I installed this unit in wife's 2018 Highlander today. It sounds great if wifi is switched off, or if it's on and no data is flowing. I am using Network Mini to monitor data, and as soon as data is going up/down, the crackling starts.
I've reached out to Dasaita and am awaiting a reply
I have grounded the black wire with the ringlet directly to the frame but it makes no difference. I have NOT grounded the radio chassis yet. Also the noise goes away when the unit isn't crammed into the dash. When all the wires are in close proximity to radio is when it picks up
Anyone seen this issue. Love the radio otherwise...
Video:.
https://youtu.be/NhSzLh7CD_0
Wow - that's REALLY bad... I'm starting to get a little fed up with the interference noises from my Eonon MTCE-WWW unit as well. I don't have any issues when using the internal amp, but if I connect to an external amp with the line-out RCAs, I get interference from USB devices, the LED backlighting on the unit, etc. It's shame becuase I love the idea of an Android unit, but not sure I can deal with the subpar quality issues....
Going to try connecting to my amp via speaker-level outputs next and see if that helps at all.
Do you have a stock or aftermarket amp in your vehicle?
Cracks and noises for me as well with my Belsee BP3 PX5 unit.
For me too the noises seem to fade away when I turn off WiFi.
I upgraded the firmware of the unit with a Cs-x sound mod one (there's an recente one for Dasaita too) and it seem to have reduced the issue
https://forum.xda-developers.com/an...ent/mod-cs-x-mod-mtcd-e-mcu-firmware-t3816042
Maybe you can check this out ?
TheDiB said:
Cracks and noises for me as well with my Belsee BP3 PX5 unit.
For me too the noises seem to fade away when I turn off WiFi.
I upgraded the firmware of the unit with a Cs-x sound mod one (there's an recente one for Dasaita too) and it seem to have reduced the issue
https://forum.xda-developers.com/an...ent/mod-cs-x-mod-mtcd-e-mcu-firmware-t3816042
Maybe you can check this out ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I suppose I could try updates, but I don't hold out much hope given that the problem seems to be related to proximity to the wifi antenna. It did this on the stock rom, as well as the Hal9k variant.
I'll update this thread if I manage to find an improvement.
The alternate sound-patched MCU's didn't make any difference whatsoever on my Eonon MTCE-WWW unit. I tried both the cs-x version and the wazdio verion. Same noise-related issues. You may help "hide" them a little by turning down the pre-amp value, but you can also do that with the stock MCUs, under the Factory Settings "Voice" tab.
To put it simply, I think they just use low-quality components with limited R&D - which is why these units are so inexpensive compared to more premium brands of plug-and-play units like Rosen, Dynavin, etc (they run WinCE though).
If using speaker-level outputs on the Eonon doesn't help in my case, I'll probably be going back to a WInCE unit, just becuase they seem to have much higher-quality audio components (better DAC's, 4V pre-outs, BBE processor, real 9-band EQ, time-delay, etc). I was really looking forward to an Android head-unit, but I'm just not willing to sacrifice sound quality to get the Android interface. Viper4Android helps a LOT in terms of sound-quality, but it can't help with the noise-related issues, which are more of a hardware thing...
Maybe some day they'll get there. I really wish they made low- and high-end versions of these radios - that way people had a choice between low-cost and high-quality.
That's a shame, as there is so much potential. I have a Hizpo PK5 in my (JBL-equipped) Sequoia, and it's completely noise-free. But this Dasaita for the Highlander is just very loud. It seems like it's a shielding issue. As stated previously, if I keep the head unit out with all the cables extended, the sound stops. I'm halfway tempted to buy an SMA wifi antenna with a cable long enough to get the RF signal away from the wires. The sound is exclusive to the left channel (both front and rear).
@TheDiB, missed your prior question. It's a JBL-equipped vehicle.
Yeah, your particular noise is REALLY bad (mine is more of something that you only hear if the music is muted or during really quiet parts of the music - and only in certain cases (but it still bothers me knowing that it's there).
Being that you can stop the noise by pulling the radio out, you may be able to figure out what is causing it. Maybe try disconnecting the AM/FM antenna to see if that has anytihng to do with it - I've read some cases where hte antenna was causing interference. Or just re-routing some of the wiring - or something along those lines.
In my case, the noises are present no matter what - but only if I use the RCA line-level outputs and an extrnal amp. If I use the stock built-in amp, there is no noise whatsoever. So mine seems to be related to the RCA line-level output hardware (shielding related, I'm guessing).
I would experiment some more if you are happy with the radio and sound-quality otherwise.
I'm hoping I hear something helpful back from Dasaita in the coming days. On this particular unit, the wifi antenna comes out about 1/2" above the main ISO plug for the radio. I suppose I could relocate the antenna by running the existing bulkhead SMA fitting through a screw hole elsewhere on the case to provide more distance. I'm not giving up yet The other issue is that it's the wife's car, so my access to it is limited.
I'm not using line-level outputs. The four pairs for the speaker output comes out of that ISO plug, and goes straight to the Toyota harness. Fader control (as well as a bunch of other controls/data) goes through the can bus adapter. But ultimately, those four speaker pair end up at the factory JBL amplifier.
Aside from the noise, the audio quality is equivalent to the stock radio. But, I'm not an audiophile, and I have the opposite of OCD...
So your stock JBL amp actually accepts speaker-level inputs? Usually, amps take line-level inputs. With the Eonon MTCE-WWW units for GM's, if your car has a stock Bose amp, there is a special "Bose adpater" that connects to the same port where you would connect the line-level RCA jacks for aftermarket amps, which is line-level - but instead of having RCA jacks at the other end, it just connects into the main wiring harness, so I guess it sends line-level signals through the speaker wires, to the Bose amp - and then the Bose amp amplifies them (that is just a guess though, based on the fact that the audio is coming from the same port that is used for an external aftermarket amp, which is line-level).
So the wiring harness you use for yours is exactly the same regardless of whether the car has a stock amplifier or not? Or maybe it's not an option on your car and they ALL come with JBL amps? Just trying to understand your setup a little better. Do you have a link to the unit you purcahsed?
jtrosky said:
So your stock JBL amp actually accepts speaker-level inputs? Usually, amps take line-level inputs. With the Eonon MTCE-WWW units for GM's, if your car has a stock Bose amp, there is a special "Bose adpater" that connects to the same port where you would connect the line-level RCA jacks for aftermarket amps, which is line-level - but instead of having RCA jacks at the other end, it just connects into the main wiring harness, so I guess it sends line-level signals through the speaker wires, to the Bose amp - and then the Bose amp amplifies them (that is just a guess though, based on the fact that the audio is coming from the same port that is used for an external aftermarket amp, which is line-level).
