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Hi,
I have an Android 5.1 .1 unit with RK3188 chip 1G RAM. All works well but there is a weird rear camera issue. When I start the car and switch to backup gear, the rear camera always works normally, however, after driving 10 minutes or longer the camera does not work anymore and the screen shows an exclamation mark when gear switched to backup. This happens approximately 80% times, while the other 20% times the camera would work OK even after long driving time.
The camera is wired normally with power connected to backup light. Backup light power is also connect to the head unit as trigger for rear camera video.
I was initially thinking this could be a bad camera issue, but the problem persists after installation of a new camera. So it must be the unit.
Has anyone else experienced similar problem? Any help to fix the issue is much appreciated.
yves31 said:
Hi,
I have an Android 5.1 .1 unit with RK3188 chip 1G RAM. All works well but there is a weird rear camera issue. When I start the car and switch to backup gear, the rear camera always works normally, however, after driving 10 minutes or longer the camera does not work anymore and the screen shows an exclamation mark when gear switched to backup. This happens approximately 80% times, while the other 20% times the camera would work OK even after long driving time.
The camera is wired normally with power connected to backup light. Backup light power is also connect to the head unit as trigger for rear camera video.
I was initially thinking this could be a bad camera issue, but the problem persists after installation of a new camera. So it must be the unit.
Has anyone else experienced similar problem? Any help to fix the issue is much appreciated.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
modern car? possibly smart power management and therefore not sending enough power to the camera as it detects the reverse light not needing that much power. my vw golf does it and my friends bmw 1 series did, if its wired to a switch 12v does it do the same?
fma965 said:
modern car? possibly smart power management and therefore not sending enough power to the camera as it detects the reverse light not needing that much power. my vw golf does it and my friends bmw 1 series did, if its wired to a switch 12v does it do the same?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you, fma965. That makes sense.
The car is 2013 Prius. I did not realize cars are getting much smarter since last few years. 12v can come down a lot to save energy. I'll try to rewire the power connection.
yves31 said:
Thank you, fma965. That makes sense.
The car is 2013 Prius. I did not realize cars are getting much smarter since last few years. 12v can come down a lot to save energy. I'll try to rewire the power connection.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
you may need to use a relay to detect when reverse light is on then trigger camera via 12v connection (elsewhere) otherwise the camera will be always on
yves31 said:
Thank you, fma965. That makes sense.
The car is 2013 Prius. I did not realize cars are getting much smarter since last few years. 12v can come down a lot to save energy. I'll try to rewire the power connection.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
http://www.halfords.com/workshop-to...fixings/halfords-hef554-relay-12v-30amp-4-pin is what i've used (UK)
12v cigareete lighter / battery to 1 pin, gnd to another pin, camera to the 3rd pin and the reverse light power to the 4th pin (not in that order)
fma965 said:
http://www.halfords.com/workshop-to...fixings/halfords-hef554-relay-12v-30amp-4-pin is what i've used (UK)
12v cigareete lighter / battery to 1 pin, gnd to another pin, camera to the 3rd pin and the reverse light power to the 4th pin (not in that order)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks. I ordered a 12v/30amp/4pin relay and will install according to your instructions when it arrives.
fma965 said:
http://www.halfords.com/workshop-to...fixings/halfords-hef554-relay-12v-30amp-4-pin is what i've used (UK)
12v cigareete lighter / battery to 1 pin, gnd to another pin, camera to the 3rd pin and the reverse light power to the 4th pin (not in that order)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Relay came yesterday and I installed it. Pull cigarette lighter as 12v power source, wired to the relay switch, and connected rear light cable to relay as trigger.
To my surprise, the problem of video still persists! I can get rear camera video when starting the car, but loss video ~10 minutes after driving when shifting gear to reverse.
I made sure the relay wired correctly (If connected wrong, I would be either stuck in permanent rear camera video or no video after shifting to rear gear). I changed video cable as well to be sure no cable issue. Also noticed that when the problem appears, I have to wait for the head unit to shutdown completely (not to sleep mode) in order to get video back from rear camera.
Not sure if this is MCU bug. The problem started since I had the unit and MCU got updated once. I'll update one more time to see if anything changes.
yves31 said:
Relay came yesterday and I installed it. Pull cigarette lighter as 12v power source, wired to the relay switch, and connected rear light cable to relay as trigger.
To my surprise, the problem of video still persists! I can get rear camera video when starting the car, but loss video ~10 minutes after driving when shifting gear to reverse.
I made sure the relay wired correctly (If connected wrong, I would be either stuck in permanent rear camera video or no video after shifting to rear gear). I changed video cable as well to be sure no cable issue. Also noticed that when the problem appears, I have to wait for the head unit to shutdown completely (not to sleep mode) in order to get video back from rear camera.
Not sure if this is MCU bug. The problem started since I had the unit and MCU got updated once. I'll update one more time to see if anything changes.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What MCU manufacturer and what version? i'm on KGL crossflashed to HA
fma965 said:
What MCU manufacturer and what version? i'm on KGL crossflashed to HA
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's MTCD_KD_V2.41_1, and is already the latest version. I'll try to flash other manufacturer's MCU since most of them are compatible.
Prior to flashing, I should start by erasing current MCU settings and set to defaults. Do you know the best way to do so?
Edit:
MCU flashed to HA-2.52, but problem not changed. Seems to be a hardware issue, or compatibility issue with Prius.
I tried to wire rear camera to front video input. Image did show up, but I had to press a button each time when switching to back gear. I may have to live with the issue.
Strangely enough I have a 2010 Prius and yes I have a similar issue. Mine works almost always, but if I switch to reverse, then back to any gear, then back to reverse, more then 5-6 time during a minute, then I have the same as you. I'm pretty sure we have the same cause. If I reboot the unit everything is ok. Our situation is definitely different to the german cars as they have a detection circuit for failed bulb and that is the reason for their issues. Ours don't have that, at least ZVW30 Prius. I doubt it's the power or the camera. That is the unit itself and as you say probably poor hardware design.
Agree with you.
Additional note:
I had some issues after cross flashing MCU. Lost RDS in radio and iGo became very slow. Now I flash original KD MCU back and everything got back to normal. Cross flash MCU may not be always a good idea.
Hi you solved?
Mine do the same..its another car...more strange that mine works fine before i change battery...after that start with problems...
It switch but take 5 mins at least...
I rewire.put relay.put direct 12 and nothins..sometimes it works at second..bit after nothings....
Any help?
Thanks
Hello,
I had the same issue and check voltage. For an insane reason, the wire provided with the radar kit was totaly failing.. measured voltage was around 5 volts whereas camera required 12v ( i though to the USB volatge first, but, no!). This red&black wire, i don't known how, went to a huge resistance... may be pinch. I change for good power wire and throw away the bad one. My rear camera get back...
Bruno
yves31 said:
Thank you, fma965. That makes sense.
