camera signal, direction lines when using the reverse camera - which are off by default etc.). There are a ton of options to configure. Plus you get some extra stuff like status of open doors, status of parking sensors, AC feedback (it also has an app for control but does not seem to do anything, I will dig deeper at some point but I don't find it that usefull, still cool tho), automatic door locking when you pass a set speed limit (I have not tested this yet), and probably some others which I am eager to discover.
I will update this post to share my experience with the new unit.

kind3r said:
I was not sure where to post this because I kindof hijacked the Honda Connect Android thread with alternative solutions so I decided to create a new thread here as it seems more apropriate. I hope this will help others decide on an aftermarket unit that suit their needs.
The unit I bought and pictures with comments.
24.10.2018
A few notes of my initial experience after installing the new unit:
1. First and most important for me, the 2 USB ports of the car have different connectors (mindblown). They look the same, but one of them has a different gap (or slit, not sure of the exact word) in one of the corners as you can see in this picture. The adapter provided only fits the gray connector. I'm not sure if the 2nd adapter that I ordered will fit the green one or not (maybe with some tunning it will fit). Now, it's not that important for everyone as you can still very easy pull the 2 other USB ports in the glove compartment (which I did), but now I have 2 unused slots: USB and HDMI.
2. For OCD types, the unit I got has a 9" screen (instead of 8" as described) so the frame that holds the part of the dashboard that you need to remove in order to install the HU stands on top of the screen covering the right part of the screen bezel and the 2nd mic instead of being around the screen (I hope that makes sense). The front pannel itself (bezels included) is a bit larger than the hole in the dashboard. This results in the actual screen being buried about 1cm below the dashboard line (about 5mm more than the original one). This interfeers a bit with the access to the 'hardware' buttons on the left side, but as a driver you don't need them as you can do all that from the steering wheel controlls. One side benefit could be that there is less sunlight hitting the screen. I will update with daytime pictures.
3. There are only 2 screws that can fix the new unit, but the original ones don't fit because of the embeded washers (which can not be removed from the screws ... why ????). The unit will not go anyware thanks to the fitting holes and the dashboard being linked with frame I mentioned before. I will still go look for some replacement screws, just in case.
4. Time for the good part. The difference between the original unit and this one ... day and night. Everithing is so fast and works as it's supposed to. Even the cold boot seems faster (20s or so) than the hot start of the original unit. I still have to test the ergonomics while driving and the long term stability of the whole system, but the first impressions are very positive. You would still have to configure a few things here and there to match you preferences or missing features (like proportion between navigation and music and sound level for different sources - like music and bluetooth, missing lane watch camera - which defaults to on and when you signal right unit will show a warning because of missing camera signal, direction lines when using the reverse camera - which are off by default etc.). There are a ton of options to configure. Plus you get some extra stuff like status of open doors, status of parking sensors, AC feedback (it also has an app for control but does not seem to do anything, I will dig deeper at some point but I don't find it that usefull, still cool tho), automatic door locking when you pass a set speed limit (I have not tested this yet), and probably some others which I am eager to discover.
I will update this post to share my experience with the new unit.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Are you sure you asked for the correct unit or dasaita sent to you the correct unit?
Enviado desde mi SM-G950F mediante Tapatalk

ikerg said:
Are you sure you asked for the correct unit or dasaita sent to you the correct unit?
Enviado desde mi SM-G950F mediante Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Could you be more specific ? There is a link to the unit I bought and pictures in the first post. I asked the seller about compatibility and other stuff before purchasing and he assured me that all is ok. I'm not saing I'm not happy with the unit, the small differences don't bother me, but others might be bugged by those details. Overall I'm just sharing my experience while highlighting differences between expectations (aka product description) and reality

@ kind3r: bought one for my CRV also.. got the same issue with those 3 connections I think its the 2 usb & 1 hdmi connection in the console box of our car. I'm currently looking for a solution for the AC control, and IMID display setting for the steering wheel. I haven't really tinkered with the setting so maybe its just setting or connection issue. Could you pls. update me if you discover the AC thing or other features that you have unlock with your unit.