So the wiring harness you use for yours is exactly the same regardless of whether the car has a stock amplifier or not? Or maybe it's not an option on your car and they ALL come with JBL amps? Just trying to understand your setup a little better. Do you have a link to the unit you purcahsed?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It must, because I'm not using any coax/low-level outputs. In fact, I haven't hooked up most of the pigtail connectors. The ISO harness has about 5 or 6 connectors that are used, and about as many that aren't (presumably for the non-JBL vehicles). I think the Toyota JBL set up is much like the Bose you described. In a previous Tundra, I had to buy an adapter that would convert the two-pair per speaker wires to RCA plugs which I could then use to connect my aftermarket radio (to use the low level outputs). That converter (made by Metra or Scoche, IIRC) also somehow tied into the canbus to power the amp and control the fader.
Ultimately with this PX5, I'm using the purple/green/gray/white speaker level outputs to go directly to the factory harness. No adapter in between. I can only assume the JBL amp is designed to accept this somehow. Both my Sequoia and now this Highlander are set up the same way.
Well, I am happy to report that I was able to resolve the noise by replacing the Dasaita wifi antenna with a full-sized SMA-equipped antenna from an old Asus router. The antenna was a female SMA, so I had to slip a small copper conductor into it so it would interface with the female SMA bulkhead on the radio - but once I did that, ALL the noise disappeared! So either something is wrong with the antenna they provided, or it's simply dumping too much RF right on top of the ISO connector with all the speaker outputs. Whew!
Very cool! Glad to hear that you got it resolved. So is the antenna now further away from the ISO connector - or is it just becuase it's a different antenna? You may to get an adapter or an antenna with the right connecter for long-term use (instead of using the wrong gender anteanna with a piece of copper wire installed).
Regardless, glad to hear that you figure it out! I wish my noise-related issues were so easy to solve.
Although, I did some brief testing this morning and it seems that using the speaker-level outputs is better than using the line-level outputs on mine (for connecting external amp). The noises are still there, but they aren't as loud when using speaker-level outputs for my external amp (usually, it's the other way around with higher-quality head-units).
These units are so close to being really good - it's a shame they have these noise-relasted issues...
jtrosky said:
Very cool! Glad to hear that you got it resolved. So is the antenna now further away from the ISO connector - or is it just becuase it's a different antenna? You may to get an adapter or an antenna with the right connecter for long-term use (instead of using the wrong gender anteanna with a piece of copper wire installed).
Regardless, glad to hear that you figure it out! I wish my noise-related issues were so easy to solve.
Although, I did some brief testing this morning and it seems that using the speaker-level outputs is better than using the line-level outputs on mine (for connecting external amp). The noises are still there, but they aren't as loud when using speaker-level outputs for my external amp (usually, it's the other way around with higher-quality head-units).
These units are so close to being really good - it's a shame they have these noise-relasted issues...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I didn't move the bulkhead SMA fitting. I would have had to break the factory seal, and I didn't want to jeopardize warranty just yet. The antenna I added is about 4x longer than the stubby they provided, so I suppose it is spreading the RF over a larger area. It has a hinge on it and if I aim it straight back the noise is still present. Bending it 90° away from the harness makes it totally silent - and there is no depreciation in the signal strength.
I have ordered a gender changer and a 3" SMA extension cable from Amazon, but I probably won't install it unless the problem returns. I figure why rock the boat.
Is the noise you're experiencing related to data transmission? Does it stop if you disable the wifi? I'm wondering if wrapping the first few inches of the wiring bundle with copper tape wouldn't provide shielding against induced RF noise.
Ah - I see. Interesting - so just a different antenna resolved your issue. Like you said, I guess it's spreading out the signal enough to avoid causing the interference. I'm sure someone else will find that info very useful in the future!
My noise issues are not realted to wifi. I have interference noises in the following situations:
1. If car is not running and radio LED backlighting is on (cuases a hum through the speakers). Mainly only noticeable when no music is playing (between songs, for example) or when there are very quiet parts of the music.
2. When using my headrest monitors.
3. Anytime the system accesses USB devices. The interference is pretty noticeable when reading/writing USB thumb drives - especially if they have LEDs on them.
4. If I my Eonon USB dashcam is active, it makes a strange intference noise from the speakers. Again, really only noticeable when no music is playing, but...
None of these are huge issues in of themselves, but at the same time, it just bothers me knowing that the interference exists. I've also noticed that the overall sound quality just isn't as good as my previous WinCE-based head-units - (much more expensive units - they have 4v preouts, higher-quality DAC's, etc) - even when using an external amplifier. Never had interference noises with them, so the Android unit is really a downgrade in terms of sound-quality, which is more important to me than having Android, I guess. I was hoping that there woulnd't be much difference in sound quality when using an external amp, but there still is...
At first, I thought the Android head-unit was awesome while testng "on the bench" - until I connected it in-car and used it for a few days, then I started noticing all of the "cons" (warning chimes and turn-signal sounds are horrible, button backlighting doesn't dim with the rest of the interior lights when dimmed, screen isn't as nice or as bright as previous units, super-reflecitive screen, the noise issues mentioned above, no true dual-zone for my headrest monitors, no XM tuner, having to jump through all kind of hoops just to get music to continue playing where it left off when restarting the car, etc). When I add up all of these "cons", I'm just not sure the Android unit is worth it for me. I'll probably be going back to my WinCE head-unit very soon (Dynavin N7 or Rosen GM1010/1210). The WinCE units are not as flexible as the Android units, but the sound quality is more important to me.
I'd *gladly* pay more for a higher-quality Android head-unit, but right now, they just don't seem to exist - which is unfortunate...
jtrosky said:
Ah - I see. Interesting - so just a different antenna resolved your issue. Like you said, I guess it's spreading out the signal enough to avoid causing the interference. I'm sure someone else will find that info very useful in the future!
My noise issues are not realted to wifi. I have interference noises in the following situations:
1. If car is not running and radio LED backlighting is on (cuases a hum through the speakers). Mainly only noticeable when no music is playing (between songs, for example) or when there are very quiet parts of the music.
2. When using my headrest monitors.
3. Anytime the system accesses USB devices. The interference is pretty noticeable when reading/writing USB thumb drives - especially if they have LEDs on them.