The car is 2013 Prius. I did not realize cars are getting much smarter since last few years. 12v can come down a lot to save energy. I'll try to rewire the power connection.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm looking for someone who knows how to rewire. You guys know a good place?
I have a MTCD GS unit for an Audi TT and I get a feint electrical noise constantly through the cars speakers. If you have music or the radio on it is not too noticable but otherwise it is really obvious. It is definitely the unit as it isn't there with the stock head unit and if you hard reset the GS unit with the reset button whilst it is running it immediately goes away until the unit has booted. It was originally supplied with a RK3188/PX3 board running Android 5.0. I have since replaced the board with a PX5 board and have upgraded it to Android 8.0 (Malaysk). I isn't a software issue and is down to the hardware (I think...).
I have tried disabling WiFi and BlueTooth - although I don't think BlueTooth can be disabled as its not a native Android component of the system - and the noise remains. It is a feint pop and hiss noise that I think is an earth/grounding issue. I was going to replace the cable that goes to the WiFi antenna on the rear socket as this looks flimsy, however I am not sure it will make a difference.
Any ideas?
Andy
dirty power maybe? did you connect a chassis ground for the 0v on the unit.. my harness came with a ground with ring terminal..
Sent from my PH-1 using Tapatalk
I have exactly same problem. But when the colors on LCD screen black : electrical noise increases. Any other color : electrical noise decreases. I will check groundings of unit in this weekend. I ll write here if i find out anything.
stinger4321 said:
dirty power maybe? did you connect a chassis ground for the 0v on the unit.. my harness came with a ground with ring terminal..
Sent from my PH-1 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It shouldn't be dirty power as it connects into the factory loom. I'll take it out at weekend and see if grounding the chassis of the head unit to the car does anything.
Andy
I had this problem on my ksp. Ultimately I found opamps under the sound processor with dirty ground on the feedback resistors. I substituted resistors to the processor board ground header lead. Now all I hear is my fan.
I took the head unit out last weekend and tried earthing the chassis to the car and it made no difference - you can still hear the feint pops and hiss (all I can think to describe it is radio interference?). I also noticed that it gets worse when the cars lights are on and the head unit backlights come on (via CANBUS telling it I assume?).
It is a MTCD GS unit and has an external 'dongle' that is covered with heatshrink that is inline with the audio outputs. This has something to do with the level of the audio out - however I am just guessing here TBH.
Any other ideas how to eliminate this noise?
Cheers
Andy
ADB100 said:
I took the head unit out last weekend and tried earthing the chassis to the car and it made no difference - you can still hear the feint pops and hiss (all I can think to describe it is radio interference?). I also noticed that it gets worse when the cars lights are on and the head unit backlights come on (via CANBUS telling it I assume?).
It is a MTCD GS unit and has an external 'dongle' that is covered with heatshrink that is inline with the audio outputs. This has something to do with the level of the audio out - however I am just guessing here TBH.
Any other ideas how to eliminate this noise?
Cheers
Andy
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Try grounding the PX5 board heatsink with the unit chassis.
iRcKenny said:
Try grounding the PX5 board heatsink with the unit chassis.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I had the same noise issue when the PX3 board was installed and this has a much smaller heatsink than the PX5?
I'll give it a shot but its a bit more involved than just taking the unit out of the car though...
Andy
ADB100 said:
I had the same noise issue when the PX3 board was installed and this has a much smaller heatsink than the PX5?
I'll give it a shot but its a bit more involved than just taking the unit out of the car though...
Andy
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So, you also have that noise before upgrading the core board, have you any chance to temporaly install another common radio like low budget Pionner, Alpine or similar? If yes check if the noise persist; some TT owners with noise from speakers said that the cause is the factory amplifier.
Have luck!
i have heard that the problem may be from the antenna, try getting a noise filter for the antenna
Record the noise with a video. Some quiet electrical noise is common, but we're talking almost silent and only when no music is playing at all.
ADB100 said:
I took the head unit out last weekend and tried earthing the chassis to the car and it made no difference - you can still hear the feint pops and hiss (all I can think to describe it is radio interference?). I also noticed that it gets worse when the cars lights are on and the head unit backlights come on (via CANBUS telling it I assume?).
It is a MTCD GS unit and has an external 'dongle' that is covered with heatshrink that is inline with the audio outputs. This has something to do with the level of the audio out - however I am just guessing here TBH.
Any other ideas how to eliminate this noise?
Cheers
Andy
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have the same thing on my A3 and although it doesn’t really bother me I’d be interested to see if someone finds a fix. On the A3’s it only affects the ones with Bose.
All my cabling is exactly the same as yours aswell.
I once emailed a company that sells the factory Bose amps for the audis and reconditions them and the bloke said that the signal sent to the Bose amp from the aftermarket headunit is different to the signal that is sent from the factory unit so I’d guess it’s something to do with that.
In regards to the dongle thing in heatshrink, that is a little board with a plug on it that the audio cables plug into. My speakers stopped working so I cut that open once and the connector had become unplugged inside. I think it’s there because the blue amp cable is connected through it aswell which is supposed to be for the amp to turn it on and that blue cable never used to be there on the older model units.
I have the same issue on my brand new dasaita 10.2 inch px5 android 8. Connected through RCA to my amp.
I will do some troubleshooting and see if I can figure it out.
BTW, there is a very loud static noise when my bluetooth is connected to my phone, I emailed dasaita about that particular issue.
checksum123 said:
I have the same issue on my brand new dasaita 10.2 inch px5 android 8. Connected through RCA to my amp.
I will do some troubleshooting and see if I can figure it out.
BTW, there is a very loud static noise when my bluetooth is connected to my phone, I emailed dasaita about that particular issue.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have the same unit with the same issues. Hot Audio sent me a replacement bluetooth module to solder in. That fixed the bluetooth noise. I still have slight background hiss all the time.
could you guys please take a look at my issue which includes electrical noise - even when radio is off.
e.g.
- downloading maps on Sygic, there is a clicking that goes with the increase in % of the download.
- browsing the menu and / or selecting apps has a varying noise
Interestingly, the rear-camera power seems unstable as does the GPS.
I also noted, that i couldn't power the unit on the bench via the vw quadlock connector, i had to use the white connector.
Makes me wonder if there is some general grounding problem that is the problem.
https://forum.xda-developers.com/an...droid-8-px5-mtcelmv2-881-vw-multiple-t3884665
I have an equal problem with my eonon px3 7.1, which is then klyde. Light rustling always constant, then when I register with the front usb camera the noise is much higher and seems a squeak of mouse .. I changed mb sent by them but the problem remains, even connecting the ground to the chassis of the car. Quache solution please guys, I'm going crazy.
gwaitsi said:
could you guys please take a look at my issue which includes electrical noise - even when radio is off.
e.g.
- downloading maps on Sygic, there is a clicking that goes with the increase in % of the download.
- browsing the menu and / or selecting apps has a varying noise
Interestingly, the rear-camera power seems unstable as does the GPS.