Is the wheel button works good??

hafidelbazdari said:
Is the weel button works good??
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What's a weel button?
Gesendet von meinem Redmi Note 5 mit Tapatalk

Wifi and Bluetooth..how to they going for you..
Internal speaker for hands free or using external?
What phone are you connecting to it..apple or Android?

kind3r said:
....the 2 USB ports of the car have different connectors...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Maybe that's because one is for charging? So they separated them via different connectors.
kind3r said:
2. For OCD types, the unit I got has a 9" screen (instead of 8" as described)...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
At the Dasaita Official Store they sell it as a 9" unit.
At the MTKNAVI Store they sell the "same" units.
Main advantage of MTKNAVI store: they ship from EU/Germany. Means no trouble about custom and taxes.
Thanks a lot for creating this thread. I am looking forward to hearing and seeing more from your Dasaita/HR-V experience.

HNDXCRV said:
@ kind3r: bought one for my CRV also.. got the same issue with those 3 connections I think its the 2 usb & 1 hdmi connection in the console box of our car. I'm currently looking for a solution for the AC control, and IMID display setting for the steering wheel. I haven't really tinkered with the setting so maybe its just setting or connection issue. Could you pls. update me if you discover the AC thing or other features that you have unlock with your unit.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think it's just so that they only fit one way so service people don't reverse them. Both did the same charging and connection, mirrorlink etc. so I can't really tell if there is actually a difference between them.
The only way I see a connection with the IMID display (mine is next to the speedometer) is via the canbus. I think that traffic is encrypted tho because I saw no mention about it anywhere so far. I'm not even sure if you can set the clock. I will do some more research on the subject.
My unit has an AC app, but it does not control anything. I will dig into that as well, tho I don't find it useful.
hafidelbazdari said:
Is the wheel button works good??
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, all wheel buttons work but some with different functions. Hangup button also works as back, source switches between a lot of (some useless for me) apps like the ones for AV inputs but the navigation app is not included (I wish you could set a list of apps to cycle through), the task switcher that used to switch between nav, audio and phone now is the home button, the shortcut button acts as the old android menu button and the voice command does mute. There is no long press 2nd function except for left and right in radio app. I guess installing MTCDTools could improve the situation but I'm ok with the standard config.
dgcruzing said:
Wifi and Bluetooth..how to they going for you..
Internal speaker for hands free or using external?
What phone are you connecting to it..apple or Android?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I use a phone that sits in the truck for internet via WiFi, no issues so far. For bluetooth/handsfree I use an iPhone, sound quaility is very good both ways, way better than the stock one. Time will tell.
I'm not sure what you mean by internal speaker. It uses the car sound system and speakers and I also connected the external mic that came with the unit and placed it close to the ignition button.
Manfred.62 said:
Maybe that's because one is for charging? So they separated them via different connectors.
At the Dasaita Official Store they sell it as a 9" unit.
At the MTKNAVI Store they sell the "same" units.
Main advantage of MTKNAVI store: they ship from EU/Germany. Means no trouble about custom and taxes.
Thanks a lot for creating this thread. I am looking forward to hearing and seeing more from your Dasaita/HR-V experience.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah, the taxes thing was a big advantage for me as they usually ship with DHL so you have to pay custom tax and also DHL tax for handling custom tax for you. My unit was shipped from UK, still EU for the next 6 month or so . Also I initially wrote to Dasaita Official Store and I still have not got a reply. MTKNAVI replied within a few hours.

kind3r said:
I think it's just so that they only fit one way so service people don't reverse them. Both did the same charging and connection, mirrorlink etc. so I can't really tell if there is actually a difference between them.
The only way I see a connection with the IMID display (mine is next to the speedometer) is via the canbus. I think that traffic is encrypted tho because I saw no mention about it anywhere so far. I'm not even sure if you can set the clock. I will do some more research on the subject.
My unit has an AC app, but it does not control anything. I will dig into that as well, tho I don't find it useful.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
wanted to change the date & time in my IMID display thats why im looking for workaround.. AC app? what's the name of the app? is it built in? i want to see the climate settings for novelty

