single speaker adjustment. best done with screen replacement. MOD - LG G Pad X 8.0 Themes, Apps, and Mods

The LG V521 single speaker is ok, but leaves room for disappointment if your trying to watch the screen head on . ( why can't manufactures figure out - WE LOVE FRONT FACING SPEAKERS ?)
i have picked up a handful of V521's cheap, replaced screens, removed FRP , or repaired damaged bits, to end up with a fair device for under 20 bucks. ( new LCD's can be had for 8-10 bucks )
the last few ones i fixed, i decided to fix the DOWN FIRING SPEAKER , into a semi-front facing speaker.
- this isn't perfect, and may or not fit a case, but it really does help to hear the speaker from the front facing screen. total time is probably about 30 mins to complete, but it's best to perform this in layers and let the CA set up properly. ( even using kicker , i still recommend letting it rest overnight due to plastics MOLD RELEASE AGENT )
materials used
1. HIGH QUALITY C.A> (super glue) < thin and rubber reinforced types.
2. THIN CARBON FIBER sheets ( .5mm) (if youve never handled this before, CAUTIONS !!! its sharp!!!!!)
3. C.A. KICKER ( super glue accelerator )
remove damaged stock LCD from main aluminum frame. ( you can leave ALL the components attached EXCEPT THE ACTUAL SPEAKER ) , unless you really desire to remove the main board?
use sandpaper to ( 150G ) flatten and remove plastic around the speaker exit holes at bottom of tablet frame. < outer frame is PLASTIC, and if you use a dremel or high speed tool to grind away plastic, it exposes the plastics MOLD RELEASE AGENTS.
Remove about 2MM AT MOST of the existing area INWARD , where the stock speaker sound EXITS at the bottom. ( about 2mm to each side of outer holes as well for blending )
trim a small , but thin strip of CARBON FIBER to match the area you removed by sanding. MAKE SURE ITS SLIGHTLY OVER SIDED , as it requires a soft bend for propper audio/acoustics.
pick a side, charger port or far side, and TACK ( think- pin drop- amount ) glue JUST ONE CORNER in which you started. GOOD C.A. makes this work, and don't expect superglue from your local chain store to work as well. i used a bunch of toothpicks to keep the center section away from the housing, and then tacked the other side with another pin-drop of glue. this point should revela a ARCH covering over the bottom speaker holes, and that's what you want.
the last part is trial and error. i found it best to use RUBBER REINFORCED TYPE C.A. and fill in the bottom of the arch we created, creating a half cone shape. ( rubber type CA is like plaster and makes filling in gaps easy, while also keeping it very thin.)
this is left unpainted to show what it should end as,
-note: you can buy thin CARBON FIBER many places, its quite cheap and because of its make-up, has a great deflecting property for sound.
-SUPER GLUE or C.A, -- LOCKTITE is good ( very expensive for 420 ) but i personally like a LOCAL OHIO GUY who makes it. ( USA MADE - TRIPLE DISTILLED type ) HYPERBOND or hyperbond amaz -
- if you have never used a premium C.A. ( superglue ) then PLEASE be careful. most common stores and gas stations have single distilled types with fillers, which are fine if your gluing paper...
(higher grades of CA can and will bond your fingers for DAYS !!, so gloves, safety glasses, etc... be safe PLEASE !)
PS: when you have the correct shape and cavity for sound to DEFLECT forward, i recommend layering a few coats of CA, and fine sanding with 400g, so it blends and feels soft/smooth. ( or go all crazy with 7000g sandpaper and make it SHINE ! )
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Easy & Quick solutions: loose battery cover and that thingy under transparent strip