I also noted, that i couldn't power the unit on the bench via the vw quadlock connector, i had to use the white connector.
Makes me wonder if there is some general grounding problem that is the problem.
https://forum.xda-developers.com/an...droid-8-px5-mtcelmv2-881-vw-multiple-t3884665
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
ADB100 said:
I have a MTCD GS unit for an Audi TT and I get a feint electrical noise constantly through the cars speakers. If you have music or the radio on it is not too noticable but otherwise it is really obvious. It is definitely the unit as it isn't there with the stock head unit and if you hard reset the GS unit with the reset button whilst it is running it immediately goes away until the unit has booted. It was originally supplied with a RK3188/PX3 board running Android 5.0. I have since replaced the board with a PX5 board and have upgraded it to Android 8.0 (Malaysk). I isn't a software issue and is down to the hardware (I think...).
I have tried disabling WiFi and BlueTooth - although I don't think BlueTooth can be disabled as its not a native Android component of the system - and the noise remains. It is a feint pop and hiss noise that I think is an earth/grounding issue. I was going to replace the cable that goes to the WiFi antenna on the rear socket as this looks flimsy, however I am not sure it will make a difference.
Any ideas?
Andy
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have the same isue, almost gone when changed the poor quality antenna from the WIFI (used a 9DB antenna)
Pick one from amazon,
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GDCLVPJ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
You can try to purchase a extension canble an antenna and put away from the unit and the engine.
In my case the pops and hiss almos gone and are barely noticiable.
The qualty of the original antenna is horrible.
jerrymh said:
I have the same isue, almost gone when changed the poor quality antenna from the WIFI (used a 9DB antenna)
Pick one from amazon,
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GDCLVPJ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
You can try to purchase a extension canble an antenna and put away from the unit and the engine.
In my case the pops and hiss almos gone and are barely noticiable.
The qualty of the original antenna is horrible.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
by that token, simply turning off the wifi would prove it no?
gwaitsi said:
by that token, simply turning off the wifi would prove it no?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You would think so wouldn't you?
I have a couple of spare SMA WiFi antennas that I can try. If I get some time later today I'll try and get the head unit out of the dash and try them. I'll post whether it makes any difference (the spare antenna I have might also be crap though...).
Andy
What I found helped is that I put some ferrite beads on the power cables to the headunit and the speaker cables from the unit. It hasn’t totally removed the issue but it is certainly better and I haven’t lost any sound quality(if anything it’s slightly better as there’s less interference).
I was not sure where to post this because I kindof hijacked the Honda Connect Android thread with alternative solutions so I decided to create a new thread here as it seems more apropriate. I hope this will help others decide on an aftermarket unit that suit their needs.
The unit I bought and pictures with comments.
01.11.2018
I forgot to mention, there are no issues with porlarized sunglasses (vision impaired like I have, or regular). Usually LCD screens are polarized so if you have polarized glasses you only see the full display colors and brightness at a fixed angle 0 or 90 degrees (head straight or tilted to one side). This unit does not suffer from this issue like older phones did. (after posting I noticed I did mention this in my previous note )
28.10.2018
I'm really happy with the unit:
- response time is as fast as you expect it to be (as in touch - do stuff vs. click - you got it, hold on it's comming, almost there, just keep spinning windows/macos stuff)
- display is bright/direct sunlight, polarized sunglasses not an issue
- you can disable most of the inputs that source (steerwheel button) cycles through, except of A/V in (which I think is the LaneWatch camera)
- switching between radio, music, Waze and other apps is instant
- Waze only crashed once during a 450km ride, in the same area it crashes on my phone as well ... really Google ?
In the end I guess it's all about personal prefference about the preinstalled software which you can replace with apps from play store (or other sources) to your liking, so I'm not gonna comment on that as most of the defaults are fine for me it's fine. There are however a vew caveats to consider:
- Since I don't use my google account and created a new one for the unit I don't have access to my contacts. Altho the unit syncs your contacts via bluetooth to the phone app, 'OK Google' cannot use that.
- The default phone app does not have any favourites options, so your best bet is to use the last recent calls. But that list is not synced with your phone, it's only the list from when your phone was connected with the car (tried MTCDTelephonyBridge, did not work).
- There are some volume issues which I could not figure out (yet ). Navigation volume is set on MIXIN and has a range from -10 to + 10. At first I had it on -5, it was very low, then I moved to +7, fine for a while until it became too loud, lowerd to +5 and it was very low, bumped it again to +7 and it was the same low. I wish they would do the 'smart' thing like the original HU and just output navigation to front left speaker (that's the only clever thing I noticed in the decade old default Honda unit)
- Only one screw can be used to fix the unit, the original ones don't fit as they have huge integrated washers. You don't really need to fix it as it won't go anywhere but still, worth mentioning. Also I wanted to insulate all the cables with the same kind of foam that you find around air conditioning pipes, so that the cables don't touch the back plate of the unit. After taking the dashboard off again, I realized there is a ton of space there so the cables will not touch the back of the unit holding the radiator, which anyway is just for the TDA amp, so there was no reason to. If you go for a 2din unit, extra space will be smaller but still plenty of room on the bottom part.
24.10.2018
A few notes of my initial experience after installing the new unit:
1. First and most important for me, the 2 USB ports of the car have different connectors (mindblown). They look the same, but one of them has a different gap (or slit, not sure of the exact word) in one of the corners as you can see in this picture. The adapter provided only fits the gray connector. I'm not sure if the 2nd adapter that I ordered will fit the green one or not (maybe with some tunning it will fit). Now, it's not that important for everyone as you can still very easy pull the 2 other USB ports in the glove compartment (which I did), but now I have 2 unused slots: USB and HDMI.
2. For OCD types, the unit I got has a 9" screen (instead of 8" as described) so the frame that holds the part of the dashboard that you need to remove in order to install the HU stands on top of the screen covering the right part of the screen bezel and the 2nd mic instead of being around the screen (I hope that makes sense). The front pannel itself (bezels included) is a bit larger than the hole in the dashboard. This results in the actual screen being buried about 1cm below the dashboard line (about 5mm more than the original one). This interfeers a bit with the access to the 'hardware' buttons on the left side, but as a driver you don't need them as you can do all that from the steering wheel controlls. One side benefit could be that there is less sunlight hitting the screen. I will update with daytime pictures.
3. There are only 2 screws that can fix the new unit, but the original ones don't fit because of the embeded washers (which can not be removed from the screws ... why ????). The unit will not go anyware thanks to the fitting holes and the dashboard being linked with frame I mentioned before. I will still go look for some replacement screws, just in case.