4. If I my Eonon USB dashcam is active, it makes a strange intference noise from the speakers. Again, really only noticeable when no music is playing, but...
None of these are huge issues in of themselves, but at the same time, it just bothers me knowing that the interference exists. I've also noticed that the overall sound quality just isn't as good as my previous WinCE-based head-units - (much more expensive units - they have 4v preouts, higher-quality DAC's, etc) - even when using an external amplifier. Never had interference noises with them, so the Android unit is really a downgrade in terms of sound-quality, which is more important to me than having Android, I guess. I was hoping that there woulnd't be much difference in sound quality when using an external amp, but there still is...
At first, I thought the Android head-unit was awesome while testng "on the bench" - until I connected it in-car and used it for a few days, then I started noticing all of the "cons" (warning chimes and turn-signal sounds are horrible, button backlighting doesn't dim with the rest of the interior lights when dimmed, screen isn't as nice or as bright as previous units, super-reflecitive screen, the noise issues mentioned above, no true dual-zone for my headrest monitors, no XM tuner, having to jump through all kind of hoops just to get music to continue playing where it left off when restarting the car, etc). When I add up all of these "cons", I'm just not sure the Android unit is worth it for me. I'll probably be going back to my WinCE head-unit very soon (Dynavin N7 or Rosen GM1010/1210). The WinCE units are not as flexible as the Android units, but the sound quality is more important to me.
I'd *gladly* pay more for a higher-quality Android head-unit, but right now, they just don't seem to exist - which is unfortunate...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hello, have you found a solution, how you fix noise ?
jtrosky said:
Ah - I see. Interesting - so just a different antenna resolved your issue. Like you said, I guess it's spreading out the signal enough to avoid causing the interference. I'm sure someone else will find that info very useful in the future!
My noise issues are not realted to wifi. I have interference noises in the following situations:
1. If car is not running and radio LED backlighting is on (cuases a hum through the speakers). Mainly only noticeable when no music is playing (between songs, for example) or when there are very quiet parts of the music.
2. When using my headrest monitors.
3. Anytime the system accesses USB devices. The interference is pretty noticeable when reading/writing USB thumb drives - especially if they have LEDs on them.
4. If I my Eonon USB dashcam is active, it makes a strange intference noise from the speakers. Again, really only noticeable when no music is playing, but...
None of these are huge issues in of themselves, but at the same time, it just bothers me knowing that the interference exists. I've also noticed that the overall sound quality just isn't as good as my previous WinCE-based head-units - (much more expensive units - they have 4v preouts, higher-quality DAC's, etc) - even when using an external amplifier. Never had interference noises with them, so the Android unit is really a downgrade in terms of sound-quality, which is more important to me than having Android, I guess. I was hoping that there woulnd't be much difference in sound quality when using an external amp, but there still is...
At first, I thought the Android head-unit was awesome while testng "on the bench" - until I connected it in-car and used it for a few days, then I started noticing all of the "cons" (warning chimes and turn-signal sounds are horrible, button backlighting doesn't dim with the rest of the interior lights when dimmed, screen isn't as nice or as bright as previous units, super-reflecitive screen, the noise issues mentioned above, no true dual-zone for my headrest monitors, no XM tuner, having to jump through all kind of hoops just to get music to continue playing where it left off when restarting the car, etc). When I add up all of these "cons", I'm just not sure the Android unit is worth it for me. I'll probably be going back to my WinCE head-unit very soon (Dynavin N7 or Rosen GM1010/1210). The WinCE units are not as flexible as the Android units, but the sound quality is more important to me.
I'd *gladly* pay more for a higher-quality Android head-unit, but right now, they just don't seem to exist - which is unfortunate...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I also wanted to hear if you found out the problem .. since I myself have the same...
Related
Can anyone recommend a good 3.5mm Bluetooth adapter for my car.
Sent from my SPH-D710 using xda premium
I got the scosche by adapter from walmart for $36. It plugs into the 3.5mm jack and works well for audio streaming. Calls not so much.
Dicho por el E4GT de Latinmaxima con Tapatalk.
All bluetooth adapters suck. I've tried 10+ different A2DP capable adapters over the course of 2 years and all simply ruin the high frequencies. Nothing beats hardwired Aux cable if you actually care about sound quality...
Google "tunelink"
A little pricey, but worth it for the audio quality. Plus, it is only for streaming audio.... No speakerphone function...
pojieps said:
Google "tunelink"
A little pricey, but worth it for the audio quality. Plus, it is only for streaming audio.... No speakerphone function...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry, but this is just a gimmick for those without knowledge in my opinion. Other than the bluetooth function, which there are a million of those out there, a person could just plug a male to male 3.5mm stereo plug into the phone to the AUX port in the car if its available.
chrisnosleep said:
Sorry, but this is just a gimmick for those without knowledge in my opinion. Other than the bluetooth function, which there are a million of those out there, a person could just plug a male to male 3.5mm stereo plug into the phone to the AUX port in the car if its available.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I actually own it... I get WAY better quality over the bluetooth connection than I do with a direct line in. The headphone jack on your phone is designed for just that... headphones. Lining in directly reflects this. Wish there was a way for you to give it a try. I am kind of a sound snob, and I love mine. Plus, all you have to do is get in the car and once the bluetooth pairing happens, the app will open your music app and start playing.
Not trying to push this thing on ya. Just wanted you to know, I own one, and I am not "without knowledge"
Motorola Rokr T505 is small, does well with calls and music playing through blank FM stations to your car stereo. Best $40 investments plus NO CHORDS!
I had this one and used it with my EVO. Worked pretty well.
http://www.amazon.com/Miccus-BluBridge-Mini-Jack-Bluetooth-Bluetooth-Enabled/dp/B0038MA11U
I tried an AUX cable on three different phones. There was always a high pitched whine through my speakers. I started using a Samsung HM3500 plugged into the same AUX jack and got better quality music with no whine. Plus, no extra cable running through my car to the dash mount.
Did you guys all just have a car stereo that had bluetooth built in? I have an '05 Bonneville GXP but the stereo has neither a aux port or bluetooth capability...Major sad face...I really don't want to replace the stereo either because it's nice and fits the look of the car - would look stupid with anything other than a big touchscreen replacement and that's just too expensive.
Any suggestions?
You could get an FM modulator that would allow you to add a line in via your radio antenna, but they don't have great sound quality.