Easy & Quick solutions: loose battery cover and that thingy under transparent strip
Hello, lately i had problems with loose battery cover on my Xperia S, and, thinking about getting it even more loosy by leaving that be brought me to tinkering with easy and cheap solution, and i've found revertible and easy solution for both issues.
Loose battery cover:
A tiny layer of hot glue placed here (image 1) can fix your solution. Keep in mind that too thick layer can bulge the cover a little, work quickly and press on the S(E) logo firmly after cover installation to make the layer as thin as possible. Only drawback is that the glue needs to be reapplied every time you need to change your SIM card. glue can be easily removed without leaving any trace on the phone in case of warranty service request or selling the phone... to remove the cover just use a little bit more force than you are used to.
Image 1 - Personally recommended place to put the hot glue layer:
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Loose plastic thingy covering antenna under transparent strip:
Using a gutiar pick or any similar object (definately NOT screwdrivers or any other metal tools, nails - they are too solid, too, and might damage the plastic, it's better to destroy gutiar pick than look of your treasured phone, trust me)
The picture below shows how to properly remove the thin plastic covering antenna:
Just be carefull and do not use too much force, the plastic is really thin... it might be kinda tricky but you should figure it out eventually...
after successfully removing the cover, use some glue designed to make plastic to plastic connections. (NOTE: cyanoacrylate based glues are not recommended - in case you need to put the cover off again, you will most likely destroy it... I've personally used Revell contacta glue compound designed to glue plastic models - it is firm, but the glue can be easily removed with little effort and the joint is not too superior so it will break sooner than the plastic cover)
After putting few drops of glue (the less is better) just carefully put it back in - this should be easier than removing it, just be sure to fit it properly, it's kinda PITA to put it back down... Let the glue dry and enjoy
DISCLAIMER:
Despite both methods are used and tested for one month by me, I take no responsibility for results. Basics of workmanship skills required (or at least recommended, if you are not comfy with putting your phone apart even a little, then entrust with the work somebody you believe he can get the job done, or just forget about this thread
Nice tips, although I solved the loose battery cover by placing two small bits of blu-tack on top of the two screws at the bottom left and right of the back. That has solved the issue without needing to reglue or get messy every time you need access to the SIM.
Thanks for another tip, when i need to access my SIM card i'll try your method, I've considered it first but i was sceptical a bit about the potential results
loose back cover
I actually just rolled some normal tape on itself and stuck it on the spot where the glue is put (didn't have glue).. Works perfect as well
The tape i've tryed now is most likely using weaker glue than yours and it's not as firm as i would expect but it's quicker solution and undoubtly less messy, not to mention that it doesn't require quick manipulation... I've used standard office transparent tape... i've no access to my toolbox atm as i'm @ work, so i'll try stronger tape when i return home... thanks for your tip

Case + Cradle? Impossible? NOT ANYMORE!

So, you have a shiny new Galaxy S3 and you know that you're prone to dropping it into caves, diving into oceans with it in your pocket, or running it over with your tank, so like any smart individual you opted to buy yourself a super protective case like Otterbox Defender or similar. Problem is now you've just taken out the possibility of placing it in a charging cradle, or some sort of desktop holding device, right? Not Anymore!
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With a few simple and cheap items, you can make yourself one that doesn't look like a 7 year old kid put it together during arts and crafts!
Here's a list of what you'll need, starting from most expensive to possibly free if your boss isn't looking
Logitech MX Revolution Mouse - you only need the charging cradle, but it'll be tough finding just the cradle without this fantastic Wiltron recommended mouse - eBay average pricing at time of posting was about $15-30 dollars for the mouse and cradle. We're going to be removing the guts of the cradle so the mouse wont be able to be charged any more after this.
USB Cable - The same one that came with your phone or an aftermarket one. Should have a good plastic head on it for stability, but the stock cable is fine too (that's what I'm using).
Tools - Drill, Screwdriver (+), Knife, Hot Glue or epoxy if you're fancy
(Optional) Expanding non-flammable foaming insulation - this is only for stability and additional weight, and is purely optional. I used it in one of the two cradles I made.
Once we've pilfered the office supply cabinet, it's time to get to work. Start by turning it over and peeling off the warning label and rubber feet. Save the little feet thingies as you'll need them later. There should be one or more screws to remove. My home cradle had 4 in a box shape, but the one I have at work only had one screw in the center. Once removed, hollow out the guts and kick them in a stylish fashion as you'll no longer need them. Seen in red below, push out that separator plate as that's what you'll be working with for drilling and gluing. Ignore the green part for now, that comes later.
You'll want to either stick the metal portion of the USB cable through a small drilled hole (or cut hole with the knife, depending on how badass you are), or if your case is substantially large, put a portion of the plastic housing around the USB head through a larger drilled (or cut) hole.
Once you've tested the seating of your phone with the position of the cable so that it will charge when seated, glue it in place in the red plate, and re-seat it into the cradle. Glue that plate in if it's loose. When the glue is dried, if you've opted to use the expanding foam, get foaming. Cut/file away excess foam, and then re-seal the bottom plate after 24 hours (so the foam is set and has stopped expanding).
Now, remember that green line in the image above? You can leave that as is, or file it down. I left it as is and it causes no ill effects. A little balancing game is required if I want to "dock" it in portrait mode, but landscape mode is fine (abet unable to charge in this fashion).
It does work though
Higher resolution photos:
http://i.imgur.com/zhrPgOo.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/vpAxPxt.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/ooaI9w3.jpg