4. Time for the good part. The difference between the original unit and this one ... day and night. Everithing is so fast and works as it's supposed to. Even the cold boot seems faster (20s or so) than the hot start of the original unit. I still have to test the ergonomics while driving and the long term stability of the whole system, but the first impressions are very positive. You would still have to configure a few things here and there to match you preferences or missing features (like proportion between navigation and music and sound level for different sources - like music and bluetooth, missing lane watch camera - which defaults to on and when you signal right unit will show a warning because of missing camera signal, direction lines when using the reverse camera - which are off by default etc.). There are a ton of options to configure. Plus you get some extra stuff like status of open doors, status of parking sensors, AC feedback (it also has an app for control but does not seem to do anything, I will dig deeper at some point but I don't find it that usefull, still cool tho), automatic door locking when you pass a set speed limit (I have not tested this yet), and probably some others which I am eager to discover.
I will update this post to share my experience with the new unit.
kind3r said:
I was not sure where to post this because I kindof hijacked the Honda Connect Android thread with alternative solutions so I decided to create a new thread here as it seems more apropriate. I hope this will help others decide on an aftermarket unit that suit their needs.
The unit I bought and pictures with comments.
24.10.2018
A few notes of my initial experience after installing the new unit:
1. First and most important for me, the 2 USB ports of the car have different connectors (mindblown). They look the same, but one of them has a different gap (or slit, not sure of the exact word) in one of the corners as you can see in this picture. The adapter provided only fits the gray connector. I'm not sure if the 2nd adapter that I ordered will fit the green one or not (maybe with some tunning it will fit). Now, it's not that important for everyone as you can still very easy pull the 2 other USB ports in the glove compartment (which I did), but now I have 2 unused slots: USB and HDMI.
2. For OCD types, the unit I got has a 9" screen (instead of 8" as described) so the frame that holds the part of the dashboard that you need to remove in order to install the HU stands on top of the screen covering the right part of the screen bezel and the 2nd mic instead of being around the screen (I hope that makes sense). The front pannel itself (bezels included) is a bit larger than the hole in the dashboard. This results in the actual screen being buried about 1cm below the dashboard line (about 5mm more than the original one). This interfeers a bit with the access to the 'hardware' buttons on the left side, but as a driver you don't need them as you can do all that from the steering wheel controlls. One side benefit could be that there is less sunlight hitting the screen. I will update with daytime pictures.
3. There are only 2 screws that can fix the new unit, but the original ones don't fit because of the embeded washers (which can not be removed from the screws ... why ????). The unit will not go anyware thanks to the fitting holes and the dashboard being linked with frame I mentioned before. I will still go look for some replacement screws, just in case.
4. Time for the good part. The difference between the original unit and this one ... day and night. Everithing is so fast and works as it's supposed to. Even the cold boot seems faster (20s or so) than the hot start of the original unit. I still have to test the ergonomics while driving and the long term stability of the whole system, but the first impressions are very positive. You would still have to configure a few things here and there to match you preferences or missing features (like proportion between navigation and music and sound level for different sources - like music and bluetooth, missing lane watch camera - which defaults to on and when you signal right unit will show a warning because of missing camera signal, direction lines when using the reverse camera - which are off by default etc.). There are a ton of options to configure. Plus you get some extra stuff like status of open doors, status of parking sensors, AC feedback (it also has an app for control but does not seem to do anything, I will dig deeper at some point but I don't find it that usefull, still cool tho), automatic door locking when you pass a set speed limit (I have not tested this yet), and probably some others which I am eager to discover.
I will update this post to share my experience with the new unit.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Are you sure you asked for the correct unit or dasaita sent to you the correct unit?
Enviado desde mi SM-G950F mediante Tapatalk
ikerg said:
Are you sure you asked for the correct unit or dasaita sent to you the correct unit?
Enviado desde mi SM-G950F mediante Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Could you be more specific ? There is a link to the unit I bought and pictures in the first post. I asked the seller about compatibility and other stuff before purchasing and he assured me that all is ok. I'm not saing I'm not happy with the unit, the small differences don't bother me, but others might be bugged by those details. Overall I'm just sharing my experience while highlighting differences between expectations (aka product description) and reality
@ kind3r: bought one for my CRV also.. got the same issue with those 3 connections I think its the 2 usb & 1 hdmi connection in the console box of our car. I'm currently looking for a solution for the AC control, and IMID display setting for the steering wheel. I haven't really tinkered with the setting so maybe its just setting or connection issue. Could you pls. update me if you discover the AC thing or other features that you have unlock with your unit.
Is the wheel button works good??
hafidelbazdari said:
Is the weel button works good??
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What's a weel button?
Gesendet von meinem Redmi Note 5 mit Tapatalk
Wifi and Bluetooth..how to they going for you..
Internal speaker for hands free or using external?
What phone are you connecting to it..apple or Android?
kind3r said:
....the 2 USB ports of the car have different connectors...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Maybe that's because one is for charging? So they separated them via different connectors.
kind3r said:
2. For OCD types, the unit I got has a 9" screen (instead of 8" as described)...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
At the Dasaita Official Store they sell it as a 9" unit.
At the MTKNAVI Store they sell the "same" units.
Main advantage of MTKNAVI store: they ship from EU/Germany. Means no trouble about custom and taxes.
Thanks a lot for creating this thread. I am looking forward to hearing and seeing more from your Dasaita/HR-V experience.
HNDXCRV said:
@ kind3r: bought one for my CRV also.. got the same issue with those 3 connections I think its the 2 usb & 1 hdmi connection in the console box of our car. I'm currently looking for a solution for the AC control, and IMID display setting for the steering wheel. I haven't really tinkered with the setting so maybe its just setting or connection issue. Could you pls. update me if you discover the AC thing or other features that you have unlock with your unit.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think it's just so that they only fit one way so service people don't reverse them. Both did the same charging and connection, mirrorlink etc. so I can't really tell if there is actually a difference between them.
The only way I see a connection with the IMID display (mine is next to the speedometer) is via the canbus. I think that traffic is encrypted tho because I saw no mention about it anywhere so far. I'm not even sure if you can set the clock. I will do some more research on the subject.
My unit has an AC app, but it does not control anything. I will dig into that as well, tho I don't find it useful.
hafidelbazdari said:
Is the wheel button works good??
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, all wheel buttons work but some with different functions. Hangup button also works as back, source switches between a lot of (some useless for me) apps like the ones for AV inputs but the navigation app is not included (I wish you could set a list of apps to cycle through), the task switcher that used to switch between nav, audio and phone now is the home button, the shortcut button acts as the old android menu button and the voice command does mute. There is no long press 2nd function except for left and right in radio app. I guess installing MTCDTools could improve the situation but I'm ok with the standard config.
dgcruzing said:
Wifi and Bluetooth..how to they going for you..
Internal speaker for hands free or using external?
What phone are you connecting to it..apple or Android?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I use a phone that sits in the truck for internet via WiFi, no issues so far. For bluetooth/handsfree I use an iPhone, sound quaility is very good both ways, way better than the stock one. Time will tell.
I'm not sure what you mean by internal speaker. It uses the car sound system and speakers and I also connected the external mic that came with the unit and placed it close to the ignition button.