DutchDogg54 said:
Did you guys all just have a car stereo that had bluetooth built in? I have an '05 Bonneville GXP but the stereo has neither a aux port or bluetooth capability...Major sad face...I really don't want to replace the stereo either because it's nice and fits the look of the car - would look stupid with anything other than a big touchscreen replacement and that's just too expensive.
Any suggestions?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, just swap out the headunit for one with bluetooth build-in. Just make sure it supports A2DP (music streaming over bluetooth). I got mine from Amazon for $140, Sony MEX-BT3900U, and it been simply great. A2DP for bluetooth streaming, Aux port for wired 3.5mm audio, and it has USB port for charging the phone.
High Pitched whine is a POWER ISSUE
unplug your phone and it should go away. IE change chargers.
nerys71 said:
High Pitched whine is a POWER ISSUE
unplug your phone and it should go away. IE change chargers.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not all the time. My car had that problem and there were many other factors at fault.
Here are few things to look out for:
If your car has an amplifier in the rear, make sure that the headunit-to-amplifier audio cables are at least few feet away from power wires (aka, run them on the opposite side of the car than the power cables).
Make sure that the headunit is properly grounded. If that still doesn't help, run both headunit's + and - power wires directly to the car battery.
If problem still persists, repeat #2 but for the amp (if you have it).
If all above failed, it's time to invest in a better headunit. Your old one sucks and can't suppress the noise generated by the chassy/alternator.
I had crappy stock headunit and weaka$$ stock amp that would always make the static and constant whine problems. Ended up completely redoing the car audio system. Now, even with the headunit not grounded audio quality is PERFECT.
Here are the prices for my audio remodeling, all items bought brand new:
- Sony MEX-BT3900U. Headunit with CD, Aux, Handsfree Phone, Bluetooth A2DP audio, USB ($140)
- Hifonics ZXi80.4. Amplifier with 4 channels, 80W RMS per channel ($134)
- Alpine SPS-600 speakers. 6.5" 2-way speakers, 80W RMS ($50 ea)
- Stinger Pro 3 Series Snake. 6-channel, 20 feet RCA snake that goes from headunit to the amp in the rear ($35)
- 2x22' 8AWG battery-to-amp power wire
- 2x18' 12AWG amp-to-headunit power wire
- 4x18' 16AWG amp-to-front speaker wires
- 4x2' 16AWG amp-to-rear speaker wires
- 30A fuse in the engine bay
I ran the power cables on the left side of the car and ran the RCA snake on the right. everything was exactly $525 and I did all work myself (it's quite easy if you ask). now the sound quality in my used-to-be-audio-hell car is dam near perfect now and has absolutely no noise/static at all. you can jack the volume up crazy high without any distortions for like 80Hz+. 80Hz and below can be a problem when maxing out the volume as the speakers are only 6.5" and weren't meant to deliver bass. don't get me wrong, they do make nice bass but just don't handle it too well when playing it very loud.
after years of running this setup I'd say this was one of the best investments i've ever made. my car is built for drifting so it is setup very stiff and shakes/jumps like crazy when dailying (300mi/week) and when i do take it out for a spin the amount of stress it sees it crazy. after all this time you'd think at least some wires would come loose but nope, everything is still running perfect.
so yeah, if you actually care about sound quality in your car and would like it to last, just redo it from scratch. it's fun and is totally worth it
Not trying to pick a fight but lets be clear here
If your car has an amplifier in the rear, make sure that the headunit-to-amplifier audio cables are at least few feet away from power wires (aka, run them on the opposite side of the car than the power cables).
Which is a power issue
Make sure that the headunit is properly grounded.
Which is a power issue
If that still doesn't help, run both headunit's + and - power wires directly to the car battery.
Which is a power issue
If problem still persists, repeat #2 but for the amp (if you have it).
If all above failed, it's time to invest in a better headunit.
Which is a power issue
Your old one sucks and can't suppress the noise generated by the chassy/alternator.
Which is a power issue
See what I mean?
Cars make a lot of "NOISE" this noise is a power issue. it comes from your alternator and your coil and your spark plugs IE "POWER ISSUES"
if you have bad grounds or are lacking noise suppression (cheap equipment old equipment etc.. etc..) or an older car making a TON of extra noise etc.. etc..
Power inverters (especially cheap ones) are notorious for "dirty power" that lets in noise.
when I power my phone off the USB on the cheap inverter's USB port I get big time whine noises painful even.
use the USB port in the radio and I get no noise (but then it tries to "READ" the phone instead of just charging it and won't let me use aux hehe
Sometimes you can get a coil thing to add to power to reduce this noise but usually its just cheap equipment ($7 power inverter
plug a 110v to usb adapter into same inverter and no noise. The 110v adapter isolates and prevents the noise leakage.
nerys71 said:
Not trying to pick a fight but lets be clear here
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
haha time to clear up a misunderstanding here. my reply was referring to the "unplug your phone and it should go away" statement and thus assuming that you, by saying "its a power issue", were referring only to the inverter that was powering the phone at times getting a better quality inverter (aka, one that has capacitor or capacitor-pack to smooth out the voltage spikes and noise) is sufficient and at times it is not. I've experienced both. it's also worth mentioning that after redoing my sound system even the crappiest of crap inverters works just fine
frifox said:
Yes, just swap out the headunit for one with bluetooth build-in. Just make sure it supports A2DP (music streaming over bluetooth). I got mine from Amazon for $140, Sony MEX-BT3900U, and it been simply great. A2DP for bluetooth streaming, Aux port for wired 3.5mm audio, and it has USB port for charging the phone.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah, I've looked into those kind of replacements...plenty out there for reasonable prices but they would completely mar the aesthetic value of the nice interior of my Bonny. That's why I was saying that only the touchscreens that would fill the whole double (might be 1.5) din stereo spot in my car would do.
Thanks, both of you guys, for your responses...guess I'm stuck waiting till I get a much newer car
I'm not saying that you're wrong about it being a power issue, but the BT headset I mentioned came with an adapter for an AUX jack and that solved my problem. So, either solution works.
the issue is the radio is connected to the same "power source" that your "phone" is now connected to.
so if any component in that chain does not control the power noise (that is what the noise is coming from your power system)
you INJECT that noise into your audio stream the moment you "link" the devices together (power not audio)
this is why if you use a seperate battery pack to charge the phone you will not get this noise. your battery pack is "isolated" from the car's power system literally physically.