kind3r said:
I think it's just so that they only fit one way so service people don't reverse them. Both did the same charging and connection, mirrorlink etc. so I can't really tell if there is actually a difference between them.
The only way I see a connection with the IMID display (mine is next to the speedometer) is via the canbus. I think that traffic is encrypted tho because I saw no mention about it anywhere so far. I'm not even sure if you can set the clock. I will do some more research on the subject.
My unit has an AC app, but it does not control anything. I will dig into that as well, tho I don't find it useful.
Yes, all wheel buttons work but some with different functions. Hangup button also works as back, source switches between a lot of (some useless for me) apps like the ones for AV inputs but the navigation app is not included (I wish you could set a list of apps to cycle through), the task switcher that used to switch between nav, audio and phone now is the home button, the shortcut button acts as the old android menu button and the voice command does mute. There is no long press 2nd function except for left and right in radio app. I guess installing MTCDTools could improve the situation but I'm ok with the standard config.
I use a phone that sits in the truck for internet via WiFi, no issues so far. For bluetooth/handsfree I use an iPhone, sound quaility is very good both ways, way better than the stock one. Time will tell.
I'm not sure what you mean by internal speaker. It uses the car sound system and speakers and I also connected the external mic that came with the unit and placed it close to the ignition button.
Yeah, the taxes thing was a big advantage for me as they usually ship with DHL so you have to pay custom tax and also DHL tax for handling custom tax for you. My unit was shipped from UK, still EU for the next 6 month or so . Also I initially wrote to Dasaita Official Store and I still have not got a reply. MTKNAVI replied within a few hours.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hello, For the bluetooth connection, did you use the built-in microphone of the car? if so, Did you add an adapter to operate the integrated microphone of the car?

hafidelbazdari said:
Hello, For the bluetooth connection, did you use the built-in microphone of the car? if so, Did you add an adapter to operate the integrated microphone of the car?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No, I used the external mic provided with the new unit.

kind3r said:
No, I used the external mic provided with the new unit.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Can you send me please a picture of this mic?

hafidelbazdari said:
Can you send me please a picture of this mic?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You can see it in this picture on the left side (near the speedometer): https://photos.google.com/share/AF1...?key=cy04WUVYY3RrYTBYSXM0Q1RjSFEzd2RNM1h1ZEd3
Also you can see it in the description of the Dasaita unit at Aliexpress.

Manfred.62 said:
You can see it in this picture on the left side (near the speedometer): https://photos.google.com/share/AF1...?key=cy04WUVYY3RrYTBYSXM0Q1RjSFEzd2RNM1h1ZEd3
Also you can see it in the description of the Dasaita unit at Aliexpress.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ok thank you, if we have any idea to hide it .it will be better . What the you think?

hafidelbazdari said:
Ok thank you, if we have any idea to hide it .it will be better . What the you think?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Using adapter cables. So one can use the inbuilt microphone and GPS module. We just have to find the correct cables via ebay, Aliexpress...
@kind3r
did you found a connector at the Dasaita harness with 12pin (instead of 14pin at EU version of Connect unit)? That must be connector D in the attached file. Found this info in a german HRV forum. He didn't use this connector (no problems so far).

hafidelbazdari said:
Can you send me please a picture of this mic?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sligthly better bicture of the mic in the final position.

Manfred.62 said:
Using adapter cables. So one can use the inbuilt microphone and GPS module. We just have to find the correct cables via ebay, Aliexpress...
@kind3r
did you found a connector at the Dasaita harness with 12pin (instead of 14pin at EU version of Connect unit)? That must be connector D in the attached file. Found this info in a german HRV forum. He didn't use this connector (no problems so far).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Wow, nice find. I was actually looking for that before buying a unit but could not find any schematics.
The back pannel arrangement of the connectors is not similar to my original unit see a picture of the back of mine here, but connectors seem to be more or less the same. Now, not all the connectors on the car have a corespondend on the harness and viceversa. The connector you are reffering to must be the Sirius XM receiver (? satelite radio) which as far as I know is not available in EU. Also, the USB connectors look the same in your document but in my case they are a bit different by just a small notch. What is the functionality you are interested in so I can tell you if it works for me or not.
On a side note, I have tested the unit during the last few days using the auto sleep feature, witch does not do a shutdown + cold boot so the unit starts in 1-2 seconds after you start the car. There is still a small delay after that when you get notifications about the SD card and USB stick that are being mounted so that's another 2-3 seconds until playback resumes, so it's still faster than the cold boot which takes around 25 seconds. But as android tends to be like windows on the long term, I will stick with the cold boot 'mode'.
As @HNDXCRV and others mentioned, I could not find a way to set the clock on the factory display. But as DST changed in my country, with a big bang I might add (earthquake during the night, could not sleep after that :/) to my surprise the car's clock changed as well. So I guess there is some communication from the HU, at least for time. My guess is playing in Factory Settings could result in AC being controlled from the unit as well. But I don't really see the point in doing that since dedicated hardware buttons are better than touching a display.
Some were concerned about the performance of the display in direct sunlight. Today was a sunny day, I took a trip to the seaside and I can tell you I had no issues looking at the display with my polarised sunglases on. Also the angle of the polarisation did not seem to matter as tilting my head did not do anything to the brightness level or colors, so kudos for that, it's a really nice display. At some point I was looking through the settings and realized it was only at 75% brightness.
Overall I really love this unit. Of course it's not perfect and there is some room for improvement here and there, but there are no words to describe the difference of (first and foremost for me) performance, sound quality, level of customization, size and quality of the display. Most of the small things that bother me are due to software ergonomics say like the radio app having a dedicated button for stereo lock, instead of something more useful (not that anything comes to mind right now). You have to customize a bit to your liking, I have uninstalled/disabled apps that cycle via the source button on the steering wheel, changed the volumes of navigation, radio, music, a2dp etc. to my personal preference. Also there are a ton of replacement apps for the stock ones, play store is full of choices if you have enough time to try them out, like launchers, dialers, music apps etc.
I still have to update to the latest Android version (unit came with 20180809, latest is 20181011, but with newer MCU 2.98_1) but since there is no reason to, I will hold off for the moment. I am tempted to do a full reset of the unit as there are some leftovers from the seller testing the unit like paierd phones etc. (not that it matters too much).