Manfred.62 said:
Maybe that's because one is for charging? So they separated them via different connectors.
At the Dasaita Official Store they sell it as a 9" unit.
At the MTKNAVI Store they sell the "same" units.
Main advantage of MTKNAVI store: they ship from EU/Germany. Means no trouble about custom and taxes.
Thanks a lot for creating this thread. I am looking forward to hearing and seeing more from your Dasaita/HR-V experience.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah, the taxes thing was a big advantage for me as they usually ship with DHL so you have to pay custom tax and also DHL tax for handling custom tax for you. My unit was shipped from UK, still EU for the next 6 month or so . Also I initially wrote to Dasaita Official Store and I still have not got a reply. MTKNAVI replied within a few hours.
kind3r said:
I think it's just so that they only fit one way so service people don't reverse them. Both did the same charging and connection, mirrorlink etc. so I can't really tell if there is actually a difference between them.
The only way I see a connection with the IMID display (mine is next to the speedometer) is via the canbus. I think that traffic is encrypted tho because I saw no mention about it anywhere so far. I'm not even sure if you can set the clock. I will do some more research on the subject.
My unit has an AC app, but it does not control anything. I will dig into that as well, tho I don't find it useful.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
wanted to change the date & time in my IMID display thats why im looking for workaround.. AC app? what's the name of the app? is it built in? i want to see the climate settings for novelty
kind3r said:
I think it's just so that they only fit one way so service people don't reverse them. Both did the same charging and connection, mirrorlink etc. so I can't really tell if there is actually a difference between them.
The only way I see a connection with the IMID display (mine is next to the speedometer) is via the canbus. I think that traffic is encrypted tho because I saw no mention about it anywhere so far. I'm not even sure if you can set the clock. I will do some more research on the subject.
My unit has an AC app, but it does not control anything. I will dig into that as well, tho I don't find it useful.
Yes, all wheel buttons work but some with different functions. Hangup button also works as back, source switches between a lot of (some useless for me) apps like the ones for AV inputs but the navigation app is not included (I wish you could set a list of apps to cycle through), the task switcher that used to switch between nav, audio and phone now is the home button, the shortcut button acts as the old android menu button and the voice command does mute. There is no long press 2nd function except for left and right in radio app. I guess installing MTCDTools could improve the situation but I'm ok with the standard config.
I use a phone that sits in the truck for internet via WiFi, no issues so far. For bluetooth/handsfree I use an iPhone, sound quaility is very good both ways, way better than the stock one. Time will tell.
I'm not sure what you mean by internal speaker. It uses the car sound system and speakers and I also connected the external mic that came with the unit and placed it close to the ignition button.
Yeah, the taxes thing was a big advantage for me as they usually ship with DHL so you have to pay custom tax and also DHL tax for handling custom tax for you. My unit was shipped from UK, still EU for the next 6 month or so . Also I initially wrote to Dasaita Official Store and I still have not got a reply. MTKNAVI replied within a few hours.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hello, For the bluetooth connection, did you use the built-in microphone of the car? if so, Did you add an adapter to operate the integrated microphone of the car?
hafidelbazdari said:
Hello, For the bluetooth connection, did you use the built-in microphone of the car? if so, Did you add an adapter to operate the integrated microphone of the car?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No, I used the external mic provided with the new unit.
kind3r said:
No, I used the external mic provided with the new unit.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Can you send me please a picture of this mic?
hafidelbazdari said:
Can you send me please a picture of this mic?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You can see it in this picture on the left side (near the speedometer): https://photos.google.com/share/AF1...?key=cy04WUVYY3RrYTBYSXM0Q1RjSFEzd2RNM1h1ZEd3
Also you can see it in the description of the Dasaita unit at Aliexpress.
Manfred.62 said:
You can see it in this picture on the left side (near the speedometer): https://photos.google.com/share/AF1...?key=cy04WUVYY3RrYTBYSXM0Q1RjSFEzd2RNM1h1ZEd3
Also you can see it in the description of the Dasaita unit at Aliexpress.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ok thank you, if we have any idea to hide it .it will be better . What the you think?
hafidelbazdari said:
Ok thank you, if we have any idea to hide it .it will be better . What the you think?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Using adapter cables. So one can use the inbuilt microphone and GPS module. We just have to find the correct cables via ebay, Aliexpress...
@kind3r
did you found a connector at the Dasaita harness with 12pin (instead of 14pin at EU version of Connect unit)? That must be connector D in the attached file. Found this info in a german HRV forum. He didn't use this connector (no problems so far).
hafidelbazdari said:
Can you send me please a picture of this mic?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sligthly better bicture of the mic in the final position.
Manfred.62 said:
Using adapter cables. So one can use the inbuilt microphone and GPS module. We just have to find the correct cables via ebay, Aliexpress...
@kind3r
did you found a connector at the Dasaita harness with 12pin (instead of 14pin at EU version of Connect unit)? That must be connector D in the attached file. Found this info in a german HRV forum. He didn't use this connector (no problems so far).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Wow, nice find. I was actually looking for that before buying a unit but could not find any schematics.
The back pannel arrangement of the connectors is not similar to my original unit see a picture of the back of mine here, but connectors seem to be more or less the same. Now, not all the connectors on the car have a corespondend on the harness and viceversa. The connector you are reffering to must be the Sirius XM receiver (? satelite radio) which as far as I know is not available in EU. Also, the USB connectors look the same in your document but in my case they are a bit different by just a small notch. What is the functionality you are interested in so I can tell you if it works for me or not.
On a side note, I have tested the unit during the last few days using the auto sleep feature, witch does not do a shutdown + cold boot so the unit starts in 1-2 seconds after you start the car. There is still a small delay after that when you get notifications about the SD card and USB stick that are being mounted so that's another 2-3 seconds until playback resumes, so it's still faster than the cold boot which takes around 25 seconds. But as android tends to be like windows on the long term, I will stick with the cold boot 'mode'.
As @HNDXCRV and others mentioned, I could not find a way to set the clock on the factory display. But as DST changed in my country, with a big bang I might add (earthquake during the night, could not sleep after that :/) to my surprise the car's clock changed as well. So I guess there is some communication from the HU, at least for time. My guess is playing in Factory Settings could result in AC being controlled from the unit as well. But I don't really see the point in doing that since dedicated hardware buttons are better than touching a display.
Some were concerned about the performance of the display in direct sunlight. Today was a sunny day, I took a trip to the seaside and I can tell you I had no issues looking at the display with my polarised sunglases on. Also the angle of the polarisation did not seem to matter as tilting my head did not do anything to the brightness level or colors, so kudos for that, it's a really nice display. At some point I was looking through the settings and realized it was only at 75% brightness.