I am only talking about the typical whine pop crackle high pitched noise you get the moment you plug in your charger. IE clear no noise plug in chargers Head burster sounds start coming out of your speakers
that noise is a "power issue" you can't eliminate the power issues (except by eliminating your alternator??) but you can filter it. some devices (chargers) do this better than others
the BT unit works because you "broke" the chain. (no audio cable going from the PHONE to the RADIO)
Again, I'm not denying what you're saying. You're absolutely correct. However, OP was asking for the best BT unit to plug into the jack, not how to solve the issues with cables and power sources. I was simply providing my opinion and experience along the lines of what he was asking for.
I just received a Hizpo 7.1.2 unit made for GM Vehicles 2007-2012(depending on model). I Installed it in a 2007 GMC Yukon XL Denali w/ Bose, XM, factory rear camera, Onstar, and factory rear entertainment. The goal was to retain all vehicle functionality except Onstar and XM.
The Unit: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B077SBX8CG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Android 7.1.2, CPU: Rockchip PX3 Cortex A9 Quad Core 1.6GHz, Memory: 16GB, RAM: 2GB
MCU: MTCE_XRC_V2.75_1
I attached pics of the specifics.
The Good:
1. Very fast. The unit seems quite responsive so far. I have only installed the Youtube app and Car Launcher.
2. Screen Quality is fantastic. No issues so far but I need to attempt to watch some HD files from an SD card
3. WiFi download speeds are fairly quick, no complaints
4. Bluetooth Audio quality is great.
5. Radio Quality is great, no excess noise and range seems to be on par with stock system
6. BT internal Mic seems to work OK. My wife said I sounded like I am in a car so pretty much normal.
The Bad:
1. Instructions for install are non existent. It is supposed to be plug and play but initially I couldn't figure out why I couldn't get any audio. Turns out I had to plug two random blue "amp-con" wires together.
2. The dB output is set to "0" from the factory. This makes volume level 1 waaaay to loud with the Bose system. Thanks to a few posts on these forums, I was able to get in to the factory settings(code 126) and lower the output to a reasonable level and this worked perfectly. Sound quality is still fantastic after the change.
3. There is a very light static noise from all speakers. Some have suggested this is just common because of junk internals or poor wiring.
4. Every click of the Volume knob gives a light audible thumb noise. I am not sure if this is due to something internal or maybe I need to tape up every connection in the back to ensure nothing is touching.
5. Wifi antenna is bulky and cannot be used on my model unless I cut the plastic behind the dash. I left the antenna off and I can hit my phones hotspot without any issues.
6. CANBUS settings at the factory were at none. I had to change it to GM before it would recognize the volume buttons on the steering wheel but those do work.
Things left to test/figure out:
1. Factory Rear Entertainment. Now working after playing with the RCA's to find which ones did what. No adapter needed but still trying to figure out how to force the rear screen to show anything playing on the main LCD and not just DVD.
If anyone has any ideas on the static, I am all ears. I will update this with my findings as I personally scoured this forum for info on Hizpo units and found nothing. I know Hizpo is just a seller but still without the right info its almost impossible to know what MCU your unit will be. I hope this will help others in the future.
Where should I look for ROMS to put on if I can get the static fixed? Thanks!
Krmnnghia said:
I just received a Hizpo 7.1.2 unit made for GM Vehicles 2007-2012(depending on model). I Installed it in a 2007 GMC Yukon XL Denali w/ Bose, XM, factory rear camera, Onstar, and factory rear entertainment. The goal was to retain all vehicle functionality except Onstar and XM.
The Unit: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B077SBX8CG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Android 7.1.2, CPU: Rockchip PX3 Cortex A9 Quad Core 1.6GHz, Memory: 16GB, RAM: 2GB
MCU: MTCE_XRC_V2.75_1
I attached pics of the specifics.
The Good:
1. Very fast. The unit seems quite responsive so far. I have only installed the Youtube app and Car Launcher.
2. Screen Quality is fantastic. No issues so far but I need to attempt to watch some HD files from an SD card
3. WiFi download speeds are fairly quick, no complaints
4. Bluetooth Audio quality is great.
5. Radio Quality is great, no excess noise and range seems to be on par with stock system
6. BT internal Mic seems to work OK. My wife said I sounded like I am in a car so pretty much normal.
The Bad:
1. Instructions for install are non existent. It is supposed to be plug and play but initially I couldn't figure out why I couldn't get any audio. Turns out I had to plug two random blue "amp-con" wires together.
2. The dB output is set to "0" from the factory. This makes volume level 1 waaaay to loud with the Bose system. Thanks to a few posts on these forums, I was able to get in to the factory settings(code 126) and lower the output to a reasonable level and this worked perfectly. Sound quality is still fantastic after the change.
3. There is a very light static noise from all speakers. Some have suggested this is just common because of junk internals or poor wiring.
4. Every click of the Volume knob gives a light audible thumb noise. I am not sure if this is due to something internal or maybe I need to tape up every connection in the back to ensure nothing is touching.
5. Wifi antenna is bulky and cannot be used on my model unless I cut the plastic behind the dash. I left the antenna off and I can hit my phones hotspot without any issues.
6. CANBUS settings at the factory were at none. I had to change it to GM before it would recognize the volume buttons on the steering wheel but those do work.
Things left to test/figure out:
1. GPS. I have't wired up the antenna but will do so this week.
2. Rear Camera. It turns on when I go into Reverse but I have not figured out how to use the factory camera with it. I have the Metra BACKUPCAM adapter on order but given what my plugs were used behind the factory radio, I cant tell where the original plug is on the vehicle
3. Factory Rear Entertainment. Rear ceiling monitor turns on when car is on but I have no video back there which I knew would happen. I have the GMRSAV adaper on order to solve this but again, given what my plugs were used behind the factory radio, I cant tell where the original plug is on the vehicle
If anyone has any ideas on the static, I am all ears. I will update this with my findings as I personally scoured this forum for info on Hizpo units and found nothing. I know Hizpo is just a seller but still without the right info its almost impossible to know what MCU your unit will be. I hope this will help others in the future.
Where should I look for ROMS to put on if I can get the static fixed? Thanks!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have read over and over that some head units have horrible grounding paths. If you are using RCA jacks, watch youtube videos on grounding the RCA jacks.
If not using RCA jacks, placing a ground wire on the chassis, or even don't use the factory ground.
Another thing is keep reducing the factory radio volume settings as you started doing. You may be picking up noice from the radio IC.
LET ME KNOW
yellaboyla said:
I have read over and over that some head units have horrible grounding paths. If you are using RCA jacks, watch youtube videos on grounding the RCA jacks.
If not using RCA jacks, placing a ground wire on the chassis, or even don't use the factory ground.