@kind3r
thanks a lot for your infos. Seems like this device is really worth it. I can not decide yet.
What I like to do if...
connect the original GPS (via adapter, found in ebay)
connect the original microphone (via adapter, not found yet)
Questions:
the radio has RDS fully working (channel names, radio text, traffic TP/TA) ?
is the Dasaita usable without internet connection (only radio or mp3) or does it throw error messages?
does "Ok Google" work? Or do we need the MtcDialer
Because of updates: maybe it's best to do it at the beginning.

For the GPS adaptor it will still take around 2 weeks to get to me so I can post some feedback about it.
I could not find any reference in the connectors for the integrated mic. I'm not sure if an adapter exists. At first I thought this will bother me but it tursn out it's not really that big of a deal. Sound quality is way better than with the original mic/HU combination.
RDS is working but unfortunatelly I cannot test traffic as it is not available in my country. The radio app has switches to enable disable TA and TP but since there is no broadcast for that ... they don't do anything for me.
It should not throw errors without an internet connection but for me the whole point was to use it with Waze for the realtime traffic information. There is a version of iGO preinstalled with Europe maps on an 8G SD card. I will probably buy a bigger card that can fit the iGO maps and music so I have an offline navigation as a backup just in case.
'OK Google' is working but unfortunatelly I think it uses the contacts from the google account and does not use the contacts synced via bluetooth from the paired phone. Since I created a new account for the car I don't have any contacts but I will add some just to test. MTCDialer did not work for me, it always crashes on launch.

Dasaita Head Unit just died ?

Hi everyone,
I have ordered almost 2 years ago a Dasaita 9" Android 10 Head Unit (4G 64G Octa Core) for my 2009 Forester. Until yesterday the device worked fine, I really loved and enjoyed it, I was really impressed with it. The only thing I change I was the launcher and mainly used it for Google Maps, Spotify and Torque Pro.
Yesterday on my way to my mate’s, 50km on the way, the head unit just stopped working, I was just using google maps and listening some tunes on Spotify. (note: the screen was hot to the touch).
Since then the screen is totally black and the only thing that lights up when I turn on the lights are the side buttons. I tried to reset, the lights are flashing then nothing. No matter what the screen remains dead. Also I noticed my OBD2 adapter doesn’t connect automatically to the HU as it used to and I can’t connect by Bluetooth with my phone neither.
All this brings me to think that the HU is dead ????
I saw few videos and threads online with people having more or less the same issue… anyone got a solution or faced the same problem ?
Thank you for the help

What steps have been taken to investigate

MrPoopyButtOle said:
Hi everyone,
I have ordered almost 2 years ago a Dasaita 9" Android 10 Head Unit (4G 64G Octa Core) for my 2009 Forester. Until yesterday the device worked fine, I really loved and enjoyed it, I was really impressed with it. The only thing I change I was the launcher and mainly used it for Google Maps, Spotify and Torque Pro.
Yesterday on my way to my mate’s, 50km on the way, the head unit just stopped working, I was just using google maps and listening some tunes on Spotify. (note: the screen was hot to the touch).
Since then the screen is totally black and the only thing that lights up when I turn on the lights are the side buttons. I tried to reset, the lights are flashing then nothing. No matter what the screen remains dead. Also I noticed my OBD2 adapter doesn’t connect automatically to the HU as it used to and I can’t connect by Bluetooth with my phone neither.
All this brings me to think that the HU is dead ????
I saw few videos and threads online with people having more or less the same issue… anyone got a solution or faced the same problem ?
Thank you for the help
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'd pull the unit and check you didn't just lose you 12v or ground cable.

gottahavit said:
I'd pull the unit and check you didn't just lose you 12v or ground cable.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you for your answers.
So I have pulled the unit out and checked with the multimeter, I’ve got a good ground and I read 12V (from the harness adapter). These seems fine right ?!