Overall I really love this unit. Of course it's not perfect and there is some room for improvement here and there, but there are no words to describe the difference of (first and foremost for me) performance, sound quality, level of customization, size and quality of the display. Most of the small things that bother me are due to software ergonomics say like the radio app having a dedicated button for stereo lock, instead of something more useful (not that anything comes to mind right now). You have to customize a bit to your liking, I have uninstalled/disabled apps that cycle via the source button on the steering wheel, changed the volumes of navigation, radio, music, a2dp etc. to my personal preference. Also there are a ton of replacement apps for the stock ones, play store is full of choices if you have enough time to try them out, like launchers, dialers, music apps etc.
I still have to update to the latest Android version (unit came with 20180809, latest is 20181011, but with newer MCU 2.98_1) but since there is no reason to, I will hold off for the moment. I am tempted to do a full reset of the unit as there are some leftovers from the seller testing the unit like paierd phones etc. (not that it matters too much).
@kind3r
thanks a lot for your infos. Seems like this device is really worth it. I can not decide yet.
What I like to do if...
connect the original GPS (via adapter, found in ebay)
connect the original microphone (via adapter, not found yet)
Questions:
the radio has RDS fully working (channel names, radio text, traffic TP/TA) ?
is the Dasaita usable without internet connection (only radio or mp3) or does it throw error messages?
does "Ok Google" work? Or do we need the MtcDialer
Because of updates: maybe it's best to do it at the beginning.
For the GPS adaptor it will still take around 2 weeks to get to me so I can post some feedback about it.
I could not find any reference in the connectors for the integrated mic. I'm not sure if an adapter exists. At first I thought this will bother me but it tursn out it's not really that big of a deal. Sound quality is way better than with the original mic/HU combination.
RDS is working but unfortunatelly I cannot test traffic as it is not available in my country. The radio app has switches to enable disable TA and TP but since there is no broadcast for that ... they don't do anything for me.
It should not throw errors without an internet connection but for me the whole point was to use it with Waze for the realtime traffic information. There is a version of iGO preinstalled with Europe maps on an 8G SD card. I will probably buy a bigger card that can fit the iGO maps and music so I have an offline navigation as a backup just in case.
'OK Google' is working but unfortunatelly I think it uses the contacts from the google account and does not use the contacts synced via bluetooth from the paired phone. Since I created a new account for the car I don't have any contacts but I will add some just to test. MTCDialer did not work for me, it always crashes on launch.
I installed this unit in wife's 2018 Highlander today. It sounds great if wifi is switched off, or if it's on and no data is flowing. I am using Network Mini to monitor data, and as soon as data is going up/down, the crackling starts.
I've reached out to Dasaita and am awaiting a reply
I have grounded the black wire with the ringlet directly to the frame but it makes no difference. I have NOT grounded the radio chassis yet. Also the noise goes away when the unit isn't crammed into the dash. When all the wires are in close proximity to radio is when it picks up
Anyone seen this issue. Love the radio otherwise...
Video:.
https://youtu.be/NhSzLh7CD_0
Wow - that's REALLY bad... I'm starting to get a little fed up with the interference noises from my Eonon MTCE-WWW unit as well. I don't have any issues when using the internal amp, but if I connect to an external amp with the line-out RCAs, I get interference from USB devices, the LED backlighting on the unit, etc. It's shame becuase I love the idea of an Android unit, but not sure I can deal with the subpar quality issues....
Going to try connecting to my amp via speaker-level outputs next and see if that helps at all.
Do you have a stock or aftermarket amp in your vehicle?
Cracks and noises for me as well with my Belsee BP3 PX5 unit.
For me too the noises seem to fade away when I turn off WiFi.
I upgraded the firmware of the unit with a Cs-x sound mod one (there's an recente one for Dasaita too) and it seem to have reduced the issue
https://forum.xda-developers.com/an...ent/mod-cs-x-mod-mtcd-e-mcu-firmware-t3816042
Maybe you can check this out ?
TheDiB said:
Cracks and noises for me as well with my Belsee BP3 PX5 unit.
For me too the noises seem to fade away when I turn off WiFi.
I upgraded the firmware of the unit with a Cs-x sound mod one (there's an recente one for Dasaita too) and it seem to have reduced the issue
https://forum.xda-developers.com/an...ent/mod-cs-x-mod-mtcd-e-mcu-firmware-t3816042
Maybe you can check this out ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I suppose I could try updates, but I don't hold out much hope given that the problem seems to be related to proximity to the wifi antenna. It did this on the stock rom, as well as the Hal9k variant.
I'll update this thread if I manage to find an improvement.
The alternate sound-patched MCU's didn't make any difference whatsoever on my Eonon MTCE-WWW unit. I tried both the cs-x version and the wazdio verion. Same noise-related issues. You may help "hide" them a little by turning down the pre-amp value, but you can also do that with the stock MCUs, under the Factory Settings "Voice" tab.
To put it simply, I think they just use low-quality components with limited R&D - which is why these units are so inexpensive compared to more premium brands of plug-and-play units like Rosen, Dynavin, etc (they run WinCE though).
If using speaker-level outputs on the Eonon doesn't help in my case, I'll probably be going back to a WInCE unit, just becuase they seem to have much higher-quality audio components (better DAC's, 4V pre-outs, BBE processor, real 9-band EQ, time-delay, etc). I was really looking forward to an Android head-unit, but I'm just not willing to sacrifice sound quality to get the Android interface. Viper4Android helps a LOT in terms of sound-quality, but it can't help with the noise-related issues, which are more of a hardware thing...
Maybe some day they'll get there. I really wish they made low- and high-end versions of these radios - that way people had a choice between low-cost and high-quality.
That's a shame, as there is so much potential. I have a Hizpo PK5 in my (JBL-equipped) Sequoia, and it's completely noise-free. But this Dasaita for the Highlander is just very loud. It seems like it's a shielding issue. As stated previously, if I keep the head unit out with all the cables extended, the sound stops. I'm halfway tempted to buy an SMA wifi antenna with a cable long enough to get the RF signal away from the wires. The sound is exclusive to the left channel (both front and rear).
@TheDiB, missed your prior question. It's a JBL-equipped vehicle.
Yeah, your particular noise is REALLY bad (mine is more of something that you only hear if the music is muted or during really quiet parts of the music - and only in certain cases (but it still bothers me knowing that it's there).
Being that you can stop the noise by pulling the radio out, you may be able to figure out what is causing it. Maybe try disconnecting the AM/FM antenna to see if that has anytihng to do with it - I've read some cases where hte antenna was causing interference. Or just re-routing some of the wiring - or something along those lines.
In my case, the noises are present no matter what - but only if I use the RCA line-level outputs and an extrnal amp. If I use the stock built-in amp, there is no noise whatsoever. So mine seems to be related to the RCA line-level output hardware (shielding related, I'm guessing).
I would experiment some more if you are happy with the radio and sound-quality otherwise.