Another thing is keep reducing the factory radio volume settings as you started doing. You may be picking up noice from the radio IC.
LET ME KNOW
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the suggestions! I took the wiring out and am going to tape up and cap anything that is exposed metal to ensure nothing is touching anything it shouldn't. Fitting all this stuff back in is tough. I will first try to ground the chassis. I can't ground the rca's as there are no female jacks on the radio itself. The cables come out and connect outside the unit.
UPDATE:
1. Rear Camera works flawlessly with the Metra BACKUPCAM adapter.
2. Factory Rear Entertainment works WITHOUT the GMRSAV adapter. Because there aren't really any instructions, I just started up a DVD and started plugging in Video feed lines until I found the combo that works. Unfortunately this is still only when I select DVD on the unit.
Someone please tell me the ROM geniuses have figured out a way to mirror everything to the rear monitors? I would love to play Youtube videos for my son in the back.
Next up is cutting some plastic behind the dash to be able to use the Wifi antenna and GPS antenna. I wanted to avoid this but the GPS antenna output is just in the wrong location so we cut!
UPDATE:
Cut the plastic out behind the deck.
Was still very tight fit but the wifi antenna and gps plug in fine now.
Wifi range is very good. Picking up signal from peoples houses as I drive by. GPS is very good. The stock iGO app seems to be worthless or I don't fully understand it. It can't seem to locate POI. I ditched it and went with Sygic which runs smooth and works with the factory GPS antenna without issue.
I have tried several suggestions to fix the static issue like grounding the head unit case, adjusting the brightness(apparently some folks get feedback from the LCD), adjusting all factory volume levels as low as they go. Nothing has fixed it.
I have same static click on volume knob. I have tried to adjust any volume seetimgs, but doesn't seem to help.
My rear screens worked on initial install, but now, I get no display out of them. I also want the IR headsets to work as they are not.
I agree about the screen mirroring option. But I habe tried youtubeTV and it was not compatible. Netflix wouldnt download (figured non compatible) so not sure screen mirroring to rear deop downs really matters.
are you having any trouble with bluetooth streaming on a2dp sounding awful?
How did you get Sygic to run off SD card . Are there instructions in a forum somewhere? Get Sygic to run on your Android and then copy to SD card?? and help would be appreciated. My Hizpo is using IGO PRIME , it ok , but could be better.
Hi, I cannot get signal in the radio, I have bought a antenna adapter and no different, do I need to connect the wire labelled amp up to anything?? This is just unconnected at the moment as didn’t know where to connect it too?
Thanks
Hi
Can please share the canbus option selected in factory settings.
Thanks.
I have a MTCD GS unit for an Audi TT and I get a feint electrical noise constantly through the cars speakers. If you have music or the radio on it is not too noticable but otherwise it is really obvious. It is definitely the unit as it isn't there with the stock head unit and if you hard reset the GS unit with the reset button whilst it is running it immediately goes away until the unit has booted. It was originally supplied with a RK3188/PX3 board running Android 5.0. I have since replaced the board with a PX5 board and have upgraded it to Android 8.0 (Malaysk). I isn't a software issue and is down to the hardware (I think...).
I have tried disabling WiFi and BlueTooth - although I don't think BlueTooth can be disabled as its not a native Android component of the system - and the noise remains. It is a feint pop and hiss noise that I think is an earth/grounding issue. I was going to replace the cable that goes to the WiFi antenna on the rear socket as this looks flimsy, however I am not sure it will make a difference.
Any ideas?
Andy
dirty power maybe? did you connect a chassis ground for the 0v on the unit.. my harness came with a ground with ring terminal..
Sent from my PH-1 using Tapatalk
I have exactly same problem. But when the colors on LCD screen black : electrical noise increases. Any other color : electrical noise decreases. I will check groundings of unit in this weekend. I ll write here if i find out anything.
stinger4321 said:
dirty power maybe? did you connect a chassis ground for the 0v on the unit.. my harness came with a ground with ring terminal..
Sent from my PH-1 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It shouldn't be dirty power as it connects into the factory loom. I'll take it out at weekend and see if grounding the chassis of the head unit to the car does anything.
Andy
I had this problem on my ksp. Ultimately I found opamps under the sound processor with dirty ground on the feedback resistors. I substituted resistors to the processor board ground header lead. Now all I hear is my fan.
I took the head unit out last weekend and tried earthing the chassis to the car and it made no difference - you can still hear the feint pops and hiss (all I can think to describe it is radio interference?). I also noticed that it gets worse when the cars lights are on and the head unit backlights come on (via CANBUS telling it I assume?).
It is a MTCD GS unit and has an external 'dongle' that is covered with heatshrink that is inline with the audio outputs. This has something to do with the level of the audio out - however I am just guessing here TBH.
Any other ideas how to eliminate this noise?
Cheers
Andy
ADB100 said:
I took the head unit out last weekend and tried earthing the chassis to the car and it made no difference - you can still hear the feint pops and hiss (all I can think to describe it is radio interference?). I also noticed that it gets worse when the cars lights are on and the head unit backlights come on (via CANBUS telling it I assume?).
It is a MTCD GS unit and has an external 'dongle' that is covered with heatshrink that is inline with the audio outputs. This has something to do with the level of the audio out - however I am just guessing here TBH.
Any other ideas how to eliminate this noise?
Cheers
Andy
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Try grounding the PX5 board heatsink with the unit chassis.
iRcKenny said:
Try grounding the PX5 board heatsink with the unit chassis.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I had the same noise issue when the PX3 board was installed and this has a much smaller heatsink than the PX5?
I'll give it a shot but its a bit more involved than just taking the unit out of the car though...
Andy
ADB100 said:
I had the same noise issue when the PX3 board was installed and this has a much smaller heatsink than the PX5?
I'll give it a shot but its a bit more involved than just taking the unit out of the car though...
Andy
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So, you also have that noise before upgrading the core board, have you any chance to temporaly install another common radio like low budget Pionner, Alpine or similar? If yes check if the noise persist; some TT owners with noise from speakers said that the cause is the factory amplifier.
Have luck!
i have heard that the problem may be from the antenna, try getting a noise filter for the antenna
Record the noise with a video. Some quiet electrical noise is common, but we're talking almost silent and only when no music is playing at all.
ADB100 said:
I took the head unit out last weekend and tried earthing the chassis to the car and it made no difference - you can still hear the feint pops and hiss (all I can think to describe it is radio interference?). I also noticed that it gets worse when the cars lights are on and the head unit backlights come on (via CANBUS telling it I assume?).