I assume you've tried the reset button?
Does the Daisata have a detachable screen? On my joying I'd check the ribbon cable.
Next I'd attach the 12v and ground to an external source(got a battery charger around?)
If that all fails then I guess try to talk to the Seller.

gottahavit said:
I assume you've tried the reset button?
Does the Daisata have a detachable screen? On my joying I'd check the ribbon cable.
Next I'd attach the 12v and ground to an external source(got a battery charger around?)
If that all fails then I guess try to talk to the Seller.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The screen isn’t detachable.
I got in touch with the seller and that’s his reply:
“1. Do you try to power off the device to check?
2. If you have power off and it still doesn\'t help. Please remove the power cable and then wait 3 minutes to plug it again.
3. After plug the power cable, wait 3 minutes, and then click the touch screen button to check whether you can hear the sound.
4. If you can hear the sound, you can check the 2 bands in the following:
https://image.pushauction.com/0/0/dce5012a-1758-4291-8a6d-52d646eb6789/d770b77d-524c-47b5-8e88-6454abf03318.jpg
Here is the video for you to check how to unplug one band:
you can follow it to check another bands.
5. If the step 4 don't help, you can check the unplug the core chip, and then plug it aigan:
6. If the step 5 don\'t help, please use the pin to press the RST after you reconnect the power cable. You should press the RST hole until you saw the button light is flashing
to check whether you can see the image now.”
I’ve followed the steps 1 to 3 and nothing happened, no sounds.
just got back from work and I’m gonna give a shot to no4, unplug the chip…

I would press the reset pin as the first step, but as long as they are helping you through it.

If the unit has HDMI output, I would suggest hooking up an external monitor. If you see a valid image on the external monitor, then most likely the problem is the LCD display in the head unit. If nothing is displayed on the external then it's likely the core board or some part of the mainboard which may have overheated. These units have many weak points that can render them useless.
I will share with you that I had this exact same unit as yours and the TFT board (it's the board that interfaces the LCD display to the mainboard) had a component burn up which left the screen dark. Dasaita provided a new TFT board which got the display working again. If you do manage to get the unit going again, never run the display brightness at 100% or you risk having the TFT board problem.

Requested moderator to move this thread to MTCD Android Head Units General.

jlbooth said:
If the unit has HDMI output, I would suggest hooking up an external monitor. If you see a valid image on the external monitor, then most likely the problem is the LCD display in the head unit. If nothing is displayed on the external then it's likely the core board or some part of the mainboard which may have overheated. These units have many weak points that can render them useless.
I will share with you that I had this exact same unit as yours and the TFT board (it's the board that interfaces the LCD display to the mainboard) had a component burn up which left the screen dark. Dasaita provided a new TFT board which got the display working again. If you do manage to get the unit going again, never run the display brightness at 100% or you risk having the TFT board problem.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There isn’t a HDMI output, is there another way I could hook it up to a monitor ???
It’s interesting what you’re saying about the brightness, I often had it on max during the day and my partner who had the car on the day the unit died told me that she had the car heaters on ( it’s cold in the part of Australia where we at) and noticed that just before dying the screen brightness went dim.
it’s really confusing right now as I can’t figure out what exactly is the problem.
I tried everything the seller suggested and nothing worked. How long did your unit last ? I’m just wondering if I should just get a new one but it is annoying as I only had it for 2 years and I got the top of the range (at the time) from them.
Thank you

Only other option I can think of is that there may be composite video out connections via RCA connections if it has those. Since you say it does not connect to your phone via Bluetooth, that suggests the unit is not booting up when power removed and reconnected. I would venture a guess that the coreboard has an issue especially if the problem was caused by a thermal issue. But that's only an inconclusive guess on my part.
Even when the screen was an issue the unit would boot up and it connected with my phone.
My unit lasted about 5 months before the screen problem. However it was in my second vehicle and it wasn't my daily driver, thus it probably wouldn't have lasted that long if it was being used everyday. Fortunately in my case Dasaita provided the needed replacement board at no charge under warranty.