I'm hoping I hear something helpful back from Dasaita in the coming days. On this particular unit, the wifi antenna comes out about 1/2" above the main ISO plug for the radio. I suppose I could relocate the antenna by running the existing bulkhead SMA fitting through a screw hole elsewhere on the case to provide more distance. I'm not giving up yet The other issue is that it's the wife's car, so my access to it is limited.
I'm not using line-level outputs. The four pairs for the speaker output comes out of that ISO plug, and goes straight to the Toyota harness. Fader control (as well as a bunch of other controls/data) goes through the can bus adapter. But ultimately, those four speaker pair end up at the factory JBL amplifier.
Aside from the noise, the audio quality is equivalent to the stock radio. But, I'm not an audiophile, and I have the opposite of OCD...
So your stock JBL amp actually accepts speaker-level inputs? Usually, amps take line-level inputs. With the Eonon MTCE-WWW units for GM's, if your car has a stock Bose amp, there is a special "Bose adpater" that connects to the same port where you would connect the line-level RCA jacks for aftermarket amps, which is line-level - but instead of having RCA jacks at the other end, it just connects into the main wiring harness, so I guess it sends line-level signals through the speaker wires, to the Bose amp - and then the Bose amp amplifies them (that is just a guess though, based on the fact that the audio is coming from the same port that is used for an external aftermarket amp, which is line-level).
So the wiring harness you use for yours is exactly the same regardless of whether the car has a stock amplifier or not? Or maybe it's not an option on your car and they ALL come with JBL amps? Just trying to understand your setup a little better. Do you have a link to the unit you purcahsed?
jtrosky said:
So your stock JBL amp actually accepts speaker-level inputs? Usually, amps take line-level inputs. With the Eonon MTCE-WWW units for GM's, if your car has a stock Bose amp, there is a special "Bose adpater" that connects to the same port where you would connect the line-level RCA jacks for aftermarket amps, which is line-level - but instead of having RCA jacks at the other end, it just connects into the main wiring harness, so I guess it sends line-level signals through the speaker wires, to the Bose amp - and then the Bose amp amplifies them (that is just a guess though, based on the fact that the audio is coming from the same port that is used for an external aftermarket amp, which is line-level).
So the wiring harness you use for yours is exactly the same regardless of whether the car has a stock amplifier or not? Or maybe it's not an option on your car and they ALL come with JBL amps? Just trying to understand your setup a little better. Do you have a link to the unit you purcahsed?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It must, because I'm not using any coax/low-level outputs. In fact, I haven't hooked up most of the pigtail connectors. The ISO harness has about 5 or 6 connectors that are used, and about as many that aren't (presumably for the non-JBL vehicles). I think the Toyota JBL set up is much like the Bose you described. In a previous Tundra, I had to buy an adapter that would convert the two-pair per speaker wires to RCA plugs which I could then use to connect my aftermarket radio (to use the low level outputs). That converter (made by Metra or Scoche, IIRC) also somehow tied into the canbus to power the amp and control the fader.
Ultimately with this PX5, I'm using the purple/green/gray/white speaker level outputs to go directly to the factory harness. No adapter in between. I can only assume the JBL amp is designed to accept this somehow. Both my Sequoia and now this Highlander are set up the same way.
Well, I am happy to report that I was able to resolve the noise by replacing the Dasaita wifi antenna with a full-sized SMA-equipped antenna from an old Asus router. The antenna was a female SMA, so I had to slip a small copper conductor into it so it would interface with the female SMA bulkhead on the radio - but once I did that, ALL the noise disappeared! So either something is wrong with the antenna they provided, or it's simply dumping too much RF right on top of the ISO connector with all the speaker outputs. Whew!
Very cool! Glad to hear that you got it resolved. So is the antenna now further away from the ISO connector - or is it just becuase it's a different antenna? You may to get an adapter or an antenna with the right connecter for long-term use (instead of using the wrong gender anteanna with a piece of copper wire installed).
Regardless, glad to hear that you figure it out! I wish my noise-related issues were so easy to solve.
Although, I did some brief testing this morning and it seems that using the speaker-level outputs is better than using the line-level outputs on mine (for connecting external amp). The noises are still there, but they aren't as loud when using speaker-level outputs for my external amp (usually, it's the other way around with higher-quality head-units).
These units are so close to being really good - it's a shame they have these noise-relasted issues...
jtrosky said:
Very cool! Glad to hear that you got it resolved. So is the antenna now further away from the ISO connector - or is it just becuase it's a different antenna? You may to get an adapter or an antenna with the right connecter for long-term use (instead of using the wrong gender anteanna with a piece of copper wire installed).
Regardless, glad to hear that you figure it out! I wish my noise-related issues were so easy to solve.
Although, I did some brief testing this morning and it seems that using the speaker-level outputs is better than using the line-level outputs on mine (for connecting external amp). The noises are still there, but they aren't as loud when using speaker-level outputs for my external amp (usually, it's the other way around with higher-quality head-units).
These units are so close to being really good - it's a shame they have these noise-relasted issues...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I didn't move the bulkhead SMA fitting. I would have had to break the factory seal, and I didn't want to jeopardize warranty just yet. The antenna I added is about 4x longer than the stubby they provided, so I suppose it is spreading the RF over a larger area. It has a hinge on it and if I aim it straight back the noise is still present. Bending it 90° away from the harness makes it totally silent - and there is no depreciation in the signal strength.
I have ordered a gender changer and a 3" SMA extension cable from Amazon, but I probably won't install it unless the problem returns. I figure why rock the boat.
Is the noise you're experiencing related to data transmission? Does it stop if you disable the wifi? I'm wondering if wrapping the first few inches of the wiring bundle with copper tape wouldn't provide shielding against induced RF noise.
Ah - I see. Interesting - so just a different antenna resolved your issue. Like you said, I guess it's spreading out the signal enough to avoid causing the interference. I'm sure someone else will find that info very useful in the future!
My noise issues are not realted to wifi. I have interference noises in the following situations:
1. If car is not running and radio LED backlighting is on (cuases a hum through the speakers). Mainly only noticeable when no music is playing (between songs, for example) or when there are very quiet parts of the music.
2. When using my headrest monitors.
3. Anytime the system accesses USB devices. The interference is pretty noticeable when reading/writing USB thumb drives - especially if they have LEDs on them.
4. If I my Eonon USB dashcam is active, it makes a strange intference noise from the speakers. Again, really only noticeable when no music is playing, but...
None of these are huge issues in of themselves, but at the same time, it just bothers me knowing that the interference exists. I've also noticed that the overall sound quality just isn't as good as my previous WinCE-based head-units - (much more expensive units - they have 4v preouts, higher-quality DAC's, etc) - even when using an external amplifier. Never had interference noises with them, so the Android unit is really a downgrade in terms of sound-quality, which is more important to me than having Android, I guess. I was hoping that there woulnd't be much difference in sound quality when using an external amp, but there still is...