It is a MTCD GS unit and has an external 'dongle' that is covered with heatshrink that is inline with the audio outputs. This has something to do with the level of the audio out - however I am just guessing here TBH.
Any other ideas how to eliminate this noise?
Cheers
Andy
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have the same thing on my A3 and although it doesn’t really bother me I’d be interested to see if someone finds a fix. On the A3’s it only affects the ones with Bose.
All my cabling is exactly the same as yours aswell.
I once emailed a company that sells the factory Bose amps for the audis and reconditions them and the bloke said that the signal sent to the Bose amp from the aftermarket headunit is different to the signal that is sent from the factory unit so I’d guess it’s something to do with that.
In regards to the dongle thing in heatshrink, that is a little board with a plug on it that the audio cables plug into. My speakers stopped working so I cut that open once and the connector had become unplugged inside. I think it’s there because the blue amp cable is connected through it aswell which is supposed to be for the amp to turn it on and that blue cable never used to be there on the older model units.
I have the same issue on my brand new dasaita 10.2 inch px5 android 8. Connected through RCA to my amp.
I will do some troubleshooting and see if I can figure it out.
BTW, there is a very loud static noise when my bluetooth is connected to my phone, I emailed dasaita about that particular issue.
checksum123 said:
I have the same issue on my brand new dasaita 10.2 inch px5 android 8. Connected through RCA to my amp.
I will do some troubleshooting and see if I can figure it out.
BTW, there is a very loud static noise when my bluetooth is connected to my phone, I emailed dasaita about that particular issue.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have the same unit with the same issues. Hot Audio sent me a replacement bluetooth module to solder in. That fixed the bluetooth noise. I still have slight background hiss all the time.
could you guys please take a look at my issue which includes electrical noise - even when radio is off.
e.g.
- downloading maps on Sygic, there is a clicking that goes with the increase in % of the download.
- browsing the menu and / or selecting apps has a varying noise
Interestingly, the rear-camera power seems unstable as does the GPS.
I also noted, that i couldn't power the unit on the bench via the vw quadlock connector, i had to use the white connector.
Makes me wonder if there is some general grounding problem that is the problem.
https://forum.xda-developers.com/an...droid-8-px5-mtcelmv2-881-vw-multiple-t3884665
I have an equal problem with my eonon px3 7.1, which is then klyde. Light rustling always constant, then when I register with the front usb camera the noise is much higher and seems a squeak of mouse .. I changed mb sent by them but the problem remains, even connecting the ground to the chassis of the car. Quache solution please guys, I'm going crazy.
gwaitsi said:
could you guys please take a look at my issue which includes electrical noise - even when radio is off.
e.g.
- downloading maps on Sygic, there is a clicking that goes with the increase in % of the download.
- browsing the menu and / or selecting apps has a varying noise
Interestingly, the rear-camera power seems unstable as does the GPS.
I also noted, that i couldn't power the unit on the bench via the vw quadlock connector, i had to use the white connector.
Makes me wonder if there is some general grounding problem that is the problem.
https://forum.xda-developers.com/an...droid-8-px5-mtcelmv2-881-vw-multiple-t3884665
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
ADB100 said:
I have a MTCD GS unit for an Audi TT and I get a feint electrical noise constantly through the cars speakers. If you have music or the radio on it is not too noticable but otherwise it is really obvious. It is definitely the unit as it isn't there with the stock head unit and if you hard reset the GS unit with the reset button whilst it is running it immediately goes away until the unit has booted. It was originally supplied with a RK3188/PX3 board running Android 5.0. I have since replaced the board with a PX5 board and have upgraded it to Android 8.0 (Malaysk). I isn't a software issue and is down to the hardware (I think...).
I have tried disabling WiFi and BlueTooth - although I don't think BlueTooth can be disabled as its not a native Android component of the system - and the noise remains. It is a feint pop and hiss noise that I think is an earth/grounding issue. I was going to replace the cable that goes to the WiFi antenna on the rear socket as this looks flimsy, however I am not sure it will make a difference.
Any ideas?
Andy
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have the same isue, almost gone when changed the poor quality antenna from the WIFI (used a 9DB antenna)
Pick one from amazon,
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GDCLVPJ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
You can try to purchase a extension canble an antenna and put away from the unit and the engine.
In my case the pops and hiss almos gone and are barely noticiable.
The qualty of the original antenna is horrible.
jerrymh said:
I have the same isue, almost gone when changed the poor quality antenna from the WIFI (used a 9DB antenna)
Pick one from amazon,
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GDCLVPJ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
You can try to purchase a extension canble an antenna and put away from the unit and the engine.
In my case the pops and hiss almos gone and are barely noticiable.
The qualty of the original antenna is horrible.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
by that token, simply turning off the wifi would prove it no?
gwaitsi said:
by that token, simply turning off the wifi would prove it no?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You would think so wouldn't you?
I have a couple of spare SMA WiFi antennas that I can try. If I get some time later today I'll try and get the head unit out of the dash and try them. I'll post whether it makes any difference (the spare antenna I have might also be crap though...).
Andy
What I found helped is that I put some ferrite beads on the power cables to the headunit and the speaker cables from the unit. It hasn’t totally removed the issue but it is certainly better and I haven’t lost any sound quality(if anything it’s slightly better as there’s less interference).
Hello,
I have an other problem, i have noise in the speakers like when i accelerate, the sound of the engine speed appears on the speakers !
All is ok between the HU, just i have 5/6 RCA that is not connected... Is it possible that is this RCA the problem ? What can i do please ?
Someone can tell me what can i do ?
Thank you !!
If it’s like a wining noise that changes with the revs, that’s usually caused by poor earth connection.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Earthing issue, alternator whine, or just bad insulation on your speaker wires. Look at some isolators and noise filters.
it may be an issue with the am/fm antenna, try disconnecting and see if you have speaker wine then. If theres no speaker wine when the antenna is disconnected, get an antenna noise filter
skezza said:
Earthing issue, alternator whine, or just bad insulation on your speaker wires. Look at some isolators and noise filters.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Getting isolators, noise filters or suppressors is just papering over the cracks so to speak. They do get rid of the noise but they also reduce your sound quality. It’s better to find the problem and fix it rather than just buying noise filters etc.