DIY Universal phone holder for gamepad

Hi everybody,
Since a moment I wanted to have an easy way to mount my smartphone (a huge Galaxy Note 2) on a gamepad for playing comfortably some games (mainly emulators), or even, transform it in a nvidia shield look a like, with the help of the awesome Limelight app.
I didn't want to buy a bluetooth controller with a built-in mount because I'm afraid that their size would be to small for my big hands, and I already have some controllers at home.
I didn't want to buy a unique holder (like GameKlip) that fits only one type of gamepad and one type of smartphone.
So final I did one myself, for quite cheap.
I like it so much that I wanted to share how I did it with you guys, so if one day somebody here wants to do something similar, it can serve as a base, or give him some ideas.
What you need :
a small universal smartphone holder (I've used this one)
at least one plastic buckle (I've gathered some from a broken backpack, or you can buy some)
some rubber band
a small right-angle plastic thing (see photos bellow)
a drill
a cutter knife
hot glue and it's pistol (or something with the same usage)
recommended : sand-paper
1) The support​Remove the remaining straps from the buckle if there are any.
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For the "right-angle plastic thing", I took a remaining accessory of one of my Swedish furniture :
Cut it with the cutter knife in order to the part to fit on the angle on the top of your controller (near where the wire is if it's a wired one).
Don't forget to cut a U shape for the controller's wire.
Drill four holes, two on the top of the piece, and two on the bottom, at each side of the hole for the wire.
Pass the rubber band through the holes and make a knot to have two loops, one a each side of the support.
Finally, glue the female part of the buckle on the back of the support, the opening pointing upward.
I've sanded a bit the plastic piece and the buckle where I planned to glue them, to be sure that the glue will work well.
2) The holder​This part is easy, simply glue the male part of the buckle on the holder, the "spiky" part pointing downward.
Again, I sanded the two pieces a bit.
When mounting the stuff on my XBox360 controller, it gives me this :
3) Perma-mount and size adaptation​Because my phone is a bit heavy, or the rubber band to elastic, the holder doesn't stay totally fixed when the phone is in place. I will probably need to double the rubber bands or something like this.
But anyway, since I didn't managed to get the XBox360 controller to work at 100% with the phone, I decided to use one of my Ouya controllers. It's bluetooth, and works already quite well. It has also a nice flat surface between the triggers on the back.
Instead of using the rubber-band based mount, I decided to directly glue a male plastic buckle on the back (I had four same buckles).
It gave me a perfectly stable removable holder !
The phone mount I've used was intended to hold phones in portrait orientation, and I couldn't fix my phone in landscape.
I've found a small rubber bouncing ball and worked it a bit with the cutter knife to fill the gab between the holder and the phone (Anything similar, like a school eraser, should do the job). Since it's rubber, it fits and grips the phone very nicely.
The best of all, I don't need to remove the protecting case to use it !
I hope that you enjoyed reading all this, and that my little tests gave you some ideas if you also want to make a cheap phone holder.
Leave a comment if you have any questions or remarks !
Best regards,
ReMix
nice idea.. :good:

[Review] Oneplus Original Flip Cover

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Oneplus ONE Original Flip Cover
First Class Bicast Leather and Smooth Velvet
The exterior consists of a shock absorbent plastic layered with resistant Bicast leather, while the interior is made of soft velvet for the backside of the One to have a comfortable place to rest on. The front side will flip up effortlessly, and will fall back carefully on your One with a discrete “tap”. The attention to detail is once again manifested through the OnePlus logo carved on the bottom-right side of the front.
Automatic Unlock and Other Features
Your One will automatically unlock* as soon as you flip open the front side, for a smoother and better user experience. The volume button will be reached as easily through the flip cover as without. The same goes for the lock button. As the backside has an opening for the camera and the flash, and the front side will leave the loudspeakers unblocked, you can take beautiful images and talk to your friends while not worrying about your One.
*Requires CyanogenMod 11 version XNPH22R or higher
Additional Information
Dimensions 176.3 × 88 × 22 mm
Weight 157g
The OnePlus flip cover is specifically designed for the One, so you can rest assured that your One will be perfectly shielded against everything that a phone can be subjected to – at least almost.
Source Oneplus.net​
I am quite satisfied with this flip cover. Very good workmanship, fit perfectly into the OPO and very stylish
It is available in various colors to suit every taste​
​
Nice review!
One question: does this flip cover affect two hand use in any way?
LucaFraga said:
Nice review!
One question: does this flip cover affect two hand use in any way?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No
I found the flip cover very uncomfortable to use, especially the corners. Shouldve used softer material.
Returned it.
Miz_Buzzer said:
I found the flip cover very uncomfortable to use, especially the corners. Shouldve used softer material.
Returned it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think if they used softer materials would degrade faster...
I really like the flip case for my OPO and it's the case I use every day.
My only complaint is that the magnet seems to be too strong and will sometimes turn off the screen when the cases is fully opened. I tried lining the inside of the back of the case with duct tape to add a tiny bit of a gap between the phone and the case and it seemed to help a little bit but it still happens.
scott47 said:
I really like the flip case for my OPO and it's the case I use every day.
My only complaint is that the magnet seems to be too strong and will sometimes turn off the screen when the cases is fully opened. I tried lining the inside of the back of the case with duct tape to add a tiny bit of a gap between the phone and the case and it seemed to help a little bit but it still happens.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It never happened to me
The screen only turn of when I fully close the case

Battery case disassembly (EB-TN930)

Out of curiosity, boredom, and a couple touches of stupidity, I picked up one of the official Samsung battery cases for the original Note 7 to mess around with. I knew going in that it wasn't fully compatible with the FE, but I figured for $7 I might as well take a look and see if there was anything I could do to make it work.
Unfortunately, due in combination to me lacking the proper tools and Samsung's undying love for using strong adhesive to seal together 92% of all products they make, I (probably) took a couple SMDs off the logic board while disassembling the thing. At least, that's my best guess, as it now isn't recognized by my FE at all and just blinks all 4 power indicator LEDs at me. But I figured I'd at least post some pics of the disassembly for you fine folk in case someone smarter (or dumber, who knows) can figure this thing out.
If you decide to go down the disassembly route, just remember that there is a battery inside. One of the same type that made the FE's predecessor go explodey. One that'll make your day substantially worse if you manage to puncture it. Just remember that before you take your screwdriver and go Edward Stabbyhands on everything.
Not sure if this is the right section to be posting in; my apologies if it's not.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Step 1) - Remove cover with FCC markings (hereon referred to as "FCC cover")
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This cover is held on solely by adhesive.
Grab something very small and sharp; in my case I used a small jeweler's screwdriver and a folding utility knife. Take the screwdriver and wedge it between the FCC cover and the outer plastic case. There's a hard plastic cover underneath the FCC cover, so don't be afraid of damaging anything underneath.
Using the screwdriver as a lever, pry the FCC cover up just enough to get the knife inside; from there, just cut through the adhesive holding the FCC cover to the hard plastic cover underneath. There's significantly more adhesive at the top of the case (near the camera cutout), so I'd recommend starting this procedure from the bottom of the case.
Step 2) - Undo screws
Unscrew the 9 screws seen below. Pretty self-explanatory.
Step 3) - Remove hard plastic cover underneath FCC cover
This cover is held on by a combination of adhesive (around the edges only) and plastic clips.
After unscrewing the screws, repeat step 1) for the hard plastic cover underneath the FCC cover. Since this cover is much more rigid than the FCC cover, you'll need to apply more strength than in step 1). What helped for me was basically chipping away at one edge of the cover until I made a gap large enough to insert my screwdriver into; from there I just pried the cover up enough to get one of my fingers under, after which I just ran my finger around to undo the clips.
Note that the guts of the case reside under this cover, so *be careful. Take a look at the pics at the bottom of this post for the layout of things inside before you start this step.*
I started prying up from the top right of the case; now that I know what's going on underneath I would've started anywhere along the bottom half of the case.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
The three main pieces, all together:
Just the guts:
Closeup of PCB:
That's it, go knock yourselves out. I'm a bit knackered right now so lemme know if something above is unclear or if you want me to try doing something else before throwing it away.
as this hasn't been changed since the note 7, any defuncting must be software related, not battery related. Interesting tho.

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