At first, I thought the Android head-unit was awesome while testng "on the bench" - until I connected it in-car and used it for a few days, then I started noticing all of the "cons" (warning chimes and turn-signal sounds are horrible, button backlighting doesn't dim with the rest of the interior lights when dimmed, screen isn't as nice or as bright as previous units, super-reflecitive screen, the noise issues mentioned above, no true dual-zone for my headrest monitors, no XM tuner, having to jump through all kind of hoops just to get music to continue playing where it left off when restarting the car, etc). When I add up all of these "cons", I'm just not sure the Android unit is worth it for me. I'll probably be going back to my WinCE head-unit very soon (Dynavin N7 or Rosen GM1010/1210). The WinCE units are not as flexible as the Android units, but the sound quality is more important to me.
I'd *gladly* pay more for a higher-quality Android head-unit, but right now, they just don't seem to exist - which is unfortunate...
jtrosky said:
Ah - I see. Interesting - so just a different antenna resolved your issue. Like you said, I guess it's spreading out the signal enough to avoid causing the interference. I'm sure someone else will find that info very useful in the future!
My noise issues are not realted to wifi. I have interference noises in the following situations:
1. If car is not running and radio LED backlighting is on (cuases a hum through the speakers). Mainly only noticeable when no music is playing (between songs, for example) or when there are very quiet parts of the music.
2. When using my headrest monitors.
3. Anytime the system accesses USB devices. The interference is pretty noticeable when reading/writing USB thumb drives - especially if they have LEDs on them.
4. If I my Eonon USB dashcam is active, it makes a strange intference noise from the speakers. Again, really only noticeable when no music is playing, but...
None of these are huge issues in of themselves, but at the same time, it just bothers me knowing that the interference exists. I've also noticed that the overall sound quality just isn't as good as my previous WinCE-based head-units - (much more expensive units - they have 4v preouts, higher-quality DAC's, etc) - even when using an external amplifier. Never had interference noises with them, so the Android unit is really a downgrade in terms of sound-quality, which is more important to me than having Android, I guess. I was hoping that there woulnd't be much difference in sound quality when using an external amp, but there still is...
At first, I thought the Android head-unit was awesome while testng "on the bench" - until I connected it in-car and used it for a few days, then I started noticing all of the "cons" (warning chimes and turn-signal sounds are horrible, button backlighting doesn't dim with the rest of the interior lights when dimmed, screen isn't as nice or as bright as previous units, super-reflecitive screen, the noise issues mentioned above, no true dual-zone for my headrest monitors, no XM tuner, having to jump through all kind of hoops just to get music to continue playing where it left off when restarting the car, etc). When I add up all of these "cons", I'm just not sure the Android unit is worth it for me. I'll probably be going back to my WinCE head-unit very soon (Dynavin N7 or Rosen GM1010/1210). The WinCE units are not as flexible as the Android units, but the sound quality is more important to me.
I'd *gladly* pay more for a higher-quality Android head-unit, but right now, they just don't seem to exist - which is unfortunate...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hello, have you found a solution, how you fix noise ?
jtrosky said:
Ah - I see. Interesting - so just a different antenna resolved your issue. Like you said, I guess it's spreading out the signal enough to avoid causing the interference. I'm sure someone else will find that info very useful in the future!
My noise issues are not realted to wifi. I have interference noises in the following situations:
1. If car is not running and radio LED backlighting is on (cuases a hum through the speakers). Mainly only noticeable when no music is playing (between songs, for example) or when there are very quiet parts of the music.
2. When using my headrest monitors.
3. Anytime the system accesses USB devices. The interference is pretty noticeable when reading/writing USB thumb drives - especially if they have LEDs on them.
4. If I my Eonon USB dashcam is active, it makes a strange intference noise from the speakers. Again, really only noticeable when no music is playing, but...
None of these are huge issues in of themselves, but at the same time, it just bothers me knowing that the interference exists. I've also noticed that the overall sound quality just isn't as good as my previous WinCE-based head-units - (much more expensive units - they have 4v preouts, higher-quality DAC's, etc) - even when using an external amplifier. Never had interference noises with them, so the Android unit is really a downgrade in terms of sound-quality, which is more important to me than having Android, I guess. I was hoping that there woulnd't be much difference in sound quality when using an external amp, but there still is...
At first, I thought the Android head-unit was awesome while testng "on the bench" - until I connected it in-car and used it for a few days, then I started noticing all of the "cons" (warning chimes and turn-signal sounds are horrible, button backlighting doesn't dim with the rest of the interior lights when dimmed, screen isn't as nice or as bright as previous units, super-reflecitive screen, the noise issues mentioned above, no true dual-zone for my headrest monitors, no XM tuner, having to jump through all kind of hoops just to get music to continue playing where it left off when restarting the car, etc). When I add up all of these "cons", I'm just not sure the Android unit is worth it for me. I'll probably be going back to my WinCE head-unit very soon (Dynavin N7 or Rosen GM1010/1210). The WinCE units are not as flexible as the Android units, but the sound quality is more important to me.
I'd *gladly* pay more for a higher-quality Android head-unit, but right now, they just don't seem to exist - which is unfortunate...
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I also wanted to hear if you found out the problem .. since I myself have the same...
I bought this Vanku head unit on Amazon. It's a double din 7 inch screen.
It's my first Android head unit and I am very, very happy.
I've fitted it into a Honda Civic hatch Mk9 (Euro version) so I needed to buy and install a new fascia plate.
To get steering wheel control working, I had to buy some harnesses and a canbus.
I used the following:
CT27AA71Honda - DIN Antenna Adapter With Phantom Power Supply. *For Aftermarket Radio With DIN Antenna Connector*CTSMARTLEAD
This head unit connection lead can be used with all of the Connects2 steering wheel control interface rangeCTSHO006.2Honda Steering Wheel Control Interface
Steering controls work great after being programmed using the onboard button learning app.
It comes with a microphone, GPS and WiFi antennas and double USB leads. It can also be hooked up to a front and rear camera, but I haven't used these features (I already have rear camera assist on my car, and haven't purchased a DVR camera for the front yet).
The first boot up took under a minute, and the subsequent boot up when turning on the ignition is a couple of seconds.
So far everything feels lightning fast - navigation, app launch, video and music.
I am not getting a great WiFi connection, but I'll check the antenna wire is properly installed before moaning too much.
Bluetooth works great for calls and A2DP. I've also installed an OBD2 adapter and I'm using Torque Pro on the head unit with no issues.
Most apps so far seem to work great - the only app I'm having an issue with is eWeLink (which I use to control all my home automation) and I can't seem to press the log-in button as it's very low down in the screen (app doesn't seem to scale properly for a horizontal screen). I wanted this as I could then open my front gate from the head unit, but I will have to figure out a different way.
The included manual is actually pretty good - the English is by and large pretty understandable.
I will try upload some pictures a bit later - the main purpose of this post is that I wanted to help anyone else researching this particular unit as I could find very little when I was trying to make my purchase decision.