Id tape up all the connections behind the unit, check all the ground connections, or if your car has a factory amp it could be that the amp isn’t getting any power so this is one of the side effects that you see. I have an Audi A3 with Bose amp and this is one of the problems you get with these units if there is no blue amp cable supplied with the speaker cables to be able to turn the amp on.
ab1702 said:
Getting isolators, noise filters or suppressors is just papering over the cracks so to speak. They do get rid of the noise but they also reduce your sound quality. It’s better to find the problem and fix it rather than just buying noise filters etc.
Id tape up all the connections behind the unit, check all the ground connections, or if your car has a factory amp it could be that the amp isn’t getting any power so this is one of the side effects that you see. I have an Audi A3 with Bose amp and this is one of the problems you get with these units if there is no blue amp cable supplied with the speaker cables to be able to turn the amp on.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I agree. Papering over the cracks is a perfect description. Another decent saying is needle in a haystack.
Come back in 12 months when you still haven't got rid of it. These things can be a nightmare to solve.
I recently purchased an Erisin head unit and for the most part I'm really happy with it. It was plug and play with my BOSE system although I am a little worried I haven't attached the amp control cable (not sure where its supposed to attach) and it still works with my BOSE system despite it having separate amplifiers.
There is however a fair bit of static noise which appears to be alternator noise as there is no noise when the engine is off and increases with engine RPM. I've been told this is a grounding issue. When people say this are they referring to grounding within the amp or grounding within my car? Also would shielding the amplifier and cables help? Reducing cable length by cutting and soldering them? I believe ferrite beads can work with EMI, would they work?
The main reason for this post is to ask whether anyone has successfully used a USB DAC with a PX5 unit as I read a lot about it not working with these units. If this is possible how is this done? USB DAC going back into the RCA analogue inputs? How does the amp then know that its audio is re-routed back to itself?
Cheers,
Mike
Your grounds need to stay away from any audio signal wires and need to be as short as possible to avoid picking up noise from other wires in the car.
Also your signal wires need to be as short of a run and try to keep away from other power cords. If possible rca wires are the easiest way to reject noise but that's only if the amp will actually reject the noise that the rca pick up.
Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk
gjkrisa said:
Your grounds need to stay away from any audio signal wires and need to be as short as possible to avoid picking up noise from other wires in the car.
Also your signal wires need to be as short of a run and try to keep away from other power cords. If possible rca wires are the easiest way to reject noise but that's only if the amp will actually reject the noise that the rca pick up.
Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So should I cut the RCA outputs from the HU and solder them to the RCA inputs on the supplied harness as short as what is reasonable? Then as for grounds, I assume the ground is within the same harness as all the audio, I should find a new ground for it?
Cheers,
Mike
Do not cut the rcas there best left how they are but if you dac isn't Meant to run in a vehicle that may be your issue it's not been set up to reject noise from in a car specially if it was cheap.
if you get something like a Rockford Fosgate Punch PBR400X4D if size is an issue would be better as far as not needing to deal with so much trouble shooting to get ride of the noise.
Most car amifiers know how to reject the noise from the cables these days thru rca I'm not so sure about home audio dacs.
I'm sure it is possible to do what you want to do but your going to probably need every trick to stay away from putting noise into the lines.
Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk
gjkrisa said:
Do not cut the rcas there best left how they are but if you dac isn't Meant to run in a vehicle that may be your issue it's not been set up to reject noise from in a car specially if it was cheap.
if you get something like a Rockford Fosgate Punch PBR400X4D if size is an issue would be better as far as not needing to deal with so much trouble shooting to get ride of the noise.
Most car amifiers know how to reject the noise from the cables these days thru rca I'm not so sure about home audio dacs.
I'm sure it is possible to do what you want to do but your going to probably need every trick to stay away from putting noise into the lines.
Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry I maybe wasn't all that clear. The USB dac question was separate. I'm getting alot of what I assume is alternator noise as it's only when the engine is on and increases with rpm. Interestingly it goes when the car is moving and there's no throttle. Not sure if alternators run if there's no fuel input or something.
As of yet I've determined it's a grounding issue. Does that mean grounding within the amp? The unit is an erisin unit and was supposed to be plug and play which for the most part it seems to be but I know the bose pin in the audi is to ground the HUs internal amplifier and I'm not sure it the android unit does that.
As of yet I've not tried anything so any suggestions are good.
Mike
mh5039 said:
Sorry I maybe wasn't all that clear. The USB dac question was separate. I'm getting alot of what I assume is alternator noise as it's only when the engine is on and increases with rpm. Interestingly it goes when the car is moving and there's no throttle. Not sure if alternators run if there's no fuel input or something.
As of yet I've determined it's a grounding issue. Does that mean grounding within the amp? The unit is an erisin unit and was supposed to be plug and play which for the most part it seems to be but I know the bose pin in the audi is to ground the HUs internal amplifier and I'm not sure it the android unit does that.
As of yet I've not tried anything so any suggestions are good.
Mike
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes the alternator will usually run all the time except in newer vehicles .
Ok that's good that you don't need to figure out if it's signal going to an external amp. Have you tried emailing the maker it shouldn't be an issue with ground inside the hu.
I'm surprised no one else is commenting on this but from this point I'd have to see pictures of what's going on and maybe a drawn out wire diagram.
Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk
gjkrisa said:
Yes the alternator will usually run all the time except in newer vehicles .
Ok that's good that you don't need to figure out if it's signal going to an external amp. Have you tried emailing the maker it shouldn't be an issue with ground inside the hu.
I'm surprised no one else is commenting on this but from this point I'd have to see pictures of what's going on and maybe a drawn out wire diagram.
Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Aye I'd assume they would but if I go down a hill and take my foot off the throttle, so the ecu would cut out the fuel supply, I'd assume the alternator would be generating a current as the engine is still moving but the noise stops.
Actually maybe I shouldn't sound so confident, my browsing of forums suggests it's a grounding issue but I actually have very little knowledge of electronics. All I know is that I've taken out an Audi Rns-e OEM head unit in a car with separate OEM installed amplifier as part of the bose sound system upgrade.
There's no noise when the engine is off, the noise starts when the engine is turned on and is effected when you turn screen brightness up, and when you touch the screen. It also increases with rpm. There is a range of low and high frequency noise.
The head unit bought:
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.co.uk/ulk/itm/383205297789
They have offered me a refund if I want it but I do actually like the unit, the sound quality isn't bad and the functionality is so good. So if it's something I can fix Id rather fix it. They've suggested using a high to low converter in what I think is using the amps amplifier and converting that input back down to use as the line input for mine but I see no point in having a good amp to do that. But I suppose that should give some insight into where the issue comes from.