MrPoopyButtOle said:
The screen isn’t detachable.
I got in touch with the seller and that’s his reply:
“1. Do you try to power off the device to check?
2. If you have power off and it still doesn\'t help. Please remove the power cable and then wait 3 minutes to plug it again.
3. After plug the power cable, wait 3 minutes, and then click the touch screen button to check whether you can hear the sound.
4. If you can hear the sound, you can check the 2 bands in the following:
https://image.pushauction.com/0/0/dce5012a-1758-4291-8a6d-52d646eb6789/d770b77d-524c-47b5-8e88-6454abf03318.jpg
Here is the video for you to check how to unplug one band:
you can follow it to check another bands.
5. If the step 4 don't help, you can check the unplug the core chip, and then plug it aigan:
6. If the step 5 don\'t help, please use the pin to press the RST after you reconnect the power cable. You should press the RST hole until you saw the button light is flashing
to check whether you can see the image now.”
I’ve followed the steps 1 to 3 and nothing happened, no sounds.
just got back from work and I’m gonna give a shot to no4, unplug the chip…
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
From my teardowns of my MAX10 unit (Toyota Universal + PX6 + Car Play), you have a little driver board behind the screen. It isn't the same as the picture you sent as mine is a universal type unit. On yours all the buttons are off the big pcb board and the driver board is soldered onto that (so not physically removable without some soldering). But if the buttons light up then your unit is turning on somewhat. So what I can see from step 4: #2 is the ribbon connecting the screen driver board to the mainboard; #3 is ribbon connector for the lcd display panel, #1 is your CPU board. There's a photo translator app on google play if you want to give that a try with the labels in Chinese.
Best of luck with this mate. The HDMI out is a mini HDMI connector on the CPU board - see if you can get that to display something on a spare screen (on later units they just have a cable to that directly and they sell it off as having hdmi out). If it doesn't output anything then your CPU is potentially dead at this point. There is an STM32 microcontroller (i.e. the MCU) on the amp board and that can be powering up the button lights.

That "driver board" that @nxdesign refers to is the TFT board that Dasaita provided a replacement when my unit died. I could tell that my particular unit was at least booting up as I could see that it was pairing with bluetooth on my phone. I tend to believe OP's problem is either CPU or MCU failure - perhaps thermal related. These units don't provide adequate cooling.

You're welcome to send it to me in NZ, I often get SOMs sent to me for repair and would be happy to look at your unit. Failing that, suggest warranty.

nxdesign said:
From my teardowns of my MAX10 unit (Toyota Universal + PX6 + Car Play), you have a little driver board behind the screen. It isn't the same as the picture you sent as mine is a universal type unit. On yours all the buttons are off the big pcb board and the driver board is soldered onto that (so not physically removable without some soldering). But if the buttons light up then your unit is turning on somewhat. So what I can see from step 4: #2 is the ribbon connecting the screen driver board to the mainboard; #3 is ribbon connector for the lcd display panel, #1 is your CPU board. There's a photo translator app on google play if you want to give that a try with the labels in Chinese.
Best of luck with this mate. The HDMI out is a mini HDMI connector on the CPU board - see if you can get that to display something on a spare screen (on later units they just have a cable to that directly and they sell it off as having hdmi out). If it doesn't output anything then your CPU is potentially dead at this point. There is an STM32 microcontroller (i.e. the MCU) on the amp board and that can be powering up the button lights.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you for your help mate !
I couldn’t find this hdmi connector on the board. The seller is telling me it’s probably the core board and said the shipping cost isn’t worth it to send it back to them. Is there a different way to check the display ???

MrPoopyButtOle said:
Thank you for your help mate !
I couldn’t find this hdmi connector on the board. The seller is telling me it’s probably the core board and said the shipping cost isn’t worth it to send it back to them. Is there a different way to check the display ???
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
A dead coreboard will mean you have a shell of a unit. Can they sell you a fresh coreboard? Or even better give you a new unit at a discount? Who knows what else might have been damaged with the heat.

Just an update on this. The unit was sent to me and received today.
The root cause was that the SOM was non-booting. Recovering the SOM via MASKROM has restored the unit.
The SOM has no additional heatsink or cooling, and this may have been a contributing factor.

can u tell me how do u fix it?? i also have same problem....?

Nothing worked after I did everything the merchant suggested. What was the lifespan of your unit? I'm wondering if I should just get a new one, but it's a pain because I just had it for two years and it was the top of the line (at the time).